it also helps to get a flat dolly behind each tack and planish the tack that will open the gap up and stop the edges over lapping . Really enjoying the vids 👍
I just subscribed to your channel and the first thing I noticed was how clean and tidy your workshop is. I watch a lot of YT and most shops are filthy with leads and hoses and general crap everywhere. Your shop looks like a pleasure to work in and your tools are all neatly put away when you don’t need them. I look forward to seeing more of your work on the panel van as I had quite a few back in the day. Cheers 🍻
Love watching your videos. Just some tips for tig welding sheet metal. Tack the panel in every couple of inches like you are doing but don't worry about cooling it down but as it starts to close up your gap go back and Hammer and dolly your tacks and it will relax the steel and open the gap back up. Keep tacking and hammering until you have less than 1 inch between tacks Hammer and dolly again until the steel is relaxed and back to its original shape, then run a continual weld the whole way around. Yes it will shrink and pull as it cools then run around and Hammer and dolly but only over the welded section this will relax the metal and return it to its original shape you won't need to heat shrink only work where it has been welded. I hope this makes sense I can send you some links to some videos if you would like.
This is exactly how you do it.That was a great explanation of the process. The metal pulls together so hammering the weld stretches it back to it original position. If you can get behind it, always tig.
Even when it’s all done and painted you will look down the side at different temps of the day and want to bang your head against the wall 😂 as usual very nice work and honest when it doesn’t go to plan👍
Man, I love watching your contents. I can't wait to see this build . I'm just starting my sons xy ute.meen to do some contents of my build too but that I will have to look into how to do it. Keep.up the awesome work
It’s good to see it coming back together and yes I’m a lover of taking side windows out. I’ve seen far too many rust in windows on vans plus it gives it a way better look in the long run.
great timing on this video, currently attacking an XG pano. And attacking its rear window sections. This is a good insight of how to go about it, cheers. Next battle after it is front windscreen area.
@@AstillDesign yeah, I'm teaching myself as I go. I've only ever done custom interiors. But rust repair and metal shaping is a whole new beast. Loving it so far.
Cheers mate I got the 1mm tungsten for my tig I'm going to do another door latch repair panel soon last attempt with my new tig not good so reverted to mig with the usual warp I'll use the air gun in future Thanks for sharing your experience Blue
Another great video Howard, gotta love a windowless van.. When you say that should be good for 6 months after putting the epoxy on those areas, does it require stripping again after that period, or just a rub back and re application?
Just a suggestion, what about constantly cooling the panel from the other side as you grind, fans/portable air con etc… can cool the whole panel down before grinding then still use the air ect
If you were to take out the frame part around the window (the bit that is rolled into the metal around the window) and just have it as one smooth panel, would you lose much rigidity in the panel by not having the rolled part of it?
Hi there guys. New to your channel and I have many years in the trade looking forward to watching your skills. I watch a few other channels and its great to see tradesman showing the correct ways. I will check out your old videos and I hope you are not a filler expert like them all today. Nothing like watching our trade being done correct. There are to many dodgy car builders out there.
Can you explain why you went for a butt join, instead of running an air stepper/air flanger around it and having the overlap inside?? Also, is the factory join between the tub and top going to be left or welded up?? Thanks for the entertainment.
I was watching a video the other day and they were saying you shouldn't do sheet metal welding on a rotisserie but on wooden stands under the tyres because the body flex. Just curious as to what you think.
I was wondering if you could cool the panel weld from behind while doing the weld to arrest expansion of the panel. Or does the lack of initial heat hamper weld penetration? I had the idea that someone could hold a wet folded towel where the welding was being done or even close to the weld and then move to the weld site when the tack is done. Just wondering.
@astilldesign hi Howard I’m not sure about the XA-C model but the xy’s had a radius in those flat panels ie “not dead flat” and also had two braces on the inside per side, for the windowless version. I’m certain this model will be the same. If you leave it flat with one brace per side I think you may get that annoying tin caning noise when driving it. Love your work Jak
Windowless panel vans look great. But they are rare for a reason, They are a bitch in traffic as there are blind spots galore. I have done this but differently by just cutting out a panel for each window opening. Also never removed the roof skin. I brazed in the sheets and it was a nightmare. This could be really cool. A great opportunity to fit a Wagon roof skin and lower the roof. It would look amazing and as far as I can remember I have only ever seen it once before and that was a wagon converted to a panel van. A thought for some of the big gaps maybe if you have the room back it with a piece of copper held on with a decent magnet? The copper would draw the heat away pretty well.
our old van we could see out of so thats no biggy, will probaly put in a reverse camera. The copper works good for big holes and gaps over 2 mm. The tig doesn't like having a magnet near by though.
BOSS XC coming back for more?? You need some HOWARD time for this panno!! haha...Very interested to see how this turns out as a -non-elite build - its not far off being too good!!
@@AstillDesign I know, I did as well at the start but it's really good. Its not heating the steel, There's lots to like about panel bond. Talk to your 3M rep.
you guys really need to watch real coach builders do there stuff no air no 1mm wheel to open up gaps use a hammer and dolly on ya tack welds and that go's for people watching this lol
I have never expressed that I'm a coach builder in fact I dont have any trade certificate. Im just passing on what I do and I'm always happy to learn something new.
Checked your channel too watch a real coach builder in action, seems you have yet to upload your instructional videos. Any idea when you will have some content available?
welding up the windows so nobody will see the fat chicks in the back a , i have an xw and their have been many times i wish it didn't have windows either. looking forward to seeing you get it on the road i may be able to give you some numbers of some chicks that are more suitable for a window less pano to help get you started
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Amazing videos to watch Howard full of really useful information and in laymans terms especially for myself !
Glad you enjoyed it, more to come
always great to watch on a sundy nite.
Cheers mate
I’m not building a show car but I only build show cars 😂😂
Good one Howard 👍👍
Yeah right! Maybe elite show car was what I was after
Loved that quote .my self
These men are the best in trade love every video they do from what I’m seeing most of it is common sense
Most things in life are common sense. Unfortunately we don't seem to have a lot anymore.
Bloody love Panel Van Thursday’s 👌👌!!…
Cheers mate
it also helps to get a flat dolly behind each tack and planish the tack that will open the gap up and stop the edges over lapping .
Really enjoying the vids 👍
That's a great idea!
I just subscribed to your channel and the first thing I noticed was how clean and tidy your workshop is. I watch a lot of YT and most shops are filthy with leads and hoses and general crap everywhere. Your shop looks like a pleasure to work in and your tools are all neatly put away when you don’t need them. I look forward to seeing more of your work on the panel van as I had quite a few back in the day. Cheers 🍻
Thanks Dean, we do try and keep things tidy. The shop is due for a floor paint, just swing to get the van in epoxy before doing it.
Love watching your videos. Just some tips for tig welding sheet metal. Tack the panel in every couple of inches like you are doing but don't worry about cooling it down but as it starts to close up your gap go back and Hammer and dolly your tacks and it will relax the steel and open the gap back up. Keep tacking and hammering until you have less than 1 inch between tacks Hammer and dolly again until the steel is relaxed and back to its original shape, then run a continual weld the whole way around. Yes it will shrink and pull as it cools then run around and Hammer and dolly but only over the welded section this will relax the metal and return it to its original shape you won't need to heat shrink only work where it has been welded.
I hope this makes sense I can send you some links to some videos if you would like.
Thanks for your input, its appreciated cheers Howard
This is exactly how you do it.That was a great explanation of the process. The metal pulls together so hammering the weld stretches it back to it original position. If you can get behind it, always tig.
Good to catch up on the van....
Cheers mate
Looking good Howard.
Thanks
Panel van progress is always good, 😊Going well Howard, looking forward to more 😎🤩
Thanks 👍
Great job on those panels Howard and taking out the factory seems thumbs up 👍👍
cheers mate
Hi Howard, love your work. Never owned a panel van but loved the big three's panel vans from the 70's, good progress. Bill Mc
Glad you enjoyed it, was a great time to be in your 20's
The side infill panels came out great. Nice big surfaces for future murals possibly!🤣
I think so too! You never know
Always enjoy watching your show's
Glad to hear it
Even when it’s all done and painted you will look down the side at different temps of the day and want to bang your head against the wall 😂 as usual very nice work and honest when it doesn’t go to plan👍
Thanks mate, tying to keep it real.
Enjoying this build very much keep up the great work guys
Thanks, will do!
Great work Howard and Darren, glad to see you working on your own project again.
Many thanks!
So much information,, given out...❤
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Howard. GREAT SHOW
cheers mate, learning all the time
Another very informative episode Howard, thumbs up.
Cheers mate
Cheers Howard for another great informative episode as always. Regards John.
Glad you enjoyed it
Enjoying the build Howard. Cheers
Thanks mate
Looks good to Howard no good trace and one side old vehicles one panel was never the same to the other. That’s why it is custom fit.
Yeah probably, we were making it 10mm bigger to start with.
Great work mate 👍
Thanks 👍
looking excellent mate. Great video as usual.
Much appreciated
Man, I love watching your contents. I can't wait to see this build . I'm just starting my sons xy ute.meen to do some contents of my build too but that I will have to look into how to do it. Keep.up the awesome work
Good luck with it all
I'm in the middle of doing a zh Fairlane great tips thanks Howard
Good luck!
It’s good to see it coming back together and yes I’m a lover of taking side windows out. I’ve seen far too many rust in windows on vans plus it gives it a way better look in the long run.
Yeah I ordered windows on my new one in 77 then always wished I didn’t have them
@@AstillDesign did the same with my old HQ panelvan , luckily didn’t have to do it on my sandman as it didn’t have the windows.
great timing on this video, currently attacking an XG pano. And attacking its rear window sections. This is a good insight of how to go about it, cheers. Next battle after it is front windscreen area.
Good luck with the build
@@AstillDesign yeah, I'm teaching myself as I go. I've only ever done custom interiors. But rust repair and metal shaping is a whole new beast. Loving it so far.
Looks great mate 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I bet it feels great to be working on 1 of your own projects again
Never enough time though
Cheers mate I got the 1mm tungsten for my tig I'm going to do another door latch repair panel soon last attempt with my new tig not good so reverted to mig with the usual warp
I'll use the air gun in future
Thanks for sharing your experience
Blue
Have a read of some of the comments on this post it will help as well
Another great video Howard, gotta love a windowless van.. When you say that should be good for 6 months after putting the epoxy on those areas, does it require stripping again after that period, or just a rub back and re application?
I think it important to understand it’s not a finished product. It’s designed to go under paint. I will rub it then Reco at before doing filler work.
Hi Howard love the Build, Have you ever thought of putting on one of those 74 LTD P6 Front ends with the flips lights? I think that would look great!
Hi, I’ve seen them done a few times but not what I’m looking for.
Just a suggestion, what about constantly cooling the panel from the other side as you grind, fans/portable air con etc… can cool the whole panel down before grinding then still use the air ect
I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt. It just being aware to not over heat things
Great video Howard love them so informative. Just got a question are you grindinding the tip on the tig to a point just like for stainless thanks
Yes grind to a point along the length not across
Hey there Howard, what is the undercoat you use on your builds?
The green coloured primer is PPG epoxythane DP 616
Thank you.@@AstillDesign
If you were to take out the frame part around the window (the bit that is rolled into the metal around the window) and just have it as one smooth panel, would you lose much rigidity in the panel by not having the rolled part of it?
I would say yes, I like the pattern they look too flat without it. A bit like the gutters being removed. They just dont look quite right
Nice work enjoy
Thank you, I will
Hi there guys.
New to your channel and I have many years in the trade looking forward to watching your skills.
I watch a few other channels and its great to see tradesman showing the correct ways.
I will check out your old videos and I hope you are not a filler expert like them all today.
Nothing like watching our trade being done correct.
There are to many dodgy car builders out there.
Hope we live up to your expectations 😀
Can you explain why you went for a butt join, instead of running an air stepper/air flanger around it and having the overlap inside??
Also, is the factory join between the tub and top going to be left or welded up??
Thanks for the entertainment.
If you step it and it moves you will struggle to get it straight with the overlap. No way of putting a block behind.
Still undecided about the join
@@AstillDesign Thanks for the knowledge, I assumed there was a good reason.
I'll have to up my TIG game, before I tackle the latest project.
Cheers.
I was watching a video the other day and they were saying you shouldn't do sheet metal welding on a rotisserie but on wooden stands under the tyres because the body flex. Just curious as to what you think.
That’s a big debate that I’m not about to start. Clearly I don’t bother.
I was wondering if you could cool the panel weld from behind while doing the weld to arrest expansion of the panel. Or does the lack of initial heat hamper weld penetration? I had the idea that someone could hold a wet folded towel where the welding was being done or even close to the weld and then move to the weld site when the tack is done. Just wondering.
Haven’t seen it done that way, quenching with water will definitely swrink and pull at the weld.
Thanks H.@@AstillDesign
we used to use a damp rag
Your a magic man sir😎🫡
cheers mate
@astilldesign hi Howard
I’m not sure about the XA-C model but the xy’s had a radius in those flat panels ie “not dead flat”
and also had two braces on the inside per side, for the windowless version.
I’m certain this model will be the same.
If you leave it flat with one brace per side I think you may get that annoying tin caning noise when driving it.
Love your work
Jak
Thanks Jak, I might make a few more of the factory braces and add them in.
Windowless panel vans look great. But they are rare for a reason, They are a bitch in traffic as there are blind spots galore.
I have done this but differently by just cutting out a panel for each window opening. Also never removed the roof skin. I brazed in the sheets and it was a nightmare.
This could be really cool. A great opportunity to fit a Wagon roof skin and lower the roof. It would look amazing and as far as I can remember I have only ever seen it once before and that was a wagon converted to a panel van.
A thought for some of the big gaps maybe if you have the room back it with a piece of copper held on with a decent magnet? The copper would draw the heat away pretty well.
our old van we could see out of so thats no biggy, will probaly put in a reverse camera. The copper works good for big holes and gaps over 2 mm. The tig doesn't like having a magnet near by though.
A wagon roof on it would be hella-cool!
I agree but dont wont it to turn into a 5 year build
BOSS XC coming back for more?? You need some HOWARD time for this panno!! haha...Very interested to see how this turns out as a -non-elite build - its not far off being too good!!
Yeah trying not to do too much
Darren where is your helmut because while your cooling 1 weld astill could be tacking the next
more speed less hast!!
You'd be better off using panel bond on those seams you want to smooth out. It's equal to if not stronger than weld and alot easier...
I think I would struggle with that concept
@@AstillDesign I know, I did as well at the start but it's really good. Its not heating the steel, There's lots to like about panel bond. Talk to your 3M rep.
👍🏻👏🍺
Thanks again Tim
you guys really need to watch real coach builders do there stuff no air no 1mm wheel to open up gaps use a hammer and dolly on ya tack welds and that go's for people watching this lol
I have never expressed that I'm a coach builder in fact I dont have any trade certificate. Im just passing on what I do and I'm always happy to learn something new.
Too right H! I am self-taught and learning heaps from you.@@AstillDesign
Checked your channel too watch a real coach builder in action, seems you have yet to upload your instructional videos. Any idea when you will have some content available?
welding up the windows so nobody will see the fat chicks in the back a , i have an xw and their have been many times i wish it didn't have windows either. looking forward to seeing you get it on the road i may be able to give you some numbers of some chicks that are more suitable for a window less pano to help get you started
I remember them stickers "No FAT chicks"