Even with on road driving, the rear can get away from you on some bumps. Especially if it's wet. However I just put a Decked system on it and dropped my recovery gear in there. You're right, the extra weight helps a lot.
Rick Boyett yeah. The KO2s are really more to blame for the slippery performance on wet. I had no grip in the wet with my KO2s on my 17 and seeing the same on the 2020. Can’t wait to get some proper tires under this thing like the Toyo RTs.
Dude, spot on! I've had my 2019 for 5 months now and you hit the nail on the head. Amazing performing shocks, just a little skittish over the small chop. I found that taking the rear tires down to 25psi eased it a lot. Also, I cant speak to needing bump-stops. I've only ever jumped about 14-16" high and its SO comfortable landing. Soaks it right up. That road you you were on in Lucerne, I've actually taken at 60-70mph and it has 4-5 good jumps at that speed. Thanks for your videos man.
Alexander Brieby thanks man, but careful with the lower PSI. I used to run 25 on the truck. But after bending 3 forged wheels I run 30-32 now. Talked to a few race teams and they don’t run anything lower than 32 for fear or damaging a wheel. As for bumps stops, it does not take much for the back end to bottom out. I would highly recommend bumps stops of some sort. On my 17 I ran without them for too lung and mushroomed the frame at the stock bumps. They offer no protection at all.
Alexander Brieby there are only 2 I recommend. RPG or Icon. RPGs kit is simple strong and cost effective. Icon kit is very week designed because there is some additional bracing that no other kit has but it’s most expensive and it’s’more complicated. you have to make sure every bolt uses lock tight. And there are a ton of bolts on that kit. If you go with RPG, call them up and ask for Casey and tell them keep it dirty sent you and they will hook you up.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad the problem with the RPG bump stops is they don't stop the leaf spring slap ... poorly designed. The Icon kit has the right idea, there just needs to be a flat plate above the bolt ends that the bump stop can hit instead of the stop of the bolts ... the RPG kit is useless!
Antonio Aguilar the factory series are a whole other animal. More oil, less fade, and adjustable. Properly tuned they are far superior that the live valves.
2019 with the same impressions here. Empty and not aired down (say 38 psi), not good at all. It snaked around and had axle wrap in the chop and under acceleration. Down to 32 psi or lower, much, much better even when empty. Running with a minimum of 200lbs with tonneau, rack, a bit of gear and Aux battery at 28 psi - amazing, if not a bit soft for the bigger hits. Then with full loadout - all recovery gear, water, camping gear - I certainly drive slower, and it rides really nice, but just too much sag. Need some deavers, icons or similar for running that 400-500lbs at speed/distance offroad. On road, don't even know it's there.
Yeah. We heard plenty of stories on them. We got lucky and in the 2 years we had this truck we beat it up and did not have problems with the shocks. The new shocks with the dual Valves coming out next year though look super interesting
Best Raptor channel baby!! Where are you at for this video? I need to hit this place up!! I want to start modding my raptor. Which number stops do you recommend and what shop do you recommend? I actually live in the same area as you. Thanks!!!!!
Joe Momma I have plenty of videos on recommendation man so check out the channel. As for where we tested these, we were in the Cal City area. If you ever want to join, check out my personal Instagram feed
Have you ever taken a look at the Roadmaster Active suspension? it almost looks perfect to address your complaints and I've been thinking of trying it out. Proper installation is crucial as I saw a guy who popped his off because he jacked up his rear diff instead of using the hitch to stretch the springs.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad They are supposed to help the overall handling. There is certainly a towing purpose but the side benefits could be useful. You sort of get stiffer springs without suffering the on road drawback. You sort of get a rear anti sway bar without having to install one and it's supposed to help with the jitteriness overall in the light rear end. I know it seems like it's too good to be true where you have a stiffer rear end and a better on road experience but some people swear by them and the concept seems sound.
Can you tell us what drive mode you are in? THe drive mode sets the shocks differently and knowing how you are configuring the truck would help. Thank you and good job on the vids!!
I’ve tried this in sport, and Baja. Both 2wd and 4wd. Sport mode is much stiffer and don’t feel as good off-road time me. Baja feels smoother to me. The Live Valve trucks don’t really have a good 2wd offroad mode anymore. On the 17-18s, you could use sport mode and be fine. With the Live Valve the only offroad mode that allows 2wd is Baja.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Sport mode is for on-road. Turn on Baja mode and I believe you can turn off 4 wheel high putting it in 2wd mode. Normal, Sport, Slippery, Tow/Haul modes are for on-road and modes Snow/Sand, Baja, and Rock Crawl are for offroad.
sixshooter4570 yeah I know man, like I said I tried both modes in 2wd and 4wd. Baja is great it you want to be super aggressive. But sometimes it’s too aggressive and hold the gears too long. The other offroad modes don’t let you get out of 4wd, so the 19s and 20s don’t have a good all around offroad mode like the 17s-18s did by using sport mode with the traction control off.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Thank you for your reply. With your experience I was curious. Sounds like you have your thumb on it. I agree that Baja is aggressive but though you might enjoy that. I've used it a few times and find it extremely fun and your right that it holds gears for a long time. I've never been sure how useful that is but it certainly is in the power ALL THE TIME...LOL
Pat Baja mode requires aggressive driving. 65 mph plus on high speed trails. Holding the gear is very beneficial to keep control of the truck around turns. Keeping the car under load is actually a race driving thing and offroad its great for taking sweeping turn fast without touching the brakes. Touching the brakes on a turn could end in disaster offroad. Problem comes when your not on a fast trail and can only get up into the 40s. Then Baja mode sucks because it holds the gears too long.
Hey I have a few questions if you don’t mind! I currently have a 16 platinum with 20’ wheels and 275/65 BFG KO2 tires which is my first ever truck and the comfort is like shit. 99% of my driving is around a city with horrendous roads and bums and potholes all over the place. I’m thinking of importing a 20 raptor supercab and I was wondering is it comfortable? Does the back end go all over place if you hit a bum or a pothole with a little speed? Do you feel bumps and potholes on the front end? if you can tell me everything you can about the ride and how comfortable are the FOX live valve shocks for daily use. Thank you
The 20 raptor with live valves in my opinion rides rough. It can cope with all the bump and potholes, but Ford programming and valving left the shocks stiffer. A 17-18 stock raptor runs much smoother. If you have to have live valve, get a Gen3 (2021 or newer) raptor OR plan on upgrading a stock 19-20 Raptor with SDIs Eclick system to speed up the shocks and make the ride smoother
What shocks would you switch to from the factory live valve? How will that work? Isn’t the drive mode buttons somehow connected to the live valve shock sensors? I need to take me ‘19 raptor into the dealer as I’ve been having an issue that comes and goes where a pop up comes on screen saying “drive control malfunction. Service required”. Seems like there are quite a few people with this issue and appears to be an issue with the shocks. I can’t change the drive mode with this issue or steering controls.
Phil O they make bypass modules that disable the Live Valve sensors so you can run aftermarket shocks. As for the error, if one sensor is bad, whole systems can cut out. If you ever cut a wheel speed sensor you can loose steering all together. Have a video all about it on the channel.
Keep It Dirty Off-Road yeah, I’m not losing steering or having steering issues but I can’t change, say, from normal drive mode to sport mode. Thus, I can’t change from normal steering to comfort or sport. It’s pretty irritating.
Phil O yeah that’s sucks. One of the main reason I don’t plan on keeping the love valve shocks. You may have a bad sensor, damaged line, or something simple that probably came loose.
you can, but they are going to be very. VERY stiff. The whole purpose of the shocks is to take advantage of the sensors to stiffen and soften the ride based on the terrain. without them being connected you only get a very small portion of the capability of the shocks.
Put some Eibach springs on and really feel planted and level. Only $225. Made in Corona. No nose dive while breaking. More clearance. Just an idea. I dig mine. Hated the rake.
R on my 17 I had the Geisers and loved them. Great progressive spring. For this truck I may do the eibachs just to give them a fair review. But the linear spring rate has me worried about how they will handle offroad .
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Are you a fordraptorforum reader? Lots of great info on the two springs. After much research and input, seems most guys prefer the Eibachs on the Gen2. I was considering Geiser but went the other way. Wow, what a difference. Good luck. Thanks for the vids.
R not on the forum man. Was a while back but not anymore. Too much bad info in there from people that almost never offroad their trucks. Will know soon enough how the eibachs perform myself, but having a linear spring rate to me is a huge drawback and I expect an extremely stiff ride. Based on the specs the eibachs were more built for street driving, rather than offroad.
I know you believe that airing down isn't something that you should have to do regardless there are a lot of people that do air down to 38 in front and 34 in rear and it seems to help tremendously with the rear skipping. I'm looking into HD Deaver's and either Geisers or Eibachs springs up front. I've already purchased the KHC torque arms but will install them after replacing the rear springs. I know that Eibachs, linear spring, raises the front about 1 3/4" and Geisers, progressive spring, raises the front about 2 1/2" I feel as though the upper control arms would definitely have to be replaced if I went with Geiser springs but then I might have to purchase different wheels due to backspaceing issues with new upper control arms and the stock wheels. I'm trying to figure out the best way to go because I really can't afford to do it twice. Any insight would be appreciated. Nice video.
sixshooter4570 Overtime having the rear tires aired down will cause early and uneven wear. Doing it for off-road is fine. But always keeping the back end air down increases maintenance costs in the form of tires. I ran geisers for over 30k miles with the stock control arms and I had no issues. If you do change the upper control arms, rubbing will be an issue. There is less than 1/2 in clearance up front and I would not recommend it without at least 18 to 0 offset. But then that gets you into more problems with rubbing in the fenders. I loved the geisers but I need a temp solution and may try the eibachs this time. But i can’t find reliably details on if they lift 1.75 or 2.5 over stock.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad It's 1.75" from all the various posts that I've read on FRF but make sure you get the latest iteration of Eibachs springs for your vehicle as they've been upgraded.
Back of these trucks are light, without a load , 30 psi is money on the rears. Look at the foot print and you'll know. At 35 and above you're only using the center of the tire.
Hey, I’ve got an off topic question for ya. Have you encountered any positives or negatives comparing the super cab to the crew cab, besides interior space?
Kanon 08 not really. They are about the same. The super cab can be a little more nimble because they weight slightly less, but they have a smaller tank so they have about 100 miles less range.
Pat I was afraid of that. I’m really on the fence here, the lady wants the crew cab, but I feel like the super cab looks the best and is a more manageable size driving around LA. But now the rattle too. 🤦🏼♂️ I’ll figure it out. Thanks for the info.
My 2020 Raptors does the same, the rear axle slides slightly to the sides on small bumps. Is there a permanent fix besides putting some weight on the bed?
Pedro Cabrera it’s really all about balance and it’s weight and maybe springs. I’m putting my Deavers on this week and will do an update soon. But I will be carrying a lot of weight with the new rack.
I swapped out the stock leaf springs for Deaver +3 and I run an empty bed. New springs made the rear feel smoother and track a lot better on small bumps. I also added 1” longer shackles so the rear end doesn’t sit sky high compared to front. I was told that longer shackles also provide a little better suspension droop.
Hason Lavajunk that’s good to hear that springs help. The drop shackles basically give you more up travel by allowing the springs to sit higher in the truck without raising the truck. Just make sure you have bump stops. If the leaf springs go past straight, they wear out quicker and have to be re- arched. I ran without bump stops for too long and I paid for it with my leaf springs.
TheKimcheez I already have a set of the regular Factory series sitting in my garage. The Live Valve are great but overtime will be a liability for me with the amount of off-roading I do.
Hmm, have to disagree here. Stock 2017 SCAB (no bumps, nothing), and while the back end steps out a bit, it is pretty controllable. The biggest problem is power distribution, which is why you run in 4wd anyway. I rarely have an issue with rear suspension - it is the soft, high rebound fronts that cause a really annoying pogo effect that I hate. I get the shocks have to balance between on and offroad - two different extremes - but that's my chief complaint. A lot of people argue bump stops are necessary but there is a bump zone in the shocks, and I've landed some rough jumps with no damage at all - no aftermarket bumps. I thought the live valves would be game changing but from my ride alongs, they didn't seem to make a big improvement. They definitely helped, but they didn't change the performance envelope like I thought they would.
🤦♂️🤦♂️ you lost me at you don’t need bump stops. I’ve had a 17 and 20 raptor. With and without live valves. Lots of off-roading and the “bump zone” combined with the stock bumps are a joke. They don’t do anything to protect the truck. After a year of trails the frame was mushroomed on my 17 at the bump stop. The live valves did fair better but still bottomed out easy. I personally don’t like the Live Valve shocks. Too slow and can’t handle small chop. On the street the ride it way too harsh compared to the traditional shocks on the 17. And the live valves tend to overheat. Mine got so hot they melted the rubber at the top of the shock bucket onto the springs after a year of abuse.
Coincidentally, the only two trucks I saw that had bending issues both had bumps, and in Brian's case the bad bump geometry is what caused the problem. I've ridden in the full gamut of trucks. Made several suspension comparison videos, actually - want to revisit them in the near future, but the point is most people use bumps as an added 'extra shock' rather than a safety net as intended. In other words, if you find yourself in need of bumps, you are over driving the truck. I've seen a lot of guys claim you have to have them. Gen 1, maybe. Talked to guys like Foutz and Williams, who both work closely with Ford but also own aftermarket shops. They don't think so - and my testing agrees.
@@T4nkcommander not sure I agree with your logic there. The Gen1 definitely needs it as it also serves as a frame reinforcement. The Gen1 were known to have a weak frame and folded up. The bump stops designed by shops like SVC, RPG, etc... all were extra wide for frame reinforcement. Now anyone using it as an extra shock, your right. But properly designed and tuned, the bump stop should just smooth out that last little bit before you bottom out. Tuned properly, they should prevent full bottom by about 1/4 in to prevent damage to the frame. That all being said, there are bad bump stops designs out there. But Bump stops are a way to smooth out the full suspension cycle of the truck and reduce damage. The foam bumps in the shocks (yes they are foam the compresses) are not protecting anything at speed.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad FYI, only the 2010-2011 models had the standard, weak F150 frame. 2012-2014 got beefed up frames, and the Gen 2 even more so. The Gen 2 shocks also have a 'bump zone' that is designed to function in that manner close to end of travel. I'm not saying it is as good as an actual replacement bump stop by any means, but it was specifically added to address this. The rubber bump stop is a last resort that should indicate to the driver that they hit their performance limit. Fox made a video demonstrating this that's on youtube and a few other places.
The Pako Factor 🤣🤣 There is an upside to the 17-18. If you were planning suspension upgrades, it’s a whole lot easier and less hassle. On the 19-20 we have to disable the live valve system to upgrade
19 raptor for about 4 months now and i have a question. when staring it and putting the truck in gear as soon as it move the shifter out of park i get a weird feeling like the shocks are resetting it self or adjusting is this what im feeling?
Lol, yeah caught me off guard too. Everytime I put the truck in drive, the back end would move down a bit. That’s because when the live valve it off, it’s fully closed. So what ever position the truck was in basically gets locked in. When you put the truck in drive, it finally opens the valve again and you get that slight drop. Weird AF until you realize what’s going on.
Soooo I’m looking to upgrade my front shocks. This guy selling his Fox Racing Shox 3.0 Factory Race Series Live Valve Internal Bypass QS3 Adjustable Coilover Shocks 883-06-153. Should I upgrade to that? Or should I stay oem live valve? Are there any differences? I have a 2019 raptor
There is a difference in that the FRS live valves run more oil, are adjustable and have an adjustable height collar. But you need to look at what your goal is with the truck. Daily driver? Dedicated off-roader? Both? And do you plan to upgrade further later to mid travel?
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad probably gonna be on road most the time and off road occasionally. The guy selling the shock for $1800. Just wanna see if its worth the upgrades 😅
For daily driving you won’t see much difference between your stock shocks and the FRS shocks. Only really benefit for daily driving is you can adjust the front height without getting a stiff ride. Personally, I would invest in an Eclick system rather than FRS shocks. That will cost about the same and wake up your live valves offroad and improve onroad manners.
It's the valving not the springs.....you want lightest springs to support vehicle and let shocks do the dampening......put better set of shocks on there and will be fine.....OEM even raptors are not optimum for offroad Older generation with 2.5 had shock piston same size as bilstein 5100.....sure it's same in newer version Rebound is usually the issue plus size of piston in shock and volume Talk to fox or king and sure they have setup for that truck....POSSIBLY even Deaver fir leaf spring kit
Ross Peterson not sure what good they would do. Live valve are about being able to use suspension travel and stiffening up when they are at full droop. In a lifted truck 1. There is no Live Valve sensors or computers telling them to stiffen or loosen. 2. They won’t use much of the travel because a lifted truck is too rigid and can’t use the full travel of the shocks
Love your channel man! Quality information without any bullshit.
reevlak 👍👍🙏🙏 thanks man
Even with on road driving, the rear can get away from you on some bumps. Especially if it's wet. However I just put a Decked system on it and dropped my recovery gear in there. You're right, the extra weight helps a lot.
Rick Boyett yeah. The KO2s are really more to blame for the slippery performance on wet. I had no grip in the wet with my KO2s on my 17 and seeing the same on the 2020. Can’t wait to get some proper tires under this thing like the Toyo RTs.
Your boys are funny....
Cant wait to see more of the build of the raptor
Love your guy’s content keep it up!
Thanks man.
Dude, spot on! I've had my 2019 for 5 months now and you hit the nail on the head.
Amazing performing shocks, just a little skittish over the small chop.
I found that taking the rear tires down to 25psi eased it a lot.
Also, I cant speak to needing bump-stops. I've only ever jumped about 14-16" high and its SO comfortable landing. Soaks it right up.
That road you you were on in Lucerne, I've actually taken at 60-70mph and it has 4-5 good jumps at that speed.
Thanks for your videos man.
Alexander Brieby thanks man, but careful with the lower PSI. I used to run 25 on the truck. But after bending 3 forged wheels I run 30-32 now. Talked to a few race teams and they don’t run anything lower than 32 for fear or damaging a wheel.
As for bumps stops, it does not take much for the back end to bottom out. I would highly recommend bumps stops of some sort. On my 17 I ran without them for too lung and mushroomed the frame at the stock bumps. They offer no protection at all.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad I will heed your warnings, much appreciated.
Do you have a suggestion for bump stops?
Alexander Brieby there are only 2 I recommend. RPG or Icon. RPGs kit is simple strong and cost effective. Icon kit is very week designed because there is some additional bracing that no other kit has but it’s most expensive and it’s’more complicated. you have to make sure every bolt uses lock tight. And there are a ton of bolts on that kit.
If you go with RPG, call them up and ask for Casey and tell them keep it dirty sent you and they will hook you up.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad the problem with the RPG bump stops is they don't stop the leaf spring slap ... poorly designed. The Icon kit has the right idea, there just needs to be a flat plate above the bolt ends that the bump stop can hit instead of the stop of the bolts ... the RPG kit is useless!
@@CH-RC not sure I understand the plate position your talking about. Are you talking about a plate above the leaf pack?
very interesting... i have a 2018 with the 3" fox adjustable and a 2020 with the live valving... i love the 2018 with the 3"
Antonio Aguilar the factory series are a whole other animal. More oil, less fade, and adjustable. Properly tuned they are far superior that the live valves.
2019 with the same impressions here. Empty and not aired down (say 38 psi), not good at all. It snaked around and had axle wrap in the chop and under acceleration. Down to 32 psi or lower, much, much better even when empty. Running with a minimum of 200lbs with tonneau, rack, a bit of gear and Aux battery at 28 psi - amazing, if not a bit soft for the bigger hits. Then with full loadout - all recovery gear, water, camping gear - I certainly drive slower, and it rides really nice, but just too much sag. Need some deavers, icons or similar for running that 400-500lbs at speed/distance offroad. On road, don't even know it's there.
Nice review
Neil Castelli thanks man
Going camping this weekend in Anza borrego. Was gonna unload our gear before hitting the trail but I guess I’ll leave it in the bed .
Pedro Rodriguez yeah, leave some in to balance it out a bit. But Anza also does not have many high speed options specially on a busy weekend.
I work for fox factory and I personally work for the raptor line where I assemble these shox and I agree those sensors are very delicate.
Yeah. We heard plenty of stories on them. We got lucky and in the 2 years we had this truck we beat it up and did not have problems with the shocks. The new shocks with the dual
Valves coming out next year though look super interesting
Best Raptor channel baby!! Where are you at for this video? I need to hit this place up!! I want to start modding my raptor. Which number stops do you recommend and what shop do you recommend? I actually live in the same area as you. Thanks!!!!!
Joe Momma I have plenty of videos on recommendation man so check out the channel. As for where we tested these, we were in the Cal City area. If you ever want to join, check out my personal Instagram feed
That Gen 1 tho!!!
I'm kinda jealous. All my local trails are covered in a lot of snow... I need to move south.
jerlowthom we get kind of spoiled down here. California has so many options and so many are a short drive away like Baja, AZ, Utah. Nevada.
Have you ever taken a look at the Roadmaster Active suspension? it almost looks perfect to address your complaints and I've been thinking of trying it out. Proper installation is crucial as I saw a guy who popped his off because he jacked up his rear diff instead of using the hitch to stretch the springs.
Pat just did a quick search and not sure how they would hold up offroad. Seems more of a towing upgrade than offroad.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad They are supposed to help the overall handling. There is certainly a towing purpose but the side benefits could be useful. You sort of get stiffer springs without suffering the on road drawback. You sort of get a rear anti sway bar without having to install one and it's supposed to help with the jitteriness overall in the light rear end. I know it seems like it's too good to be true where you have a stiffer rear end and a better on road experience but some people swear by them and the concept seems sound.
Can you tell us what drive mode you are in? THe drive mode sets the shocks differently and knowing how you are configuring the truck would help. Thank you and good job on the vids!!
I’ve tried this in sport, and Baja. Both 2wd and 4wd. Sport mode is much stiffer and don’t feel as good off-road time me. Baja feels smoother to me. The Live Valve trucks don’t really have a good 2wd offroad mode anymore. On the 17-18s, you could use sport mode and be fine. With the Live Valve the only offroad mode that allows 2wd is Baja.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad
Sport mode is for on-road. Turn on Baja mode and I believe you can turn off 4 wheel high putting it in 2wd mode.
Normal, Sport, Slippery, Tow/Haul modes are for on-road and modes Snow/Sand, Baja, and Rock Crawl are for offroad.
sixshooter4570 yeah I know man, like I said I tried both modes in 2wd and 4wd. Baja is great it you want to be super aggressive. But sometimes it’s too aggressive and hold the gears too long.
The other offroad modes don’t let you get out of 4wd, so the 19s and 20s don’t have a good all around offroad mode like the 17s-18s did by using sport mode with the traction control off.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Thank you for your reply. With your experience I was curious. Sounds like you have your thumb on it. I agree that Baja is aggressive but though you might enjoy that. I've used it a few times and find it extremely fun and your right that it holds gears for a long time. I've never been sure how useful that is but it certainly is in the power ALL THE TIME...LOL
Pat Baja mode requires aggressive driving. 65 mph plus on high speed trails. Holding the gear is very beneficial to keep control of the truck around turns. Keeping the car under load is actually a race driving thing and offroad its great for taking sweeping turn fast without touching the brakes. Touching the brakes on a turn could end in disaster offroad.
Problem comes when your not on a fast trail and can only get up into the 40s. Then Baja mode sucks because it holds the gears too long.
Hey I have a few questions if you don’t mind!
I currently have a 16 platinum with 20’ wheels and 275/65 BFG KO2 tires which is my first ever truck and the comfort is like shit.
99% of my driving is around a city with horrendous roads and bums and potholes all over the place.
I’m thinking of importing a 20 raptor supercab and I was wondering is it comfortable?
Does the back end go all over place if you hit a bum or a pothole with a little speed?
Do you feel bumps and potholes on the front end?
if you can tell me everything you can about the ride and how comfortable are the FOX live valve shocks for daily use.
Thank you
The 20 raptor with live valves in my opinion rides rough. It can cope with all the bump and potholes, but Ford programming and valving left the shocks stiffer.
A 17-18 stock raptor runs much smoother.
If you have to have live valve, get a Gen3 (2021 or newer) raptor OR plan on upgrading a stock 19-20 Raptor with SDIs Eclick system to speed up the shocks and make the ride smoother
What shocks would you switch to from the factory live valve? How will that work? Isn’t the drive mode buttons somehow connected to the live valve shock sensors? I need to take me ‘19 raptor into the dealer as I’ve been having an issue that comes and goes where a pop up comes on screen saying “drive control malfunction. Service required”. Seems like there are quite a few people with this issue and appears to be an issue with the shocks. I can’t change the drive mode with this issue or steering controls.
Phil O they make bypass modules that disable the Live Valve sensors so you can run aftermarket shocks.
As for the error, if one sensor is bad, whole systems can cut out. If you ever cut a wheel speed sensor you can loose steering all together. Have a video all about it on the channel.
Keep It Dirty Off-Road yeah, I’m not losing steering or having steering issues but I can’t change, say, from normal drive mode to sport mode. Thus, I can’t change from normal steering to comfort or sport. It’s pretty irritating.
Phil O yeah that’s sucks. One of the main reason I don’t plan on keeping the love valve shocks. You may have a bad sensor, damaged line, or something simple that probably came loose.
Hi can u run them with out plugging them in I just bought a rear set for 350 and the dont have the wires thanks
you can, but they are going to be very. VERY stiff. The whole purpose of the shocks is to take advantage of the sensors to stiffen and soften the ride based on the terrain. without them being connected you only get a very small portion of the capability of the shocks.
Put some Eibach springs on and really feel planted and level. Only $225. Made in Corona. No nose dive while breaking. More clearance. Just an idea. I dig mine. Hated the rake.
R on my 17 I had the Geisers and loved them. Great progressive spring.
For this truck I may do the eibachs just to give them a fair review. But the linear spring rate has me worried about how they will handle offroad .
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Are you a fordraptorforum reader? Lots of great info on the two springs. After much research and input, seems most guys prefer the Eibachs on the Gen2. I was considering Geiser but went the other way. Wow, what a difference. Good luck. Thanks for the vids.
R not on the forum man. Was a while back but not anymore. Too much bad info in there from people that almost never offroad their trucks.
Will know soon enough how the eibachs perform myself, but having a linear spring rate to me is a huge drawback and I expect an extremely stiff ride. Based on the specs the eibachs were more built for street driving, rather than offroad.
I know you believe that airing down isn't something that you should have to do regardless there are a lot of people that do air down to 38 in front and 34 in rear and it seems to help tremendously with the rear skipping.
I'm looking into HD Deaver's and either Geisers or Eibachs springs up front.
I've already purchased the KHC torque arms but will install them after replacing the rear springs.
I know that Eibachs, linear spring, raises the front about 1 3/4" and Geisers, progressive spring, raises the front about 2 1/2"
I feel as though the upper control arms would definitely have to be replaced if I went with Geiser springs but then I might have to purchase different wheels due to backspaceing issues with new upper control arms and the stock wheels.
I'm trying to figure out the best way to go because I really can't afford to do it twice.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Nice video.
I'm running 33 front and 30 rear on my 35's huge difference. But I also have Icon leafs and the factory race live valves.
sixshooter4570 Overtime having the rear tires aired down will cause early and uneven wear. Doing it for off-road is fine. But always keeping the back end air down increases maintenance costs in the form of tires.
I ran geisers for over 30k miles with the stock control arms and I had no issues. If you do change the upper control arms, rubbing will be an issue. There is less than 1/2 in clearance up front and I would not recommend it without at least 18 to 0 offset. But then that gets you into more problems with rubbing in the fenders.
I loved the geisers but I need a temp solution and may try the eibachs this time. But i can’t find reliably details on if they lift 1.75 or 2.5 over stock.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad
It's 1.75" from all the various posts that I've read on FRF but make sure you get the latest iteration of Eibachs springs for your vehicle as they've been upgraded.
Back of these trucks are light, without a load , 30 psi is money on the rears. Look at the foot print and you'll know. At 35 and above you're only using the center of the tire.
sixshooter4570 I hear they upgraded to progressive a while back, but everything I find shows they are still linear. What upgrade did they do?
Hey, I’ve got an off topic question for ya. Have you encountered any positives or negatives comparing the super cab to the crew cab, besides interior space?
Kanon 08 not really. They are about the same. The super cab can be a little more nimble because they weight slightly less, but they have a smaller tank so they have about 100 miles less range.
Keep It Dirty Off-Road 👍🏼 Thanks.
I would also add that the super cab is missing the B pillar and therefore isn't as rigid. The doors rattle a little on washboarded roads.
@@pat9125 good to know
Pat I was afraid of that. I’m really on the fence here, the lady wants the crew cab, but I feel like the super cab looks the best and is a more manageable size driving around LA. But now the rattle too. 🤦🏼♂️ I’ll figure it out. Thanks for the info.
My 2020 Raptors does the same, the rear axle slides slightly to the sides on small bumps. Is there a permanent fix besides putting some weight on the bed?
Pedro Cabrera it’s really all about balance and it’s weight and maybe springs. I’m putting my Deavers on this week and will do an update soon. But I will be carrying a lot of weight with the new rack.
I swapped out the stock leaf springs for Deaver +3 and I run an empty bed. New springs made the rear feel smoother and track a lot better on small bumps. I also added 1” longer shackles so the rear end doesn’t sit sky high compared to front. I was told that longer shackles also provide a little better suspension droop.
Hason Lavajunk that’s good to hear that springs help. The drop shackles basically give you more up travel by allowing the springs to sit higher in the truck without raising the truck. Just make sure you have bump stops. If the leaf springs go past straight, they wear out quicker and have to be re- arched. I ran without bump stops for too long and I paid for it with my leaf springs.
Upgrade to fox 3.0 live valve upfront?🙃
TheKimcheez I already have a set of the regular Factory series sitting in my garage. The Live Valve are great but overtime will be a liability for me with the amount of off-roading I do.
Hmm, have to disagree here. Stock 2017 SCAB (no bumps, nothing), and while the back end steps out a bit, it is pretty controllable. The biggest problem is power distribution, which is why you run in 4wd anyway.
I rarely have an issue with rear suspension - it is the soft, high rebound fronts that cause a really annoying pogo effect that I hate. I get the shocks have to balance between on and offroad - two different extremes - but that's my chief complaint.
A lot of people argue bump stops are necessary but there is a bump zone in the shocks, and I've landed some rough jumps with no damage at all - no aftermarket bumps.
I thought the live valves would be game changing but from my ride alongs, they didn't seem to make a big improvement. They definitely helped, but they didn't change the performance envelope like I thought they would.
🤦♂️🤦♂️ you lost me at you don’t need bump stops. I’ve had a 17 and 20 raptor. With and without live valves. Lots of off-roading and the “bump zone” combined with the stock bumps are a joke. They don’t do anything to protect the truck. After a year of trails the frame was mushroomed on my 17 at the bump stop. The live valves did fair better but still bottomed out easy. I personally don’t like the Live Valve shocks. Too slow and can’t handle small chop. On the street the ride it way too harsh compared to the traditional shocks on the 17. And the live valves tend to overheat. Mine got so hot they melted the rubber at the top of the shock bucket onto the springs after a year of abuse.
Coincidentally, the only two trucks I saw that had bending issues both had bumps, and in Brian's case the bad bump geometry is what caused the problem.
I've ridden in the full gamut of trucks. Made several suspension comparison videos, actually - want to revisit them in the near future, but the point is most people use bumps as an added 'extra shock' rather than a safety net as intended. In other words, if you find yourself in need of bumps, you are over driving the truck.
I've seen a lot of guys claim you have to have them. Gen 1, maybe. Talked to guys like Foutz and Williams, who both work closely with Ford but also own aftermarket shops. They don't think so - and my testing agrees.
@@T4nkcommander not sure I agree with your logic there. The Gen1 definitely needs it as it also serves as a frame reinforcement. The Gen1 were known to have a weak frame and folded up. The bump stops designed by shops like SVC, RPG, etc... all were extra wide for frame reinforcement.
Now anyone using it as an extra shock, your right. But properly designed and tuned, the bump stop should just smooth out that last little bit before you bottom out. Tuned properly, they should prevent full bottom by about 1/4 in to prevent damage to the frame.
That all being said, there are bad bump stops designs out there. But Bump stops are a way to smooth out the full suspension cycle of the truck and reduce damage.
The foam bumps in the shocks (yes they are foam the compresses) are not protecting anything at speed.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad FYI, only the 2010-2011 models had the standard, weak F150 frame. 2012-2014 got beefed up frames, and the Gen 2 even more so.
The Gen 2 shocks also have a 'bump zone' that is designed to function in that manner close to end of travel. I'm not saying it is as good as an actual replacement bump stop by any means, but it was specifically added to address this. The rubber bump stop is a last resort that should indicate to the driver that they hit their performance limit. Fox made a video demonstrating this that's on youtube and a few other places.
I have the 18. Gonna go cry now.
The Pako Factor 🤣🤣 There is an upside to the 17-18. If you were planning suspension upgrades, it’s a whole lot easier and less hassle. On the 19-20 we have to disable the live valve system to upgrade
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad Glad to hear it! I think after my perch collars I might upgrade the suspension in terms of coil overs and deavers.
19 raptor for about 4 months now and i have a question. when staring it and putting the truck in gear as soon as it move the shifter out of park i get a weird feeling like the shocks are resetting it self or adjusting is this what im feeling?
Lol, yeah caught me off guard too. Everytime I put the truck in drive, the back end would move down a bit.
That’s because when the live valve it off, it’s fully closed. So what ever position the truck was in basically gets locked in. When you put the truck in drive, it finally opens the valve again and you get that slight drop. Weird AF until you realize what’s going on.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad thanks i was thinking it was normal but i was unsure
Soooo I’m looking to upgrade my front shocks. This guy selling his Fox Racing Shox 3.0 Factory Race Series Live Valve Internal Bypass QS3 Adjustable Coilover Shocks 883-06-153. Should I upgrade to that? Or should I stay oem live valve? Are there any differences? I have a 2019 raptor
There is a difference in that the FRS live valves run more oil, are adjustable and have an adjustable height collar.
But you need to look at what your goal is with the truck. Daily driver? Dedicated off-roader? Both? And do you plan to upgrade further later to mid travel?
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad probably gonna be on road most the time and off road occasionally. The guy selling the shock for $1800. Just wanna see if its worth the upgrades 😅
For daily driving you won’t see much difference between your stock shocks and the FRS shocks.
Only really benefit for daily driving is you can adjust the front height without getting a stiff ride.
Personally, I would invest in an Eclick system rather than FRS shocks. That will cost about the same and wake up your live valves offroad and improve onroad manners.
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad thanks man. You helped a ton
It's the valving not the springs.....you want lightest springs to support vehicle and let shocks do the dampening......put better set of shocks on there and will be fine.....OEM even raptors are not optimum for offroad
Older generation with 2.5 had shock piston same size as bilstein 5100.....sure it's same in newer version
Rebound is usually the issue plus size of piston in shock and volume
Talk to fox or king and sure they have setup for that truck....POSSIBLY even Deaver fir leaf spring kit
Can you put these on a lifted truck?
Ross Peterson not sure what good they would do. Live valve are about being able to use suspension travel and stiffening up when they are at full droop. In a lifted truck 1. There is no Live Valve sensors or computers telling them to stiffen or loosen. 2. They won’t use much of the travel because a lifted truck is too rigid and can’t use the full travel of the shocks
Cant wait till you get all your other stuff on, Its gonna be nasty
Andy Brooks thanks man. The new live valves are good enough that they have me slowing down and spacing out my plans a bit so it’s all done right.
I know where Lucern, is this open to the public or need sticker. Can you share the exact location please? I wanna try my Raptor in here.
Rey Abellana i don’t share trail maps man. You want to know the location, join me on a run. I announce them on my personal Instagram (heliomuro)