That plastic cartridge you pulled out if I’m not mistaken comes apart and there are two jets in there, high speed and low speed. Those both need a wire run through and are usually at least partially plugged…common symptom is surging.
@@shaunsouthern7931 Ran across this ole boy, at 6:00 shows how the cartridge comes apart 'Toro Super Recycler CARBURETOR CLEANING , Briggs & Stratton 7.25 PLASTIC carburetor', mine was good, but I can see where it is a good idea as long as you are in there.
Hey bro to anyone who knows anything about carburetors, you open one of these and see exactly what's going on,but to most people,that are just trying to learn,this is a fantastic video. You are very up close with your video,so people can see every little thing,go go from every single part very carefully so there is no way anyone could not understand, yiur thorough and clean..great video dude
THANK YOU so much. Been fighting 2 push mowers for a WEEK. Replace both carburetors and the mowers would only start then surge, then DIE !!! Then found your video on TH-cam and it immediately fixed BOTH mowers. You can be sure that I will save your video link !!! YOUR THE MAN !!!!!!
Thank you for this. Have taken my mower to the shop more than once over the years and they charge up to 130 bucks to fix it. Now it runs better than ever!!! Also used the same micro drill kit to fix my portable weber bbq. Same type of issue where the hole that the propane comes out of just needed to be enlarged!! now that works better than new as well. Cheers!!
my mower was doing the surging thing and I attempted to find a video on Tube back before you posted and I can say without hesitation yours is the best, most informative video in tube land. Mine also does the one pull start after cleaning ! Never thought about drill motor starting the mower GREAT IDEA, THANKS. You get five stars, go to the head of the class. thank you very much Ryan Too bad there isn't some way of directing everyone searching to your video first. Maranatha
Excellent video. I have this exact mower and from the symptoms (would start and then immediately stop), I figured it was the carburetor. I followed your steps and now it runs like a top again. So very helpful. Thanks!
This is a great approach to a common problem. I have found some specs of what does and does not work. (Husqvarna 675 EXi mower, 163cc)Taking your advice, I pulled out the cartridge and found what drill bit fit mine, which was .6mm (0.022"). The next size up in my set was .7mm (0.028 approx.) Starting the engine with filter off, it ran sluggish. Putting the air filter on, it chugged and smoked and finally quit (the auto choke was off by then) from running WAY too rich. Then I extracted that brass jet ferrule from the cartridge, soldered the hole back up, and re-drilled it to .6mm. Then, I got an acetylene torch tip cleaner file that was 0.024" dia, and worked that through the hole. Pushed the ferrule back into the cartridge. Pretty sure that 0.002" dia difference won't help much in combating the clogging problem, so I attacked that from another angle. I removed that black fuel line, which with age begins to deteriorate and flake, replaced it with a clear tygon fuel line on with an inline filter, having to loop it because there's not enough room for it straight on.. The mower fired right up, ran perfectly, and I "hope" this issue will be greatly reduced, if not eliminated. Time will tell. Lesson learned, that B&S size these jets for reasons.
Came across this easy to follow step by step guide and can say it saved the mower from a one-way ticket to the skip. The mower is running a dream👌👍. Thank you
Id like to add, if after cleaning the carb out, and you end up with a surging engine. The jet cartridge actually separates in two pieces. Inside you’ll find more very small holes that may be plugged.
I want to sincerely thank you for this video. I was able to get my mower running thanks to you. When it fired up I almost couldn't believe it. The pride I feel is awesome. Using an electric drill was quite brilliant. Thank you.
I wouldn't remove a carb then blow the block off with air. You can blow grit inside the engine. Clean the block and cooling fins FIRST, prior to opening up the engine.
I been doin this for 40 years,I know if you got a motor that's so sensitive to a little dust that might blow in with a little air sprayer, then you got a little boy motor,and your ok with that but font bring it to the Show, you'll get laughed at by us big boys with regular big boy motors
@@denisconor648 don't let the water go into the hole the spark plug is in,leave the plug in,don't let water go into the carb hole,or the oil filler hole ,don't do these things and your fine
Brilliant explanation of the troublesome carburettor, excellent close ups. The blade sharpening was great too. I have been struggling with my lawnmower repair as a complete beginner. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge.
I've watched 10 different videos today,and by far yours is the most concise and digestible! With that being said, I got my mower running. But it shuts down after 2-3 minutes. What could it possibly be!?
Check the fuel Cap if the vent I block ed it can create a vacuum and after a few minutes it can restrict fuel, iv had this happen on the car and the mower ,to check loosen the cap or remove it and test run and see if it still happen s.
Nice video, a few tips, while using carb cleaner wear safety glasses and rubber gloves, when using air to clean things with carburetor removed, put a rag into the intake and vacuum line preventing old grass and dirt into the motor. These carbs the choke often sticks, simply file 1-2mm from the plastic throttle shaft to prevent it sticking. Thanks
You blew the carb and engine off, with the carb mounting port, open to the head. Your concern about things being clean for reassembly is a good one. But by not covering that intake port while blowing dirt everywhere, you probably blew debris into the engine........ Something to correct and include on your next video. Other than that.....I enjoyed it !!!
This is not the first time I have seen this on TH-cam videos, I seen it on Automotive work too, removing plugs and letting the dirt fall in then spring stuff into the cylinders to wash the dirt in along with it, common sense Blow The Dirt away first then take it apart.
My brother gave me one of those lawn mowers - he thought his employee had ruined it with bad gas and told me I'd probably have to buy a new carb. I went online - and cleaned it. Now I clean it about once every year and a half - it starts on the first soft pull all the time and runs great!
I did a similar carb repair to same model of lawnmower with a 30 piece micro drill bit set from "Harbor Freight" store, recently. I only had to pay $2.99 plus tax for the drill bit set! I was actually able to widen carb jet with micro drill bit attached to a speed variable drill, but i drilled carb jet very slowly and with a few drops of oil on carb jet opening, to keep drill bit cool. It worked out well. My lawnmower runs now......
Watch the eBay replacement plastic carbs.The black o-ring supplied is sometimes slightly larger which can cause a leak and surging. A little teflon tape on the intake tube and the carb worked fine. Excellent video. Thank you.
AT A FLEAMARKET I FOUND A SELFPROPELLED LAWMOWER WITH A MOTOR JUST LIKE IN YOUR VIDEO. IT WOULD START BUT WOULD QUIT AFTER A VERY SHORT TIME. SO FOLLOWING YOUR PRECISE AND CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS ON CARBURETOR DISSASEMBLY I DID IT. REASSEMBLED IT BUT UNFORTUNATELY PROBLEM WAS NOT SOLVED..THEN DECIDED TO REMOVE SPARKPLUG AND OPEN UP THE GAP BECAUSE IT SEEMED TOO CLOSE...INSERTED THE PLUG.....PULLED ON STARTED AND WHAT DO YOU KNOW...MOTOR RUNNING SMOOTHLY AND CONSTANTLY. SO LESSON LEARNED...CHECK PLIG AS WELL....AT LEAST CARBURETOR GOT CLEANED ALSO.
I have pulled a mower from the scrapyard with a Briggs 450e, Firstly I thought what a toy engine is this? But once I dove into it I have to say that someone at Briggs is a genius. This enigne has like half the amount of the parts of the previous Quantum engine. and all the parts are very symply made with automation in mind. Especially that plastic carb. Its brilliant, its like to build an engine with the least amount of parts to get the job done. And it surely gets the job done. I like it.
I would also add that the black o-ring on the carb and the orange o-ring behind the intake tube where the carb slips on can cause an air leak on older mowers or ones that stay outside all the time over time. Just spray some carb cleaner in that area while it is running to see if it causes it to stall. The orange o-ring is out of sight and is a gasket and rarely leaks but the black one on the carb is easily degenerated. So, it is not always the jets. Plus, that jet assembly comes in two parts snapped together for easier cleaning out. Overall, it is not a bad design considering it is just a small job now to service. Remember to put a little oil around bowl o-ring and press it fully into place before attaching the screws. The screws just hold it in place. The o-ring does all the work.
Very worthwhile video with much good info. High oil level possibly because owner using old school process which called for level to be checked without fully bottoming dip stick.
Just fix my neighbor's 3 yrs old one equiped with plastic carburetor after watching 3 difference videos, Check almost every ignition parts possible, open it up, pretty clean inside, without touching the float, pop the cartridge up ... with a sewing package from Dollar Store, pinch with a fine needle through the main jet to unplug then enlarge it slightly by twist wriggling with a Thread Picking Tool it come along with ( needs no micro drill bit ) Air blow slightly to ensure no blockage within, Reassemble accordingly, Check level of High Octane fuel mixes with Stabilizer and Oil level . One pull start, and it stays on and on !
And it’s hard telling where the spray will be exiting, it might go through, if there is no clog or the clog is broken up, or it might come right back out where it went in, right into your face. So YES eye protection is a must have and maybe turn the piece you’re spraying just a bit off of straight on before spraying. Inserting the tube, then covering with a cloth before spraying, to contain the exit spray, works too, but is time consuming (0.125 sec lol) It’s considerably more difficult to mow or work on small engines, or most anything else for that matter, once you are blind. Gloves aren’t a bad idea either, prolonged exposure to carb spray can damage the nerves in your hands.
Iv been working on mowers for over 40 years. I thought I hated these plastic carbs..I actually like them..very simple, easy to clean..however newer engines , of just about all brands are junk..made to toss..
When I pulled my carburetor off there was a metal disc that fell out, it took me a while to figure out where it went and how to insert it. You might want to explain that in your next video of that carburetor.
That was probably the Welch plug in the carb. It’s not supposed to fall out but I’ve actually seen probably a dozen of these mowers by now where it had. They actually seem to run fine without the Welch plug but it is best to buy a new Welch plug for it because if it fell out once it’ll likely fall out again
It's a good thing I never experienced maintaining plastic carburetors from Briggs and Stratton. I still have my old 2008 Craftsman that's in still better condition.
Just fixed mine yesterday. A bit different though no primer bulb and different air cleaner. Carb the same otherwise. Dissassembled carb, determined that I could not blow thru main jet with my mouth. Poked stick very small strand of wire from a bit of stranded wire back in there a few times. the blew thru ok with mouth. Re-assembled and it started first pull and ran great. Just a few basic tools no compressed air or carb cleaner was needed. Must not have used StarTron additive gas in it last mowing last year... BTW this was my first rodeo with that type of plastic carb. But not my first rodeo with small engines. Had not even watched any vids about them. Never found one I could not fix that was not mechanically trashed.
Thanks for the video it was very informative and helpful. In my opinion I won’t use a power tool to reinstall small screws for you’ll have a tendency to break either the plastic part or break the screw. Invest a rubber mat for the top Pfizer your tool tray box.
I could almost start a small shop the way those carbys fail,and then craftsman and a few other lawn trimmers won't run properly when the fuel bulbs go hard...I have an old victa mower I think it was originally my grandfathers its old ,side valve and I think that we modified an old mikini carby and I change the oil occasionally put new blades but I think that old thing has been kicking on at least 30 years engine is still fine but the frame is starting to fail ,my point being they made things to last in the 60s.
Can you do a little blip on the welsh plug beside the main cartridge inside the bowl (what it does and how to replace it when it drops / falls out from using air hose to blow out the bowl during cleaning ? No one else has done a video on that yet for these plastic carbs.
thank you for posting. there appeared to be 2 plastic hose nipples on the right side of the carb, one black [larger], one white [smaller]. i'm guessin the fuel line goes to the larger/black nipple. what attaches to the smaller/white nipple ? thanks.
Those same engines without the primer bulbs have a thermally controlled choke. When you remove the air filter housing you'll see the red o ring gasket. That small round hole to the right is the vent to the float bowl. Inside the carburetor is a welch plug with a small opening that allows the air in. If you look carefully during assembly of the back air filter housing to the carburetor you will see a small gap between the housing and carburetor where the o ring doesn't make contact allowing dirt to enter the float bowl. I discovered this after constantly finding dirt in my float bowl after just a short running period. I placed a tiny piece of foam from an old filter in that gap upon assembly and never had another issue with my carburetor. If you do this make sure you don't totally block air from getting in. I don't know if this is the same with the primer type carburetor but it would be a good idea to check. Avoid carburetor cleaners on all the rubber o rings as it will make them swell and complicate reassembly. It doesn't hurt to drill out the jet as shown in this video just make sure you only go one size bigger than the tightest bit before drilling or you'll have the opposite problem of a rich fuel mixture and black smoke from exhaust.
THANK YOU!!! I bought a used mower and thought I got a deal until it didn’t finish the first cut. First I found several videos in fixing the carb, BUT then I found yours that actually showed me how to jet it. I feel much more confident in this fix. BUT unlike you, I didn’t put the screws for the cover in the top of mower & yep, flipped the cover over & lost them in the grass. Help one more way? Do you know what size/threads those are?
Get one of those magnets-on-a-stick. They extract things the eye can’t see. Those, specialty item, shouldered bolts will be harder to find in a store than in the grass.
This was very informative. I have a Cobra with the 450E version here in the UK. It starts first time every time but the revs hunt once it is warm so thinking of taking the carb apart and cleaning to solve this? Definitely a nice easy engine to work on
Accidents can happen anytime. The only time that I cut open my pants with a chainsaw was when my job started forcing us to wear chaps. My chaps got caught in a stickerbush and caused me to fall. The saw chain made it through the chaps, my jeans and cut into the cigarette pack in my front pocket. Thankfully the fabric of the chaps, hung up the chain and stopped it! So what caused the accident also prevented harm that day, ironic.
I've brought riding lawnmowers to the car wash it's a lot better then low pressure just keep the muffler covered with a rag and the carb filter use a rubber band on the rag or plastic bag and go to town.
I just did basically the same thing to the same mower except the one I was dealing with was also missing the o ring on the gas cap. I thought that was kind of scary. Something to check
i'm now on my third carburetor on this Toro with the briggs and statton plastic carburetor. I've tried drilling and making the main jet hole bigger but that still hasn't solve the surging and hunting problems. The fuel is fresh with additional seafoam and has new plug and oil. I've been repairing small engines for 40 years and these plastic carbs and a nightmare. The engine i'm working on has the auto choke system and after the third carburetor i think i'll inform the customer that they need a new mower.
Pretty sure it's 15/16. I made up a starting fixture from 3/8x6" Carriage bolt, a 15/16" socket and a couple of nuts to lock it in place. Works great, but... *You have to be careful to pull it off quickly when the engine starts,* else it might yank the drill out of your hand.
. Can you remove breather tube going in to engine and replace if yes how? Worried if I pull out how do I get it back in ... cause mine has big rip in it from mouse .
If I spray those rubber o-rings with a carb cleaner I immediately rinse them with water, but then I rinse everything with water after I use carb cleaner then use an air compressor
Just a note, when I pulled my carburetor off , there was a metal piece , I don't know what you call it but it fell out and it took me a while to figure out where it went and how it fit back in there.
Over sizing jets is only making up for a restriction in the idle air circuit. Properly and thoroughly clean the carb and replace the orimg and problems solved!
.. true .. also don't use a grinder only to sharpen the blades.. use a hand file as you are only after a new sherp edge on the blades .. its too easy to over grind leading to unbalance blades
Nothing better than when the carb on screen is the exact one i'm holding in my hand. Thank you Ryan
That plastic cartridge you pulled out if I’m not mistaken comes apart and there are two jets in there, high speed and low speed. Those both need a wire run through and are usually at least partially plugged…common symptom is surging.
Does the jet with the o ring have a hole in? Please. Never see anyone cleaning it .
@@shaunsouthern7931 Ran across this ole boy, at 6:00 shows how the cartridge comes apart 'Toro Super Recycler CARBURETOR CLEANING , Briggs & Stratton 7.25 PLASTIC carburetor', mine was good, but I can see where it is a good idea as long as you are in there.
Hey bro to anyone who knows anything about carburetors, you open one of these and see exactly what's going on,but to most people,that are just trying to learn,this is a fantastic video. You are very up close with your video,so people can see every little thing,go go from every single part very carefully so there is no way anyone could not understand, yiur thorough and clean..great video dude
THANK YOU so much. Been fighting 2 push mowers for a WEEK. Replace both carburetors and the mowers would only start then surge, then DIE !!! Then found your video on TH-cam and it immediately fixed BOTH mowers. You can be sure that I will save your video link !!! YOUR THE MAN !!!!!!
I just put a new carb on mine too, but it still won't start. New plug and filter. What was the hack on here that helped?
Thank you. This is one of the best mower hacks of the decade. I'm looking for more of these types of modifications to do on other mowers. Awesome!
Thank you for this. Have taken my mower to the shop more than once over the years and they charge up to 130 bucks to fix it. Now it runs better than ever!!! Also used the same micro drill kit to fix my portable weber bbq. Same type of issue where the hole that the propane comes out of just needed to be enlarged!! now that works better than new as well. Cheers!!
my mower was doing the surging thing and I attempted to find a video on Tube back before you posted and I can say without hesitation yours is the best, most informative video in tube land. Mine also does the one pull start after cleaning ! Never thought about drill motor starting the mower GREAT IDEA, THANKS. You get five stars, go to the head of the class. thank you very much Ryan Too bad there isn't some way of directing everyone searching to your video first. Maranatha
Excellent. I can not think of any improvement. It is obvious, you thought this out ahead of time. 5 out of 5.
Excellent video. I have this exact mower and from the symptoms (would start and then immediately stop), I figured it was the carburetor. I followed your steps and now it runs like a top again. So very helpful. Thanks!
I drilled the main jet and it worked a treat.thank you for putting up the video.the hunting was driving me crazy
This is a great approach to a common problem. I have found some specs of what does and does not work. (Husqvarna 675 EXi mower, 163cc)Taking your advice, I pulled out the cartridge and found what drill bit fit mine, which was .6mm (0.022"). The next size up in my set was .7mm (0.028 approx.) Starting the engine with filter off, it ran sluggish. Putting the air filter on, it chugged and smoked and finally quit (the auto choke was off by then) from running WAY too rich. Then I extracted that brass jet ferrule from the cartridge, soldered the hole back up, and re-drilled it to .6mm. Then, I got an acetylene torch tip cleaner file that was 0.024" dia, and worked that through the hole. Pushed the ferrule back into the cartridge. Pretty sure that 0.002" dia difference won't help much in combating the clogging problem, so I attacked that from another angle. I removed that black fuel line, which with age begins to deteriorate and flake, replaced it with a clear tygon fuel line on with an inline filter, having to loop it because there's not enough room for it straight on.. The mower fired right up, ran perfectly, and I "hope" this issue will be greatly reduced, if not eliminated. Time will tell. Lesson learned, that B&S size these jets for reasons.
Came across this easy to follow step by step guide and can say it saved the mower from a one-way ticket to the skip.
The mower is running a dream👌👍.
Thank you
This repair just saved this very lawnmower... easy fix too. Great job posting this bad boy
Thank you. Your instructions helped me get my lawnmowers back started .
Id like to add, if after cleaning the carb out, and you end up with a surging engine. The jet cartridge actually separates in two pieces. Inside you’ll find more very small holes that may be plugged.
I want to sincerely thank you for this video. I was able to get my mower running thanks to you. When it fired up I almost couldn't believe it. The pride I feel is awesome. Using an electric drill was quite brilliant. Thank you.
I wouldn't remove a carb then blow the block off with air. You can blow grit inside the engine. Clean the block and cooling fins FIRST, prior to opening up the engine.
Is it possible to power wash engine or is that bad lol.
I been doin this for 40 years,I know if you got a motor that's so sensitive to a little dust that might blow in with a little air sprayer, then you got a little boy motor,and your ok with that but font bring it to the Show, you'll get laughed at by us big boys with regular big boy motors
@@denisconor648 don't let the water go into the hole the spark plug is in,leave the plug in,don't let water go into the carb hole,or the oil filler hole ,don't do these things and your fine
Yeah I cringed watching this part so I’m glad someone else did the same.
Tip: it would be a good idea to cover/block off crankcase ventilation and intake holes when blowing all that dust and crap with the compressor...
Brilliant explanation of the troublesome carburettor, excellent close ups. The blade sharpening was great too. I have been struggling with my lawnmower repair as a complete beginner. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge.
Very detailed, very obvious and yet succinct. Thank you. This is the best I have seen so far.
Thanks!
I've watched 10 different videos today,and by far yours is the most concise and digestible! With that being said, I got my mower running. But it shuts down after 2-3 minutes. What could it possibly be!?
Check the fuel Cap if the vent I block ed it can create a vacuum and after a few minutes it can restrict fuel, iv had this happen on the car and the mower ,to check loosen the cap or remove it and test run and see if it still happen s.
@@rosssmith6775 Have had the same thing happen before. Drilling a small hole in cap can work as solution.
This was a complete process and you documented it well.
Thank you.
I didn't know about drilling out the jet. I'll try that tomorrow and let you know.
I use Walmart oil in small engines all the time and it’s done a great job
Nice video, a few tips, while using carb cleaner wear safety glasses and rubber gloves, when using air to clean things with carburetor removed, put a rag into the intake and vacuum line preventing old grass and dirt into the motor. These carbs the choke often sticks, simply file 1-2mm from the plastic throttle shaft to prevent it sticking.
Thanks
Think you for sharing how to trouble shoot the problem on the carburetor float. This was a big help to this farm boy
You blew the carb and engine off, with the carb mounting port, open to the head. Your concern about things being clean for reassembly is a good one. But by not covering that intake port while blowing dirt everywhere, you probably blew debris into the engine........ Something to correct and include on your next video. Other than that.....I enjoyed it !!!
Don't worry if any dirt goes into the mounting port you can always get it out with your 5/16 mm. 5:36
This is not the first time I have seen this on TH-cam videos, I seen it on Automotive work too, removing plugs and letting the dirt fall in then spring stuff into the cylinders to wash the dirt in along with it, common sense Blow The Dirt away first then take it apart.
My brother gave me one of those lawn mowers - he thought his employee had ruined it with bad gas and told me I'd probably have to buy a new carb. I went online - and cleaned it. Now I clean it about once every year and a half - it starts on the first soft pull all the time and runs great!
I did a similar carb repair to same model of lawnmower with a 30 piece micro drill bit set from "Harbor Freight" store, recently. I only had to pay $2.99 plus tax for the drill bit set! I was actually able to widen carb jet with micro drill bit attached to a speed variable drill, but i drilled carb jet very slowly and with a few drops of oil on carb jet opening, to keep drill bit cool. It worked out well. My lawnmower runs now......
Watch the eBay replacement plastic carbs.The black o-ring supplied is sometimes slightly larger which can cause a leak and surging. A little teflon tape on the intake tube and the carb worked fine. Excellent video. Thank you.
Brake fluid will make a oring in large and soften it
Try it but don’t let it set to long before installing it
The best video so far i seen and very well told 👏 outstanding work 👏
AT A FLEAMARKET I FOUND A SELFPROPELLED LAWMOWER WITH A MOTOR JUST LIKE IN YOUR VIDEO. IT WOULD START BUT WOULD QUIT AFTER A VERY SHORT TIME. SO FOLLOWING YOUR PRECISE AND CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS ON CARBURETOR DISSASEMBLY I DID IT. REASSEMBLED IT BUT UNFORTUNATELY PROBLEM WAS NOT SOLVED..THEN DECIDED TO REMOVE SPARKPLUG AND OPEN UP THE GAP BECAUSE IT SEEMED TOO CLOSE...INSERTED THE PLUG.....PULLED ON STARTED AND WHAT DO YOU KNOW...MOTOR RUNNING SMOOTHLY AND CONSTANTLY. SO LESSON LEARNED...CHECK PLIG AS WELL....AT LEAST CARBURETOR GOT CLEANED ALSO.
No need to SHOUT !!
I have pulled a mower from the scrapyard with a Briggs 450e, Firstly I thought what a toy engine is this? But once I dove into it I have to say that someone at Briggs is a genius. This enigne has like half the amount of the parts of the previous Quantum engine. and all the parts are very symply made with automation in mind. Especially that plastic carb. Its brilliant, its like to build an engine with the least amount of parts to get the job done. And it surely gets the job done. I like it.
I would also add that the black o-ring on the carb and the orange o-ring behind the intake tube where the carb slips on can cause an air leak on older mowers or ones that stay outside all the time over time. Just spray some carb cleaner in that area while it is running to see if it causes it to stall. The orange o-ring is out of sight and is a gasket and rarely leaks but the black one on the carb is easily degenerated. So, it is not always the jets. Plus, that jet assembly comes in two parts snapped together for easier cleaning out. Overall, it is not a bad design considering it is just a small job now to service. Remember to put a little oil around bowl o-ring and press it fully into place before attaching the screws. The screws just hold it in place. The o-ring does all the work.
Ii it up
Thank you
Very good demonstration. Very good video Thanks for sharing.
Very worthwhile video with much good info. High oil level possibly because owner using old school process which called for level to be checked without fully bottoming dip stick.
Or they're used to Honda engines.
Just fix my neighbor's 3 yrs old one equiped with plastic carburetor after watching 3 difference videos,
Check almost every ignition parts possible, open it up, pretty clean inside, without touching the float, pop the cartridge up ... with a sewing package from Dollar Store, pinch with a fine needle through the main jet to unplug then enlarge it slightly by twist wriggling with a Thread Picking Tool it come along with
( needs no micro drill bit ) Air blow slightly to ensure no blockage within, Reassemble accordingly,
Check level of High Octane fuel mixes with Stabilizer and Oil level . One pull start, and it stays on and on !
Good video. Thanks for an interesting tutorial.
Man ! I 'm gonna look like Macgyver, using that cool start up trick. Mahalo nui!
Good video great tips been trying to get my mower going, After watching this video, I think I might have a chance.
Wear eye protection when spraying carb cleaner. Burns like fire when it gets into your eyes.
2 many times I've done that. Surprised I'm not blind yet
And it’s hard telling where the spray will be exiting, it might go through, if there is no clog or the clog is broken up, or it might come right back out where it went in, right into your face. So YES eye protection is a must have and maybe turn the piece you’re spraying just a bit off of straight on before spraying. Inserting the tube, then covering with a cloth before spraying, to contain the exit spray, works too, but is time consuming (0.125 sec lol) It’s considerably more difficult to mow or work on small engines, or most anything else for that matter, once you are blind. Gloves aren’t a bad idea either, prolonged exposure to carb spray can damage the nerves in your hands.
Ryan ,thank you, very good video. Cured my two -year- old mower,Many thanks.
Iv been working on mowers for over 40 years. I thought I hated these plastic carbs..I actually like them..very simple, easy to clean..however newer engines , of just about all brands are junk..made to toss..
When I pulled my carburetor off there was a metal disc that fell out, it took me a while to figure out where it went and how to insert it. You might want to explain that in your next video of that carburetor.
That was probably the Welch plug in the carb. It’s not supposed to fall out but I’ve actually seen probably a dozen of these mowers by now where it had. They actually seem to run fine without the Welch plug but it is best to buy a new Welch plug for it because if it fell out once it’ll likely fall out again
Very informative. Love it ✊🏼💯
It's a good thing I never experienced maintaining plastic carburetors from Briggs and Stratton. I still have my old 2008 Craftsman that's in still better condition.
If you do end up with one the whole assy is about $25 and just snaps on.
Keep funnels in plastic bags to keep them clean
What setting do you have impact at so it won't overtighten screw and strip it
Just fixed mine yesterday. A bit different though no primer bulb and different air cleaner. Carb the same otherwise. Dissassembled carb, determined that I could not blow thru main jet with my mouth. Poked stick very small strand of wire from a bit of stranded wire back in there a few times. the blew thru ok with mouth. Re-assembled and it started first pull and ran great. Just a few basic tools no compressed air or carb cleaner was needed. Must not have used StarTron additive gas in it last mowing last year... BTW this was my first rodeo with that type of plastic carb. But not my first rodeo with small engines. Had not even watched any vids about them. Never found one I could not fix that was not mechanically trashed.
Thanks for the video it was very informative and helpful. In my opinion I won’t use a power tool to reinstall small screws for you’ll have a tendency to break either the plastic part or break the screw. Invest a rubber mat for the top Pfizer your tool tray box.
Thanks for the hack tip 👍
I could almost start a small shop the way those carbys fail,and then craftsman and a few other lawn trimmers won't run properly when the fuel bulbs go hard...I have an old victa mower I think it was originally my grandfathers its old ,side valve and I think that we modified an old mikini carby and I change the oil occasionally put new blades but I think that old thing has been kicking on at least 30 years engine is still fine but the frame is starting to fail ,my point being they made things to last in the 60s.
Can you do a little blip on the welsh plug beside the main cartridge inside the bowl (what it does and how to replace it when it drops / falls out from using air hose to blow out the bowl during cleaning ?
No one else has done a video on that yet for these plastic carbs.
thank you for posting. there appeared to be 2 plastic hose nipples on the right side of the carb, one black [larger], one white [smaller]. i'm guessin the fuel line goes to the larger/black nipple. what attaches to the smaller/white nipple ? thanks.
Second smaller nipple is feed for the primer bulb. Auto-choke carbs only have the one main nipple
Those same engines without the primer bulbs have a thermally controlled choke. When you remove the air filter housing you'll see the red o ring gasket. That small round hole to the right is the vent to the float bowl. Inside the carburetor is a welch plug with a small opening that allows the air in. If you look carefully during assembly of the back air filter housing to the carburetor you will see a small gap between the housing and carburetor where the o ring doesn't make contact allowing dirt to enter the float bowl. I discovered this after constantly finding dirt in my float bowl after just a short running period. I placed a tiny piece of foam from an old filter in that gap upon assembly and never had another issue with my carburetor. If you do this make sure you don't totally block air from getting in. I don't know if this is the same with the primer type carburetor but it would be a good idea to check. Avoid carburetor cleaners on all the rubber o rings as it will make them swell and complicate reassembly. It doesn't hurt to drill out the jet as shown in this video just make sure you only go one size bigger than the tightest bit before drilling or you'll have the opposite problem of a rich fuel mixture and black smoke from exhaust.
THANK YOU!!! I bought a used mower and thought I got a deal until it didn’t finish the first cut. First I found several videos in fixing the carb, BUT then I found yours that actually showed me how to jet it. I feel much more confident in this fix.
BUT unlike you, I didn’t put the screws for the cover in the top of mower & yep, flipped the cover over & lost them in the grass. Help one more way? Do you know what size/threads those are?
Get one of those magnets-on-a-stick. They extract things the eye can’t see. Those, specialty item, shouldered bolts will be harder to find in a store than in the grass.
@@jjgregory4844 And pricey, as I recall, if they're the shoulder bolts/studs.
This was very informative. I have a Cobra with the 450E version here in the UK. It starts first time every time but the revs hunt once it is warm so thinking of taking the carb apart and cleaning to solve this? Definitely a nice easy engine to work on
Do you need hose clips on the gas line?
Great content. Very educational. Thanks and Blessings.
13:24 Is there supposed to be a hole in that brass part that’s on the 3rd tube? Because mine doesn’t.
Good advice. I drilled the jet with a 0.3 mm drill and it seems to have fixed it.
Great and informative video! However, I’d like to see the vice secured while grinding, the use of PPE such as gloves, safety glasses👍
Accidents can happen anytime. The only time that I cut open my pants with a chainsaw was when my job started forcing us to wear chaps. My chaps got caught in a stickerbush and caused me to fall. The saw chain made it through the chaps, my jeans and cut into the cigarette pack in my front pocket. Thankfully the fabric of the chaps, hung up the chain and stopped it! So what caused the accident also prevented harm that day, ironic.
Great repair on a too good to throw away mower!
I've brought riding lawnmowers to the car wash it's a lot better then low pressure just keep the muffler covered with a rag and the carb filter use a rubber band on the rag or plastic bag and go to town.
I enlarged the jet hole as recommended but now the mower wont start at all. Any suggestions?
get new carburetor
I have worked on that model engine, those dipsticks are really not good at indicating the level of oil - very annoying
How would you change the primer ball ?
It pops out with a little flathead screwdriver
I just did basically the same thing to the same mower except the one I was dealing with was also missing the o ring on the gas cap. I thought that was kind of scary. Something to check
Is there a better option to the Briggs plastic garbage? Maybe an aftermarket carb with a better design?
Better yet boil clean the carb in a yard sale crock pot. Run at 200F degrees with a dishwasher soap pod and water for 30 minutes..
You can use torch tip cleaners also
Why a retaining ring AND an o-ring together?
Seems kinda' goofy and would not really seal😮...
i'm now on my third carburetor on this Toro with the briggs and statton plastic carburetor. I've tried drilling and making the main jet hole bigger but that still hasn't solve the surging and hunting problems. The fuel is fresh with additional seafoam and has new plug and oil. I've been repairing small engines for 40 years and these plastic carbs and a nightmare. The engine i'm working on has the auto choke system and after the third carburetor i think i'll inform the customer that they need a new mower.
Symptoms of intermittent ignition coil.. $13 , Amazon.
👍👍👍👍👍👌By far the best tips thanx worked great!!!
What size is the socket you used to start the mower?
Pretty sure it's 15/16.
I made up a starting fixture from 3/8x6" Carriage bolt, a 15/16" socket and a couple of nuts to lock it in place. Works great, but...
*You have to be careful to pull it off quickly when the engine starts,* else it might yank the drill out of your hand.
how did you show us your compressed air at the beginning without pressing the handle twice?
Missed where you cleaned the tank out and for sure that filthy air filter. Little Dawn soap and hot water. Little SAE 30w oil........
. Can you remove breather tube going in to engine and replace if yes how? Worried if I pull out how do I get it back in ... cause mine has big rip in it from mouse .
First thing I do is turn motor over and pressure wash it completely
Fix it or parts it clean and easy to remove and install
What is the device on the drill that you used to start the mower? When I do that, the drill stops and can break your wrist.
Hey Ryan, the briggs 140 550E has a aluminum cylinder, are they any good, I am looking at a murry that has that eng on it
Thanks…I feel more comfortable tearing mine apart now.
Is it common for the primer to go bad. Mine doesn't sound or feel like it's moving any fuel.
Very small zip ties work great for fuel hose clamps
Great explanation. Thanks.
Dipsticks that screw in are checked by just inserting and not screwing in. the oil level was likely fine.
Some of the ones I’ve worked on said to screw in to check.
With Honda motors you don't screw the dipstick in.
If I spray those rubber o-rings with a carb cleaner I immediately rinse them with water, but then I rinse everything with water after I use carb cleaner then use an air compressor
Very Good video...Seeing that these carbs are fairly cheap. Why not just replace it?
Just a note, when I pulled my carburetor off , there was a metal piece , I don't know what you call it but it fell out and it took me a while to figure out where it went and how it fit back in there.
Nice video, very helpful; however, a .02" drill is equal to a .50mm not .58mm.
I noticed you didn't put a clamp on that fuel line when you connected it. Shouldn't that fuel line be clamped to secure it properly?
Thank you for sharing !
Over sizing jets is only making up for a restriction in the idle air circuit. Properly and thoroughly clean the carb and replace the orimg and problems solved!
excellent video, thank you.
Thanks for the awesome content!
It may that 3/5 times to get t right size on some of them
Would of been nice to hear the mower before the repair. Good one 👍 👏
Thank you for your help.
Very helpful. Thank you.
7:49 Please, don't do this. And this 15:57
Clean before disassemble or cover the intake holes with some clean paper.
.. true .. also don't use a grinder only to sharpen the blades.. use a hand file as you are only after a new sherp edge on the blades .. its too easy to over grind leading to unbalance blades
You can take it further apart and clean all holes inside
Very helpful
Thank you dude