I bought one new in 1982. It was a monster, with frightening power and acceleration. Smooth, a beautiful ride. And I survived it. The best bike in the world up to then, and the fastest production bike of 1982.
Thank you from Germany Jon, your informations about the pump of the break in the back helped a lot, hopefully my GSX 1100, from 1983, GU 71 B, will be back on the road soon, engine started after 13 years and long cleaning of the carburator and and and .... :)
While the carbs are off, you might want to replace the rubber seals on the tee connectors on the fuel inlets. My GS developed a massive fuel leak once I got the bike running after years of storage. The petcock leaked as well, and a new one was less pricey than a rebuild kit! Will be going through the braking system next. Great video!
Just rebuilt the front brakes on my ‘83 GS1100E. Seams I have some air trapped in the system even though I use a vacuum bleeder. I’m thinking this is the case due to all of the extra plumbing on this anti-dive brake system. Will be watching to see if you encounter the same issue.
Hi Douglas, I'm replacing the brake lines with Spiegler units (probably later this week). Once the new lines are on, I will force new fluid through the bleeders using a syringe and clear tubing. I start at the caliper on one side, cracking the bleeder on the anit-dive on the same side. Once fluid runs clear out of the anti-dive on that side, I tighten the anti-dive bleeder and loosen the caliper bleeder on the opposite side, and repeat the process. Then the anti-dive. Finally, I loosen the brake line at the master cylinder and force fluid through until it starts to come out. After tightening everything down, I fill the master cylinder and perform a conventional bleed on the system (no vacuum). This method has the benefit of priming the system and forcing the air upward and out prior to the final bleed. I repeat the bleed if needed.
Hey Jon, I have a 2003 Kawasaki zrx1200r. Bought it from a close family friend who had it stored for 5+ years. I Did regular maintenance took it for the first ride and got 30 miles and spun a barring on rod#4. The motors torn apart that’s how I know. The crank has minor scaring and discolored only on number 4 Journal. I’ve hunted for months and no results except for stroker kits but I would rather not go that route. Any help?? Thanks
I'm sorry to hear that! I've never torn down an engine that far. It would probably be much easier and cheaper to replace the engine and transmission unit with a used one. Best of luck with it!
Got to add. I'll second that you have to seperate the carb bank to replace all the fuel tube O-rings. I tried not to and had a slow leak at my fuel Tee.
The fuel line was fossilized, so filter and line will get replaced. I will run fuel to the carbs to test them before unracking. I will do the o-rings if needed.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 Great(?) minds think alike - I first did this back in 1992 to polish the master cylinder bore on a CB250N. I made a cut about one inch deep from one end of the stick, and wedged the steel wool in the slot, making it look kind of like a propel. That way I knew it would turn with the stick.
Hi Jon, I recently discovered your channel and just subscribed because of the great quality content! I have scoured the internet trying to find out what the meaning/difference is between the GS1100E, GS1100G, and GS1100L is?? And cannot find the answer for the life of me! Please help! LOL. Here in Calgary Alberta, there is a red, 1983 GS1100E (just like yours) for sale for about $1700 US, and I am thinking of buying it... perhaps your video is a sign to go for it!
Thanks Troy! The E is the sport standard style, 16-valve, chain-drive model. The G is a standard style bike with 8-valves, and shaft-drive. The L is the cruiser style and was available with both 16-valve and chain-drive or 8-valve and shaft-drive. $1700 is cheap for a GS1100E.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 Thank you Jon for this information, appreciate it. Those are significant differences, and it's nice to finally understand their meanings! I will let you know if I end up buying the GS1100E, and maybe ask another question or two in the future. Cheers.
I bought one new in 1982. It was a monster, with frightening power and acceleration. Smooth, a beautiful ride. And I survived it. The best bike in the world up to then, and the fastest production bike of 1982.
Right on! And still a nice ride today!
Such a gorgeous bike. Following this one with great interest!
Thanks Jeff!
The Big Suzuki’s are all my favorite. There were several very nice motorcycles built in the 1980’s ect. It’s Beautiful !
Thanks Fabian!
My older brother had one of these. He let me ride it one time. I remember it was sweet bike.
Very cool Robert! They are still nice bikes.
Thank you from Germany Jon, your informations about the pump of the break in the back helped a lot, hopefully my GSX 1100, from 1983, GU 71 B, will be back on the road soon, engine started after 13 years and long cleaning of the carburator and and and .... :)
You're welcome! Keep the classics rolling!
Thanks for posting, lots of interest.
Thanks Steven.
Enjoyed the video Jon. Always enjoy videos on carb overhauls. Looking forward to more on this subject. RIDE SAFE JON!
Thanks Henry!
Friend of mine had one of these ( Silver ) brand new in 1983. It was the fastest bike we knew of at the time !
They were quick bikes!
While the carbs are off, you might want to replace the rubber seals on the tee connectors on the fuel inlets. My GS developed a massive fuel leak once I got the bike running after years of storage. The petcock leaked as well, and a new one was less pricey than a rebuild kit! Will be going through the braking system next. Great video!
Great suggestions. I will check the rubber seals prior to installing the carbs again. Just ordered Spiegler lines yesterday.
Nice one, congrats on 2K!
Thanks Doc!
Just rebuilt the front brakes on my ‘83 GS1100E. Seams I have some air trapped in the system even though I use a vacuum bleeder. I’m thinking this is the case due to all of the extra plumbing on this anti-dive brake system.
Will be watching to see if you encounter the same issue.
Hi Douglas, I'm replacing the brake lines with Spiegler units (probably later this week). Once the new lines are on, I will force new fluid through the bleeders using a syringe and clear tubing. I start at the caliper on one side, cracking the bleeder on the anit-dive on the same side. Once fluid runs clear out of the anti-dive on that side, I tighten the anti-dive bleeder and loosen the caliper bleeder on the opposite side, and repeat the process. Then the anti-dive. Finally, I loosen the brake line at the master cylinder and force fluid through until it starts to come out. After tightening everything down, I fill the master cylinder and perform a conventional bleed on the system (no vacuum). This method has the benefit of priming the system and forcing the air upward and out prior to the final bleed. I repeat the bleed if needed.
Hey Jon, I have a 2003 Kawasaki zrx1200r. Bought it from a close family friend who had it stored for 5+ years. I Did regular maintenance took it for the first ride and got 30 miles and spun a barring on rod#4. The motors torn apart that’s how I know. The crank has minor scaring and discolored only on number 4 Journal. I’ve hunted for months and no results except for stroker kits but I would rather not go that route. Any help?? Thanks
I'm sorry to hear that! I've never torn down an engine that far. It would probably be much easier and cheaper to replace the engine and transmission unit with a used one. Best of luck with it!
Love this bike! She's a beut!
That inline fuel fiter, is that big enough for an 1100 at full throttle? Ive got a bigger one on my lawn tractor.
Got to add. I'll second that you have to seperate the carb bank to replace all the fuel tube O-rings.
I tried not to and had a slow leak at my fuel Tee.
The fuel line was fossilized, so filter and line will get replaced. I will run fuel to the carbs to test them before unracking. I will do the o-rings if needed.
Great upload. Did you use anything special to polish the master cylinder?
Thanks Russ! I wrapped fine steel wool, wrapped around a wooden dowel that I chucked up in my electric drill.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 thanks, will be adding that to my tool box.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 Great(?) minds think alike - I first did this back in 1992 to polish the master cylinder bore on a CB250N. I made a cut about one inch deep from one end of the stick, and wedged the steel wool in the slot, making it look kind of like a propel. That way I knew it would turn with the stick.
@@64faffi Right on. Good suggestion.
Hi Jon, I recently discovered your channel and just subscribed because of the great quality content! I have scoured the internet trying to find out what the meaning/difference is between the GS1100E, GS1100G, and GS1100L is?? And cannot find the answer for the life of me! Please help! LOL. Here in Calgary Alberta, there is a red, 1983 GS1100E (just like yours) for sale for about $1700 US, and I am thinking of buying it... perhaps your video is a sign to go for it!
Thanks Troy! The E is the sport standard style, 16-valve, chain-drive model. The G is a standard style bike with 8-valves, and shaft-drive. The L is the cruiser style and was available with both 16-valve and chain-drive or 8-valve and shaft-drive. $1700 is cheap for a GS1100E.
@@jonsmotorcyclerescueandrev3538 Thank you Jon for this information, appreciate it. Those are significant differences, and it's nice to finally understand their meanings! I will let you know if I end up buying the GS1100E, and maybe ask another question or two in the future. Cheers.
@@troybabs Right on Troy! Cheers.