I can't thank you enough, I've been trying to find someone to fix my stove for almost a year and a half now. Thanks to your video I was able to fix my stove and all it cost me was about 15 minutes and $41. Again thank you!
Got this issue this week! I knew it would be an easy fix and I expect to resolve it next week. My only add is WEAR GLOVES when handling sheet metal panels on appliances! A lot of them are unfinished punch outs that can tear you a new finger!
My dual burner stayed on high no matter where I set the dial. I removed the switch to investigate. I took the cover off and turned the knob. I noticed a copper colored bimetalic contact that was staying closed all of the time. I used a tiny screwdriver and bent the contact upward slightly. It sprang back up in the open position. On closer inspection I noticed it was a little warped. I carefully pried it until it was straight. I reassembled the switch and tested it out. Works like new again. I ordered a replacement part just in case this one messes up again. This one worked well for four years so I expect the other one to go as well.
Yep, this really applies to all mechanical electrical switches- especially useful with power window/locks controls in cars. Most of them can be cleaned/rebuilt/repaired to work just fine.
I’m having the same problem and can’t afford to replace the switch and winding if this would work on my stove to nut not sure what part of the switch I need to be looking at.
I just replaced two infinite switches on our Whirlpool electric stove this morning. It took me 20 mins from start to finish and about $80 for parts. Easy job and now both of our dual zone front burners are working correctly. Thanks for your vid. (01/04/24)
Thank You SO MUCH! Our repair guy told us that basically if HE put a new switch in it would go bad and maybe not help at all. Your video will help ME fix it simply. I wish I’d watched you video a year ago! 😊 G
Thank you!!! I was getting ready to haul the stove out to the curb! BOTH front burners were burning red hot no matter where the switch pointed to . very scary.
Thanks for sharing. Oftentimes the secret sauce to troubleshooting & repairing the stove yourself and saving some money in the process is simply having a good understanding of how it works. With the exception of induction cooktops, virtually all electric cooktops, whether they be solid disc (far more common in other parts of the world, notably Europe, making their way into American kitchens for a short time on some KitchenAid, Jennaire and maybe a few other high end models from about the mid 1980s - early 1990s) coil top, or radiant elements under glass, use what's known as an infinite switch, sometimes called a simmerstat, and operates on the principle of duty cylcle control. For example, if I have the control set to medium so that the element spends 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off, that equals a 50% duty cycle, and if this is a 6 inch, 1500 watt element, than my overall power level is 1500W * 0.5, or 750 watts. Some older cooktops from before the 1970s, used a push button or rotary selector switch with 5 fixed heat settings usually marked Hi, Med-Hi, Med-Lo, Lo, Sim. With these cooktops, the element is very different than modern ones in that they (usually) have 3 terminals and are two elements in one burner. Power level is controlled by switching different combinations of 240 or 120V to one or both elements, in series or parallel, varied slightly between manufacturers. With these older cooktops if a burner works on some settings but not the others, either the burner or the selector switch is bad
This was very easy and well guided! Thank you! The module that you purchased is the same one I need for my whirlpool stove, I have 2 burners with this issue. Would you happens to know if it will resolve both or a separate one will be needed?
it’s great video but i have a question I have same stove model The burner switch only first one you changed it’s good in my stove but rest of burners are not working do you think it’s the switches thank you sir
Thanks for video, I believe we have the same stove. I am trying to find the link, to ordering the part. I have the numbers on the switch. Again many thanks.
Hi again! What are the white plastic parts that the switch fits into that connects the wires on the other side called? I’m trying to order that part (mine melted) but don’t know what it’s called.
Thanks for this detailed video. This part is out of stock on Amazon and most of the other outlets. Would you know any other vendors who is still selling this part? Any help would be appreciated
Thanks! Is the metal plate on the oven door with the "warning" info with a number W10406473A the model number? Unit is too heavy for me to move full range off the wall to look. Also how do I know which wire goes with the correct burner? My broken one is the Front Right SINGLE LARGE burner. Not the "Dual Element" Thanks
Hello there, we have Amana stove instead of whirlpool. Anyway, the stove won’t turn off, the burner can go from low-high but it won’t turn off. We open the knob to see the problem, it looks like the control switch is very loose and it turn easily but the burner won’t turn off when we left the switch at “off”. Should we just replace the switch or is there another way? Thanks in advance!
I have the same issue and have replaced the switch. It seems to still have the same issue. Can it be any other issue? All other videos I found only replace the switch. The part number I got has been replaced with a universal switch. This is for a single zone burner.
@@BeyondtheBoom I'm not seeing a sticker but I did take apart the stove and ordered a replacement switch based on the part number. Thanks for the video. I never would've known what the problem was. I was expecting to have to pay a lot of money to fix it or just learn to live with it but it should be an easy inexpensive fix.
I have the opposite problem. It turns on only half second turn off like 5 seconds then back on for half second. It would take forever to boil water. Is that part of the safety feature ? It's so annoying to cook anything.
Happy you showed unplugging the stove Glad you clarified dual zone vs single zone I think you should remove the entire back panel for safety Thanks for mentioning that the part number is on the back of the switch
Was cooking on this same burner when it just turned off and stopped heating. I am going to assume the burner is still good and it's the switch that went bad and I'll replace the switch. If anyone thinks different, please feel free to comment. This is the burner and switch that gets used the most.
@@BeyondtheBoom Thanks, I ordered the switch and already have it. With shipping and tax it came to $68.00 I looked at the switch and I can't believe it cost them more than $10.00 to produce, but oh well. It's better than buying a new stove or calling _The Guy_ to come out and fixe it for $200.00 Thanks for putting this video together. I've fixed so many of my own appliances by watching videos like yours..... and that translate into money saved.
@@BeyondtheBoom It's pretty obvious. I have been in manufacturing for many years. Impact wrenches and drills maybe in the GM plant, lol. Appliance plants, air tools at the lowest setting, so as not to strip screws, screw heads. If you were reassembling more than one stove then yes, power drill/driver.
To call someone to fix this would probably be over $150? I have a home warranty and the deductible is $150. I’m trying to figure out what makes more sense
I can't thank you enough, I've been trying to find someone to fix my stove for almost a year and a half now. Thanks to your video I was able to fix my stove and all it cost me was about 15 minutes and $41. Again thank you!
I'm glad it helped.
Got this issue this week! I knew it would be an easy fix and I expect to resolve it next week. My only add is WEAR GLOVES when handling sheet metal panels on appliances! A lot of them are unfinished punch outs that can tear you a new finger!
Glad it worked. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for going through this slowly and in detail for beginners like me!
Thanks for watching
I successfully fixed my stove this week. Thanks for the tutorial!
I'm glad to help
My dual burner stayed on high no matter where I set the dial. I removed the switch to investigate. I took the cover off and turned the knob. I noticed a copper colored bimetalic contact that was staying closed all of the time. I used a tiny screwdriver and bent the contact upward slightly. It sprang back up in the open position. On closer inspection I noticed it was a little warped. I carefully pried it until it was straight. I reassembled the switch and tested it out. Works like new again. I ordered a replacement part just in case this one messes up again. This one worked well for four years so I expect the other one to go as well.
That works
@@BeyondtheBoom can you tell me the part for this same oven but for the right bottom single burner? It doesn’t go on at all. thank you
Yep, this really applies to all mechanical electrical switches- especially useful with power window/locks controls in cars. Most of them can be cleaned/rebuilt/repaired to work just fine.
I’m having the same problem and can’t afford to replace the switch and winding if this would work on my stove to nut not sure what part of the switch I need to be looking at.
Thank you for this video!!! Same exact burner/ problem started for me last week. You have save me a lot of money 😅
Thanks for watching
I just replaced two infinite switches on our Whirlpool electric stove this morning. It took me 20 mins from start to finish and about $80 for parts. Easy job and now both of our dual zone front burners are working correctly. Thanks for your vid. (01/04/24)
Nice work!
Where did you buy the parts?
😅
@@robertmccann380 I bought them on Amazon. They were cheaper than my local parts supplier and I got free shipping.
Glad I found you! Very clear and easy directions. Now I need to order part and try this out.🤞
Link is in the description
my stove started having this issue a few weeks ago. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for watching
Thank You SO MUCH! Our repair guy told us that basically if HE put a new switch in it would go bad and maybe not help at all. Your video will help ME fix it simply. I wish I’d watched you video a year ago! 😊 G
Thanks for watching Gordon
Great video! Exactly our issue and easy repair with your video. Just know your switches may be different than what’s seen in video.
Make sure to look up the model number of your stove to match it.
Thank you so much for sharing this information! Now I’m going to fix my stove! 👏👏👏
Thanks for watching
Thanks!
Thank you very much.
Thanks for the video... Gonna fix mine. So sad that appliances are such garbage these days.
Agreed. I've actually had to add another one as well.
Thanks for the video, got my whirlpool working normally again!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the simple, easy to follow video. I have the same issue and it fixed it fast.
Glad to hear it helped. It's a simple repair.
Thank you, this is such an easy repair. I will be ordering this soon
Check the description for the parts.
Thank you for mentioning about it being a dual switch for that burner.
There is a difference in the switches if you need to replace one, make sure it is the right replacement.
Thank you!!! I was getting ready to haul the stove out to the curb! BOTH front burners were burning red hot no matter where the switch pointed to . very scary.
The problem is easily fixed. Thanks for watching
Thank you! This seems easy enough to repair.
It's very easy.
Thanks for sharing. Oftentimes the secret sauce to troubleshooting & repairing the stove yourself and saving some money in the process is simply having a good understanding of how it works.
With the exception of induction cooktops, virtually all electric cooktops, whether they be solid disc (far more common in other parts of the world, notably Europe, making their way into American kitchens for a short time on some KitchenAid, Jennaire and maybe a few other high end models from about the mid 1980s - early 1990s) coil top, or radiant elements under glass, use what's known as an infinite switch, sometimes called a simmerstat, and operates on the principle of duty cylcle control. For example, if I have the control set to medium so that the element spends 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off, that equals a 50% duty cycle, and if this is a 6 inch, 1500 watt element, than my overall power level is 1500W * 0.5, or 750 watts.
Some older cooktops from before the 1970s, used a push button or rotary selector switch with 5 fixed heat settings usually marked Hi, Med-Hi, Med-Lo, Lo, Sim. With these cooktops, the element is very different than modern ones in that they (usually) have 3 terminals and are two elements in one burner. Power level is controlled by switching different combinations of 240 or 120V to one or both elements, in series or parallel, varied slightly between manufacturers. With these older cooktops if a burner works on some settings but not the others, either the burner or the selector switch is bad
Thanks for watching
Thanks for video. Mine need to replace both front burner switch. Ihear arcing noise sometimes.
Glad it helped
Nice, I'll have to get a new switch for mine this week, thanks!
Link in the description
This was very easy and well guided! Thank you! The module that you purchased is the same one I need for my whirlpool stove, I have 2 burners with this issue. Would you happens to know if it will resolve both or a separate one will be needed?
Thanks for watching.
9/2024 I have the front 2 duals burning hot! getting ready to order the switch did you order 2 switches, or did one switch fix both?
it’s great video but i have a question I have same stove model The burner switch only first one you changed it’s good in my stove but rest of burners are not working do you think it’s the switches
thank you sir
The switches are what control the burner.
Thanks for video, I believe we have the same stove. I am trying to find the link, to ordering the part. I have the numbers on the switch. Again many thanks.
It's linked in the description.
Hi again! What are the white plastic parts that the switch fits into that connects the wires on the other side called? I’m trying to order that part (mine melted) but don’t know what it’s called.
Those are the plugs but I have no idea what the specific part number would be. Sorry.
What about if all burners stay on high? Is it still a switch issue? Thanks!
If it happened all at once, you might want to have someone check it. There could be a serious electrical issue.
I have a Kenmore flat top. Right lower burner just turn on on its own all the way to high. Switch seems to be working though. Thoughts??
The switch is what controls it on most models .
Nicely done, sir! Being a professor, I would give you a grade of 2A ;-)
Thanks for watching
thanks so much for this video now i know what to do with my stove ,thanks
Glad I could help
Thanks. Does anyone know if there a temperature sensor in the stove top that could also be a source of failure,
or is it always the control switch?
Control switch
I have the issue but it appears to be with the four discs so I am unsure if I need to change all for of them… Thanks for the help
If I have multiple burners having this issue do I need to replace multiple switches or does that switch (blue piece) work for all the burners ?
There's a difference in the switches between the two zone burners and the single
Mine is doing the opposite. It won’t stay on high. I’m going to try this switch replacement. Thanks
The switch could be the problem
Thank you for your video 👍🏽
Thanks for this detailed video. This part is out of stock on Amazon and most of the other outlets. Would you know any other vendors who is still selling this part? Any help would be appreciated
I think this is the new one but make sure to check the model of your stove. amzn.to/3Y0YhvJ
Literally my exact stove, thank you!
Don't miss the South Park Panderverse episode where Handymen take over!
Thanks for watching
After burning my food for weeks stuck on high. First thing to try is flip the breaker for 30 seconds to reboot. It fixed mine.
Is there a breaker on your stove?
@ no in the garage. Or unplug it for 30 seconds. On mine, all the burners lost the low setting.
It will do it again.
thanks so much for a great detailed video! Well done!
Thanks for watching
Thanks! Is the metal plate on the oven door with the "warning" info with a number W10406473A the model number?
Unit is too heavy for me to move full range off the wall to look.
Also how do I know which wire goes with the correct burner?
My broken one is the Front Right SINGLE LARGE burner. Not the "Dual Element"
Thanks
Yes I think so
Hello there, we have Amana stove instead of whirlpool. Anyway, the stove won’t turn off, the burner can go from low-high but it won’t turn off. We open the knob to see the problem, it looks like the control switch is very loose and it turn easily but the burner won’t turn off when we left the switch at “off”.
Should we just replace the switch or is there another way? Thanks in advance!
Replacing the switch would be the first step.
I like the tutorial thank you I think you’re going to help me fix my stove. Just why did you need a gun on your hip?
I always carry a gun.
Hello Sir
Do you think all of 4 switches are the same or different?thank you.
No, they are different
Thanks for the video. This helps a lot.
Thanks for watching
I have the same issue and have replaced the switch. It seems to still have the same issue. Can it be any other issue? All other videos I found only replace the switch. The part number I got has been replaced with a universal switch. This is for a single zone burner.
I would try to get the original part. If it turns out to be the element you may want to have someone repair it or just get a new one.
Where can you buy the part ? Thanks
The link is in the description
Where do you typically find the model number of the stove?
Look for a sticker on the back.
@@BeyondtheBoom I'm not seeing a sticker but I did take apart the stove and ordered a replacement switch based on the part number. Thanks for the video. I never would've known what the problem was. I was expecting to have to pay a lot of money to fix it or just learn to live with it but it should be an easy inexpensive fix.
How did you know which element it was ? Our stove has both cook top hot and hot surface on.
It would get super hot even on low
Thanks for posting, good job!
Thanks for watching
The big burner turns on and off within seconds can i change the switch?
The switches are what controls them.
What if only the single element works but nut the dual mode on the same section, what could be defected?
The switch
how do i know the switch to replace for a single burner that does not go on at all. Please reply, the burner is the front right one
The best thing to do is to use the part numbers that are on the switch itself
Very good video thanks 👍
Thanks for watching.
My element is doing the opposite: if I turn it on high it only heats to low… do you think this fix would work for me as well?
Thanks 😊
I would replace the switch first.
Great instructions
Thanks
all rour of my burners are high all the time..i need to change all 4 ?
Start with one of them and if it fixes the problem then change the others.
This is exactly what’s going on with ours, the exact same burner also and model.
It's the switch
Thanks for the help sir!
Thanks for watching
My glass is cracked...it's a GE..can I replace the glass portion with a Whirlpool top or no?
I don't know for sure.
Awesome! Thank you! I will do that!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for your vid
Thanks for watching
Thanks! Good job!!!
Thanks for watching
You removed the old switch with ease. What am I doing wrong
Make sure you loosen the nut that holds it in place
Worked like a hot damn. Haha. Thank you very much.
Glad it worked. Thanks for watching.
One of my burner's turns on then you can hear a low clicking sound then it turns off how can I troubleshoot this please help..
Replace the switch.
anyone know the name or part number for the SINGLE controller
Check the description for the link.
Great video
Thanks!
Where you order part give number part I has same one like yours whirlpool
Parts are linked in the description of the video.
How about when it works on high but if i set it to medium or low the heat turns off what causes that issue?
The switch is what controls it
Thanks
I have the opposite problem. It turns on only half second turn off like 5 seconds then back on for half second. It would take forever to boil water. Is that part of the safety feature ? It's so annoying to cook anything.
It could be the switch
Got this issue, it started popping a breaker when I use it!!
Replace the switch
❤❤❤👍👍👍
Thank you
Thanks for watching and please subscribe for more
Must be these stoves cause I have that exact stove minus the middle back burner and came with the same issue
They make everything as cheap as they can these days.
Where's the link for the switch?
In the video description
What if the burner doesn't come on at all ?
It could either be the switch or the element.
Happy you showed unplugging the stove
Glad you clarified dual zone vs single zone
I think you should remove the entire back panel for safety
Thanks for mentioning that the part number is on the back of the switch
Thanks for watching
Thank you sir!
Thanks for watching
thank you
Thanks for watching
I have the same stove and a problem with the same burner
I think it's common with them
My bottom right burner fluctuates from high and low. I changed the infinite switch and the burner itself amd its still happening. Heeelllpppppp
The switch is what controls the burner
Awesome, thanks! Always carry!
I always do. Check out my main channel here. th-cam.com/users/boomsticktactical
Nice
Thanks for watching.
Was cooking on this same burner when it just turned off and stopped heating.
I am going to assume the burner is still good and it's the switch that went bad and I'll replace the switch.
If anyone thinks different, please feel free to comment.
This is the burner and switch that gets used the most.
The switch might be the problem
@@BeyondtheBoom Thanks, I ordered the switch and already have it.
With shipping and tax it came to $68.00
I looked at the switch and I can't believe it cost them more than $10.00 to produce, but oh well. It's better than buying a new stove or calling _The Guy_ to come out and fixe it for $200.00
Thanks for putting this video together.
I've fixed so many of my own appliances by watching videos like yours..... and that translate into money saved.
The cook top on light stays on when it's off
They do for a while to show the cooktop is hot
Thx for the video but BS on those connectors coming off that easy (exact same one).
You watched me pull them off. Take a small screwdriver and work it off if you're having trouble
Using an impact driver to loosen or tighten the switch screws is a bad idea.
How do you think they built them?
@@BeyondtheBoom It's pretty obvious. I have been in manufacturing for many years. Impact wrenches and drills maybe in the GM plant, lol. Appliance plants, air tools at the lowest setting, so as not to strip screws, screw heads. If you were reassembling more than one stove then yes, power drill/driver.
Irritating a guy carrying a gun is a bad idea, Poindexter
👍
👍
To call someone to fix this would probably be over $150? I have a home warranty and the deductible is $150. I’m trying to figure out what makes more sense
The switch isn't nearly that much
And the gun for what??
Home security and self defense, of course. But don't worry, it is loaded and ready to go.
Top and bottom stay on all the time
Might be a stuck relay or controller issue.
ρяσмσѕм 💖
Thanks for watching
I HATE electric stoves for this exact reason. I’ve never had one that didnt go way overboard on temperature, even when working correctly.
Depends on where you are and what you can afford
Thank you for saving me a $ervice call.
Thanks for watching
My stove big burner turn on and off within seconds what cause this?