Electric Range Stove Repair: How To Repair Burner Elements
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- How To Troubleshoot and Repair Electric Range Burner Elements! How to Fix Electric Stove Burner Elements That Won't Turn On Or Won't Turn Off. This ApplianceAssist... Video Will Show How To Fix Electric Range Elements That Stick On Or Won't Cycle Off. How Electric Range Burner Elements Work. How Stove Burner Switches Work. How To Test Stove Burner Element Switches. How To Test Range Burner Elements. How To Check Voltage Supply For An Electric Range. More Range and Stove Troubleshooting, Repair Help, And Appliance Parts Available At applianceassist...
For proper appliance repair training I recommend training.freds...
Just started a new job training in appliance repair and this really cleared up a lot of the parts that have been confusing me. You make it very easy to understand. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped! It took me a while to understand these concepts also. If you are looking for appliance service management software... I have built a web application system that I'm pretty proud of. It's servicenode.work If you check it out and have any questions let me know!
Excellent instructional video. Good clear voice and diction. Clear graphics. Pacing and level of detail bang on. Thanks.
I've been repairing my own appliances for a while now.
This was a great video that gave me information that was useful.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!! Fixed the stove top just before Christmas. I am now my wife's hero. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
i never wrote a comment on you tube.. but this is by far an excellent tutorial. keep them coming
Thanks so much! Fixed my problem @5:18 The replacement switch I ordered was the issue, the infinite switch was rubbing against the plastic housing causing it to bind and get stuck, not allowing current to flow through. Used a razor blade to remove some plastic and allow the infinite switch to move freely, good as new!
Now that's what I'm talking about! Good observation skills! thanks for taking the time to comment!
one of the best vids i have seen on this type of repair, exceptionally good. I liked how you showed close up of how the element terminals slide into the copper receptacles
Thank you for taking the time to comment! Glad you liked it!
The idea is basically the same the main difference is the need for a pan or pot with a fairly flat bottom for better heat transfer. the only other issue is when your tasty culinary concoction is complete, it is a good idea to move it to a cool surface element because cool down time is fairly slow with electric surface elements. Also if you have a glass top be careful not to use pots and pans that may scratch the surface. Good luck! Thanks for the question!
It is a 9 years ago video. However, it explained well with the mechanism. Very helpful. Thanks!
Fantastic video: Concise, accurate AND entertaining.
Excellent video! Saved me the cost of a professional technician servicing my faulty burner.
Sorry for the slow response. on the Frigidaire style there are a few Phillips head screws on the under side of the top that you can see when you open the oven door. at that point the top hinges up on two tabs under the back of the top. Be super careful!! you may want to have someone else there to help. If the top breaks it's very expensive to replace! Good luck!
It's hard to make appliance repair entertaining : ) Thank you!
Thank you for the information. I had replaced the entire cook top wiring with a wire set from another brand of range. My brother sent me the replacement from a scavenged unit as mine only had two working burners. Replacement went flawlessly without help but the large element I usually use to boil water now took forever and never fully boiled.
Your identifying the amperage range of the switches was the solution I needed. I simply swapped the infinite switches for the left two elements and solved the problem. The right two were already connected correctly. I can only guess that the original stove had both large burners on the front.
This is an awesome video. Thanks for your efforts. Concise and well explained. Helped me alot. I was working on a range that had 2 dual elements and they are both operating erratically. I was thinking it might be due to the temp probe on the element and told "no that probe is simply for the pilot lights so it is most likely the control switch/knob that is the problem. Your video seems to confirm that all the heat cycling is done at the control switch/knob. Is that correct?
Thats the direction I would try first. Good luck!
Excellent info... Thank you
excellent, succinct and fun video. My frigidaire electric oven goes to 375F, but no higher. Is it likely to be the control block, or could it be the heating element?
Probably the best video I've seen on this ever
I am struggling with my heating element, and will probably have to get someone to repair it. But I will continue watching this video, rewatching it. Maybe write down the instructions. Very good video, I just need to study this video carefully.
Thank you very much. You shined my day. I've just reset the range circuit breaker and it worked. Awesome video. Thanks and thanks.
Wonderful! Thanks for the comment!
Excellent job. Very understandable. Lol "it takes 2 to make a thing go right" 😅
I have my grandpa's multimeter and was trained as an electrician Apprentice, so i understand alot of your tutorial. Appliances are pretty interesting.
THUMBS UP!!!! I think your video is great. Very informative and Entertaining. I'm definitely more confident in trouble shooting my burner issue. Thank you for taking the time to educate others!
Thanks! This video helped me figure out the problem with my stove! The element control switches were switched (pun intended), so that the small and large burners were mismatched. It caused the large burner to not really heat at all unless you turned it on high. It must have been that way from the factory. I just switched the switches and everything seems fine.
Congratulations! Switching switched switches...Perfect! Thanks for the comment!
Thank you. I could not find a how to for removal of a top forever. I changed my element in about 20 minutes after watching this.
That was perfect for a me who does not know anything about appliances.
Either the thing that gets red is broken. Or the switch. Or the wires. Or the connection between all that.
This tutorial helped me avoid a tech visit. My breaker was the problem!
My pleasure! Unfortunately no, this is the only range video I've made. But in most cases the back panel will come off with a few screws and the switch is held in place by 2 screws behind the knob. You need to order the switch by the range model number which is usually located behind the storage drawer on a sticker on the frame of the range. Make sure you get the right one for that element, they can be different depending on the element size. Good luck! Thanks for the question!
hard to say for sure but it definitely is a shot to the cabinet somewhere... Do you have a model number? I don't know if I will be able to find any diagrams for a range from the 50's but its worth a shot. I would probably just start looking for a short somewhere between the buttons and the heating element.
I learned a lot after 7 minute video. Thank you
That did have a slight speed adjustment but no by much. after they have heated up a few times they are about that fast. Thanks for the question!
Now I got somewhere to start....if I turn on most if not all my heating elements like to mid heat 4-6, the burner bearly heats up. So I got to turn it on high, let it heat up, then back down to mid....then you walk away...come back and no heat again...
I was ready to throw the range out the back door but maybe its simple fix! Good video!!!
Moving my GE true temp glass top stove has 4 prongs and old stove only had three, how do I convert to 4 prong?
You buy a four prong range cord and connect as follows. The black and red are the two hots and connect to L1 & L2 respectively, the white is neutral and goes to the corresponding terminal. Green is ground and connects to the frame, typically a typically a green hexagon screw. You must remove the bonding strap or wire that connects the neutral to frame if you're converting the range from a 3 wire to 4 wire setup. You must reconnect the neutral to frame bond if converting from 4 wire to 3 wire. For this reason it's a good idea to hang onto the bonding strap in case you move into an older home with 3 wire range/dryer receptacles in the future and plan on taking the appliances with you.
The oven does work. The stove and over arent together the stove top is on a cabinet sort of way and the stove is in the wall type if that makes any sense lol thanks for replying your videos are more helpful than you know and saves alot of money for people.
Great content and information in a nice and tight package. Well done!
Well that kind of is what they are supposed to do... Is it not getting hot enough over all? When they are on they are full on, then cycle off to cool down, then back on again and off and on and off... Side note: If the element is heating up to red it is okay. So if the temperatures are not good enough I would lean toward a weak infinite switch... Hope that helps! Good luck!
Perfect! I just ran into my first bad simmer control board last week... Same symptoms. Thanks for the comment!
That was my thinking as well. Ordered a new element last week. Not in love with this range but not ready to replace it yet either.
i actually wish it was longer than 7 minutes, a good watch indeed. tks
very good information in such a short video
where do i send the check, you just saved me a bunch of money ;^)
Man this video is so old but should still be good
Whatever elements are sticking on sound like they need new control switches. most likely the L2-H2 connection is shorted closed and not cycling properly. when the switch is turned completely off then the L1-H1 contact opens and turns the element off. Good luck! Thanks for the question!
Thx for the video. My left front burner was not working - and it is the one controlled by the simmer select control board. After testing the infinite switch for continuity L1/H1 and L2/H2 to be okay - I ordered a replacement simmer select control board and now its back to working order. Save hundreds on a repair man visit.
Thank you I check out the power connection with a meter and only one leg had power so I rewired it and it working great now.
Perfect, Congratulations!
that's a great video. im gonna subscribe.
my friend just told me they got a shock and I thought id try and help her out.
I asked if she removed the elements to clean and or saw any defect in the element herself.
im waiting to hear back. any advice?
I know its an apartment stove and gotta be 3 wire cause that house is old.
I have great difficulty paying attention to videos, especially instructional. I usually have to watch it a few times to figure them out, but you sir; Need a handshake. Thank you so much! Pofessional and simple. Keep up the great work!
Excellent instructional video. Thank you very much!!
Hi, I'm so happy to found your explanations. I bought a Maytag in 2007 but the triple surface burner element never work. By the time, I realized it, the guarantee was finish. I checked everywhere with multimeter and the problem seams to be a broken coil. I want to know if it's reparable ? Can I do welding on it ? or need to replace ? It's very expensive, about 150$
Can you help me please ?
Most likely... It sounds like the L2 connection is welded closed within both switches. You can use a meter to verify... the L2 and H2 connections should not have any contact when the switch is off.
Thanks for the comment!
Excellent video, I've done my part helping, I shared it on Facebook. Good luck with the ratings.
Thanks for your video. What should I do with broken filament? Is there a way to reuse it or solder join?
There isn’t anything official that I’ve heard of or tried, but if you can figure something out that works I would love to hear about it.
Solder wouldn’t work because of the heat involved.
Great video, keep up the great work, Thanks for taking your time to help others.
Thank you!
Great, if only you could make Calculus this simple!
great vid!! i have a jenn aire that i just dumped water on and shorted something out how do i get the top off? thewater popped and flashed under thetop the oven shut and locked cloesed but the top burners showed power when i turned them on , its unplugged and drying out
Thanks for the input. How was the video from 1:44 on? Did you have a question I can help with?
The GE stove (Kitchen Center) is mod# LJ247P1N2 11.9 from the inside of oven door.the pic shows the wiring behind the control panel. I replaced the original wiring with hi-temp wire and put hi temp ring terminals on the ends to make secure connections. any idea where I could find a wiring diagram using this model number?
Great video!
Having problems with an old Jenn Air downddraft built-in counter stove/grill.
The two elements on the rihgt hade side are still functional.
On the left, there is either an insertable tray containing two more burner elemnts or one large barbecu type burner.
Barbecu element stopped working and when replaced by the two burner tray, one of the two burners no longer worked. Replaced a burnt fuse and when turning switch for the non functional burner element fuse blows again. To con't..
Good clear well made video, Thanks!
Thank you! It's a slow difficult process, so this means a lot!
great presentation about a look "behind the scene"
Thank you!
Great video Thanks, like to ask you a question I am not getting the 240 volts when touching both hot wires. I do get the 120 volts off each side. where could I start looking for the problem
I have a whirlpool electric stove Model RF385PXE. Both of the large burners get extremely hot/red regardless of what setting you have it on. One started to do it and we just disregarded it and used the other burners. Now, the other large burner is doing it as well. Would changing the switch on both of these burners fix it?
Great great video!! I have a Frigidaire Galleria and the two front burners on each side won't heat up to red level although they still get warm. What do think the issue is? Thoughts?
Thanks!
I was able to successfully replace the switch for a large burner. I also replaced a small burner switch that “sticks on” but it’s not acting any different. Burner itself was replaced too. What am I missing?
How often should the elements be cycling on and off. I put all switches on 5 and they seem to cycle on and off about the same. It’s a glass top stove very similar to the one in this video. Not too familiar with this style. Just wondering if it’s normal. Bought it used , everything else seems to work fine.
sounds like a power supply problem... many times the L1 and L2 are connected in series down the burner switches so you may have a bad connection somewhere before the wires get to the front burners??? Kind of a strange problem... To be sure you will need to check for 240 into and out of each of the switches in question. hopefully the results will point the way. You can also eliminate burner problems by using the Ω setting and testing the unplugged burner wires (power off) Be careful! Good luck!
Thanks for the explanation on the infinite switch!
Well it could be a power supply problem or the element may be partially bad. You can check for 240 Volts when the element is on and divide you options. if you have 240 VAC then it should be the element and if you don't check the home electricity supply or the control component. Hope that helps!
What a great video...!! any thoughts with 1 out of the 3 burners not working? I get a power reading on the 3 operational burners, but no reading at all on the bad one. Any suggestions?
Probably a bad switch that is controlling that element. check voltage at the switch L1 and L2 is input so you should have 240 VAC there all the time… Then if the switch is on high you should get 240 VAC at H1 and H2 which are the output connections. Good luck!
This was a great video, I didn't understand all of it, but I'm sure if I go to the site I will learn, gave a scribe for all the useful info, 👍
Great video, thank you so much. I have a 16 yr old Kitchenaid glasstop range/oven. The right burner doesn't work. Anything tricky about working on glasstop burners? I'm ready to jump right in and fix it (but I'm scared to as well!!!!) LOL! Thanks again.
I thought the video's were very well done, easy to follow.
I found the model number but I'm not familiar enough with that type to know from memory, and the diagram doesn't really show how it is attached... Most have screws that secure the top from the front... You should see them if you open the door. If not I would take the back off and look from behind for screws that are holding the top back. If that is the case it should slide forward a little and lift off once you remove the screws. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Good luck!
very informative. But where is the switch for the warming zone element centre back of my frigidaire stove top? It's controlled by pressing a button repeatedly on the panel beside the clock. The element doesn't turn on, and before replacing it, I wondered if something else could be the issue with it.
I have an old 50's GE electric stove which I repaired (mostly) by replacing the burners and wiring to the switch banks from each burner. Everything works fine except when pushing any of the warm buttons (lowest setting on switches). If any warm button is pushed, the breaker trips instantly. Any ideas on what's the problem? the burners are double coiled. Jeff
Liked, subscribed and I want to say this video is helpful
Its was a very well explained video
Thanks buddy! That was a super presentation! Cheers!
Excellent presentation.
I have a Kenmore glass top stove. Front left burner, once turned on, will not turn off. Any ideas?
Thanks for the great video. I have a newer Maytag glass top rage and the high output element will only work on medium to high. Nothing below works at all. I have already replaced the switch and that doesn't seem to be the issue. Any suggestions? Thanks.
What is the model number? I will try to find the wire diagram and take a look.
Can the contacts be cleaned with fine grit sand paper like a points style distributor on a car? Would that make the heating element build heat faster?
my range is over 10 year old. At first, the problem is that some of the burners can not be properly controlled by the power knob, and they will keep burning. And after a few months, suddenly three of them went of work simultaneously. I think there were chances that water spilled and leaked into under the heating panel. What do you think is the most possible causes? Burner wire broken or swith?
Also of note is that when I turn on the remaining functional burner on the 2 burner insertable tray...while the fuse is burnt...both of the elements in the tray heat up at the same time from the one burner switch...but very slowly.
I 've had everything apart and aside from being very greasy and scummy there is no obvious bad connections. Could use more details on how to check the fuses and element harnesses. All of the switches have 6 terminals compared to the 5 I've seen on most replacemnets.
i am a diy hack stuff kind of guy. I want to take my 1965 old school hard-wired electric coil-type heating element cooktop and change over to haliant type burners (enclosing the circle holes with heat tempered glass) because I like the look but not the cooling time of the older coil type. I am sure i can do it but what is a good starting place to research wiring and switches to get proper parts and amperage? would I be better-off to sink a new coil-type instead under the glass surfaces?
My original burner only has one connecting tab on the left side. All the replacement burners I see have two like the one in your video at 3:58. I see that you're only testing the bottom connector with your multimeter. Is there a way for me to get a newer burner to work somehow even though I only have one connecting tab? Maybe by splitting the one wire into two? I have no idea.
Interesting, what is the model number?
@@applianceassistant The cooktop cartridge is the JDXR50. The 8" heating element is WB30X5116.
P.S...the burner controls have 5 positions...off, low, low/medium, medium, medium/high, and high. They are all mounted across the front of the stove so they should be pretty easy to access. Thanks
My elements is malfunctioning on the front burner. It is burning my food no madder how low or high it is.
Sound like the controller switch is shorted closed. In most cases replacing the switch will fix it. Good luck!
Thanks so much! I had just bought a used electric range, and some things weren't working. I thought I was only getting 120 to the oven, and after watching your video I was sure of it. I went and bought a multi-meter and confirmed that was the problem! Many thanks!
Any reason two burner controls would be operating the wrong burner? And I have an electric burner that only works on high. So strange.
Excellent explanation
one other question... my kenmore right front burner would come on to high then go clear off. changed the switch still does the same thing? anything else i am missing?
Is it safe to use cooktop element if small parts of the outer ring have broken off? We ordered a replacement element and part of the ring broke off when we received it.
wow ... Excellent video! well done!!! ... looking forward to more
I have a westinghouse glass top stove, for the kind of cooking I do, can I disable the temperature limiter? will it be totally unsafe? and can I replace a 2100W element with one 2500-3000W? Thank you very much for your time.
Question. My issue with my JBS55DM2WW : 8" heating element won't heat. Opened up the glass top and saw that a blue wire appears burnt and has disconnected from the crimp spade. Can I simply buy a new crimp spade connector at big box store and fix? Do I need a special stove/oven rated spade connector?
Most online appliance store don't have the wiring harness for sale, and I don't believe I need an entire new harness; just the one bad wire that came off, right?
That should work just fine! Just use good materials and make sure you have a good crimp and you should be fine. I look at it this way... the factory crimp failed, so you can’t do any worse... ; )
Hi, I like your video as my glass top range is going to some problem.
The problem "I have Glass top range, one of its Burner shuts off early not reaching the desired heat and that is the bigger burner we use most." Need your assistance to fix this.
Thanks
Hmmm... that is a little strange. Does it come back on after it cycles off? Or does it just stay off? What is your range model number?
Thanks for this great video.
Thank you for the guidance.
Hi applicantassistant. I have a whirlpool gold and my electric burner stopped working but the bridge burner work that is located right beside it. Do i need to change the element since the bridge works or could it be the infinite switch?
Not sure why I missed you post... I hope you have it figured out, but if not, it could be ether the element or the switch. Just treat the second part of the burner like a separate element... the switch will have two sets of out puts for each coil in the element, so you can check it in the way I show on the video. You can also check the wires from the element in question for resistance with a meter, if it shows as open then the element is bad. Hope that helps... you or someone... Thanks for your question!