Wow, looks really great. Good job on the video too. Was really soothing to watch. I looked up the price for a gallon of this stuff is only $62 at Walmart. I was looking at crazy seal, but got a quote of over $2k doing it myself. I know there are levels to this roofing thing. But this seems like a more viable solution for me right now. Thanks a million!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a 1997 class C motorhome with a roof that looks very similar to yours before the sealing and coating, and your advice on products and applications are appreciated.
Looks good. Nicely done. That should help prevent future problems. Your slide out cover does indeed need help. You can see how water collect there. You’re off to a great start.
Just a thought here. I used a different elastomeric coating. However most leaks come from the edge where the rubber roof bends over to the drip edge. Water leaks through there and down the outside of the wall leading to soft spots on the floor. You don’t see it leaking and yet it is and causing damage. I washed my roof with the “Reliable One”, then used alcohol on the edges and then applied a 4” Dicor tape with a cloth backing along the edges full length. The cloth backing is then coated with the roof coating while doing the whole roof. Did 3 coats. We have had some bad rain storms here and this combination of steps has proven itself to be worth the effort. Also used self leveling caulk on all openings. It’s an inexpensive way to get more time from a worn roof.
I started the same project on my 1989 Damon Escaper 27' Class C this morning. My roof is in pretty decent shape for being 30 years old. I found a couple of small holes and I will be sealing up around the vents, etc. I am also going to be using the Heng's Rubber Roof Coating. I think the key is to not fall off the roof.
I got a 2000 Bounder 39Z that I need to seal the roof bad. Weather in Washington is getting a bit more wet. Thanks for the video. I have some damage I need to fix on long the edge where the roof wraps down the side.
Guess what? I'm working up on the RV roof even today....replacing the AC unit....and I'm wearing a Flyers T-Shirt! So stay tuned for that upcoming video....and go Flyers!
I work on these for a living. The proper way is to remove the old sealer best as possible and replace with new dicor sealer. The best way to do front and rear cap is to use the bear Bond tape or other rubber roof tape. I'd prefer using the tape over the cocking wherever possible seals a lot better and a lot cleaner job. Either or we'll do the job but I recommend trying to remove the old sealer first.
Use a good quality putty knife remove as much as you can and as smooth as you can. What you can't remove take a good wire brush and scuff it up and go over it with the dicor. It's not as bad as it might look goes pretty quick. Be careful along the edges for it is self-leveling and will follow down the sides. It's not a quick job but it's painless. From the factory my opinion they don't apply enough dicor so I would apply a little extra when putting back. Have a good day and happy seal ing.
So Rob, ir you are refinishing a roof from a 20 year old motorhome, would you seal the caps with a permabond type tape and then roll on the new roof finish? Also, what about where the roof meets the sides of the RV? Is that a different sealer? You have been very helpful and encouraging. Thanks
The videos put out by Dicor themselves show them applying it directly over the old sealant. As long as it isnt peeling off, they recommend cleaning it and applying their product directly over the old.
For those of you contemplating a similar project, I would say it took me 3 hours to clean the roof, about an hour to do the Dicor Self Leveling Lap sealant around the vents and misc, 1 hour to apply coating with a brush around the edges and vents, and another hour to roll the two coats. Once you start rolling, it goes fast. So total time was about 6 hours over two days. I used an electric power washer to clean the roof, and then a RV long handled brush to bucket wash it. I did NOT use a dry detergent like Tide powder, but I should have. I had already scrubbed it with Dawn Platinum and was too lazy to go do it again. My guess is Dawn is not recommended because it is not the right kind of detergent. The Dicor self-leveling lap sealant is great. You will use about 1 tube per standard 14" vent. I had 4 tubes and it was not quite enough to do 3 vents plus the other smaller tank vents, etc. I would suggest doing the lap sealant a week before coating the roof if possible. I only waited 1 night, and it was fine, but still fairly soft. Some people say do the lap sealant after the coating has cured, but that seems backward to me. Either way is probably fine.
Dawn may not be recommended because it contains polymers (copolymers) that could affect the coating's ability to bond with the roof material. The powdered dry detergent probably doesn't have this problem. Use the powdered detergent.
I use a 50/50 mixture of bleach and purple power.. it removes everything, even old crusty roofing.. I even use it on the sides.. it will discolor old plastic stripes.. but, you don't have to scrub nothing...and your new sealant has a clean surface to bond to..
My 2001 31W Bounder has a TPO roof. This Summer 2021, I gave it two thick coats of Henry Tropi-Cool. It took the entire 4.75 gal bucket. I also coated the exhaust vents and the shower skylight for protection and to reduce the heat coming through. One month later I was hit with a 30 minute quarter-sized hail storm that shredded the topper awnings, broke the exhaust vent lid in the kitchen (smoke colored translucent plastic, the white one in the bathroom with Tropi-Cool coating survived), and cracked the shower skylight. The AC covers would have shattered but I replaced them when I coated the roof so they were fine. The roof has some significant dimples, but the Henry coating saved my roof from tears. There are a few 1/8 inch "chips" taken out of the top coating layer I guess due to the hail not being smooth balls, so just in case I plan to coat with one more layer of Henry Tropi-Cool. With the awnings off, I also coated the slider tops. Without the awnings I got water soaking the carpet in the RV at one corner of the open living room slider. To "fix" the skylight, I just lathered on thick coatings of Tropi-Cool over the cracks hoping that I will not have to replace the skylight.
Thanks for the lead on the product you used. I have a friend that is looking to do a similar project. I also want to share my experience changing my slide out toppers. I personally had a very good experience with Tough Toppers out of Washington state. Their material is way thicker than the original Dometic material. Don't stress over the work, its really easy once you know what your doing (my second one went way better than the first). It'll probably cost you $130-$160 depending on actual size. Cheers.
Thanks, Stephen, for the note, and for the good lead. Yes, I still need to replace the slide out topper. I will search online for Tough Toppers. Thanks so much.
I've read most of the comments, and most Google Reviews as well, and this Product seems to have about a 95% Good Rating, I Just Ordered 3 Gallons for our 35ft, " 30sq Ft Roof " 99 F53 Fleetwood Flair. It seems to good to be True, and you know what is said about That, but I'm rolling The Dice, as This thing is going down the Road after this Year, so If it Holds up 1 Year, then I'll be completely Happy, even if I Have to give it 1 Re Coat Goodbye...lol I Have Dicor Lap Sealant for The Seams, and Rounded Edges ETC, But I Am Really Thinking about using 4" Eterna Bond on Both Sides and The Termination Caps, along with 1 small Hole near the Skylight. So, just verifying some remarks, you only powerwashed this roof, with no scrubbing with powdered Tide ETC and it did not peel B4 you Switched over ? I know you said you switched because of seeming to have to re seal every year, but why ? Was it thin looking, with the black showing through, or what was the issue ? Thanks Kevin
I don't remember scrubbing the roof at all, just pressure washing. The original coating was pretty much all gone anyway. And I was in a hurry to get this done before winter, as it was already December. I think I had to recoat every year Spring because after a year in the elements it looked all dirty and discolored, sort of like a flat finish paint that shows all dirt marks. But I think that between the dicor sealant, the 4-inch tape, and the Heng's, your roof will be dry and nice and good to go! Some people confuse the Heng's with Henry's (available at home depot), but they are completely different products. In the end, I'm glad I switched over to the FlexSeal liquid rubber. Way better, and no more annual recoating. But of course, a lot more expensive. Good luck.
Did you have any of the old stuff flaked up everywhere ? I'm just starting into this, and MAN I HAVE A MESS, I've been scraping, using a Wire Brush ETC, this thing is REALLY BAD.
Hi I have a 97 jayco eagle I was wondering what how long yours is, how many cans you purchased or used and how it's holding up to years later? Thank you for your time
Great job. I'm seeing this 5 years later, so I have to ask how the heng's has held up for you over time. Would you still recommend the product for someone shopping today?
My concern with siliconized and liquid rubber applied directly to another rubber based product is that it will just peel off; that, maybe water can find a way between rubbers. I wonder if a water based elastomeric coating followed by the rubber coating like you show would work much longer?
So for how long have you been using the RV Roof Magic? My 2000 Terry TT has the Alpha roof and the RV Roof Magic is one coat, no primer needed. The Liquid Roof product requires the primer on an Alpha roof, which would be nice to not have to do, so I'd like to know if Th Roof Magic really lasts for, say, 5 years or better. Thanks.
Coating the clean black rubber is okay?? Mine is in perfect shape but completely black rubber..they told me you cant seal over the bare black it needs a new roof..
I hope you have better luck with the Heng's than I did! After about a year & a half it started peeling off my roof! I have a 2000 Bounder & just spent 2 days power washing & scraping that crap off! I'm going with Dicor EPDM 2 step system this time. Darn Heng's sure caused a lot of work for me!
I think originally I used Heng's because I did not have time for a 2-step process. I wanted to coat the roof quickly and without delay. 6 months later, I re-coated the roof again with Heng's. I will probably re-coat it on a yearly basis. The reality is that an RV roof requires regular maintenance. Let me know how you make out with the Dicor. Thank you.
After a lot of research, I'm gong with rvroofmagic which is a one coat coating guaranteed to be good over any type of roof including the Fleetwood Alpha roof that my 2000 Terry travel trailer has. The other very good product is Proguard Liquid Roof, but that requires their special (and expensive) primer on an Alpha roof, which means working within a tight application window. Hoping the 10 year warranty means something on the roof magic...lol
I used the two step Dicore system. Following all directions closely after 3 month 90% of it peeled off. I'm going to try this Heng product and see if it sticks.
Just ordered this!! Will it seal the roof? We do not have any leaks but our RV is over 20 years old and I want to make sure we do not have that problem. Thanks for all the DIY videos You have posted!
Be sure to use the self-leveling sealant around all the protrusions through the roof, or at least check to make sure the existing sealant is still in good shape.
Excellent video. Just purchased a 1999 Fleetwood Tioga 29Z. While the roof does seem solid, it has leaked around the skylight. The previous owners put a variety of tape sealants over most of the edges and caps. It really is a mess up there. Although the original roof is white, there isn't any white left. Its all black and chalky. Plus there were some small rips in the membrane. I've been trying to convince myself that I could get away with a roof coating. But as I'm typing this I realize that that isn't going to work. I'll need to install a new membrane. Any suggestions you have for products and hints to get this accomplished would be most welcome.
Thanks for the note. I did not have to go to the extreme of replacing the entire rubber roof. Since making this video, I have switched over to Flex-Seal liquid rubber coating. With the Heng's, I felt like I had to re-coat the roof every year.
Why did you have to re-apply it every year? Was it because the black would bleed through?? Did the Hengs stay securely attached?? Fixin to do all this myself as my roof is completely black now. Zero white left on it!
@@marvinelvis2989 not sure if my previous reply went through. I ended up completely redoing my roof. The membrane was in such bad shape. I also had no idea what products the previous owners had used. Some coatings will stick to some products and not to others. For Peace of Mind I went right to the decking and started from scratch. It was easier to do than I anticipated. The old membrane came up VERY easy. Which told me the glue that was holding it down was degraded. I did it all by myself, which (if you're considering replacing the membrane) I DO NOT recommend. I also went ahead and replaced all the trim with . As the original trim didn't have gutters. You can see all the work I did on my channel. Also feel free to reach out with any questions.
Im about to buy my first camper and the people told me it does need new roof coating, so i looked up the hengs coating your are talking about and there are so many, which should i get exactly?
I have a link in the description where you can find the exact product I used. Since making the video, I have recoated it twice. I re-coat it each Spring. But yes, there is a lot of products on the market. I used Heng's because it was a one-step process...no prime coat required. Just clean your roof, let it dry, and apply the Heng's. So for me, that's what I chose to use. Good luck.
I have a 2008 weekend warrior and I'm not sure if it has ever been recoated.. I have noticed some cracking in the rubber, along the edges where the top rubber meets the side trim. Should I tape along all edges before I paint? Or, should the rubberized paint seal these cracks pretty well?
I would recommend some kind of sealant, like the Dicor self-leveling roof sealant or other type of caulk. I don't think the Heng's alone would seal those seams sufficiently.
I did this job in December. Come Spring, I re-coated it. That was a year ago. Today it is still nice and dry. I have had no leaks. But I think it is the kind of product that should be re-coat every year or so. Good luck.
I used 1.5 gallons of Heng's Rubber Roof Coating to give my 27' Class C two coats. The directions on the paint can say to use a mixture of strong powdered detergent (e.g. Tide) and water and scrub the surface and rinse well. The can says to allow 4 hours between coats -- that was about right for a sunny day about 78F with 35% humidity. Normally it is much more humid in Iowa , but I got lucky.
Hey, thanks for the report. Sounds like the weather was perfect for the job. As you may recall from the video, I did my roof job in December (in NJ). Not ideal, but I had to get it done.
@@mtemp208 It may have reached 50 degrees as a high that day, but surely it was not that warm continually over a 24 hour period. I knew the can said 50 degree minimum, but I decided that the urgency of my situation was more important and I simply had to do the job without delay.
No. To this day, I've never had any problems like that. I will say, however, that two seasons ago, I switched over to Flex Seal liquid rubber. That has worked out better for me. With the Heng's I felt like I had to recoat every Springtime. Hey, thanks for the music, Sammy!
how is your roof holding up with that product so far? one thing i would add is that the black from bare rubber comes off and gets everywhere so wear gloves and clean shoes afterwards.
If you check out some of my other RV videos, you'll see I switched over to FlexSeal Liquid Rubber. I like it a lot better. With the Heng's I felt like I had to re-coat the roof every year! But my roof has been completely leak-free since I did this job.
@@Buckwsr i just bought a 5 gal bucket of henry 887 from home depot for $380 that was recomended by a local rv repair man, if it dont work ill change to flexseal.
Thanks for the note. It's been over a year since I did this job, and everything is still completely dry inside my RV. The roof coating is not nearly as white and bright as when originally applied....it has gotten a bit dirty. But most importantly, it has sealed the roof and kept the water out!
@@Buckwsr I am getting ready to do my 1994 Bounder, the roof looks the same (black rubber) and I am in AZ. So heat and long hr of sun, so color fading is not an issue, has it pealed and were, was Heng's worth the investment.
@@danafisher3806 Dana, my roof is still nice and dry. I recently re-coated with Heng's. For one thing, since I do not cover my RV over the winter...or ever...the rooftop looked pretty dirty. So I cleaned it with soap, water, and a scrub brush, and then recoated with Heng's. Should be good to go for another year.
Planning to do this on my 25 foot trailer…. Purchased 2 gallons. Want to cut in twice and do 2 coats overall. Now seeing this I’m hoping for 3 coats…. I’ll report back.
Two gallons was enough for me do 3 coats on 25 ft roof and two coats on my single width slide out. Great product and roof is bright white and looks like new
The black on my roof was not powder, but the rubber roof itself, as all the coating had weathered away. I cleaned the roof with a pressure washer before I applied the roof coating.
Good description of doing the job- But i wonder now a year and a half since you did it, ? does it leak. I could not see any signs of cleaning the joints before applying sealant. ??
The roof has held up great since I did this job...no leaks ever.... However, I have re-coated it annually. Unlike a house, I think RV roofs require on-going attention and maintenance....
Great video and instruction! This is exactly how my 2000 Discovery 37V looks. The black on mine is now powdery and gets all over you when you are on the roof. Was yours doing this? Is this black powder what I am to wash off before coating mine? I am worried if even after I was it if it turns powdery again this won't stick. Any advice? Thank you!
I don't remember any black residue or powder. You need to clean the roof first. Maybe pressure wash it. or scrub brush and detergent. Rinse well and let it dry for a few days. Seal around all protrusions. Then you're read to paint on the roof coating. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr when you started the 2nd coat I saw your knees were good and black. My 95 C class gets me black everytime I go up there. I am prepping to do my roof. How many gallons did you use? What kind of knap on that roller? Did you bag the roller in-between or just start with a new roller?
Well COVID took me out for 11 months last year. I did get my awnings done. The rain has finally let up here, and I’m getting ready to get this done. I’m gonna go with the Flex Seal. Your roof looks just like mine, the wear and color. Every time I go to clean it, this black water keeps running off. Is there a product that’ll clean it better. It’s almost like black chalk. Or do I have to keep scrubbing with dish soap or Purple Power it until it finally is clean? 6:11
I don't know really about how much scrubbing to do. For me it was December, and I was up against the cold weather. I think I gave it pressure washing, let it dry, and then applied the coating.
@@Buckwsr Hmm. Im kinda racing the warm up. Were getting into the 70’s now. I guess I could just give it a good cleaning, let it dry, and coat it. Again. Thanks for the video
This is one of the best looking jobs I've seen on TH-cam. I've got a 39' class A with a TPO BrightTec and it needs replacing or coating with something like this. I haven't heard of this grade Hengs before. How is it holding up so far. Again, it looks really good, very uniform and not splotchy like some I've seen. Thanks for posting this.
I did this job last december. Now, in August, roof remains completely dry and without leaks. I did recently paint on another coat of the Hengs since I havdenough left in the can to give it another coat. So.... so far, so good. Thanks for the note.
@@deanrising6577 I used a little more than 2 gallons, I believe, in putting on two coats of the product. I had purchased 3 gallons. 6 month after doing this job, I used what was left of that third gallon to put on one more coat.
@@Buckwsr After inspecting my roof for what I thought was an air pocket under the TPO roof turned out to be buckled plywood. After opening it up to see if I could maybe just patch in a piece of plywood, glue the roof membrane back down and use a liquid product like you did I found the damage went around the rear a/c on 3 sides, so now I'm in the early stages of taking off the entire roof. Only a few items left to remove(had 14 items which must come off before removing the 9 sheets of plywood), then the termination bars and plywood. At 16 years old it didn't make sense to do a partial re-roofing job on the coach. What fun!
I’m doing 2 coats on a 37’ 5th wheel roof. Planning to do Flex Seal, as we used Henry’s last year & it didn’t hold up well at all. How much do you think it should it take? Your video was very helpful - thank you!
I also transitioned over to the Flex-Seal. I felt like with the Heng's I had to recoat every year, and that's just too much work. You will need a lot of the flex-seal as the coverage is only like 80 square feet per gallon....it's liquid rubber, not paint...and it will cost you a good bit, too.
Yeah, we used Henry's last year - by this summer it was peeling off & pretty worthless. I think it's worth the money to get a good seal & prevent leaks, as well as to have one that lasts longer. Thanks for the input!
After a few years of feeling like I had to reapply the Heng's every Springtime, I decided to switch to Flex Seal Liquid Rubber. That's a much better product, and I'm glad I made the switch. I have another video on that, too, I think. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr Thank you. That was going to be my next question. Is Flex Seal a good product? I will look for your video and decide if this is the right way to go. Thanks again.
Does Heng’s rubber roof sealant prevent condensation on the inside of the trailer roof? My aluminum roof trailer has lots of condensation inside especially in the mornings.
It will not help.. the moisture inside your trailer is what's forming on the inside of the cold metal. Much as an AC evaporater, sweats and makes water when cooling.. a dehumidifier, will help some..
And if you are using propane heat, I don't think you will get any help from a dehumidifier.. we have a horse trailer with living quarters in it.. the uninsulated metal roof, sweats like a rain storm in cold weather..
TSP Trisodium Phosphate in a bucket of water works great as a non-filming easily rinsed cleaner with a soft carwash brush, but I didn't have any mold being in the AZ desert. Power washing could damage the roof and drive water where you don't want it, so I just used a low pressure rinse. I used Henry Tropi-Cool on a TPO roof.
How did that sealer do did it fix the leaks I want to try it on mine just bought a 2000 coachmen they said had no leaks but just had a real good rain and found 2 leaks
It seemed like I had to re-coat the roof every year. I don't use a cover, so after sitting all winter, the roof was quite discolored and dirty. Last year I decided to try Flex-Seal. It turned out great, and I will not have to recoat the roof this Spring, I can promise you that.
You don't show any cleaning step. Just curious, did you try to wash this roof before sealant? If not, has there been any delamination of the sealant? Normally, surface prep is the key to good adhesion.
I actually pressure washed the roof a day or two before applying the roof coating. I also applied the lap sealant at all seams and protrusions, but I wasn't able to film much of that either. Thank you for watching the video. The roof has held up well, but I have re-coated it each year since making the video.
I see so many reviews that Heng's will peel on this rubber roof without a primer first. You stated in comments that you already recoated the roof again. Was it peeling? Why did you need to recoat? I'm thinking of going with the 2 part system from EPDM Coatings. I want it to last years so I keep watching reviews. Obviously Heng's is less expensive but some of the peeling issues are just terrible.
My roof looks similar to yours and I am about to do the same project. My question to you is: Did you wash the roof before applying the white coating? The rubber of my roof is showing (black) and i noticed it turns my fingers black when i touch it. Did you have this same problem? If so, did you wash it down?
Theres not a nice wash to remove that old mold ? I think paint in the top of the old mold is gonna be good fpr maybe one year, after that mold is gonna explote again.looks a good job on the reseal,but maybe with a nice wash first can be a better job.by the way thanks for share.
I absolutely washed the roof thoroughly first! The black color is not mold, but the original rubber roof. Most of the previous coating was completely gone....
I use, 50/50 mixture of purple power and bleach. I spray it on a dry area, and scrub the loose black powder off with a brush.. I then power wash... Keep the sides rinsed, as that stuff can lighten your pin stripes, if allowed to dry on it.. any water, weakens this stuffs ability to work.. I mix it in a pump up chemical sprayer.. it kills all mold, and leaves a squeaky clean surface for the new roof to adhere to.. it is a killer mixture for removing the crud....
I think I bought it from an ebay seller....but it wasn't cheap. And the cans were just thrown into the box with pretty much NO packing material. I think they got all dented up during shipping.
I bought four cans from this guy in Hazleton PA. If I recall, he sold them for about $35 a gallon. They were discounted as they were dented cans and came shipped in a cardboard box, each gallon was in its own separate plastic bag to prevent leaks. No problem whatsoever with my order.
Bought 2 cans from Amazon $65 per gallon can for Hengs. I got dented cans with no packaging. Can’t believe they did not leak. My local RV dealer wanted $115 per can of Hengs!
@@Buckwsr Wow... You are fast... reply... Thank you so much... disregard my other question I just asked... You have already answered it... Thank YOU so much
It looks Great! I have the Heng's coating and hope to apply it this weekend. Did you only brush 1 coat on the edges? A thick single coat? Or did you second coat the edges when you did the overall 2nd coat?
Wow, looks really great. Good job on the video too. Was really soothing to watch. I looked up the price for a gallon of this stuff is only $62 at Walmart. I was looking at crazy seal, but got a quote of over $2k doing it myself. I know there are levels to this roofing thing. But this seems like a more viable solution for me right now. Thanks a million!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a 1997 class C motorhome with a roof that looks very similar to yours before the sealing and coating, and your advice on products and applications are appreciated.
Looks good. Nicely done. That should help prevent future problems. Your slide out cover does indeed need help. You can see how water collect there. You’re off to a great start.
Thank you, Glenn!
Nice job! Just watched your video while waiting for my first coat to dry. 👍
Just a thought here. I used a different elastomeric coating. However most leaks come from the edge where the rubber roof bends over to the drip edge. Water leaks through there and down the outside of the wall leading to soft spots on the floor. You don’t see it leaking and yet it is and causing damage. I washed my roof with the “Reliable One”, then used alcohol on the edges and then applied a 4” Dicor tape with a cloth backing along the edges full length. The cloth backing is then coated with the roof coating while doing the whole roof. Did 3 coats. We have had some bad rain storms here and this combination of steps has proven itself to be worth the effort. Also used self leveling caulk on all openings. It’s an inexpensive way to get more time from a worn roof.
Thanks, Charles. Good info and tips!
I started the same project on my 1989 Damon Escaper 27' Class C this morning. My roof is in pretty decent shape for being 30 years old. I found a couple of small holes and I will be sealing up around the vents, etc. I am also going to be using the Heng's Rubber Roof Coating. I think the key is to not fall off the roof.
Good luck with the project. And please don't fall off!!!
I got a 2000 Bounder 39Z that I need to seal the roof bad. Weather in Washington is getting a bit more wet. Thanks for the video. I have some damage I need to fix on long the edge where the roof wraps down the side.
Thank you for the video it really helped..just finished doing my 24ft toy box.
Great video. I will definitely be doing this to my Trailer.!
Thank you.
Nice Job on the roof - looks great !! No one mentioned the awesome Philadelphia Flyers Jacket you were wearing. Go Flyers ! !
Guess what? I'm working up on the RV roof even today....replacing the AC unit....and I'm wearing a Flyers T-Shirt! So stay tuned for that upcoming video....and go Flyers!
Good old days of starter jackets! My brother had the flyers/I had the Kelly green eagles
I appreciate the fine clip. You did well and it looks great. My congratulations on a job well done.
Thank you!
thanks for this. I just bought an RV. I didn't get a chance to inspect the roof when I bought it. thankfully, it never leaked.
Good luck, and enjoy your RV!
Ha! Just read the intro. I’m a lefty too. My guitar teacher was right handed so that’s how I learned. Couldn’t play left handed to save my life. 😂😅
I work on these for a living. The proper way is to remove the old sealer best as possible and replace with new dicor sealer. The best way to do front and rear cap is to use the bear Bond tape or other rubber roof tape. I'd prefer using the tape over the cocking wherever possible seals a lot better and a lot cleaner job. Either or we'll do the job but I recommend trying to remove the old sealer first.
Thank you for the good recommendations.
Rob Warga How do you recommend removing the old sealer? Some of that stuff is pretty thick and I would worry about cutting the roofing.
Use a good quality putty knife remove as much as you can and as smooth as you can. What you can't remove take a good wire brush and scuff it up and go over it with the dicor. It's not as bad as it might look goes pretty quick. Be careful along the edges for it is self-leveling and will follow down the sides. It's not a quick job but it's painless. From the factory my opinion they don't apply enough dicor so I would apply a little extra when putting back. Have a good day and happy seal ing.
So Rob, ir you are refinishing a roof from a 20 year old motorhome, would you seal the caps with a permabond type tape and then roll on the new roof finish? Also, what about where the roof meets the sides of the RV? Is that a different sealer?
You have been very helpful and encouraging. Thanks
The videos put out by Dicor themselves show them applying it directly over the old sealant. As long as it isnt peeling off, they recommend cleaning it and applying their product directly over the old.
How has it held up since you applied it? I need to do mine this summer.
For those of you contemplating a similar project, I would say it took me 3 hours to clean the roof, about an hour to do the Dicor Self Leveling Lap sealant around the vents and misc, 1 hour to apply coating with a brush around the edges and vents, and another hour to roll the two coats. Once you start rolling, it goes fast. So total time was about 6 hours over two days. I used an electric power washer to clean the roof, and then a RV long handled brush to bucket wash it. I did NOT use a dry detergent like Tide powder, but I should have. I had already scrubbed it with Dawn Platinum and was too lazy to go do it again. My guess is Dawn is not recommended because it is not the right kind of detergent. The Dicor self-leveling lap sealant is great. You will use about 1 tube per standard 14" vent. I had 4 tubes and it was not quite enough to do 3 vents plus the other smaller tank vents, etc. I would suggest doing the lap sealant a week before coating the roof if possible. I only waited 1 night, and it was fine, but still fairly soft. Some people say do the lap sealant after the coating has cured, but that seems backward to me. Either way is probably fine.
Dawn may not be recommended because it contains polymers (copolymers) that could affect the coating's ability to bond with the roof material. The powdered dry detergent probably doesn't have this problem. Use the powdered detergent.
I use a 50/50 mixture of bleach and purple power.. it removes everything, even old crusty roofing.. I even use it on the sides.. it will discolor old plastic stripes.. but, you don't have to scrub nothing...and your new sealant has a clean surface to bond to..
My 2001 31W Bounder has a TPO roof. This Summer 2021, I gave it two thick coats of Henry Tropi-Cool. It took the entire 4.75 gal bucket. I also coated the exhaust vents and the shower skylight for protection and to reduce the heat coming through. One month later I was hit with a 30 minute quarter-sized hail storm that shredded the topper awnings, broke the exhaust vent lid in the kitchen (smoke colored translucent plastic, the white one in the bathroom with Tropi-Cool coating survived), and cracked the shower skylight. The AC covers would have shattered but I replaced them when I coated the roof so they were fine. The roof has some significant dimples, but the Henry coating saved my roof from tears. There are a few 1/8 inch "chips" taken out of the top coating layer I guess due to the hail not being smooth balls, so just in case I plan to coat with one more layer of Henry Tropi-Cool. With the awnings off, I also coated the slider tops. Without the awnings I got water soaking the carpet in the RV at one corner of the open living room slider. To "fix" the skylight, I just lathered on thick coatings of Tropi-Cool over the cracks hoping that I will not have to replace the skylight.
What an experience! Glad the damage was not beyond your ability to mend thing up. Good luck!
Going to be laying down mine today.
Just did this today on ours. Used white roll on flex seal. Hope it’s good stuff
Thanks for the lead on the product you used. I have a friend that is looking to do a similar project. I also want to share my experience changing my slide out toppers. I personally had a very good experience with Tough Toppers out of Washington state. Their material is way thicker than the original Dometic material. Don't stress over the work, its really easy once you know what your doing (my second one went way better than the first). It'll probably cost you $130-$160 depending on actual size. Cheers.
Thanks, Stephen, for the note, and for the good lead. Yes, I still need to replace the slide out topper. I will search online for Tough Toppers. Thanks so much.
@@Buckwsr I did the same for three slideouts on our motorhome. Very pleased with product and the staff at Tough Topper.
I've read most of the comments, and most Google Reviews as well, and this Product seems to have about a 95% Good Rating, I Just Ordered 3 Gallons for our 35ft, " 30sq Ft Roof " 99 F53 Fleetwood Flair. It seems to good to be True, and you know what is said about That, but I'm rolling The Dice, as This thing is going down the Road after this Year, so If it Holds up 1 Year, then I'll be completely Happy, even if I Have to give it 1 Re Coat Goodbye...lol
I Have Dicor Lap Sealant for The Seams, and Rounded Edges ETC, But I Am Really Thinking about using 4" Eterna Bond on Both Sides and The Termination Caps, along with 1 small Hole near the Skylight.
So, just verifying some remarks, you only powerwashed this roof, with no scrubbing with powdered Tide ETC and it did not peel B4 you Switched over ?
I know you said you switched because of seeming to have to re seal every year, but why ? Was it thin looking, with the black showing through, or what was the issue ?
Thanks
Kevin
I don't remember scrubbing the roof at all, just pressure washing. The original coating was pretty much all gone anyway. And I was in a hurry to get this done before winter, as it was already December. I think I had to recoat every year Spring because after a year in the elements it looked all dirty and discolored, sort of like a flat finish paint that shows all dirt marks. But I think that between the dicor sealant, the 4-inch tape, and the Heng's, your roof will be dry and nice and good to go! Some people confuse the Heng's with Henry's (available at home depot), but they are completely different products. In the end, I'm glad I switched over to the FlexSeal liquid rubber. Way better, and no more annual recoating. But of course, a lot more expensive. Good luck.
Did you have any of the old stuff flaked up everywhere ? I'm just starting into this, and MAN I HAVE A MESS, I've been scraping, using a Wire Brush ETC, this thing is REALLY BAD.
Great vid -- good classic guitar -- real renaissance man!
Cheers
Nice! Thank you.
Nice job! Just getting ready to do this to my '99 Jayco Eagle! :)
Sounds great. Good luck with it.
Hi I have a 97 jayco eagle I was wondering what how long yours is, how many cans you purchased or used and how it's holding up to years later? Thank you for your time
Thank you for the video, it really helped me, how many gallon did you used please?
Riding along in my automobile. I stopped to make a sandwich behind the driver's seat. Hey that white roof looks good.
Great job. I'm seeing this 5 years later, so I have to ask how the heng's has held up for you over time. Would you still recommend the product for someone shopping today?
Actually, I later upgraded to the Flex-Seal Liquid Rubber. Very happy with that decision.
great video and the tips for the oil brand tho
My concern with siliconized and liquid rubber applied directly to another rubber based product is that it will just peel off; that, maybe water can find a way between rubbers. I wonder if a water based elastomeric coating followed by the rubber coating like you show would work much longer?
Looks good.
Nice! Time for some solar panels.
Was that the second layer black rubber ? Mine has a white layer over black rubber membrane
Thank you.
we have used this but like the rvroofmagic better. goes on very thick and our shop has never had a call back on any units it was applied on
So for how long have you been using the RV Roof Magic? My 2000 Terry TT has the Alpha roof and the RV Roof Magic is one coat, no primer needed. The Liquid Roof product requires the primer on an Alpha roof, which would be nice to not have to do, so I'd like to know if Th Roof Magic really lasts for, say, 5 years or better. Thanks.
Coating the clean black rubber is okay??
Mine is in perfect shape but completely black rubber..they told me you cant seal over the bare black it needs a new roof..
How long is that motorhome and how many gallons of that roof coating did you use on it? Thank you
A wise man once told me. If you can roll a roof in socks you can do just about an!
I hope you have better luck with the Heng's than I did! After about a year & a half it started peeling off my roof! I have a 2000 Bounder & just spent 2 days power washing & scraping that crap off! I'm going with Dicor EPDM 2 step system this time. Darn Heng's sure caused a lot of work for me!
I think originally I used Heng's because I did not have time for a 2-step process. I wanted to coat the roof quickly and without delay. 6 months later, I re-coated the roof again with Heng's. I will probably re-coat it on a yearly basis. The reality is that an RV roof requires regular maintenance. Let me know how you make out with the Dicor. Thank you.
After a lot of research, I'm gong with rvroofmagic which is a one coat coating guaranteed to be good over any type of roof including the Fleetwood Alpha roof that my 2000 Terry travel trailer has. The other very good product is Proguard Liquid Roof, but that requires their special (and expensive) primer on an Alpha roof, which means working within a tight application window. Hoping the 10 year warranty means something on the roof magic...lol
I used the two step Dicore system. Following all directions closely after 3 month 90% of it peeled off. I'm going to try this Heng product and see if it sticks.
How many gallons of hengs sealer did u use on this project
I used a little more than 2 gallons to two-coat the roof.
Buckwsr thankyou for responding got it
How long is your coach?
Robb Ward hi it’s a 30 ft 1995 sea breeze
Do you apply it on top of the existing rubber roof?
I watched because I thought the roof was blue 🤣 just the lighting in the video
Love those white socks!!
Just ordered this!! Will it seal the roof? We do not have any leaks but our RV is over 20 years old and I want to make sure we do not have that problem. Thanks for all the DIY videos You have posted!
Be sure to use the self-leveling sealant around all the protrusions through the roof, or at least check to make sure the existing sealant is still in good shape.
How has the Heng's held up for you? I am considering it as I like the simplicity of one part application.
Excellent video. Just purchased a 1999 Fleetwood Tioga 29Z. While the roof does seem solid, it has leaked around the skylight. The previous owners put a variety of tape sealants over most of the edges and caps. It really is a mess up there. Although the original roof is white, there isn't any white left. Its all black and chalky. Plus there were some small rips in the membrane. I've been trying to convince myself that I could get away with a roof coating. But as I'm typing this I realize that that isn't going to work. I'll need to install a new membrane. Any suggestions you have for products and hints to get this accomplished would be most welcome.
Thanks for the note. I did not have to go to the extreme of replacing the entire rubber roof. Since making this video, I have switched over to Flex-Seal liquid rubber coating. With the Heng's, I felt like I had to re-coat the roof every year.
Why did you have to re-apply it every year? Was it because the black would bleed through?? Did the Hengs stay securely attached??
Fixin to do all this myself as my roof is completely black now. Zero white left on it!
@@marvinelvis2989 not sure if my previous reply went through. I ended up completely redoing my roof. The membrane was in such bad shape. I also had no idea what products the previous owners had used. Some coatings will stick to some products and not to others. For Peace of Mind I went right to the decking and started from scratch. It was easier to do than I anticipated. The old membrane came up VERY easy. Which told me the glue that was holding it down was degraded. I did it all by myself, which (if you're considering replacing the membrane) I DO NOT recommend. I also went ahead and replaced all the trim with . As the original trim didn't have gutters. You can see all the work I did on my channel. Also feel free to reach out with any questions.
Im about to buy my first camper and the people told me it does need new roof coating, so i looked up the hengs coating your are talking about and there are so many, which should i get exactly?
I have a link in the description where you can find the exact product I used. Since making the video, I have recoated it twice. I re-coat it each Spring. But yes, there is a lot of products on the market. I used Heng's because it was a one-step process...no prime coat required. Just clean your roof, let it dry, and apply the Heng's. So for me, that's what I chose to use. Good luck.
I have a 2008 weekend warrior and I'm not sure if it has ever been recoated.. I have noticed some cracking in the rubber, along the edges where the top rubber meets the side trim.
Should I tape along all edges before I paint? Or, should the rubberized paint seal these cracks pretty well?
I would recommend some kind of sealant, like the Dicor self-leveling roof sealant or other type of caulk. I don't think the Heng's alone would seal those seams sufficiently.
How many gallons did it take
Buck, how has it held up? How many years and did you have to recoat?
If got a 1998 bounder 36s I need to do my roof and just wonder if you washed the roof first.
Yes. I actually had my pressure washer up there to clean it thoroughly.
Hi Buck. I'm about to redo the roof on my truck camper. I'm going to be using the same product. My question is. How is it holding up a year later?
I did this job in December. Come Spring, I re-coated it. That was a year ago. Today it is still nice and dry. I have had no leaks. But I think it is the kind of product that should be re-coat every year or so. Good luck.
Is this an epdm or tpo r
oof and does that matter? My roof is down to the black membrane also. It is epdm
I used 1.5 gallons of Heng's Rubber Roof Coating to give my 27' Class C two coats. The directions on the paint can say to use a mixture of strong powdered detergent (e.g. Tide) and water and scrub the surface and rinse well. The can says to allow 4 hours between coats -- that was about right for a sunny day about 78F with 35% humidity. Normally it is much more humid in Iowa , but I got lucky.
Hey, thanks for the report. Sounds like the weather was perfect for the job. As you may recall from the video, I did my roof job in December (in NJ). Not ideal, but I had to get it done.
@@Buckwsr what temp was it outside? The can says no go under 50 degs... we are around 54deg highs right now where i live
@@mtemp208 It may have reached 50 degrees as a high that day, but surely it was not that warm continually over a 24 hour period. I knew the can said 50 degree minimum, but I decided that the urgency of my situation was more important and I simply had to do the job without delay.
Did your roof bubble or blister after the coating dried? Mine was down the the black like yours and blistered.
No. To this day, I've never had any problems like that. I will say, however, that two seasons ago, I switched over to Flex Seal liquid rubber. That has worked out better for me. With the Heng's I felt like I had to recoat every Springtime. Hey, thanks for the music, Sammy!
Why not replace the rubber roof?
Is it elastomeric paint?
how is your roof holding up with that product so far? one thing i would add is that the black from bare rubber comes off and gets everywhere so wear gloves and clean shoes afterwards.
If you check out some of my other RV videos, you'll see I switched over to FlexSeal Liquid Rubber. I like it a lot better. With the Heng's I felt like I had to re-coat the roof every year! But my roof has been completely leak-free since I did this job.
@@Buckwsr i just bought a 5 gal bucket of henry 887 from home depot for $380 that was recomended by a local rv repair man, if it dont work ill change to flexseal.
How did this product hold up over time . I would like to see how it looks now??
Thanks for the note. It's been over a year since I did this job, and everything is still completely dry inside my RV. The roof coating is not nearly as white and bright as when originally applied....it has gotten a bit dirty. But most importantly, it has sealed the roof and kept the water out!
@@Buckwsr I am getting ready to do my 1994 Bounder, the roof looks the same (black rubber) and I am in AZ. So heat and long hr of sun, so color fading is not an issue, has it pealed and were, was Heng's worth the investment.
@@danafisher3806 Dana, my roof is still nice and dry. I recently re-coated with Heng's. For one thing, since I do not cover my RV over the winter...or ever...the rooftop looked pretty dirty. So I cleaned it with soap, water, and a scrub brush, and then recoated with Heng's. Should be good to go for another year.
@@Buckwsr thanks
Very good job 👏. Can you tell me how many 1gal cans it took to do your roof? I have a 30 foot RV. What's the full name if roof seal you used?
I did two coats on my 34 foot RV with about a gallon and a half of the Heng's Roof Coating.
I was going to ask the same question.
Planning to do this on my 25 foot trailer…. Purchased 2 gallons. Want to cut in twice and do 2 coats overall. Now seeing this I’m hoping for 3 coats…. I’ll report back.
Two gallons was enough for me do 3 coats on 25 ft roof and two coats on my single width slide out. Great product and roof is bright white and looks like new
How many Gallon did u used?
1.5 gallons worked to put on two coats.
How do you get the black powder off before you roll? Mine is EXACTLY like that but black powder gets alllll over
The black on my roof was not powder, but the rubber roof itself, as all the coating had weathered away. I cleaned the roof with a pressure washer before I applied the roof coating.
Good description of doing the job- But i wonder now a year and a half since you did it, ? does it leak. I could not see any signs of cleaning the joints before applying sealant. ??
The roof has held up great since I did this job...no leaks ever.... However, I have re-coated it annually. Unlike a house, I think RV roofs require on-going attention and maintenance....
Did you scrape off the old caulk & seals before re-caulking or did you just brush & clean the existing caulk & add your dicor over the existing?
I removed any caulk or sealant that was loose or peeling, but left any that was still solid and intact.
@@Buckwsr Thanks so much! That’s what I did.
Great video and instruction! This is exactly how my 2000 Discovery 37V looks. The black on mine is now powdery and gets all over you when you are on the roof. Was yours doing this? Is this black powder what I am to wash off before coating mine? I am worried if even after I was it if it turns powdery again this won't stick. Any advice? Thank you!
I don't remember any black residue or powder. You need to clean the roof first. Maybe pressure wash it. or scrub brush and detergent. Rinse well and let it dry for a few days. Seal around all protrusions. Then you're read to paint on the roof coating. Good luck.
I'm having same issue, major black powder even after power washing. Don't want to coat over it if won't bond. Any advice?
How did you clean powder before coating? Having same issue with my worn out black rubber roof. Tons of powder, even after power washing.
Chris Davies any luck with washing your roof I’m having same problem
@@Buckwsr when you started the 2nd coat I saw your knees were good and black. My 95 C class gets me black everytime I go up there. I am prepping to do my roof.
How many gallons did you use?
What kind of knap on that roller?
Did you bag the roller in-between or just start with a new roller?
Well COVID took me out for 11 months last year. I did get my awnings done. The rain has finally let up here, and I’m getting ready to get this done. I’m gonna go with the Flex Seal. Your roof looks just like mine, the wear and color. Every time I go to clean it, this black water keeps running off. Is there a product that’ll clean it better. It’s almost like black chalk. Or do I have to keep scrubbing with dish soap or Purple Power it until it finally is clean? 6:11
I don't know really about how much scrubbing to do. For me it was December, and I was up against the cold weather. I think I gave it pressure washing, let it dry, and then applied the coating.
@@Buckwsr Hmm. Im kinda racing the warm up. Were getting into the 70’s now. I guess I could just give it a good cleaning, let it dry, and coat it. Again. Thanks for the video
This is one of the best looking jobs I've seen on TH-cam. I've got a 39' class A with a TPO BrightTec and it needs replacing or coating with something like this. I haven't heard of this grade Hengs before. How is it holding up so far. Again, it looks really good, very uniform and not splotchy like some I've seen. Thanks for posting this.
I did this job last december. Now, in August, roof remains completely dry and without leaks. I did recently paint on another coat of the Hengs since I havdenough left in the can to give it another coat. So.... so far, so good. Thanks for the note.
Buckwsr... Was that all with only one gallon?
@@deanrising6577 I used a little more than 2 gallons, I believe, in putting on two coats of the product. I had purchased 3 gallons. 6 month after doing this job, I used what was left of that third gallon to put on one more coat.
@@Buckwsr After inspecting my roof for what I thought was an air pocket under the TPO roof turned out to be buckled plywood. After opening it up to see if I could maybe just patch in a piece of plywood, glue the roof membrane back down and use a liquid product like you did I found the damage went around the rear a/c on 3 sides, so now I'm in the early stages of taking off the entire roof. Only a few items left to remove(had 14 items which must come off before removing the 9 sheets of plywood), then the termination bars and plywood. At 16 years old it didn't make sense to do a partial re-roofing job on the coach. What fun!
Did you have to apply an activator before applying the final coating?
The Heng's product requires no activator. Just paint it on. That's why I chose to use it...I needed to get this job done in a hurry.
I’m doing 2 coats on a 37’ 5th wheel roof. Planning to do Flex Seal, as we used Henry’s last year & it didn’t hold up well at all. How much do you think it should it take? Your video was very helpful - thank you!
I also transitioned over to the Flex-Seal. I felt like with the Heng's I had to recoat every year, and that's just too much work. You will need a lot of the flex-seal as the coverage is only like 80 square feet per gallon....it's liquid rubber, not paint...and it will cost you a good bit, too.
Yeah, we used Henry's last year - by this summer it was peeling off & pretty worthless. I think it's worth the money to get a good seal & prevent leaks, as well as to have one that lasts longer. Thanks for the input!
After 4 years how did the coating hold up?
After a few years of feeling like I had to reapply the Heng's every Springtime, I decided to switch to Flex Seal Liquid Rubber. That's a much better product, and I'm glad I made the switch. I have another video on that, too, I think. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr Thank you. That was going to be my next question. Is Flex Seal a good product? I will look for your video and decide if this is the right way to go. Thanks again.
Does Heng’s rubber roof sealant prevent condensation on the inside of the trailer roof? My aluminum roof trailer has lots of condensation inside especially in the mornings.
I can't answer your questions, as I have never experienced the problem you're describing. Sorry, and good luck.
It will not help.. the moisture inside your trailer is what's forming on the inside of the cold metal. Much as an AC evaporater, sweats and makes water when cooling.. a dehumidifier, will help some..
And if you are using propane heat, I don't think you will get any help from a dehumidifier.. we have a horse trailer with living quarters in it.. the uninsulated metal roof, sweats like a rain storm in cold weather..
What did you use to clean the rubber roof before the sealants
I cleaned it with a pressure washer....had to be careful, though, because the roof was already leaking in places, so I tried not to go nuts with it.
Did the original roof blister? I’m deciding which product to use. Superior one step blistered on me.
The roof has help up nice in the year and a half since I did the job. I never encountered any blistering.
Getting ready to do this on my '93 Jamboree. Did you power wash it or use anything special to clean it first? Thanks!
I'm pretty sure I powerwashed the roof and let it dry. Then I sealed the protrusions with self-leveling sealant, prior to applying the Heng's coating.
TSP Trisodium Phosphate in a bucket of water works great as a non-filming easily rinsed cleaner with a soft carwash brush, but I didn't have any mold being in the AZ desert. Power washing could damage the roof and drive water where you don't want it, so I just used a low pressure rinse. I used Henry Tropi-Cool on a TPO roof.
Also did you use any sort of primer after cleaning?
I chose the Heng's because it is a one-step process, with no prime coat required. It was December, and time was of the essence.
I am interested in doing this project on my Bounder RV 36 feet,How many gallons would I need. In Canada Amazon they are available for $106 each.
Two gallons should be enough to put on two coats. Yikes, that price!
Thank you for doing this video, I really needed it. It will be three years in a few months, how did the Heng's hold up?
It is holding up very well, nice and dry. But I have recoated it since then, just to keep it well sealed and looking good.
How did that sealer do did it fix the leaks I want to try it on mine just bought a 2000 coachmen they said had no leaks but just had a real good rain and found 2 leaks
It's only been about 3 months, but so far perfectly dry, and we've had a fair amount of rain this winter, so I'm feeling pretty good about it.
How has it held up since the video
Really interested in this for mine
Great. nice and dry! But I did re-coat again this Spring.
@@Buckwsr glad it has worked out for you. A redcoat isn't a deal breaker for me. I just want my roof to last as long as it can
I’m needing to do this to my trailer. How that product holding up 5-6 years later?
It seemed like I had to re-coat the roof every year. I don't use a cover, so after sitting all winter, the roof was quite discolored and dirty. Last year I decided to try Flex-Seal. It turned out great, and I will not have to recoat the roof this Spring, I can promise you that.
Here's the link to my flex-seal video: th-cam.com/video/V3FtqLqjKRI/w-d-xo.html
@@Buckwsr Huh, I’ve heard not so good stuff about Flex Seal. I do a bit more research. Thank you.
@@Buckwsr Thank you. I’ll check it out.
You don't show any cleaning step. Just curious, did you try to wash this roof before sealant? If not, has there been any delamination of the sealant? Normally, surface prep is the key to good adhesion.
I actually pressure washed the roof a day or two before applying the roof coating. I also applied the lap sealant at all seams and protrusions, but I wasn't able to film much of that either. Thank you for watching the video. The roof has held up well, but I have re-coated it each year since making the video.
How many gallons did it take to do the full roof?
About a gallon and a half to do two coats.
I see so many reviews that Heng's will peel on this rubber roof without a primer first. You stated in comments that you already recoated the roof again. Was it peeling? Why did you need to recoat? I'm thinking of going with the 2 part system from EPDM Coatings. I want it to last years so I keep watching reviews. Obviously Heng's is less expensive but some of the peeling issues are just terrible.
No, mine never peeled to this day. I recoated mostly for additional protection and to make it look clean and white again. But it has never peeled.
How many cans of the hengs did you use for this ?
2 gallons was enough for two coats.
My roof looks similar to yours and I am about to do the same project. My question to you is: Did you wash the roof before applying the white coating? The rubber of my roof is showing (black) and i noticed it turns my fingers black when i touch it. Did you have this same problem? If so, did you wash it down?
Yes, absolutely wash it first, and let dry thoroughly.
Hi it’s 30 ft 95 sea breeze that is leaking at front
how many gallons did you use?
Less than 2 gallons to put on two coats.
"Thumbs UP"
Great job... Looks Beautiful
How is it holding up?
I got your fast reply..
Thank you so much..
How is it holding up today after 4 years
The roof is still fine, but I switched over to Flex Seal liquid rubber, a far better, longer lasting option.
@@Buckwsr want to do my roof? I live in utah
cleaning process before would be more interesting
How long is that motor home and how many gallons of rubber roof coating did you use?
2 gallons of the product were enough to put two coats on the roof of my 34 foot RV.
Did you clean the roof first?
Absolutely!
Theres not a nice wash to remove that old mold ? I think paint in the top of the old mold is gonna be good fpr maybe one year, after that mold is gonna explote again.looks a good job on the reseal,but maybe with a nice wash first can be a better job.by the way thanks for share.
I absolutely washed the roof thoroughly first! The black color is not mold, but the original rubber roof. Most of the previous coating was completely gone....
I use, 50/50 mixture of purple power and bleach. I spray it on a dry area, and scrub the loose black powder off with a brush.. I then power wash... Keep the sides rinsed, as that stuff can lighten your pin stripes, if allowed to dry on it.. any water, weakens this stuffs ability to work.. I mix it in a pump up chemical sprayer.. it kills all mold, and leaves a squeaky clean surface for the new roof to adhere to.. it is a killer mixture for removing the crud....
How long is your RV and how many buckets of Hengs did you use?
The RV is 34 feet long. I used about a gallon and a half to apply two coats.
@@Buckwsr Thanks for letting me know I have a 36 footer so I think 2 to 3 gallons should be more than enough. I enjoyed your video.
Great Job, want to do mine?
Did you wash your roof first?
Yes, I pressure washed it a few days earlier.
Did you get that Heng’s from the guy in Pennsylvania who sells dented cans, at a huge discount?
I think I bought it from an ebay seller....but it wasn't cheap. And the cans were just thrown into the box with pretty much NO packing material. I think they got all dented up during shipping.
I bought four cans from this guy in Hazleton PA. If I recall, he sold them for about $35 a gallon. They were discounted as they were dented cans and came shipped in a cardboard box, each gallon was in its own separate plastic bag to prevent leaks. No problem whatsoever with my order.
Bought 2 cans from Amazon $65 per gallon can for Hengs. I got dented cans with no packaging. Can’t believe they did not leak. My local RV dealer wanted $115 per can of Hengs!
Thx for the video. How many gallons did you use?
I bought two gallons, put on two coats, and have enough left over to re-coat in Spring, if I get around to it....
@@Buckwsr
How is it holding up?
I have a 1985 Pace Arrow I have to do...
Thank you for sharing this great video...
Very Helpful
@@JudiChristopher Holding up just fine. It's only been 5 months...I'd like to recoat it, now that it's Springtime, if I can get around to it....
@@Buckwsr
Wow... You are fast... reply...
Thank you so much...
disregard my other question I just asked...
You have already answered it...
Thank YOU so much
I believe you're supposed to clean the roof first
Of course. I actually pressure washed it before coating it.
It looks Great! I have the Heng's coating and hope to apply it this weekend. Did you only brush 1 coat on the edges? A thick single coat? Or did you second coat the edges when you did the overall 2nd coat?
I think I "cut in" twice with the brush before using the roller, if I remember correctly. Good luck! And thanks for watching the video.
How many gallons of the roof sealant did you use?
Two gallons allowed me to put on two coats, and have some left over.