Good evening maestro! I am in the process of overhauling my Jeep KJ 2.8 CRD 2003 engine. Inadvertently I turned the crankshaft without taking note of the timing! I don't know how to find the point of the engine without a reference. I searched and asked everywhere and didn't get a positive answer. can you help me please! Please, I'm a budding mechanic thank you in advance, one of your subscribers! I have no documentation, I'm struggling. thanks for the help
@@rogermulenga6295 hi Roger the assembly position for the crank and camshaft is 90 degrees past top dead center for cylinder 1. For the crank there is a mark on the Harmonic Balancer mounting flange. This should point 90 degrees to the right as you are facing it. Once you get it close, you need the alignment pins. There is a hole in the engine case on the passenger side of the vehicle that aligns the pin to the flywheel. The cam shafts are easy. There is a hole in each cam that allow you to pin them to the valve cover. Email me at daytonagrayghost@gmail.com and I can send pictures.
Ok now ,you have 2 valve per cylinder on of the rocker is off on the same cylinder and is suck a position that will not bind . You still have the click on the rotation from the properly seated rocker . I am not an expert on these engines just asking.
Very good question. I am still not 100% sure all the rockers are in place. I will do a compression check before I start the engine but even then, one of the valves might not be opening. I only hope that the cavity these sit in will not allow free operation if the rocker is off its perch. everything "feels" normal. I did try to use a borescope to look into the intake to see if I could verify that both valves were opening on each cylinder but could not see the valve seat, only the stem.
They have some type of dip tank. I had to go to several machine shops to find one that would do it. I guess the EPA frowns upon the use of these type of dip talks.
@@daytonagrayghost thank you for the quick answer. Did you remove the camshaft before or the whole pack went to the machine shop. Im thinking of cleaning mine with thinner and water or air pressure. I dont know if it could damage the camshaft so my guess is i should remove them. What do you think? Also great job making those video. Really helpful
It really depends on your local labor rate and what you choose to replace. It is always a good idea to at least replace the exhaust valves but I would recommend you replace everything in the head. Exhaust and intake valves, all the valve springs, valve guides and seals. It also depends on if you go with OEM head bolts or the upgraded APR studs. The cost can vary from 2 to 3K for a solid top end refresh.
@@daytonagrayghost I didn't replace any valves. I was told they would be ok. I researched to find some and not many intakes and few more exhaust. Any suggestions to find them available to purchase?
Keep going. Your subscription and likes will definitely accumulate. Excellent presentation!!
Good evening maestro! I am in the process of overhauling my Jeep KJ 2.8 CRD 2003 engine. Inadvertently I turned the crankshaft without taking note of the timing! I don't know how to find the point of the engine without a reference. I searched and asked everywhere and didn't get a positive answer. can you help me please! Please, I'm a budding mechanic
thank you in advance, one of your subscribers! I have no documentation, I'm struggling.
thanks for the help
@@rogermulenga6295 hi Roger the assembly position for the crank and camshaft is 90 degrees past top dead center for cylinder 1. For the crank there is a mark on the Harmonic Balancer mounting flange. This should point 90 degrees to the right as you are facing it. Once you get it close, you need the alignment pins. There is a hole in the engine case on the passenger side of the vehicle that aligns the pin to the flywheel. The cam shafts are easy. There is a hole in each cam that allow you to pin them to the valve cover. Email me at daytonagrayghost@gmail.com and I can send pictures.
th-cam.com/video/zViR0PDTfwA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pyjU--wwOEIlizEr
Im about to do this to my Liberty... very informative
Did you leave the cams in when you had the cover cleaned?
Buenas noches en este motor dónde va conectada la manguera q llega al hidrova
Ok now ,you have 2 valve per cylinder on of the rocker is off on the same cylinder and is suck a position that will not bind . You still have the click on the rotation from the properly seated rocker . I am not an expert on these engines just asking.
Very good question. I am still not 100% sure all the rockers are in place. I will do a compression check before I start the engine but even then, one of the valves might not be opening. I only hope that the cavity these sit in will not allow free operation if the rocker is off its perch. everything "feels" normal. I did try to use a borescope to look into the intake to see if I could verify that both valves were opening on each cylinder but could not see the valve seat, only the stem.
A very informative and well-made video, thank you. Do you have the IDParts part number for the camshaft index/lock tool?
Thank you! ID parts sells the cam tool as part of their timing belt service tool kit. The part number is simply: "IDPartsCRDToolKit"
Hello Jim Smith how did the machine shop cleaned the valve cover? thanks in advance. Im looking to clean mine.
They have some type of dip tank. I had to go to several machine shops to find one that would do it. I guess the EPA frowns upon the use of these type of dip talks.
@@daytonagrayghost thank you for the quick answer. Did you remove the camshaft before or the whole pack went to the machine shop. Im thinking of cleaning mine with thinner and water or air pressure. I dont know if it could damage the camshaft so my guess is i should remove them. What do you think? Also great job making those video. Really helpful
@@lordsamsam96 I removed the cams before sending them to be cleaned. I would suggest you do the same. The cleaning process will destroy the seals.
How much can I expect to spend on an upper rebuild?
It really depends on your local labor rate and what you choose to replace. It is always a good idea to at least replace the exhaust valves but I would recommend you replace everything in the head. Exhaust and intake valves, all the valve springs, valve guides and seals. It also depends on if you go with OEM head bolts or the upgraded APR studs. The cost can vary from 2 to 3K for a solid top end refresh.
@@daytonagrayghost I didn't replace any valves. I was told they would be ok. I researched to find some and not many intakes and few more exhaust. Any suggestions to find them available to purchase?
@@beinthenowmedia7638 ID parts sells both intake and exhaust valves.
@@daytonagrayghost nope all out when I checked last week!