What's your favourite 4g63 powered chassis? 🔵 Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/offery143 ✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery143 TIME STAMPS: 0:00 - Intro 3:15 - Crank walk 4:00 - What is it? 5:55 - Diagnosis 10:50 - What causes it? 15:45 - How do we fix it? 21:50 - Oil surge 22:20 - Dry sump 22:35 - Modified sump 24:45 - Free modifications to improve oil flow 27:25 - Balance shafts 33:15 - Oil grade and bearing clearance 35:15 - Questions
In the US 6 bolts in 1g dsm’s did not have walk issues it was 7 bolt engines in 2nd gen dsm’s that had the walk issues. Lots of 6 bolts were swapped into 2nd gen dsm’s.
Yes, thank you, DSM is not our domain sorry. Whatever generation was what for DSM models the knowledge remains the same on the technical side of things here for the issue/s and solutions🤘 - Taz.
We swapped in a Evo 4 engine sourced from Japan in our project car. Not even 200kms later it suffered from the dreaded crankwalk. Mitsu experts here told me to upgrade to an Evo 5 onwards block. I thought that was overkill, and plus Evo 5-up engines were twice the price. I went with a Hyundai G4JP block, which had its own set of complications but had the later thrust bearing design and was a veritable bargain to acquire. I had the engine rebuilt with a 4G64 crank and other fancy stuff, and my machine shop repairs the thrust washer surface of the block of all 4G63s they receive as a matter of standard procedure. To improve oiling, we put in a Kiggly restrictor and a Tomei baffle plate, just to be safe.
Evo 4 has the weakest design… I also got myself a G4JS.. I only wanted to bolt on a turbo and turn the boost up abit but can’t do that safely without the crank goin.. Did you use the block only with the G4JP? I’m gonna use the whole engine in me Evo 4
@@keifykat2647 G4JS is the 2.4 right? Basically a lot of the Evo 4 stuff we reused, including the head, but the timing belt side of these engines have some differences that would or would not matter much depending on your build. Not to make a shameless plug but I made a video on the G4JP/Evo 4 engine build we did for more info and maybe it will help.
I used an AMS bsr made from billet and either the shaft broke or the bolt backed out and got jammed into the rod/crank and windowed the block at 50 miles on a break in drive on my first 4G63 build.
The one attribute of a 4G63 is block and crank hardness. I've machined a lot of these engines, some of them we remove the balance shafts and plug the oil galleries, provided the complete rotating assembly is balanced again they still rev 8k quite easily.
I've built my 4g63 for my track evo project a while ago and it will go on the dyno next month. I've built it with a 4g64 stubby shaft kit which is mitsubishi oem. And i'm being honest my sleep has been worse eversince since i don't trust that solution regarding the support of the driven gear of the oil pump. I hope it will be ok but i guess i will just build a spare engine if this one becomes problematic due to oiling issues although i've considered literally everything else you had to mention in the practical engine building course at the time i built that thing:D
It's a hard one and even what we consider to be a 'perfect solution' still has some risk of going wrong or other tradeoffs. You can only do your best with what you have access to and what you know, that is just the nature of engines. I hope it all comes together nicely and you enjoy some time behind the wheel soon after all that work! - Taz.
@@hpa101 thanks for that i appreciate it and keep my fingers crossed:) the car has to do its proof of work on the Nordschleife which doesn't make the task of building something reliable from the get go easier tbh. Btw i really appreciate you for all the cofidence you gave me in doing stuff on my own meaning to build a complete car not only an engine. Took many of your courses and don't regret a single minute i payed for. Greetings from germany🤘🏼
Your slots on the thrust bearing are oil storages. But the way you did them means oil has to escape from the stock storages/passages (vertical) and be transported to your storages through the clearance. So you can't be sure your storages are well filled when there is not enough clearance. I think you should run your slots right from the vertical grooves in the direction lf the rotation. This would ensure a more reliable refill of the storages. Besides I've never understood why most of the stock thrust bearings have vertical and not horizontal grooves. Vertical is the worst configuration for a dry start-up. Interesting talk. Many engines have thrust bearing problems.
I have a really interesting question! @hpa101 what you think about cutting crankshaft girdle to have separate girdle caps to diminish tendency to break crank in half. We used to have a lot of broken stock crankshafts at around 700-800hp 9.5sec 1/4 no prep. Please let me know your opinion
I had the squirters and balancers deleted and my oil press is constantly up around 90 to 100 and ive been driving it with no issues for 3 years. Is this high pressure anything to be concerned with? I dont have a bb turbo
Is he saying that the Evo 4’s crank problem can be solved by machining a bigger hole & lighter clutch pressure plate? I haven’t heard of 400whp Evo 4 with stock block…
I would really be curious if there are recommendations for Evo rally cars, as this is a peculiar case. The engine is 100% stock, you have an air restrictor on the turbo inlet (32-34 mm) and almost all have antilag (ALS). I am assuming that oil temperature is through the roof. Other than running really thick engine oil (xxW50, or even 60), I dont see what else can be done.
Not a common solution (steel plates) but this Julian Godfrey interview touches on 4g63s with restrictor plates fitted and dealing with the cylinder pressures created at low boost because of that: www.hpacademy.com/blog/700lb-ft-and-43psi-at-4000rpm-4g63-head-cylinder-sealing-julian-godfrey-tech-talk/? - Taz.
Sure. Then you just deal with K20 or K24 issues. Every engine has its weak points. Some engines even have issues stock before you try and make any more power 😂 - Taz.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
What's your favourite 4g63 powered chassis?
🔵 Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/offery143
✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery143
TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Intro
3:15 - Crank walk
4:00 - What is it?
5:55 - Diagnosis
10:50 - What causes it?
15:45 - How do we fix it?
21:50 - Oil surge
22:20 - Dry sump
22:35 - Modified sump
24:45 - Free modifications to improve oil flow
27:25 - Balance shafts
33:15 - Oil grade and bearing clearance
35:15 - Questions
Claims he is an expert on the 4G63... shows previously built 4G63 projects that prove his knowledge far exceeds that of simply an expert. Holy moly
In the US 6 bolts in 1g dsm’s did not have walk issues it was 7 bolt engines in 2nd gen dsm’s that had the walk issues. Lots of 6 bolts were swapped into 2nd gen dsm’s.
Yes, thank you, DSM is not our domain sorry. Whatever generation was what for DSM models the knowledge remains the same on the technical side of things here for the issue/s and solutions🤘 - Taz.
I've seen a crank-walked 6 bolt. Unusual, but it happens.
Was it the Evo 4 blocks with the bearing and thrust washer built in
The 7 blocks and newer were separate thrust washers
Wht oil grade for 4g63t for stock factory
We swapped in a Evo 4 engine sourced from Japan in our project car. Not even 200kms later it suffered from the dreaded crankwalk. Mitsu experts here told me to upgrade to an Evo 5 onwards block. I thought that was overkill, and plus Evo 5-up engines were twice the price. I went with a Hyundai G4JP block, which had its own set of complications but had the later thrust bearing design and was a veritable bargain to acquire.
I had the engine rebuilt with a 4G64 crank and other fancy stuff, and my machine shop repairs the thrust washer surface of the block of all 4G63s they receive as a matter of standard procedure.
To improve oiling, we put in a Kiggly restrictor and a Tomei baffle plate, just to be safe.
Evo 4 has the weakest design… I also got myself a G4JS.. I only wanted to bolt on a turbo and turn the boost up abit but can’t do that safely without the crank goin..
Did you use the block only with the G4JP? I’m gonna use the whole engine in me Evo 4
@@keifykat2647 G4JS is the 2.4 right? Basically a lot of the Evo 4 stuff we reused, including the head, but the timing belt side of these engines have some differences that would or would not matter much depending on your build. Not to make a shameless plug but I made a video on the G4JP/Evo 4 engine build we did for more info and maybe it will help.
One solution is to not start it with the clutch depressed, Disable the clutch switch and most of the crankwalk will never occur 👍🏼
I used an AMS bsr made from billet and either the shaft broke or the bolt backed out and got jammed into the rod/crank and windowed the block at 50 miles on a break in drive on my first 4G63 build.
The one attribute of a 4G63 is block and crank hardness. I've machined a lot of these engines, some of them we remove the balance shafts and plug the oil galleries, provided the complete rotating assembly is balanced again they still rev 8k quite easily.
I do some chamfering and some side holes on bearings as squirters , kiggly was who adviced me on those improvements
I've built my 4g63 for my track evo project a while ago and it will go on the dyno next month. I've built it with a 4g64 stubby shaft kit which is mitsubishi oem. And i'm being honest my sleep has been worse eversince since i don't trust that solution regarding the support of the driven gear of the oil pump. I hope it will be ok but i guess i will just build a spare engine if this one becomes problematic due to oiling issues although i've considered literally everything else you had to mention in the practical engine building course at the time i built that thing:D
It's a hard one and even what we consider to be a 'perfect solution' still has some risk of going wrong or other tradeoffs. You can only do your best with what you have access to and what you know, that is just the nature of engines.
I hope it all comes together nicely and you enjoy some time behind the wheel soon after all that work! - Taz.
@@hpa101 thanks for that i appreciate it and keep my fingers crossed:) the car has to do its proof of work on the Nordschleife which doesn't make the task of building something reliable from the get go easier tbh. Btw i really appreciate you for all the cofidence you gave me in doing stuff on my own meaning to build a complete car not only an engine. Took many of your courses and don't regret a single minute i payed for. Greetings from germany🤘🏼
Your slots on the thrust bearing are oil storages. But the way you did them means oil has to escape from the stock storages/passages (vertical) and be transported to your storages through the clearance. So you can't be sure your storages are well filled when there is not enough clearance.
I think you should run your slots right from the vertical grooves in the direction lf the rotation. This would ensure a more reliable refill of the storages.
Besides I've never understood why most of the stock thrust bearings have vertical and not horizontal grooves. Vertical is the worst configuration for a dry start-up.
Interesting talk. Many engines have thrust bearing problems.
What do you think about people filling up the block with cement filler/epoxy or weld it making the block dry deck?
Great info. Can use some of this on the Toyota 2azfe engine as well.
Love you guys!
What kind of clearance for aluminum rods big end
I have a really interesting question! @hpa101
what you think about cutting crankshaft girdle to have separate girdle caps to diminish tendency to break crank in half. We used to have a lot of broken stock crankshafts at around 700-800hp 9.5sec 1/4 no prep.
Please let me know your opinion
I had the squirters and balancers deleted and my oil press is constantly up around 90 to 100 and ive been driving it with no issues for 3 years. Is this high pressure anything to be concerned with? I dont have a bb turbo
Is he saying that the Evo 4’s crank problem can be solved by machining a bigger hole & lighter clutch pressure plate? I haven’t heard of 400whp Evo 4 with stock block…
Why not a Infinite Evo sump setup?
I would really be curious if there are recommendations for Evo rally cars, as this is a peculiar case. The engine is 100% stock, you have an air restrictor on the turbo inlet (32-34 mm) and almost all have antilag (ALS). I am assuming that oil temperature is through the roof. Other than running really thick engine oil (xxW50, or even 60), I dont see what else can be done.
Not a common solution (steel plates) but this Julian Godfrey interview touches on 4g63s with restrictor plates fitted and dealing with the cylinder pressures created at low boost because of that: www.hpacademy.com/blog/700lb-ft-and-43psi-at-4000rpm-4g63-head-cylinder-sealing-julian-godfrey-tech-talk/? - Taz.
6 bolt 4g's ftw
my brain needs a rewire, i came here because i thought i saw 4age, not 4g63. Wrong engine! :(
Thailand
Thrust bearing location and oil lube is downfall of Evo 4 motors..
Easier fix! throw it away and simply build a K20 or K24.
Sure. Then you just deal with K20 or K24 issues. Every engine has its weak points.
Some engines even have issues stock before you try and make any more power 😂 - Taz.
i love this channel but damn andres voice.....
All I can say is, never visit New Zealand. You will hate it. We all have this accent😂 Taz.
I like that he’s a Kiwi! It surprises me how similar it is to British English.