Good on you mate, cheers for the video. For you fellas who are just trying to replace the plastic sliders, this is what I did. - wind the window to where you have access to the clips. I found the lower, long opening was best for this job. - if the arms haven't come out of the clips already, use a flathead to pry them out. (Just do one at a time or use tape on the glass so the window doesn't fall) - slide old plastic clip out of the end, pay attention to which is front and back. - re-grease new runner/slides (I used vaseline because it was on hand) - slide new plastic slider in the end of the runner and line it up with ball on end of metal arm. - use g-clamp to press arm into clip. You may or may not hear an audible click, just know the arm will naturally sit slightly out from the slide. Don't want to over compress because we're working with plastic here. - not a particularly hard job, just gotta keep greasy fingers off your window 🤣
That's great advice. It's good to see the community adding information. Every but helps. I had a laugh when you said you happened to have a tub of Vaseline nearby. There are so many more brow jokes just waiting to be done. I've recently noticed how quickly the Commodores are disappearing from the roads. Crash by crash it seems. I've also noticed the prices going up. Treat them well and keep them on the road.
THANKS This was invaluable. The part i bought already had the threads cut. Taping the window up to hold it in position to secure the nuts made it much easier. THANKS
Reverse of how it came out. I didn't do that part as it wasn't hard. Once you take it out you will be able to put it back in. I think the hardest part is getting the door panel card to slot into the groove at the top where the window is and the plastic hook on the back of the card ( is in the middle of the card) has to hook into the door at the same time. That can be a bit frustrating.
They are metric threaded bolts with a Phillips head. You could use bolts as long as they are but too long. If they are too long you may hit the windscreen glass. I had the right tap and bolts. Tapping the holes meant I don't have to try to fit a nut at the back. You could use bolts and nuts if you are dexterous. Rivnuts would also be good for the purpose.
@@MarkMoffat-hl9em you could use them but I would be worried that they may work loose. There is a lot of power from a window winding up and down. The flexing may make the screws work loose over time. A decent sized woodtek screw may work ( just remember to trim the length after test fitting so that it doesn't hit the glass and break it as it moves up and down)
Thanks for the video I have a issue with my vy commodore windows winding down, I have changed the regulator and the switch as well as the relay but its still not working i have to pulse the switch to get it down. Any ideas?
You could try swapping the relay under the bonnet In the black relay box. Maybe it's got a high resistance in the contacts of the relay. Then get some silicon spray and spray the felt rails on the door. You could get someone to push the button while you push the window up/ down. That should give you an idea if it's struggling in the felt guides. I have also had a plug for a window motor connection go bad. I had to give all the pins a bit of a scratch/bend/tweek to get them to make more contact. You will have to give each thing a try and see what works. An outside idea would be to make temporary earth from the door to the car just to rule out a bad earth. Move the door to different positions to see if the problem changes. A door opens and bends the wires so that can be a fracture point in the door harness. If you do find the fault get back on here and post a note. We can all learn from it. It's more likely to be a minor problem so just be methodical.
I had a bit of a google search and sometimes the BCM can be the problem. If the failure is on there then there is not much you can do except try a reset. I have copy/pasted what someone wrote that worked for them below. So not my words but see how it goes. Further checking of similar threads suggests the BCM auto down has crapped itself. I wonder if it possible for home user to reprogram it? I pulled the bcm fuse to no effect. *edit SOLVED* I solved issue by following reset pcm procedure. Get engine to running temp Turn ign on take out eng/cont bcm fuse under bonnet wait 20 secs for dash to beep at you ign off replace fuse (then follow procedure for idle learn i.e. put in drive for 5 mins, put in idle for 5 mins, turn off 30 secs) I found that this reset the BCM and windows issue resolved I think last time I had the ign off and pulled the fuse, not the procedure above
@@jessenorris1672 it does sound like the BMS may have a fault. If the reset doesn't work. That would then mean a new one even though it's probably just had contacts on a relay. Is it all windows or just one? If it's all then maybe the relay in the box in the engine bay. If it's just one then you would start to think it's the BMS. I normally reset the BMS just by disconnecting the battery turning on the ignition, turn on the headlights and push the brake lights. Then wait a few minutes. Then turn them all off and reconnect the battery. This basically drains why bit if power from the capacitors etc so you have a clean memory. It doesn't get rid of abs light problems though as they are safety ones. If it works let us know.
Good point. Im not sure. If it has dropped off the rails then you can pull the window up or if the door card is off you can push the window from below while pulling it up. You should still be able to drill out the 3 large rivets and get movement from the mechanism to do whats needed. Just be careful you dont hit the window with the dill or anything else or it may break. If/when you do work it out post a message here to tell us how you did it.
@@lynpatnat I was able to get the window working again, by attaching a battery to the plug at the bottom of the window! So the problem seems to not be the mechanism after all. It still is a little dodgy, but it works for now.
Good for you. It's great to learn something new and realise you can fix it without paying a ridiculous labour cost. It sounds like the door switch is the fault then. Get one from a wreck. You can pull them out so quickly. You could try by maybe swapping one from the other door. I think I just unplugged the back window as we never used that one. I did the same powered the motor to shut it then unplugged.
lynpatnat unfortunately, it seems like both. The motor sounds like it’s struggling and also the power sometimes cuts out. I’m not game enough to change out the whole mechanism. So I’m making sure I don’t completely put the window all the way down, so I can at least pull up the window and give the motor a helping hand!
Thanks for the nice comment too. It's always appreciated. If things go to plan I will try to post a video on replacing the front control rods and castor bushes soon. They are another common commodore problem that people have problems with.
Good on you mate, cheers for the video.
For you fellas who are just trying to replace the plastic sliders, this is what I did.
- wind the window to where you have access to the clips. I found the lower, long opening was best for this job.
- if the arms haven't come out of the clips already, use a flathead to pry them out. (Just do one at a time or use tape on the glass so the window doesn't fall)
- slide old plastic clip out of the end, pay attention to which is front and back.
- re-grease new runner/slides (I used vaseline because it was on hand)
- slide new plastic slider in the end of the runner and line it up with ball on end of metal arm.
- use g-clamp to press arm into clip. You may or may not hear an audible click, just know the arm will naturally sit slightly out from the slide. Don't want to over compress because we're working with plastic here.
- not a particularly hard job, just gotta keep greasy fingers off your window 🤣
That's great advice. It's good to see the community adding information. Every but helps.
I had a laugh when you said you happened to have a tub of Vaseline nearby. There are so many more brow jokes just waiting to be done.
I've recently noticed how quickly the Commodores are disappearing from the roads. Crash by crash it seems. I've also noticed the prices going up. Treat them well and keep them on the road.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video and explain things so thoroughly. It helped a lot.
THANKS
This was invaluable.
The part i bought already had the threads cut.
Taping the window up to hold it in position to secure the nuts made it much easier.
THANKS
Thanks for the positive comment and advice about taping the window. Good to see they tap threads in some aftermarket regulators.
Great video man, good to hear through comments its the same process as the back doors aswell, cheers 👍
Much the same on the back. Once you do one you can work out the others.
How do put back the electric window regulator. Commodore vx
Thanks man, appreciate the depth of explanation. Great video. Very helpful.
Thanks. It's nice to know I'm helping.
@@lynpatnat help Is an understatement, have a great day or night mate.
Thank you very much, appreciate your video
Thanks for the video am doing a power window conversion on my VT Ute because I can't get manual window regulator
Helpful Videos, Thank you Mate👍🏼
Excellent video, thanks heaps 😀
Great talk through bud👍
Thanks. Very much appreciated. I need to make some new TH-cam clips eventually.
Great presentation. Thank you.
How do you put it back in
Reverse of how it came out. I didn't do that part as it wasn't hard. Once you take it out you will be able to put it back in.
I think the hardest part is getting the door panel card to slot into the groove at the top where the window is and the plastic hook on the back of the card ( is in the middle of the card) has to hook into the door at the same time. That can be a bit frustrating.
Thx mate. VZ Ute exactly the same! 👍😎🇦🇺
That's good to know. They didn't do much re tooling between models it seems.
Are they screws or bolts being placed where the rivets got drilled out?
6mm.
They are metric threaded bolts with a Phillips head. You could use bolts as long as they are but too long. If they are too long you may hit the windscreen glass. I had the right tap and bolts. Tapping the holes meant I don't have to try to fit a nut at the back. You could use bolts and nuts if you are dexterous. Rivnuts would also be good for the purpose.
@@lynpatnat Thanks for the reply.
Can I use self tapping screws?
The stabiliser is more of an alloy material.
@@MarkMoffat-hl9em you could use them but I would be worried that they may work loose. There is a lot of power from a window winding up and down. The flexing may make the screws work loose over time. A decent sized woodtek screw may work ( just remember to trim the length after test fitting so that it doesn't hit the glass and break it as it moves up and down)
@@lynpatnat Thanks again...I'll make sure they are not to long.
Question: Would these instructions be the same for a Holden vt ecotec. v6, 1998?
Sorry I don't know but I'm sure things will be similar.
Did you use a 10mm drill bit etc?
I think it was about 6mm but I'm not sure. I had some stainless screws and a tasty that was the same. It wasn't as big as 10 mm
Thanks for the video
I have a issue with my vy commodore windows winding down, I have changed the regulator and the switch as well as the relay but its still not working i have to pulse the switch to get it down. Any ideas?
You could try swapping the relay under the bonnet In the black relay box.
Maybe it's got a high resistance in the contacts of the relay.
Then get some silicon spray and spray the felt rails on the door. You could get someone to push the button while you push the window up/ down. That should give you an idea if it's struggling in the felt guides.
I have also had a plug for a window motor connection go bad. I had to give all the pins a bit of a scratch/bend/tweek to get them to make more contact.
You will have to give each thing a try and see what works.
An outside idea would be to make temporary earth from the door to the car just to rule out a bad earth. Move the door to different positions to see if the problem changes. A door opens and bends the wires so that can be a fracture point in the door harness.
If you do find the fault get back on here and post a note. We can all learn from it.
It's more likely to be a minor problem so just be methodical.
I had a bit of a google search and sometimes the BCM can be the problem. If the failure is on there then there is not much you can do except try a reset.
I have copy/pasted what someone wrote that worked for them below. So not my words but see how it goes.
Further checking of similar threads suggests the BCM auto down has crapped itself. I wonder if it possible for home user to reprogram it? I pulled the bcm fuse to no effect.
*edit SOLVED*
I solved issue by following reset pcm procedure.
Get engine to running temp
Turn ign on
take out eng/cont bcm fuse under bonnet
wait 20 secs for dash to beep at you
ign off
replace fuse
(then follow procedure for idle learn i.e. put in drive for 5 mins, put in idle for 5 mins, turn off 30 secs)
I found that this reset the BCM and windows issue resolved
I think last time I had the ign off and pulled the fuse, not the procedure above
I'll give it a try
@@jessenorris1672 it does sound like the BMS may have a fault. If the reset doesn't work. That would then mean a new one even though it's probably just had contacts on a relay.
Is it all windows or just one? If it's all then maybe the relay in the box in the engine bay. If it's just one then you would start to think it's the BMS.
I normally reset the BMS just by disconnecting the battery turning on the ignition, turn on the headlights and push the brake lights. Then wait a few minutes. Then turn them all off and reconnect the battery. This basically drains why bit if power from the capacitors etc so you have a clean memory. It doesn't get rid of abs light problems though as they are safety ones.
If it works let us know.
Hello. What happens if the window is already down?
Good point. Im not sure. If it has dropped off the rails then you can pull the window up or if the door card is off you can push the window from below while pulling it up. You should still be able to drill out the 3 large rivets and get movement from the mechanism to do whats needed. Just be careful you dont hit the window with the dill or anything else or it may break. If/when you do work it out post a message here to tell us how you did it.
@@lynpatnat I was able to get the window working again, by attaching a battery to the plug at the bottom of the window!
So the problem seems to not be the mechanism after all. It still is a little dodgy, but it works for now.
Good for you. It's great to learn something new and realise you can fix it without paying a ridiculous labour cost.
It sounds like the door switch is the fault then. Get one from a wreck. You can pull them out so quickly. You could try by maybe swapping one from the other door. I think I just unplugged the back window as we never used that one. I did the same powered the motor to shut it then unplugged.
lynpatnat unfortunately, it seems like both. The motor sounds like it’s struggling and also the power sometimes cuts out. I’m not game enough to change out the whole mechanism. So I’m making sure I don’t completely put the window all the way down, so I can at least pull up the window and give the motor a helping hand!
Thanks for the nice comment too. It's always appreciated.
If things go to plan I will try to post a video on replacing the front control rods and castor bushes soon. They are another common commodore problem that people have problems with.
Very helpful, thanks
Where did you order this part
ebay....window regulator.
what about rear one its easy ?
similar concept. I havnt done one but the door card comes off much the same. Im sure its not that hard after that.
Oh you threaded them.