Ok, this is essentially exactly what I did. I needed 26; I'm in the process of building a historically accurate Enigma machine, and man, that involves a LOT of disks with 26 holes in them. And they all need to line up almost EXACTLY, through a stack of four "rotors" each of which involves three disks with holes, and they need to do that in all 26^3 possible rotational combinations. I'm almost done drilling center an "alignment pin" holes and next will come drilling the electrical contact holes.
I always have a problem with "what you do with tooling" when not in use. They usually go into the coolent tray then on to the floor. As a suggestion, get a large / good size neodymium Magnet stick on to the head of the drill press. You can stick your TAP and drills and centering tool there. Work out well
The ones that I made where done with the machinist turntable, I had to make a chart with all the degree's to 360. Even then I made a few mistakes. I thought this up so anyone can make them. The key is the paper pattern. Weldon Payne solved that problem, He posted a link to do this in his comment below, nice part of that you can do fractional degrees, would not attempt that with the rotating table. I will try a to copy and paste it for you. www.blocklayer.com/circle-dividereng.aspx
Hi Brian, it's me (again). Awesome demonstration on doing the plates with that "jig". However, I believe it would be easier if the "retaining plate" (the one that holds the workpiece with the 2 wing nuts) should be VERTICAL instead of horizontal. By doing so, you could also see much better if your drill bit (or center finder) is right in the middle of the lines, because everything would be in line instead of perpendicular. I can't wait to build your jig its on my to-do list.
I reread your comment and I think now I know what you are saying, only trouble with that is the bolt to hold the guide would get in the way of the drill as the drill is coming down vertically, That short center drill is the way to go as it drill where you point it. The clamps bolt would be off center and may not interfer. You would just have to give it a try. Whatever works for you. The first time I read it I was thinking you where laying it horizontal and drilling on the face of the blank. That may be the way to go. then drill a hole right through the blank, and use a pin into a hole and right through into a back board. the advantage of that is it would hold more securely when cutting or drilling, See this post on lumberjocks lumberjocks.com/projects/354721 His jig was just right on the miter gauge. The change from one hole to another may take a little long but may be better. My design with the spring indent holder was what I came up with and works OK, there are many different way to do the same thing. Thanks for your interest
Weldon payne a few comments down posted a link to a web site the you can easily print off the paper patterns in the exact size and number of segments that you want. www.blocklayer.com/circle-dividereng.aspx
I just found your jigs today on wheels. You are awesome! I will work on making my own truck tire jig from what your videos show. I do have a question on the "spring" that steps into the holes in the wheel jig...what is that? a piece of thin metal with some sort of screw/bolt end that slips into the jig hole that you are turning for each step? ("spring indent holder")?
I just used a thin piece of wood for the spring, That tower with the slots should be located on the other side so as you turn the wheel clockwise it will keep the spring seated in the block of wood. The wood spring works great, one must hold the pointed tip securely in the indent as the saw cutting the tire will tend to rotate it. That metal pointer was made by using a screw mounted in a drill and ground to a point on a grinder. Worked well, I am sure you could make lots of improvements. under comments someone posted a web site to make the paper patterns.
It just might, the cheap set that I have seem to not spin true, I have to set the point before I start the drill press, that would give just a straight hole. the center drill has the tapered part which allows the indexer point to nicely center and then pop out to go to the next one. A great drill to have on had for other things.
Short travel to make hole is all that is required. These will give you a countersink result also. They are short so you don't loose as much under the chuck working clearance. Brad point bit may have to much contact and a risk that could destroy small pieces by torque forces. These are cheap, very sharp and stay that way in woodwork, they shave like a plane blade. Brad points would be more like a chisels, to much momentum with large mass behind it for finer work. You are taking a sledge hammer to kill a mosquito. Brad points do not come for model building size work and would gunk up fast because of fast heat build up. Neither bit finds center. He used the fine tip to line up on the bit tip and then locked the jig in place. Normal drill bit have a flat spot at the end and on contact may walk a bit. All reasons or one or some, you choose.
Simple and accurate. You cannot ask for much more than that. thank You for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Old school gift of wisdom, Thank you!
So helpful Brian for an indexing jig I am just about to make, thank you very much for the inspiration.
Thank you for sharing this, I just watched your video on making the tire, this is great to go along with that. Can't wait to get started.
Ok, this is essentially exactly what I did. I needed 26; I'm in the process of building a historically accurate Enigma machine, and man, that involves a LOT of disks with 26 holes in them. And they all need to line up almost EXACTLY, through a stack of four "rotors" each of which involves three disks with holes, and they need to do that in all 26^3 possible rotational combinations. I'm almost done drilling center an "alignment pin" holes and next will come drilling the electrical contact holes.
Wow that sound complicated, I have no idea but happy I could help
I always have a problem with "what you do with tooling" when not in use. They usually go into the coolent tray then on to the floor. As a suggestion, get a large / good size neodymium Magnet stick on to the head of the drill press. You can stick your TAP and drills and centering tool there. Work out well
awesome jigs, thanks for sharing, and no rubbish music in your videos so i can hear what you are saying
Wow that is one hot idea, for an indexing. I would use your method over using my Machinist Turn Table. Much faster, and easier.
The ones that I made where done with the machinist turntable, I had to make a chart with all the degree's to 360. Even then I made a few mistakes. I thought this up so anyone can make them. The key is the paper pattern. Weldon Payne solved that problem, He posted a link to do this in his comment below, nice part of that you can do fractional degrees, would not attempt that with the rotating table. I will try a to copy and paste it for you.
www.blocklayer.com/circle-dividereng.aspx
Have handy a few golf tees scattered around to poke in the holes to lever the workpiece around in jigs. Here to rotate it. Bright colored ones.
Hi Brian, it's me (again). Awesome demonstration on doing the plates with that "jig". However, I believe it would be easier if the "retaining plate" (the one that holds the workpiece with the 2 wing nuts) should be VERTICAL instead of horizontal. By doing so, you could also see much better if your drill bit (or center finder) is right in the middle of the lines, because everything would be in line instead of perpendicular. I can't wait to build your jig its on my to-do list.
I reread your comment and I think now I know what you are saying, only trouble with that is the bolt to hold the guide would get in the way of the drill as the drill is coming down vertically, That short center drill is the way to go as it drill where you point it. The clamps bolt would be off center and may not interfer. You would just have to give it a try. Whatever works for you. The first time I read it I was thinking you where laying it horizontal and drilling on the face of the blank. That may be the way to go. then drill a hole right through the blank, and use a pin into a hole and right through into a back board. the advantage of that is it would hold more securely when cutting or drilling, See this post on lumberjocks lumberjocks.com/projects/354721
His jig was just right on the miter gauge. The change from one hole to another may take a little long but may be better. My design with the spring indent holder was what I came up with and works OK, there are many different way to do the same thing. Thanks for your interest
Nice work and easy to make jig .
wow awesome best idea ever, sir this is very simple and its easy to do, thank very much for a great idea, i will use this Technic
Weldon payne a few comments down posted a link to a web site the you can easily print off the paper patterns in the exact size and number of segments that you want. www.blocklayer.com/circle-dividereng.aspx
Brian Procter thank you sir
@@brianprocter3031 ty for the link
Very talent love your work
Very nice information sir.
I just found your jigs today on wheels. You are awesome! I will work on making my own truck tire jig from what your videos show. I do have a question on the "spring" that steps into the holes in the wheel jig...what is that? a piece of thin metal with some sort of screw/bolt end that slips into the jig hole that you are turning for each step? ("spring indent holder")?
I just used a thin piece of wood for the spring, That tower with the slots should be located on the other side so as you turn the wheel clockwise it will keep the spring seated in the block of wood. The wood spring works great, one must hold the pointed tip securely in the indent as the saw cutting the tire will tend to rotate it. That metal pointer was made by using a screw mounted in a drill and ground to a point on a grinder. Worked well, I am sure you could make lots of improvements. under comments someone posted a web site to make the paper patterns.
@@brianprocter3031 TY for explaining that.
Would it be easier to index off a vertical that would be in line with the drill?
I don't see why that would not work, just glue a vertical on the clamp. Might make more sense visually.
Would a brad point drill bit work as well as a center finding drill (that you used in the video)?
It just might, the cheap set that I have seem to not spin true, I have to set the point before I start the drill press, that would give just a straight hole. the center drill has the tapered part which allows the indexer point to nicely center and then pop out to go to the next one. A great drill to have on had for other things.
Short travel to make hole is all that is required. These will give you a countersink result also. They are short so you don't loose as much under the chuck working clearance. Brad point bit may have to much contact and a risk that could destroy small pieces by torque forces. These are cheap, very sharp and stay that way in woodwork, they shave like a plane blade. Brad points would be more like a chisels, to much momentum with large mass behind it for finer work. You are taking a sledge hammer to kill a mosquito. Brad points do not come for model building size work and would gunk up fast because of fast heat build up. Neither bit finds center. He used the fine tip to line up on the bit tip and then locked the jig in place. Normal drill bit have a flat spot at the end and on contact may walk a bit. All reasons or one or some, you choose.
Whats that sound in the background?.. bubble wrap?.. mountain goats?..
❤️W
7
mathias wendal has a really nice deviding plate or gear set up program woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html
a very nice jig Mr. Procter I will definitely make one. Thanks for taking the time to show us.