My mirror was broken in half, corrosion snapped the 4 bolts holding the mirror together, disassembly made possible by this video, pulled the three pins without removing the mirror and front assembly, tapped new holes and reattached the motor and housing, such an easy fix versus spending $300 plus on a new power mirror. Thankyou so much for this detailed video...
I used a 6" C-Clamp to remove the retaining clip that was holding the spring. I wasted a few hours and hopefully, this will help someone. The video is very detailed and helped me tremendously. I typically take a picture/video of something before I uninstall so that I don't have to remember how it was originally. Nevertheless, my hang up was once I put it back together (to test it as mentioned in the video, not all the way together), it wouldn't move. I couldn't even hear the motor (my old motor was fine and heard it when ever actuated). I kept taking it apart to see if I did something wrong. Finally, after wasting a few hours and being very frustrated, I stood on my passenger side, used a long stick to reach my driver side door, held the new motor in my hand (but the drive unit was on the mirror mount of the truck), and then I touched the button on the driverside... the motor spun, and I eased it down into the drive unit and boom, it was as if it 'got on track.' The motor worked many times when plugged up, but not when I'd have it pushed down into the drive unit. They didn't have that issue in the video. Just glad it worked out. It works super fast now. Not hoping for my driver side to stop working, but I'm prepared for it.
Thanks for the video! This helped a lot. I just completed my driver's side. Everybody please be careful removing the lock ring. The spring is under a lot of pressure! Keep it turned away from you until you are sure it is clear of the tabs. My only complaint now is I should have replaced both. Now my new motor is faster than my stock one. lol
Amazing company, great VIDEO! I have replaced BOTH of my broken power mirrors now, and the last one is now 4 years old and going strong. Hardest part is getting the Glass out and in. Be careful! thanks so much!
Yes you can order a replacement cheap assembly, and I have done that. It vibrates so bad it will drive you crazy. Just repair the original with help from these guys. Very happy .
I just did both mirrors on my 08 Silverado, and these instructions are vital! The biggest problems I had were unplugging my heated mirrors and the mirror control plug. Once I had done it, it was much easier on the next one. Make sure to check the orientation of the collet before you take it out. And pay CLOSE attention to the locking collar orientation. I just about destroyed the first one by not having it on correctly.
Good video. I’ll be replacing the motor on mine. I like the tips on do’s and don’ts on disassembly and reassembly. There is no telling how many times I’ve assembled something and realizing afterward I forgot something or misaligned a part, only to have to do it over. Mine was broken by someone in a parking lot pushing it in. Hasn’t worked sense. Grinding the tabs makes sense to lower the spring pressure. Hopefully It doesn’t get broken the next time. I watch a lot of videos to repair various things on my vehicles and this is the best quality I’ve seen with outstanding explanations as to why you do it that way. I hope your parts store has an extra motor or two.
Just replaced the motor on my wife's 2007 Denali XL. Patience is not my strong suit, but for this job with all the aging plastic I had to muster up some. Got it done without breaking something else, which I expected to do. Great product. Without this video and other like it on utube I would have passed on this job. Thanks for taking the time to put this one together. Buy with confidence from these guys, and don't forget to return your core for reimbursement.
Tip: When compressing the spring for reinstallation I used a 15/16 socket and made sure the corners of the socket were inline with the support base nubs so not to crush them , once the socket was in place it held the base still and allowed the spring and locking ring to turn very easily. And If you have some narrow jawed offset pliers it will make it even easier to turn the locking ring to its proper spot. Make sure the locking ring fins are in the up position and are on either side of the support bases nubs when finished.
Thank you for the detailed video. If you're mechanically inclined and you can follow directions have patience you can do this. Buy the kit motors and gears from Gruven to do the job. This repair may look like too much but it's worth doing. I did 2 mirrors on my 2008 Chevy Silverado in approximately 3 hours time. Now they operate better than when new. Don't buy aftermarket replacements they are junk! Keep your factory originals and repair with steel gears. Factory replacements are 500.00 and have plastic gears so they will eventually break again. After this repair the mirrors are faster although a little more motor and gear noise but it's not a big deal knowing that they will last.
I finally go the left mirror rebuilt on my Tahoe. Now I can take the aftermarket mirror off and install the factory mirror back on. Now I need to find time to get the seat height adjustment repaired.
Thanks Mike for the detailed video! This helped out tremendously, in addition of taking pictures with my camera. I used a 1in socket to alleviate spring pressure. Also, there is a small divot in the lock washer to indicate where the tabs line up. I didnt notice it on the 1st mirror that was worked on. Again, thanks you saved the pocket book.
Removing the two tabs allows the mirror to fold in and out if someone walks into the mirror. The tabs were needed with the prior design and not with the new design.
Great video thanks: these are the same units as they fit to VW T5 and T6 vans in Europe as well as Audi Q7s. The main issue with them is that the mounting plate breaks if the mirror is forced forwards: ours was hit by a wide caravan that passed too close whilst I was stopped a check in booth. Luckily you can get new brackets from a few sellers (in Turkey or Germany) on eBay. I don't think grinding the tabs off is a good idea on our VW T6 as they run in a groove and seem to limit the folded/unfolded positions. My only issue was the motor wouldn't turn the bracket when the unit was reassembled. I eventually tracked that down to tiny metal and rubber washers that seemingly sit on the outer end of the motor shaft and presumably centralise it. I didn't know they were there and they'd lodged sideways in the grease at the bottom of the black plastic socket where the shaft goes and were stopping it turning. I wasn't sure what order they went on or whether they were meant to be bonded to anything. I just slipped the rubber one on first then the metal and all seems good now.
Yes, the tiny silver washer and rubber o-ring at the base of the motor shaft inside the plastic housing. I think as you do, that the rubber o-ring goes on first and then the tiny silver metal washer. Also, like you, I am not sure the reason for the grinding the two mentioned tabs off???
What year model DL3 power folding mirrors will fit my 2007.5 NNBS Silverado? I was told only 2007-2008 others have said 2007-2013. I appreciate the help. Dealership just wants to give me info on my DL8 mirrors. I'm trying to upgrade to DL3
I changed the gear put it back together and doesn't move motor is running,, I did not buy the part from gruven, purchased from Amazon Metal gear not plastic. Why do you need to grind the tabs on the bottom of that gear? I didn't grind those tabs, is that why my mirror will not move when reinstalling it?
I install 2 new Gruven gears and motors and when I activate the mirror when testing (as at 19:15 in the video) it spins around until the motor shuts off( more than 360 degrees). What did I do wrong. The disassembly and assembly went pretty well.
Its so you can close the mirror in and out manually if needed. Sometimes people wall by and push them in and on the original set up they kept them out. Not needed with this set up.
The collet is in place to give support to the plastic gears when air is pushing against them, not needed for the new gears. Plus as you saw at the end you will be able to fold them in by hand if needed. This is nice when people walk by and push in the mirror.
guys the collet has 2 tabs sticking off the bottom of it. these mate with channels in the lower case half. on each fold/unfold cycle, the tabs must ride up a "ramp" in the channel. This is very stressful to the unit as the collet must travel upwards about 0.2" and that requires compressing the heavy main spring. The tabs are only there to prevent the unit from back driving in the wind if the plastic gear fails. Thats their only purpose. With a metal gear in there, it wont break and thus the tabs arent needed. At the very least, knock the corners off those things. They tend to dig into the softer metal lower case half and jam the whole unit. Get rid of them if possible.
@@GruvenParts Without the tabs, the collet is free to rotate. Please explain why it is still important to align the "-" mark on the collet as it relates to the housing.
@@pgeeber Because the collet will only fit onto black metal circular base in ONE orientation, as specified. If you look more closely at the inner portion of the collet, there are 3 wings. Those fit into channels in the black metal circular base. One of the 3 wings is ever so slightly larger than the other 2, and it must slide into the black circular metal base channel that is wider than the other two. Its difficult to see it without measuring but trust me, Ive repaired about 5,000 of these... Follow the directions exactly. People get into trouble when they dont follow that step in the collet orientation and then they put the thing in a press and smash the collet into the base, which wrecks the whole unit. Dont do that. Follow instructions carefully, look at the center punch mark. It should face towards front of truck on driver side and towards passenger window glass on passenger side. Trust me here please.
@@GruvenParts Many thanks for the explanation. I did orient the collets correctly and both mirrors work great. On the driver's side it did not appear that there was anything that fit into the channels that would prevent the collet from rotating, making me wonder why orientation was important. Thanks again.
Great video. I'm considering doing this on one of my mirrors. My mirror folded in and next day wouldn't fold back out and I can 't hear anything running inside when trying to fold it out while all other functions to the mirror continue to work. If I perform this part swap my issue is the mirror is in the folded position. Do I just put pressure on it to open it or is there something holding it I need to release somehow? I didn't want to damage the mirror in the process.
@@DinkAround Thank you but I meant the opening, I'm seeing 3" opening for about $50 and 4" or 5" opening for $100+ I guess it would depend on the socket you're going to use to push in the spring
Figured I'd ask in case anyone knows the problem. My 2015 Sierra 1500 mirror has a small circuit board inside of it. When utilizing the circuit board, the polarity won't reverse (in either the new or the old motor), so the motor only activates when activating the mirrors into the "open" position. If the circuit board is deleted, the motor functions properly. Anyone know the issue? Should the board just be deleted? Or is there potentially a problem with it and should it instead be replaced? FYI I purchased both the new gear AND motor.
What tool and grinding wheel is used to grind the tabs off? Any tips for someone that hasn't done that before for safety, how to handle. I do have a big clamp like in the video.
A drimmal with a grinding wheel will get the job done. Follow all of the general safety guidelines written in the tool handbook for safe operating procedures. Other than that just general hand tools used in the job.
Has anyone had the problem that once it is all done and you test the motor it works great. Then when mounted it will only run in the outward motion and will not retract. Then when you hold the motor and it running in the inward direction and then tuch it to the mounting place on the truck it arcs a little and stops. What can i look for.
@@robertm7273 There's a warning on Gruven that says if an all metal gear is used the motor must also be changed. On the original motor when the motor polarity was reversed (to make it run in the opposite direction) it made the casing hot and an all metal gear would short the circuit (probably blow a fuse). The original plastic gear acted as an electrical insulator so that it did not complete the circuit between the hot casing and the ground thru the mirror mount. I was going to point that out, but it seems it works on some designs, maybe it was changed at some point.
No, the GMT-800 model years were 1999-2006, which was the previous version. Those were actually somehow reliable. This will work for the 2007 on pick ups, all the way till present day. It will work on the 2007-14 SUV's.
@@DinkAround I mean before installing the spring the unit goes smoothly as if you fold the mirror but after installing the spring you cant move the unit at all even by force. Why is that and how to solve the problem. execuse my English
@@AliAlmalki300 I have the same problem, after installing the spring, and mounting it back on the door, it will not turn at all, the motor is trying to turn the mirror but it will not. I didn't touch any of the big gears inside, I only change the plastic gear that broke, put the spring back on, I left the cover housing off to try it first, once the spring is back on it will not move.
@@DinkAround I just did the motor and gear swap mirrors closed fine but now I find my self having to push the the mirror a little bit so it engages and opens up cause it stays stuck once it closes any idea? Motors sound smooth when closing but sound louder when opening
Could possibly be a clearance issue with the gears and the housing. Did you have to clearance the mirror housing any for the new larger gears to clear?
@@DinkAround yeah I scraped off a bit of the bottom ridge....I switched out the motor for the other new one since I bought 2, now it perfect, so ima try that motor on the passenger side now if it gives me problems I'll know it's the motor
I would have to see what it's doing to cause the binding. Have you tried running it in and out with only the frame work installed? Leave the glass and cover off so you can monitor what's happening.
Did you check the operation prior not completely assembling the mirror? Might be a loose connection, you will need to open it up and make an observation while operating the mirror.
Why do those 2 tabs need to ground off if everything goes back exactly how you took it off? There is nothing adding more height to cause the spring to be at a higher tension. So why? I don't think I saw anyone else ask. Because when I put everything back together and tried to use before plugging everything back in it does seem like there is so much tension that it won't work now. At all. I would test and put the old worm gear in but the plastic was in several pieces. So why all of a sudden it won't work put back how it was taken apart?
Because the tabs Were built on by GM to keep the mirror from folding in. Clearly a failed design. The new design allows strangers in a parking lot to push the mirror in and the tabs need to be removed for that reason.
Sorry I added more to that. Didn't think you'd answer so fast. But now mine doesn't work at all. Like there is too much tension from the spring. Like I couldn't turn it by hand. Had to use a hammer to get it to turn in and out and of course it's so hard the motor does nothing. Spins if I pull it out still
Was the washer that holds the spring on put on upside down? Guess it would be hard to tell without being able to see it. Been so long since I had one apart I would have to go back and watch the video to remind me.
@@DinkAround It's the same way I took it off. Everything. I took pictures before and all is back how it was. Even when I looked at your video a hundred times with a magnifying glass and compared it to mine. It's all back to how it was originally, except of course for the new gear. I couldn't even put that back in it was in so many pieces
I would call Gruven Parts and speak with someone.They have a lot of experience on the issue and can help you out. Someone else may have had the same issue
@@DinkAround I have the 2016 LTZ as well. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but twice I’ve taken everything apart and put it back together. The motor functions and works multiple times and then all of a sudden it’s like it’s not engaging and stops. If I take it apart and put it back together, same thing. Also, what’s the purpose of grinding the tabs on that lower gear?
My mirror was broken in half, corrosion snapped the 4 bolts holding the mirror together, disassembly made possible by this video, pulled the three pins without removing the mirror and front assembly, tapped new holes and reattached the motor and housing, such an easy fix versus spending $300 plus on a new power mirror. Thankyou so much for this detailed video...
Helped tremendously when you totally disassemble everything
I used a 6" C-Clamp to remove the retaining clip that was holding the spring. I wasted a few hours and hopefully, this will help someone. The video is very detailed and helped me tremendously. I typically take a picture/video of something before I uninstall so that I don't have to remember how it was originally. Nevertheless, my hang up was once I put it back together (to test it as mentioned in the video, not all the way together), it wouldn't move. I couldn't even hear the motor (my old motor was fine and heard it when ever actuated). I kept taking it apart to see if I did something wrong. Finally, after wasting a few hours and being very frustrated, I stood on my passenger side, used a long stick to reach my driver side door, held the new motor in my hand (but the drive unit was on the mirror mount of the truck), and then I touched the button on the driverside... the motor spun, and I eased it down into the drive unit and boom, it was as if it 'got on track.' The motor worked many times when plugged up, but not when I'd have it pushed down into the drive unit. They didn't have that issue in the video. Just glad it worked out. It works super fast now. Not hoping for my driver side to stop working, but I'm prepared for it.
Thanks for the video! This helped a lot. I just completed my driver's side. Everybody please be careful removing the lock ring. The spring is under a lot of pressure! Keep it turned away from you until you are sure it is clear of the tabs. My only complaint now is I should have replaced both. Now my new motor is faster than my stock one. lol
Amazing company, great VIDEO! I have replaced BOTH of my broken power mirrors now, and the last one is now 4 years old and going strong. Hardest part is getting the Glass out and in. Be careful! thanks so much!
Yes you can order a replacement cheap assembly, and I have done that. It vibrates so bad it will drive you crazy. Just repair the original with help from these guys. Very happy .
I just did both mirrors on my 08 Silverado, and these instructions are vital! The biggest problems I had were unplugging my heated mirrors and the mirror control plug. Once I had done it, it was much easier on the next one. Make sure to check the orientation of the collet before you take it out. And pay CLOSE attention to the locking collar orientation. I just about destroyed the first one by not having it on correctly.
Very nice. Hope you enjoy the mirrors now that they work better than ever!
Good video. I’ll be replacing the motor on mine. I like the tips on do’s and don’ts on disassembly and reassembly. There is no telling how many times I’ve assembled something and realizing afterward I forgot something or misaligned a part, only to have to do it over. Mine was broken by someone in a parking lot pushing it in. Hasn’t worked sense. Grinding the tabs makes sense to lower the spring pressure. Hopefully It doesn’t get broken the next time. I watch a lot of videos to repair various things on my vehicles and this is the best quality I’ve seen with outstanding explanations as to why you do it that way. I hope your parts store has an extra motor or two.
Just replaced the motor on my wife's 2007 Denali XL. Patience is not my strong suit, but for this job with all the aging plastic I had to muster up some. Got it done without breaking something else, which I expected to do. Great product. Without this video and other like it on utube I would have passed on this job. Thanks for taking the time to put this one together. Buy with confidence from these guys, and don't forget to return your core for reimbursement.
this is gold.. my mirrors are loose and i hear the motor running but nothing is moving. Ill try to find the courage to take it apart and fix them
Tip: When compressing the spring for reinstallation I used a 15/16 socket and made sure the corners of the socket were inline with the support base nubs so not to crush them , once the socket was in place it held the base still and allowed the spring and locking ring to turn very easily. And If you have some narrow jawed offset pliers it will make it even easier to turn the locking ring to its proper spot. Make sure the locking ring fins are in the up position and are on either side of the support bases nubs when finished.
just found the afm/dod delete video!! lead me to your channel and now i am a subscriber. great patience and attention to detail.
Thank you for the detailed video. If you're mechanically inclined and you can follow directions have patience you can do this. Buy the kit motors and gears from Gruven to do the job. This repair may look like too much but it's worth doing. I did 2 mirrors on my 2008 Chevy Silverado in approximately 3 hours time. Now they operate better than when new. Don't buy aftermarket replacements they are junk! Keep your factory originals and repair with steel gears. Factory replacements are 500.00 and have plastic gears so they will eventually break again. After this repair the mirrors are faster although a little more motor and gear noise but it's not a big deal knowing that they will last.
I finally go the left mirror rebuilt on my Tahoe. Now I can take the aftermarket mirror off and install the factory mirror back on. Now I need to find time to get the seat height adjustment repaired.
Did you ever get the seat height adjustment repaired?
Thanks Mike for the detailed video! This helped out tremendously, in addition of taking pictures with my camera. I used a 1in socket to alleviate spring pressure. Also, there is a small divot in the lock washer to indicate where the tabs line up. I didnt notice it on the 1st mirror that was worked on.
Again, thanks you saved the pocket book.
Just fixed my passenger side mirror on my 2008 2500HD LTZ, works like a charm!
Great video which made this install for the most part painless. The worst part I would say is reinstalling the spring retainer.
Agree! That can be a bit tricky
Much better than a $500.00 complete mirror !
Very detailed. Thank You. My driver’s side halfway works. I think someone pushed on it.
Perhaps I missed it, but what is the purpose of grinding off the two raised tabs? It would seem if the factory put them there, they have a function...
Removing the two tabs allows the mirror to fold in and out if someone walks into the mirror. The tabs were needed with the prior design and not with the new design.
I wondered the same thing, There’s a very detailed explanation in the PDF installation manual.
Why do you grind the tabs off that lower gear?
Great video thanks: these are the same units as they fit to VW T5 and T6 vans in Europe as well as Audi Q7s. The main issue with them is that the mounting plate breaks if the mirror is forced forwards: ours was hit by a wide caravan that passed too close whilst I was stopped a check in booth. Luckily you can get new brackets from a few sellers (in Turkey or Germany) on eBay. I don't think grinding the tabs off is a good idea on our VW T6 as they run in a groove and seem to limit the folded/unfolded positions. My only issue was the motor wouldn't turn the bracket when the unit was reassembled. I eventually tracked that down to tiny metal and rubber washers that seemingly sit on the outer end of the motor shaft and presumably centralise it. I didn't know they were there and they'd lodged sideways in the grease at the bottom of the black plastic socket where the shaft goes and were stopping it turning. I wasn't sure what order they went on or whether they were meant to be bonded to anything. I just slipped the rubber one on first then the metal and all seems good now.
Yes, the tiny silver washer and rubber o-ring at the base of the motor shaft inside the plastic housing. I think as you do, that the rubber o-ring goes on first and then the tiny silver metal washer. Also, like you, I am not sure the reason for the grinding the two mentioned tabs off???
Excellent video thank you, huge help
What year model DL3 power folding mirrors will fit my 2007.5 NNBS Silverado? I was told only 2007-2008 others have said 2007-2013. I appreciate the help. Dealership just wants to give me info on my DL8 mirrors. I'm trying to upgrade to DL3
I changed the gear put it back together and doesn't move motor is running,, I did not buy the part from gruven, purchased from Amazon
Metal gear not plastic.
Why do you need to grind the tabs on the bottom of that gear?
I didn't grind those tabs, is that why my mirror will not move when reinstalling it?
Excellent repair and replace video. Thank you.
I install 2 new Gruven gears and motors and when I activate the mirror when testing (as at 19:15 in the video) it spins around until the motor shuts off( more than 360 degrees). What did I do wrong. The disassembly and assembly went pretty well.
Excellent Video ! Would you explain WHY those tabs must be ground down? I redid my passenger side without the grinding, just changed the gear.
Its so you can close the mirror in and out manually if needed. Sometimes people wall by and push them in and on the original set up they kept them out. Not needed with this set up.
@@DinkAround Interesting. Your video was excellent! Very detailed and allowed me to do the job, it was fun .
Good video. Made the install a breeze. At 14:12, WHY did you grind the tabs off the collet? Seems unnecessary.
The collet is in place to give support to the plastic gears when air is pushing against them, not needed for the new gears.
Plus as you saw at the end you will be able to fold them in by hand if needed. This is nice when people walk by and push in the mirror.
guys the collet has 2 tabs sticking off the bottom of it. these mate with channels in the lower case half. on each fold/unfold cycle, the tabs must ride up a "ramp" in the channel. This is very stressful to the unit as the collet must travel upwards about 0.2" and that requires compressing the heavy main spring. The tabs are only there to prevent the unit from back driving in the wind if the plastic gear fails. Thats their only purpose. With a metal gear in there, it wont break and thus the tabs arent needed. At the very least, knock the corners off those things. They tend to dig into the softer metal lower case half and jam the whole unit. Get rid of them if possible.
@@GruvenParts Without the tabs, the collet is free to rotate. Please explain why it is still important to align the "-" mark on the collet as it relates to the housing.
@@pgeeber Because the collet will only fit onto black metal circular base in ONE orientation, as specified. If you look more closely at the inner portion of the collet, there are 3 wings. Those fit into channels in the black metal circular base. One of the 3 wings is ever so slightly larger than the other 2, and it must slide into the black circular metal base channel that is wider than the other two. Its difficult to see it without measuring but trust me, Ive repaired about 5,000 of these... Follow the directions exactly. People get into trouble when they dont follow that step in the collet orientation and then they put the thing in a press and smash the collet into the base, which wrecks the whole unit. Dont do that. Follow instructions carefully, look at the center punch mark. It should face towards front of truck on driver side and towards passenger window glass on passenger side. Trust me here please.
@@GruvenParts Many thanks for the explanation. I did orient the collets correctly and both mirrors work great. On the driver's side it did not appear that there was anything that fit into the channels that would prevent the collet from rotating, making me wonder why orientation was important. Thanks again.
At 14:08 you said you need to trim out the tabs. I would like to know why? And if I did not trim that part out. What would happen?
if some one hits the mirrors they will fold to the front and back with out breaking whole unit
Just to confirm, does this include a 2007 Cadillac Escalade? I assume it does but I'd rather be safe than sorry!
Yes, the Cadillac had the same mirror.
clean as you go guys
Any part # for 03-06 power folding mirrors?
I just ordered the motors and gear assembly. Getting ready to make the repair. Is this the same as on a 2019 2500 Silverado with tow mirrors?
Do you have a video for tow mirrors? Will this even work for tow mirrors?
Much obliged!
Great video. I'm considering doing this on one of my mirrors. My mirror folded in and next day wouldn't fold back out and I can 't hear anything running inside when trying to fold it out while all other functions to the mirror continue to work. If I perform this part swap my issue is the mirror is in the folded position. Do I just put pressure on it to open it or is there something holding it I need to release somehow? I didn't want to damage the mirror in the process.
You should be able to take it apart while folded in. You can apply pressure and force it out.
I want to fix my mirrors, so I bought the motors/ gears, now I'm shopping for a VICE, I'm wondering how many jaw opening length I need for this job
Mine was 8" wide if I recall. Nothing to big is needed.
@@DinkAround Thank you but I meant the opening,
I'm seeing 3" opening for about $50
and 4" or 5" opening for $100+
I guess it would depend on the socket you're going to use to push in the spring
@@DinkAround oh did you mean your vice had an 8" opening ?
What about 2014 chevy silverado ltz
Will it work for 2014?
2014 was a transition year for gm. Is it the new body style? If so you would need to Contact Gruven and see if they have more details.
Figured I'd ask in case anyone knows the problem. My 2015 Sierra 1500 mirror has a small circuit board inside of it. When utilizing the circuit board, the polarity won't reverse (in either the new or the old motor), so the motor only activates when activating the mirrors into the "open" position. If the circuit board is deleted, the motor functions properly. Anyone know the issue? Should the board just be deleted? Or is there potentially a problem with it and should it instead be replaced? FYI I purchased both the new gear AND motor.
What tool and grinding wheel is used to grind the tabs off? Any tips for someone that hasn't done that before for safety, how to handle. I do have a big clamp like in the video.
A drimmal with a grinding wheel will get the job done. Follow all of the general safety guidelines written in the tool handbook for safe operating procedures.
Other than that just general hand tools used in the job.
Did anyone’s else’s mirror not fold as far in as it use to after this repair? It sticks out 1.5” farther out when closed than it used to.
Has anyone had the problem that once it is all done and you test the motor it works great. Then when mounted it will only run in the outward motion and will not retract. Then when you hold the motor and it running in the inward direction and then tuch it to the mounting place on the truck it arcs a little and stops. What can i look for.
I have the same problem, where you able to fix it?
@@robertm7273 There's a warning on Gruven that says if an all metal gear is used the motor must also be changed. On the original motor when the motor polarity was reversed (to make it run in the opposite direction) it made the casing hot and an all metal gear would short the circuit (probably blow a fuse). The original plastic gear acted as an electrical insulator so that it did not complete the circuit between the hot casing and the ground thru the mirror mount. I was going to point that out, but it seems it works on some designs, maybe it was changed at some point.
@@jerrycallo thank you for the information I appreciate it
Just one question. What is the reason the two tabs were ground of the lower gear?
Tabs were designed for the old style gear to keep the mirror from moving freely. No longer needed on the new design
Great video! Much appreciated!
Will these repair kits also work for GMT-800s?
This kit is for the 07-13 GM. I would call or email paul@gruvenparts.com and ask if they offer anything.
No, the GMT-800 model years were 1999-2006, which was the previous version. Those were actually somehow reliable. This will work for the 2007 on pick ups, all the way till present day. It will work on the 2007-14 SUV's.
Before installing the spring I can move the unit but after installing the unit stuck and did not move. What should I do?
@@DinkAround
I mean before installing the spring the unit goes smoothly as if you fold the mirror but after installing the spring you cant move the unit at all even by force. Why is that and how to solve the problem.
execuse my English
@@AliAlmalki300 I have the same problem, after installing the spring, and mounting it back on the door, it will not turn at all, the motor is trying to turn the mirror but it will not. I didn't touch any of the big gears inside, I only change the plastic gear that broke, put the spring back on, I left the cover housing off to try it first, once the spring is back on it will not move.
I saw on the website that you will need epoxy for the brass.....I didn't see any epoxy being used in the video..is it need or am I fine without it?
Not needed. The older style it was needed as you had to use the old motor. In the video I used the complete assembly.
@@DinkAround I just did the motor and gear swap mirrors closed fine but now I find my self having to push the the mirror a little bit so it engages and opens up cause it stays stuck once it closes any idea? Motors sound smooth when closing but sound louder when opening
Could possibly be a clearance issue with the gears and the housing. Did you have to clearance the mirror housing any for the new larger gears to clear?
@@DinkAround yeah I scraped off a bit of the bottom ridge....I switched out the motor for the other new one since I bought 2, now it perfect, so ima try that motor on the passenger side now if it gives me problems I'll know it's the motor
I GROUND OFF THE TABS ON THE COLLET AND NOW IT BINDS UP. WHAT DID I DO WRONG?
I would have to see what it's doing to cause the binding. Have you tried running it in and out with only the frame work installed? Leave the glass and cover off so you can monitor what's happening.
Another question. What grease do you use?
Permatex White Lithium Grease P/N 80345
I rather buy the whole thing 😃
After install it will move one way then not move again. I can feel motor trying. Any idea? The gear was free spinning
Did you check the operation prior not completely assembling the mirror? Might be a loose connection, you will need to open it up and make an observation while operating the mirror.
How are you supposed to fasten the brass gear to the gear shaft that the old broken plastic gear was attached to? Is it supposed to be loose?
Your new brass gear will come preassembled on a new steel shaft. No need for the old shaft.
Why do those 2 tabs need to ground off if everything goes back exactly how you took it off? There is nothing adding more height to cause the spring to be at a higher tension. So why? I don't think I saw anyone else ask. Because when I put everything back together and tried to use before plugging everything back in it does seem like there is so much tension that it won't work now. At all. I would test and put the old worm gear in but the plastic was in several pieces. So why all of a sudden it won't work put back how it was taken apart?
Because the tabs Were built on by GM to keep the mirror from folding in. Clearly a failed design. The new design allows strangers in a parking lot to push the mirror in and the tabs need to be removed for that reason.
Sorry I added more to that. Didn't think you'd answer so fast. But now mine doesn't work at all. Like there is too much tension from the spring. Like I couldn't turn it by hand. Had to use a hammer to get it to turn in and out and of course it's so hard the motor does nothing. Spins if I pull it out still
Was the washer that holds the spring on put on upside down? Guess it would be hard to tell without being able to see it. Been so long since I had one apart I would have to go back and watch the video to remind me.
@@DinkAround It's the same way I took it off. Everything. I took pictures before and all is back how it was. Even when I looked at your video a hundred times with a magnifying glass and compared it to mine. It's all back to how it was originally, except of course for the new gear. I couldn't even put that back in it was in so many pieces
I would call Gruven Parts and speak with someone.They have a lot of experience on the issue and can help you out. Someone else may have had the same issue
love it
My goodness
Tried this on my 2014 Sierra and found, too late, that there was a screw connecting the back bezel. Damage is done.
WHY DO YOU HAVE TO GRIND OFF THE TABS ON THE COLLET
They are only needed on the old design and didn't work. They were supposed to keep people for forcing the mirror closed, but just broke off.
I wonder if this will work on an 04
Can we get a video for the 2014-2018 silverado?
I have a 2016 LTZ but the mirror has not broken yet. When it does I'll drop a video.
@@DinkAround I have the 2016 LTZ as well. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but twice I’ve taken everything apart and put it back together. The motor functions and works multiple times and then all of a sudden it’s like it’s not engaging and stops. If I take it apart and put it back together, same thing. Also, what’s the purpose of grinding the tabs on that lower gear?