I've been dealing with this very issue on my wife's 2009 Silverado 4.8. I messed up and did the exact same thing. Apparently, it's a popular mistake for us older folk who used to work on cars before every damn thing became computerized. Looks like I'm pulling the throttle body again after work. Thanks, brother.
You saved my skin, man! I cleaned the throttle body in my '07 trailblazer and I thought it would be a good idea to remove the valve plate. I got it all put back together and the truck was idling terribly like it was misfiring. The check engine, reduced power and stabilitrack lights went on and I couldn't drive past about 30 mph (limp home/reduced power mode). I tried disconnecting the battery and driving it to see if that would fix the issues but nothing worked. I thought I was in for a tow and at least a couple hundred dollars in diagnostic time and repairs until I found your video. The plate would not go to the 90° position so i flipped it around and viola! After reassembly it was doing all the same things until I cleared the codes (with my $20 Walmart scam tool) and restarted the truck. Everything works perfectly now! I can't thank you enough!
Thanks so much for this! I cleaned the throttle body on my 2007 Hummer H3, same problem (I removed the butterfly) to fix the issue I simple loosened the Torx screws holding the butterfly and moved it a little, I then verified it would move freely in both directions, re-installed the throttle body and issue resolved! no need for emery cloth, there is some play in the screws that hold the butterfly, just align it properly
This actually helped me. I have been trying to figure out why the car has been in limp mode. Even replaced the ECM. I am going to clean the Throttle body thoroughly tomorrow and hope it runs. Thanks for the video.
NOTE:.... If your Car / Truck Stalling after Cleaning and replacing all that stuff, etc...... You might want to " RUN " the Engine at " Idle " for a bit, so the " MAF Sensor " can Calculate your Fuel Ratio. Your Engine might be just fine... Just the MAF Sensor has to talk to the Computer. so it can " Re-calibrate " your Fuel.
I'm pretty sure this is my exact problem on my 2009 h3 and I really appreciate your video about it. I notice its MOSTLY in very cold weather such as below 20 degrees or so and I'm thinking you just gave me the explanation for what I need to do. Thanks for your video and time spent to help others!
@MammaMia Instead of removing the whole intake I simply removed the short intake hose which goes to the butterfly valve intake. It's big enough to reach inside and use carburetor cleaner on the inside. I don't recommend spraying directly inside. I sprayed the cleaner on a rag and reached in manually to wipe the carbon build up off which will be clearly visible if this is the problem. Another thing to watch for is gaps or holes or any breaches in the black intake hose which goes to the throttle intake. In my case I had a big gap where the hose was not sealing around the intake which allowed outside air to enter and create the carbon buildup
Thank you for such an informative, honest video. The part that made me just as happy as learning what you said is the kitty in the background. I lost a cat one week ago today who would have done that same thing, always wanted to know what was going on. Thank you for leaving your little fuzzy friend in the video
@@blakecollier92 My car was running fine I just wanted to clean my throttle body as it was getting quite gummed up. I also removed the throttle plate to clean it and reinstalled it. After I put the throttle body back on the car and started it the car would barely idle and ran so bad it wasn't even drivable. After watching this man's video I realized the throttle plate would not move in both directions as it was catching on the throttle housing. After I readjusted the plate to allow it to move in both directions it started up and ran beautifully. and it's been running fine ever since. Problem solved!
It still gets me. The ones I've looked into says it has to close all the way, but on yours it's still open a little. Years ago I worked on one and it closed as soon as the ignition was turned on. Thanks for the video.
Dude, you just saved my life, I cleaned that thing for my 2011 HHR, and when I put it back together, ran horrible, I didn't realized that the flap also goes the other way, when I saw your video, I jump to my car and took me 5 minutes to take it off, I checked that flap, flipped it over, so now it could goes both ways, I put it on in another 5 minutes and, VOILA!!! All good now, your video a little slow, but helped me, THANH YOU.
Thanks for sharing...I just replaced both my Brake Pedal Sensor and the Accelerator Pedal Sensor on my '10 GMC Acadia, but it is STILL giving the "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" message. Now I am being told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be cleaned/replaced. I was told to go with the easy cheaper fix first, but now I am going to be out of way more than the $300 price of this part. I wish I would've watched your video first; would've saved me time and money.
i have cleaned the TB every winter for 3 years now. always went into limp mode in extreme cold. I will give your fix a try this weekend. A new gasket is alot cheaper than the whole assembly.
it only went into limp mode in the cold? I've been having that same problem for 3 years now. I shut it off for about 5 mins and it will fire right back up no limp mode
You right I did make a mistake of removing the plate but I was polishing the throttle body all extra aluminum dust got inside where the sensor is. I clean everything and I did put the blade backwards. Thanks because when I saw your video I realized that. But I have a 2007 tahoe and on the blade it has a small circle ⭕️. I don’t recommend removing your blade because the circle ⭕️ is for calibrate the throttle body if you don’t make a mark where exactly needs to be buy a new one. This happen last year now I tahoe is all mod 700 hp. Thanks you is a really good tip.
@@maresataylor5688 I think i was referring to the speed of the video, but now that i think about it you probably wanted to talk to the guy who made the video. no big deal.
Thanks! I think you solved my problem on my 2015 chev cruze. I will clean and check the edges that may be sticking. My codes are PO 122 and PO223, Throttle Body sensor-JJ
I had cleaned it a little before i saw your video and it was still not working, but after seeing your video, i sanded the edges of the butterfly a bit until it moved freely again and now my sister says her acadia has more power than she remembers it having. Thanks again. She was really bummed when her car threw that reduced power code.
I had just cleaned my throttle body, and when I put everything back together my car did not drive right codes and the car would go into limp mode, I had watched countless videos trying to see what can help me fix my problems I was having that occurred from cleaning my throttle body. It wasn't until I came across your video and did what what you did because it seem to be the same issue I was having and when I was done my car runs flawless, thanks for the video.
05:00 and the c30s following. I've had a quick look through the comments and no-one seems to have offered any explanation for this "natural position" of the throttle butterfly. So let me see if I can help: The throttle butterfly has a natural 'rest' position which, if you use live data, will be somewhere around 30% open (on my Saab 9-3 it is 34%). At natural idle the butterfly is at around 10% or so open (obviously these figures will vary from car to car). One of the reasons for this is that the ECM needs a "reference position" of the butterfly that it can use to check operation. Despite what people might think, idle is NOT a reference position because the amount of throttle opening (in %,as we are discussing) will be different at every idle status. This is because factors such as barometric pressure, electrical load (alternator) and ac load are different every time the engine drops to idle. The ECM will be adjusting the throttle to maintain the correct idle speed. Another reason is emissions and fuel economy (I'm considering these together rather than as two reasons). Let's say you are driving along at a steady 70mph and about a half mile ahead you need to stop. At a quarter to a third of a mile you lift off the throttle pedal and the car starts to slow (engine braking, aerodynamic resistance and rolling resistance). The ECM closes the throttle to its natural rest position (about 30% open) and cuts the fuel flow through the injectors. The engine is now a simple air pump and because the butterfly is at an increased opening compared to idle, it is breathing more air than it does at idle. This has several effects, but chief among them is that there is less engine braking than there would be if the butterfly were at idle position. This means you can lift off earlier than you would in a cable driven car and so the car runs along for a greater distance with ZERO fuel consumption (remember fuel is cut off - in a carb engine the carb would be delivering fuel over this same distance). This is good for fuel economy and emissions (of course it is, lol, on any given journey you now have a number of periods where the car is consuming no fuel, reducing the total amount of fuel used for that journey and no fuel consumed also means no emissions during those same periods). You've kept the car in top gear and as you approach the point to stop, the engine speed will fall and at around 1300-1500 (varies from car to car) the ECM will command the butterfly to idle position and fuel injectors reactivate. You press the clutch, the engine settles to idle and you use the brakes for the last bit. During the period of the engine acting as a simple air pump (we call this 'fuel cutoff under over-run' - over-run being when the engine is being driven by the wheels and the cars forward momentum), the air also acts to cool internal engine parts, the turbo turbine (if fitted) and the cat (particularly beneficial if the engine has just been working hard and is running hot as a result). IF my essay made sense to you, you can see that a significant improvement in fuel economy can be had by allowing the car to slow down in gear naturally as much as is safe and practical (being aware of road and traffic conditions) and using the brakes as little as possible. Allow the car to slow down in whichever gear it is in and dip the clutch when the engine speed is down to about 1300-1400rpm. This also reduces brake wear,which reduces costs over time. Don't believe me? Try it! Questions? Ask away, I'll try to answer, provided I spot the notifications. And if you've read this far, why not check out my channel.
Thank you! This comment was really insightful. My girlfriend's car went into limp mode about a month ago and I cleaned the throttle body and it resolved the issue but it came back this morning. I cleaned it again and now it's working again. Can I somehow prevent carbon buildup in the throttle body? My brother says the throttle body on 3.8 gm is prone to carbon buildup. I'm hoping I can fix it long term without replacing the actual throttle body. Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Thank you for this detailed information, my dear humanitarian creature, I myself am having this limo mode problem but I'm not getting any TB codes only a PC solenoid code with a high circuit but I replaced that solenoid and tested the wiring and all is good yet my acadia doesn't go any higher than 3 gear sometimes to second only. Can you help me with a little insight on this and be subscribing to your channel here in a bit. Thank you!
Ray Dunn hopefully this will be my only problem and hope that it’ll fix it. Because when I tried stepping on it. It was like if the car was in valet mode or something. Because my impala usually only needs to go 2-3k rpm to get going going pretty fast but when I stepped on it earlier. It took 2 seconds to get to 3-4K rpm. This is the most frustrating thing I’ve ever had to deal with, with this car!
Ray Dunn but I still love it. It has a lot of memories. And I grew up with this car. Had it since I was 10 and I’m 16 now. Hopefully when I take the throttle off to clean it. It’ll work perfectly and take the check engine light off.
What you use is carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner only. Throttle body cleaner is the best. And you don't take off the butterfly you just clean it up really good with cleaner and a brush. If you take off the butterfly you'll mess it up because it's set from the factory. And you might have to reprogram the computer. If you keep pushing the butterfly with your finger manually you're going to mess it up also you don't do that. You just do the best you can cleaning it the way it is The butterfly is set perfectly the way it is from the factory And replace the gasket always to a new gasket period and always let it dry before reinstalling. And then make sure the new gasket is seated properly period and you'll have a good clean throttle body that would work really well
You are an idiot through and through. The man effected a repair through means you had never considered. And his methodology in using brake clean was fine, as it works as well as suggestions. If you don't like something you see on youtube, perhaps shutting your mouth and learning a little would be in order.
To make a long story short don't fuck with the butterfly. You can clean the throttle body without removing the butterfly. Throttle body cleaner, rag, q-tips, done!
Hey mate. Im in Australia I have the same issue as you and ile do what you did tommorow. Just wanted to say thanx and you helped me out quickly. Ive been trawling the net for days and ya cant really find mutch about these issues here. Cheers mate great Vid
Having the same exact issues, codes, and symptoms. Cleaned the throttle body twice since it was really built up with carbon and im still having the same problem. Car starts off fine and goes into limp after a few minutes.
If removing the throttle air valve blade, note the front as many have tapered edges. Like a tight fitting door, its outer edge is angled. Fuel enrichment comes from longer injector duration as intake air temp is input for cold start up or coolant temp. Many use both inputs because it does not work like a carb choke.
Forget the haters. Everyone makes mistakes, but cleaning the throttle valve is normal maintenance. If the brass valve is removed, place a wittiness mark on the back with arrow pointing up. The carbon or black gunk is normal unless you install an oil catch can. I do not advocate this as a fix to eliminate cleaning maintenance but many will tell you that normal gasses from the crankcase that go thru the PCV system, blow-by from and worn engine and the addition of a turbo or supercharger increase these gasses. If you race a little when the light turns green, fresh air is drawn in normally, but too much can cause these gases to condense and coat the intake and throttle valve. Putting an oil catch can is fine, but place in a cooler area and engine hoses should run down-hill back toward the engine incase the vapors condense before they get into the catch can. Good ones can run $100+, but need drained and install in a hour. Remove and install on your next vehicle if you trade it off or sell it. Best of luck buddy. Just remember, If someone says they have never made a mistake, they have never done anything. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Thank u so much ur a life saver for doing that step by step I'm having same issue. Going thru divorce so I'm doing what hubby used to do just. girly style 😂😂.
Keep up the good work, ignore all the mouth breathers on here complaining if they dont have the patience to watch a 7minute video then they shouldn’t be working on their own care. And man you saved my bacon I couldn’t find anything on this, I couldn’t figured out why it kept saying this after I took my throttle body off to clean it. It was tweaked up to where it was scraping the top.
The slight open position without any power is actually a limp-home position (very limited power, controlled just by spark advance and injectors). Otherwise at idle or more the engine braking the ECU is actually closing it by applying power to the motor.
I did exactly what you did and caused myself hours and hours of headache. You helped me solve my dumbass issue instantly the moment i turned the key i knew. Omg i wanna just beat my own ass right now. But thanks a lot man you saved me
thanks for video ill try cleaning mine tomorrow all ready replaced the pedal got a used throttle body got a new gasket ill clean up and re try. I'm getting the dash message on my grand prix starting disabled due to throttle but for would be reduced engine power due to throttle.
The best tip for reassembling the TB shaft & plate: push the blade closed when tightening the screws. Better yet, take a VERY thin sheet of something (thinner than paper) to shove in the top & bottom, that will shim the blade and center it since they're set to not touch the edges fully closed.
thanks bro .. yesterday i cleaned my throttle like you did. and i ended up with (safety reduce performance code) .. hoping your method would correct my throttle ..
Im gonna go check mine now, Ive been jumpin all over putting new this and that throwing codes but i did take my old one off and had cleaned up same part from a different motor. So Ill clean the original TB see how that works ... thanks.
Thank you so much for posting this video!! I think you may have just solved a problem I've been having with my second vehicle for a few years that no one could find 👍👍👍👍
Working on a 2000 C5 has all the codes you talked about. It idles really rough in REP mode. I looked inside the TB and it's clean. Checked all sensors and the TAC. Mash the gas and nothing. I don't know, it's a tough thing to figure out. Thanks for the video, I may pull the TB apart...
Thanks!!!! My 05 malibu 3.5 is doing the exact same things down to the codes not clearing. I press the breaks and it shut off.. I was wondering why tf my traction control wouldn’t turn off or anything.. Ima go clean it right now at 3 am lol I’ll comment again to let you know if it works!
Please help!! I'm having the same exa t problem with my '06 buick lucerne. Took it out and cleaned it, i couldn't get the butterfly screws out so i just saturated it with break kleen. Went to the wrecking yard and grabbed 3 tps off of other 3800's and not a thing has changed except i have not been able to clear the previous codes. When my engine is running about every minute or three i can hear the butterfly inside start doing all sorts of racket then it stops and starts runnin like do do!! Been chasing the gremlins under the hood for the last 6 month's and have dumped around $450 into it replacing every sensor known to man.
Hey! Okay so I have this 2011 Chevy Impala LT 3.5 liter. And it is having some issues. And my check engine light is also on. And I’m thinking it could be the throttle body because, every time when I would idle. Or come to a complete stop. You could hear the throttle rattling really loud. And you could also hear it when you are just cruising up a minor little hump. So idk if it’s the throttle. Or if it’s the transmission because my mother doesn’t like to keep maintenance on the car. So I’m thinking it could be the transmission because that kicks often but not all the time. But ever since the engine light came on. The transmission stopped kicking. And it’s just been lagging. So idk if it’s the Tran. Or if it’s the Throttle. I honestly think it’s both!
I'll check the throttle body, first which I believe is your problem I had the same thing happen with my car, until I followed what was done in the video.
This is easier said then done, give the guy a break. It's not like he had a script and or index cards to read from. Guy knows his stuff and that's all that matters.
@@WHATTHEFIX no need to justify yourself, you took 7 min or more of your life to help me and many others out there and that's all it matters. Frustrated people are everywhere. An intelligent guy could never be mean or trying to make fun of someone. Thanks for your tips man! God bless you!
You have the choice not to watch it. He covered a lot of basis here on this subject. Did you make a 30 sec video for the world to view?!? Didn’t think so.
Not everyone is as knowledgeable as you on this. He stayed on point with the throttle body and taught those of us with less knowledge very well, shame it had to waste your time but think of others.
Hello i removed my TB from my 08 Colorado and cleaned it like you did but now when i turn my truck on the butterfly doesnt open when i push the gas pedal, but when i just put the ignition to on and step on the gas the fly opens could it be the same problem?
Unfortunately, the butterfly cant be moved laterally to point of bringing it back to the end point of inside spring. In order to take it out you have to do that. That messes up the TPS and now the vehicle says loss of engine power. So we had to go get another throttle body! Smh. This was verified by my mechanic and another guy on youtube who stated same thing.
You can get them for 60 bucks on Ebay ! I bought one for 88 because they give 10 year warranty . There out if Kansas. Another channel took it apart and real good look into it and they do wear . He pit it under microscope and found where the wires do melt .
... the kitty🥰 . But does a dirty throttle has anything to do with a lose gas pedal ??? Cause my gas pedal on my 06 Ford Focus is lose as hell , last time I drove it it had a “sudden acceleration “.
Had the issue with my 04 Colorado and now with my 08 Sierra. Seems like it only happens when it's cold outside, like the 2 metals expand differently or something stupid like that.
Dude thank you so very dang gone much. You were so dead on in what you said about both sticky throttle plate and chasing my tail because I've been doing it for a week now. Thank you thank you thank you
You never want to use brake cleaner to clean with any more. It can strip the protective coating on parts and on some electronics. I remember getting a tech alert from GM about it when I worked at NAPA.
hey buddy thanks for all that I have a diesel colorado it started with, sometimes when i started the car it wouldent rev over 1200rpm but then go away and run =normally after a short while it wouldent rev at all over 1200 at all I took of the pipe to the throttle body and noticed the butterfly was closed when i cranked it over the butterfly stayed closed. I changed the throttle body over with a second hand one and now it starts and runs but wont rev over 2000rpm Iam not able to plug in a computer and get codes any thoughts please.
You now what that's that video was perfect I'm having the same problem on a pontiac g5 Same exact problem and a car dealership wants 371,00 for a throttle body cause you can't buy the sencer .. that's man
I 2010 GMC Terrain which i had check engine light on dash so i watch on how to clean to with cleaner well all said losen two screws on flaper well i tryed to center by eye so i got all back together started it up now i have REDUCED engine POWER light now iam back in on utube on this prophem so what i learned was in order to center faper you need losen two screws and push faper back the other way this centers faper then tieten scews while holding in this pro
NOTE:.... If your Car / Truck Stalling after Cleaning and replacing all that stuff, etc...... You might want to " RUN " the Engine at " Idle " for a bit, so the " MAF Sensor " can Calculate your Fuel Ratio. Your Engine might be just fine... Just the MAF Sensor has to talk to the Computer. so it can " Re-calibrate " your Fuel.
I recently pulled out my tb in my 08 cobalt non ss and cleaned it up real good. As soon as I put it back in, I immediately got high idle. It's a manual trans so I hold the brake and ease the clutch out until idle sits around 800 for about a minute. When i release the clutch after coming out of gear, she sits quietly away normal idle. As soon as I breath on the gas wrong, rpms jump to around 2k then settle at about 1500. I went to go pull it off again, thinking I had some soot or carbon clumped up somewhere and I was going to spray it down with maf cleaner.....beings it's safe for electronics and dissipates quickly. That's when I noticed my butterfly has a significant gap and realize it's not closing all the way. My thinking is, it's should be completely sealed closed until the car is starter and the pressure, with the sensors tell it to open. Am I wrong in my thinking?
@@WHATTHEFIX yeah, first was vacuum leak. Fixed it. Then was code for throttle body unable to close to zero. Put new throttle body on, got the ECU flashed..... Now she's Golden.
Jason p you need a new Tb sensor it has shorted out!! But first go to 1Aauto.com they have a great video on Tb relearn process!! As we should never move flap manually it dis aligns sensor and flap guide
I have two solutions: 1. Take the car to a mechanic 2. Learn to be a mechanic If you take your car to a shop, it's likely going to take them longer to diagnose the problem than for you to watch this video. Mechanics charge around $100 per hour and this guy is giving you FREE help and information. Calm down bro, we all have places to be.
I've got a 2002 Grand Prix gt and after changing out those infamous plastic elbows for the coolant with metal ones, my car eventually(a few days) seemed to be losing power, but was still driveable.... It starts and purrs like a kitten still, but the engine will not go beyond 3000 rpms and is in one gear...From the articles I've read, it's seems I've discovered gm's LIMP mode.... I did remove the throttle body to get to the one elbow....I didn't notice anything initially, but all this happened fast, as I blamed the limp mode on the PCS(pressure control solenoid), so just got done taking apart the transmission and putting in that sensor, which I"m sure you saw so many people stated fixed their problem.....But so far my car will still not go beyond 3000 rpms and seems to be stuck in one gear, which many have stated is the 'limp mode' to protect the car.. After watching your video, I'm wondering if I did something to the throttle body while cleaning it, without realizing it....I mean why do you think it was your fault? Did you force it to close a certain way? I'm not sure why you say it was your fault? thanks....
Captain Genius ... yes. I believe that I forced the butterfly to physically stick in the closed (too far closed) position by letting the unhooked throttle slam back shut from WOT. Good luck to you with your diagnosis!
I've been dealing with this very issue on my wife's 2009 Silverado 4.8. I messed up and did the exact same thing. Apparently, it's a popular mistake for us older folk who used to work on cars before every damn thing became computerized. Looks like I'm pulling the throttle body again after work. Thanks, brother.
You saved my skin, man! I cleaned the throttle body in my '07 trailblazer and I thought it would be a good idea to remove the valve plate. I got it all put back together and the truck was idling terribly like it was misfiring. The check engine, reduced power and stabilitrack lights went on and I couldn't drive past about 30 mph (limp home/reduced power mode). I tried disconnecting the battery and driving it to see if that would fix the issues but nothing worked. I thought I was in for a tow and at least a couple hundred dollars in diagnostic time and repairs until I found your video. The plate would not go to the 90° position so i flipped it around and viola! After reassembly it was doing all the same things until I cleared the codes (with my $20 Walmart scam tool) and restarted the truck. Everything works perfectly now! I can't thank you enough!
I just wanna thank you, I racked my brain for a two weeks, and I did this today and it fixed my issue, never knew the butterfly had to move both ways.
Thanks so much for this!
I cleaned the throttle body on my 2007 Hummer H3, same problem (I removed the butterfly)
to fix the issue I simple loosened the Torx screws holding the butterfly and moved it a little,
I then verified it would move freely in both directions, re-installed the throttle body and issue resolved!
no need for emery cloth, there is some play in the screws that hold the butterfly, just align it properly
This actually helped me. I have been trying to figure out why the car has been in limp mode. Even replaced the ECM. I am going to clean the Throttle body thoroughly tomorrow and hope it runs. Thanks for the video.
Did this fix your problem?
Did it fix it
U 💩head. Did it fix ur issue
He starts getting to the point at 4:09
Idk why no one comentted this earlier
How many people those 350 channel views you have helped anyone?
@@WHATTHEFIX he helped more clowns than you did on this video. What dumb fuck shoves open an electronic throttle body. 😂
Tks good Man..
NOTE:.... If your Car / Truck Stalling after Cleaning and replacing all that stuff, etc...... You might want to " RUN " the Engine at " Idle " for a bit, so the " MAF Sensor " can Calculate your Fuel Ratio. Your Engine might be just fine... Just the MAF Sensor has to talk to the Computer. so it can " Re-calibrate " your Fuel.
I'm getting engine reduced power on a20008 Silverado 4.8 changed out throttle body and TPS sensor still doing the same thing
Any idea driving me crazy
@@CarlosGARCIA-nz3eu - :(
@CarlosGARCIA-nz3eu you might have a bad ground check for a very small black wire located on the back passenger side of the intake.
I'm pretty sure this is my exact problem on my 2009 h3 and I really appreciate your video about it. I notice its MOSTLY in very cold weather such as below 20 degrees or so and I'm thinking you just gave me the explanation for what I need to do. Thanks for your video and time spent to help others!
Can you explain what you did in other words so we can understand via osmosis to you? Thanks so much
@MammaMia Instead of removing the whole intake I simply removed the short intake hose which goes to the butterfly valve intake. It's big enough to reach inside and use carburetor cleaner on the inside. I don't recommend spraying directly inside. I sprayed the cleaner on a rag and reached in manually to wipe the carbon build up off which will be clearly visible if this is the problem. Another thing to watch for is gaps or holes or any breaches in the black intake hose which goes to the throttle intake. In my case I had a big gap where the hose was not sealing around the intake which allowed outside air to enter and create the carbon buildup
Thank you for such an informative, honest video. The part that made me just as happy as learning what you said is the kitty in the background. I lost a cat one week ago today who would have done that same thing, always wanted to know what was going on. Thank you for leaving your little fuzzy friend in the video
❤❤❤✌
Hi Sr my throdobody for a Chevy equinox is always ramp.3.
I can't thank you enough for posting this video. It was the exact same problem I was having. You Sir, are genius!
What problem did u have ? I can’t seem to get past 2000 rpm park or in gear
@@blakecollier92 My car was running fine I just wanted to clean my throttle body as it was getting quite gummed up. I also removed the throttle plate to clean it and reinstalled it. After I put the throttle body back on the car and started it the car would barely idle and ran so bad it wasn't even drivable. After watching this man's video I realized the throttle plate would not move in both directions as it was catching on the throttle housing. After I readjusted the plate to allow it to move in both directions it started up and ran beautifully. and it's been running fine ever since. Problem solved!
It still gets me. The ones I've looked into says it has to close all the way, but on yours it's still open a little. Years ago I worked on one and it closed as soon as the ignition was turned on. Thanks for the video.
Correct. See my main comment.
Dude, you just saved my life, I cleaned that thing for my 2011 HHR, and when I put it back together, ran horrible, I didn't realized that the flap also goes the other way, when I saw your video, I jump to my car and took me 5 minutes to take it off, I checked that flap, flipped it over, so now it could goes both ways, I put it on in another 5 minutes and, VOILA!!! All good now, your video a little slow, but helped me, THANH YOU.
Dude thanks for making this video, I did the same exact thing on mine and I almost bought a new tb.
Thanks for sharing...I just replaced both my Brake Pedal Sensor and the Accelerator Pedal Sensor on my '10 GMC Acadia, but it is STILL giving the "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" message. Now I am being told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be cleaned/replaced. I was told to go with the easy cheaper fix first, but now I am going to be out of way more than the $300 price of this part. I wish I would've watched your video first; would've saved me time and money.
i have cleaned the TB every winter for 3 years now. always went into limp mode in extreme cold. I will give your fix a try this weekend. A new gasket is alot cheaper than the whole assembly.
it only went into limp mode in the cold? I've been having that same problem for 3 years now. I shut it off for about 5 mins and it will fire right back up no limp mode
@Sledder_Curt i completely cleaned the Throttle body. Have not had any issues since.
I appreciate all you guys who pass the knowledge to us all!! God Bless
You right I did make a mistake of removing the plate but I was polishing the throttle body all extra aluminum dust got inside where the sensor is. I clean everything and I did put the blade backwards. Thanks because when I saw your video I realized that. But I have a 2007 tahoe and on the blade it has a small circle ⭕️. I don’t recommend removing your blade because the circle ⭕️ is for calibrate the throttle body if you don’t make a mark where exactly needs to be buy a new one. This happen last year now I tahoe is all mod 700 hp. Thanks you is a really good tip.
With the video, you can go to settings and adjust the speed to move the video along, good info
I did buy one &now the code for accelerator pedal position sensor is on ?
@@maresataylor5688 I think i was referring to the speed of the video, but now that i think about it you probably wanted to talk to the guy who made the video. no big deal.
Dude get to the point wtf
i looked for this comment before posting it, im learning haha.
Mike Larry, then do your own video you dimwit.
He's wondering where he left his pipe!
Thanks! I think you solved my problem on my 2015 chev cruze. I will clean and check the edges that may be sticking. My codes are PO 122 and PO223, Throttle Body sensor-JJ
I was able to fix my sisters car today thanks to your video! Thank you!
Right on bud! Glad it helped!
I had cleaned it a little before i saw your video and it was still not working, but after seeing your video, i sanded the edges of the butterfly a bit until it moved freely again and now my sister says her acadia has more power than she remembers it having. Thanks again. She was really bummed when her car threw that reduced power code.
I might be a little slow, what did you do exactly?
You jus took it apart again and cleaned the edges? Was that all?
I had just cleaned my throttle body, and when I put everything back together my car did not drive right codes and the car would go into limp mode, I had watched countless videos trying to see what can help me fix my problems I was having that occurred from cleaning my throttle body. It wasn't until I came across your video and did what what you did because it seem to be the same issue I was having and when I was done my car runs flawless, thanks for the video.
What did you end up doing?
@@nene2245 his method did work but my throttle body kept getting stuck closed so I had to buy a new one...
@Anthonydawson how did you know your throttle plate wasn't closing? Also cleaning the throttle ends worked?
Thank You. It helped me. Same problem, same fix. You are a rockstar sir.
Thanks for the video! Also, really like your supervisor.
This helped me brother. Muchas THANK YOU!💪 I thought I was dead in the water to have to tell a friend to start buying all kinds of parts. 👍
05:00 and the c30s following. I've had a quick look through the comments and no-one seems to have offered any explanation for this "natural position" of the throttle butterfly. So let me see if I can help:
The throttle butterfly has a natural 'rest' position which, if you use live data, will be somewhere around 30% open (on my Saab 9-3 it is 34%). At natural idle the butterfly is at around 10% or so open (obviously these figures will vary from car to car).
One of the reasons for this is that the ECM needs a "reference position" of the butterfly that it can use to check operation. Despite what people might think, idle is NOT a reference position because the amount of throttle opening (in %,as we are discussing) will be different at every idle status. This is because factors such as barometric pressure, electrical load (alternator) and ac load are different every time the engine drops to idle. The ECM will be adjusting the throttle to maintain the correct idle speed.
Another reason is emissions and fuel economy (I'm considering these together rather than as two reasons). Let's say you are driving along at a steady 70mph and about a half mile ahead you need to stop. At a quarter to a third of a mile you lift off the throttle pedal and the car starts to slow (engine braking, aerodynamic resistance and rolling resistance). The ECM closes the throttle to its natural rest position (about 30% open) and cuts the fuel flow through the injectors. The engine is now a simple air pump and because the butterfly is at an increased opening compared to idle, it is breathing more air than it does at idle. This has several effects, but chief among them is that there is less engine braking than there would be if the butterfly were at idle position. This means you can lift off earlier than you would in a cable driven car and so the car runs along for a greater distance with ZERO fuel consumption (remember fuel is cut off - in a carb engine the carb would be delivering fuel over this same distance). This is good for fuel economy and emissions (of course it is, lol, on any given journey you now have a number of periods where the car is consuming no fuel, reducing the total amount of fuel used for that journey and no fuel consumed also means no emissions during those same periods).
You've kept the car in top gear and as you approach the point to stop, the engine speed will fall and at around 1300-1500 (varies from car to car) the ECM will command the butterfly to idle position and fuel injectors reactivate. You press the clutch, the engine settles to idle and you use the brakes for the last bit.
During the period of the engine acting as a simple air pump (we call this 'fuel cutoff under over-run' - over-run being when the engine is being driven by the wheels and the cars forward momentum), the air also acts to cool internal engine parts, the turbo turbine (if fitted) and the cat (particularly beneficial if the engine has just been working hard and is running hot as a result).
IF my essay made sense to you, you can see that a significant improvement in fuel economy can be had by allowing the car to slow down in gear naturally as much as is safe and practical (being aware of road and traffic conditions) and using the brakes as little as possible. Allow the car to slow down in whichever gear it is in and dip the clutch when the engine speed is down to about 1300-1400rpm. This also reduces brake wear,which reduces costs over time. Don't believe me? Try it!
Questions? Ask away, I'll try to answer, provided I spot the notifications.
And if you've read this far, why not check out my channel.
Thank you! This comment was really insightful. My girlfriend's car went into limp mode about a month ago and I cleaned the throttle body and it resolved the issue but it came back this morning. I cleaned it again and now it's working again. Can I somehow prevent carbon buildup in the throttle body? My brother says the throttle body on 3.8 gm is prone to carbon buildup. I'm hoping I can fix it long term without replacing the actual throttle body. Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Thank you for this detailed information, my dear humanitarian creature, I myself am having this limo mode problem but I'm not getting any TB codes only a PC solenoid code with a high circuit but I replaced that solenoid and tested the wiring and all is good yet my acadia doesn't go any higher than 3 gear sometimes to second only. Can you help me with a little insight on this and be subscribing to your channel here in a bit. Thank you!
Thanks this fixed my problem. My truck was limping after it idoled at stop lights cleaned the throttle body and haven't had a problem sense.
Ray Dunn hopefully this will be my only problem and hope that it’ll fix it. Because when I tried stepping on it. It was like if the car was in valet mode or something. Because my impala usually only needs to go 2-3k rpm to get going going pretty fast but when I stepped on it earlier. It took 2 seconds to get to 3-4K rpm. This is the most frustrating thing I’ve ever had to deal with, with this car!
Ray Dunn but I still love it. It has a lot of memories. And I grew up with this car. Had it since I was 10 and I’m 16 now. Hopefully when I take the throttle off to clean it. It’ll work perfectly and take the check engine light off.
Ray Dunn and maybe I’ll get to keep it myself instead of getting a little 4-cylinder
Thanks man, You saved me a load of cash. Much appreciated.
Your a real man taking shit apart I thought I'd be the only crazy one
Thanks for posting this...I believe I'm in the same boat...gonna do this fix when the engine cools down
That is why I keep the vid up. I get so many comments on how its not how you are supposed to clean etc etc... but once you did it, there you are.
@@WHATTHEFIX YES! So much appreciation to you!
What you use is carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner only. Throttle body cleaner is the best. And you don't take off the butterfly you just clean it up really good with cleaner and a brush. If you take off the butterfly you'll mess it up because it's set from the factory. And you might have to reprogram the computer. If you keep pushing the butterfly with your finger manually you're going to mess it up also you don't do that. You just do the best you can cleaning it the way it is The butterfly is set perfectly the way it is from the factory And replace the gasket always to a new gasket period and always let it dry before reinstalling. And then make sure the new gasket is seated properly period and you'll have a good clean throttle body that would work really well
You are an idiot through and through. The man effected a repair through means you had never considered. And his methodology in using brake clean was fine, as it works as well as suggestions.
If you don't like something you see on youtube, perhaps shutting your mouth and learning a little would be in order.
To make a long story short don't fuck with the butterfly. You can clean the throttle body without removing the butterfly. Throttle body cleaner, rag, q-tips, done!
Do you open and close it though to clean it??
@@jonmo2694 yes, but unplug it first, then plug it back in after you clean. Or else it will have to relearn the idle position.
Hey mate.
Im in Australia
I have the same issue as you and ile do what you did tommorow.
Just wanted to say thanx and you helped me out quickly.
Ive been trawling the net for days and ya cant really find mutch about these issues here.
Cheers mate great Vid
Having the same exact issues, codes, and symptoms. Cleaned the throttle body twice since it was really built up with carbon and im still having the same problem. Car starts off fine and goes into limp after a few minutes.
Did you figure it out?
Awesome video man! Thanks I'm hoping this works on my wife's cobalt !
Matt Christie I hope this works with my mine and my mother’s Impala. Really hope it’s just the throttle and not the transmission.
I have a cobalt to.. I hope it works....
If removing the throttle air valve blade, note the front as many have tapered edges. Like a tight fitting door, its outer edge is angled.
Fuel enrichment comes from longer injector duration as intake air temp is input for cold start up or coolant temp. Many use both inputs because it does not work like a carb choke.
Glad I saw this becuase I planned to take the plate off to clean.. Guys who keep it plain when it comes to car stuff feels like walking in the shop
Good vid 👍🏻
Who cares if he takes a while to get to the point. He’s listening to TURNPIKE TROUBADOURS. He’s good as good in my book just for that fact alone 👍
Video really help me thanks brother
Forget the haters. Everyone makes mistakes, but cleaning the throttle valve is normal maintenance. If the brass valve is removed, place a wittiness mark on the back with arrow pointing up. The carbon or black gunk is normal unless you install an oil catch can. I do not advocate this as a fix to eliminate cleaning maintenance but many will tell you that normal gasses from the crankcase that go thru the PCV system, blow-by from and worn engine and the addition of a turbo or supercharger increase these gasses. If you race a little when the light turns green, fresh air is drawn in normally, but too much can cause these gases to condense and coat the intake and throttle valve. Putting an oil catch can is fine, but place in a cooler area and engine hoses should run down-hill back toward the engine incase the vapors condense before they get into the catch can. Good ones can run $100+, but need drained and install in a hour. Remove and install on your next vehicle if you trade it off or sell it. Best of luck buddy.
Just remember, If someone says they have never made a mistake, they have never done anything. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Very useful and in-depth information. Thank you for the added value to this video. pinning this at the top
Thank u so much ur a life saver for doing that step by step I'm having same issue. Going thru divorce so I'm doing what hubby used to do just. girly style 😂😂.
Keep up the good work, ignore all the mouth breathers on here complaining if they dont have the patience to watch a 7minute video then they shouldn’t be working on their own care. And man you saved my bacon I couldn’t find anything on this, I couldn’t figured out why it kept saying this after I took my throttle body off to clean it. It was tweaked up to where it was scraping the top.
The slight open position without any power is actually a limp-home position (very limited power, controlled just by spark advance and injectors). Otherwise at idle or more the engine braking the ECU is actually closing it by applying power to the motor.
The throttle plate has to be slightly open to idle
Thank you, so nice to see somebody chiming in to help out instead of being rude
I really appreciate this video because I did the same thing.
Thank you! Keep on truckin' my friend
Can the p2113 7:06 sensor paddle stop the car from stating?
I did exactly what you did and caused myself hours and hours of headache. You helped me solve my dumbass issue instantly the moment i turned the key i knew. Omg i wanna just beat my own ass right now. But thanks a lot man you saved me
We all are guilty of being dumbasses sometimes. Glad to help
The Cat.... LOL "Is he goin on about that throttle body again?" :P
lol Ya! She cares only for food and being petted! She keeps down the vermin population tho, so she's a keeper.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂
Thank you for this video; it does help me consider other ideas with trouble shooting the issue.
thanks for video ill try cleaning mine tomorrow all ready replaced the pedal got a used throttle body got a new gasket ill clean up and re try. I'm getting the dash message on my grand prix starting disabled due to throttle but for would be reduced engine power due to throttle.
So does it suppose to close tight? Or have a little opening?
MUST have a little opening. Needs air and fuel.
The best tip for reassembling the TB shaft & plate: push the blade closed when tightening the screws. Better yet, take a VERY thin sheet of something (thinner than paper) to shove in the top & bottom, that will shim the blade and center it since they're set to not touch the edges fully closed.
thanks bro .. yesterday i cleaned my throttle like you did. and i ended up with (safety reduce performance code) .. hoping your method would correct my throttle ..
Did it work?
Did it work? I’m having problems with my GM Pontiac G8 V6
You cleaned it and this solved your limp mode problem? Only cleaning it? Or is there more?
Alf Rom there’s more!!!
Im gonna go check mine now, Ive been jumpin all over putting new this and that throwing codes but i did take my old one off and had cleaned up same part from a different motor. So Ill clean the original TB see how that works ... thanks.
Thank you so much for posting this video!!
I think you may have just solved a problem I've been having with my second vehicle for a few years that no one could find 👍👍👍👍
The cat just took the cake bro. Lol
YUP! Peaches is the bomb!
Working on a 2000 C5 has all the codes you talked about. It idles really rough in REP mode. I looked inside the TB and it's clean. Checked all sensors and the TAC. Mash the gas and nothing. I don't know, it's a tough thing to figure out. Thanks for the video, I may pull the TB apart...
Hey, did you ever figure it out?
Thanks!!!! My 05 malibu 3.5 is doing the exact same things down to the codes not clearing. I press the breaks and it shut off.. I was wondering why tf my traction control wouldn’t turn off or anything.. Ima go clean it right now at 3 am lol I’ll comment again to let you know if it works!
Please help!! I'm having the same exa t problem with my '06 buick lucerne. Took it out and cleaned it, i couldn't get the butterfly screws out so i just saturated it with break kleen. Went to the wrecking yard and grabbed 3 tps off of other 3800's and not a thing has changed except i have not been able to clear the previous codes. When my engine is running about every minute or three i can hear the butterfly inside start doing all sorts of racket then it stops and starts runnin like do do!! Been chasing the gremlins under the hood for the last 6 month's and have dumped around $450 into it replacing every sensor known to man.
Hey! Okay so I have this 2011 Chevy Impala LT 3.5 liter. And it is having some issues. And my check engine light is also on. And I’m thinking it could be the throttle body because, every time when I would idle. Or come to a complete stop. You could hear the throttle rattling really loud. And you could also hear it when you are just cruising up a minor little hump. So idk if it’s the throttle. Or if it’s the transmission because my mother doesn’t like to keep maintenance on the car. So I’m thinking it could be the transmission because that kicks often but not all the time. But ever since the engine light came on. The transmission stopped kicking. And it’s just been lagging. So idk if it’s the Tran. Or if it’s the Throttle. I honestly think it’s both!
I'll check the throttle body, first which I believe is your problem I had the same thing happen with my car, until I followed what was done in the video.
Yeah I've already done that twice and it still sticks but cause truck to go into limp mode as well I'm replacing it this weekend to see if it helps
This is easier said then done, give the guy a break. It's not like he had a script and or index cards to read from. Guy knows his stuff and that's all that matters.
Everyone is upset when they are getting free information!
LOL... thanks guys. It seems the words are in my brain... but hit a bottleneck... I'm thankful for the ones that find it useful!
@@WHATTHEFIX no need to justify yourself, you took 7 min or more of your life to help me and many others out there and that's all it matters. Frustrated people are everywhere. An intelligent guy could never be mean or trying to make fun of someone. Thanks for your tips man! God bless you!
Get to the point bro! Jesus! I was done after 30 seconds
No fu*k'n doubt Texas! This guy have a brain injury or what? Jesus aged Christ! Soooooo Ssslllooooooowwww.... 🥱🥱🥱😴😴😴😴
@@themadcaps-americanorigina6773 aged? 😂 you mean “H”
You have the choice not to watch it. He covered a lot of basis here on this subject. Did you make a 30 sec video for the world to view?!? Didn’t think so.
Not everyone is as knowledgeable as you on this. He stayed on point with the throttle body and taught those of us with less knowledge very well, shame it had to waste your time but think of others.
🤣🤣🤣
Appreciate the video. Peaches!!!
Thank you so much. I am going to take another look at my Brothers Cadillac North Star 2004. The pedal sticks every now and then.
Hello i removed my TB from my 08 Colorado and cleaned it like you did but now when i turn my truck on the butterfly doesnt open when i push the gas pedal, but when i just put the ignition to on and step on the gas the fly opens could it be the same problem?
Unfortunately, the butterfly cant be moved laterally to point of bringing it back to the end point of inside spring. In order to take it out you have to do that. That messes up the TPS and now the vehicle says loss of engine power. So we had to go get another throttle body! Smh. This was verified by my mechanic and another guy on youtube who stated same thing.
You can get them for 60 bucks on Ebay ! I bought one for 88 because they give 10 year warranty . There out if Kansas. Another channel took it apart and real good look into it and they do wear . He pit it under microscope and found where the wires do melt .
Thanks!! Very helpful
Hey man, great video you saved me 160dlls!
... the kitty🥰 . But does a dirty throttle has anything to do with a lose gas pedal ??? Cause my gas pedal on my 06 Ford Focus is lose as hell , last time I drove it it had a “sudden acceleration “.
Yup
Good job buddy. screw the duma!!es with there disrespectful comments. It helped me
Do the TPs need to be calibrated? I got code p0121 so I swapped my TPs for a new 1 and still got the cel back on
Had the issue with my 04 Colorado and now with my 08 Sierra. Seems like it only happens when it's cold outside, like the 2 metals expand differently or something stupid like that.
By cleaning it with brake cleaner, you stripped the coating. Now dirt and smut will stick more readily and cleaning it will be more often.
Thx 4 video, not much about this on net.. on mine the whole butterfly assembly was so stuck I literally used a rubber mallet to get it unstuck
How do you recalibrate or reset it what do you need or where could I take it?
Thanks for the help buddy!
Just curious? Is it possible that that finger you pointed out may be factory set to have those two fused?
I do not believe so
The cat is listening....thanks for explaining...
Dude thank you so very dang gone much. You were so dead on in what you said about both sticky throttle plate and chasing my tail because I've been doing it for a week now. Thank you thank you thank you
Hey... Glad i could help. Sometimes it is something you would never expect. Good luck to you!
I believe using brake cleaner is a no no brother.
Aaron Moore break cleaner is best
You never want to use brake cleaner to clean with any more. It can strip the protective coating on parts and on some electronics. I remember getting a tech alert from GM about it when I worked at NAPA.
hey buddy thanks for all that I have a diesel colorado it started with, sometimes when i started the car it wouldent rev over 1200rpm but then go away and run =normally after a short while it wouldent rev at all over 1200 at all I took of the pipe to the throttle body and noticed the butterfly was closed when i cranked it over the butterfly stayed closed. I changed the throttle body over with a second hand one and now it starts and runs but wont rev over 2000rpm Iam not able to plug in a computer and get codes any thoughts please.
You now what that's that video was perfect I'm having the same problem on a pontiac g5 Same exact problem and a car dealership wants 371,00 for a throttle body cause you can't buy the sencer .. that's man
WTF?
Same issue. My girlfriend's car needs a TBPS and they only sell the whole throttle body. What a scam.
hello sir do you have to drain anything like coolant or no?
I 2010 GMC Terrain which i had check engine light on dash so i watch on how to clean to with cleaner well all said losen two screws on flaper well i tryed to center by eye so i got all back together started it up now i have REDUCED engine POWER light now iam back in on utube on this prophem so what i learned was in order to center faper you need losen two screws and push faper back the other way this centers faper then tieten scews while holding in this pro
NOTE:.... If your Car / Truck Stalling after Cleaning and replacing all that stuff, etc...... You might want to " RUN " the Engine at " Idle " for a bit, so the " MAF Sensor " can Calculate your Fuel Ratio. Your Engine might be just fine... Just the MAF Sensor has to talk to the Computer. so it can " Re-calibrate " your Fuel.
Dude thank you, read this then went out and centered the butterfly as u described, problem solved!
I recently pulled out my tb in my 08 cobalt non ss and cleaned it up real good. As soon as I put it back in, I immediately got high idle. It's a manual trans so I hold the brake and ease the clutch out until idle sits around 800 for about a minute. When i release the clutch after coming out of gear, she sits quietly away normal idle. As soon as I breath on the gas wrong, rpms jump to around 2k then settle at about 1500. I went to go pull it off again, thinking I had some soot or carbon clumped up somewhere and I was going to spray it down with maf cleaner.....beings it's safe for electronics and dissipates quickly. That's when I noticed my butterfly has a significant gap and realize it's not closing all the way. My thinking is, it's should be completely sealed closed until the car is starter and the pressure, with the sensors tell it to open. Am I wrong in my thinking?
Some air gap is needed, hard to tell. Also, check all your vacuum lines and connections. Leaks can cause erratic idle. Any DTC present?
@@WHATTHEFIX yeah, first was vacuum leak. Fixed it. Then was code for throttle body unable to close to zero.
Put new throttle body on, got the ECU flashed..... Now she's Golden.
Nice! Keep on truckin' my friend!
@@WHATTHEFIX appreciate the response. Ty
Jason p you need a new Tb sensor it has shorted out!! But first go to 1Aauto.com they have a great video on Tb relearn process!! As we should never move flap manually it dis aligns sensor and flap guide
That video could have been 30 seconds long.
Bitch
@@humanoidweapon6260 lmfao
I have two solutions:
1. Take the car to a mechanic
2. Learn to be a mechanic
If you take your car to a shop, it's likely going to take them longer to diagnose the problem than for you to watch this video. Mechanics charge around $100 per hour and this guy is giving you FREE help and information. Calm down bro, we all have places to be.
Thats a good looking shop cat.
Peaches, the killer.
Skipped threw so much forgot what I was looking for
I have same Problem with my colorado
I try to clean it hope that helps...
Thanks for Help...
Tommy
I've got a 2002 Grand Prix gt and after changing out those infamous plastic elbows for the coolant with metal ones, my car eventually(a few days) seemed to be losing power, but was still driveable....
It starts and purrs like a kitten still, but the engine will not go beyond 3000 rpms and is in one gear...From the articles I've read, it's seems I've discovered gm's LIMP mode....
I did remove the throttle body to get to the one elbow....I didn't notice anything initially, but all this happened fast, as I blamed the limp mode on the PCS(pressure control solenoid), so just got done taking apart the transmission and putting in that sensor, which I"m sure you saw so many people stated fixed their problem.....But so far my car will still not go beyond 3000 rpms and seems to be stuck in one gear, which many have stated is the 'limp mode' to protect the car..
After watching your video, I'm wondering if I did something to the throttle body while cleaning it, without realizing it....I mean why do you think it was your fault? Did you force it to close a certain way? I'm not sure why you say it was your fault? thanks....
Captain Genius ... yes. I believe that I forced the butterfly to physically stick in the closed (too far closed) position by letting the unhooked throttle slam back shut from WOT.
Good luck to you with your diagnosis!
Having same problem in my 2004 Grand Prix and I can't find a New throttle body as it's a aftermarket product any ideas
Salvage yard?
The cat is a paid actor haha and thank you very much
Thank you bro.
Like the hoody I'm gonna get one for this winter
So your flapper was sticking shut?
Thanks for sharing this👍