The UPGRADES your 4WD actually needs!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.พ. 2023
- On todays episode we are doing upgrades that often get overlooked.
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#Coilcab #4x4 #offroad - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great way to start a Sunday. Was wondering how the Patrol was going
It still Saturday 😂
@@cnc75adventures49 not in Australia m8
Thanks guys! Glad to be back!!
Fantastic build videos, enjoying every one. With torque settings I always convert Newton-meters to kg-meters, helps me visualize it better. It’s simple , just divide by 10 to give a close approximation. So your 490 Nm setting for the bearing lock nut converts to 49 kg-m. So just picture your homemade spanner, that is roughly a meter long, with a weight of 49 kg hanging on the end of it. That’s the torque you are after.
Brakes are so important. Good to see you guys are not skimping on the rebuild. Best upgrade I did on my 4WD.
Next time, use your welder! A very short weld on the race < you're replacing it snyways> will make it shrink and fall out of the hub with no damage to tools or other parts. The brass tools are for installation. Steel can be used to remove a race, because you're presumably not re-using it. P.S. a small amount of grease on the outside of the race will make it easier to drive in. This is not an issue because the bearing would have to be locking up before the race would slip.
YESS! the ARVOS ARE BACK! I can't be the only one who's been checking the channel every week since December.... 🙌🏽😅
Thanks mate ! :) Glad to be back!! Got a few exciting months to come!!
You guys deserve way more subscribers. People love watching you guys do things at home at an affordable budget. Keep up the sick content 🙏
Great update fellas! I hope you do a swivel hub rebuild episode
Just a little known tip but Leaf Ute Outer guards are different to Coil Outer Guards so you will need to get a set of Wagon/Coil Cab Guards. I know because I had to learn as I did a front Narrow leaf guard conversion to a Wide leaf guard conversion. There are 3 types of outer guards, the narrow leaf, wide leaf and wide coil guards but they all bolt up to the inner guards. Everyone seems to think all the wide guards are the same but if you put a tape measure up to the guards you will realise they're quite different as the leaf springs push the axle forward where as a coil spring doesn't. In other words a leaf will be narrow at the indicator side of the arch and wide at the firewall side and the coil will be wide at the indicator side and narrow at the firewall. So if you don't get the right guard to suit your axle the wheel won't be central in the arch by a significant margin.
Always a good day when Aussie Arvos uploads
Only need brass on cruiser or hilux cone washers for the hub. Always use steel punch on bearing race when removing
4:30 This man is a dentist, so we can’t show you his face on television.
Morning Patrick.
(Might be a bit before your time guys, but the way you filmed it reminded me of the old Oral B ads 😂)
good to see someone on the platform using a torque wrench! bit of advice from experience, i would recommend definitely doing a front end rebuild while it’s out. my gq sat for 2-3 years before i bought it, no leaks anywhere swivels included and within 6 months of driving it i did front end, gearbox output, front main, and a clutch slave/master
Great video, it is always good to see that when a problem comes up, you guys work through to find a solution. The brake upgrades look fantastic 👍🏻
Really happy to see some more progress on your build. You guys are quite the mechanics with all your custom built tools. Really looking forwa4d to seeing thevrest of this build.
Great stuff!
Hope you guys a great new year cannot wait for more sick videos keep it up boys
Go the patrol ❤
I found with the tight hubs on the axle you don’t actually hold the hub when you bang it on wood, you hold the shaft when banging it. Sounds odd but it has worked every time.
Another cracking video guys! Love it. Taking lot of notes ;)
This is sick loving this build it’s going to be mint
Awesome dude. Great build for peace of mind.
Nice vid mate. I am a cruiser guy personally. But I enjoy your videos. Can't wait to keep watching your build
Perfect way to start my Sunday, cheers boys
Loving the build mate , can't wait for the end result 😍
Welcome back lads. Merry Christmas and happy new year. Bloody don’t you hate that when you’re brother is right lol.
Good work guys keep them coming 👍🏽
Good stuff guys. Keep em coming.
11:11 Cool bird.
I love seeing all the home-made special tools. Super cool.
Curious to see how Nissan themselves tighten that one nut to 400+ nm.
It would have to be one very special torque wrench and nut.
I use a socket smaller then the hub hole to press out and in wheel bearings. Hope you’s had good new year, missed the videos 💯
Great video boys, loved the bird guest appearance, protex are the best gear for your rig!
Dont grease your seals before installation. Grease inners of the seal before you fit them to the axle. You need to turn the hub as you tighten the nut to seat the tapered bearings properly.
Correct.
Excellent, keep the vids com’n man. 👍👍
Has just the frame of the patrol and says "we have plenty to do" 😂 yea i can see!
New bearings in, repack old good condition bearings wrap in grease paper & store in spares box for emergency on the track.
Never pack bearing manually ever again since I got the bearing packer. Faster, more consistent for dummies & cleaner
Would definitely recommend braided lines throughout, for added "feel" & less loss of power in your brakes
Been following you mob for a while now. Keen to see how this one turns out matey!!
great show boys an old trick put a bead of weld on the bearing race it will shrink it for the hard ones
Inspiring video.
Great video, keep it up
A bearing packing tool makes packing bearings soooooo much easier, quicker and less messy. Fairly budget friendly too.
As a mechanical fitter in the mining industry I've always got a length of key steel in my tool kit for punching bearings, seal's etc. You just have to watch 2 things first one you mentioned about gouging the bore the second (and this goes for brass as well although not as bad) is chips can flake off your punch and end up in the bearing. But don't be scared
Second this 👌
You could have ran a bead of arc weld around the inside of the race which would have shrunk the race enough to make super easy to get out. cheers Pete (gold coast Qld.)
Go the Patrol! good to see the Brake Upgrade in avideo ! well done ! 🛻📹🤙😎
Bro you're series puts sammy eyles to shame! It's that good
Welcome back...you guys have been missed 👍
Cheers Gary!
Grab double lipped inner axle seals for the front, they leak far less due to offroading resulting in less front end rebuilds and inner axle seal rep,acements. Do away with that hi temp bearing grease and use something like farm specific grease, doesnt wash out as easy and lasts much longer when met with mud n water. Hi temp grease is for the grey nomad community 😂 lol.
Suprised u guys dont have a cheap 20t shop press from machinary warehouse, makes changes bushes bearings ect so much easier and quicker 💪💪. Nice video.
If you don't run them again run A weld around the inside of the bearing
I don't know anything about anything. But looks like you could do with a press of some kind to help with removing and replacing parts in tight places.
Finally you guys are back. Been on the Piss😂
Great vid super informative. But if you want race car performance brake a marks hydraulic brake booster will lock 35s up
Great work. Brakes where one of the first upgrade on my 80 when I got it. It makes a huge difference. Now if I can only do the same for the handbrake.
Boosted built garage transfer handbrake, run them on a few 79 work utes and they will hold a trailer facing uphill
Or just install an after market extended dog bone, such as one from terrain tamer. They work a treat 👍
Well done on all of your efforts so far.
This will be a very nice rig!
Looking forward to watching it all come together.
More young Aussie blokes should follow your lead,
and drop the computer, and pick up the tools.
Keep up the good work.
All the best,
Mark..
P.S. Is the tool box you took off the ute for sale? I'd be interested..
King parrot QC inspector.
Boys
Nice vid
Get some bigger brass drifts, they were tiny. I’ve got 3 different sized ones. They work awesome
Patrol rear bearings are always a nightmare. Need a 20t press. Even then they need heat sometimes. I’d say buy a press but you’ll probably never need to do them again they are a huge bearing.
Cal
Are you guys going to be doing a rear coil tower brace I may suggest doing it if you guys want to do everything while the car is apart
0:00 thats one hell of a patrol build never seen one so kitted out what more could want to do to it?
Please build a tray for the new build would love to see it.
Don't no how much flex you want but extended brake lines mite help , with issues later on you don't want to be on a hill flexing and have a brake line failure
Should do full swivel hub rebuild as you stated sitting a long time don't know the condition and find once Axel's start spinning then it will leak
Finally was wondering how the patrol was coming
Cheers boys, I was wondering how the build was going?
Great vid, i am just about to do a nose to tail on my 80 td 92, i would like to link up for a chat if possible. Cheers Rob
nice
Nice👌
Auzzieeee
What size is the rear axle nut. That tool u made us great
You can convert the auto hubs to manual
Auto hubs need tiny amounts of grease - too much and they don't work properly. You can easily manualise them. After manualising them, they are still weak internally - they have 2 fingers in there (which look a bit like a bearing puller) and they will spread apart causing no locking. To break the alloy housing takes quite a bit of force, more than most half sensible drivers would generate. Definitely get manual ones. I have always used a steel drift to knock out shells. You won't hurt the casting - even if you score it a bit, it will not matter.
changing the oil in the transfer case to atf fluid seems to be the go too. They have been known to engage on slippery roads when in auto when u dont want them to be engaged. Id go avm hi performance hubs.
I used to hitting wrench with my hands and at 50 it came back to bite me, pain all the time.
Perhaps using the mallet is better!
Being you gq is leaf front and back, would it be right to assume it shares the same diffs as the mk? If so your hubs won’t transfer over different spline
Steel out brass in pro tip
I'll buy those auto hubs off ya if you're going to get rid of them
In 2008 I had oil seep from pinion bearing seal after long drives only. I was told my Jackaroo needed a bearing replacement due to a heat issue in rear passenger hub by Holden service dept, so I authorised it. Right, let the shit begin.
Ph. call, your car won't be ready today, we're having issues.
3 days later, your car's ready to pickup. Invoice, $945 to replace a bearing, why?????
Turns out my bearing broke their bearing press, the Ford dealers bearing press (sister company opposite sides of town), so it was taken to an engineering shop press.
Turns out the bearing shattered, striking the press operator hospitalising him, hmm.
Still, why so much? "Labour".
You're joking, "No"
Paid the extravagant bill, set off on interstate trip, oil still seeps from pinion bearing, hub still gets hot, WTF. Believe it or not, the culprit was a seized brake caliper pin, hence the pad was never allowed to centralise, constantly under pressure against rotor.
I fixed this myself when I returned home, talk about a misdiagnosis.
I had an engineering shop, drill the old pin out, new one in, I reassembled, no more hot hub no more oil seep.
Annoying part was, they'd had the calliper out to pull axle out to get to perfectly good bearing before shattering it, then reassemble & refit the original culprit, "the seized brake caliper".
Now that's a axle bearing story.
I love you fellas but you really need to stop holding hammers halfway up the handle :) lols
Choking the hammer aye
If you’re doing bearings, why wouldn’t you do swivel hubs as well. It’s a lot easier when everything’s apart?
Did he say in the vid? Sometimes a gamble is fun.
👌🇦🇺
Bearing preloaded 196nm torque it down and back it off 5nm not back to 0 and only tighten to 5nm that's to loose
Can I buy you AU haha
Mate put some safety glasses on when trying to punch anything out especially bearing races...brass punch or not.. you'll get blind real quick
No point at all using that torque wrench on the rotors, alway always take off extensions where possible
Quick question? What do you mean that “it’s good to go into low range and not have 4wd engaged “ . Im huge fan mate, all the way from Botswana, Africa
If you have manual locking hubs (manually choose between free/lock) then you can put it in 4wd low and it won't spin the front wheels whilst the hubs are in free.
You can modify the auto locking hubs to do the same apparently but they're pretty weak compared to the manual locking hubs.
It gives the gearing of low range without affecting manoeuvrability useful for reversing heavy trailers up hill
mate what happened to the rest of your patrol
When’s another camping or 4wding video coming. I’ve got the same 270 awning that’s on the 80 on my gu and wanna see more of it in action here too
Could have just taken auto ring out of hubs
top banana
Slotted rotors are really not that great off-road unfortunately. The slots fill with mud an ruin your pads pretty quickly
But otherwise cool to see you guys back at it , build is coming along nicely 🤙
Finally when r u Doing gum with me guy come on
Your not working on a car if you don’t lose skin off your knuckles
Get work bench mate.
Surprised dictator Dan let you leave the socialist state