Found it to be even more effective welding a flat washer on first. Then weld the nut to the washer. Using a slightly smaller ID washer than the fastener helps protect the aluminum.
Have done similar things to remove broken bolts but never on a 5.4. Don't know how you found room to weld it and see it at the same time! Almost every repair is a pain on these engines. You're awesome!
I had an 04 V10 that had several broken bolts. They all broke off with part of the stud sticking out. Didn't do the welding, only used an easy out. Finally got all of them. Cleaned all the threads, new manifold and gasket, and out the door.....quietly! The exhaust can do a job to the aluminum, so it's best to fix the leak as quickly as possible. You did a great repair!
Best video I have seen so far,Working on my 2010 f150 HD and 4 of these monsters are broken and this is hell😢. I’m ready to follow these steps and I will be patient doing this,It’s not going to be easy but I’m going to do it.Thank you for this video!👏🏾
Thanks to you guys for this video,It save me lot of money in changing those monsters (exhaust manifold).I followed these same steps and I was able to remove 5 broken studs from Both sides. This is no easy job,So I suggest anyone trying to do theirs should watch this video and get all the necessary tools and engine and transmission lift is a must.🙏🏽👏🏽
Really good information David and Tina appreciate that we never have to get into that unless we do an LS motor but we don’t take on those types of jobs are very difficult you’re the man and woman Team
Holy crap. Of the entire video I thought the mechanic actually sounded close to the same mechanic. I recognized him and his shop immediately after he shown the camera onn himself! Out of the entire world and even the US he is less than a mile away from me! Wow. Great mechanic!
That's because they use undersized bolts for the exhaust manifold. If you look in a machinery's hand books it explains this. Very poor design. Ford should cover the cost of this.
Ok Im a pro shop owner.. I didn't even start watching the video yet but I gotta say, you are ONE good looking gal, and if you can look that good as work on a car that's awesome you're hired!!!! Lol it truly brings a smile to my face to see you looking so good Ina mechanic shop environment! Keep it up! Now I'm gonna watch the repair lol
I have had good luck welding the broken stud first to build up a nub then weld a washer onto that, then weld on a nut. In some cases (with broken bolts not on Ford manifolds) I've even welded on an old screwdriver to have a fixed prybar to turn it.
Detroit 60 series semi truck exhaust bolt removal. 7018 3/32 rod cut in half ( tight space). Hone welder 90 bucks from amazon 120 setting. The nuts break lose early due to lack of fusion or wire/stick strength. Hammer the the weld flat as you create weld pool on broken stud. It helps break slag and unseize bolt. Tac on washer to weld stub, then a nut. I was able to snatch studs out using a makita impact, the studs were so nasty a impact was needed to get any movement. Do not use 60xx rods mild steel. Not strong enough when dealing with heavy vehicles.
I have done a few of these. Took motor mount.bolts out and jack up the engine a little. It gains a little more room. Good and hot gets em out. No 110v hf welder for this stuff.
Now, to make the job complete. Use brass hardware to reinstall the manifold. Brass studs in the heads and brass nuts to retain the manifold. Brass will not seize up like steel. Even the stainless steel will seize up.
I'm impressed only 6 nuts lol .. I'm up to 12 at the mo on a 6mm stud on a bike head . It ain't gonna beat me 1st 2 came out sweet no 3 is being a real pain . It works ya just need patience..
There's a kit for doing this, it's a steel sleeve with a nut on one end, you slide the sleeve into the blind hole then wire weld the sleeve to the broken fastener.
Using a copper tube can put the weld in the center like this without arc damage in the hole. But quench with penetrant. I'm sure they don't want the lube to catch fire. We had a rule for a fire watch guy with sprays of water ready to protect the customers vehicle. You could describe the process and get additional time. There wasn't video then so available. You had to get authorized by the manager.
@@dannylinc6247 Some lube could be a good idea unless maybe the weld breaks then it becomes a contaminant for the next attempt? The hollow steel sleeve already has a nut on one end.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 it's drawn into the thread when it's cast iron, that's mostly what we worked with, and this is aluminum. We had rusty dust down in our threads. The stud or bolt would get broken down from intense heat cycles and moist air around always in our climate.
@@dannylinc6247 Yes, heat will help to break any galvanic bonding that may have occured. The red dust is probably mostly oxidized iron/steel, aluminum will grow a white powder, a technical ceramic called aluminum oxide and can also be stubborn to break lose. I can't tell you how many aluminum gearcase operating in a salty environment I've wrestled with and couldn't split without destroying one side. Water can be used as a thread lube/solvent, and can work fairly well.
Use a torch to heat and then immediately cool the stud with water...do several times ...breaks the bond the stud has ..once the nut is welded .cool with water ..shrinks the stud ..
Those F-150's are the worst . . . When possible I use the torch to split the nut and get them off, then use a good stud extractor and heat to get the stud out... Usually by the time the job comes to me the owner (or somebody) has already snapped a couple off and I don't feel guilty about charging them the "Your an Idiot" and or "I don't feel like doing it" price . . .
Great job! What kind of cheap studs are they installing? Could it possibly be the aluminum head vs the steel bolt? Im surprised the threads don't get messed up when welding.
You will have better luck if you weld directly on the end of the stud without the nut in the way. When you have the weld built up to the point that it protrudes slightly from the hole sit the nut over the weld and then weld the nut to the previous weld.
@chadparrish9863 that's the route everyone takes it out the engine compartment. Remove the starter to access some bolts easier and give more room to work bud. Do it once and you will understand.
@chadparrish9863 I admire your optimistic approach. I bet you leave the pcm and pcm bracket on when removing the bank 1 valve cover on one of these too. Lol .WSNH
Thnak you soo much for shareing . Question why are you rocking the wrench as you're trying to remove the nut. Is due to space limitations or are you moveing it back and forward to loosen or remove the nut. Thanks
We had a f150 come in last month with 3 broken studs my boss made me pull the engine and he said he will fix it. It come from New York so yeah alot of rust and I got the engine in and it leaked bad so then he tells me to fix it I pulled the starter and a c compressor had to double gasket it but it's fixed glad I don't live in the rustbelt
Was any penetrant sprayed before first attempt at removal before it broke off . Would subsequent spraying prior to the attempts of removal have been , beneficial .
Why didn't Ford use better quality bolts? I am hearing that almost all 3.5 ecoboost break off the rear manifold stud. How is there not a recall, or a class action on this?
The reason it doesn’t come out easy is because the studs have a shoulder that when the factory installs them the shoulder runs down into the threads. That’s why they don’t come out easy for a 2 turns. Watch when you install the new ones. The nuts will further run the studs in farther.
I have a 2013 ford f150 3.5 with broken manifold studs. Will mig welding a nut to the broken stud get them out? Not sure about the material of block and threads. Anything I should worry about? I don’t want the weld material sticking to anything but the broken stud. They are halfway down inside the block..I’m thinking the threads are aluminum so weld material won’t stick to this but will stick to the cast iron block?
I have a 2008 Ford E 350 super duty 5.4 drivers side studs are broke off would it be better to take off the inner and outer finder to get to?? Has anyone even tried it??
Let the stud cool before trying to remove it. Drench it with penetrating oil as soon as it cools enough not to burn the oil then let it cool completely.
Mike, I believe so. Check out "Exhaust Leaks and Catalyst Efficiency" on TH-cam by the Automotive Technician. They talk about how there is vacuum in yhe system and how a leak can fool the o2 into thinking a lean condition is present. I have this issue on my '05 5.4 3V, that I need to fix. Best.
I had to do this on my Mini Cooper when I broke a valve cover bolt upon removal I just welded a smaller bolt and let it sit for a minute and spun right off. 🎉
this is to new a truck to have that happen. If scummy Ford used case hardened bolts in the exhaust manifold no one would have that problem. All these kind of problems are caused by DIABOLICAL ENGINEERING. Funny how cars made in Japan never ever have these kind of problems, every bolt for every part of the vehicle comes right out even 25 and 30 years later.I have never had a bolt break in a Japanese Vehicle car or truck. I am 54 yrs old and been wrenching for many many years.
Welding is the best method to remove these broken studs,I just did mine today just by watching this video in Liberia 🇱🇷 west Africa and I can tell you please take your time and watch this video to prepare you for this job. This video actually helped me build that confidence to change those 2 monster (Exhaust Manifold).this is the most effective method
Its pathetic that current auto manufacturers can no longer make a damn bolt that will stand up to heat cycles. Hell back in the 70's & 80's we not only never had this issue but some of us cheap %#&$ would reuse the exhaust and even head bolts.But as time went on now the manufacturers have figured out how to make money on repairs and now to us to the cleaners.Piss on this new crapp,Ill take an 80's or even a 70's truck any day over this new bullshit they are making these days.
Iv done this quite a few times on all domestic trucks. Dodge trucks, no problem. Chevy trucks I actually enjoy. Ford trucks fuck that!!! Iv never been able to make the weld stick well enough on a Ford to remove them. Whether it's accessibility or whatever. Never works for me.
@@ah4800 I have a 05 GMC, my buddy has a nice F150 with the Tritan 5.4 I think it is, its a real nice driver. I can't remember what year it is but I do like some of the Ford trucks. Not to be a dick but I just think they're ugly as hell and I like the GM stuff especially with a LS. What engine do the Fords have thats faster then the Chevs and GMCs? My friend told me his 3.5 was fast but I no nothing about newer Ford engines, he didn't know either but he seems pretty confident it's faster than a LS3.
@@ah4800 That's a lot of torque. So the 3.5 is a diesel? And whats with the Ford trucks that the engine turns off at a stop and then start back up when you hit the throttle. That shit would drive me insane. Kinda like Active Fule Management if a Chev or GMC, I'd tune that shit out on day 1. Luckily my 05 5.3 is super easy to tune and doesn't have any bullshit AFM.
I have a 02 f-150. Needs exhaust manifold. I'm selling truck. Getting an older restored truck and putting ceramic headers on it. I'm done with this newer cheap crap!
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Found it to be even more effective welding a flat washer on first. Then weld the nut to the washer. Using a slightly smaller ID washer than the fastener helps protect the aluminum.
That's almost what I was going to say and do. Came up with my idea lol but it's good people know good ideas n techniques
I find using a washer first allows easier initial weld.... i find welding the nut to the washer after is easier alsp
Have done similar things to remove broken bolts but never on a 5.4. Don't know how you found room to weld it and see it at the same time! Almost every repair is a pain on these engines. You're awesome!
I had an 04 V10 that had several broken bolts. They all broke off with part of the stud sticking out. Didn't do the welding, only used an easy out. Finally got all of them. Cleaned all the threads, new manifold and gasket, and out the door.....quietly! The exhaust can do a job to the aluminum, so it's best to fix the leak as quickly as possible.
You did a great repair!
Best video I have seen so far,Working on my 2010 f150 HD and 4 of these monsters are broken and this is hell😢.
I’m ready to follow these steps and I will be patient doing this,It’s not going to be easy but I’m going to do it.Thank you for this video!👏🏾
Thanks to you guys for this video,It save me lot of money in changing those monsters (exhaust manifold).I followed these same steps and I was able to remove 5 broken studs from Both sides.
This is no easy job,So I suggest anyone trying to do theirs should watch this video and get all the necessary tools and engine and transmission lift is a must.🙏🏽👏🏽
I don't have the patience or knowledge so that's why I come to your shop to work on my vehicle. You guys do a great job. Thanks
Really good information David and Tina appreciate that we never have to get into that unless we do an LS motor but we don’t take on those types of jobs are very difficult you’re the man and woman Team
Things never go this easy when I try to work on my vehicle. It seems like whatever can go wrong will
You must have my vehicles?
Same here buddy. Don’t feel too bad.
That’s what happens when you own a ford
I've seen plenty of chevys broke down.
Holy crap. Of the entire video I thought the mechanic actually sounded close to the same mechanic. I recognized him and his shop immediately after he shown the camera onn himself! Out of the entire world and even the US he is less than a mile away from me! Wow. Great mechanic!
Good instructional video on broken exhaust stud removal. Tedious process, however, great results.
That's because they use undersized bolts for the exhaust manifold. If you look in a machinery's hand books it explains this. Very poor design. Ford should cover the cost of this.
Ok Im a pro shop owner.. I didn't even start watching the video yet but I gotta say, you are ONE good looking gal, and if you can look that good as work on a car that's awesome you're hired!!!! Lol it truly brings a smile to my face to see you looking so good Ina mechanic shop environment! Keep it up! Now I'm gonna watch the repair lol
I have had good luck welding the broken stud first to build up a nub then weld a washer onto that, then weld on a nut. In some cases (with broken bolts not on Ford manifolds) I've even welded on an old screwdriver to have a fixed prybar to turn it.
I use the smallest diameter piece of copper tubing then weld through the copper to the remaing part of the stud. Keep building up the weld.
Great video Tina and David
Works better if you wait until the weld cools down completely. Good video!
Detroit 60 series semi truck exhaust bolt removal. 7018 3/32 rod cut in half ( tight space). Hone welder 90 bucks from amazon 120 setting. The nuts break lose early due to lack of fusion or wire/stick strength. Hammer the the weld flat as you create weld pool on broken stud. It helps break slag and unseize bolt. Tac on washer to weld stub, then a nut. I was able to snatch studs out using a makita impact, the studs were so nasty a impact was needed to get any movement. Do not use 60xx rods mild steel. Not strong enough when dealing with heavy vehicles.
A very good job on a difficult repair, thanks for sharing
Awesome job
Hey nice camera video articulation.
Excellent work
Good job
I have done a few of these. Took motor mount.bolts out and jack up the engine a little. It gains a little more room. Good and hot gets em out. No 110v hf welder for this stuff.
Damn, I was planning on doing it with my 110v hf welder
I have plenty of welders and I use a 115V Weld Pak 100 for this with no problems...
Or just dramo the bolts out first
Nice job Tina !!!
Now, to make the job complete. Use brass hardware to reinstall the manifold. Brass studs in the heads and brass nuts to retain the manifold. Brass will not seize up like steel. Even the stainless steel will seize up.
It will hold under the heat and torque? I didn’t think that would work….
@@GORT70 Remember international gas engines in pick-up trucks, delivery trucks and school busses? They all had brass hardware.
This is great you guys should do more of this kinda stuff
I just removed 4 broken bolts on my 243 heads.. the easiest method, took me 15 mins
Do you have to worry about frying electrical components while welding on the engine in the truck? If so what should I remove before welding
I'm impressed only 6 nuts lol .. I'm up to 12 at the mo on a 6mm stud on a bike head . It ain't gonna beat me 1st 2 came out sweet no 3 is being a real pain . It works ya just need patience..
There's a kit for doing this, it's a steel sleeve with a nut on one end, you slide the sleeve into the blind hole then wire weld the sleeve to the broken fastener.
Using a copper tube can put the weld in the center like this without arc damage in the hole.
But quench with penetrant.
I'm sure they don't want the lube to catch fire. We had a rule for a fire watch guy with sprays of water ready to protect the customers vehicle.
You could describe the process and get additional time.
There wasn't video then so available. You had to get authorized by the manager.
@@dannylinc6247 Some lube could be a good idea unless maybe the weld breaks then it becomes a contaminant for the next attempt?
The hollow steel sleeve already has a nut on one end.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 it's drawn into the thread when it's cast iron, that's mostly what we worked with, and this is aluminum.
We had rusty dust down in our threads.
The stud or bolt would get broken down from intense heat cycles and moist air around always in our climate.
@@dannylinc6247 Yes, heat will help to break any galvanic bonding that may have occured. The red dust is probably mostly oxidized iron/steel, aluminum will grow a white powder, a technical ceramic called aluminum oxide and can also be stubborn to break lose.
I can't tell you how many aluminum gearcase operating in a salty environment I've wrestled with and couldn't split without destroying one side. Water can be used as a thread lube/solvent, and can work fairly well.
Use a torch to heat and then immediately cool the stud with water...do several times ...breaks the bond the stud has ..once the nut is welded .cool with water ..shrinks the stud ..
The EZ STUD OUT template works good
Those F-150's are the worst . . .
When possible I use the torch to split the nut and get them off, then use a good stud extractor and heat to get the stud out...
Usually by the time the job comes to me the owner (or somebody) has already snapped a couple off and I don't feel guilty about charging them the "Your an Idiot" and or "I don't feel like doing it" price . . .
The explorers are worse. I bought one and worked with the used car place to repair it(he had a bay and lift). I had to bring a welder.
Great job! What kind of cheap studs are they installing? Could it possibly be the aluminum head vs the steel bolt? Im surprised the threads don't get messed up when welding.
No it only really gets rusty around the cast iron manifold causing it to snap flush with the head. Thats why the stud threads are clean
Thanks for the tip.
Hi David n Tina miss yah all hope life n family well
I like using washers then weld nut to waters
Very nice explanation
You will have better luck if you weld directly on the end of the stud without the nut in the way. When you have the weld built up to the point that it protrudes slightly from the hole sit the nut over the weld and then weld the nut to the previous weld.
Good work and looking lovely lady ❤️
You fought that manifold out with the starter still on. Jeesh
Every one I do I don't take starter out. Manifold comes out better between the frame and motor just below the ac dryer.
@chadparrish9863 that's the route everyone takes it out the engine compartment. Remove the starter to access some bolts easier and give more room to work bud. Do it once and you will understand.
No need to take the starter out plenty of room.
@chadparrish9863 I admire your optimistic approach. I bet you leave the pcm and pcm bracket on when removing the bank 1 valve cover on one of these too. Lol .WSNH
That's really helpful
Curious where you grounded the welder
Way better than drilling them out
Thnak you soo much for shareing .
Question why are you rocking the wrench as you're trying to remove the nut. Is due to space limitations or are you moveing it back and forward to loosen or remove the nut.
Thanks
We had a f150 come in last month with 3 broken studs my boss made me pull the engine and he said he will fix it. It come from New York so yeah alot of rust and I got the engine in and it leaked bad so then he tells me to fix it I pulled the starter and a c compressor had to double gasket it but it's fixed glad I don't live in the rustbelt
Nice job
Was any penetrant sprayed before first attempt at removal before it broke off . Would subsequent spraying prior to the attempts of removal have been , beneficial .
Good work
I call these shark teeth. save them and make a necklace
Great tip
Why didn't Ford use better quality bolts? I am hearing that almost all 3.5 ecoboost break off the rear manifold stud. How is there not a recall, or a class action on this?
Because no one will die in the event of a broken exhaust manifold bolt.
The reason it doesn’t come out easy is because the studs have a shoulder that when the factory installs them the shoulder runs down into the threads. That’s why they don’t come out easy for a 2 turns. Watch when you install the new ones. The nuts will further run the studs in farther.
I have a 2013 ford f150 3.5 with broken manifold studs. Will mig welding a nut to the broken stud get them out? Not sure about the material of block and threads. Anything I should worry about? I don’t want the weld material sticking to anything but the broken stud. They are halfway down inside the block..I’m thinking the threads are aluminum so weld material won’t stick to this but will stick to the cast iron block?
Use a socket at that far out even if it's a shorty
I have a 2008 Ford E 350 super duty 5.4 drivers side studs are broke off would it be better to take off the inner and outer finder to get to?? Has anyone even tried it??
Where do you put the grounding clamp
all those studs should be replaced with new ones
Let the stud cool before trying to remove it. Drench it with penetrating oil as soon as it cools enough not to burn the oil then let it cool completely.
Can a cheap Harbor Freight flux core welder, remove the broken manifold studs?
If you can get good heat yes but don't use a fluxcore. I use a millermatic 200. It's a big dinosaur but works well.
Absolutely! Don’t listen to the clown commenter below talking about you need a miller 🤡 any cheap mig /flux core welder will work
automakers declared war on 3/8 bolts
Wow Where did you learn that trick? Great way to remove a bolt.
👍👍👍
What do you not use some petreinoil on the pinbolt..
👌
My 2009 F150 has some broken. I wonder if the exhaust leak could contribute to some slightly high long fuel trim values?
Mike, I believe so. Check out "Exhaust Leaks and Catalyst Efficiency" on TH-cam by the Automotive Technician. They talk about how there is vacuum in yhe system and how a leak can fool the o2 into thinking a lean condition is present. I have this issue on my '05 5.4 3V, that I need to fix. Best.
That looks like a pain in the ass!
It's a Ford thing for sure...
I've done this for year's been there done that
Yep I've been there in that same situation it's not fun.
Did you try to heat those bolts before removal?
I had to do this on my Mini Cooper when I broke a valve cover bolt upon removal I just welded a smaller bolt and let it sit for a minute and spun right off. 🎉
Apply some heat from torch. A little WD40
Tina need help on 2001 dodge ram could u help me on my question
How are the threads not messed up when welding?
Because it's aluminum steel won't stick to aluminum
How much would a job like this cost? I have a 2016 f150 3.5 eco that has a leak on both sides now. Need to get this done asap .
Its way easier on the newer trucks. The older 5.4 are the joke
CAN I ASK YOU IF YOU DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY ON THE TRUCK TO PROTECT THE COMPUTER AND COMPONENTS IN THE TRUCK?
a great big YES
yes we did by the way lol
this is to new a truck to have that happen. If scummy Ford used case hardened bolts in the exhaust manifold no one would have that problem. All these kind of problems are caused by DIABOLICAL ENGINEERING. Funny how cars made in Japan never ever have these kind of problems, every bolt for every part of the vehicle comes right out even 25 and 30 years later.I have never had a bolt break in a Japanese Vehicle car or truck. I am 54 yrs old and been wrenching for many many years.
Now can you do this on a 99 to 06 sierra
I do that all the time
I find it a lot easier to just burn all the nuts off the manifold the use a stud extractor works 95% for the time and is faster
My thought exactly, dramo the nuts out
If you own one of these....... you have broken bolts............
did u lift the motor up a bit
Any other way to remove it ? If i don’t have a welder ?
Welding is the best method to remove these broken studs,I just did mine today just by watching this video in Liberia 🇱🇷 west Africa and I can tell you please take your time and watch this video to prepare you for this job.
This video actually helped me build that confidence to change those 2 monster (Exhaust Manifold).this is the most effective method
Dang!
Ratcheting wrench?
Do you have to take the starter out
Yes
No
Jack the engine up?
Bad ass.
Between the manifold bolts and the starter bolts on Ford trucks UHH
wonder how this works on a cast iron head?
the same ..steel weld does not weld to aluminum or cast iron..
Oh my God just put an air ratchet on it already!
Its pathetic that current auto manufacturers can no longer make a damn bolt that will stand up to heat cycles. Hell back in the 70's & 80's we not only never had this issue but some of us cheap %#&$ would reuse the exhaust and even head bolts.But as time went on now the manufacturers have figured out how to make money on repairs and now to us to the cleaners.Piss on this new crapp,Ill take an 80's or even a 70's truck any day over this new bullshit they are making these days.
чого його так поплющило?
Iv done this quite a few times on all domestic trucks. Dodge trucks, no problem. Chevy trucks I actually enjoy. Ford trucks fuck that!!! Iv never been able to make the weld stick well enough on a Ford to remove them. Whether it's accessibility or whatever. Never works for me.
The real question, what’s a job like that cost on average ?
more than the trucks worth
I can diagnose ANY Ford. If you look on the grill in between the headlights you'll see a blue oval, there's your problem.
Only any f150 2011 and after wipes the floor with gmc lol
@@ah4800 I have a 05 GMC, my buddy has a nice F150 with the Tritan 5.4 I think it is, its a real nice driver. I can't remember what year it is but I do like some of the Ford trucks. Not to be a dick but I just think they're ugly as hell and I like the GM stuff especially with a LS. What engine do the Fords have thats faster then the Chevs and GMCs? My friend told me his 3.5 was fast but I no nothing about newer Ford engines, he didn't know either but he seems pretty confident it's faster than a LS3.
@@DM-qp7do the 3.5s are impressive. 420 ft lbs of tq at diesel like low rpm
@@ah4800 That's a lot of torque. So the 3.5 is a diesel? And whats with the Ford trucks that the engine turns off at a stop and then start back up when you hit the throttle. That shit would drive me insane. Kinda like Active Fule Management if a Chev or GMC, I'd tune that shit out on day 1. Luckily my 05 5.3 is super easy to tune and doesn't have any bullshit AFM.
@@DM-qp7do no its gas
I FIND IT EASIER TO WELD A FLAT WASHER ON FIRST, BECAUSE YOR'RE NOT HAVING TO DEAL WITH THE THICKNESS OF THE NUT. THAN WELD THE NUT TO THE WASHER.
F150s when it comes to removing Manifolds they suck bad
I only clicked on this because of her, were did she go?
I have a 02 f-150. Needs exhaust manifold. I'm selling truck. Getting an older restored truck and putting ceramic headers on it. I'm done with this newer cheap crap!
U look very beautiful 😍