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Hi FTM, do you ever have a problem with a timing guide dowel broken? I'm having that problem right now and I don't know what to do, can you please give me an idea of what to do? I really appreciate you help.
I know what my method is going to be since i have a manifold leak on mine. Drive it till the rocker arm noise ruins my engine, ignore the manifold leak till that happens. Send the vehicle to the scrap yard. Drive one of my other vehicles till i find a japeneese replacement for my suv. Then buy a 4 runner or qx56 or similar and happily never own a ford again. None the less I thank you for showing this method and I am sure one day i will find it useful. Just because i am not a ford guy doesn't mean that i have any hate for anyone that is. I find ford to be difficult but i am more of a toyota/Lexus or Nissan/Infiniti kind of person. Btw if anyone wondered why I own a Ford but dislike working on them, my wife found it while she was in the hospital after having our child and liked it. Me being the nice husband i am, went and bought it and then the following day picked her and my child up in it. I bought it because she liked it.
In the past I have used a similar process by first welding a heavy flat washer followed by the nut. Sometimes have better luck getting good penetration on stud by not having to weld in a hole. Sometimes welder wants to arc to side of nut rather than stud. If you encounter a problem,it's easier than having the nut twist off and having to clean out hole to begin the process again.
I used a Fender Washer welded to the Stud or Nub, then a Large Nut centered on the Washer and welded to the Washer. A Nut twice the diameter of the Stud allows for plenty of material to be welded to both the Stud/Nub and the Washer. A correctly sized Fender Washer will protect the head surface and provide good clearance to weld the nut to the Stud/Nub. The Large Nut allows for plenty of weld material to be added to the Washer and the material on top of it. I did six on one side a few years ago. Ford had driven the studs so deep into the head that the non-threaded fat section of the studs were actually grooved by the ALU opening.
I struggled for 2 nights trying to get a nut to weld on but couldn’t. I got some big flat washers and did what you said. Got 3 out in about a total of 25 minutes. Thanks for posting this!
Awsome tip and it works amazing. I did it alittle different every stud was stuck in the head. Welded nuts on the studs heated the studs with torch until cherry red and presto. They all came out and didnt have to drill 1. Also I did this on the truck. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the tip.
Another outstanding video! The two rear studs rotted off my 2010 5.4l, and the two front studs snapped while trying to remove them. Drilling the rear studs and trying an extractor failed. All four studs were really stuck in the head and getting a drill up front was not going to happen. Using my mig welder to build up a nub on the studs then welding a nut on the stub got the job done on all four studs. The job is a pain the ass but the cost saving is huge. I was very reluctant to try welding as I figured I would really mess things up and have to replace the heads. All I can say is trust in your ability and go for it. Thank you so much for your videos, they are life savers!!!
I used your technique today to remove 3 broken exhaust studs from a 3.4L Chevy V-6 and it worked perfectly. I'm very thankful for this video as I had exhausted (no pun intended) all the other options I've used in the past so I started looking around TH-cam for other idea's and most were methods I had already tried until I happened upon yours. I was a little apprehensive at first but it worked so well it was like taking candy from a baby (never thought I would use that term in conjunction with removing broken studs). Anyway, thanks again for posting the video and sleep well tonight knowing you helped a fellow gearhead out of broken stud hell.
I've been using this method for years. So much more effective than a drill and stud extractor. I spend a fair amount if time cozied up to 5.4's, so anything to make life easier is appreciated & utilized.
I recently removed a broken #6-32 tap from new aluminum, broke at about 1/2" deep, by tig welding a 3/16" tall spire with .045" tig filler rod, then took a 4" length of 3/32 tig rod and bent a half inch long 90deg at the end and welded it to the spire. Twisted right out. Smallest tap I have ever removed in my 53 years.
I know this is old, but I just posted a comment. Your method may have worked for my situation if I owned a tig welder. However read my comment and curious if this is what you ran into: I used a plasma cutter and bolt extractor and air hammer! My driver side is the most difficult stud to reach on the 2005 Ford F150 5.4. It was corroded inside the block, not flush. 1st method failed (welding). Even with my engine hoisted off the mounts a few inches, it was extremely difficult to try and reach this with my wire feed as the weld puddle would not stay inside because of the angle. 2nd method attempt failed. Used a right angle drill attachment to with a tungsten harden drill bit, so i could make a piolet hole for the bolt extractor. This bit broken inside and fused to the broken bolt. 3rd attempt was successful! Took the plasma cutter and very carefully burned a hole inside the broken drill bit until it was large enough to insert the bolt extractor. However, this proved to be difficult because i could not hit the extractor in with a hammer due to the lack of clearance. I took my small air hammer bit and drilled a bore hole that i could slip the extractor bolt into. This allowed me to hammer the extractor into the stud, and I was able to back out the broken stud! Note: if you plan on welding or using my method, i recommend using aluminum foil by 1st, covering those inside the manifolds' holes. 2nd i used an aluminum pie pan and drilled a hole and place over the studs to prevent pitting the block. I have a few photos to show each pain in the rear it took to remove these studs .
@@GAMESFORUSdotNET The method I explained is for very small screws and taps. #6-32 is slightly larger than 1/8" diameter. For exhaust studs, typically 8mm or 5/16", I would use the FordTechMakuloco method. The only thing I would add to the FTM method would be to use a small oxy-acetylene brazing tip, (not a rosebud) to carefully heat the broken stud to glowing red and allow to cool completely before welding the nut on. This will expand the broken stud within the hole and break the corrosion and when the stud cools it might even be possible to screw the stud out with a reverse drill bit. I like the pie pan suggestion to protect the surrounding aluminum. Also, never weld on a zinc coated anything due to toxic zinc vapors and zinc is hard to weld thru. Use an uncoated nut.
Love that trick man. I’ve used t countless times and I’m now deemed the broken bolt guy at our shop. I like running mine on the hot side. Usually build a small nub up then burn the nut on afterwords
Thank you so much for this video and tip. I had known about and have welded nuts onto broken studs, but never had to deal with a stud broken sub-flush inside the head. It took me three tries to get it right - the third time I sanded the top of the broken stud, and built it up enough to get a nut on it, and welded the nut on it, and it came out. Save me a lot of time from drilling it out. I am replacing the exhaust manifolds on my 2002 F150, 4.6L, and all the studs except for one, had to have nuts welded onto them. The one that broke sub flush, broke after I welded a nut onto it. I would never have considered the fact that the weld would not stick to aluminum. Thanks again!
Dude!!!! I can't thank you enough for showing me this!!! I would buy you a cold beer right fucking now if you were here. You literly saved me hours and hours of work!! Thank you soooooo much!!!
I also use this method...Another tip is while the bolt is cooling down(not red) add a little bit of beeswax as close as you can to the threads. It'll draw right in and make it easier to get the bolt out without turning back and forth as much. Use caution as beeswax is flamable though!!!
Yep, I like this method for removing broken bolts/studs. Good tip. But instead of welding the nut onto the Bolt , I first weld on a washer. It is narrower, so it is a little easier to get the welding wire down to the broken bolt. Once the washer is welded on firmly, I weld a scrap nut onto the outside of the washer.
@@weldingjunkie I've wondered that since he said this, but he has notifications off or didn't see it. I thought about his washer, but I couldn't imagine how it was helpful. I could see how the nut would weld with even less contact unless maybe it sat inside the bolt?
@@weldingjunkie I believe by the "outside" of the washer, he means the side of the washer facing away from the engine...however, I could be wrong, it's happened before.
I can’t believe it! Big thumbs up! I’m working on that Ford 4.0 sohc and Makuloco... 10 stars bro! First walking me through the timing process, and while I’m in the gasket, carbon build up clean up process, and just finishing valve seal replacement... I figured I’d see about removing the 2 broken exhaust manifold studs so I can be completely done with this right side head. I couldn’t believe it when this video popped up in my ‘tool’ search. Frickin’ Perfect! I’m a union ironworker local 433, welder. Your welds passed this test lol all that matters right. Now I gotta see if I can get this to work for me. Big thumbs up on all videos I’ve need thus far. Thank you.
Thank you for posting this. There is a technique I use to keep from twisting off rusted bolts, nuts and studs. If I suspect a fastener is really stuck from it's appearance or it's refusal to turn with a reasonable force from a wrench, I first use a penetrating fluid. After that, I use a 3/8 drive air wrench or even a butterfly air wrench with Metrinch sockets if there is room, and the air pressure turned down at first. The rapid chattering has loosened many fasteners for me over the years, preventing further welding, drilling, using EZ Outs, re-threading or whatever. When there are no rubber seals, explosives or other fire hazards nearby, I heat the surrounding area if needed with a small torch, or a acetylene torch for big stuff, but not to the point of heating the stuck fastener itself because it will also expand. This expands the steel, aluminum or cast iron away from the stuck fastener. Although the expansion may be only one thousandth of a inch or less, it's enough to free it. But it's really aggravating when fasteners are literally rusted away or twisted off flush. Again, thanks for sharing this video.
Always easier to work on an engine that’s out of the vehicle. But none the less excellent advice to give out there to everybody. Kudos for taking the time to share!
I'm lucky enough to weld fairly well, and TIG weld. I've used my welder so many times to extract studs/bolts I lost count. I think over half of my 7.3 exhaust studs required welding on a nut. Invaluable tool to have in your arsenal.
Man I appreciate this. I've got to remove a broken stud right behind the passenger turbo on a 15 F150 in the morning. Having to replace all the turbo coolant fittings. I'm no welder but I feel fairly confident I can do this. Then, maybe I can wrap this miserable job up.
Nice trick, I'll remember this when i do my 97 f150. A few of em are nearly gone, look like rivites, so this method might be my only choice. It would be my guess, the heat from the weld is actually aiding in the stud removal process, so you get a two for one solution here.
I've had to do this a couple of times at my ford dealership for some of the techs. It works pretty well. Did it on a 2008 4.6L explorer and a 2016 transit with a 3.5 eco boost. Worked both times.
Very helpful and informative information brother, they are getting tighter and tighter with less and less room, right angle drill a must, so tired of drilling in almost impossible to reach areas, but after almost 20 years of trying different techniques this is definitely one of my favorite, thanks for the vids, keep up the good work and keep wrenching, nothing like diagnosing and fixing something nobody else can or will, you know everybody's a mechanic.
Great tutorial, Brian... Thank you! Really hoping I don't break any studs when I tackle replacing the cracked driver-side exhaust manifold on my 2006 Mark LT. If I do I know this instructional video will be helpful.
Great video! I just got ripped off from a shop who failed to remove one of the manifold bolts on my 2000 ford explorer 5.0. I need to get another small welder to try this method.
did both manifolds on 98 expedition 4.6. cut studs flush with manifold then removed. (I had access to air arc to cut in to pieces) then heated studs red not manifold twice allowing to cool in between, then used 3 jaws stud remover pushed against block to prevent angle twisting. All 16 came out easy 1-2 minutes each. Big thing is breaking rust bond by heating twice (expand /contract)
Ford T. Great Video. My 45 years taught me to put strip of duct tape down whole cylinder head,who cares if it melts ,then put a button of weld right on center of stud,build up if needed,then use needle vise grips,if that dont work ,then you have a shaft to slide nut over then weld nut as last attempt . Waist of wire good 1. I.M.O.
Good job Brian - - -I have done this many times over - drilling then using a easy out ( extractor ) is not the way to go because the easy out tap will break off as you know your self by using them . Good video .
I had never welded before, but I recently took a crack at this. My 4Runner had 7 (of 12) broken/stuck exhaust studs. I bought an Eastwood welder, loaded it with a spool of flux wire, practiced for about five minutes on some scrap metal, and then went to town on the exhaust studs. I wasted about 10 nuts on the first stud, but I eventually got it out. The second nut spun out on the first try. I have to buy some more nuts before I go after the remaining studs, but I feel that I'm on my way. In these comments, I read about people warning of welding coated steel, so what I did was soak deez nutz in some vinegar overnight. This dissolves the coating, leaving you with bare steel. Works well, though be warned that rust sets up in minutes, if you don't protect them (WD40 works well for this) after taking them out of the vinegar.
I used a plasma cutter and bolt extractor and air hammer! My driver side is the most difficult stud to reach on the 2005 Ford F150 5.4. It was corroded inside the block, not flush. 1st method failed (welding). Even with my engine hoisted off the mounts a few inches, it was extremely difficult to try and reach this with my wire feed as the weld puddle would not stay inside because of the angle. 2nd method attempt failed. Used a right angle drill attachment to with a tungsten harden drill bit, so i could make a piolet hole for the bolt extractor. This bit broken inside and fused to the broken bolt. 3rd attempt was successful! Took the plasma cutter and very carefully burned a hole inside the broken drill bit until it was large enough to insert the bolt extractor. However, this proved to be difficult because i could not hit the extractor in with a hammer due to the lack of clearance. I took my small air hammer bit and drilled a bore hole that i could slip the extractor bolt into. This allowed me to hammer the extractor into the stud, and I was able to back out the broken stud! Note: if you plan on welding or using my method, i recommend using aluminum foil by 1st, covering those inside the manifolds' holes. 2nd i used an aluminum pie pan and drilled a hole and place over the studs to prevent pitting the block. I have a few photos to show each pain in the rear it took to remove these studs . Great video
Welding right to the broken stud works too, a local machine shop that does these regularly told me that the first two to three threads are always the ones that seize, if you grind down one eighth, they'll unwind every time.
To help improve the welding with a mig, don't use a ZINC nut! the gas it emits messes with the weld in a BAD way! So, collect a few of the plain black steel nets for this purpose.
@@FordTechMakuloco Well, they are hard to find if you just look at the hardware stores, but LOTs of the actual factory bolts and nuts are NOT Zinc coated, but YES the ones they get you from their nut and bolt bin are ZINC! (and I do mean at the dealers) Look at your second step weld (not the tack) if you notice there is a volcano little crown in it!!! That is from the gasses emitted from the ZINC, trapped paints will do this as well! (I'm not a welder either) but I've seen this many times over the past 20 years or so, the one thing about mig welding is CLEAN, untreated steel is what it was designed for. I'm very impressed with your skill and your video but if you keep an eye out for just some common grey or the black nuts (used) and toss them in a jar or small plastic tub you'll find they will weld better, EVERYTHING that isn't steel screws with the mig weld. I'm just trying to give you some pointers! Also! the fumes from Zinc (galvanized) is EXTREMELY toxic if you breath very much of it. Those volcanoes in the weld is from something contaminating molten metal during the welding process, even oxygen messes with it, that's the purpose of the flux, or if used the gas shielding that's in a mig welding setup.
great tutorial got do just that on my bike stud is about quarter exterior but figure do they seize good works in my day all had was clymer manual for my sled or what can not say more here in north ontario where few specalties here
Currently trying this on my 01 expedition I got on a great deal. 1 of three out today. Was really having a penetration issue. I think I'm gonna try the bigger nuts and build up the nubs a bit. I will fix this thing.
My stepson is at this point on an exhaust manifold or a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Hemi engine in it, He had four or so that wasn't broke but the heads of them were rusted to little nubs! I torched the head off from ALL of them and we got the manifold off, and with LOTS of work we got a couple of the long stemmed bolts out but they didn't just unscrew like the ones in these video's, it was more like a thread locker had been use, which in most cases the extreme heat will unset the thread locker, but his studs are seized in the heads, and he had three of them that were just broke off at the head and we NEVER put a wrench to them, they just broke sometime in the past on their own, I think that's what caused the manifold to start leaking to begin with!
Welding is a good trade to know. I've been welding for 18 years for my current employer and I do it on the side at home. I taught my 13 year old son how to weld at the age of 9. Currently teaching my wife the trade as well. As far as your technique goes, whatever works, works. You're not building rockets with all of the red tape hoopla. Great job!
I am a sh@t welder, never had luck welding a nut on. I just booger weld out and make a goop with weld. Then use Irwin bolt-grip extractor (they come in different sizes a kit) to grab on the weld and unscrew it out.
Something else that works really well is if you can get a small hammer in there and tap on the welded nut. Its double trouble on the stud. Heat and a little shock
FordTechMakuloco I'm no expert, but I would think zinc and galvanized would be worse given the higher zinc content in both. There doesn't seem to be any zinc in black oxide coatings.
I put zinc or galvanized stuff in my gas forge (outside) to burn off the zinc. Then its safe to weld on. Option B is to hold your breath while welding since its a very short weld, then step away from the smoke.
They are both bad, I have had flu like systems for several days after welding on these coatings on a job, I use a good filter now lol when I weld on them for any length of time, I think it depends on how much you are exposed to the fumes.
There’s something so satisfying about this such a relief when it comes out like popping a big zit lol It’s a b******d when your manifold studs break very good video, I may have to attempt this on my Porsche when I replace the headers only difference is I will be upside down , and remember Folks “ISOLATE THE CAR!!” When welding disconnect the battery very important....
Welding galvanized things is bad for you, because you might breathe in zinc fumes. You can take the zinc coating off the nuts by soaking overnight or so in vinegar. Soak until they stop bubbling.
I had 8 of 10 bolts either break or round off replacing the intake manifold in my 5.4 2v. It took a lot of tries, as I kept twisting the nuts off the studs but this tip saved my bacon big time! Gave me the confidence to go after the exhaust manifold that’s been ticking for a year
Does the orientation matter? Would it work if piece is laying flat - would the spatter stick to the surface? What wire would you recommend - someone mentioned it should be Carbon Steel flux core - is this true? Thnx
Thanks for another great informative video! I really appreciate all your videos. I can imagine they take quite a bit of time to produce. Your shop is fantastic.. Like an operating room. Dan
I have a 2013 ford f150 3.5 with broken manifold studs. Will mig welding a nut to the broken thing get them out? Not sure about the material of block and threads. Anything I should worry about? I don’t want the weld material sticking to anything but the broken stud. They are halfway down inside the block..
I have had to drill down to the studs to wait the threads out weld a washer and then weld a nut to the washer I find it a lot easier to weld a washer then a nut
ill probably be the one guy here to get all the hates, but it took me many years to figure this out on my own. It is a great procedure, and I use it every time, but it's not valuing the techs that have spent many years to develop this method. I came from the school of hard knocks.
I broke an extractor off in the block, bottom very front port. Tried welding, about 30 times, but it wouldn't stick. Any suggestions out there? Am using a Lincoln 140, never welded anything in my life.
I'm thinking I need to replace the manifolds on an old rusty F250 (1997)... mentally preparing myself to deal with the broken studs. Doesn't look too bad at all.
I got to wondering, saw comments that it is only the first few stud threads that freeze in place so why wouldn't a guy want to heat every stud prior to attempting removal and risking a break off? I'd rather deal with pinpointing an fine single acetylene flame cone...say a "0" or a #"1" welding tip adjusted to keep the flame manageable yet adequate to break the steel/aluminum lockup.
In the process of tearing down my 02 6.8 Liter with 700k miles on her and broke a few of the bolts taking the manifolds of. Very deep breaks. I am going to try this but would it help if I used a little piece of copper tube that barely fits in the hole to protect the threads and then added the weld?
Nice ,,,,,,,,,,,, i use a washer then weld the nut to washer u get better heat penetration,,,,, sometimes the nut makes it to deep to weld to the broken stud
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Hi FTM, do you ever have a problem with a timing guide dowel broken? I'm having that problem right now and I don't know what to do, can you please give me an idea of what to do? I really appreciate you help.
Sorry, I forget to mention,07 expedition 5.4
Hey there, do you use flux wire or non flux wire for this weld?
@@JT-un7dc I'm pretty sure he said flux core during the first few minutes. May want to rewatch again to verify.
I know what my method is going to be since i have a manifold leak on mine. Drive it till the rocker arm noise ruins my engine, ignore the manifold leak till that happens. Send the vehicle to the scrap yard. Drive one of my other vehicles till i find a japeneese replacement for my suv. Then buy a 4 runner or qx56 or similar and happily never own a ford again.
None the less I thank you for showing this method and I am sure one day i will find it useful. Just because i am not a ford guy doesn't mean that i have any hate for anyone that is.
I find ford to be difficult but i am more of a toyota/Lexus or Nissan/Infiniti kind of person.
Btw if anyone wondered why I own a Ford but dislike working on them, my wife found it while she was in the hospital after having our child and liked it. Me being the nice husband i am, went and bought it and then the following day picked her and my child up in it. I bought it because she liked it.
In the past I have used a similar process by first welding a heavy flat washer followed by the nut. Sometimes have better luck getting good penetration on stud by not having to weld in a hole. Sometimes welder wants to arc to side of nut rather than stud. If you encounter a problem,it's easier than having the nut twist off and having to clean out hole to begin the process again.
I used a Fender Washer welded to the Stud or Nub, then a Large Nut centered on the Washer and welded to the Washer. A Nut twice the diameter of the Stud allows for plenty of material to be welded to both the Stud/Nub and the Washer.
A correctly sized Fender Washer will protect the head surface and provide good clearance to weld the nut to the Stud/Nub. The Large Nut allows for plenty of weld material to be added to the Washer and the material on top of it.
I did six on one side a few years ago.
Ford had driven the studs so deep into the head that the non-threaded fat section of the studs were actually grooved by the ALU opening.
I struggled for 2 nights trying to get a nut to weld on but couldn’t. I got some big flat washers and did what you said. Got 3 out in about a total of 25 minutes. Thanks for posting this!
Awsome tip and it works amazing. I did it alittle different every stud was stuck in the head. Welded nuts on the studs heated the studs with torch until cherry red and presto. They all came out and didnt have to drill 1. Also I did this on the truck. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the tip.
Another outstanding video! The two rear studs rotted off my 2010 5.4l, and the two front studs snapped while trying to remove them. Drilling the rear studs and trying an extractor failed. All four studs were really stuck in the head and getting a drill up front was not going to happen. Using my mig welder to build up a nub on the studs then welding a nut on the stub got the job done on all four studs. The job is a pain the ass but the cost saving is huge. I was very reluctant to try welding as I figured I would really mess things up and have to replace the heads. All I can say is trust in your ability and go for it. Thank you so much for your videos, they are life savers!!!
I used your technique today to remove 3 broken exhaust studs from a 3.4L Chevy V-6 and it worked perfectly. I'm very thankful for this video as I had exhausted (no pun intended) all the other options I've used in the past so I started looking around TH-cam for other idea's and most were methods I had already tried until I happened upon yours. I was a little apprehensive at first but it worked so well it was like taking candy from a baby (never thought I would use that term in conjunction with removing broken studs). Anyway, thanks again for posting the video and sleep well tonight knowing you helped a fellow gearhead out of broken stud hell.
I've been using this method for years. So much more effective than a drill and stud extractor. I spend a fair amount if time cozied up to 5.4's, so anything to make life easier is appreciated & utilized.
I recently removed a broken #6-32 tap from new aluminum, broke at about 1/2" deep, by tig welding a 3/16" tall spire with .045" tig filler rod, then took a 4" length of 3/32 tig rod and bent a half inch long 90deg at the end and welded it to the spire. Twisted right out. Smallest tap I have ever removed in my 53 years.
I know this is old, but I just posted a comment. Your method may have worked for my situation if I owned a tig welder. However read my comment and curious if this is what you ran into:
I used a plasma cutter and bolt extractor and air hammer! My driver side is the most difficult stud to reach on the 2005 Ford F150 5.4. It was corroded inside the block, not flush. 1st method failed (welding). Even with my engine hoisted off the mounts a few inches, it was extremely difficult to try and reach this with my wire feed as the weld puddle would not stay inside because of the angle. 2nd method attempt failed. Used a right angle drill attachment to with a tungsten harden drill bit, so i could make a piolet hole for the bolt extractor. This bit broken inside and fused to the broken bolt. 3rd attempt was successful! Took the plasma cutter and very carefully burned a hole inside the broken drill bit until it was large enough to insert the bolt extractor. However, this proved to be difficult because i could not hit the extractor in with a hammer due to the lack of clearance. I took my small air hammer bit and drilled a bore hole that i could slip the extractor bolt into. This allowed me to hammer the extractor into the stud, and I was able to back out the broken stud! Note: if you plan on welding or using my method, i recommend using aluminum foil by 1st, covering those inside the manifolds' holes. 2nd i used an aluminum pie pan and drilled a hole and place over the studs to prevent pitting the block. I have a few photos to show each pain in the rear it took to remove these studs .
@@GAMESFORUSdotNET The method I explained is for very small screws and taps. #6-32 is slightly larger than 1/8" diameter. For exhaust studs, typically 8mm or 5/16", I would use the FordTechMakuloco method. The only thing I would add to the FTM method would be to use a small oxy-acetylene brazing tip, (not a rosebud) to carefully heat the broken stud to glowing red and allow to cool completely before welding the nut on. This will expand the broken stud within the hole and break the corrosion and when the stud cools it might even be possible to screw the stud out with a reverse drill bit. I like the pie pan suggestion to protect the surrounding aluminum. Also, never weld on a zinc coated anything due to toxic zinc vapors and zinc is hard to weld thru. Use an uncoated nut.
Love that trick man. I’ve used t countless times and I’m now deemed the broken bolt guy at our shop. I like running mine on the hot side. Usually build a small nub up then burn the nut on afterwords
I guess I'm not to old to learn. I didn't know this procedure. Good job and Thanks
Thank you. I just removed four broken bolts from a set of ls heads. Your method worked great!!!!
Thank you so much for this video and tip. I had known about and have welded nuts onto broken studs, but never had to deal with a stud broken sub-flush inside the head. It took me three tries to get it right - the third time I sanded the top of the broken stud, and built it up enough to get a nut on it, and welded the nut on it, and it came out. Save me a lot of time from drilling it out. I am replacing the exhaust manifolds on my 2002 F150, 4.6L, and all the studs except for one, had to have nuts welded onto them. The one that broke sub flush, broke after I welded a nut onto it. I would never have considered the fact that the weld would not stick to aluminum. Thanks again!
Dude!!!! I can't thank you enough for showing me this!!! I would buy you a cold beer right fucking now if you were here. You literly saved me hours and hours of work!! Thank you soooooo much!!!
Something so satisfying about seeing a brother pull a broken stuf
I also use this method...Another tip is while the bolt is cooling down(not red) add a little bit of beeswax as close as you can to the threads. It'll draw right in and make it easier to get the bolt out without turning back and forth as much. Use caution as beeswax is flamable though!!!
My Man!!!! I cant thank you enough for sharing this ... saved me a ton of time and money... Great Job .. All the best Billy
Yep, I like this method for removing broken bolts/studs. Good tip. But instead of welding the nut onto the Bolt , I first weld on a washer. It is narrower, so it is a little easier to get the welding wire down to the broken bolt. Once the washer is welded on firmly, I weld a scrap nut onto the outside of the washer.
Good idea.
So you don’t weld right into the middle? What do you mean by outside the washer
@@weldingjunkie I've wondered that since he said this, but he has notifications off or didn't see it.
I thought about his washer, but I couldn't imagine how it was helpful. I could see how the nut would weld with even less contact unless maybe it sat inside the bolt?
DE Nichols yeah doesn’t make sense to me at all either. Just went the middle lol
@@weldingjunkie I believe by the "outside" of the washer, he means the side of the washer facing away from the engine...however, I could be wrong, it's happened before.
I can’t believe it! Big thumbs up! I’m working on that Ford 4.0 sohc and Makuloco... 10 stars bro! First walking me through the timing process, and while I’m in the gasket, carbon build up clean up process, and just finishing valve seal replacement... I figured I’d see about removing the 2 broken exhaust manifold studs so I can be completely done with this right side head. I couldn’t believe it when this video popped up in my ‘tool’ search. Frickin’ Perfect! I’m a union ironworker local 433, welder. Your welds passed this test lol all that matters right. Now I gotta see if I can get this to work for me. Big thumbs up on all videos I’ve need thus far. Thank you.
Nice job brother. You the man. Hope I don't have to do this on my 8.3 Cummins engine. I'm about to start on the exhaust manifold today lol.
Nightmare!! Good luck buddy!
Wow look at how perfect the threads were on that bolt! I can’t believe these still break. Great video, keep up the good work.
Yeah its the water and salt trapped behind the nut inside the manifold flange that does it.
“Rust Jacking” is how I have referred to that scenario. The rust caused metal to expand and snapped fasteners off.
The Best video on removing broken studs really thankful
South Main Auto Repair has a better one.
Appreciate this video! Going to try this tomorrow...
Thank you for posting this. There is a technique I use to keep from twisting off rusted bolts, nuts and studs. If I suspect a fastener is really stuck from it's appearance or it's refusal to turn with a reasonable force from a wrench, I first use a penetrating fluid. After that, I use a 3/8 drive air wrench or even a butterfly air wrench with Metrinch sockets if there is room, and the air pressure turned down at first. The rapid chattering has loosened many fasteners for me over the years, preventing further welding, drilling, using EZ Outs, re-threading or whatever. When there are no rubber seals, explosives or other fire hazards nearby, I heat the surrounding area if needed with a small torch, or a acetylene torch for big stuff, but not to the point of heating the stuck fastener itself because it will also expand. This expands the steel, aluminum or cast iron away from the stuck fastener. Although the expansion may be only one thousandth of a inch or less, it's enough to free it. But it's really aggravating when fasteners are literally rusted away or twisted off flush. Again, thanks for sharing this video.
Always easier to work on an engine that’s out of the vehicle. But none the less excellent advice to give out there to everybody. Kudos for taking the time to share!
Easier for demonstration purposes but when the engine is in the vehicle is is not too bad I do them all the time.
This video and your video on removing broken studs was invaluable! Hope I can buy you a beer someday. You saved me a ton of $$
I'm lucky enough to weld fairly well, and TIG weld. I've used my welder so many times to extract studs/bolts I lost count. I think over half of my 7.3 exhaust studs required welding on a nut. Invaluable tool to have in your arsenal.
Working mainly with wood for a long time, the adhesion strength of welding steel is so nice to deal with. It’s a miracle of science.
Man I appreciate this. I've got to remove a broken stud right behind the passenger turbo on a 15 F150 in the morning. Having to replace all the turbo coolant fittings. I'm no welder but I feel fairly confident I can do this. Then, maybe I can wrap this miserable job up.
Nice trick, I'll remember this when i do my 97 f150. A few of em are nearly gone, look like rivites, so this method might be my only choice. It would be my guess, the heat from the weld is actually aiding in the stud removal process, so you get a two for one solution here.
Good video. One skill I don’t have yet is welding. On my bucket list.
I've had to do this a couple of times at my ford dealership for some of the techs. It works pretty well. Did it on a 2008 4.6L explorer and a 2016 transit with a 3.5 eco boost. Worked both times.
Very helpful and informative information brother, they are getting tighter and tighter with less and less room, right angle drill a must, so tired of drilling in almost impossible to reach areas, but after almost 20 years of trying different techniques this is definitely one of my favorite, thanks for the vids, keep up the good work and keep wrenching, nothing like diagnosing and fixing something nobody else can or will, you know everybody's a mechanic.
Great tutorial, Brian... Thank you! Really hoping I don't break any studs when I tackle replacing the cracked driver-side exhaust manifold on my 2006 Mark LT. If I do I know this instructional video will be helpful.
Is there nothing you can't do?!! Fine job Brian, shop looks great, and sharp new uniform shirts!
Nope it's just a welding jacket lol.
Great video! I just got ripped off from a shop who failed to remove one of the manifold bolts on my 2000 ford explorer 5.0. I need to get another small welder to try this method.
did both manifolds on 98 expedition 4.6. cut studs flush with manifold then removed. (I had access to air arc to cut in to pieces) then heated studs red not manifold twice allowing to cool in between, then used 3 jaws stud remover pushed against block to prevent angle twisting. All 16 came out easy 1-2 minutes each. Big thing is breaking rust bond by heating twice (expand /contract)
Ford T. Great Video. My 45 years taught me to put strip of duct tape down whole cylinder head,who cares if it melts ,then put a button of weld right on center of stud,build up if needed,then use needle vise grips,if that dont work ,then you have a shaft to slide nut over then weld nut as last attempt . Waist of wire good 1. I.M.O.
Can you repeat this in English please?
Good job Brian - - -I have done this many times over - drilling then using a easy out ( extractor ) is not the way to go because the easy out tap will break off as you know your self by using them . Good video .
Great video! Thanks I have a broken bolt on my truck exhaust. I think I will try this first. Looks easier than drilling or extracting.
I had never welded before, but I recently took a crack at this. My 4Runner had 7 (of 12) broken/stuck exhaust studs.
I bought an Eastwood welder, loaded it with a spool of flux wire, practiced for about five minutes on some scrap metal, and then went to town on the exhaust studs. I wasted about 10 nuts on the first stud, but I eventually got it out. The second nut spun out on the first try. I have to buy some more nuts before I go after the remaining studs, but I feel that I'm on my way.
In these comments, I read about people warning of welding coated steel, so what I did was soak deez nutz in some vinegar overnight. This dissolves the coating, leaving you with bare steel. Works well, though be warned that rust sets up in minutes, if you don't protect them (WD40 works well for this) after taking them out of the vinegar.
outstanding job for a novice more power to you man learn a lot from your channel
I used a plasma cutter and bolt extractor and air hammer! My driver side is the most difficult stud to reach on the 2005 Ford F150 5.4. It was corroded inside the block, not flush. 1st method failed (welding). Even with my engine hoisted off the mounts a few inches, it was extremely difficult to try and reach this with my wire feed as the weld puddle would not stay inside because of the angle. 2nd method attempt failed. Used a right angle drill attachment to with a tungsten harden drill bit, so i could make a piolet hole for the bolt extractor. This bit broken inside and fused to the broken bolt. 3rd attempt was successful! Took the plasma cutter and very carefully burned a hole inside the broken drill bit until it was large enough to insert the bolt extractor. However, this proved to be difficult because i could not hit the extractor in with a hammer due to the lack of clearance. I took my small air hammer bit and drilled a bore hole that i could slip the extractor bolt into. This allowed me to hammer the extractor into the stud, and I was able to back out the broken stud! Note: if you plan on welding or using my method, i recommend using aluminum foil by 1st, covering those inside the manifolds' holes. 2nd i used an aluminum pie pan and drilled a hole and place over the studs to prevent pitting the block. I have a few photos to show each pain in the rear it took to remove these studs . Great video
Welding right to the broken stud works too, a local machine shop that does these regularly told me that the first two to three threads are always the ones that seize, if you grind down one eighth, they'll unwind every time.
Just removed a broken stud out of my 2000 4.6L Thanks for the tips
Thank you brain this tip saved me tons of work! God bless you!
To help improve the welding with a mig, don't use a ZINC nut! the gas it emits messes with the weld in a BAD way! So, collect a few of the plain black steel nets for this purpose.
Oh I would but they are so hard to find. I dont have any problem with the zinc nuts holding, not for this purpose anyway.
@@FordTechMakuloco
Well, they are hard to find if you just look at the hardware stores, but LOTs of the actual factory bolts and nuts are NOT Zinc coated, but YES the ones they get you from their nut and bolt bin are ZINC! (and I do mean at the dealers)
Look at your second step weld (not the tack) if you notice there is a volcano little crown in it!!! That is from the gasses emitted from the ZINC, trapped paints will do this as well! (I'm not a welder either) but I've seen this many times over the past 20 years or so, the one thing about mig welding is CLEAN, untreated steel is what it was designed for.
I'm very impressed with your skill and your video but if you keep an eye out for just some common grey or the black nuts (used) and toss them in a jar or small plastic tub you'll find they will weld better, EVERYTHING that isn't steel screws with the mig weld.
I'm just trying to give you some pointers! Also! the fumes from Zinc (galvanized) is EXTREMELY toxic if you breath very much of it. Those volcanoes in the weld is from something contaminating molten metal during the welding process, even oxygen messes with it, that's the purpose of the flux, or if used the gas shielding that's in a mig welding setup.
great tutorial got do just that on my bike stud is about quarter exterior but figure do they seize good works in my day all had was clymer manual for my sled or what can not say more here in north ontario where few specalties here
Currently trying this on my 01 expedition I got on a great deal. 1 of three out today. Was really having a penetration issue. I think I'm gonna try the bigger nuts and build up the nubs a bit. I will fix this thing.
You got the job done Brian! That’s all that matters💯
Done this too. Works well most of the time. Unfortunately some studs just won't budge and require drilling.
My stepson is at this point on an exhaust manifold or a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with a Hemi engine in it, He had four or so that wasn't broke but the heads of them were rusted to little nubs! I torched the head off from ALL of them and we got the manifold off, and with LOTS of work we got a couple of the long stemmed bolts out but they didn't just unscrew like the ones in these video's, it was more like a thread locker had been use, which in most cases the extreme heat will unset the thread locker, but his studs are seized in the heads, and he had three of them that were just broke off at the head and we NEVER put a wrench to them, they just broke sometime in the past on their own, I think that's what caused the manifold to start leaking to begin with!
Welding is a good trade to know. I've been welding for 18 years for my current employer and I do it on the side at home. I taught my 13 year old son how to weld at the age of 9. Currently teaching my wife the trade as well. As far as your technique goes, whatever works, works. You're not building rockets with all of the red tape hoopla. Great job!
This is extremely helpful, great video!
I am a sh@t welder, never had luck welding a nut on. I just booger weld out and make a goop with weld. Then use Irwin bolt-grip extractor (they come in different sizes a kit) to grab on the weld and unscrew it out.
Something else that works really well is if you can get a small hammer in there and tap on the welded nut. Its double trouble on the stud. Heat and a little shock
Nice! Just FYI, zinc welding fumes are pretty nasty in the long run (metal fume fever). I try to weld uncoated metal if possible.
Of course if you can find it. Question is which is worse zinc, black oxide or galvanized?
FordTechMakuloco I'm no expert, but I would think zinc and galvanized would be worse given the higher zinc content in both. There doesn't seem to be any zinc in black oxide coatings.
I put zinc or galvanized stuff in my gas forge (outside) to burn off the zinc. Then its safe to weld on. Option B is to hold your breath while welding since its a very short weld, then step away from the smoke.
They are both bad, I have had flu like systems for several days after welding on these coatings on a job, I use a good filter now lol when I weld on them for any length of time, I think it depends on how much you are exposed to the fumes.
There’s something so satisfying about this such a relief when it comes out like popping a big zit lol
It’s a b******d when your manifold studs break very good video, I may have to attempt this on my Porsche when I replace the headers only difference is I will be upside down , and remember Folks “ISOLATE THE CAR!!” When welding disconnect the battery very important....
Think of the hot cold thing like glass. If you heat glass really hot then run cold water it will shatter. Same principle with the stud
Life saver. Thanks so much
Welding galvanized things is bad for you, because you might breathe in zinc fumes. You can take the zinc coating off the nuts by soaking overnight or so in vinegar. Soak until they stop bubbling.
Great vedio thnks we need more!
I had 8 of 10 bolts either break or round off replacing the intake manifold in my 5.4 2v. It took a lot of tries, as I kept twisting the nuts off the studs but this tip saved my bacon big time!
Gave me the confidence to go after the exhaust manifold that’s been ticking for a year
Does the orientation matter? Would it work if piece is laying flat - would the spatter stick to the surface? What wire would you recommend - someone mentioned it should be Carbon Steel flux core - is this true? Thnx
I've tried this method. It's a 50/50 shot.....Nothing is better than heat and a stud extractor
Leekautorepair so then it is better to heat first, and ask questions later
Thanks for another great informative video!
I really appreciate all your videos.
I can imagine they take quite a bit of time to produce.
Your shop is fantastic.. Like an operating room.
Dan
I have a 2013 ford f150 3.5 with broken manifold studs. Will mig welding a nut to the broken thing get them out? Not sure about the material of block and threads. Anything I should worry about? I don’t want the weld material sticking to anything but the broken stud. They are halfway down inside the block..
Excellent job.
Great job, good lesson, Thank you.
I have had to drill down to the studs to wait the threads out weld a washer and then weld a nut to the washer I find it a lot easier to weld a washer then a nut
ill probably be the one guy here to get all the hates, but it took me many years to figure this out on my own. It is a great procedure, and I use it every time, but it's not valuing the techs that have spent many years to develop this method. I came from the school of hard knocks.
Thanks mate ...top man good video
Good Job! Great looking shop!
Thanks Brian very helpful video good job.
Brian, do you put any type of anti seize on the studs at all when reassembling?
I broke an extractor off in the block, bottom very front port. Tried welding, about 30 times, but it wouldn't stick. Any suggestions out there? Am using a Lincoln 140, never welded anything in my life.
Thanks for the tip.. worked like a champ.
Thank You for the video!!! I have heard a lot about this method but never actually seen it done..until now!
I'm thinking I need to replace the manifolds on an old rusty F250 (1997)... mentally preparing myself to deal with the broken studs. Doesn't look too bad at all.
My local shop wants 3200 to swap my manifolds and new cats. Jfc this engine costs more to overhaul than buying a new one.
And out of the several shops in my area only one of them will even attempt it.
You are awesome man
I got to wondering, saw comments that it is only the first few stud threads that freeze in place so why wouldn't a guy want to heat every stud prior to attempting removal and risking a break off? I'd rather deal with pinpointing an fine single acetylene flame cone...say a "0" or a #"1" welding tip adjusted to keep the flame manageable yet adequate to break the steel/aluminum lockup.
The studs are not seizing in the heads at all so that would not help.
How do you do it with the engine in the truck?
Excellent video, thanks.
Hi, I plan on doing this project one time. what is a cheaper welder that will get the job done?
Excellent tip. Would it help as you are working out the stud to hit it with something like PB Blaster to help solvent the corrosion that caused this?
In the process of tearing down my 02 6.8 Liter with 700k miles on her and broke a few of the bolts taking the manifolds of. Very deep breaks. I am going to try this but would it help if I used a little piece of copper tube that barely fits in the hole to protect the threads and then added the weld?
Need a video on the 3.5 ecoboost .it’s making a weird noise
Another good educational video keep up the great work
Brilliant video, thx for sharing!
Didn't start laughing until you said we are probably laughing LMFAO
Nice job...going to remember that one.
What a great hack. Thank you.
Thanks, it worked
Good looking out, Thank you
How about the 3.5 eco-boost engines with the titanium studs ? Any advice ?
Good video. You didn't mention to use a bottom tap. The threads will clean up better with a bottom tap.
Sure
Usually my go to method but I was using MIG. Next time I will try flux core. I think it may give a better bite.
Nice ,,,,,,,,,,,, i use a washer then weld the nut to washer u get better heat penetration,,,,, sometimes the nut makes it to deep to weld to the broken stud
You just build up a nipple on there one to two hits and the nut slides over it the finish the weld
I've got an FE 390 with what I assume are cast iron. Does this still work as long as i dont weld onto the head?
I'm trying to do this right now on a 2002 f150 with the head on
I would like to thank the Ford guy as after 7 nuts being welded onto the stud I got it out Saved engine
Does the heat from the weld not risk warping the head or melting it?
Not even close.