Upgrade your plasma cutter to pilot arc! It's easy!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
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With any plasma arc you need BOTH leads for them to work right. So when you did your first cut you only had the torch connected and no ground, except for the Torch tip. So that's why it wouldn't cut till you touched the tip onto the metal.
Yea, I know, I screwed up. Making videos is hard when you have a one track mind.
Good observation! The ground wire was not even plugged into machine.
I'm glad I saw your comment because I thought connecting the ground clam was a given and it was connected elsewhere.
Cool
hi how are you i have a tig inverter welding machine. I want to turn this machine into a plasma cutter. Do you know anything about it?
I've never done it, but I'm guessing it wouldn't be all that terribly hard since I'm betting most of the cheap Chinese plasma cutters are just converted TIG machines. You'll have to buy a plasma torch with hose and leads and an air regulator and they'll have to a solenoid operated valve to turn the air on and off when you squeeze the trigger. Some of the TIG machines might already have one for gas, and some of them use a torch with a manual gas valve on the torch itself. You'll need to mount the regulator on the back, pipe the air into the solenoid valve, wire the solenoid to power and to the trigger switch and connect the air supply from the valve and the main power lead to the plasma torch. And if you buy a torch with a pilot arc wire you'll have to add that in like I did in this video. Assuming you buy a decent plasma torch, regulator and solenoid you're going to be into this conversion at least $70. Is it worth it when a plasma cutter is only $150? I think I'd sell the TIG and just buy a Plasma Cutter ready to run.
@@3rdpig thenks i am from turkey 1$=19 ₺ :(
Just spend the 200 dollars that will get you an entry level plasma cutter. Do't start messing with the tig welder risking messing it up and costing a bunch to repair.
It wouldn't work ,,,, check 12 minutes in and see you didn't have the ground lead even in the maching,,, all that amperage was going through that little wire .. You're going to get someone hurt doing that kind of stuff.
Watch the whole video
This is an incomplete mod. You still need to add in relays and contactor to disconnect the ground connection. If not, part of the current goes through the wire instead of through the part. Normally, you need some sort of sense circuit like a magnetic reed switch or a current sensing circuit. Once its detected, the connection to that banana plug is then opened once the pilot arc is lit.
I agree, it's a hack workaround. I should have made that more clear in the video.
No Ground clamp first test?
Tests? Tests? I don't need no steenking tests!
If you switch the jumper lead you could switch between plasma arc and non
Would you ever really want to disable it though?
That's so cool, you have a cj7. And a plasma cutter that I'm considering converting
Is your mobile phone to the left SPARK PROOF 😂
Not a mark on it, so I'd say, yes it is. But then again, it's in an Otterbox Defender case and has multiple screen protectors on it.
Thanks for the video. I have a Simadre Cut 50D I might have to try that on.
It's really easy to do, just don't expect the pilot arc to work that well if you're running it on 110v. And that's not the fault of the conversion, even plasma cutters that come with the feature don't have good pilot arc on 110v.
FYI 10 gauge is actually thicker than 14 gauge. The lower the number the thicker the wire.
And a pilot arc is so you can start in the middle of the metal if you have to but still need a clean ground
That might be how pilot arc was marketed, but it's not true. Pilot arc may help with piercing, but any decent plasma cutter with a drag tip and no pilot arc will pierce through if done properly. It's hard on consumables, but it will do it. And modern "non contact" cutters will jump the arc from 1/8" to 1/4" away, even on rusty metal, without pilot arc, so it's not even hard on consumables. Hence my statement at the end of the video that I don't really see it as being necessary any more.
Why didn't just use everything with the was setup and just cut the little eyelet off and put the banana clip on it
Ok, I was going to say that when you were on 110 volts, you had no work (ground) lead connected. So after you corrected that, did it work on 110 as well?
Great job on the conversion, btw!
It sputters, but it does work. And I'm not the only one with pilot arc stuttering issues on 110v, even machines that come with pilot arc and are designed to run on 110v often stutter when on 110v but not on 220v. Just the nature of the beast, I suppose.
@@thebeardedstork432 Thanks!
Thank you, just the mod i need
Yea those cut40’s and 50’s like to randomly explode.. something about cheap chinesium parts not playing well together..
What do you base this on? Because I've never heard of plasma cutters randomly exploding.
So what guage do i use for the pilot arc wire,,i bought a new torch and it has a short black wire that is suppsoe to connect to ground on plasma cutter..do i connect that wire to ground on front of plasma cutter,,i have a cut 50 plasma that only has non pilot arc so i bought new torch with pilot arc...didnt know i was going to have run a extra wire
If you bought a torch with a hose then all you have to do is get the pilot arc wire from the torch to a ground. If you don't mind dodgy work, you can just connect to the ground lead. I've seen examples where it's just wrapped around the ground lead under the insulation, but if I were do do it that way I'd use some sort of bolt or screw to secure it. But I prefer doing it the way I showed in the video with a jack of some kind on the front panel of the machine. Wire size doesn't have to be extreme, 16 gauge is fine, I used what I had laying around. If you're going to run it off 110v you're going to find that pilot arc isn't all that great. On 220 it's pretty good though.
What are the connectors called that pilot arc is connected to if i drill a hole to make the pilot arc wire go through,,i calll it a lug but cant find any online??
I used what's called a banana plug, male and female. They're a staple in the electronics world and you can buy a bag of them cheap on Amazon. But you can use any kind of connector you want, even a stud with two nuts to hold it on the front panel, then ring terminals on the wires will be fine.
Maybe i missed something, but why change the head on the old hose assembly? why not just use the new assembly, which already has the preferred head and pilot wire out of the box?
Because I wanted to use the P80 torch on a more powerful plasma cutter. Sorry, I thought I explained that in the video but it may not have made the final cut.
Would it not have been easier to buy one already set for pilot arc
Sure it would have. You know what would have been even easier? Emailing my drawings to a local metal shop and have them cut it all out and deliver them to me. Even easier than that is to buy the parts I want fully fabricated, welded and painted. Problem is, it starts to get progressively more expensive each time it gets easier. So everyone has to weigh the extra work vs the extra expense and decide how much "easy" they can afford.
Thank you for the video! So, the Plasma arc's other two cables won't connect to your scratch start plasma cutter?
If I understand what you're asking, then yes, but not easily. There's no place in the scratch start torch to connect a a pilot arc wire. So not only would the wire have to be run but you'd have to figure out how to attach the wire to the electrode in the torch itself. Not impossible, but when you're done you're still stuck with a torch that has no means to have a standoff attached, which is one of the big advantages of pilot arc. And honestly, pilot arc machines are only a few bucks more than one's that aren't, if it's something you think you're going to want just buy the machine with it built in.
@@3rdpig Thanks for the great explanation. Although I researched my purchase, I was ignorant about scratch vs. Pilot Arc. I'll eventually convert it to Pilot Arc, but want to get some practice in before I, potentially, screw it up. Great conversion, thank you!
Hi, after you have modified the machine torch. Do you think the plasma torch consumable part will last longer than the previous one ?
IMO how long your consumables last depends more on the user than whether or not the torch has pilot arc. If you're experienced and careful you can use scratch start torches and the consumables can last a long time. But for someone new to plasma cutting, or who's careless, having pilot arc and a torch that prevents the user from dragging the tip on the metal, then yes, it will extend the life of consumables by a lot.
@@3rdpigthank you for your respond. By reading this, i'd like to keep my existing scratch torch as the way it is.
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I have a plasma cutter which i am trying to weld aluminium with it but not winning .
Argon gas connected and tig torch connected .
Qhat can i do to make it weld aluminium
I don't even know where to begin. Do you know how to TIG weld? Do you know how to set up the torch? Does it strike an arc at all? If so, will it melt the base metal? Without knowing a lot more I don't know what I can do to help.
You need an AC not DC Tig welder
🎉
Can the P31 torch be converted to pilot arc cheers
I think so. You could run the pilot arc wire inside the torch cover and connect it up at the electrode.
Do you happen to have a link for the banana plugs? Thanks
Sure. You'll need male and female connectors, you can find them at the Amazon links below.
amzn.to/3nYxjZm
amzn.to/3LXxpsh
@@3rdpig thank you!!
Out of curiosity why did you swap the torches to different cords as opposed to using the cord the pilot arc torch came with?
I bought two torches, the AG-60 in this video that came with the full lead, and a P-80 that was the torch head only. My thinking at the time was that I wanted the large P-80 torch on the heaviest lead I had, which is the one that came with the AG-60 and that I'd then put the AG-60 torch on the older, lighter lead. Of course before I could do that I changed my mind again and have since switched the torch on the machine in this video back to the PT-31 torch that came with it because I intend selling it and don't want to sell the AG-60 torch with it.
@@3rdpig ahhh alright. Have you noticed any issues with this approach to adding pilot arc? I'm curious why the manufacturers wouldn't just do this straight out the gate if this is really all there is to it. I read on a couple forums about people creating a time delay before the arc starts so that the air flows first by .5-1sec.
@@JesseKlaus I can't answer why most manufactures don't do it other than it's going to add to the cost of the machine and to be quite honest, it really isn't necessary. A more expensive torch has to be used, it has one more wire running the length of the lead, the internal and front panel connectors have to be there. Considering these "cheap" cutters are vying against each other for our attention, I'm guessing a $20 increase would be seen as a big deal. Even the last one I tested, the Vevor, which has an improved PT31 torch and a pressure gauge in the front panel, hasn't done it. And while I haven't noticed any problems after adding pilot arc that machine, there are a couple of things to consider. First, pilot arc sucks on 110v and it's not just this conversion it's everyone I've seen. Pilot arc is, at least IMO, only useful on 220, and on 220 most non pilot arc machines are powerful enough to start an arc through rust and paint with no problems. Hence my opinion that pilot arc isn't really necessary. However, it is quite useful when you're using a standoff to keep the tip away from the base metal, or on a circle cutter which does the same thing. I haven't heard about the mod for making the air blow first, I suppose that's a trick to make the tip last longer. I suppose it wouldn't be that hard to rig up, but in my experience once you get good with a torch consumables last a pretty long time. It's when you're new or you do stupid things that you burn up consumables. Since I'm pretty good with an oxy-acetylene torch, and since the technique of using one is pretty similar to a plasma cutter, I never really had too much of a problem with consumables...unless I was doing something stupid, and in those moments I pretty much knew I was going to destroy a tip in order to get a job done. They're cheap enough, so it's not a big deal unless you're on the last one.
@@3rdpig good to know. I think I may do the same mod to my Yeswelder MP200.
Will it not erode or damage the nozzle tip?
Used sparingly and only when needed I don't see it making a difference. Waved around like a light saber? Sure, it's going to accelerate wear on the consumables.
What the hell is a banana plug? And I'm not sure where you ran the wires you added. Very vague on everything.
I not only stated clearly where the extra wire goes, but at 6:10 in the video I zoomed in and showed it. Simply put, it goes from the internal lug from the ground clamp to the female banana plug I added to the front panel. That's it for the changes inside the machine. On the torch itself, since it came with the pilot arc wire already in it I just clipped off the ring terminal at the machine end and put on the male banana plug then plugged it into the female banana plug I already added. That's it. That's the totality of the changes.
As far as what a banana plug is, 10 seconds on Google or Amazon could have answered that for you. They've been used in small electronics for at least 50 years.
@@3rdpig ikon
Me thinks if you don't know what a banana plug is you should not be a messin wiff lelectricity. 😆
@@GMacnz a banana plug is not commonly used or common knowledge to a non electrician. My point was for him to explain to those that don't know. But since we are on the subject, a banana plug is not adequate for the voltage passing thru it. But who am I to say right?
@@racerguy500 they would be fine for the voltage but amps would melt them quite nicely
no pics how to connect inside cutter
I showed everything you need to connect this.
Is pilot arc connected to positive wire/
Pilot arc wire should run from the ground terminal at the machine end to the electrode on the torch.
@@3rdpig thank you Bryant,
Hey Chuck, just be aware that plasma electrode tips have different diameter holes. You mentioned a P80 torch. If you are going to run it on 110v, you are going to have to go down to a 0.8mm electrode tip and they are hard to find and expensive. They are made to be used on a 30 amp machine. I am not sure you will be successful with a 0.8mm electrode tip at 110v. The 1.1mm electrode tips are for full 40 to 50 amps at 220v. The P80 were made originally for Panasonic plasma cutters.
Thanks for the tip! I did know there were different sizes for different torches and power outputs, but haven't really looked into it too deeply. The 60 amp torch is working well on my cheap little Cut 40 machine which runs great on a 20amp 110v circuit. I got the P80 torch for the Simder Cut 50 which doesn't run hardly at all on 110v without popping a breaker, but is a fire breathing monster on 220. Anyway, even if it doesn't work that great I'll have fun experimenting with it. Which reminds me, I need to get that done as I've got some work to do with it soon! Thanks for watching and commenting!
So whats a pilot arch
Pilot arc is when the torch will produce an arc without the ground. Let's you cut through paint or rust without cleaning it up first.
@@3rdpig so maybe up an help me with this dilemma. I bought a used Mac tool cpa 20-ps with a crushed torch. Iltge cord is shorter then I would like and I’m looking to get something longer . But I can’t find a part number for the torch to try to cross match. You have any info I can steal from you to help with this?
and plese 240v only
I live in the USA so there will always be tests on 120v as well as 240v.
@@3rdpig Can you show how ican do My plasma
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I would like to ask for your help my pilot are stutters I have it running on 110 I would appreciate any help that you can give. Thank you. By the way I had a PSI gauge put in the back I was getting an air leak from the one in the front. th-cam.com/video/MZFMeScDeqU/w-d-xo.html
Mine stutters on 110 too, not really sure there's much you can do other than plugging it into 220, assuming you have 220 available and the machine can run on it. Pete over at Pete's Tools channel found the same thing.
th-cam.com/video/ULqLMjOKLE0/w-d-xo.html
110v try 220v
How is someone supposed to help if you turned comments off?
Yeah the first time you tried cutting with it you never even had a ground on it that's why it didn't cut until you touch the tip and of course it's going to cut the second time cuz you got a earth ground on it
Yea, I heard you the first time! Making videos while also trying to do the work is hard. Thanks for watching!
@@3rdpig definitely keep up the good work I'm making the videos Chuck you're doing a good job at it and I know it's tough I did it myself there before I lost my son back in August of 2021 I'm still trying to reel it in now hopefully I'll be able to get my channel up and going again and have a good time doing it for him the only reason why I taught myself how to TIG weld it's so I'll be able to teach him because he wanted to go to Arizona to become a gunsmith but he was taken away from us at the young age of 21. 😢😢😢