Very helpful. Thank you. Question: I looked up the banana connectors you suggested and noted they were rated to 35 amps only. Would that be ok for the machine than can output 50 amps?
Thanks. The red wire with banana connector is only for starting up the plasma proces. Also the red wire is way too thin for this high amount of current. The main current will be between the two electrodes via the main cables.
Thx. Confused a wee bit here. If I set the machine for 40 amps and connect the red wire to the ground in the machine as you suggest why isnt the 40 amps passing thru the circuit to the torch tip immediately and burning thru the red wire. What is resisting this surge in amperage?
The main cables are designed for the high current. The red thin wire clearly not. The simple ring interface connection of the red wire does not indicate a complex interface at system side. So I expect a high electrical resistance as protection of the red wire circuit in the electronics design of the holder. This will limit the current in the red wire circuit during startup as well as during the process. Since I haven't noticed any cable heating in the red wire during long time operation, I expect this leakage power to be very small.
Hi, I've seen a couple of videos showing this simple mod. However one guy commented that on a machine designed for pilot arc the earth connection to the torch is disconnected by a relay once an arc is established. This being necessary as the the thin earth wire along the torch lead would otherwise continue to conduct power and eventually overheat. Have you or anyone else experienced this happening after modifying your machines ?
No I haven't. The thin earth cable is only used for the high frequency start of the plasma. Once the plasma is present and conducting with the work piece the high frequency stops and the DC current is ramped up towards the setting by the operator from electrode to the work piece. See also: www.lincolnelectric.com/nl-nl/support/process-and-theory/Pages/how-a-plasma-cutter-works.aspx
@@johnallen8680 Because of the absence of such a relais it might be that the nozzle wears down faster for these cheaper systems. But I haven't experienced this so far. In most cases when replacing the electrode I also replace the nozzle. This was also necessary before the modification.
I'm having same issue. The arc stays between the electrode and nozzle, and doesn't jump to between electrode and workpiece. Result is the torch is getting quite hot and the plasma doesn't have any real cutting power.
There is a simple way to get Pilot Arc on a non pilot arc machine, without any modification of the machine itself. Take an app. 1 meter long piece of electric wire. Mount a small clamp on one end. Crimp or solder a 20 - 30 cm long piece of thin copper rod or pipe to the other end. Then wrap half the length of the rod with electrician's tape for insulation; or slide some kind of foam/rubber sleeve over the connection point as an insulated handle/grip. The small clamp is placed on the original large earth clamp, or the metal to be cut; alternatively to the steel cutting table. A cutting torch with a mounted torch guide ring (lifting the nozzle slightly away from the hot cutting point) should be used, to extend the lifetime of the consumables. Squeeze the torch trigger with one hand and touch the side of the nozzle with the copper rod/pipe, using the other hand. Now you got a pilot arc, but it will only continue as long as the nozzle is in contact with the copper rod/pipe. Therefore, place the torch on the metal right where it is to be cut, prior to a quick touch on the side of the nozzle with the copper rod/pipe for initiation of the pilot arc. No more than a second of touching is needed to initiate the pilot arc, then the arc immediately jumps to the metal and cutting can begin. The arc has no problem jumping the 1½ to 2 mm between the nozzle and the metal to be cut. It might be convenient to flatten the tip of the copper rod with a hammer to make it easier to reach in under the torch guide ring to touch the side of the nozzle. Pilot arc is needed for cutting metals that are coated/dirty/oxidized. For cutting new steel or other metals without lacquer/paint/rust, you don't need any wire attached to a devise for pilot arc conversion. A short piece of thin copper rod or pipe with insulation on half the length is enough. Use a cutting torch with a mounted guide ring that keeps the nozzle a couple of mm above the surface. Place the torch on the steel where you wanna start cutting. Squeeze the trigger and at the same moment just touch the side of the nozzle for a second with the copper rod/pipe. In this case the rod must be slid to the torch nozzle to remain in contact with the steel ready to be cut, in order to initiate an arc. Mounting a permanent "pilot arc wire" to the torch on a machine not constructed for pilot arc causes some unwanted side effects. As there is no disconnecting relay on such a machine it might damage your machine. The electric current will always choose the easiest way, i.e. where the resistance is lowest. When the arc ignites, the electric current is meant to go solely to the cutting arc. However, with a permanent "pilot arc wire" attached, part of it will be conducted through that wire. This causes the wire to become very hot and eventually melt, or even catch fire. More important, a permanent "pilot arc wire" fitted on a machine not constructed for pilot arc will inevitably cause a parasitic loss of cutting power. You can easily lose 10 Amp.
What gauage wire is used for the pilot arc ??My new torch only had a short lead and i need to add new wire length of existing line,,great video,,clear and to the point,,where did you find the female connector
I didn't add an extra wire, I simply used the one from the torch. The banana connectors are bought in a local electro shop, these are standard connectors and every electro shop has them.
Hi, is the machine still in good condition after just looping from the ground without relay and stuff? Planning to do the same with my expensive non pilot Plasma cutter but worried will damage the machine. Hope to hear from you
Yes, the machine is still working fine and much easier to start than before. Also I still always have the earth clamp properly connected to the workpiece.
I don't like him a lot of these new torches on these machines there putting that trigger guard which is good but it's pretty self-explanatory not to hit the trigger and it seems like it would be CER c u m b e r s i v e when you're in a tight spot and you accidentally lose your finger and then have to slip that back up again I am not saying just for this machine but or torch but for a lot of new ones that are coming out even higher end ones I do not like that feature why don't they put them on and Mig welders it would be more pain of a butt than what it's worth
There is always a balance between safety and ease of use. But I must admit that I really like the trigger guard for this torch, since you don't want it to start accidentally.
can you please tell me which is the best torch to use with a Pilot Arc Plasma Cutter CUT50P 50A 220V Non-Touch Digital Air Inverter. the torch that came with this machine uses P80 consumables and I could never get this torch to work properly it's always hit and miss with the pilot it just spits and splutters maybe it's the wrong torch that they put with the machine? please can you help. regards peter
Hi Peter, Looking at the pictures of your system on the internet it looks that the connection of your plasma cutter are the same as mine. In that case the cheap torch that I show in the video should also fit your system. If you have doubts on your torch you could try this one, since it works perfectly for my system. The consumables seem to be the same as well. But are you sure the compressed air setting and performance of your compressor is correct? Regards.
@jackfrostkht. Spits and splutters are commonly caused by poor conductivity and/or bad connection of the earth clamp, due to paint/rust/dirt on the surface of the metal to be cut. Also check the electrode, it could be part of the reason. If a hole deeper than around 1 mm has occurred in the middle, it should be replaced. The hole in the nozzle will gradually be enlarged due to erosion. When the flame is no longer circular it's time for replacement. A fine thin cut requires a fresh nozzle. Worn nozzles make rougher cuttings. Though, they can be used to cut iron scrap until the cutting becomes too wide, and/or penetration through heavy steel is no longer possible. A nozzle usually outlasts 1½ electrode. I doubt your machine came with the wrong cutting torch. P80 torches cost more than standard torches. I ordered my cheap Chinese machine with the P80 torch against additional price. It works perfectly!
Hi thank you for getting back to me. I have tried all the settings that can be made but still no luck. A friend thinks that the torch that came with this machine could be too big and the machine can't handle it he thinks that this torch maybe for a 60 amp machine but I don't know. maybe I'll try a lower amp torch. but thank you again for taking the time to answer my question. Regards peter
As shown in the video I now use the pilot arc torch: AG60 / WSD60. This one also runs fine when setting the cutter at 50 or lower Amps, which I typically do when cutting limited thickness materials. Also then the plasma flame and process is stable and cutting well. Good luck trying another torch!
![[Full Episode] The Restaurant War Thailand ศึกพ่อค้าซ่าแม่ค้าแซ่บ Episode 2 | 29 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r3lfLNH6Ke4/mqdefault.jpg)
Very helpful. Thank you.
Question: I looked up the banana connectors you suggested and noted they were rated to 35 amps only. Would that be ok for the machine than can output 50 amps?
Thanks. The red wire with banana connector is only for starting up the plasma proces. Also the red wire is way too thin for this high amount of current. The main current will be between the two electrodes via the main cables.
Thx. Confused a wee bit here. If I set the machine for 40 amps and connect the red wire to the ground in the machine as you suggest why isnt the 40 amps passing thru the circuit to the torch tip immediately and burning thru the red wire. What is resisting this surge in amperage?
The main cables are designed for the high current. The red thin wire clearly not. The simple ring interface connection of the red wire does not indicate a complex interface at system side. So I expect a high electrical resistance as protection of the red wire circuit in the electronics design of the holder. This will limit the current in the red wire circuit during startup as well as during the process. Since I haven't noticed any cable heating in the red wire during long time operation, I expect this leakage power to be very small.
Hi, I've seen a couple of videos showing this simple mod. However one guy commented that on a machine designed for pilot arc the earth connection to the torch is disconnected by a relay once an arc is established. This being necessary as the the thin earth wire along the torch lead would otherwise continue to conduct power and eventually overheat. Have you or anyone else experienced this happening after modifying your machines ?
No I haven't. The thin earth cable is only used for the high frequency start of the plasma. Once the plasma is present and conducting with the work piece the high frequency stops and the DC current is ramped up towards the setting by the operator from electrode to the work piece. See also: www.lincolnelectric.com/nl-nl/support/process-and-theory/Pages/how-a-plasma-cutter-works.aspx
@@OutdoorsintheLowCountries Hi, have read the article attached to that link and now feel more confident about doing the mod.
Many thanks.. John
@@johnallen8680 Because of the absence of such a relais it might be that the nozzle wears down faster for these cheaper systems. But I haven't experienced this so far. In most cases when replacing the electrode I also replace the nozzle. This was also necessary before the modification.
I'm having same issue. The arc stays between the electrode and nozzle, and doesn't jump to between electrode and workpiece. Result is the torch is getting quite hot and the plasma doesn't have any real cutting power.
Did this issue appear after making this mod?
And do you assure proper earth connection to your workpiece.
Theres a reason why the factory didnt make the machine pilot arc..this coud be very dangerous..
I found the 4mm banana connectors on Amazon also
There is a simple way to get Pilot Arc on a non pilot arc machine, without any modification of the machine itself.
Take an app. 1 meter long piece of electric wire. Mount a small clamp on one end. Crimp or solder a 20 - 30 cm long piece of thin copper rod or pipe to the other end. Then wrap half the length of the rod with electrician's tape for insulation; or slide some kind of foam/rubber sleeve over the connection point as an insulated handle/grip.
The small clamp is placed on the original large earth clamp, or the metal to be cut; alternatively to the steel cutting table. A cutting torch with a mounted torch guide ring (lifting the nozzle slightly away from the hot cutting point) should be used, to extend the lifetime of the consumables. Squeeze the torch trigger with one hand and touch the side of the nozzle with the copper rod/pipe, using the other hand. Now you got a pilot arc, but it will only continue as long as the nozzle is in contact with the copper rod/pipe. Therefore, place the torch on the metal right where it is to be cut, prior to a quick touch on the side of the nozzle with the copper rod/pipe for initiation of the pilot arc. No more than a second of touching is needed to initiate the pilot arc, then the arc immediately jumps to the metal and cutting can begin. The arc has no problem jumping the 1½ to 2 mm between the nozzle and the metal to be cut. It might be convenient to flatten the tip of the copper rod with a hammer to make it easier to reach in under the torch guide ring to touch the side of the nozzle.
Pilot arc is needed for cutting metals that are coated/dirty/oxidized. For cutting new steel or other metals without lacquer/paint/rust, you don't need any wire attached to a devise for pilot arc conversion. A short piece of thin copper rod or pipe with insulation on half the length is enough. Use a cutting torch with a mounted guide ring that keeps the nozzle a couple of mm above the surface. Place the torch on the steel where you wanna start cutting. Squeeze the trigger and at the same moment just touch the side of the nozzle for a second with the copper rod/pipe. In this case the rod must be slid to the torch nozzle to remain in contact with the steel ready to be cut, in order to initiate an arc.
Mounting a permanent "pilot arc wire" to the torch on a machine not constructed for pilot arc causes some unwanted side effects. As there is no disconnecting relay on such a machine it might damage your machine. The electric current will always choose the easiest way, i.e. where the resistance is lowest. When the arc ignites, the electric current is meant to go solely to the cutting arc. However, with a permanent "pilot arc wire" attached, part of it will be conducted through that wire. This causes the wire to become very hot and eventually melt, or even catch fire.
More important, a permanent "pilot arc wire" fitted on a machine not constructed for pilot arc will inevitably cause a parasitic loss of cutting power. You can easily lose 10 Amp.
What gauage wire is used for the pilot arc ??My new torch only had a short lead and i need to add new wire length of existing line,,great video,,clear and to the point,,where did you find the female connector
I didn't add an extra wire, I simply used the one from the torch. The banana connectors are bought in a local electro shop, these are standard connectors and every electro shop has them.
@@OutdoorsintheLowCountries My new torchs extra wire was only about a foot long so im going to have to buy some wire and banana connectors,,
Anyone added the cheap eBay Chinese pilot boards and if so how?
Thank you, I just modified mine and it works.
Glad it helped
Hi, is the machine still in good condition after just looping from the ground without relay and stuff? Planning to do the same with my expensive non pilot Plasma cutter but worried will damage the machine. Hope to hear from you
Yes, the machine is still working fine and much easier to start than before. Also I still always have the earth clamp properly connected to the workpiece.
I don't like him a lot of these new torches on these machines there putting that trigger guard which is good but it's pretty self-explanatory not to hit the trigger and it seems like it would be CER c u m b e r s i v e when you're in a tight spot and you accidentally lose your finger and then have to slip that back up again I am not saying just for this machine but or torch but for a lot of new ones that are coming out even higher end ones I do not like that feature why don't they put them on and Mig welders it would be more pain of a butt than what it's worth
There is always a balance between safety and ease of use. But I must admit that I really like the trigger guard for this torch, since you don't want it to start accidentally.
Did he do this without a special pilot HV circuit board that is deleated on non-pilot arc units?????/
they usually still have adjustable points inside the chassis, my 520tsc high frequency turn on does
can you please tell me which is the best torch to use with a Pilot Arc Plasma Cutter CUT50P 50A 220V Non-Touch Digital Air Inverter. the torch that came with this machine uses P80 consumables and I could never get this torch to work properly it's always hit and miss with the pilot it just spits and splutters maybe it's the wrong torch that they put with the machine? please can you help. regards peter
Hi Peter, Looking at the pictures of your system on the internet it looks that the connection of your plasma cutter are the same as mine. In that case the cheap torch that I show in the video should also fit your system. If you have doubts on your torch you could try this one, since it works perfectly for my system. The consumables seem to be the same as well.
But are you sure the compressed air setting and performance of your compressor is correct?
Regards.
@jackfrostkht. Spits and splutters are commonly caused by poor conductivity and/or bad connection of the earth clamp, due to paint/rust/dirt on the surface of the metal to be cut.
Also check the electrode, it could be part of the reason. If a hole deeper than around 1 mm has occurred in the middle, it should be replaced.
The hole in the nozzle will gradually be enlarged due to erosion. When the flame is no longer circular it's time for replacement. A fine thin cut requires a fresh nozzle. Worn nozzles make rougher cuttings. Though, they can be used to cut iron scrap until the cutting becomes too wide, and/or penetration through heavy steel is no longer possible. A nozzle usually outlasts 1½ electrode.
I doubt your machine came with the wrong cutting torch. P80 torches cost more than standard torches. I ordered my cheap Chinese machine with the P80 torch against additional price. It works perfectly!
Thank you very much watching and learning all the time
Thanks, good to hear that you like it.
Hi thank you for getting back to me. I have tried all the settings that can be made but still no luck. A friend thinks that the torch that came with this machine could be too big and the machine can't handle it he thinks that this torch maybe for a 60 amp machine but I don't know. maybe I'll try a lower amp torch. but thank you again for taking the time to answer my question. Regards peter
As shown in the video I now use the pilot arc torch: AG60 / WSD60. This one also runs fine when setting the cutter at 50 or lower Amps, which I typically do when cutting limited thickness materials. Also then the plasma flame and process is stable and cutting well. Good luck trying another torch!
I solely use the large P80 cutting torches on both my cheap 50 Amp Chinese machine, as well as on my professional 80 Amp machine.
Heel erg bedankt for de informatie
Fijn dat het van hulp kan zijn.
Brilliant video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video
Thanks!
How do I get the connector ?
The link to the plasma torch is added in the description. The banana connectors are standard connectors you can find in every electronic shop.
@Outdoors In the Low Countries thanks great video
Fantastic - thank you!
You're welcome!
Could you supply details of the type of connector you used ? Make and model number. Regards.
.
I added this information in the description of the video.
@@OutdoorsintheLowCountries 8th
I found 4mm connections on Amazon