Thank you. It seems like most TH-camts don't actually know about plasma cutting, they just act like they do. They never explain peripheral details, and they never critique and examine their own cuts. Very helpful!
Thank you putting this video out. I learned a lot from this video alone. After watching this video I went to shop and was able to complete a number cuts almost dross free and minimal clean up not to mention I made it through those cuts without having to change consumables and didn’t get any slag build up on the tip. This channel had so much learning material and I’m the sponge. Please keep the videos coming
I need to use my plasma cutter more. This video makes me wanna go out to the shop at 1:30am and fire up the compressor and start cutting shit up. Maybe I'll try it on a bunch of steel rivets I gotta remove, should be quicker than an angle grinder. Thanks for the tips. I knew most but no one knows everything and sometimes it's good to relearn and be reminded of the things you already do know. That came out jumbled af like im a loon, meh... you're a smart dude, you get it
How big are the rivets?! id personally just grind the tops off and pop them out. keep from damaging the other metal. Plasma could do it, just may make a mess of things.
@@mikeburns703For sure! Starting out I had the tendency to jump everytime Id start a cut or when sparks flew back towards my face! Takes a while to relax and go smoothly!
with my CNC machine, i found i needed to be setting the cut speed ALOT faster than i initially thought. and setting the "slow down on curves" is another setting that takes alot of practice to get right. the best thing i did, was to draw out several "test mode" pieces to cut out- basically a 1.5 inch square with a 3/8" hole in the middle. it doesn't waste alot of material, and at least with my machine (Langmuir Crossfire Pro), i can speed up/slow down the cut speeds within the software just before the cut, i just kept upping the cut speed by 5% until it was obvious it was too fast. take lots of notes, and soon you will have alot of data for travel speeds/cut height/pierce height and delay to set up the proper "machine" in your design program (i'm using Fusion 360). also, having a large compressor with a decent dryer/filter setup was also key- small compressors can have difficulty keeping up during a cut which causes pressure fluctuations.
Unboxing a new plasma cutter for my workshop right now, that ive been wanting to get for a while now, all this sort of troubleshooting stuff is definitely going to help !
Great run-down. One technique I was taught for pulling along a fence, is to hold your arms out straight and move your body. For short runs you can just lean back, but for long runs you might have to take a step or two. The key is not to transition between methods of moving the torch. For example if you are pulling by bending your elbows and you run out of room and transition to bending your wrist, it will be really hard to keep a constant speed and angle. A practice pass takes 2 seconds and will identify any unseen issues (like bumping a clamp with the torch, or stepping on a piece of scrap on the floor) and will give you a good idea of how you will have to move through the range of the cut. Speed up until you get a mild lean on your spray, and focus on keeping that smooth speed for the rest of the cut. Getting a good ground is key, clamp directly to the work piece if possible, and hit the mill scale with a flap wheel so you're connecting to bare metal. I use a piece of aluminum flat bar as a straightedge, and clamp it to the work with the ground clamp when I can. Chiz
Regardless of what you find here on youtube, you'll find its a learning curve like anything else. haha just gotta do it and mess with it. lots of commitment. but usually most things that are worth it are.
Power is where Hypertherm outperforms. An Extrafire 85 on 240V single phase only does 65A. Yes 65A is the max output for the 85 on single phase. On the other hand a Powermax 85 on 240V single phase outputs full 85A.
I need dry air! But more importantly, Im trying everything I can to make my cuts as square as possible but its been difficult to make everything come together. Ive been test cutting on a piece of 1/4" steel with a 60A consumable at 60 amps, 80 feed rate, 70 psi on wet air sadly, and on my last test cut I found that my torch was not perfectly square with the material, so my last test piece was the best so far, but its still not as square as I think it can get. If I slow the feed rate, it doesnt improve, I have not tried speeding up the feed rate, Im going by Thermal Dynamics recommended chart. I have an exposed 60A consumable thats fresh, I also have 40A consumables. I will now (soon) get dry air, because boss man is all for getting this old Torchmate CNC table fully operational for our projects!
Thanks much, this narrows it down for me. I've had my el-cheapo for a few years now and never really had to worry about looks per se for the few times I've needed it, but now I have time to start on my old cars so most of my cuts will be sheet metal so this helps a lot. Any preference on pushing or pulling the nozzle?
I wasn't even aware that tips came in different sizes. My plasma came with one size tip and it's got that little guard that keeps the proper distance. But that guard makes using a guide almost impossible.
Thank you for the video. I have not purchased a plasma cutter yet. Why use a plasma cutter over a cutting torch, if you have a cutting torch? Only trying to learn.
oxy - acyt torch won't cut stainless steel or aluminum and a plasma cutter will and in my opinion plasma cutters are really great for thickness's under 3/16ths, they cut very fast with a narrow kerf so you don't get warping of the material like with a gas torch. I cut a hole in a new livestock trailer for a louvered vent with no warp at all, it was 16ga. sheet metal and was on a rounded front of the trailer. But for most shops you still need a gas torch for other applications like thicker materials and heating material. The consumables on a plasma torch can be pricey, filtered air on a compressor that can keep up is a must. Hyper-Therm is my choice And I wouldn't buy anything less than a 45 amp machine. Their are alot of cheap china machines out there and have good reviews on youtube, but if they are like most of the crap that comes from a communist country that wants to take us over, it won't last, and neither will they.
Okay, thanks. The torch will cut stainless. You are correct it’s the thinner material that will warp like crazy. I have a pretty good air compressor that would keep up unless it was a long cut , say 2 or 3 feet. Thank you for your help.
@@AustinHargettlol I guess you would call that adaptable to the environment! Everyone I have ever known thats moved to Texas returns with an accent after a few years! I grew up close to Texas so I can transition between both worlds! Lol
That works, but can be kind of slow. Before i retired from the steel fab business, I used oxy propane torches to cut steel up to 14 inches thick. Yes the cutting speed is quite slow, but still much faster than a band saw on the same material.
@mikeburns703 I spent most of my time doing repetitive stuff in a machine shop as their welder. Cut pieces stacked in a power hacksaw or an auto bandsaw. Set and walk away to do something else in the workflow. Speed? Probably the same on thick pieces but better for my workflow... Sheet metal is definitely faster with a torch.
I just noticed your channel and like your content. I have a question for you. A friend built a custom car and had to shape the windshield by trimming the upper corners. He told me that he put aluminum tape on both sides, drew his lines then used a plasma cutter to cut it. He said it worked just fine. He did then take it to a glass shop that had a wet sander to smooth the edges. What do you think about it?
@@bdtodd50todd38 not so sure what you need to do. not sure how the aluminum tap would help other than a line to follow. In my experience the plasma will cut through tape if it gets contact first. I imagine the aluminum tape would make it easier to get contact.
@@AustinHargett You clamp the ground around the glass making contact on the tape. Yes, the top tape will just be a line and a place for the arc to start, but the arc should go thru the glass to the bottom tape.
I know as far as the cuts go that Ive made that I need to move faster and turn up the amps! I have a tendency to let the cut fuse itself back together in several spots causing me to have to go back and hit it again!
Works for me but my beard is close cropped. You can tell if the air is bypassing the filters, I just reposition the mask if I sense that and it works fine.
Thank you. It seems like most TH-camts don't actually know about plasma cutting, they just act like they do. They never explain peripheral details, and they never critique and examine their own cuts.
Very helpful!
Thanks for watching! Im not perfect, and i do like to evaluate everything I do to improve the next time.
I like how you learn while on camera with us, critiquing your own work even if it didn't end up like you thought - and trying to figure out why.
I try and keep it real, we actually try and keep all the mistakes. Because its how we all learn
Thank you putting this video out. I learned a lot from this video alone.
After watching this video I went to shop and was able to complete a number cuts almost dross free and minimal clean up not to mention I made it through those cuts without having to change consumables and didn’t get any slag build up on the tip. This channel had so much learning material and I’m the sponge. Please keep the videos coming
I need to use my plasma cutter more. This video makes me wanna go out to the shop at 1:30am and fire up the compressor and start cutting shit up.
Maybe I'll try it on a bunch of steel rivets I gotta remove, should be quicker than an angle grinder.
Thanks for the tips. I knew most but no one knows everything and sometimes it's good to relearn and be reminded of the things you already do know.
That came out jumbled af like im a loon, meh... you're a smart dude, you get it
How big are the rivets?! id personally just grind the tops off and pop them out. keep from damaging the other metal. Plasma could do it, just may make a mess of things.
YES!! Please show how to improve cuts on a CNC plasma cutter. I would like to improve the dross issue.
ill give it a go!
Being close to the right speed is important, but what is more important to consistant nice cuts by hand is SMOOTHNESS.
@@mikeburns703For sure! Starting out I had the tendency to jump everytime Id start a cut or when sparks flew back towards my face! Takes a while to relax and go smoothly!
with my CNC machine, i found i needed to be setting the cut speed ALOT faster than i initially thought. and setting the "slow down on curves" is another setting that takes alot of practice to get right. the best thing i did, was to draw out several "test mode" pieces to cut out- basically a 1.5 inch square with a 3/8" hole in the middle. it doesn't waste alot of material, and at least with my machine (Langmuir Crossfire Pro), i can speed up/slow down the cut speeds within the software just before the cut, i just kept upping the cut speed by 5% until it was obvious it was too fast. take lots of notes, and soon you will have alot of data for travel speeds/cut height/pierce height and delay to set up the proper "machine" in your design program (i'm using Fusion 360). also, having a large compressor with a decent dryer/filter setup was also key- small compressors can have difficulty keeping up during a cut which causes pressure fluctuations.
Unboxing a new plasma cutter for my workshop right now, that ive been wanting to get for a while now, all this sort of troubleshooting stuff is definitely going to help !
good luck! great addition to the shop
I don't plasma cut that often, so this was a good. Thanks!
Great run-down. One technique I was taught for pulling along a fence, is to hold your arms out straight and move your body. For short runs you can just lean back, but for long runs you might have to take a step or two. The key is not to transition between methods of moving the torch. For example if you are pulling by bending your elbows and you run out of room and transition to bending your wrist, it will be really hard to keep a constant speed and angle. A practice pass takes 2 seconds and will identify any unseen issues (like bumping a clamp with the torch, or stepping on a piece of scrap on the floor) and will give you a good idea of how you will have to move through the range of the cut. Speed up until you get a mild lean on your spray, and focus on keeping that smooth speed for the rest of the cut. Getting a good ground is key, clamp directly to the work piece if possible, and hit the mill scale with a flap wheel so you're connecting to bare metal. I use a piece of aluminum flat bar as a straightedge, and clamp it to the work with the ground clamp when I can. Chiz
Would love to see this for the CNC. I just got one and working to get it up and running
Ill give it a go
Very helpful. Saved me a ton of time, scrap, and trial and error. Thanks.
Loved the video. Great explanation! Thank you!
Great timing, just got a small plasma and got my air dryer set up to install tomorrow and try it out
excellent!
Excellent video. Thank you for the information!
Hey Man that is a sweet Hench you got there!
Cnc techniques would be super good info!
Great video. I struggle with plasma cutting. I usually reach for metal circ saw or bandsaw table if I can. Would love to get better with that torch.
👍👌thanks for sharing! Keep them coming! Good video! Austin
Thanks for watching Rudy
Awesome video - very helpful and relatable. Thanks for creating and sharing!
Thx for the tips brother! There is definitely a learning curve to getting nice cuts by hand with a plasma cutter!
Track torch on mild steel every time, plasma on all non-ferrous, excellent video
Great video. Very informative
Good information , thank you.
This helps me a lot. I appreciate it. Would you be able to do the same for gouging with plasma?
What about air pressure? The more the better or is there any time that you would use less or more pressure on the regulator?
Yes, CNC table settings!
Nice job …helpful
Thank you I now see what I was doing wrong 👍😉🤔
Would very much like to see a video on c.n.c. plasma set up.
GREAT video guy! would really like to see a video on cutting tables!!! i would like to invest in one but dont know much about em
Regardless of what you find here on youtube, you'll find its a learning curve like anything else. haha just gotta do it and mess with it. lots of commitment. but usually most things that are worth it are.
Power is where Hypertherm outperforms. An Extrafire 85 on 240V single phase only does 65A. Yes 65A is the max output for the 85 on single phase. On the other hand a Powermax 85 on 240V single phase outputs full 85A.
I need dry air! But more importantly, Im trying everything I can to make my cuts as square as possible but its been difficult to make everything come together. Ive been test cutting on a piece of 1/4" steel with a 60A consumable at 60 amps, 80 feed rate, 70 psi on wet air sadly, and on my last test cut I found that my torch was not perfectly square with the material, so my last test piece was the best so far, but its still not as square as I think it can get. If I slow the feed rate, it doesnt improve, I have not tried speeding up the feed rate, Im going by Thermal Dynamics recommended chart. I have an exposed 60A consumable thats fresh, I also have 40A consumables. I will now (soon) get dry air, because boss man is all for getting this old Torchmate CNC table fully operational for our projects!
Thanks much, this narrows it down for me. I've had my el-cheapo for a few years now and never really had to worry about looks per se for the few times I've needed it, but now I have time to start on my old cars so most of my cuts will be sheet metal so this helps a lot.
Any preference on pushing or pulling the nozzle?
Before I had access to a CNC Plasma, I used Masonite for cutting templates
Hello, I am an ExTexan retired in Thailand. Humidity and wild voltage variations is the big issues here.
I wasn't even aware that tips came in different sizes. My plasma came with one size tip and it's got that little guard that keeps the proper distance. But that guard makes using a guide almost impossible.
Thanks for sharing, from mistakes to great results… helps those trying to do this for themselves. Keep up the good work👍
Thank you for the video. I have not purchased a plasma cutter yet. Why use a plasma cutter over a cutting torch, if you have a cutting torch? Only trying to learn.
oxy - acyt torch won't cut stainless steel or aluminum and a plasma cutter will and in my opinion plasma cutters are really great for thickness's under 3/16ths, they cut very fast with a narrow kerf so you don't get warping of the material like with a gas torch. I cut a hole in a new livestock trailer for a louvered vent with no warp at all, it was 16ga. sheet metal and was on a rounded front of the trailer. But for most shops you still need a gas torch for other applications like thicker materials and heating material. The consumables on a plasma torch can be pricey, filtered air on a compressor that can keep up is a must. Hyper-Therm is my choice And I wouldn't buy anything less than a 45 amp machine. Their are alot of cheap china machines out there and have good reviews on youtube, but if they are like most of the crap that comes from a communist country that wants to take us over, it won't last, and neither will they.
Okay, thanks. The torch will cut stainless. You are correct it’s the thinner material that will warp like crazy. I have a pretty good air compressor that would keep up unless it was a long cut , say 2 or 3 feet. Thank you for your help.
Love it. What air pressure were you running at 65A?
70 i believe
@AustinHargett Thank you. I've been running my pressure way to low.
So ...the tip is suppose to lie down flat and press against the thing you are cutting?
Just proves that whether its a guitar amp or a plasma cutter, always set it on "11" !
Great Vid!
Disband the ATF or,
Colion Noir and Brandon Herrera for director of the ATF.
Excellent work!
What shade lens do you wear?
for plasma? like an 8
Heard you say you’re in Houston. Im a south Texan who now lives in Ohio. ….Thought you’re accent sounded normal
I aint got much of one lol depends who I hang out with. I start sounding more like some one form Michigan when i go north too lol
@@AustinHargettlol I guess you would call that adaptable to the environment! Everyone I have ever known thats moved to Texas returns with an accent after a few years! I grew up close to Texas so I can transition between both worlds! Lol
Wow.....some years back I remember how someone commented that he could cut with a plasma cutter 3/8 " steal plate if the conditions were right.
What I want with thick metals is a nice sharp bandsaw... 😉
That works, but can be kind of slow. Before i retired from the steel fab business, I used oxy propane torches to cut steel up to 14 inches thick. Yes the cutting speed is quite slow, but still much faster than a band saw on the same material.
@mikeburns703 I spent most of my time doing repetitive stuff in a machine shop as their welder. Cut pieces stacked in a power hacksaw or an auto bandsaw. Set and walk away to do something else in the workflow. Speed? Probably the same on thick pieces but better for my workflow... Sheet metal is definitely faster with a torch.
I just noticed your channel and like your content. I have a question for you. A friend built a custom car and had to shape the windshield by trimming the upper corners. He told me that he put aluminum tape on both sides, drew his lines then used a plasma cutter to cut it. He said it worked just fine. He did then take it to a glass shop that had a wet sander to smooth the edges. What do you think about it?
I'm going to give that a try and do some test. Thanks
@@robert5 Please let me know the results.
@@bdtodd50todd38 not so sure what you need to do. not sure how the aluminum tap would help other than a line to follow. In my experience the plasma will cut through tape if it gets contact first. I imagine the aluminum tape would make it easier to get contact.
@@AustinHargett You clamp the ground around the glass making contact on the tape. Yes, the top tape will just be a line and a place for the arc to start, but the arc should go thru the glass to the bottom tape.
When all else fails....grinder!
Hot and Fast……. Got it 👍
👍
When you spend so much time trying to do the best you can, it becomes VERY difficult to do it deliberately wrong!
Hot and fast … all I need to know!
Thats it!
Found a mig welder! 😂 don't worry that's my bread and butter 😅
👍🏻
I know as far as the cuts go that Ive made that I need to move faster and turn up the amps! I have a tendency to let the cut fuse itself back together in several spots causing me to have to go back and hit it again!
I have preheat thick metal it will help win you're almost to thick
👍👍
❤
Pretty much the same as oxy.
You betcha
6:16 “aurafice”
For a million years its been slag, not sure wtf dross is.
Forever slag and dross have always been two different things. sounds like a good video to make to clarify things
* * * * *
A respirator with a beard, an OSHA no no. Haha. No seal so pretty much useless.
Still better than nothing .
Works for me but my beard is close cropped. You can tell if the air is bypassing the filters, I just reposition the mask if I sense that and it works fine.
Excellent video, great info. Thanks for sharing. Cheers