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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ย. 2020
- This video explains how to correctly calculate the Chitubox light-off delay setting, covers some acclaimed benefits of using the function, shows how it works on the machine and offers a potentially better alternative to the setting.
Since there is discussion about changing the "Machine_parameters.gcode", you want to remember to always have a copy of the original unedited file at hand, in case something goes wrong!
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You actually need that light off delay for resin to settle. When your build plate moves down it pushes resin from underneath it. If you start curing your next layer as soon as your build plate reaches its lowest postion, resin might still be moving. Viscous fast curing resins will start to get cured while still being squeezed out from underneath the print/build plate. If you model is big and not hollow, there will be more of that resinto squeeze out. It will result in uneven surface of your print and gel like- semi cured resin on the surface of the print. Adding 0.5-1s light off delay allows resin to escape from beneath the build plate and settle before new layer exposure.
I can't really argue about that with you Andrius. You, the conclusion on the video is a little bit out dated and it deserves a follow up to be honest. I would still hold a little bit to to not being incredibly important on an RGB machine, since the time it takes to properly start curing could act as a sort of "delay" but on a monochrome machine, you most definitely need a bit more or a pause.
I'll keep a more broad application of it in mind when I update this video :).
@@3DExtra Just do a test print with and without it. When it doesn't start away the surfaces are more even. Scientific method, mr. engineer
I love the approach you take to explaining the issue, then working through not only the solution but the process of the solution and what it achieves. Instant sub, hopefully you are inspired to continue these videos soon!
Very useful info about the machine file. Thanks for sharing.
Light off for the bottom layers will allow resin to settle AFTER its being pushed by the plate as it comes down. Unsettled resin will be exposed to UV and start curing, thus creating what is known as an elephant foot. That is the main benefit of the delay.
I think the newer Chitubox has the kind of delays outlined in the video. It now has delays you can set post exposure, post zlift, and post retraction delays seperately.
First off, your simple and concise calculation for total movement time is just great, thank you. Second, once we change the G-Code to insert a 2 second pause, we can just ignore the light-off delay in the printer resin settings, right? Does the changed G-Code override the Chitubox settings?
Is it possible to directly edit the g code for the light to Daly turning on after the build plate is lowered in to place? Much like you show with the pause at full lift? That way it always has a light delay no matter what file I print or what speed I use?
On my Photon Mono the Light-Off Delay is executed totally different. The time it takes to lift and retract the build plate is at around 6 seconds (depends on speed settings of course) and after the build plate is retracted back down into printing position, the Light-Off Delay is then executed before curing the layer. So even a low 1s Light-Off delay will be executed and added to the whole layer time. I tried it while printing with very little resin left in the vat, so i can see and hear the difference, when changing the Light-Off Delay setting on the fly on the printer. With 2s Light-Off Delay, the plate gets down into the vat, and then pauses for 2s, then my 1.5s exposure is happening and then it starts to lift again.
So it seems that different printers with different firmware settings are handling the Light-Off Delay setting differently.
I can't confirm this 100% since I'm using only Elegoo machines, but I was mostly reporting on how it's handled by chitu and what's in the manual.
I've heard from a couple people that anycubic might handle it differently, but since the photon and photon S use the same board as the elegoo machines (Chitu L K1 or something along those lines) I would think maybe those older machines do it the same way.
The mono might be different though since it seems to use a custom controller PCB, albeit with the same brain components as the other Chitu products, so it's possible that Anycubic did something different in the firmware or in the machine_parameters.gcode file.
This would seem quite weird for them to add more work for themselves and create a sort of further fragmentation to an already badly executed setting.
I can confirm the same behavior on my Anycubic Mono. The LOD is added to the beginning of the cycle before the UV light turns on. No math necessary. I took off the vat and ran a print, keeping time with a stopwatch, while watching the screen through the enclosure. I was slicing with Lychee. The front LCD will project the image during the LOD and during the curing time. I have not testing this behavior with any other slicer.
@@jordangladden Hello. I am using a photon mono with lychee slicer too. Based on your comment, do not I have to do the calculations of this video? I mean, I have my LOD in 1 second, then after the vat is down, it will wait one second and then will turn on the light? please help
Hello!
I have an issue that I don't really now what is the actual time of the print, just when I started the print because Chitubox says 2-3 hours less time after slicing than the original true time. How can I set this to make chitubox to show me the exact printing time?
That's relatively common. Chitu will only ever give you an estimate time. It makes a base assumption of the time based on the speed and layer heights that you input, but your printer movements also have other things involved in them.
There's acceleration, jerk, firmware max speeds and firmware speed overrides that come into effect and since chitu doesn't know those values, it won't ever really know the correct time it's going to take.
Best bet would be to try rough the difference between the displayed time and actual time and use that as an further rough estimate for the time it will really take.
Could you do this for the new version of CHITUBOX v 1.9, please?
i don't understand the where the misunderstanding is, its in the name, the time light of to light going back on
it is probably better to use higher lift height (6+mm) than long light-off delay
Agreed. If the retention at max height wasn’t a thing, and the only choice was light-off delay, I would go for a higher and slower lift.
have to admit you are actually right. sorry about that
Yes it make sense
For us extremely not code savy folk….couldnt one just raise the lift parameter higher therefore giving more time?
I think you have explained it so wrong. The manual is straight forward with a simple example. If you want to have 11.5s OFF then you put 11.5 (not 2!). Anything below 9.5s will result in OFF of 9.5s!
I can see where you're coming from and yes, you're right that anything below 9.5s (in my example) will have an actual "light off time" of 9.5s, but that's the logical light off time as the axis moves to perform the peel action off the FEP, and not an actual further "delay", since the setting is light-off delay, and not light off time.
To me, and I think to others, the light off delay, implies extra time that the UV source is off for before printing the next layer. I should have indeed said "anything below 9.5s will give you no EXTRA delay at all" but I assumed it would have been clear.
The video was overall an attempt to show to people who put 1, 2, or 3s that that specific variable, doesn't actually enable the light off delay setting in their case and their off time is just the sum of the time it takes to move the axis up and down for peel.