I show you something you absolutely need to learn if you ever hollow a model for resin printing. Seriously, don't hollow a model without watching. For real.
Although I've been using filament 3D printers for many years, I finally got myself a resin printer (Elegoo Mars 2). When possible, I keep my models flat with as much surface space touching the bed as I can. I use supports only if I absolutely have to. I've been getting fantastic results with 95% of all my prints right from the beginning. The only problems I have had are when I scale down a model so small that the walls are micro thin. Most everyone talks about the need to tilt models but for myself, it just seems to increase build time and use more resin. I still have much to learn about resin printing and I thank all content creators who have made so many helpful videos on the subject. Well, enough chat. Back to watching videos and printing.
I'm using v1.6.3 and it generates auto-supports internally when the model is hollowed.. at first I thought that was not good, but then realized it's good.
Just finished your whole playlist on this. Thank you so much! It was informative and easy to follow. I just stepped into the world and got myself a Anycubic Photon Mojo X 6k.
Protip, If you use the slider from the bottom UP after you hollow the model, you can work from a more convenient angle like you're more accustomed to. ;)
One of the more serious consequences of unsupported islands that doesn't cure to the model is a subsequent layer or print pressing that into your screen. You're right, it can mess up the fep, but it can also destroy your screen causing dead pixels.
I'm curious if this would actually be a problem, though. If there's an unsupported area, it's going to cure on the bottom of the fep, and if not attached to the rest of the print, will just remain there or get knocked loose and float around, right? If it stays put, it's not going to get any taller, because the print will be sitting on top of it. The printer brings the model back down with the same .04mm (or whatever your layer height is) gap, right? So it'd at most get wider and wider until the print eventually picks it up or it floats away. I guess a floater could get stuck sideways, caught between supports or something?
I know the video it from 2019 and its 2022 now, I just started resin printing a few weeks ago and I will hollow models alot if there bigger for sure, and when I hit +All supports it has always supported the inside as well. Dont know if it was just a update from Chitubox or what but its worked fine for me.
Sometimes I get gratefull for little accidents, I was looking for thickness for 3d Prints and watch this video, I get a heads up on one problem I didnt know I may have, Thank you very much!
Only if those supports happen to be under one of the islands mentioned in the video. It would certainly make things faster, because you'd only have to add the manual supports to the spots missed my the infill.
Ok, I'm totally new to 3D printing (not got one yet but I have been making 3D models for videogames for years) You could just make a large hole in the middle of the bottom base to allow supports to print from the plate up to the unsupported areas you need? All you appear to need in the base bottom is four supported holes for magnets to go into. You could even have a large scale mesh bottom to support those 'holes' and have easy access to the upper inside for supports. Just my 2c.
In 1.8.1 Chitubox offers an Infill setting for hollowing the model. Only one option (Grid3D) and I see no option to regulate the amount of infill, but it's probably better than nothing?
I was hoping for a simple trick : but well 3d printing is not simple :D - but you opened my eyes on the creatin of islands due to hollowing! Great. And thanks for the whole series.
Could you give a list of your light/med/heavy top/middle/bottom settings, its hard to glean from the video. That being said I've watched all of your support videos and they really help. Thank you !
I know this is more on the modelers end but would it not be better for a print like this to simply not have a solid base and have it hollow all the way so its more like a shell. Then the auto supports would work better. I guess you could make it this way buy just using the venting hole feature to just hollow out the bottom as much as possible. Im new so Im not sure this would work.
I'm just getting into 3D resin printing and you are the first person I've subbed to so far. Can I ask... have you tried LycheeSlocer ? and if so then how does it compare to Chitubox ? Thanks
Would you say that the chitubox support setting still need careful watching? I am just starting to print models that need to be hollow and then I look inside they are really full of supports.
NOTE: Because of where you put the holes you could not drain the all the resin out of that model. At least one hole needs to be at the lowest point of the cavity so all the resin can drain out.
I have a model that fills the build plate and uses 3/4 of the build height. It needs to be hollow. No matter how I hollow it, the neck and head are always an island. I can clearly see the island, but can not add support, even the light ones. I know there is enough distance to do even a heavy support. I can not get my mouse in there to select the points to add them. How do you fix that? How do I lock teh layer so that I can simply go right and left and not up and down so that I can get inside the model?
Very good tip on the video. (just ordered my 1st printer) I've been wondering recently, if you are building the model upside-down then the hollow area is open till nearly the very end and should keep draining as it builds right? So how helpful are drainage holes? Are the holes you make at the top (build-plate area) merely to help with preventing suction?
at the top doesn't help with suction or "cups" it's just fro cleaning. If you fear suction or a cup forming, which is real, you need a hole somewhere near the build plate but on a "side" :)
@@3dprintingpro212 Oh for cleaning the inside of the print, though is that necessary of it would be sealed otherwise? thats the 1st time I've heard of it called "cups". yea on the side near the build plate would be ideal for that. So, why the holes where the magnets go ? I guess I don't fully understand how the draining process works. My theory seemed sound though.
Please help! What would cause chitubox to try to print hollow models as solid? Or, I can print it hollow but the drain holes stay completely solid- what settings should I look into? (I can get hollow without drain holes by turning infill off and on)
so I know that my current Chitubox version v1.8.1 will actually autosupport the interior as well now, but my little confusion, is that it also has the Detect islands feature, and will pinpoint them all for you, my question that I cant seem to find ANY solid answers for is, how can I tell what is considered an island that is safe to delete, and what qualifies as something I still need to add a support for, I get overhangs need support, but as far as the interiors of hollowed pieces, sometimes it really looks like it could just be inconsequential... long story short, I have a model with 120 islands detected, and a LOT of them look like I could delete them, but now I am nervous about if I am judging them correctly.... ultimately I feel like my question boils down to, if said island is shown as only one or two pixels, and is on the interior of the model, are those islands safe to delete?
Does anyone know why Chitubox isn't allowing for the placement of a support inside a hollow model? is there a setting somewhere I have missed? I click and it literally will not place a support
Hey Greg, about the placement of the draining holes: if you put them on the base, then the resin can't flow out, because the model is printed upside down. You'd need to put them on top (where they are visible, unfortunately) for them to drain the resin while it's still in the printer. When they are on the base, it may flow out when you're cleaning it, because the model moves and is submerged in your IPA/water. But then you're not saving any resin, because the resin was trapped inside the model all along. Am I right or I am missing something?
some informative videos, just cant help thinking how long winded they are, the one with the scale (literally just telling people there's a scale on thingiverse, took 2 minutes just to start to get to the point) this one took like 6 min, to get to the point, "use supports internally"
This isnt entirely true I print nearly everything hollow with drain supports and havent had any failures id say try it both ways and see what works for you
im gonna be honest. There are not that many unsupported islands on that model. As long as it connects somewhere to a previous layer its not likely to fail.
ANY unsupported island leads to cured resin floating in your vat or stuck to your FEP and can cause either failed prints or worse a puncture to the FEP film. Even one unsupported island is way too many....
This was fantastic... I'm a complete 3D printing newbie and just binge watched all your tutorials, I'm feeling much more confident now... thanks so much for taking the time
The way I get around this is saving it out hollow as a stl and edit the file in a 3d application. Where you can easily build select support inside the mode with walls.
If you hollow and prepare drainage holes in an external program for example magics, then generate support in chitu, it will fill the internal void with support. I think Chitubox might be manipulating the slice images rather than the 3D mesh when doing these hollow calculations, so it is left out when you try to generate supports which operates on the mesh. Its a pretty big bug imo. Although if they can sort it out it will save people a lot of money on file prep software.
I'm new to this, in fact I just got my printer but haven't printed anything, but I'm doing some research before I proceed. After watching your video , I was wondering why you wouldn't use infill like this video : th-cam.com/video/3Q5MUVmb_ZE/w-d-xo.html
Infill doesn't directly support parts. it goes up in a specific pattern that doesn't pay attention to what needs supported. infill is more for resisting crushing not supporting while you build.
Okay. I thought the infill created internal support. does it not? I am waiting on a Photon Mono X. I do not want to mess up that monochrome surface. My thought was to do 9% infill as I do with FDM. A lot of people overkill infill. 9-14 percent usually works for me. Is this different in resin printing? Gawd I am so paranoid right now. FDM... all I wanted was an Arkham Origins Batman suit. Resin.... I have hundreds of character STL files to do and lots to learn about chopping to fit the build plate. Please correct me if needed and tell me infill is not the same as internal support. I have a huge Viking Thor project I am starting tomorrow. I do not want to break my FEP sheet before getting to Medusa or Anubis. PLEAAAASE! Lol!
So you tilt the object to reduce the surface area, but then add support structure that creates even bigger solid surface area on the build platform. I am new to MSLA printing so I don't quite get that. If someone could clear that up for me I would be very thankful. :D
I ran into that problem just yesterday. WHat can I do if my Chitu just does not place supports inside even though I clearly see it needs them due to islands? is there a way to force support placement?
Great video and info! I wish chitubox would allow the ‘dig hole’ option on solid models. Then you could cut down on suction forces while still ‘hollowing’ or creating cylinders throughout the model with no unsupported island being created....maybe in the next version or upgrade? *fongers crossed*
Thank you for the video. It in fact didn't occur to me that interior space of hollowed out model might require that much support. I am however a but uncertain about your choice of drain holes. I really suspect that the insets that hollowing out process made around the magnet holes will prevent resin from draining properly, trapping a large amount inside.
What is the advantage of creating a hollow model vs. a solid model? Sure it would use less material, but the small cost compared to the time and possible increase of failure doesn't seem worth it. Any other reasons?
This is the biggest downfall in Chitubox for me... I don't care about internal support structure as I'm never going to remove it or see it....It seems counter-intuitive that there is no auto-support internals only option but an auto-support platform only function??... Why anyone would want to auto-support platform but not internal structure (the current option) seems a little backward imo.
I have a very similar model, a base for a dragon, but when I press dig hole and click the green 'hole' on the model, Chitibox pro doesn't dig the hole. The hole I'm trying to dig is deeper than the wall, but not so deep that it starts to dig on the opposite wall. It works on some surfaces of the model, but not the ones I want. Please could anyone advise?
What's the point of having drain holes? The cavity will remain open until the end of the print, in which case the resin will drain out the top (being upside-down). Right?
Could you slice the base off and save it out. Then do “support all”. It should do supports on the inside, you’d think. Then possibly import the base back in and combine the model back together. You could even then remove the base supports clean and redo the “support all” PS. I’ve never used the above software before, but have 20 years 3d animation FX experience. So workarounds are a daily thing.
Sure, but you'd need to use something like Blender to do that slicing. Chitubox doesn't alter the model itself except in very specific ways, like drain holes, hollowing, and adding supports. Cutting pieces off the model or changing a model's dimensions would mean using another program for that part.
Although I've been using filament 3D printers for many years, I finally got myself a resin printer (Elegoo Mars 2). When possible, I keep my models flat with as much surface space touching the bed as I can. I use supports only if I absolutely have to. I've been getting fantastic results with 95% of all my prints right from the beginning. The only problems I have had are when I scale down a model so small that the walls are micro thin. Most everyone talks about the need to tilt models but for myself, it just seems to increase build time and use more resin.
I still have much to learn about resin printing and I thank all content creators who have made so many helpful videos on the subject. Well, enough chat. Back to watching videos and printing.
I'm using v1.6.3 and it generates auto-supports internally when the model is hollowed.. at first I thought that was not good, but then realized it's good.
Might have to upgrade as this is exactly what I've been looking for... Auto internal supports and manual platform supports.. Thanks!
I experienced that now in the newest Chitubox, the auto support feature puts supports inside the model too. :)
Just finished your whole playlist on this. Thank you so much! It was informative and easy to follow. I just stepped into the world and got myself a Anycubic Photon Mojo X 6k.
the information in this video is out of date now.
Protip, If you use the slider from the bottom UP after you hollow the model, you can work from a more convenient angle like you're more accustomed to. ;)
I actually had fails due to this and never realized it was this. Thank you
Loving all your guidance. I have 8 fdm machines and just got a photon. Learning a lot from you
One of the more serious consequences of unsupported islands that doesn't cure to the model is a subsequent layer or print pressing that into your screen. You're right, it can mess up the fep, but it can also destroy your screen causing dead pixels.
I'm curious if this would actually be a problem, though. If there's an unsupported area, it's going to cure on the bottom of the fep, and if not attached to the rest of the print, will just remain there or get knocked loose and float around, right? If it stays put, it's not going to get any taller, because the print will be sitting on top of it. The printer brings the model back down with the same .04mm (or whatever your layer height is) gap, right? So it'd at most get wider and wider until the print eventually picks it up or it floats away.
I guess a floater could get stuck sideways, caught between supports or something?
@@ChrisEllorris i had a similar thought. I have no experience yet, but this sounds like how it should be.
I know the video it from 2019 and its 2022 now, I just started resin printing a few weeks ago and I will hollow models alot if there bigger for sure, and when I hit +All supports it has always supported the inside as well. Dont know if it was just a update from Chitubox or what but its worked fine for me.
Excellent series of vids, I feel way more confident about supports now. The drag edit feature blew my mind.
Sometimes I get gratefull for little accidents, I was looking for thickness for 3d Prints and watch this video, I get a heads up on one problem I didnt know I may have, Thank you very much!
Question, new to this but would choosing an infill and making it a 3d grid be better than manually adding supports to the inside?
Only if those supports happen to be under one of the islands mentioned in the video. It would certainly make things faster, because you'd only have to add the manual supports to the spots missed my the infill.
Ok, I'm totally new to 3D printing (not got one yet but I have been making 3D models for videogames for years) You could just make a large hole in the middle of the bottom base to allow supports to print from the plate up to the unsupported areas you need? All you appear to need in the base bottom is four supported holes for magnets to go into. You could even have a large scale mesh bottom to support those 'holes' and have easy access to the upper inside for supports. Just my 2c.
In 1.8.1 Chitubox offers an Infill setting for hollowing the model.
Only one option (Grid3D) and I see no option to regulate the amount of infill, but it's probably better than nothing?
I think this is exactly why a recent model of mine failed, thanks!
"Mallow hodel"
Liked and subscribed just for that!
I was hoping for a simple trick : but well 3d printing is not simple :D - but you opened my eyes on the creatin of islands due to hollowing! Great. And thanks for the whole series.
Could you give a list of your light/med/heavy top/middle/bottom settings, its hard to glean from the video. That being said I've watched all of your support videos and they really help. Thank you !
That is why there is a option in the settings to add infill. No need for adding in manual supports.
Infill always misses the islands for me, this is the practical solution until chitubox has more settings for infill.
After you hollow if you turn it 90 degrees then it may not need internal supports ( or not as many) as the roof now is a wall and supports itself
Glad I watched this before going all in on my next print! 😅
Thank you!
video title sounded like click bait, but actually good info for a beginner like me.
Just click the INFILL checkbox and save 7 minutes of your life watching this video. You're welcome.
What about setting infill? May be it is better option?
I agree with you. Might be worth an experiment to compare internal infill versus internal auto-supports.
Can you print the base and main model seperately and after printing glue them both
I know this is more on the modelers end but would it not be better for a print like this to simply not have a solid base and have it hollow all the way so its more like a shell. Then the auto supports would work better. I guess you could make it this way buy just using the venting hole feature to just hollow out the bottom as much as possible. Im new so Im not sure this would work.
and just make cover piece to glue in from bottom if you need it .
This was a great tutorial video playlist, thanks for the great info and wisdom
I must be the luckiest person because I'm still new to resin printing and I've never looked put supports inside and I've never had a failed print
Will the new Photon validator catch this?
I should’ve watched this 2 failed-prints ago... thanks for sharing 👍👍
I'm just getting into 3D resin printing and you are the first person I've subbed to so far. Can I ask... have you tried LycheeSlocer ? and if so then how does it compare to Chitubox ? Thanks
What about the mesh fill options?
Very nice. I’m just buying my first meal printer. I have been printing filament for a year. Is there a way to create “infill” like there is on FDM?
Would you say that the chitubox support setting still need careful watching? I am just starting to print models that need to be hollow and then I look inside they are really full of supports.
What about internal support structure?
NOTE: Because of where you put the holes you could not drain the all the resin out of that model. At least one hole needs to be at the lowest point of the cavity so all the resin can drain out.
but actually the holes are not to drain but to let air in. it's upside down, so it stops sucking.
I have a model that fills the build plate and uses 3/4 of the build height. It needs to be hollow. No matter how I hollow it, the neck and head are always an island. I can clearly see the island, but can not add support, even the light ones. I know there is enough distance to do even a heavy support. I can not get my mouse in there to select the points to add them. How do you fix that? How do I lock teh layer so that I can simply go right and left and not up and down so that I can get inside the model?
your videos are really good! im glad i found them
Thanx Mate, good and important video.
have you tried using the 3d grid when you slice?
Very good tip on the video. (just ordered my 1st printer)
I've been wondering recently, if you are building the model upside-down then the hollow area is open till nearly the very end and should keep draining as it builds right?
So how helpful are drainage holes?
Are the holes you make at the top (build-plate area) merely to help with preventing suction?
at the top doesn't help with suction or "cups" it's just fro cleaning. If you fear suction or a cup forming, which is real, you need a hole somewhere near the build plate but on a "side" :)
@@3dprintingpro212
Oh for cleaning the inside of the print, though is that necessary of it would be sealed otherwise?
thats the 1st time I've heard of it called "cups".
yea on the side near the build plate would be ideal for that.
So, why the holes where the magnets go ?
I guess I don't fully understand how the draining process works. My theory seemed sound though.
Please help! What would cause chitubox to try to print hollow models as solid? Or, I can print it hollow but the drain holes stay completely solid- what settings should I look into? (I can get hollow without drain holes by turning infill off and on)
Resin printing has no option for infill?
tldw; make sure there are supports inside
so I know that my current Chitubox version v1.8.1 will actually autosupport the interior as well now, but my little confusion, is that it also has the Detect islands feature, and will pinpoint them all for you, my question that I cant seem to find ANY solid answers for is, how can I tell what is considered an island that is safe to delete, and what qualifies as something I still need to add a support for, I get overhangs need support, but as far as the interiors of hollowed pieces, sometimes it really looks like it could just be inconsequential... long story short, I have a model with 120 islands detected, and a LOT of them look like I could delete them, but now I am nervous about if I am judging them correctly.... ultimately I feel like my question boils down to, if said island is shown as only one or two pixels, and is on the interior of the model, are those islands safe to delete?
There is an infill function in settings but I don't know if it works with complex shapes
What's the FEP?
How to stick model to build plate without suports
Does anyone know why Chitubox isn't allowing for the placement of a support inside a hollow model? is there a setting somewhere I have missed? I click and it literally will not place a support
Hi man, thanks 🙏🏼 I'm a beginner in 3D printing, could I ask you if I had to make the same procedures even with Helmets?
Depends how big, the idea is to reduce suction, material usage
at 4:53 what settings do you use to make those small supports? I can't seem to be able to get any to drop.
Photon File Validator, it'll add all the supports inside it for you.
Hey Greg, about the placement of the draining holes: if you put them on the base, then the resin can't flow out, because the model is printed upside down. You'd need to put them on top (where they are visible, unfortunately) for them to drain the resin while it's still in the printer. When they are on the base, it may flow out when you're cleaning it, because the model moves and is submerged in your IPA/water. But then you're not saving any resin, because the resin was trapped inside the model all along. Am I right or I am missing something?
If the model completely exits the resin on higher layers before it's "closed in" the "trapped" resin will flow out :)
Gotta keep your mollow hoddle!
Thanks alot it did help alot
I didn't know that Denzel Washington is into 3d printing.
very helpful! Thanks!
excellent advice.
Why not just use infill?
some informative videos, just cant help thinking how long winded they are, the one with the scale (literally just telling people there's a scale on thingiverse, took 2 minutes just to start to get to the point)
this one took like 6 min, to get to the point, "use supports internally"
This isnt entirely true I print nearly everything hollow with drain supports and havent had any failures id say try it both ways and see what works for you
supporting the islands in a hollowed model is an absolute nightmare especially if they are 1px and you cant see them
im gonna be honest. There are not that many unsupported islands on that model. As long as it connects somewhere to a previous layer its not likely to fail.
ANY unsupported island leads to cured resin floating in your vat or stuck to your FEP and can cause either failed prints or worse a puncture to the FEP film. Even one unsupported island is way too many....
@@3dprintingpro212 Yes of course and I agree but I think we counted 4 so that's not that hard to deal with although I do see the point of your video.
wished i would have watched this 3 hrs ago.
Seems u are supporting hang over not island? 🤔
Mallow Hodel 🤣
👏😎
Jeez, you should be a lawyer...
This was fantastic... I'm a complete 3D printing newbie and just binge watched all your tutorials, I'm feeling much more confident now... thanks so much for taking the time
The way I get around this is saving it out hollow as a stl and edit the file in a 3d application. Where you can easily build select support inside the mode with walls.
If you hollow and prepare drainage holes in an external program for example magics, then generate support in chitu, it will fill the internal void with support. I think Chitubox might be manipulating the slice images rather than the 3D mesh when doing these hollow calculations, so it is left out when you try to generate supports which operates on the mesh. Its a pretty big bug imo. Although if they can sort it out it will save people a lot of money on file prep software.
Good reminder. This might be a case where adding infill would come in handy.
I expected him to talk about infill but he didn't
My reaction to... Hey, what about infill!
Dito!
New to 3D printing: How do you add infill on a resin printer? FDM seems pretty obvious.
@@wishbone25 using Chitubox, there is an infill setting which will do it for you automatically.
When you hollow the model use grid infill. Problem solved.
I'm new to this, in fact I just got my printer but haven't printed anything, but I'm doing some research before I proceed. After watching your video , I was wondering why you wouldn't use infill like this video : th-cam.com/video/3Q5MUVmb_ZE/w-d-xo.html
Infill doesn't directly support parts. it goes up in a specific pattern that doesn't pay attention to what needs supported. infill is more for resisting crushing not supporting while you build.
Okay. I thought the infill created internal support. does it not? I am waiting on a Photon Mono X. I do not want to mess up that monochrome surface. My thought was to do 9% infill as I do with FDM. A lot of people overkill infill. 9-14 percent usually works for me. Is this different in resin printing? Gawd I am so paranoid right now. FDM... all I wanted was an Arkham Origins Batman suit. Resin.... I have hundreds of character STL files to do and lots to learn about chopping to fit the build plate. Please correct me if needed and tell me infill is not the same as internal support. I have a huge Viking Thor project I am starting tomorrow. I do not want to break my FEP sheet before getting to Medusa or Anubis. PLEAAAASE! Lol!
So you tilt the object to reduce the surface area, but then add support structure that creates even bigger solid surface area on the build platform. I am new to MSLA printing so I don't quite get that. If someone could clear that up for me I would be very thankful. :D
The bottom platform is printed at different settings, typically won't have issues.
I use 1.80 wall thickness, with 5% infill with 50% precision ..haven't had a problem yet.
I ran into that problem just yesterday. WHat can I do if my Chitu just does not place supports inside even though I clearly see it needs them due to islands? is there a way to force support placement?
Great video and info! I wish chitubox would allow the ‘dig hole’ option on solid models. Then you could cut down on suction forces while still ‘hollowing’ or creating cylinders throughout the model with no unsupported island being created....maybe in the next version or upgrade? *fongers crossed*
Thank you for the video. It in fact didn't occur to me that interior space of hollowed out model might require that much support.
I am however a but uncertain about your choice of drain holes. I really suspect that the insets that hollowing out process made around the magnet holes will prevent resin from draining properly, trapping a large amount inside.
1.8.1 has fixed this, used auto support and there are supports inside
or...now here me out, flip it upside down and support from the "top" and have it build on itself
perfect
What is the advantage of creating a hollow model vs. a solid model? Sure it would use less material, but the small cost compared to the time and possible increase of failure doesn't seem worth it. Any other reasons?
aside from costs savings, weight of the model as well, I rarely hollow to be honest...
I never thought about islands inside the hollow. This was very informative, thanks!
I was wondering: if you hollow the whole base, making it like a mold basically, wouldn't it be better?
This is the biggest downfall in Chitubox for me... I don't care about internal support structure as I'm never going to remove it or see it....It seems counter-intuitive that there is no auto-support internals only option but an auto-support platform only function??... Why anyone would want to auto-support platform but not internal structure (the current option) seems a little backward imo.
Isn't there the option infill structure which makes a mesh? Maybe that wasn't there when you made the video?
I have a very similar model, a base for a dragon, but when I press dig hole and click the green 'hole' on the model, Chitibox pro doesn't dig the hole.
The hole I'm trying to dig is deeper than the wall, but not so deep that it starts to dig on the opposite wall.
It works on some surfaces of the model, but not the ones I want. Please could anyone advise?
What's the point of having drain holes? The cavity will remain open until the end of the print, in which case the resin will drain out the top (being upside-down). Right?
I guess this is why people FDM Print bases!
Adding 20% infill solves this without manual supporting
Or one can simply use the insert grid infill located in the hollow tab, just saying
Whenever I add a drain hole it says "fail" WTF is wrong with this program?
why would you not just do a low percentage of infill if youre going to place supports inside anyway?
Your videos don't get the attention they deserve. Thanks for this!
Al Franken is that you?
Could you slice the base off and save it out. Then do “support all”. It should do supports on the inside, you’d think. Then possibly import the base back in and combine the model back together. You could even then remove the base supports clean and redo the “support all”
PS. I’ve never used the above software before, but have 20 years 3d animation FX experience. So workarounds are a daily thing.
Sure, but you'd need to use something like Blender to do that slicing. Chitubox doesn't alter the model itself except in very specific ways, like drain holes, hollowing, and adding supports. Cutting pieces off the model or changing a model's dimensions would mean using another program for that part.
ZBRUSH was the best money I’ve ever spent in my life. The free upgrades are literally priceless.
🤓🤜🏼🤛🏼🇦🇺🍀🍀🍀😎
How do you cut a large model into pieces so it can be printed on a small printer?
luban
Prusaslicer auto support inside a hallow print
by me the supports still inside if i make the inner hole