thanks for sharing mate. Frederico, just to avoid people knocking at your door with a super glued Handlebar :), i believe you wanted to say carbon paste instead super glue :O (@ 9:48)
Thanks for pointing this out. I actually wanted to say superglue, but I might have cut where I was explaining why! Some say the glue helps sealing the carbon of the cut steerer from water, so you can use glue and of course need to wait for it to dry before assembling the handlebar.
@@fede1275 ahah, i thought of that as well..but as you said, you edit out. this is actually an important point to mention. this would avoid the cutted edges to erode
*_Warning !_* Unless the capability is explicitly mentioned by the torque wrench manufacturer, never, ever unscrew bolts with your torque wrench. The lever allowing to go counterclockwise is for the bolts or part screwing in the opposite direction such as a pedal or a bottom bracket.
Hi Federico...I would stay away like death from that compression plug...dangerous design. This is one of the few things I agree with Durianrider. Use a long a secure compression plug that cover both stem bolts, not these nano plugs
I know, that is what fits Canyon steerer, not many 1 1/4 plug are there in the market. The larger steerer seems stronger than 1 1/8 ones, did you watch my video when I smashed them?
Looks great, lets us know how your new position works out. Mine is about half way down from top of uncut tube, I've gotten used to it and ride the drops very comfortable. I heard from another rider a more upright position can cause back pain towards the end of a long ride. Makes sense, all the bumps and vertical downward force on the back but being more lower angel on the back will be like an absorber up and down instead on down on the vertebra vertical. I will try before I cut. 🤙
Hi, you mentioned an 'anchor point expandable plug' starting at 8 minutes in the video. Is this something you got from Canyon that comes with the special spacer, part number 123757?
With a small spacer on top the higher part of the clamping surface of the stem can still grip the steerer better. If you have the cap flush the steerer is slightly weaker when the top part of the stem clamps. But it is very marginal.
@@fede1275 The bike has a standard Canyon aluminum stem, but there is no internal support at the top of the steerer tube. There is installed only Canyon EP200-15 Wedge.
@@martin.serbezov In theory the aluminium stem with side bolts should be better than H31 with the bolts at the back, that is why Canyon does not supply a reinforcement ring. The EP200-15 wedge is there just to pull up the fork. If you want extra safety you might get the ring from Canyon or an expander from Pro for 1-1/4 steerer, but in both cases you need to change the top cap as the original one would not fit. Also your bike might not have the top bolt, so a Pro expander and a new cap would be the most secure option in my opinion.
Thank you! In this case you need a base plate, as the top of the bearings with the rubber seal come up with a round edge and the bottom of the cockpit is square. The bottom of the baseplate is round to fit nicely on top of the bearings seal and form a matching baseplate for the cockpit. Same for the round one to accommodate the classic stem.
@@fede1275 Thanks a lot for the very helpful info! Do you happen to know if there are any alternative base plates that would fit your Ultimate (I have the exact same one with the same cockpit, after upgrading from the original stem+handlebar)? Unfortunately Canyon told me last week that they no longer have the plate you ordered.
@@smann7992 what a shame, a friend of mine got his a month or so ago. He also found a 3D printed alternative somewhere, but I don't know where. Try weight weenies forum, maybe there is some info there. I guess it's because Canyon moved to the new adjustable height headset
@@fede1275 Good news! After you wrote that your friend got the transition plate fairly recently, I contacted Canyon once again via the live chat and a very friendly customer service representative told me they had some spare ones after all. Should be in my mailbox next week. FYI, in the meantime, I also saw that SlamThatStem offers very thin transition plates that could have been an alternative. They fit Canyon steerers, though they have the classic round shape, so not mirroring the shape of the aero cockpit. Thanks again for your help!
Thank you, I understand 2Nm is specified on some instructions, but I still believe that it should be done while trying the bike while front braking and checking for any free play. I guess 2Nm is an indication not to go too hard
Hi, no more weight on the hands, actually they are in a more natural position for me. I believe I have long arms and a slammed position works better. I had a little discomfort in the back of the neck/trap area as I had to adjust to the different view, but it went away soon. Any position you are in you would need to avoid raising the head to look ahead and keep the neck straight.
@@fede1275 did you move your saddle forward when dropping your front end? Im trying to make sense of how it will affect the fitting and also thinking on how the little toy you use to illustrate will move.
It's definitely needed, if not that one specifically, but something similar. The top of the bearing includes a rubber seal that has got a rounded edge. The base plate it's round and formed to match it and not to squash it as the squared stem base would.
Not easy to move it up, better if you need to push it, but then if you do too much you would need to raise it again. Ideally you want to use loose it, then thread the bolt without the top cap and grab the bolt with pliers to pull it up. Make sure not to damage the fork or the bolt in the process.
@@msmendis you would need to loose the plug first to release the tension against the steerer, thread the bolt and gently tap the bolt head with a mallet to lower it down. Then tension it again to the correct torque.
Well done Federico, i was thinking doing the same in my aeroad. Do you maybe have the component canyon number you've used (i presume they have a sort of code)? grazie! :)
Dude another thing i didn't understand why you put the 5mm spacer on the top? I mean you cut a 2mm right ? isn't enough ? Just saying I currently I've no spacers on the top... and due a owner of h31, I'm currently have to buy the reinforcement you mentioned in the other video as well...
@@enricobrunodelzotto7486 if you have no spacers on top it means that the steerer is 3 or 4mm below the top of the stem. The stem top bolt might be clamping in a weaker part of the steerer. I cut 2mm above the stem, so with a 5mm spacer I then have the steerer at 3mm below the top of the spacer. I'm this case the stem bolt pushes on a lower and stronger part of the steerer.
I’m with you Federico. So much negative chat about us amateur cyclists slamming our stems. It’s certainly nothing to do with “ looking pro” . For me it’s about getting every watt of free speed however low that speed actually is. I’ve got my Orca with a slammed stem. It’s comfortable, and fits my riding . #amatuercyclistswithslammedstems
@@Cycling-through-cancer absolutely, it's another tool you can use if you would like to adopt a performance position. I find it strange that more upright positions have to be the standard for everyone!
Head tube components 🤣😂🤣..., the other day when you ask us what do we think your secret delivery was & im like seat post clamp, rear wheel tru axel 🤔....,anyway nice to know your fully slammed way to go bro as me personally been slammed for round about 3 yrs now on my customised Merida Reacto 4000 disk 👊🏾👍🏾
It will wreck your back, not a good idea to slam you stem that low. Pros do this for a living and traing hundreds of hours, You only ride for fun, but you will not enjoy it that low. There is a massive difference everytime you lower your stem. The bike will look very agressive and nice, but your ride will be short. Try before you cut, always.
I agree on checking before you cut it, but it's not necessarily painful or uncomfortable. Of course as long as the whole position is adjusted accordingly. Moving forward and lower it's the most efficient way to pedal if you want to go faster. The most common cause of pain is leaving everything else set for an upright riding position and just lower the stem. It has to be done also considering the pelvis rotation and a more centered saddle set back. It worked for me, up to 200Km per day.
I started when riding the Ultimate with the standard stem and bar, on that there was no metal ring or compression plug and 5mm spacer on top would have the stem clamping a little bit lower on a stronger part of the stem, not squeezing the hollow top. I still it is a safer option even with a compression plug.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
thanks for sharing mate. Frederico, just to avoid people knocking at your door with a super glued Handlebar :), i believe you wanted to say carbon paste instead super glue :O (@ 9:48)
Thanks for pointing this out. I actually wanted to say superglue, but I might have cut where I was explaining why! Some say the glue helps sealing the carbon of the cut steerer from water, so you can use glue and of course need to wait for it to dry before assembling the handlebar.
@@fede1275 ahah, i thought of that as well..but as you said, you edit out. this is actually an important point to mention. this would avoid the cutted edges to erode
@@Gledii pinned!
*_Warning !_*
Unless the capability is explicitly mentioned by the torque wrench manufacturer, never, ever unscrew bolts with your torque wrench.
The lever allowing to go counterclockwise is for the bolts or part screwing in the opposite direction such as a pedal or a bottom bracket.
Thank you, it seems to me that in the counterclockwise position there is no torque control, but I'll check again!
I love your little tweak and upgrade videos, I'm tempted to do this when I finally get the aero cockpit fitted.
It's such a nice part time cycling, at least when all works out!
Your little wooden helper sure is a metaphor for how small things have been for me in this chilly weather🤟
I know, it has been horrible! I haven't ridden in the ice these couple of days
Thanks for sharing this experience with us. I want to learn to service my own bike so I don't have to pay someone else to do it.
If I could do it, really everyone can!
Details! 👏🏽 bravo brother
Appreciate it!
It does look freaking neat!
Absolutely!
Hi Federico...I would stay away like death from that compression plug...dangerous design. This is one of the few things I agree with Durianrider. Use a long a secure compression plug that cover both stem bolts, not these nano plugs
I know, that is what fits Canyon steerer, not many 1 1/4 plug are there in the market. The larger steerer seems stronger than 1 1/8 ones, did you watch my video when I smashed them?
Looks great for sure, and very informative video!
Thank you, new video coming on how it feels riding with a slammed stem!
Thanks for this vid! Very interesting stuff. I went ahead and got that secret cap myself :) Really changes the way the bike looks
Yes, it looks amazing and it's also much better for the position!
Looks great, lets us know how your new position works out. Mine is about half way down from top of uncut tube, I've gotten used to it and ride the drops very comfortable. I heard from another rider a more upright position can cause back pain towards the end of a long ride. Makes sense, all the bumps and vertical downward force on the back but being more lower angel on the back will be like an absorber up and down instead on down on the vertebra vertical. I will try before I cut. 🤙
Definitely worth a try!
Just what the bike needed!
Fresh new cut!
Great work hunting down the part. Worth every bit of the cost to make it how you want it. Sure looks really great. Hope the fit works out.👍
Thanks, so far it feels amazing!
Looking good 👍🏾
Hi, you mentioned an 'anchor point expandable plug' starting at 8 minutes in the video. Is this something you got from Canyon that comes with the special spacer, part number 123757?
Hi, no, the expansion plug comes as standard for the top bolt to attach to it and pre-load the bearings. It sits around 3cm inside the fork.
@@fede1275 gotcha, thanks.
Great video thanks. Do you know if there is a way to tuck in / shorten the cable slack without cutting them? Thanks!
Not that I am aware of, unfortunately
What did Bikefit James once say.. “Slamming stem is good..slamming the stem to look good is just stupid” 😂 Does look good though 😊
Absolutely, I am very aware of how silly I am 😄
Definitely got that pro look! I was wondering how they got so low.
Worth it, and I’m totally copying you 😁
Definitely worth it!
Why didn't cut of a few mm more and put the additional top spacer aside? Would surely look better and be more aerodynamic
With a small spacer on top the higher part of the clamping surface of the stem can still grip the steerer better. If you have the cap flush the steerer is slightly weaker when the top part of the stem clamps. But it is very marginal.
Very useful!
After watching your video I will definitely be ordering the Wedge Extension for my Canyon Endurance.
Greetings!
Yes, if you don't have any steerer reinforcement and running the H31 cockpit it's definitely needed!
@@fede1275 The bike has a standard Canyon aluminum stem, but there is no internal support at the top of the steerer tube. There is installed only Canyon EP200-15 Wedge.
@@martin.serbezov In theory the aluminium stem with side bolts should be better than H31 with the bolts at the back, that is why Canyon does not supply a reinforcement ring. The EP200-15 wedge is there just to pull up the fork. If you want extra safety you might get the ring from Canyon or an expander from Pro for 1-1/4 steerer, but in both cases you need to change the top cap as the original one would not fit. Also your bike might not have the top bolt, so a Pro expander and a new cap would be the most secure option in my opinion.
@@fede1275 Thanks! I will do it. Greetings!
Thanks for the great video! Could you also go without any headset cover/base plate and have the cockpit sit directly on top of the bearings?
Thank you! In this case you need a base plate, as the top of the bearings with the rubber seal come up with a round edge and the bottom of the cockpit is square. The bottom of the baseplate is round to fit nicely on top of the bearings seal and form a matching baseplate for the cockpit. Same for the round one to accommodate the classic stem.
@@fede1275 Thanks a lot for the very helpful info! Do you happen to know if there are any alternative base plates that would fit your Ultimate (I have the exact same one with the same cockpit, after upgrading from the original stem+handlebar)? Unfortunately Canyon told me last week that they no longer have the plate you ordered.
@@smann7992 what a shame, a friend of mine got his a month or so ago. He also found a 3D printed alternative somewhere, but I don't know where. Try weight weenies forum, maybe there is some info there. I guess it's because Canyon moved to the new adjustable height headset
@@fede1275 Good news! After you wrote that your friend got the transition plate fairly recently, I contacted Canyon once again via the live chat and a very friendly customer service representative told me they had some spare ones after all. Should be in my mailbox next week.
FYI, in the meantime, I also saw that SlamThatStem offers very thin transition plates that could have been an alternative. They fit Canyon steerers, though they have the classic round shape, so not mirroring the shape of the aero cockpit.
Thanks again for your help!
@@smann7992 great! I also had to insist and send a picture, it looks like it's a not well know part.
May I know after remove the clamp ,where can buy the rubber stopper?
Not sure what part are you referring to exactly? Let me know!
Looks fantastic Federico, the top cap torque should be 2 NM btw
Thank you, I understand 2Nm is specified on some instructions, but I still believe that it should be done while trying the bike while front braking and checking for any free play. I guess 2Nm is an indication not to go too hard
When you dropped the front end, did you get too much weight on your hands? any discomfort?
Hi, no more weight on the hands, actually they are in a more natural position for me. I believe I have long arms and a slammed position works better. I had a little discomfort in the back of the neck/trap area as I had to adjust to the different view, but it went away soon. Any position you are in you would need to avoid raising the head to look ahead and keep the neck straight.
@@fede1275 did you move your saddle forward when dropping your front end? Im trying to make sense of how it will affect the fitting and also thinking on how the little toy you use to illustrate will move.
@@joselarrarte6964 I might have a little, I also changed the seat post recently so some adjustment also had to be done anyway
Just wondering, if it's not for aesthetic reasons, is it necessary for you to use the spacer you got from Canyon if you want to fully slam your stem?
It's definitely needed, if not that one specifically, but something similar. The top of the bearing includes a rubber seal that has got a rounded edge. The base plate it's round and formed to match it and not to squash it as the squared stem base would.
@@fede1275 thanks
The torque wrench is NOT for loosen any screws or nuts.
Does it not work anyway? It's got the switch for the direction?
Hello federico how did you remove the expander plug from canyon on the steerer, i took everything out and he's still stuck
Not easy to move it up, better if you need to push it, but then if you do too much you would need to raise it again. Ideally you want to use loose it, then thread the bolt without the top cap and grab the bolt with pliers to pull it up. Make sure not to damage the fork or the bolt in the process.
@@fede1275 i gave up and push it down, since i wanted to cut the fork 🫢😆
@@tugazuga good choice!!
hi Federico, how do you safely move the plug down? I couldn’t see what tool you were holding to hit with the hammer.
@@msmendis you would need to loose the plug first to release the tension against the steerer, thread the bolt and gently tap the bolt head with a mallet to lower it down. Then tension it again to the correct torque.
Well done Federico, i was thinking doing the same in my aeroad. Do you maybe have the component canyon number you've used (i presume they have a sort of code)? grazie! :)
Ciao, the item number is 123757, Aero Headset Cap Flat!
@@fede1275 awesome man, thanks! And keep going with videos! I'm following you with pleasure !
Dude another thing i didn't understand why you put the 5mm spacer on the top? I mean you cut a 2mm right ? isn't enough ? Just saying I currently I've no spacers on the top... and due a owner of h31, I'm currently have to buy the reinforcement you mentioned in the other video as well...
@@enricobrunodelzotto7486 if you have no spacers on top it means that the steerer is 3 or 4mm below the top of the stem. The stem top bolt might be clamping in a weaker part of the steerer. I cut 2mm above the stem, so with a 5mm spacer I then have the steerer at 3mm below the top of the spacer. I'm this case the stem bolt pushes on a lower and stronger part of the steerer.
Nice work.
👍 👍
You are actually going to chop the few millimeters off you brake cable? You are a WILD MAN!!
Of course, it was too long 😄✂️
Excellent! if you ride on the 20th that will give you 5 days to straighten up for Christmas. ;-)
LOL!!
Looks 100% better
And feels great too!
Definitely need more German Federico
Jawol!
How are you? Please give me the link This is small
Hello, not sure what link are you after?
A slammed stem for amateur cyclists is a great catalyst for lower back pain.
I was comfortable with the stem at the lowest position, with this further reduction it should not be a huge difference. Will see.
I’m with you Federico. So much negative chat about us amateur cyclists slamming our stems. It’s certainly nothing to do with “ looking pro” . For me it’s about getting every watt of free speed however low that speed actually is. I’ve got my Orca with a slammed stem. It’s comfortable, and fits my riding . #amatuercyclistswithslammedstems
@@Cycling-through-cancer absolutely, it's another tool you can use if you would like to adopt a performance position. I find it strange that more upright positions have to be the standard for everyone!
😅 … We will Need to set up an Open database and everybody can 3d print or machine these Parts
It would be definitely cheaper. In fairness this one does have a nice gasket to match the bearings, but that's about it.
Head tube components 🤣😂🤣..., the other day when you ask us what do we think your secret delivery was & im like seat post clamp, rear wheel tru axel 🤔....,anyway nice to know your fully slammed way to go bro as me personally been slammed for round about 3 yrs now on my customised Merida Reacto 4000 disk 👊🏾👍🏾
🤭
Another accident free venture, but at a cost of £37 for a plastic spacer! Have you had a head injury or are you living in a parallel universe?🤔
My way to show luxury rather than buying a 15k bike...
@@fede1275 The 15k bike must be in your parallel universe 😂
@@malz3836 😂😂
I think you’re beginning to lose your grip on reality. Obsession. 😬
I'm already lost!
😂😂😂
Your bikes are way too clean in your videos. Do you really ride? 🤣🤣
You should see my poor Merida, covered in crust!
Now that your bike is pro you just need to hire a pro cyclist to ride it.😉
That's what I feel when I'm riding, it's more than enough 😄
It will wreck your back, not a good idea to slam you stem that low. Pros do this for a living and traing hundreds of hours, You only ride for fun, but you will not enjoy it that low. There is a massive difference everytime you lower your stem. The bike will look very agressive and nice, but your ride will be short. Try before you cut, always.
I agree on checking before you cut it, but it's not necessarily painful or uncomfortable. Of course as long as the whole position is adjusted accordingly. Moving forward and lower it's the most efficient way to pedal if you want to go faster. The most common cause of pain is leaving everything else set for an upright riding position and just lower the stem. It has to be done also considering the pelvis rotation and a more centered saddle set back. It worked for me, up to 200Km per day.
You'll ruin your soft tissues.
I hope not, should not be a huge change from before
Why are you putting the spacer on top of the stem, I think it's ugly and unnecessary 🤔
I started when riding the Ultimate with the standard stem and bar, on that there was no metal ring or compression plug and 5mm spacer on top would have the stem clamping a little bit lower on a stronger part of the stem, not squeezing the hollow top. I still it is a safer option even with a compression plug.