I want designers and "Plus size fashion designers" to stop throwing flowers over every damn piece of clothing they make for larger sized people. I call them "fat girl patterns." You know, just make their clothes with the leftover material used for upholstery making...UGH! Miss Zoe, you are a Godsend. Thank you for keeping things real in this world of fashion for all people.
I agree not only do we have to go in the back of EVERY department store to get to our sizes .. then we come out looking like a walking flower gardens UGH 🤦🏽♀️
This summer I’m coming out with plus sizes clothes. My wife is plus and I ve been sewing her few things. Now I want to take to the next level. I’m originally from Ghana west Africa so I’m going to mostly use african fabric for my designs. The reason is to show what africans ve and also I want to be diff. Thanks for you videos and I m taking it very seriously
Thank you SO much for this. My daughter was cruelly fat-shamed, so I have been re-designing my upcycled fashions and having her model them for me. I shared them in several sewing groups on Facebook, and the positive response has just been overwhelming. My larger size items I call them "goddess size" in hopes of further boosting body positivity. As a seamstress and mother of a curvy daughter, I SO appreciate your beautiful message. I also find myself commenting whenever I see ads that don't feature larger size people. Representation in fashion is so important. Thank you again for this beautiful message! LOVE IT!!!
PS Also, I think it's TOO CHEEKY when clothes come with FAKE pockets. Oh, you thought a pocket would be super-cute and practical, but you didn't want to actually go to the work to make a functional pocket that will lay flat. I'm so impressed.
Oh yeah, fake pockets make me angry. Honestly, when you make welt pockets, it's the opening that's harder and more time consuming to sew. It's not THAT extra to add a pocket bag.
I'm plus size and you hit the nail on the every single thing. I'm going to start a fashion company tailoring to larger women. My designs are sexy, modern, and most of all flattering to our bodies. I'm tired of going through the stores and seeing the cuter clothes that fit my style in the smaller section smh. I'm going change how everyone sees plus size.
@@dewuknowofHyMn I love peplum tops, ( shows off the boobs, cinches the waist, and hides the tummy) wrap tops, circle skirts, pants with a flounce/ peplum. Theres so many different things that we can wear that are flattering and sexy.
@@sewfashionable8398 .....i know i responded a long time ago....but...the problem still exists for plus size women.... Clothing is looking better though... The problem with "peplums on tops" ....for plus size women ...is the peplum ...when made too short...sticks straight out and actually makes ones bu_t look even larger......🤷♀️
Thank you so much, Zoe!! I am a plus size woman who belives that everybody is beautyful, no matter on what size, and everybody needs to feel gorgeous wearing fashionable clothes. 😘😘😘😘😘😘
Thank you for this, Zoe. It's an important topic. I remember when as a slightly larger child I saw Sleeping Beauty by Disney and where the fairy godmothers are making Sleeping Beauty's dress. The one being the model, who carries more weight, comments that the dress doesn't look very nice. The one designing replies 'That's because it's on you, dear.' Some might find that funny - Disney clearly did. What I learned as a child was that clothes are more important than I am and that I will never be able to wear nice clothes. I hope that you will all be able to change and challenge this idea and make the world better.
Triple love~ Not plus sized but I have eyeballs who can see limitations of marketing, designing and psyche control. I like and agree with pockets comment - and not that faux crap but actual pockets with a function and a usable sized pocket bag! Designer showcases seldom integrate plus sizes in collections but rather treat them as a separate class of sizing. Thanks for this. I want to make gorgeous garments for my friends of all sizes. Gonna get to it.
Thank you so much for addressing this! I am considered plus size “curvy hourglass” . I actually decided to start designing and constructing outfits for me because shopping is to much. Love this conversation and you! So glad I found your TH-cam! :)
This was the best video describing the problem larger women have with finding clothes that make us feel sexy!!! I found this video because I hate most of the clothes that are out there for us, and I decided to start making my own. So thank you for this.. You have found a new fan, please keep up the good work.
Zoe if my religion wasn't Beyzanism, it would be Zoeism. I've been binge watching for a week and I love your style and humour. Thanks for the inspiring content.
hey Zoe, this is Amber, i was preparing for portfolio but i had no clue what to do, so i searched the internet and saw your videos. I want to say you are amazing. not only to design part but also some positve and kind attitude about poeple and world. you helped me a lot with fashion learning and the way to think about design. i'm sure plenty of people feel the same way, thank you a lot! have a great day!
Honestly a lot of this is good advice for overall sizing. I've always wondered why women's clothing isn't done by measurements because most of the time we have a lot of variation across our bodies. Like I have a 34 inch bust, but my butt measurement is a 40 inches, but another woman might be in the same "size" as me and have an hourglass figure. A lot of clothes are designed for what looks good on size 0-2 and then designers and manufacturers just increase the size across the board so it's a struggle to find flattering clothes even for non "plus" size women. I can't imagine how much harder it would be if I was in a size group that most stores didn't even sell.
Zoe, I just found your channel, and now I'm hooked! This video, in particular, encapsulates everything I have been thinking, for years! My weight is in constant flux, and I have worn everything from a size 2 to a 16 (whatever that means, as you stated!). I cannot begin to describe the vast difference in my clothing choices and self-esteem, from when I was thinner, to the present moment. As a size 2, I could express my aesthetic, in any way I chose, and shopping was a breeze. As a size 16, my freedom of expression has been squashed, my choices are limited, and I end up hating myself, every time I purchase clothing, leading me to a life of sweatpants, leggings, and a closet full of black. I truly hope that both established and upcoming designers take your advice, and focus more on different body shapes, actual measurements, and pattern-making. Just because we have a few pounds, on us, doesn't mean we don't want to look just as cool and sexy as our slimmer counterparts. Sending you love and kudos!
It would be wonderful to have a designer create a line for peri-menopause and menopausal age women. I’ve never been a tiny woman, but I’ve also never been this size before and no matter what I’ve tried, the weight around my middle absolutely will not budge. It’s scary, and frustrating to not even feel like you are yourself any more and to have no idea how to dress your new body. As an amateur seamstress myself, I want to just make my own wardrobe myself because there really is nothing out there that has good fit. Maybe when I retire, I’ll go to design school and help!?
Hi Christy, what a relief that I am not alone on this. This is exactly why I am looking into enrolling in a fashion course at age 53. I hit menopause last year and I noticed my body shape is changing. I am 5 feet 2 and I can't find anything that fits.
My best two girlfriends are fat and tall with big boobs and huge butts. I love them and I wanted them to stop feeling insecure about their curves so instead of sewing quilts, I offered to make clothes for them. Which meant learning how to sew clothes first, but I'm determined to help them by making clothes that will make them feel beautiful. I made one of them a giant fluffy bathrobe so she can go on her regular sauna trips without having to worry about anything showing or falling out. The look on her face once she put it on was worth a million bucks. Thanks Zoe for speaking on it!
Giant fluffy bathrobes, you found a Niche Market! I want one! The stupid robes in the stores are never long enough. When I was younger and skinny, I used to buy a Large or XL trying to get the length right for the hem and the arm length. Now, I wear an XL. I am buying some Chenille and making myself one as soon as I get my Sewing Shed set up.
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video. As a much larger than "normal" guy (I'm just shy of 6' 2", and while I look like I'm only about 265, I break the scales at often around 330lbs, sometimes upwards of 350 depending on the time of year and how much work I've been doing), I find it hard to get jeans that fit these tree-trunk-sized thighs and only slightly smaller calves that also fit in the waist. Same thing with my shirts (I look like Donkey Kong on top and and Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson below my hips). My wife, while not classed as "fat", is right on that border between "normal" and "plus-sized", and has a helluva time trying to find clothes that fit her (or I do when I buy her something to wear). So my brain farted last winter and I drew up a few (EXTREMELY) basic sketches for clothing for "plus-sized" women, from the inside to the outside (only thing I haven't gotten to yet are things like jackets). And I did talk to my friends, many of whom are of the "plus-sized" persuasion (either in height or girth, and in a couple cases both), and they all had the same complaints: the clothes they could find were highly functional, but extremely uninteresting, oftentimes didn't last, more often than not didn't fit right, and usually cost about the same as shipping a baby grand piano to the moon. Same thing with my bigger guy friends (and I'll be working on sketching a line for them too when I get done the women's line), but the biggest thing I've heard from all of them is this: MAKE THEM LAST LONGER (and ADD SOME FRIGGIN' POCKETS ALREADY!!! lol). They also agreed heartily with the statement that oftentimes "plus-sized" clothing looked like someone took a bolt of cloth, wrapped it around a whiskey barrel and sewed the ends together, or just added a zipper or a row of buttons, and maybe a strip of elastic at one end. Guess I better learn how to do patterns, and find a good sewing machine. And no, I'm not buying one online, because it'd take six months to get it here since I live way out in the middle of nowhere (takes the Postal Service, a wagon train, and three dogsled teams to get the mail out to here some years lol but in reality it's a two-hour drive each way to get to a town that actually has a store dedicated to anything sewing-related now, and pretty much all of those are dedicated to quilting instead of clothing). Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, but I still have a lotta videos to go through lol
I'm not really sure what you're asking for. If you want to start a business for large size clothing, you can watch my Starting a Fashion Company series. If you want to learn how to make clothes, you can start at my Garment Construction playlist.
I am so glad you created this video because society has considered my body type as plus size. I am not plus sized although I wear a size 10 and am a mother of three with a midsection problem. I also have a seventeen year old daughter is that is curve (37,34,41 ½) and I am sewing for junior prom. So I just want to thank you for this video.
Wow, i am watching your video on my tv and using phone to comment. Thank you so much, you touched on a sensitive subject and done it so well, i wanted to find videos that covered these subjects ❤️
I’m trying to start up a small business before I graduate HS it’s my goal. I wanted to not only carry my size (I’m pretty small) but I wanted to carry plus and medium sizes too I’ve been trying to figure out how to make plus size at home and this really helps! Thank you so much!!!
Omg you just greeat zoe this video really teaches alot and its really kind thinkin about plus size like i never expect a so clear video like this so keep goin zoe our best teacher lol much love from africa
Thank you Zoe for this amazing get real video and all the useful tipps.I am starting out as a plus size fashion designer and my focus will be on figure hugging silhouette to accentuate womens beautiful curves.
Hi Zoe! This video is right on point! I have also had my weight and body proportions fluctuate and nothing is more frustrating or heartbreaking than trying to find a cute or sexy outfit and not being able to find anything that fits.I am a Costume Design major at AAU but I also enjoy fashion design as well.I completely agree with every point you've made and hopefully when it's my turn to be a designer in either realm I will be able to design so my actors feel beautiful and stylish regardless of size.
Also I've seen many "regular" sized outfits that I feel could've just been made bigger and it would've been great but they won't do it. The designers or the corporate whatever owner people could just upside it and it would still be cohesive and beautiful but apparently they like seeing us in frumpy dumpy clothes. They don't value us enough to add a few sizes to include all women. Sorry watching project runway and it's fun to watch but also kinda frustrating. Plus sized women are forgotten in everything, fashion, medicine, entertainment (roller coasters and theater seats and even seats at restaurants for example), airplane seats! It's just frustrating to be fluffy sometimes.
Having big arms, I'm always looking for professional but cool, light, and airy sleeves. 3/4 loose raglan or slightly belled sleeves are perfect to cover your arms for a professional look, and keep you cool at the same time. In a nice, breathable around about 95% cotton/ 5% spandex material, this style feels like a dream. It's easy to find this exact type of shirt or dress in "regular" sizes. However, it's a lot more difficult to find this in plus sizes. I avoid tight, mostly polyester sleeves like the plague because it feels almost as miserable as walking around in a tightly tied glad bag might feel. Sadly, the vast majority of our options are exactly that. So stuffy and uncomfortable. It really seems like wearing trash bags is what the fashion industry thinks larger women deserve. 😒 Thank you so much for teaching the upcoming generation how to construct comfortable clothing for ALL sizes.
You are soooooo awesome!!! Ah! 😍 Thank you so much! I'm doing a bunch of research and learning more about how to cater to "plus size" you just gave me so much info I have more clarity and understanding what I need to be thinking about as a designer! I'm also racking my brain on how to grade "plus size" 😩. I think I have the "mainstream sizes" grading down. Oh and I'm a designer and pattern maker.
Great video. You really hit the nail on the head about the problems normal women face with clothing. “What about all the people in the middle?” AMEN. Some of us are somewhere between typical model-thin and plus size. Also, the plus size models make me feel inadequate because they have the “ideal” proportions (hourglass figures). I have no butt or hips and comparatively thin legs, but I gain weight in my face (double chin sort of thing) and midsection. I also have broad shoulders due to my bone structure. Plus size models always seem to have have smaller waists and no double chins. They have “curves” in their hips, thighs, butt, and breasts. Also, even when I am at my thinnest (I tend to fluctuate), I still have a double chin and fat in the middle...it’s just to a lesser extent. Also, not everyone is tall! I’m 5’4” and I know several girls who are shorter than I am. People like me just don’t have representation. Why can’t sizing be universal? Why is a 6 in one store an 8 in another store, and a 10 in yet another? Especially when we live in a society that makes you feel certain ways about those numbers. How are you supposed to know what size to buy online at a new store you haven’t shopped from yet? I’m watching this in 2020, and shopping really needs to be done online right now! You made a good point about using measurements. We could more easily look for things that will have the right fit in at least most body areas. I can’t tell you how many times pants have felt tight in the waist, but have a huge gap in the butt area! Then I have to get the pants hemmed because they’re too long... And the pocket thing... that is so annoying when you have tiny pockets or even fake pockets! On a side note: all jeans should be soft. There seems to be more of a trend toward that these days, thankfully. When I was a kid, I hated jeans soooo much because the fabric felt so stiff and restrictive. Sometimes the hardware can be uncomfortable too. I’ve been able to find jeggings that look just like your typical skinny jeans (especially if you get slightly bigger sized ones). I have found some regular jeans that are softer now as well. Anyway... I’m glad you’re teaching future designers to work on fixing these problems!
A design esthetic that's refined, thoughtful and lovingly detailed is my dream for all. I hope you don't mind my saying, but your focus in the direction of larger sizes would make me especially happy. I'm a size 18. I sew for myself or buy really comfy pima cotton. I'd love to wear your clothes.
You have a new sub here. I’m both a plus size customer and a seamstress and you’re absolutely right nothing out there really fits a petite plus size that gains weight in a certain area. I’m lucky enough to sew and be able to refit clothes I like to make them fit but plus size is also more expensive so it’s crazy. I tried on some jean shorts that fit(stretchy, of course) but they had fake pockets and a fake fly! Wth?! 😂
Love you Zoe for your true aesthetic sense which encompasses values first. Fantastic video. Have become a great fan of yours. I am watching your video series and learning step by step all about fashion designing. I just hope that I will be able to prove you my true mentor one day❤️
This video speaks to me so much. I know exactly how it feels like on the opposite of the spectrum. I have always had such brand loyalty to Abercrombie and Fitch (for better worse) because they truly understand my body shape and sold me on how cool I was for it. Every body shape deserves that store. Or how I have brand loyalty to any company with true sizing, with numbers that mean something, because I don't feel shamed for being so skinny, and I don't have to try on a million sizes. and God I hate the term plus size.
Le=t me add another, "I love you". Because "I love you" was what I was saying out loud while I was watching. And my kids were looking at me like I was very strange. But seriously, you have an amazing mind and inspiring talent. Thank you for putting some common sense thoughts out there. Question: Don't fashion designers have to try on clothes for themselves too? Clearly, it can be very stressful and time-consuming to find the right fit no matter the body type. There are so many measurement points to the body. My take away: It is up to us to make change happen. And that is what I intend to focus my energy on. Thanks again. You rock!
>>Don't fashion designers have to try on clothes for themselves too? No. Not every designer designs for themselves. I encourage designers to discover a target market to dress and design around catering to the needs of that market. A designer can be inspired by their own needs in the marketplace, but it's not necessary to be a good designer. But you're right, it is up to designers to make change, create clothes that work for underserved markets. Thanks for your compliments! Good luck!
I have a curiosity about fashion perspective for plus size bodies. Why its so difficult for most fashion designers put average bodies in fashion shows, ads, whatever? Why this resistance? Is it a matter of pattern making, costs or displaying normal/plus size bodies it's not "trendy"? It's odd when I see models proportions like 1,80 m tall and 60 cm of waist using tight fitted clothes that looks uncomfortable and not "cute" in any average women.
Re: fashion shows and ads: To a certain extent, fashion is about aspiration and fantasy and the models who grace shows and ads reflect the ideal proportions of the time period. It's really our mindset and demands of what's shown in the media that needs to change. It's a bit of a vicious cycle.
Yes I agree! For me each country had different beauty standart. The problem is the main fashion houses/trendsetters are trying to create a universal beauty that doesn't work in my opinion. In my country, for example, most women are curvy (huge breast,hips and small waist) and popular brands in fashion, cosmetics use fitted models but not not anorexic ones. It's funny when Victoria Secret's put "anorexic bombshells" to sell millions of underwear garment for a country that most women are overweight. I'm a pattern making novice and basically we start with a thigh fitted sloper, just to understand the basics and make a "blueprint" of the clients body. I use my mom as model which she is curvy and slightly overweight. When I put the dress sloper on her, doesn't look bad at all but definitely would look better if she had a slender figure. I want to make garments that look "cute" and comfortable for each body size, but it's hard when most women want a specific/trend cloth that isn't proper for her body.
Hi Zoe, you are fantastic! I am self-taught and have had no success in grading patterns for "plus size" clients. I've also tried to make plus size bodice patterns from measurements and the curve ruler never quite works for the armhole. Please direct me to a learning tool that could help.
One of my biggest gripes is the fact that “plus size” clothing scales everything up except the bust. I’ve bought clothes online that fit well everywhere but the bust. I’ve got proportionally large boobs on my large body so the swimwear I purchased fits on the bottom (apart from the leg holes being humongous) but my cups runners over, if you know what I mean. Well, to be honest, I can’t even squeeze the girls in the bikini tops! And people wonder why I end up sticking to wearing leggings and T-shirts!
As a fat woman, I have to say- what I cinder to be figure flattering is obviously not what some designers (particularly those that design for the box stores like target, or the cheaper brands) find figure flattering. When I wear what they consider to be “flattering”, I look like I’m wearing a lary tent, with big, out there, ugly patterns (and a lot of neon animal prints, apparently). But when I wear something I consider to be figure flattering, it’s usually something with a very New Look style silhouette or even a Late Victorian and Edwardian style silhouette- now those silhouettes are flattering to my figure! Not so much a weird layered neon print tent muumuu thing. The only plus sized store with “affordable” (I’m actually too poor to afford them, hence making my own clothing, but they’re the high street plus size alternative) is City Chic. And I know in Australia at least, they’ve cornered the market on cute/sexy/trendy and even classically flattering plus size clothing that is at least decently made. But even they aren’t over on the very trendy. Like right now late Victorian and Edwardian style blouses are in fashion, but they don’t exist in my size unless I make them. Same can be said for the gorgeous 1890s ice skating sweaters I’ve seen Nordstrom making, and the tweed vests that are back in style (there’s obviously a bit of an Edwardian revival going on now, and I am here for it!) So even though City Chic produced figure flattering clothes that aren’t frumpy, they’re also not high fashion, and sometimes we just want something trendy and super stylish. I have yet to find it. Which is why I make my own clothes. But not every fat woman has the time and ability to do that, and we shouldn’t be expected to. Side note: Victorian and Edwardian skirts have massive pockets (fit a while damn book in them size pockets), and the big circle skirts can also fit massive pockets in them.
Where the hell are you? Because you have tapped into my mind and frustration! How can we change that! I am not a designer, I am a wearer of clothes! I want the same clothing that usually only comes up to size12, expanded to accommodate up to a size 26. I am my customer! I don’t want to follow trends, I want to wear what makes me look absolutely stunning, classy, elegant, sophisticated, timeless, and drop dead gorgeous! Who’s designing that?
I’m currently a size Medium, Large. And size a size 10,12, and 14. Not a lie. Also both two jeans from Target, same brand one black, the other blue....tell me why the black one don’t have pockets on the front but the blue ones do? Like......
I LOVE your commentary on the contrast women's "plus-sizes" and men's clothing sizes based on actual numbers or "Big and Tall." :) Is it even remotely possible to use a method for sizing women's clothing that is more similar to men's? Or would that do crazy things to women's psychology? Bras are done a little bit more that way, at least....
I have small shoulders and no waistline. Therefore I come across rectangular. I need to wear 4x. I do not like tight clothing...only loose which covers my bulges. Some stores like red target only carry up to 2x. The stores are carrying 3 and up on line instead of in the store. You cannot try anything on unless in the store. I appreciate your info. Pretty soon we will be stuck wearing a caftan.
I have been a size EU 40 and after covid and depression I became a size 54. The biggest issue for me is that women will hold weight in different areas of the body so two women weighing the same and using same size, may fit different patterns/styles. For example, I am apple body shaped so i have narrow shoulders and slim legs but i have no waist and i have a lower gut (fupa) which means trousers look terrible on me due to my big lower gut and i look much better in empire chest and Aline dresses. My gut will make my front part of dress appear shorter than my back though. I found that small pattern flowy fabrics suit me best. Im fed up not finding bright happy colors and modern patterns (sick of boring flowers) so I decided to learn how to sew my own dresses and now im on a whole new journey of making my own clothes focused on high quality natural fibers pieces that make me feel like myself. Im on a weight loss journey and have already lost 35kg but im all for embracing my body wherever its at and that means wearing cute clothes that i love along my journey instead of waiting to reach my goal and have a new wardrove. I always say the fat version of me is the hardworking strong version of me because it is the version who has to make the most effort to get me to my healthier fitter version so im not body shaming myself, that is not at all helpful!
I wish all clothing was sold by measurements. I know what the finished garment measurements of my favorite clothing items. It's a lot more accurate than arbitrary numbers like 8 or 14.
I would like to make a point that plus sized tends to be frump because for example any two 350 lb women can be vastly more different in shape/where they hold their weight compared to say any two 140lb women. unless you want to make a handfull of different cuts for each size.
Hello Zoe, thank you for your video. There was a lot of informative stuff here. However as an experienced designer I will have to perhaps slightly disagree with parts of it. It seems that when it comes to the plus size market its always the designers who are not doing a good enough job, or are blamed for ignoring the curvier ladies altogether. To a certain degree this is true. It is also not always the case since the plus size market poses a great number of often unsurmountable obstacles. As a result a lot of us decide to give it a pass , even when we d really love to do a beautiful job at it. The two main problems are costs and also the fit. You rightly said that grading sizes up straight from the regular pattern often results in poor fit results. You also mentioned that our curvier friends would like to find great fashionable clothes that fit them well and dont cost too much. Democratically all ladies have this right and all ladies should have it. In practice though when you are trying to sustain a successful business it is impossible to create so many different fits depending on where each customer is curvier or larger in proportion to the rest of their body. You cannot possibly just specialize on plus size clothes that cater to ladies that gain more inches on the top body , or the lower body for that matter. Even if you decide to do that and you compare two people with the same measurement on top , one may have it all on the bust and the other not so much there ,as on their back. You cannot as a business create such small niches because you will simply won't have a business. What is the answer one would say? Having realistic expectations would be my answer. Everyone from smaller to larger would benefit from tailoring their favorite pieces. Very few people fit clothes like a glove off the peg and expecting to find a brand that will do that for you regardless of your size is simply day dreaming. My other answer and this is to everyone not just the curvier ladies " be prepared to buy less pieces and invest more money in the pieces you buy". We have created this monster called fast fashion and everyone in every size looks terrible. Companies that can charge, more more often than not can afford to invest more on the quality and refining the fit (although there are exceptions to the rule). You mentioned not using just stretch fabrics. My personal philosophy is unless you are having something custom made never ever ever buy anything fitted that doesn't have at least 4 % stretch to it.You have more chances of winning the lottery than a woven fitted garment fitting you well with no stretch directly off the peg, regardless of your size. Looser styles is another matter but where you want close fit, fabrics with stretch content any day. To summarize I would say to the plus size ladies. Of course you have the same right as everyone else to look amazing in fantastic clothes. Support any designer who is making a genuine effort to provide you with a quality beautiful product. Dont expect to buy this amazing dress at 59.99 and nor should any woman have that expectation regardless of her size. Invest in fewer higher quality pieces and have them tailored to your body when possible. The market is not giving you all you need or you deserve. But the plus size market also needs your feedback and support in order to grow and do better for you .
Seriously? You thought it was a good idea to say serving a substantial portion of the population is TOO DIFFICULT and TOO EXPENSIVE? Thanks for reminding us that only men and women shaped like men actually count. I’ll be following the designers who are listening to people like Zoe, thank you. She’s talking sense. What I’m hearing from you is mostly just the same old tired excuses. If companies can focus on all those different sub groups of men, then YES, they could design for different types of women’s (or non-binary, or …) bodies. It just takes someone choosing to do it. Yes, it takes more effort. Yes, it might cost slightly more. No, we should not be asked to ALWAYS bear the cost of “the fat tax”. Spread it out. Understand that larger people also deserve decent clothing without paying through the nose. Think about laying out patterns in different ways, like putting size 2 pieces next to size 18 pieces, so they fit on the fabric better, with less waste. Do NOT blame it on fat people posing “insurmountable problems”! They are only insurmountable because you - designers, manufacturers - are not CHOOSING to overcome them.
There was once a line of pants that went by your waist size and hip size seperately and I found a pair that was amazing and they fit me. And they got bought out and discontinued the line and I never found a pair of pants that fit me again.
I love your ideas and teaching style! My dream would be to start a very niche brand with alternative models (trendy Asian fashion with different plus size shapes in mind) I'm no designer but I like to think I'm great at picking out clothing catering to the aesthetics mentioned. Your video gave me hope that the particular niche market that I have in mind can succeed. Thank you! ❤
You can also team up with a designer and work on something together. I think your brand idea is really great (sounds like something I'd potentially love to wear). Have you checked out Punyus? It's a Japanese brand designed by a plus size Japanese comedian. It's super cute.
That's a great idea about teaming up with a designer. I'm glad to know that you think my brand idea might suit you! And yes, I've heard of Punyus! I own a couple of their items actually. I've lived in Japan, Korea, and Thailand from 2012 to 2016 so I've had a lot of exposure to the fashion in those countries. Punyus is super cute but in my opinion their price point is a bit high for me. I've found other cute (but few) plus size brands that were available in Japan for a much lower price point without compromising in quality (ex. Shimamura & Avail). I want to produce cute, affordable, & great quality plus size clothing! No compromises because I know it can be done.
The current popularity of puffy or 3/4 sleeves and dark colors for "big" women is not what I wear or what I sew. Go go Bright colors, proportionate patterns and allowing for the pants that cover the backside without sliding down when you walk.
I like Watching videos about how to draw plus size fashion body types because I don't see too many of them on TH-cam your videos help me out a lot on drawing plus size characters like I use to draw my little miss darkness character stick skinny and boney in the pass 4 years I started drawing her plus size more curvier I love how she looks now being plus size because we don't have enough plus size characters in this world since I started drawing her that I started getting bigger myself too i guess little m.d wanted me to join the plus size market with her but I love wearing plus size fashion I'm really happy and proud to gain this weight think it's all pretty i used to wear size s and m now I wear size 20x so does little m.d I love the way it feels and the way little m.d looks in them I would never want to be skinny again plus size forever with me my favorites are the 1950s plus size dresses to wear me and her look cute now together btw little miss darkness is a guardian angel with magical powers who protects us from evil who went from weighing only 76 pounds to weighing 196 pounds I think she looks more beautiful and real than she did before happy new year
Hi Zoe, Thank you for all this information! I have watched a lot of your videos during quarantine and there is a topic I am curious about that I haven't seen covered so far (but please let me know if I missed it): I would love to learn about hip-waist ratios and how to design fitted high-rise pants or skirts to fit different body types (and different hip-waist ratios). I.e. if I want to design garments such as high-rise skinny pants or pencil skirts, how would my design differ if I were designing for an hourglass figure or for a more rectangular figure? I'm interested in any tips you have, from how to grade for different body types (or is it the same), whether dart placement or the number of panels used for a skirt should change to achieve perfect fit, and any random thoughts you may have on the topic. Thank you!!
>> if I want to design garments such as high-rise skinny pants or pencil skirts, how would my design differ if I were designing for an hourglass figure or for a more rectangular figure? Design wouldn't be different, you would have different fits, and label it thus. >>how to grade for different body types Fatter parts get a bit fatter. When I made grade rules for middle aged mens jackets, I made things roomier in the belly because that's where many middle aged men gain weight. Always defer to your customer's needs. >> whether dart placement or the number of panels used for a skirt should change to achieve perfect fit, If a pattern maker can't achieve a good skirt fit for mass production with 2 front darts and 2 back darts, fire them. However, if you're creating a very different fit for a niche client base, that's different, you'll need to play around and that's the fun of designing!
Hi Zoe! Blessings on you for this video. Funny it's been two years but I'm only just seeing it, like where have I been right? 😩 So even after this past years would you say the issue of fewer options for the plus size woman has been satisfactorily addressed, or can you re-upload this video and it'll still be like a gem addressing this same issue? For most here in Nigeria, we source our fabrics and take them to local tailors who to create outfits to suit our own measurement. Thus, the issue of whether or not the plus size market options are addressed is mostly only felt during fashion week (like this week) when there are not a lot of "plus size" women working the runways"... You'd have to be into the fashion work to even notice; for the most part one is either slim, okay or very faaaaat.
This video is still relevant because there has been progress but not nearly enough. I would LOVE for this video to be irrelevant because we didn't have these problems anymore. So everyone in Nigeria gets their clothes made to measure? What's the ratio of ready-made and made to measure in an average Nigerian closet?
@@zoehongteaches Thanks for your answer Zoe. I really appreciate it. Now For the ratio or made to measure and made to wear, it mostly differs based on the location the clothes are worn to and a person's everyday life. For house wears made to measure are almost non existent, with people mostly wear loose fitting shirts, sweats, shorts or just plain tying a wrapper. Made to wear excels in the corporate world. For those in that field, that's where the size difference is felt the most. Then we have the party, church and other events. Here made to measure dominates because most Nigerians don't have the patience to run from store to store looking for that outfit they liked on Instagram or on a celebrity. It's easier to just get a fabric and get a tailor to make it for you. For weddings, we turn to our local designers. The clothes are mostly ready made but can be either altered to suit your body or something else can be made for you.
Amazing video...designing for bigger women has always intrigued me...thanks for this amazing insight. N mam plz continue design process videos soon eagerly waiting😊
Thanks so much for this video Zoe, it was super insightful!! I saw a video on sizing on the channel ‘Vox’ (I think it’s called ‘Why women’s sizes are so different’). It’s just a brief summary of the history of women’s sizes and stuff, maybe you guys could check it out if you’re interested and further research from there :) Ooh there was even one on why women’s clothing have such tiny pockets😂😂
A minute and half into this video, and I couldn't continue without making a comment... Zoe Hong, I love you. LMAO! This comment is long overdue, (I've been watching your videos for a few months now...) but c'est la vie... Thanks for being so awesome (funny, sarcastic, fabulous, etc.) and for sharing your talents with the internet!
I have shopped plus size, but the assumption is that women who are over size 18, are also tall with D - E size bra cups. So I make my own clothes (in silk, wool and linen). Unfortunately, the commercial patterns are designed for the same shape people that ready-to-wear clothes fit.
Zoe, can you please tell me why pants pockets fan out even when the pants fit? Sometimes they make a horrible gape or wing on the side of your hip. What is it that I should try to avoid when I'm shopping or deciding what to sew? Up until now, all I can do is try them on first so I can never ever buy pocketed pants online or look at a design and know if I want to sew it for myself. I usually have to just sew the pockets closed. I have a mild pannus like many women who have had four children, so I look for generous cuts in the broad bottom part but this is up higher, between the waist and the hip bone (although I am short so unfortunately there is not that great a distance between the two).
Slash pockets were not meant to be curving around hips. Slash pockets only really look smooth and flat on (usually mens) trousers with a looser fit. When any kind of opening goes around a curve, it's going to gap.
I’m plus sized and I hate stripes that go around instead of up and down. I can’t stand big prints.and I’m 5’2” and shirt and dress sleeves are way too long and pant width s are way too big and I think the designers think if you are plus size you must be 6’ or 7’ tall so I sew clothes from 1700 up to 1920’s I don’t like modern clothes at all
I want designers and "Plus size fashion designers" to stop throwing flowers over every damn piece of clothing they make for larger sized people. I call them "fat girl patterns." You know, just make their clothes with the leftover material used for upholstery making...UGH! Miss Zoe, you are a Godsend. Thank you for keeping things real in this world of fashion for all people.
Oh god yes!!!
I'd also ask for wraps to please go away but that's is my style and preference!
Im making plus sized clothing....i am plus sized also....would you like to see trendy or figure flattering ?
I agree not only do we have to go in the back of EVERY department store to get to our sizes .. then we come out looking like a walking flower gardens UGH 🤦🏽♀️
Omg yes! Plus girls want the same prints as the tiny ladies. But I dont want it to just be sized up.
@@dewuknowofHyMn figure flattering
This summer I’m coming out with plus sizes clothes. My wife is plus and I ve been sewing her few things. Now I want to take to the next level. I’m originally from Ghana west Africa so I’m going to mostly use african fabric for my designs. The reason is to show what africans ve and also I want to be diff. Thanks for you videos and I m taking it very seriously
Thank you SO much for this. My daughter was cruelly fat-shamed, so I have been re-designing my upcycled fashions and having her model them for me. I shared them in several sewing groups on Facebook, and the positive response has just been overwhelming. My larger size items I call them "goddess size" in hopes of further boosting body positivity. As a seamstress and mother of a curvy daughter, I SO appreciate your beautiful message. I also find myself commenting whenever I see ads that don't feature larger size people. Representation in fashion is so important. Thank you again for this beautiful message! LOVE IT!!!
PS Also, I think it's TOO CHEEKY when clothes come with FAKE pockets. Oh, you thought a pocket would be super-cute and practical, but you didn't want to actually go to the work to make a functional pocket that will lay flat. I'm so impressed.
Oh yeah, fake pockets make me angry. Honestly, when you make welt pockets, it's the opening that's harder and more time consuming to sew. It's not THAT extra to add a pocket bag.
It’s like fake drawers. What’s the point? If you like the look of a pocket, just make one! Don’t get our hopes up like that!
I'm plus size and you hit the nail on the every single thing. I'm going to start a fashion company tailoring to larger women. My designs are sexy, modern, and most of all flattering to our bodies. I'm tired of going through the stores and seeing the cuter clothes that fit my style in the smaller section smh. I'm going change how everyone sees plus size.
Wonderful! Good luck!
Me too....im a designer also....wondering what would fit...trendy or figure flattering ?
@@dewuknowofHyMn I love peplum tops, ( shows off the boobs, cinches the waist, and hides the tummy) wrap tops, circle skirts, pants with a flounce/ peplum. Theres so many different things that we can wear that are flattering and sexy.
@@sewfashionable8398 .....i know i responded a long time ago....but...the problem still exists for plus size women....
Clothing is looking better though...
The problem with
"peplums on tops" ....for plus size women ...is the peplum ...when made too short...sticks straight out and actually makes ones bu_t look even larger......🤷♀️
Thank you so much, Zoe!! I am a plus size woman who belives that everybody is beautyful, no matter on what size, and everybody needs to feel gorgeous wearing fashionable clothes. 😘😘😘😘😘😘
Yes!
Thank you again for pointing out the market opportunities in the larger women and men's clothing.
I am a "plus size" and so are a few of my friends. I love your attitude and opinions you ROCK!!!!!
I design plus sized clothing...i m plus sized also.....
What would you like to see in clothing...trendy or figure flattering ?
Thank you for this, Zoe. It's an important topic. I remember when as a slightly larger child I saw Sleeping Beauty by Disney and where the fairy godmothers are making Sleeping Beauty's dress. The one being the model, who carries more weight, comments that the dress doesn't look very nice. The one designing replies 'That's because it's on you, dear.' Some might find that funny - Disney clearly did. What I learned as a child was that clothes are more important than I am and that I will never be able to wear nice clothes. I hope that you will all be able to change and challenge this idea and make the world better.
Yeah, those old Disney movies are not great in a lot of ways. They really display the views of the time, which I hope we can all move away from.
You have hit the nail on the head and covered all the issues. Thank you.
I am getting back into sewing for myself (a plus size person) and I SUPER DUPER DUPER appreciate your videos!
Triple love~
Not plus sized but I have eyeballs who can see limitations of marketing, designing and psyche control. I like and agree with pockets comment - and not that faux crap but actual pockets with a function and a usable sized pocket bag! Designer showcases seldom integrate plus sizes in collections but rather treat them as a separate class of sizing. Thanks for this. I want to make gorgeous garments for my friends of all sizes. Gonna get to it.
Thank you so much for addressing this! I am considered plus size “curvy hourglass” . I actually decided to start designing and constructing outfits for me because shopping is to much. Love this conversation and you! So glad I found your TH-cam! :)
This was the best video describing the problem larger women have with finding clothes that make us feel sexy!!! I found this video because I hate most of the clothes that are out there for us, and I decided to start making my own. So thank you for this.. You have found a new fan, please keep up the good work.
I am with you on the pockets. It's just so much better to have the option to put your keys and phone somewhere that's not a bag.
everything you said is absolutely trueeeeee....
P.s. I am a plus size since I was born
Me too
Loved your channel based on your first comment about no shaming will be tolerated. 👏💕your awesome! We all hate the term plus size.
Except for when it comes to BRAS! Now that doesn't seem to bother me at all, unless I can't find one that fits that I can afford.
Zoe if my religion wasn't Beyzanism, it would be Zoeism. I've been binge watching for a week and I love your style and humour. Thanks for the inspiring content.
Thank you and you're welcome!
hey Zoe, this is Amber, i was preparing for portfolio but i had no clue what to do, so i searched the internet and saw your videos. I want to say you are amazing. not only to design part but also some positve and kind attitude about poeple and world. you helped me a lot with fashion learning and the way to think about design. i'm sure plenty of people feel the same way, thank you a lot! have a great day!
Hey Amber, thanks for your comment! You're welcome, and you have a great day too!
Yes! I'm so glad to know that all of my questions and concerns are legitimate! My design career is definitely starting on the right track.
Honestly a lot of this is good advice for overall sizing. I've always wondered why women's clothing isn't done by measurements because most of the time we have a lot of variation across our bodies. Like I have a 34 inch bust, but my butt measurement is a 40 inches, but another woman might be in the same "size" as me and have an hourglass figure. A lot of clothes are designed for what looks good on size 0-2 and then designers and manufacturers just increase the size across the board so it's a struggle to find flattering clothes even for non "plus" size women. I can't imagine how much harder it would be if I was in a size group that most stores didn't even sell.
You preached in this video, Zoe. Go off! Love, the plus-sized seamstress
Thank you for giving us big girls a voice! I agree to everything you just said about “frumpy plus” fashion that never fits properly.
Zoe, I just found your channel, and now I'm hooked! This video, in particular, encapsulates everything I have been thinking, for years! My weight is in constant flux, and I have worn everything from a size 2 to a 16 (whatever that means, as you stated!). I cannot begin to describe the vast difference in my clothing choices and self-esteem, from when I was thinner, to the present moment. As a size 2, I could express my aesthetic, in any way I chose, and shopping was a breeze. As a size 16, my freedom of expression has been squashed, my choices are limited, and I end up hating myself, every time I purchase clothing, leading me to a life of sweatpants, leggings, and a closet full of black. I truly hope that both established and upcoming designers take your advice, and focus more on different body shapes, actual measurements, and pattern-making. Just because we have a few pounds, on us, doesn't mean we don't want to look just as cool and sexy as our slimmer counterparts. Sending you love and kudos!
YES! THANK YOU! Pockets are needed for women’s pants/slacks. And the sizing sucks! Thank you! 👏🏻
You are a fashion sage and are speaking the truth! Thank you for your intelligent, clear, strong breakdowns on this topic. Sooooo right!
It would be wonderful to have a designer create a line for peri-menopause and menopausal age women. I’ve never been a tiny woman, but I’ve also never been this size before and no matter what I’ve tried, the weight around my middle absolutely will not budge. It’s scary, and frustrating to not even feel like you are yourself any more and to have no idea how to dress your new body. As an amateur seamstress myself, I want to just make my own wardrobe myself because there really is nothing out there that has good fit. Maybe when I retire, I’ll go to design school and help!?
Hi Christy, what a relief that I am not alone on this. This is exactly why I am looking into enrolling in a fashion course at age 53. I hit menopause last year and I noticed my body shape is changing. I am 5 feet 2 and I can't find anything that fits.
@@vividtoto I’ll be on the lookout for your line! Have you thought about what you’ll call it?
@@Grannievore I will be content producing comfortable and lovely clothes for myself :)
You're amazing, your contents are wow and you humour ❤️
My best two girlfriends are fat and tall with big boobs and huge butts. I love them and I wanted them to stop feeling insecure about their curves so instead of sewing quilts, I offered to make clothes for them. Which meant learning how to sew clothes first, but I'm determined to help them by making clothes that will make them feel beautiful. I made one of them a giant fluffy bathrobe so she can go on her regular sauna trips without having to worry about anything showing or falling out. The look on her face once she put it on was worth a million bucks. Thanks Zoe for speaking on it!
That's so awesome that you did that! You're a good friend.
Giant fluffy bathrobes, you found a Niche Market! I want one! The stupid robes in the stores are never long enough. When I was younger and skinny, I used to buy a Large or XL trying to get the length right for the hem and the arm length. Now, I wear an XL. I am buying some Chenille and making myself one as soon as I get my Sewing Shed set up.
Yes to measurements!!
What is life beyond knit?!
Let's make those options!!
Thank you VERY MUCH for this video. As a much larger than "normal" guy (I'm just shy of 6' 2", and while I look like I'm only about 265, I break the scales at often around 330lbs, sometimes upwards of 350 depending on the time of year and how much work I've been doing), I find it hard to get jeans that fit these tree-trunk-sized thighs and only slightly smaller calves that also fit in the waist. Same thing with my shirts (I look like Donkey Kong on top and and Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson below my hips). My wife, while not classed as "fat", is right on that border between "normal" and "plus-sized", and has a helluva time trying to find clothes that fit her (or I do when I buy her something to wear). So my brain farted last winter and I drew up a few (EXTREMELY) basic sketches for clothing for "plus-sized" women, from the inside to the outside (only thing I haven't gotten to yet are things like jackets). And I did talk to my friends, many of whom are of the "plus-sized" persuasion (either in height or girth, and in a couple cases both), and they all had the same complaints: the clothes they could find were highly functional, but extremely uninteresting, oftentimes didn't last, more often than not didn't fit right, and usually cost about the same as shipping a baby grand piano to the moon. Same thing with my bigger guy friends (and I'll be working on sketching a line for them too when I get done the women's line), but the biggest thing I've heard from all of them is this: MAKE THEM LAST LONGER (and ADD SOME FRIGGIN' POCKETS ALREADY!!! lol). They also agreed heartily with the statement that oftentimes "plus-sized" clothing looked like someone took a bolt of cloth, wrapped it around a whiskey barrel and sewed the ends together, or just added a zipper or a row of buttons, and maybe a strip of elastic at one end. Guess I better learn how to do patterns, and find a good sewing machine. And no, I'm not buying one online, because it'd take six months to get it here since I live way out in the middle of nowhere (takes the Postal Service, a wagon train, and three dogsled teams to get the mail out to here some years lol but in reality it's a two-hour drive each way to get to a town that actually has a store dedicated to anything sewing-related now, and pretty much all of those are dedicated to quilting instead of clothing). Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, but I still have a lotta videos to go through lol
I'm not really sure what you're asking for. If you want to start a business for large size clothing, you can watch my Starting a Fashion Company series. If you want to learn how to make clothes, you can start at my Garment Construction playlist.
That is so true!! I am with you… Thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge with us.. We are so lucky!..
This is so inspiring - you nailed all of it.
I am so glad you created this video because society has considered my body type as plus size. I am not plus sized although I wear a size 10 and am a mother of three with a midsection problem. I also have a seventeen year old daughter is that is curve (37,34,41 ½) and I am sewing for junior prom. So I just want to thank you for this video.
I have never watched you before and I love your personality. Thank you❤
I am a beginning designer and your videos are super helpful thank you so much!
Bravo and I love your sense of humour ❤
Wow, i am watching your video on my tv and using phone to comment. Thank you so much, you touched on a sensitive subject and done it so well, i wanted to find videos that covered these subjects ❤️
I’m trying to start up a small business before I graduate HS it’s my goal. I wanted to not only carry my size (I’m pretty small) but I wanted to carry plus and medium sizes too I’ve been trying to figure out how to make plus size at home and this really helps! Thank you so much!!!
I interned at Vera Wang and their size 12 was considered plus size. It's absolutely crazy!
That's nuts and it's sad that it's true.
I get home from design school at 6:30 just to come to Zoe's channel and watch more design school hehe
Hahaha #alwaysbepracticing #alwaysbelearning
Omg you just greeat zoe this video really teaches alot and its really kind thinkin about plus size like i never expect a so clear video like this so keep goin zoe our best teacher lol much love from africa
Thank you!
Thank you Zoe for this amazing get real video and all the useful tipps.I am starting out as a plus size fashion designer and my focus will be on figure hugging silhouette to accentuate womens beautiful curves.
Hi Zoe! This video is right on point! I have also had my weight and body proportions fluctuate and nothing is more frustrating or heartbreaking than trying to find a cute or sexy outfit and not being able to find anything that fits.I am a Costume Design major at AAU but I also enjoy fashion design as well.I completely agree with every point you've made and hopefully when it's my turn to be a designer in either realm I will be able to design so my actors feel beautiful and stylish regardless of size.
Thank you for sharing your story. Good luck with your studies!
This is the reason I want to learn to sew! I am plus sized and I haven't found anything that fits well even in plus sized shops.
Also I've seen many "regular" sized outfits that I feel could've just been made bigger and it would've been great but they won't do it. The designers or the corporate whatever owner people could just upside it and it would still be cohesive and beautiful but apparently they like seeing us in frumpy dumpy clothes. They don't value us enough to add a few sizes to include all women. Sorry watching project runway and it's fun to watch but also kinda frustrating. Plus sized women are forgotten in everything, fashion, medicine, entertainment (roller coasters and theater seats and even seats at restaurants for example), airplane seats! It's just frustrating to be fluffy sometimes.
*upsize
Love your attitude...say it like it is.
You are a Blessing. THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING!!
Having big arms, I'm always looking for professional but cool, light, and airy sleeves. 3/4 loose raglan or slightly belled sleeves are perfect to cover your arms for a professional look, and keep you cool at the same time. In a nice, breathable around about 95% cotton/ 5% spandex material, this style feels like a dream.
It's easy to find this exact type of shirt or dress in "regular" sizes.
However, it's a lot more difficult to find this in plus sizes.
I avoid tight, mostly polyester sleeves like the plague because it feels almost as miserable as walking around in a tightly tied glad bag might feel. Sadly, the vast majority of our options are exactly that. So stuffy and uncomfortable. It really seems like wearing trash bags is what the fashion industry thinks larger women deserve. 😒
Thank you so much for teaching the upcoming generation how to construct comfortable clothing for ALL sizes.
You are soooooo awesome!!! Ah! 😍 Thank you so much! I'm doing a bunch of research and learning more about how to cater to "plus size" you just gave me so much info I have more clarity and understanding what I need to be thinking about as a designer! I'm also racking my brain on how to grade "plus size" 😩. I think I have the "mainstream sizes" grading down. Oh and I'm a designer and pattern maker.
Great video. You really hit the nail on the head about the problems normal women face with clothing.
“What about all the people in the middle?”
AMEN. Some of us are somewhere between typical model-thin and plus size. Also, the plus size models make me feel inadequate because they have the “ideal” proportions (hourglass figures). I have no butt or hips and comparatively thin legs, but I gain weight in my face (double chin sort of thing) and midsection. I also have broad shoulders due to my bone structure. Plus size models always seem to have have smaller waists and no double chins. They have “curves” in their hips, thighs, butt, and breasts. Also, even when I am at my thinnest (I tend to fluctuate), I still have a double chin and fat in the middle...it’s just to a lesser extent. Also, not everyone is tall! I’m 5’4” and I know several girls who are shorter than I am. People like me just don’t have representation.
Why can’t sizing be universal? Why is a 6 in one store an 8 in another store, and a 10 in yet another? Especially when we live in a society that makes you feel certain ways about those numbers. How are you supposed to know what size to buy online at a new store you haven’t shopped from yet? I’m watching this in 2020, and shopping really needs to be done online right now! You made a good point about using measurements. We could more easily look for things that will have the right fit in at least most body areas. I can’t tell you how many times pants have felt tight in the waist, but have a huge gap in the butt area! Then I have to get the pants hemmed because they’re too long...
And the pocket thing... that is so annoying when you have tiny pockets or even fake pockets!
On a side note: all jeans should be soft. There seems to be more of a trend toward that these days, thankfully. When I was a kid, I hated jeans soooo much because the fabric felt so stiff and restrictive. Sometimes the hardware can be uncomfortable too. I’ve been able to find jeggings that look just like your typical skinny jeans (especially if you get slightly bigger sized ones). I have found some regular jeans that are softer now as well.
Anyway... I’m glad you’re teaching future designers to work on fixing these problems!
A design esthetic that's refined, thoughtful and lovingly detailed is my dream for all. I hope you don't mind my saying, but your focus in the direction of larger sizes would make me especially happy. I'm a size 18. I sew for myself or buy really comfy pima cotton. I'd love to wear your clothes.
You have a new sub here. I’m both a plus size customer and a seamstress and you’re absolutely right nothing out there really fits a petite plus size that gains weight in a certain area. I’m lucky enough to sew and be able to refit clothes I like to make them fit but plus size is also more expensive so it’s crazy. I tried on some jean shorts that fit(stretchy, of course) but they had fake pockets and a fake fly! Wth?! 😂
Fake pockets and fake fly??? WHYYYYYYY???? ugh
I know this was done a long time ago, but I wanted to share my preferences for pattern/clothing sizes. I like smaller sizes through larger sizes.
Zoe, by far your best video yet. Love it.
Love you Zoe for your true aesthetic sense which encompasses values first. Fantastic video. Have become a great fan of yours. I am watching your video series and learning step by step all about fashion designing. I just hope that I will be able to prove you my true mentor one day❤️
Thank you! Good luck with your goals!
This video speaks to me so much. I know exactly how it feels like on the opposite of the spectrum. I have always had such brand loyalty to Abercrombie and Fitch (for better worse) because they truly understand my body shape and sold me on how cool I was for it. Every body shape deserves that store. Or how I have brand loyalty to any company with true sizing, with numbers that mean something, because I don't feel shamed for being so skinny, and I don't have to try on a million sizes.
and God I hate the term plus size.
"plus size" is the worst. I think changing mindsets has a lot to do with what we call things.
Le=t me add another, "I love you". Because "I love you" was what I was saying out loud while I was watching. And my kids were looking at me like I was very strange. But seriously, you have an amazing mind and inspiring talent. Thank you for putting some common sense thoughts out there. Question: Don't fashion designers have to try on clothes for themselves too? Clearly, it can be very stressful and time-consuming to find the right fit no matter the body type. There are so many measurement points to the body. My take away: It is up to us to make change happen. And that is what I intend to focus my energy on. Thanks again. You rock!
>>Don't fashion designers have to try on clothes for themselves too?
No. Not every designer designs for themselves. I encourage designers to discover a target market to dress and design around catering to the needs of that market. A designer can be inspired by their own needs in the marketplace, but it's not necessary to be a good designer. But you're right, it is up to designers to make change, create clothes that work for underserved markets. Thanks for your compliments! Good luck!
The Best! I'm going to put in a 'plus size' assignment in my class!
Yes!
I have a curiosity about fashion perspective for plus size bodies. Why its so difficult for most fashion designers put average bodies in fashion shows, ads, whatever? Why this resistance? Is it a matter of pattern making, costs or displaying normal/plus size bodies it's not "trendy"? It's odd when I see models proportions like 1,80 m tall and 60 cm of waist using tight fitted clothes that looks uncomfortable and not "cute" in any average women.
Re: fashion shows and ads: To a certain extent, fashion is about aspiration and fantasy and the models who grace shows and ads reflect the ideal proportions of the time period. It's really our mindset and demands of what's shown in the media that needs to change. It's a bit of a vicious cycle.
Yes I agree! For me each country had different beauty standart. The problem is the main fashion houses/trendsetters are trying to create a universal beauty that doesn't work in my opinion. In my country, for example, most women are curvy (huge breast,hips and small waist) and popular brands in fashion, cosmetics use fitted models but not not anorexic ones. It's funny when Victoria Secret's put "anorexic bombshells" to sell millions of underwear garment for a country that most women are overweight.
I'm a pattern making novice and basically we start with a thigh fitted sloper, just to understand the basics and make a "blueprint" of the clients body. I use my mom as model which she is curvy and slightly overweight. When I put the dress sloper on her, doesn't look bad at all but definitely would look better if she had a slender figure. I want to make garments that look "cute" and comfortable for each body size, but it's hard when most women want a specific/trend cloth that isn't proper for her body.
Wonderful video! Thank you
Ms Zoe🌺🤗🌺
Hi Zoe, you are fantastic! I am self-taught and have had no success in grading patterns for "plus size" clients. I've also tried to make plus size bodice patterns from measurements and the curve ruler never quite works for the armhole. Please direct me to a learning tool that could help.
One of my biggest gripes is the fact that “plus size” clothing scales everything up except the bust. I’ve bought clothes online that fit well everywhere but the bust. I’ve got proportionally large boobs on my large body so the swimwear I purchased fits on the bottom (apart from the leg holes being humongous) but my cups runners over, if you know what I mean. Well, to be honest, I can’t even squeeze the girls in the bikini tops! And people wonder why I end up sticking to wearing leggings and T-shirts!
Separates are really helpful in plus sizes.
As a fat woman, I have to say- what I cinder to be figure flattering is obviously not what some designers (particularly those that design for the box stores like target, or the cheaper brands) find figure flattering.
When I wear what they consider to be “flattering”, I look like I’m wearing a lary tent, with big, out there, ugly patterns (and a lot of neon animal prints, apparently). But when I wear something I consider to be figure flattering, it’s usually something with a very New Look style silhouette or even a Late Victorian and Edwardian style silhouette- now those silhouettes are flattering to my figure! Not so much a weird layered neon print tent muumuu thing.
The only plus sized store with “affordable” (I’m actually too poor to afford them, hence making my own clothing, but they’re the high street plus size alternative) is City Chic. And I know in Australia at least, they’ve cornered the market on cute/sexy/trendy and even classically flattering plus size clothing that is at least decently made.
But even they aren’t over on the very trendy. Like right now late Victorian and Edwardian style blouses are in fashion, but they don’t exist in my size unless I make them. Same can be said for the gorgeous 1890s ice skating sweaters I’ve seen Nordstrom making, and the tweed vests that are back in style (there’s obviously a bit of an Edwardian revival going on now, and I am here for it!)
So even though City Chic produced figure flattering clothes that aren’t frumpy, they’re also not high fashion, and sometimes we just want something trendy and super stylish. I have yet to find it. Which is why I make my own clothes. But not every fat woman has the time and ability to do that, and we shouldn’t be expected to.
Side note: Victorian and Edwardian skirts have massive pockets (fit a while damn book in them size pockets), and the big circle skirts can also fit massive pockets in them.
Where the hell are you? Because you have tapped into my mind and frustration! How can we change that! I am not a designer, I am a wearer of clothes! I want the same clothing that usually only comes up to size12, expanded to accommodate up to a size 26. I am my customer! I don’t want to follow trends, I want to wear what makes me look absolutely stunning, classy, elegant, sophisticated, timeless, and drop dead gorgeous! Who’s designing that?
So happy you’ve created a plus size video
I’m currently a size Medium, Large. And size a size 10,12, and 14. Not a lie. Also both two jeans from Target, same brand one black, the other blue....tell me why the black one don’t have pockets on the front but the blue ones do? Like......
Thank you Zoe. Just love your videos❤❤❤❤
I LOVE your commentary on the contrast women's "plus-sizes" and men's clothing sizes based on actual numbers or "Big and Tall." :) Is it even remotely possible to use a method for sizing women's clothing that is more similar to men's? Or would that do crazy things to women's psychology? Bras are done a little bit more that way, at least....
Yes, we already shop this way for bras and a lot of womenswear brands do this for pants. We just need to keep going!
Thank you for calling out the detractive language of mysogny and the reality of the fashion market sloper standards.
I have small shoulders and no waistline. Therefore I come across rectangular. I need to wear 4x. I do not like tight clothing...only loose which covers my bulges. Some stores like red target only carry up to 2x. The stores are carrying 3 and up on line instead of in the store. You cannot try anything on unless in the store. I appreciate your info. Pretty soon we will be stuck wearing a caftan.
The pants do not have enough room in the crotch area which you need in order to seat down comfortably.
I have been a size EU 40 and after covid and depression I became a size 54. The biggest issue for me is that women will hold weight in different areas of the body so two women weighing the same and using same size, may fit different patterns/styles. For example, I am apple body shaped so i have narrow shoulders and slim legs but i have no waist and i have a lower gut (fupa) which means trousers look terrible on me due to my big lower gut and i look much better in empire chest and Aline dresses. My gut will make my front part of dress appear shorter than my back though. I found that small pattern flowy fabrics suit me best. Im fed up not finding bright happy colors and modern patterns (sick of boring flowers) so I decided to learn how to sew my own dresses and now im on a whole new journey of making my own clothes focused on high quality natural fibers pieces that make me feel like myself. Im on a weight loss journey and have already lost 35kg but im all for embracing my body wherever its at and that means wearing cute clothes that i love along my journey instead of waiting to reach my goal and have a new wardrove. I always say the fat version of me is the hardworking strong version of me because it is the version who has to make the most effort to get me to my healthier fitter version so im not body shaming myself, that is not at all helpful!
Thanks for everything you do. I am learning so much from you. I want to design for Talls as we aren't necessarily Plus
I wish all clothing was sold by measurements. I know what the finished garment measurements of my favorite clothing items. It's a lot more accurate than arbitrary numbers like 8 or 14.
I would like to make a point that plus sized tends to be frump because for example any two 350 lb women can be vastly more different in shape/where they hold their weight compared to say any two 140lb women. unless you want to make a handfull of different cuts for each size.
>>unless you want to make a handfull of different cuts for each size.
That's the future.
Love this video, everything is spot on!
Hello Zoe, thank you for your video. There was a lot of informative stuff here. However as an experienced designer I will have to perhaps slightly disagree with parts of it. It seems that when it comes to the plus size market its always the designers who are not doing a good enough job, or are blamed for ignoring the curvier ladies altogether. To a certain degree this is true.
It is also not always the case since the plus size market poses a great number of often unsurmountable obstacles. As a result a lot of us decide to give it a pass , even when we d really love to do a beautiful job at it.
The two main problems are costs and also the fit. You rightly said that grading sizes up straight from the regular pattern often results in poor fit results. You also mentioned that our curvier friends would like to find great fashionable clothes that fit them well and dont cost too much. Democratically all ladies have this right and all ladies should have it. In practice though when you are trying to sustain a successful business it is impossible to create so many different fits depending on where each customer is curvier or larger in proportion to the rest of their body.
You cannot possibly just specialize on plus size clothes that cater to ladies that gain more inches on the top body , or the lower body for that matter. Even if you decide to do that and you compare two people with the same measurement on top , one may have it all on the bust and the other not so much there ,as on their back.
You cannot as a business create such small niches because you will simply won't have a business. What is the answer one would say? Having realistic expectations would be my answer. Everyone from smaller to larger would benefit from tailoring their favorite pieces. Very few people fit clothes like a glove off the peg and expecting to find a brand that will do that for you regardless of your size is simply day dreaming.
My other answer and this is to everyone not just the curvier ladies " be prepared to buy less pieces and invest more money in the pieces you buy". We have created this monster called fast fashion and everyone in every size looks terrible. Companies that can charge, more more often than not can afford to invest more on the quality and refining the fit (although there are exceptions to the rule).
You mentioned not using just stretch fabrics. My personal philosophy is unless you are having something custom made never ever ever buy anything fitted that doesn't have at least 4 % stretch to it.You have more chances of winning the lottery than a woven fitted garment fitting you well with no stretch directly off the peg, regardless of your size. Looser styles is another matter but where you want close fit, fabrics with stretch content any day.
To summarize I would say to the plus size ladies. Of course you have the same right as everyone else to look amazing in fantastic clothes. Support any designer who is making a genuine effort to provide you with a quality beautiful product. Dont expect to buy this amazing dress at 59.99 and nor should any woman have that expectation regardless of her size. Invest in fewer higher quality pieces and have them tailored to your body when possible. The market is not giving you all you need or you deserve. But the plus size market also needs your feedback and support in order to grow and do better for you .
Seriously? You thought it was a good idea to say serving a substantial portion of the population is TOO DIFFICULT and TOO EXPENSIVE? Thanks for reminding us that only men and women shaped like men actually count.
I’ll be following the designers who are listening to people like Zoe, thank you. She’s talking sense.
What I’m hearing from you is mostly just the same old tired excuses. If companies can focus on all those different sub groups of men, then YES, they could design for different types of women’s (or non-binary, or …) bodies. It just takes someone choosing to do it. Yes, it takes more effort. Yes, it might cost slightly more. No, we should not be asked to ALWAYS bear the cost of “the fat tax”. Spread it out. Understand that larger people also deserve decent clothing without paying through the nose. Think about laying out patterns in different ways, like putting size 2 pieces next to size 18 pieces, so they fit on the fabric better, with less waste. Do NOT blame it on fat people posing “insurmountable problems”! They are only insurmountable because you - designers, manufacturers - are not CHOOSING to overcome them.
Your personal opinions are respected as are mine. @@DawnDavidson
Awesome teach 😃😃😃 Thanks so much 🥰🥰🥰
Voluptuous is the term I always use.
There was once a line of pants that went by your waist size and hip size seperately and I found a pair that was amazing and they fit me. And they got bought out and discontinued the line and I never found a pair of pants that fit me again.
I love your ideas and teaching style! My dream would be to start a very niche brand with alternative models (trendy Asian fashion with different plus size shapes in mind) I'm no designer but I like to think I'm great at picking out clothing catering to the aesthetics mentioned. Your video gave me hope that the particular niche market that I have in mind can succeed. Thank you! ❤
You can also team up with a designer and work on something together. I think your brand idea is really great (sounds like something I'd potentially love to wear). Have you checked out Punyus? It's a Japanese brand designed by a plus size Japanese comedian. It's super cute.
That's a great idea about teaming up with a designer. I'm glad to know that you think my brand idea might suit you! And yes, I've heard of Punyus! I own a couple of their items actually. I've lived in Japan, Korea, and Thailand from 2012 to 2016 so I've had a lot of exposure to the fashion in those countries. Punyus is super cute but in my opinion their price point is a bit high for me. I've found other cute (but few) plus size brands that were available in Japan for a much lower price point without compromising in quality (ex. Shimamura & Avail). I want to produce cute, affordable, & great quality plus size clothing! No compromises because I know it can be done.
The current popularity of puffy or 3/4 sleeves and dark colors for "big" women is not what I wear or what I sew. Go go Bright colors, proportionate patterns and allowing for the pants that cover the backside without sliding down when you walk.
Thank you for all of this!!!
Zoe's hit it out of the ballpark (and I'm only on the introduction...)
I like Watching videos about how to draw plus size fashion body types because I don't see too many of them on TH-cam your videos help me out a lot on drawing plus size characters like I use to draw my little miss darkness character stick skinny and boney in the pass 4 years I started drawing her plus size more curvier I love how she looks now being plus size because we don't have enough plus size characters in this world since I started drawing her that I started getting bigger myself too i guess little m.d wanted me to join the plus size market with her but I love wearing plus size fashion I'm really happy and proud to gain this weight think it's all pretty i used to wear size s and m now I wear size 20x so does little m.d I love the way it feels and the way little m.d looks in them I would never want to be skinny again plus size forever with me my favorites are the 1950s plus size dresses to wear me and her look cute now together btw little miss darkness is a guardian angel with magical powers who protects us from evil who went from weighing only 76 pounds to weighing 196 pounds I think she looks more beautiful and real than she did before happy new year
Hi Zoe, Thank you for all this information! I have watched a lot of your videos during quarantine and there is a topic I am curious about that I haven't seen covered so far (but please let me know if I missed it): I would love to learn about hip-waist ratios and how to design fitted high-rise pants or skirts to fit different body types (and different hip-waist ratios). I.e. if I want to design garments such as high-rise skinny pants or pencil skirts, how would my design differ if I were designing for an hourglass figure or for a more rectangular figure? I'm interested in any tips you have, from how to grade for different body types (or is it the same), whether dart placement or the number of panels used for a skirt should change to achieve perfect fit, and any random thoughts you may have on the topic. Thank you!!
>> if I want to design garments such as high-rise skinny pants or pencil skirts, how would my design differ if I were designing for an hourglass figure or for a more rectangular figure?
Design wouldn't be different, you would have different fits, and label it thus.
>>how to grade for different body types
Fatter parts get a bit fatter. When I made grade rules for middle aged mens jackets, I made things roomier in the belly because that's where many middle aged men gain weight. Always defer to your customer's needs.
>> whether dart placement or the number of panels used for a skirt should change to achieve perfect fit,
If a pattern maker can't achieve a good skirt fit for mass production with 2 front darts and 2 back darts, fire them. However, if you're creating a very different fit for a niche client base, that's different, you'll need to play around and that's the fun of designing!
Hi Zoe! Blessings on you for this video. Funny it's been two years but I'm only just seeing it, like where have I been right? 😩
So even after this past years would you say the issue of fewer options for the plus size woman has been satisfactorily addressed, or can you re-upload this video and it'll still be like a gem addressing this same issue?
For most here in Nigeria, we source our fabrics and take them to local tailors who to create outfits to suit our own measurement. Thus, the issue of whether or not the plus size market options are addressed is mostly only felt during fashion week (like this week) when there are not a lot of "plus size" women working the runways"... You'd have to be into the fashion work to even notice; for the most part one is either slim, okay or very faaaaat.
This video is still relevant because there has been progress but not nearly enough. I would LOVE for this video to be irrelevant because we didn't have these problems anymore. So everyone in Nigeria gets their clothes made to measure? What's the ratio of ready-made and made to measure in an average Nigerian closet?
@@zoehongteaches Thanks for your answer Zoe. I really appreciate it.
Now For the ratio or made to measure and made to wear, it mostly differs based on the location the clothes are worn to and a person's everyday life. For house wears made to measure are almost non existent, with people mostly wear loose fitting shirts, sweats, shorts or just plain tying a wrapper. Made to wear excels in the corporate world. For those in that field, that's where the size difference is felt the most. Then we have the party, church and other events. Here made to measure dominates because most Nigerians don't have the patience to run from store to store looking for that outfit they liked on Instagram or on a celebrity. It's easier to just get a fabric and get a tailor to make it for you. For weddings, we turn to our local designers. The clothes are mostly ready made but can be either altered to suit your body or something else can be made for you.
Thank you for that inside look at your culture! I find how different cultures address clothing so fascinating.
Thanks for your wisdom and for your straight talk.
you're welcome!
Amazing video...designing for bigger women has always intrigued me...thanks for this amazing insight. N mam plz continue design process videos soon eagerly waiting😊
Thanks!
Thanks so much for this video Zoe, it was super insightful!! I saw a video on sizing on the channel ‘Vox’ (I think it’s called ‘Why women’s sizes are so different’). It’s just a brief summary of the history of women’s sizes and stuff, maybe you guys could check it out if you’re interested and further research from there :) Ooh there was even one on why women’s clothing have such tiny pockets😂😂
A minute and half into this video, and I couldn't continue without making a comment... Zoe Hong, I love you. LMAO! This comment is long overdue, (I've been watching your videos for a few months now...) but c'est la vie... Thanks for being so awesome (funny, sarcastic, fabulous, etc.) and for sharing your talents with the internet!
Aw, thank you! I guess you just held all your compliments and balled them up into one big comment. Thank you and you're welcome!
☺️💕
You are So Right !
"Delicious snacks" I'm dying Zoe LOL love you Xo
Girl! You are so right on👍🏻
I have shopped plus size, but the assumption is that women who are over size 18, are also tall with D - E size bra cups. So I make my own clothes (in silk, wool and linen). Unfortunately, the commercial patterns are designed for the same shape people that ready-to-wear clothes fit.
Zoe, can you please tell me why pants pockets fan out even when the pants fit? Sometimes they make a horrible gape or wing on the side of your hip. What is it that I should try to avoid when I'm shopping or deciding what to sew? Up until now, all I can do is try them on first so I can never ever buy pocketed pants online or look at a design and know if I want to sew it for myself. I usually have to just sew the pockets closed. I have a mild pannus like many women who have had four children, so I look for generous cuts in the broad bottom part but this is up higher, between the waist and the hip bone (although I am short so unfortunately there is not that great a distance between the two).
Slash pockets were not meant to be curving around hips. Slash pockets only really look smooth and flat on (usually mens) trousers with a looser fit. When any kind of opening goes around a curve, it's going to gap.
so glad that you are doing this
Cheers :)
So much valuable information. Great job.
Thanks!
I’m plus sized and I hate stripes that go around instead of up and down. I can’t stand big prints.and I’m 5’2” and shirt and dress sleeves are way too long and pant width s are way too big and I think the designers think if you are plus size you must be 6’ or 7’ tall so I sew clothes from 1700 up to 1920’s I don’t like modern clothes at all
Love your videos 💕
I’m learning a lot
Keep it up 👍🏽
Grade rule is the worst! YES MORE Pockets!!!!