The BRUTAL truth (and lies) about SEWING PLUS SIZE CLOTHES!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ธ.ค. 2021
- Today I am sharing 10 truths and lies about plus size sewing. Whether it is things I have been told, things I have learned through experience or my own personal opinion. I do get pretty opinionated!!
Plus size sewing has a lot more to think about than regular size sewing, and there is still a lot of stigma that us plus size sewing people have to deal with for being large. That sometimes filters down into sewing patterns and while we have come a long way in the last couple of years, there is still progress to be made.
If a pattern company doesnt go into your size bracket then I recommend you give that company a miss! Watch my video to find out why i think this!
#plussizesewing #garmentsewing #fatstigma
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Mentioned in the video:
Style arc green dress sew along
other channel video with the green top
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Thank you for watching and for your wonderful comments! I’m reading them all and loving hearing your views! A great and well needed discussion. Please share this anywhere you think will interest people so we can get the message out there and further open dialogue x
Many years ago a boss told me I would look much taller if I wore higher heels. I polity told her at 5 ft tall the only thing would make me look taller was a pair of stilts and they weren't in the dress code
Good for you!
I learned that heel height should be proportional to shoe size, so unless you have larger feet (like me, e.g., I'm 5' tall and wear size 7 - 7 1/2 US shoe) you will look best in lower heels, even flats. I look terrible in flats, but best in a 1 1/4 - 2 inch heel; and I am so jealous of those who do look good in flats! Really high heels on short women look about as good as a comb-over on a balding man.
@@kateyare4708 lol
We have a rule, anyone around 5 ft is the correct height. Any taller is a waste of resources. Your boss needs to sit on the naughty step for that comment
@@maxine2798 love that
I've been pulled into looking inside some late victorian dress making books and almost all of them give a variety of adjustments for the different body shapes and types to, in the end, get the "fashionable silhouette" without body shaming, but rather tweeking the cut of the cloths to propperly fit the individual's body. Ready made cloths nowadays are made with the mind set of changing the body to fit the cloths/style. Which I think is a very wharped way of thinking.
I've been learning about that too. The hourglass shape is often obtained by adding padding in appropriate places.
Wow! Loving this. Any book recommendations for beginners?
I'm 76 , tall, shortwasted with really long legs. I've gained 20 pounds and can fit into my clothes. I don't like the clothes inthe stores now--for only the young, fit, or frumpy. Claire, I am so proud that you have attacked the lies about sizes... looking good is what matters. Ill-fitting does no one any favors. Thank you for this video..
Oh my goodness, I am also tall, shortwaisted with really long legs! I also gained some weight - 30 pounds from being on an antidepressant. After finally succeeding in losing some of the weight, I am still larger than I was before the medication and do not fit into many of my clothes. I totally agree that current fashion in the shops is for the young, fit, or frumpy. So frustrating.
I am tall, plus-sized but with a smaller chest and wide shoulders, and proportional lengthwise (everything on my body is just longer than any patterns or anything on the rack), so literally nothing fits as it's supposed to and hasn't for decades. 2022 is the year that I'm going to start making normal clothes for myself, and also tackling some significant costuming, which is its own nightmare for someone my size. Pretty excited for what's coming.
My brutal truth was when my bust or hips got over 44 inches, I often needed TWICE as much fabric as I did when they were under 44 inches. You might think if you are just a couple inches bigger than you used to be, you only need a little bit more fabric than you used to. But if your fabric is 44/45 inches wide, you often need twice as much fabric. When I got too big to make a pencil skirt from a single length of 44" fabric, I cried. Due to fixed standard fabric widths, there is a definite cutoff point when you will be spending double for your fabric. (and have a lot more waste).
This is why some brands charge more for plus size, but some people are upset about that. I mean I understand how they feel but the only way to keep the price the same is to raise it for all sizes.
Do you have any idea how much brands make off this. Brands need to take costings into account in the planning stages and treat everyone equally. They can absorb these costs quite easily. There’s no justification for increasing prices for plus size clothing. Otherwise bikinis would be almost free!!
@@Penguinandpear Yes and when a factory is making hundreds of the same garments, they can maximize efficiency in the layout for very little waste. Maybe cut a size 2 pant leg next to a size 16 pant leg. They fit their pattern pieces together like a puzzle to avoid waste. It's only home sewers who are usually only making one garment (from each fabric) at a time who have to buy double the fabric and waste a lot. So as home sewers our plus size garment cost us double to make, but on a factory level it doesn't.
This is why I love 60” wide fabrics! So much easier to fit all the pattern pieces on and less waste. Just made a lovely simple summer skirt with some 60” poplin.
Make yourself a block. If you have one pattern that fits you well ,you can add details and use different fabrics to create a totally different look. All of the alterations are done on the block. Make peace with your body. I have a friend who is petite and slim and has problems finding clothing small enough.If you have a favourite garment that you wear a lot,analyze what it is that you love about it. Fabric,colour,print? I find ready to wear plus size clothing sometimes has decorative touches that make them look cheap. I like plain colours,stripes,checks and some small prints. I see other wearing large florals and think they are pretty but past experience has taught me that I won’t wear them. Clare you are as charming ,entertaining and informative as ever. Have a wonderful holiday season. Black shoes,black leggings,a variety of tunics and a few accessories…I’m good.
I made my own trouser block because my body proportions aren’t right for any pattern! My widest hip point is lower than the “standard”. It’s made a world of difference, having blocks. I’ll still sometimes buy jacket patterns because I need collar help, but I’ll then overlay my block on top and adjust. Blocks have made a world of difference for me!
@@brennerc180 I've now got a princess seam block (which of course I'll have to alter if I ever start wearing a bra again :P) but I'm so intimidated with making trousers. I can usually find something that will stay on and not look too dumb in the men's department (thick waist, narrow hips, low rise, short waist), I don't even know what fits properly! I'm not a plus size but I am a weird shape, no patterns are ever made for "brick with boobs" as a shape :)
@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 It seems intimidating at first but once you try it it's not so bad. If you're interested in drafting it yourself, I really liked the one from the blog In the folds.
@@brennerc180 absolutely second this. Having a set of blocks (I’ve seen them called slopers too) is amazing, the possibilities are endless and with time and practice it becomes easier to get exactly what you want with basic style adjustments, rather than lots of fit adjustments every time.
It is confusing and difficult when you first start, but keeping at it and developing that skill is useful, money saving and incredibly satisfying as an achievement.
(My best tip is relaxing your brain and trusting the process - sometimes a question you have will be answered by reading the next couple of steps or just ‘trust falling’ and doing it, and TH-cam videos will help. My second best tip is, if you can afford it, go to a class).
The best set of instructions I’ve seen are in the Winnifred Aldrich books (but there may have been better written since) and most of the books come with instructions on style adjustments too.
Or if you absolutely cant crack making your own, you can buy customised slopers on Etsy etc (they are an investment, but probably way less than a new commercial pattern for each project).
I think pattern drafting is easier said than done. Most people will sew very quickly if they don't have to draft. I draft my patterns but it was a huge learning curve
As a plus sized woman, finding a blouse that fits nice and looks nice is almost a miracle. At a thrift store I found a simple knit tunic-style blouse with a soft flare at the hips - I adore it and you better believe I drafted a copy and made several more for myself.
When I started pattern testing, it really opened my eyes to the breadth and depth of adjustments made by sewists of all body types. Here I thought that MOST people were making the pattern as-is, and it was an issue with my size and body shape that resulted in needing to make adjustments, but that is definitely not true!
So true! I have yet to purchase a pattern that I did not have to make adjustments on. Don't even get me started on pants patterns, lol!!
@@jgsawka Absolutely. When I was 18, 125 pounds at 5'6", I still needed some adjstments (minor adjustments then, not now as an a very overweight senior) and a Vogue 10 was a little small. At that time, if I went to an expensive store possinly I could wear off the rack size 8. I cannot tell what sizes people wear. I work at a chain store that sells fabric. People will ask me how much fabric they need. Sometimes I tell them about sizing being different thsn off the rack, but probably have offended them. Many who ask are havng something made for them so their seamstress probably does the fitting adjustments.
We are all different, so unfortunately adjustments will always be necessary for anything mass produced. Patterns are also mass produced product that is supposed to be used by a variety of body types, so adjustments are a necessary evil.
The one thing that has really helped me was the back of vogue patterns. They show which body types would look good in each particular pattern. This how I found out I'm a rectangular. Fit and flair is a no go. I'm quite petit and short waisted. This why I have to make my own. I enjoy your channel.
I wish everyone did this.
I also like my clothes to fit, but sometimes I can be a little too picky with my own makes. I made a top recently and thought the arm hole was not sitting right. Luckily before I took it apart I tried on a 'bought' top I knew fitted well and I was pleasantly surprised that my own effort was good enough. Also confidence it a big deal. My friend put on a lot of weight last year and her glittery xmas top didn't fit and she didn't want to go out. Anyway after a bit of persuading she put on a t-shirt that fitted and zuzzed it up with some sparkly jewellery and hair glitter and she looked amazing and had a great time.
Yes there’s definitely the fear of over fitting. I guess in the end we just have to feel comfortable.
Thanks so much for this video. One thing really hit home and I appreciate that you said it: we look better in a garment that is the right size. What hit home is the “looks better” comment. With the body positivity movement, sometimes it seems taboo to say anything that suggests that as a larger person, I may want to look “smaller/not even bigger than I am/wear something flattering”. I want to wear things that make me look my best, and doesn’t show off things I don’t like. “Normal” size people choose garments and outfits this way, why can’t we? Just because I do this, doesn’t mean I hate my body. I want to look good, whatever that means to me.
Over the years, I have bought many, many (waaaay too many) big 4 patterns, knowing I would have to do major adjustments. I have really hated them, because they were styles that I liked, but the alterations would be way to hard. So, yes, your black shoe / blue shoe analogy is perfect. I do not buy the big 4 any more, even for their crafts. I have bought Cashmerette for many years, and I love them, because they do not treat me like an outcast. I wholeheartedly agree with you on your assessments, and I really feel that it is a huge market that most designers are missing.
Thank you for your comments!
When I was in college, I worked in a fabric store part-time. I often had to convince customers to ignore their ready-to-wear sizes and go with the measurements on the pattern envelopes. I suspect that many couldn’t bear to sew up patterns in the correct sizes and instead made garments that were too small to wear.
Vanity sizing has been the worst thing for consumers mental health.
For me, going with my pattern measurements for woven patterns, I could fit another person in what I’ve made. I measure the pattern itself, and figure the ease, then make it and it fits perfect. That’s 2 sizes less than what my measurements are, Because the tops have 5” ease. I do 2.5” ease instead.
When the big 4 are polling people, maybe they're not taking into account all the plus sized sewists who have dropped out of sewing due to all the tedious upsizing that had to be done.thru the years. I was never a B cup & didnt know how to do a FBA way back but my younger body still fit better into standard patterns, so i just figured it out.
YT has opened a door for me of pattern drafting, upsizing patterns, & other sewing skills that i never learned yrs back. I did a lot of natural "winging it" but it only took me so far.
I'm learning to look up the pattern i want to make to see how it looks on a normal person, especially the plus version which is often not featured on the envelope.
Cheers! Us oddball shaped people rise up!
I absolutely agree that you should wear the colors that you feel good in and if you like stripes then wear stripes. That is a complete myth that women of size should always wear black and as far as I'm concerned it's nonsense. Most women don't look good in Black anyway
Women get told to wear black so they are invisible. Society doesn’t want to see our very real, imperfect bodies. Love this video.
OMG! I am SOOOOOO glad you talked about the baggy styles and very dark coloring for plus sized women. I do like black, but I do not want a completely black wardrobe. Most manufacturers of plus sized clothing only know these colors: black, dark navy, dark grey, and dark brown solids. Plus women couldn't want anything else, right? And a lot of pattern makers only see us in baggy styles, not the slightly over-sized fashion style, but made like a grocery sack. I am done with all of that. I have taken to drafting my own patterns from beloved things that fit me and I love to wear. Sometimes it takes a bit of adjustment, but I get what I like in the colors I want.
I’m a US 4-6 bottom and a 10-12 top due the the girls lol. I have discovered you can’t really look at sizes. I have to buy dresses up and get them altered. It does hit your ego to buy that larger size and you know it’s a number and in other brands you wear something different; and you know nobody sees the tag, etc. but it’s still a mental thing.
I love how you explain things. I’ve decided to venture into sewing for me. It will be a first. I made my daughters’ dresses and I make quilts, but grown up clothing is something foreign. Thank you for having such a wonderful channel!
Oh wow, I wasn't expecting to cry at the last point you made. I honestly crochet more than I sew anymore due to available space in my household and I do the same thing with my yarn the same way I do with my fabrics. I shy away from using any of my pretty things for myself out of fear that I'm just wasting it on my body... but what sense does that make, right?! It was purchased to be used and it deserves to be worn, be it yarn, fabric, makeup, whatever. Thank you for the perspective throughout this whole video, and especially right at the end. You're a wise woman.
My mother taught me if you're heavy, you're heavy, just because you wear black doesn't hide that fact, wear what you want and own it!! You're so refreshing
This hit a chord even though Im a bit late to the party! It occured to me last year that the reason that designers like tall people with little flesh on their bodies is that they are more standard and the clothes are interchangable. The more flesh you have, the more individual your body becomes, often in a delicious way! Great video :)
Thank you, Claire, for the honesty especially about the difference between learning how to sew and learning how to fit.
@Maria Macksoud yes, I found this differentiation was a 💡 for me too.
This reminded me of a question we (professional musicians) often ask each other before performing an unrehearsed song (by request): "Do you KNOW the song, or can you PLAY the song?" 😂😄
I really appreciate that you expressed your opinion about not waiting till you lose the weight to use that gorgeous fabric in your stash. I've been on an incredible journey of making my wardrobe (ready-wear clothes that I like on my body at whatever size I am are so hard to find), but I've also been losing weight! I knew when I started working on my wardrobe that I wanted to lose some weight, so I made sure to plan for alterations in the future, either to make things bigger or smaller because who knows where life will take me. I think it's important to remember that tomorrow isn't guaranteed, wasting time on "when I lose the weight" will only perpetuate the idea that you are not good enough for the garment you want to make and that is NEVER true. We should all appreciate and love out bodies in whatever stage of life or weight. Make the clothes we want and feel confident that we are the best version of ourselves when we do things for "me" not for the random person on the street.
I follow you Claire because you give sound advice about sewing. I like the way you explain fitting adjustments, I actually understand them.
Thank you for posting this lovely video. I have been reviving my sewing skills since last year. I learned when I was very young from my mom and grandmother. I made a goal, actually two but similar, one sew my own clothes, two start a handbag business ... by working on my skills first. I have been making different bags (not up and running yet, still working on skills) I have been making my own clothes and also some for my husband and grandson. I also did some alterations on suits for a friend. That actually gave me more confidence than before! I'm so glad you are here and documenting things that I align with. ❤
When I had my formal sewing training, I had the same measurements of the mannequin, just 2cm+ at the hips! Fast forward after 3 pregnancies and a lot of stress, I’m plus size and honestly I’ll never go back to the mannequin measurements to be realistic. I’m thankful that I learned how to make patterns from scratch and even find confusing using pre-made patterns, because I don’t think I would find a good pattern for my size unless I make it myself.
That's how I feel too. I am currently taking a pattern making class (its very good so far) because I don't like fast fashion they never fit well and are quite ugly for larger people. I have already made myself tops and am excited for the rest!
On your first point, I would buy patterns that looked great on the model, made them and was sorely disappointed when it looked terrible on me. I’m not a plus size but everyone has to consider the body type of the model and if it matches your body. Even plus sizes have body types and I think you can make a regular pattern depending on the style and body type and the fit; fitted, semi-fitted, loose fitting etc also consider neckline and sleeve style and length. I like when they have mix and match patterns where you can choose neckline, sleeve style and lengths. I would go to stores and try on different styles then try to find a pattern for the ones I liked.
I'm not plus size but I still love your channel. You always have great content for any sewer. Ellie and Mac patterns have a great range of testers when you go to purchase a pattern they have tones of pictures you can sift through. And their patterns go up to 5X. One of my favorite things about their patterns is they have adult and kid matching outfits!
I would love to see a roundup of the styles well suited for plus size figures
I'm size XS in Europe but ever since I started making my own clothes I've been using Asian patterns, and often my measurements (mainly shoulder width and torso length) put me comfortable into size L patterns... So pattern-sizing not matching with the preconceived shop-sizing notions apply to regular-sized folks too, all comes down to patterns we use 🙏🙏 Great video, I learned a lot!
Same there. XXS in north ameria. Asian patterns match me better than what is selled there.
Excellent video as always. My issue with RTW is that they assume that we carry our weight everywhere on the body. The sleeve seam always ends up halfway down my arm as I have very narrow shoulders. Thank you again and have a great Holiday Season.
This is so true. Our skeletons stay the same size when we gain weight . People do not usually gain evenly all over the body. Just take legs for example, a lot more weight will accumulate in thighs than in the ankles. legs are still leg-shaped, not cylinders the same thickness all the way down!
Make yourself a set of block patterns, in carboard, then they will be the only patterns you will ever need. From there you have a starting point in making any design you like. Please watch Bianca (The Closet Historian) for how to begin. You won't regret it. and the money you will save on patterns you can buy more fabric! There is nothing like a perfect fit, and if you're buying patterns and having to adjust every single one, why not make a block that you know is going to fit you every time, and the only thing you need to change is the design.
Thank you for speaking the truth on patterns and companies. Drove me crazy for years not finding patterns which fit, many patterns companies seem to think when grading up into larger sizes we grow shoulders the size of football players. Many of the "grading rules" do not take into account how plus size bodies do not expand every direction - it is obvious that the people who follow these rules are not plus sizes and have no idea what plus size people need for a good fit. Plus size patterns are finally getting the message, however I learned to do my own patterns because paying for patterns that did not fit and basically I had to remake the pattern anyway was a waste of time and money. Love your channel with great advice.
I am just entering my 70s and when I was in high school, my sewing teacher (yes, we had sewing classes then) told us the golden rule for looking chic, classy, elegant - wear what you like, what you feel you look good wearing whatever age the clothes came from. I personally fell for and still seek and trying to make, Katheryn Hepburn style slacks, (zipper placket with double front waist darts), silky slightly loose blouses with a keyhole back neck opening, so I can wear scarves, necklaces or brooches; enough of these I mix and match seeming as though I have a large wardrobe. Furthermore, I wear about a 28 or 30 pattern and am praying your instruction (thanks to finding your videos) and advice - and learning all these pattern companies offering my size patterns, will help me in my quest. How I wish I had a teacher in town, or knew where I could find someone to make patterns to fit me! Thank you for your time and wisdom.
great video. I can't say that i will never grade up a pattern. Im so glad that companies are expanding their size ranges. But honestly, these companies are often making the same types of painfully basic garments (how many t shirts and tiered skirts do I really need?) The intermediate patterns that I am craving may be just outside of my size range. My options are to never challenge myself with harder patterns, or grade up Big 4 patterns. 🤷🏽♀
Have you considered making a pattern block based on your measurements and drafting your own patterns?
As a newbie, haven't yet made a garment, sewist, I absolutely loved this video. I'm in a place in my life where I've already started to ignore the numbers... size, weight, inches, what have you... as a measure of worth. I think that's a big reason that sewing has finally started to interest me. I have memories of my mother sewing when I was younger, and the difficulty in finding larger sizes, and I assumed for most of my life that sewing wasn't for me. It seems that my interest has grown at a time where I have many, many more options than I would've found even five years ago. Score one for me on timing. 🙂 Anyway, I love the information and opinions you've expressed in this and other videos, based on your experiences as a larger bodied sewist. It's been a wonderful experience to travel through TH-cam and Instagram in the last couple of months to find people who look more like me and have experienced the world similarly. So, thank you for sharing yourself with all of us.
It seems to me that expecting larger people to learn to do pattern grading is a really good way to expect your entire market-based a potential customers to learn how to not need you
So many great tips. Love when you said "If pattern designers won't invest in me, I won't invest in them!"
I have enjoyed your prowess in sewing and have learned from you even though I started learning in 1948!
Regardless of what my size has been, I have never been able to sew a pattern 'straight out of the packet'. I have always needed to make a toile or two to adjust the pattern to match my proportions. I now have a handful of 'unicorn patterns' that I have adapted to my body and use over and over.
Yeah not everyone sees from the packet. I know quite a few who do though. It’s great you have tnt patterns!
ooh I love the term "unicorn pattern" - I think I found a pair of unicorn pants, but I need to make a few more samples before I am sure. and yeah, no matter my size, I can't wear patterns straight from the package, because i am not built like the models which are often tall and don't have that many curves. I am tiny and super curvy, my bust, shoulders and waist are so different in size; I can only wear oversized or very stretchy garments that I gather at my waist
In my country there seems to be two options for 'plus size' stores - pinup/vintage which is beautiful (but I don't like wearing dresses, particularly to work), and layers and layers of fabric on to of each other that hangs from your shoulders and drags you down. If I'm plus sized already, why would I want to weigh myself down with so much fabric? If you want to look slim or not, simply walking around objects surely becomes dangerous? So I wear jeans and nice tops that just fit me.
The great thing about sewing your own clothes is you aren't chained to the RTW industry. Think about all those ladies who don't know how to create their own beautiful clothing that fits their body. Nothing looks more stunning on a woman than clothing that fits her body in a color that brings out her best features. Thank you , Claire for the encouraging videos. Plus sized sewing is not impossible.
15:49 "YOU DO YOU" love it ❤❤
When I got to be a bigger size in recent years, sewing just became so frustrating because I really didn’t understand how to alter patterns to make them fit me. Vlogs like yours are so very helpful. Thank you. Best regards from Sydney and all good wishes for Xmas and 2022! 🎄
I have naively assumed in the past that I had the skill to make patterns make do, as a quilter I can hide the evidence of that assumption... it is nice that more pattern designers are catching up to the need to make patterns more inclusive. I sew so I can have clothes that not every other plus size person at work is wearing, thankfully TH-cam is a thing so I have been able to improve this for me. Keep your advocacy going - as a plus size sewer I need this too 🤩👍
Just found your channel. WOW! Can't wait to binge watch this weekend!
I’ve sewn for crafting and costumes for my kids, and have always feared making clothes for myself. Partly because of fit issues and partly because stretchy fabrics scare me! It’s been a pleasure getting to watch your videos and you’ve really helped boost my confidence. I hemmed the bottom of a too-long stretchy costume piece I had bought on Amazon and kept thinking back to your videos on knits. God bless you for helping me feel like I can do more than I ever imagined I could have before! I’ve made a few items for my daughter lately that she can wear as everyday clothes, and I’m getting so close to making something for myself now. A few more of these confidence builders and I’m sure I’ll get the gumption!
Oh charity you and me both. I made myself a midi length straight tulle skirt last year and although I was complemented I felt like an elephant. I have several patterns but scared to cut into nice fabric for me. Anything for my children I will do but me… nope.
I’m determined though. I bought a bundle of affordable but nice navy jersey (I’m not scared of stretch) so it’s not an ‘expensive mistake’ and intend to make the cashmerette Turner dress (or at the very least copy a top!!) with it.
I agree , if you feel good in an outfit , your confidence shows and you look amazing .
So true! I recently attended a fancy dress-up function, and was so impressed with the gown a really tall, voluptuous, curvey lady wore - it was a form-fitting stretchy fabric with a swirly design in muted colors that just made the best off her figure, and what really carried it of was her casual, self-confident stroll.
Hi Clare, I'm not a plus size but I'm an odd size, petit extra long big bust short body , I'm just fed up with nothing fitting,
Claire!, This video was awesome. Thank you. It is a real confidence booster. I whole heartedly agree with your "use that special fabric now" philosophy. I had someone tell me once that they could never wear their "special" earrings and asked me if I was afraid of losing mine. I replied that I would rather enjoy wearing them until I lost one instead of leaving them in the box and never getting the chance to enjoy them. I have adopted the same philosophy when it comes to that "special" fabric, enjoy it now!
U r wonderful. I agree w all of it. I'm not plus sized but I have been hard to fit. I've learned to sew but I'm still learning to fit. Jalie patterns uses letters to get past the mental block. Think of all patterns as reference points. Connect the dots and ur size is a "ME" size. No two people r fit exactly the same, even if they start w the same reference points. I want to learn the Fit Nice system. I like the idea that once I map my body, I just adjust for style. Keep up the great work, Claire
I don't know what your first name is, but my friend, you hit the nail on the head when you talked about, it's an emotional Adjustment that people need to make! I say that as a plus size lady, it is very true. Thanks for making this video.
Thank you Claire, for your refreshingly practical views on garment fitting and body image imposed by misogynists (or unrealistic idealists at best). So many of your statements are true for average to slightly less than plus size women as well . . . Ready to wear and pattern companies have been stuck in a rut since Twiggy was a popular model in the 70's. I've had better results shopping in the men and boys section since I was a teenager. Blue jeans were only available in men's sizes when I bought them back then😄 I still buy some items there now . . . Like pants with POCKETS! - shirts with arm and shoulder movement! 🤨
I recently was so pleased to see a display in our local Jo-Ann's Fabrics of voluptuous, curvey women in a wide variety of attire for a pattern company that I'm sorry to say, I can't remember the name of, but I think it was a new designer.
You've inspired me to try garment sewing again after 40 years . . .whenever I get one of my sewing machines working again!
A blessed, happy, and peaceful holiday to your and your family Claire🎄🎁
Clair, I love this video., you are definitely telling the truth about the fashion world. However, you have also caused me to look inward and become more mindful in who i support (buy from) and only buy what I love. Love you Claire, you are truly a inspiration and a bit of a rebel.
Great video! I especially agree that we should only buy patterns that are being offered in our sizes and honor those companies that have chosen to invest in plus size.
Find a company they do patterns for cup A to I think D opened up my fully mind! 😂😂... They are outside there! Look for them! 💞 I'm a little slim person and had problems so often with fit! Now I'm glad to know the right companies! 💞 Thank you for your content! 💞
I'm really enjoying your video. I am a plus size person and have felt so much frustration when looking for patterns that I want to make. I should confess here that I used to be a designer but that was in another life and a very different size!
What you say about having to create a whole new pattern for plus sizes is very true - after all not all of our bodies increase in proportion (I have incredibly slim ankles and wrists). I am pleased by the number of companies who are producing patterns for larger people as, although I know how to adapt patterns I don't enjoy it, especially if I've spent good money on buying it in the first place. So thank you - keep preaching ❤
I’m coming back to garment sewing after 30 years away. I used to see almost all my own clothes but so much has changed, including a body that has gotten even further away from the norm.
I’m so glad I found your channel!
This talk is wonderful. I learned to sew as a “skinny” teenager decades ago. I still love to sew, but have a very different plus/sized body now. Your advice and observations are spot on. I have a basic bodice that I’ve adapted for myself. From there I just play with fabrics I love, and incorporate pleats, smocking, trims, etc. to my hearts content.
Looking really lovely today and the analogy of the blue shoes was genius!
I have an apple body on tooth picks, wide shoulders. I love colours, purple and large florals, you're adorable Claire, thank you for your support and help
I want tell you how nice you look with your hair and makeup that way and the color of your sweater is complimentary to your skin tone . All black is a harsh color for many unless we wear a scarf of our color near our face. You are giving me giving me courage to try fitting. Thank you. P.S. And I like your tree and decorations in the background.
While I’m not plus size and neither are my daughters, that I sew some of their clothing, there are still plenty of adjustments that need to be made. I’m sure the struggles with the patterns are similar in some areas. However, having zero availability close to your size is absolutely challenging as you can lose the shape of the garment by just going two sizes in either direction from the original size. I totally understand your struggle. I primarily use vintage patterns as they are closer to my daughters and my own size and shape. Quite a few of the pattern companies today put out patterns that have too much ease in them, leaving them more boxy in shape when sewn without adjustments. I would suggest that when you find a pattern that works for your shape, make a master pattern from it and use it to make adjustments on other patterns. Also, if you haven’t tried vintage or retro pattern, you should. Average measurements have changed and if you’re hourglass shaped or perfectly shorter in height, you may get a better fit from older patterns.
I'm a curvy size small. I don't know how I got here since I'm definitely not a plus sized person, but some of the tips you have work for me too. I can't wear a lot of things straight from a store because the difference between bust, hips, and waist is just too big. Clothing and pattern companies all think that if you're thin you're built like a stick. But if I buy tops for my bust I look frumpy or bottoms for my hips and it'll fall off. I have a plus sized friend who is built like an amazon and she has the same types of frustrations. Everything made in her size has twice the waist size she needs.
I've never heard so much truth spoken on this subject.
I never understood the idea of paying for a paper pattern and then have to alter it to suit your individual body measurements.
Individual being the operative word here.
Whether you are small medium or a large lady, there isn’t one size that fits all
Which is why I am pitting myself against a difficult challenge of learning the skills involved in creating my own pattern blocks.Sorry to bang on but I feel strongly about this whole issue. A Great video many thanks.
Excellent video Claire. Love it, love it, love it. Thank you.
Ive just found you. Thank you Sooo much for your channel. You inspire us curvy girls to be ourselves. You never said a truer word when you spoke of that gorgeous stash fabric waiting for the smaller us. I've had some for years that comes out admired and then put away. Not for much longer, just spotted the perfect pattern. Thanks again. ❤
Horizontal stripes, Mimi on the Drew Carey show, I loved to see her break all the fashion rules for plus sizes.
I’m not plus sized but really enjoy your channel. I’m short with a large bust. I have to do so many alterations it puts me off and then I have to toile…... I now avoid patterns which don’t offer a fba in my size. It has to be really exceptional for me to consider a woven pattern without an fba option. I can sew but fit is my goal.
I appreciate all this information. Your common sense encourages me. When I returned to sewing a couple of years ago I went and bought a bunch of big 4 patterns. I have yet to make a single one. I would have to do so many adjustments it just isn’t worth it.
So much truth here!
Another thing about pattern grading: there are CAD programs now for grading patterns, at least one of which is freeware. It's entirely possible to enter sets of block sizes into a database and have the graded patterns be generated automatically, ready for printing.
So it's even less of an excuse than it first seems.
Thank you for this video. You are so right on everything. We all need to know this information.
Thank you for a candid and helpful episode about plus size sewing. This was one of my favorites. Merry Christmas!!!
Drives me crazy that the industry seems to think that plus size just means the regular size but bigger. Different styles flatter a larger frame. Proportions are different. They never seem to make the upper arm on patterns or RTW clothes large enough for plus size. Thanks for talking about this!
I am right there about the upper arm measurements! I have always had big arms, even then the rest of me was more “average” size. It’s part of what I love about “flutter sleeves” for instance. Almost no one makes clothing with decently sized sleeves for larger people, and when was the last time you saw an upper bicep measurement in the size tables for RTW? 😂
th-cam.com/video/LsZf6dzoyDE/w-d-xo.html check out this video on how to increase arm girth in a sleeve
This is such wonderful points that even I who sewed many years need to hear again. It is so much easier now with Indie designers who offer a wide size range and cup sizes (yay!)
Spot on with this video! I completely agree with all you have said. I am returning to sewing clothes because I just can’t find clothes that fit well. I have been building my skills back sewing sleepwear. I am happy to say that more and more garments are successfully being worn out in public and it is so nice to not be stuffing myself into ill fitting clothes. I am in the grey area that is XL, but not plus size, and I am such a pear shape that sizes for tops and bottoms are dramatically different. Dresses and such must be graded out at the hips and the waist lengthened. It is an adventure in sizing with every pattern! Happy holidays to all!
Your channel gives me realistic advice. I love to sew but fitting myself has always been a problem for me.
I guess that in a way you are right about how there are certain clothing that people of different sizes and weights can get away with wearing. Like a flat chested person can wear a skimpy backless top without any bra, but there is no way someone who has any real boob can get away with some of those tops and there are clothing that looks better on certain body shapes. I remember trying on some coats this past year and the way they were cut, or had flaps in certain areas did not look very flattering on me. But a lot of the clothing that the designers are refusing to size up are stuff that can be sized up and these designers are well known to be fat phobic.
I would love for there to be an honest and easy tutorial on how to upgrade patterns. I have labored over how to do it on my own and have been searching for a proper tutorial for near fifteen years and have yet to find one. If you know where there is one please point me in it's direction. I am at the point that I have given up on patterns and am starting to design my own. I am tired of being a size or two bigger than the largest size available in a pattern, or trying to size up a really old pattern that is only one size and is many many sizes too small for me.
i also have been wanting to grade up patterns. i am usually 1 to 2 sizes outside of the range of big 4 patterns. i researched the pivot and slide method by nancy zieman here on youtube. she has an easy system for grading up patterns. it looks so simple i couldnt believe it worked! i highly recommend. there are youtube videos if you are interested. i also believe she has a book. good luck!
Love this video! Thanks for the information your giving us. I'm glad I found your channel.
I really loved this video. I had an eating disorder for sixteen years after listening for some of these types of false ideas that really just make you feel bad about yourself. Sure I'm bigger now but I am so much happier. I wouldn't go back to trying to be certain size again, because doing so nearly killed me. Thank you so much :)
I can relate a little bit. Quite some time ago I lost 100lbs in 7 months but I did it by starving myself and over exercising. But it went back on. I’d never go back to that it was so unhealthy
Thank you. Sometimes i want to give up on sewing. 🎄🎅❤
Yes it’s not easy is it. ❤️
Thank you for the excellent video and your good advice. Have a wonderful Christmas and a healthy, happy New Year. 💕
No one (or very very few) people will fit a pattern right out of the envelope. Not even slim people. There will always be alterations to be made, and I think home dressmakers need to understand that the pattern is only the starting point, and adjust their expectations. I agree there is a market for plus-sized patterns, but you will ALWAYS still have to make adjustments. Not all plus-sized people are the same shape. Eg: I have a larger top half (G and F cup), no waist, flat bum, narrow hips, short waist, long long legs. Add to that age, with a forward head and round upper back. I have invested my fitting journey in my upper half for tailored jackets and blouses, it took a few years but they are perfect now. Some simple starting points: choose the pattern by your high bust point (so it fits your neck, shoulders, armscyes and back - the most difficult ones to adjust). Don't pick a size by your full bust, it is much harder to adjust neck, shoulders etc. Also always make a toile (test pattern), and the final garment will be much more accurate.
Really great point. I didn’t think of this. You are right on point. Thanks
Thank you for talking abt this! I gave up on using commercial patterns or buying ready to wear clothing because in both cases the fit is just not there. I am now working on making my own sets of basic pattern slopers so that I can have clothes that fit, and I sometimes get super upset seeing how much work goes into this, even following a guide to make your own pattern based off your measurements, it simply doesn't take into account the complexity of non-thin bodies, and so few of said thin people have to care. They can just take a pattern and make a garment easy maybe just make a very small adjustment here and there but they can sew SO much more as a result. Recently there's a youtube trend of showing off your 2021 sewing creations and each time one of those videos pops up I wanna cry, because it's just super unfair. How for them it's just about the sewing, so they can master sewing skills, and progress super fast while for us non thin people it's not only about the sewing there is a patternmaking hassle in the back to deal with, that makes the process much MUCH longer. We have to make a couple muslins, we can't use the free trendy beautiful patterns going around, there's a massive block in our own sewing process. And I say that, while just being mid size, it's just I have a big bust, and big hips and a rounded back and thick shoulders and a bloated belly due to chronic illness and it's impossible to find my size, because even a size 12/14 that should be my size, doesn't take into account my body shape. And it's really really frustrating to not have the same opportunities of progress as everyone else just because only one body shape is praised and taken into account. I hope I can finish all my slopers this year so I can be able to do more things later on, that fit, but right now I just feel stuck in between and I really miss sewing.
I don’t really frequent instagram, but I will from now on. Excellent advice, thankyou. I always use the pattern sizes as ‘just’ a number, the difference between shop sizes and pattern sizes can be staggering.
Thank you so much for sharing your views! Spot on! As an early sewist, I initially felt bad about myself regarding the pattern sizes I actually needed for fit. And even when purchasing plus size patterns, its crazy how much I have to adjust the patterns to fit my particular body shape. But you know, I find that my clothes fit so much better than ready to wear!
You are so beautiful and this made me feel so empowered!!! Thank you so much!!
I love this channel: Come for the sewing tutorials and tips, stay for the self-affirming philosophy!
Very helpful Claire . This resonated very much with me . I too have lost my sewing mojo and I am waiting for it to return . Maybe 2022 is the year for it to return .
Very well spoken and spirited delivery…..needs to be understood and accepted!
I love your honesty about things. Loving your videos.
Just found you! What a gift!!! Trying to teach three young friends to sew. They all are plus size. I am diving into a learning curve. My own sewing means a FBA and shortening the waist and sleeves, usually. I grade between 3 sizes but my hips are only 42.5”. I need lessons like yours!!! Thanks.
Wonderful video!!! Enjoyed all your comments and truths !!! You look great !!! Have a happy new year !!!
True, true, true, all true! I am currently fairly slim, but I have been bigger and I have been smaller, and as I’ve gotten older I’ve discovered that I have to make more adjustments than ever to get a good fit, regardless of my size. Unless a person is exactly the size and shape of a fit model, we will all likely have to make adjustments to any pattern to get a good fit. Even when I was model thin, I still had to adjust for my long legs and absent bum! My sewing friends and I have found that fitting becomes a bit easier if we find an indie designer whose sizing more closely approximates our individual body shape. Adjustments are still necessary, but you have a better starting point. It was not so easy when all that was available were the “big four” patterns. It’s very frustrating when you realize that a pattern that has been graded up to larger sizes has just been made bigger everywhere. That is NOT how the human body changes as we get larger! As we gain weight, the “padding” goes to the areas where we naturally have more fat cells. An apple or pear shaped figure is much less obvious when it is skinny, but those areas that make one an apple or a pear are the areas that get bigger in disproportionate measures as we gain weight. A pattern simply made larger all over will not fit properly; it will likely sag off the body in some areas while still being too tight in others. In my case, those larger sizes would fit my bust and waist, but droop off of my shoulders, which just never flatters.
Thank you for this. ❤️
I made the same mistake when i started sewing again after many years, i automatically bought patterns the size i was in ready to wear ,then realised i needed bigger size in sewing patterns, Imam learning how to adjust patterns to fit my shape.Thank you Clair for a excellent vidio.xxx
Love your honesty and that you have been there done it and your so encouraging! I also love to hear you speak. I'm in the US as a kid I knew one person from the UK and loved to hear my mom's BFF partner's British accent. It's great!
My most favourite segment to date. Claire, it’s too bad you have lost your sewing mojo. Sewing has done so much for you (in a great way!). I have been watching some of your earlier videos. Thanks for being you 🇨🇦❤️
The advice you give for body image is really true, wether you sew or not. Really enjoy your channel