Plus Size Fashion Construction: 5 DOS and 1 DON'T
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2023
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There are construction considerations that are important to note across the board but there are distinctly some that are specifically important for plus and midsize clothes. Here are 5 things to keep in mind when developing clothes are larger sizes and 1 thing to not do!
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I would add: please don't assume that knit fabric removes the need for actual shaping when dealing with areas that need shaping (hips, bust, thighs, biceps, whatever). Tubes of knit fabric do have more give, but they don't change the need to shape those tubes to match the shape being designed for.
Absolutely
a series would be lovely!! yes please, looking forward to it xx
Coming soon!
Would love a series!!! This video was very helpful.
Awesome! Thank you!
I'd also like a series!
I love this video. I’m at fashion school in Australia and recently had to do an assignment for pattern grading for yourself. The college only provides standard blocks but nothing in plus size. It was a rather confronting assignment but the teacher failed to take into account my different body shape compared the standard body. I had to grade from size 18 to size 28 and the assignment was a fiasco. It resulted in me being so upset I was reduced to tears. At the same time I’m trying to work on a line for plus size women because shopping as a plus size is a B***H. Please do a few more video’s on plus size. My confidence has been shattered and would love any advice possible.
I'm so sorry your confidence took a hit, but I'm sure you're doing great! I hope you have a stubborn streak and decide this isn't going to beat you! I also hope that your teacher gave you support and help.
Good luck with your clothing line.
Grading a jump like that is very difficult and your teacher set you up to fail. Do not feel bad. It was not your fault.
Oh lord, even very experienced pattermakers have trouble doing above 18, and you as a student was expected to nail it on first try? I've had blank stares from professional businesses when I asked about grading for my patterns (admittedly, very difficult as is, as they are historically inspired) for plus sizes. You can't get commercial patterns above..20, and that's a vintage ,20, so more like current 14, so where were you supposed to borrow from? There's scarcely any good books about sewing plus size stuff,are there?
Because I'm so thin, some commercial patternmakers felt at ease saying some absolutely vile, uncalled for shit about plus size women and their bodies and levels of taste, stuff I'm not even willing to think out loud. In a perfect world people's wouldn't struggle with their weight, health and body image but this isn't a perfect world. The hostility is just unnecessary and unhelpful. Im not in business of making people feel shitty, I want to make women I dress feel powerful and beautiful and getting that sort of comments sucks, even if I'm not the person they were supposed to deride.
Gunnar Deatherage's patterns on his patreon come at least to size 24, if I remember correctly, maybe he'd be able to advise you?
Good luck,I hope you have pulled through without getting discouraged by an unhelpful teacher. Some people in the industry are just...vile and seem to revel in inducing panic, shame and feelings of inadequacy in others. Don't let them kill your shine.
Zoe! This channel is an absolute treasure trove of information. I am a fashion design student and your videos are an amazing resource for all things design. I recommend your channel to every one of my design peers, no matter their area of concentration. No one else on TH-cam offers such a breadth of knowledge on everything from principles of design, color theory, sketch/illustration, patterns, ideation, etc. You are like a professor to me!
You are so kind! Thank you!
Hi Zoe yes I would love to more about pattern making for plus size
Thank you so much for this!! A series would be awesome. I need to know everything.
You're so welcome!
Please do more tips, this was perfect 😍
Thank you! Will do!
It is so true Zoe Hong there is a vast market of Petite fuller bodies women out there and fit is so important. Probably the biggest issue in the mass production sector is that it seems as they are just using one standard body type when there are few more like the bigger middle with narrow hips and vice versa. I am aware that for certain bodies alterations are key in order for the clothes to lay better on but overall the patterns as well as the grading need to step up. Thank you for all the great content you make for us all to learn and enjoy from!
Plus or curvy petite here, thanking you for the shout-out. Would love to learn more about designers catering to curvy petite bodies.
This was super helpful! I never considered adding more darts of you need it (because it not taught that way), but, yeah, why not if you get a better fit.
Please, please continue a plus size series. While I'm not plus-sized, I am short, chubby, and large-busted. In order to get proper fit, I'm now making my own clothes, so suggestions like "widen the straps, tie them for adustment and support" are pure gold!
Would love a series here! I design a lot of plus in swim and lingerie and would like to learn more about it related to apparel patterns.
ABSOLUTELY agree on the height grading!
Thanks learned a lot, been sewing for over forty years. These reminders helped round things out
I love the sunbursrt dart idea!
Use it!
A series ?
Yes.
Because you can never know too much about any particular subject.
Especially if it may be a hidden one.
Very informative as I have an women's apparel website. I like "generous" size lady term the best!
This would be great as we well maternity clothing
Yesssss - A Series plz!!!!!
Would love a series!!
Hey hey party person, more please, and a photo of sunburst back waist darts, and a big thank you on the wider waitsbands with interfacing ,and sturdy elastic casings within the casings!!❤
And, let's bring back the half sizes, am I right?
This is so helpful!! More please 🙏 ❤
I’m not plus-size, but I do have large boobs that do not fit my frame, even after having a breast reduction when I was 18 (after surgery I was a 32D and am now in a 32DDD/32F). Large clothing manufacturers 100% do not take big boobs into consideration, ever! That’s why I’m interested in making my own clothes. So glad to hear tips for it in this, and definitely would prefer a wider strap. I won’t buy anything that doesn’t have some form of support 😅
Your videos are really inspiring, thank you!!
You are so welcome!
Love your knowledge, thanks for sharing, I always find it confident boosting.
You are so welcome!
Great video. About time someone started designers thinking about designing for a diverse range of body shapes.
Yes please, a series would be fantastic :) Thank you so much for this video, very helpful!
You're welcome!
Great tips Yes more !
More to come!
Series yes, please
Thanks Zoe! Great tips! I'm a Canadian fashion student (plus-size myself) & I'm in my final year and developing my final capsule collection specifically for extended size (with US size 22 as my base size, for now). There are like NO 'official' resources, like textbooks or independent online courses that I can turn to specifically for extended size pattern making. So any advice, like this, is a huge help! My program recently got licenses for CLO 3D, with a plus-size avatar & a couple size 22 dress forms which my proff has been developing basic blocks for; which is a great start. But mannnn, it's still been a lot of trial and error that my classmates doing 'straight sizes' don't have to worry about! It's totally worthwhile though.
Yes please!!!
Must have series about construction plus size clothes!!! We don’t have any in university!
Cutting patterns and taking notes. #HappySundayVibes
Happy Sunday!
I would like more plus size!!!!
Thank you, I agree with everything you say, especially the last point about length….I like the patterns from a company that draft for ladies 5’ 5”…I am 5’ 8”, yet the shoulder to waist fits perfectly, my height is in my legs…lucky me, not always as it’s a pain to get a straight hem when you’re on your own 😂😂😂…yes more please 👍👍
I really liked this video, I would love for you to make more videos that explain about designing for a private client 🙏🥰😁💯
Thanks 🙏😊😊😊
I do alterations and these days a lot of clothes don't have any darts. especially the plus size stuff. I'm always putting darts in stuff for people
Right now I make my living altering clothes while learning design. The whole plus size taller for real. I just had a plus size woman come in and I had to cut all her pants off by 6" some flared, thank goodness she didn't care about the flare. Sleeves as well, I see a lot of tops with sleeves way to long. But that said this video also gave me ideas with some fitting issues I am having with my own plus size. Extra darts, never thought about that, and would solve my fitting issues. Where I was taught to just work with the back seam and side seams, not working for my shape, extra darts, yes. Thank you for the idea. (Most of my fitting issues are pants and skirts.)
Very specific here: Please if one designer here comes up with a denim pant (none stretchy) that accommodates big quads, big butts & small waist, please please please let me know 😭
Yes, yes, yes !!! & Please, please, please !!! I’m a male that’s in the Big & Tall category, there is only one place that I go to, “DXL” retail stores and I found a very well made brand that fits me = Psycho Bunny, I usually make adjustments if the garment is too small or too large. Love u Zoe !!! Hey-hey party people !!!
Hey hey party person!
LOVE IT!!! More information about Full Figure Sizing. Keep up the good work and have a wonderful day 😊 Robin N.Otis-Clayborne
Thank you! You too!
Hi! Im a 20 year old girl and I've never been an S girl. I live in Turkey and I hate all the time when I buy L,XL clothes they always be so much tall and I'm sick of it.
I would like to hear how to deal with very large arms out of proportion to top
Do you still have your previous classes on patreon? Or is it just one at a time?
Yes, all older classes are still up.
Narrow waistbands are the worst! I hope all designers hear you on that one
The worst!
Hi Zoe! Thank you for this video! Yes, I do want more information about "Plus Size" Fashion.
And I have a question, ¿It's true that because reasons like weight distribution and the fact that height and width are independent on bodies, from a size (think that XXL) it's not possible to scale the pattern anymore and it has to be redrawn at the next size to scaling from then on? Thank you again Zoe!
Ooo yes good question here! Thought on this please? Thank you so much Zoe ❤
It's simply not very cost efficient to do product development for every single size so companies won't do it. And I don't think it's even necessary. It is recommended to create a complete size set of samples and fit them to correct the grade anytime you create a new silhouette.
@@zoehongteaches Got it! Thank you Zoe!
I like fashion desinger but I don't have enough money what is the best way to learn this course please I interested some one tell
Think Meg Ryan in that restaurant in “When Harry Met Sally” when I say: YES! YES, YES, YES!!!
I’ve been saying these things for quite some time, just not nearly as well as you did, beginning right up front with “Plus.” 🤬 I absolutely HATE it, and I’m not even a “Plus” size. It’s demeaning. Any special name for a category of sizes that deviates from straight sizing, no matter how acceptable it may or may not sound in the beginning, will eventually take on negative connotations because it segregates a whole group of humans, automatically making them feel bad, even abnormal. 😡
Also, I have heard skinny women (for example) describe themselves as “very pear shaped,” but at their small size, while “very pear shaped” may be technically accurate, that fact presents very few/small issues with fitting. In my own case, I had (mostly) a runway model figure for all of my younger years - very tall, skinny everywhere. The fact that I had a very small hip-to-waist ratio, and had much larger boobs than I had a right to, based on how thin I was, were issues that were barely noticeable, if at all. Now that I’m older and heavier, even though I still look narrow and still have slender arms and legs, that hip-to-waist ratio and those boobs are out of f🤬ing control! Same body type, but where I gain weight has revealed the fit issues in much more obvious and challenging ways.
Thank you sooooo much for this. This will be added to the list of your videos that I recommend to other sewing enthusiasts. So good! ❤️
Thank you for sharing your story! (And I snorted at the Meg Ryan ref hahhahaha~) The fashion industry doesn't like to dress anyone other than the most basic template of bodies and it's so aggravating!
Waistline will shift as you gain weight. CF dips and CB hikes up.
Yes. I hate that! Have gone to wearing dresses rather than skirts for that reason. Sad since there are so many cute skirts and they are so versatile.
Also, ti***** be ti******! 😂😂😂
They do though! hahahaha~
I hear non stop complaining about fashion not being inclusive, but there is no magic for us size 1, 5 foot nothing, petite in every way, and there is zero fast fashion that fits me. I sew for obvious reasons. If I don't, nothing fits. There is literally 1 pattern company for skinny chicks and it's call skinny bitch curvy chick. And it's getting old being that skinny bitch. There's nothing for us. And when it gets jumpstarted, it always gets shot down to be inclusive. Whatever I design, I guess it will be niche because I won't bow down, there's plenty of resources out there. Skinny girls need different fitting tubes too...
Thoughts on making your content gender neutral and AFABs, etc... bc non binary plus size folks also have various bodies.