I only just came across this channel, but from what I've seen it seems like the most sensible balance between those "this company built my dream van for $100,000!!" type channels, and the "we're hipsters with no experience or skills who built our entire interior out of shipping pallets" types. These videos make me think I could actually build something I could afford and be satisfied with
Yeah! You totally can without experience. Step 1: Buy Van Step 2: Build floor by watching a floor videos on TH-cam and taking the best of the best ideas away and just copy. Step 3: repeat step 2 for the rest of the build.
Great information. Well done. Couple of observations. Primer is cheaper and faster if you buy a quart and just roll / brush it on. Also, people seem to worry about “rust” and do lots of rustproofing. You should be just as concerned about mold and/or mildew in all that untreated wood. Every piece of wood in your van should be sealed or primed to prevent water absorption and mold/mildew. Any “joints” in your subfloor are going to eventually “telegraph” in your vinyl. Joints should be filled (I use Rock Hard Water Putty from Ace Hardware) and then sanded smooth. To “roll” the vinyl, use a 2 ft length of 2 x 4 (with a factory rounded edge) wrapped in a piece of thin cloth to “squeegee” the air out and adhere the flooring. You MUST use enough pressure to collapse the ridges of adhesive created by the trowel if you want good adhesion.
I have watched countless videos on insulating the subfloor, and THANK GOD I found yours before I committed because I am tall and your video is Heaven sent! That glue gun technique I've never seen done before (looks a bit tedious with the glue sticks) but I am trusting you 100%!!! Thank you!
Honestly, I've watched so many vids on everyone's various insulation methods, (I've started dreaming of the Pink Panther herding sheep...) but, your method for the transit build is the first I've seen that is helping me to decide on my foundation floor design. I bought my van recently (2010 Sprinter 170WB) and I am waiting for materials to arrive - and weather to improve (it is cold as Fu*k here). Glad I found your channel and Thank you for the entertaining content! :)
Sidestep seems like the most intimidating part of an install, would love to see it. Have seen people use baking rollers/pins for vinyl install in small areas.
I've been in professional van building sites and watched them work. Most cut corners for duplication of many vans. Doing a custom build for everyone does not work for them, they lose money due to time spent figuring out new layouts of what the customer wants. Independent van builders like me can always put out better work given we have the skills to do so. A full custom build like mine is about 10 to 20 times more work than a pro van builders van. They follow templates and have measurements match in similar vans. I measure each and every part carefully while taking full days to brainstorm each part throughout the build process. My build takes way longer of course. Theirs can take days and be a decent work. Mine will last rough wear and tear over at least 5 years. My first van build is still going strong, nothing inside has malfunctioned to any major extent even with the new owner. She still gives me updates on where she is and what's going on. Last I heard, one of the switches broke for electrical, but they were easy to replace.
Thank you for all the details. May eye request a very simple video no one seems to share? Eye'd like a video on making the card board and tape templates? The weirder the shape the better.. Thanks a plenty.
Thank you! So much progress has been made in just the last month too! Got kitchen, TV, Bed,Table, desktop computer, and more coming soon! About to go on a trip to Florida once again!
@travelinman482 i do not believe so, there are no bumps from air pockets in the floor, they were pushed out pretty well. There are some bumps though, this is due to the plywood not sitting completely flat due to the actual metal floor being slightly uneven to begin with. It's not very noticeable at all anymore since all the furniture keeps down the floor from above. I get I didn't follow all the best practices, but it's a damn good floor still! Good knock to it while cutting out engine and road noise from below. Everything considered, I would only do one thing differently if I was to do it again. I would overlap the xps board and the plywood, not have them flush. This would have fixed all minor bumps. It was a thought while building, but I decided not to and stick to the easier templates made so everything was the same shape.
I know I'm a little late to this video, but it was amazing to watch! Thanks for the informational video as well as the great content. Have a great day, Ryan!
5:23 .. This is SUPPER funny, but not sure exactly why :) I used to subcontract doing flooring for my nieghbour .. Who was a flooring expert, and YES everything gets 5 kinds of glue on it. especially the van floor!! L0L !!! :)
10:33 I have been researching all this "van build" stuff for a week or so .. Planning to start my van build soon!! .. I was surprised to learn early on that both Gorla all purpose glue and Gorilla wood glue adhere well to styrofoam and do not "melt" it like many other glues do!! :)
I see a lot of vanlifers complain about bugs and rats, does this help, just the floor? Are there ways to do up other areas of the van for that? I'm puzzled because regulars don't have to worry about bugs or rats that much it seems.
So never had any problems with either in my first van for 4 years. But for bed bugs I did sprinkle tons of diatomaceous earth behind all the wood work. This also kills spiders and other bugs that get in. Good idea, not harmful to us. Rats I'm not sure of, never had an issue myself yet
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks a lot for replying! Forgot to ask if you've been in areas where there are normally a lot of bugs? I know some places just naturally don't have a lot. Just want to confirm with your build you were able to keep pretty bug-free even in buggy areas, and not that it's just your area is pretty bug free haha. Sorry I'm new and haven't been following so don't know where you normally go :)
ok not sure if your video is regional... heat does come from the roof down, but cold comes from the floor up! And if you're anywhere out of the American southern states, cold becomes a concern. Here around Lake Ontario, it's -40C to +40C depending on the time of year!!!
Great video and thank you for sharing! One question, do you think filling in the floor valleys restricts airflow? And is that airflow helpful/necessary? I assume it is to support the XPS evenly but are the flat peaks not already enough?
This is a great question! So no air flow is needed below the floor, but I still would not completely block off all openings, just in case it does get humid below. It should be able to evaporate. The ribs themselves are perhaps plenty enough for the XPS board. I would personally trust just the ribs for the xps, even over time, but I still wouldn't build it this way for myself.
I am considering the same, as the airflow would seem to help with with condensation. The XPS used can support 25 lbs. per square inch, estimating the cargo area of about 70 sq. feet and approximating half that is raised surface, that is about 5000 square inches, which could support 125,000 lbs. Considering that the plywood would spread out any weight direct applied from above, the valleys between the raised areas would never get direct the full weight. Still reseachng.
What is your opinion on aluminum framed grid as a subfloor? I saw a video with a guy installing it - his concerns were that aluminum withstands condensation and because of that rust better than wood.
Thanks guys! I'll be doing tons of work on it these next two months. Oh btw, I believe I'm leaving for Florida on Jan 1st. I pushed the date back cause all the trips I was taking were holding back my build haha. Now I'm just building and videoing everything. The LOGO will be used a ton more soon! I'll be putting it on shirts, but I want to get OE logo done first with just the text so it can go under the shark on the shirt
@@livingthedash6727 OE = Outdoors Embrace I want a logo with just text I'll be spending NYE with my family and the day after be headed down most likely. I'm actually trying to leave sooner, but so much of the van can be done now so I'm exited to stay and keep working.
So my 2 cents As a person that been in Autobody for 30+ years #1 When prepping a metal floor/wall etc Remove all the item on the floor which was done..However you then want to scuff the rest of the paint around the exposed metal for it to stick to Wipe the area with a grease/oil remover. Take note : Primer is not a paint. Primer is a chemical that is a adhesive that bonds to metal as it dries And is porus And promotes paint to fill in the micro holes it has And lay flat And seals from outside moisture ....Without actual paint as a sealer In time that primer becomes weaker every time moisture is introduced Causing rust. You would be better off to forgo the primer And just use rust paint..In the auto primer world there is Welding primer, Filler primer primers color correct primers All of them need a sealer. #2 Car sheet metal is about 0.5mm thick Compared to a home that has 4 inch bricks And wood behind that Or 6 inches of concrete as a basement. Bricks have a low thermal conductivity, Where metal has a high thermal conductivity And transfer So ANY where you see metal exposed is a focal point where heat/cold transfer. Think of it like a frying pan You go to grab it And burn your hand on the handle (we all have done it) So YES! you want that insulation from the pan to your hand...And rubber is a fantastic insulator Think of it like the primer from the #1 comment. It has dense non-conductive pores You can use adhesives to it. It is flexible, Waterproof, And takes many years to become brittle And worn out. So in a Van / RV where you have angles And protruding humps And framing why would you leave that exposed? And go over it with framing wood (Furring strips) ? Wood absorbs Hot/cold opening And closing its pours Which then fill with moisture rotting And molding (This is why there is building codes preventing Wood into the ground And into concrete without a barrier normally made of rubber) I find rubber mat is good for middle paneling (sound deadening) But you want yourself about min 6 cans of rubberized spray for all the framing parts Inside and out And you want min 1/2' of rubber Let it dry And fill (not JAM) the framing with insulation to prevent air movement ...I went a step further And done a light coat on the side i was using my wood furring strip the day before install. You will want to spray the rear doors aswell Do not fill them with wool Or fiberglass explained in #3 #3 Thru out the whole van/car/truck where do most people see rust on a Vehicle? The bottom. This is because when it rains all that dirt people drive thru washes downwards stopping inside of plastic trims Behind door panels And gets trapped inside the bottom of doors And rocker panels Bottom of wheel arches etc It then forms into mud..Mud takes much longer to dry out than normal water making paint over the years soft And once a opening is made the mud sits between the paint And the metal - rust.......I say all that for this At the bottom of your panels you have weeping holes for water to escape. Doors, Rocker panels In rain while driving Water does now And then spray inside the holes The rockers do get wet ..No big deal But if you fill them with anything Its like the mud i mentioned So like this shot @7:17 You can do what i done. I sprayed my rubber inside that square hole Avoiding the weeping holes (taped them) Added a L shaped plastic cardboard piece i cut (Dollar store item) capping off that edge of the metal lip And used Closed cell BASF Walltite spray foam inside which was a single light pass that did fill inside but did not press against the panel And frame On the interior i sprayed 2.5 inches level with the furring strips (Foam cutter blade for sawall) 1- inch of this foam is about 6.5 avg Thru out the van with the rubber, The thermo padded window covers I would not say my build is the "Best" But i seen alot of other vans with exposed metal And improper/waste of products And compared side by side Its like having the heater on with windows half way down in the middle of a blizzard. Other tips...if you run spray foam Put all your wiring in mini pvc tubing say ether 4 or 5 in one Or use it all in a larger tube Then spray over it ..This way you can add And remove wires without having to dig out the foam to get to them just fish them thru
Could you clarify something for me? When you put the strips of plywood on the deadener strips, was the plywood actually higher than the peaks of the ridges, creating a little gap above them with the foam, or was it flat across the plywood and the peaks?
Hello, that aluminum tape does not break any thermal bridge. It will only interrupt air leakage (with possible high humidity). Aluminum is a perfect thermal conductor and that means it forms thermal bridges ;-)
Are you worried about the 1 inch XPS foam caving under the pressure of cabinets and other heavy objects over time? I heard this concern a lot online among those who use insulation in the floor?
No, it's designed to be put under concrete. It doesn't cave in like that. You could look at mine under the floor in 5 years and it would look the same.
Very detailed instruction thanks so much. 1 quick question, does the foam strong enough to withstand the weight from all the cabinets, batteries, water tank, benches, beds, and daily walk around without compressing?
It's great. Everything on top of the floor also holds everything down well. It's not something I was worried about too much and still doing great. Floor has a solid feel to it!
Yes, I don't recommend any coating on wood below the bed, or furing strips for floor. My first van had no issues and the floor was basically done the same.
did you consider integrating supporting beams in between the xps insulation to avoid height differences from walking over time? Or would the plywood be thick enough to avoid that?
I knew the furniture above would keep the floor down over time. No isses. I wouldn't do anything differently in this case (especially not put beams across the floor like you mentioned, which would introduce thermal bridges). My entire build has almost no direct thermal bridges, insulation was always the most important thing. The only thing I might do differently next time or if I was to do this over would be to overlay the xps and the plywood in different spots, and not be the same shape. This would negate all bumps completely through the entire floor.
Moreover, XPS is below grade material and has a compression strength of 25 psi, which is great to be honest. His quarter inch thick plywood should be fine overtime. Just as long as his girlfriend is not jumping up and down in high heels on her heels in one spot every day of his life. Lol😅
What about using a miter saw extension roller? It’s made of galvanized steel, is lighter and cheaper (10lbs/$30) than a standard vinyl roller (70lbs/$270+) and prob better than a kitchen pastry roller! 😊
Is not the stock Step slip proof? So when changed it to a beautiful wood piece. Is there not a greater risk of slipping? I want to change out mine but had people tell me that. How did it work out for you? Do you live near water with your Van? As I do.
The stock is a little more slip proof, but the wood version isn't slippery at all. Odd thing for them to think or complain about. Make your van the way YOU want it. There is nothing wrong with the side step change.
Absolutely correct! I should have spoken about this in the video. But insulation is also the #1 most important part of a build, determining the comfort level of living more than any other improvement you can do. Mine does allow air to flow since their are gaps between each part of the floor. Might not be easily seen in video, but I've looked beneath the floor since and it's dry.
Are there any links or ref where I can get this exact quality work done in Texas 🤔 No way do I hv this skill or used the tools. I can be in and between these citys. Dallas, Ftw, Denton, Austin, Pflugerville, Roundrock. Thanks, great work and video!
Yes to sidestep! Thank you for sharing all your great wisdom. It looks great! Was the Green Guard eco-friendly (I am chemical sensitive so looking for green materials)? Well done!!!
Just wondering, how are young to install that bathroom/shower/cabinet door hung with the floor already there? Will there be a drain or just something above floor level routed another way?
I will cut a drain. We wanted the floor to be insulated all the way, so we decided to put the floor everywhere. The tub/tray of the shower system will go above and be fine
Ooo, so if i had to remember for all the materials I used personally, I would say it cost in total around $300 to $400. This includes all parts of my floor Install total.
It's doing great! I looked beneath floor recently and it's dry. The slots between the wood I put down there act as airway for moisture to dissipate. Floor looks just as when built
Yo Ryan, one thing I always wondered is if lots of insulation works the same as sound-deadening. If you insulate the crap out of your van, do you think it's necessary to use sound-deadening underneath? I suppose that sound-deadening the wheel wells would be the best place to use it, as well as the flat wall panels of the thin van metal walls. What are your thoughts?
So I used the sound deadening also as a space filler between the floor ribs in this one. I think, in the end of the floor build, that it does something to stop any knocking sounds from below, but vastly the insulation makes the most difference in sound overall. I do recommend sound deadening over the ceiling mostly, for rain sound deadening. If you heavily insulate, it makes it ever so less important for sound deadening, unless you plan on putting some heavy subwoofer in the build which could rattle the metal... which was my main concern.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks man. Yeah, I think when I do my van, I will probably put 1/2 inch insulation in the grooves underneath the 1inch main foam insulation for the floor. I will probably do 1 1/2 inch foam for the floor since I want it to be 4 season.
Hey, I’m installing my van’s floor as we speak and I’m pretty much following this guide step by step😂 nice vid bro! any chance we could get an updated discord link? Also is there an electrical setup video for Megalodon coming up or did I miss that one?
There is an updated electronic video coming soon! That one will be so full of info! The discord never took off and they keep switching the links so don't think it's a good way to spread the channel actually. I thought it would work well, but no. I'm here if you need me though! By the way, what's the biggest question you have about electrical and I'll include the answer in the video.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Nice!! Can’t wait for that one bro! Yeah I fully get that, Discord is annoying with that link policy for sure. The biggest question I have about the electrical is do you configure it before or after the insulation and wall installs?
@brendominus ok, that I'd a great question to answer in the video! I've heard others ask that question before and I've had a similar question myself when starting 6 years ago. I would say it depends, but to me it's best overall to install insulation first so you can still have access to the electrical wires if they need to be fixed. Certain large wires might be OK to be permanently fixed in the wall though, if you know they are just runner wires and will never need to be touched.
When condensation gets under the floor it will rot all those plywood fillers. You need air space below floor to dry out the moisture. Watch any videos of floor removal after over 18 months of full time in van and you will realize this.
I have checked under my floors since. They are looking just like they were day 1. The reason being is that there is an air space, like you said. Air can flow freely below, as seen in video, not every single gap was filled, just enough to level it.
...never try to cut thru 1 in of foam with one cut ...always trace the line then come back thru again and yet again .,..three times is usual ...yea I used to work in a prototype design studio ...sooo
Why the need to sound deaden the flloor. You wont be in it when driving so when go to such lengths. Wouldnt it make more sense to beef uf the roof with insulation instead
great result! But why add so much sound deadening material to the floor? Wouldn't it suffice to just fill in the larger panels? This way you add a lot of weight and it may not do much? At least that's what I got from another video (where someone also said "you're all doing it wrong" 🙂) Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/vSTRHSDfk28/w-d-xo.html
At this point, I agree. The sound deadening was minimal for the floor, although it did work well on the walls. The XPS board deadens the sound just fine, mostly negating the need for sound deadening layer. It still does do something though, but the extra weight might not be worth it like you said.
Debating vinyl roll out vs planking bc I could see dragging something across the floor and ripping, gouging, cutting, or scrathing the roll out. And then also having to replace a section isn't possible with roll out. 🤔
If you are worried about this, planking is still not the way to go in a van. Top flooring layer, professionally, should be the last thing to be installed in the van. I do it first because I'm not worried. But last, you would have your floor down already up to the plywood layer from the beginning, and then at the very end you would cut out the vinyl to fit around all your furniture with a box knife or such and apply it the same way. My way is more simple, and technically if I do ever need to replace the floor, I could just cut out around the furniture and tear up that one part of the floor.
I'll be making it anyway! I've already decided. Might be the next quick video. Although it will just be the install with commentary. No long description of anything at the front of the video ^_^
Yes, video will come for sure! Probably soon. I've created a similar ceiling 3 times now and each time it holds up from wear over 4 years. This one will have the same look as my first van for the cieling, but way better even
I saw on your Facebook that you wanted to game but didn't want to use a lot of energy. You can configure some computers to use around 100 watts instead of the 300-600 watts a lot of computers use. Look for PC parts that are meant for efficiency and low wattage, and you'll find almost no difference between that and a high watt computer with the same parts.
Thanks for that. So what I've decided to do though is to get a Mac Mini for Video Editing and music creation. Uses 35 watts. Going to be a 30 inch curved ultrawide screen that uses about 35 watts too. So total will be under 80 watts. For gaming, I'll be getting the Steam Deck and be able to play forever without needing to turn anything off. I know it doesn't work with every single game, but I've taken a look at all the games so far and it's impressive and passable for me. It uses 45 watts, and I'll get the dock and connect it to my monitor, so gaming will be about 70 to maybe 90 watts total.
Thank you very much for the detailed process. One question: don't you need to put a wooden bars on the floor and cut the insulation in smaller pieces to put between those bars like the most of other van builders do? I mean will it be hard enough? For example, like here: th-cam.com/video/khZPfhh4fbo/w-d-xo.html I am about to start my floor work and a bit confused. And is 1/4 inch thickness is really enough? I really don't want to put 1 inch thick plywood because of the cost and most importantly - the weight. Thanks!
Yes, 1/4th is plenty, the insulation below keeps it from getting dented. And no, the insulation can be done over the entire floor without wooden bars. I've watched these other videos myself and it's a waste plus it's extra weight. My floor will last years. It's still the same today as when I made this video a year or so ago. No degradation.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks again! Just re-watched the video and noticed that you put XPS on the floor without any glue or foam - am i right? Why so? Why not to put it on foam for better insulation and more strength?
I don't think your heat loss comment is totally correct. The research study I looked at for BTU/HR heat loss for both insulated and uninsulated showed the greatest heat loss occurs in the walls followed by floor, then ceiling. Everything else (doors, windows, cab area) has significantly less heat loss than these top 3 areas.
I’m planning to do something similar tomorrow. I’m skipping the plywood though as I’m using pretty thick LVP 1/4”. My concern at my current stage (foam installed) is the XPS seems to squeak quite a bit even with most of the flooring on. I’ve seen a schoolies glue the flooring but that seems like to keep the floor down literally. In my case the furniture should hold everything as it will be bolted to the wall.
It works though. It was just to keep it down until everything above was placed on top. The furnishings keep it down nicely. Floor has a solid tap to it
Worst thing to do is fill those gaps in the floor, the pattern of the original van floor is designed to hold and drain vapour (water) that may build up under the subfloor, creating a vapour barrier. DONT DO THIS PLEASE….
This is why, you don't create any vapor barriers in the van! The van metal is already one of them. The van floor needs to breath. Do not worry, all of this is taken into account. The gaps still exist, none are perfect on purpose. Look closely at the video.
I would agree if you left the floor open for moisture or if you completely air tight sealed it, but it is not an issue the way I've done it. The valleys in the floor are mainly structural for support. If water spills below the floor, it needs to be able to condensate or dry out. This design is fine for that. I have the sides caulked off so no moisture or spilled fluids can get up under the flooring. Just daily normal condensation, and as long as you have enough air flow inside the van, it takes care of itself daily.
I only just came across this channel, but from what I've seen it seems like the most sensible balance between those "this company built my dream van for $100,000!!" type channels, and the "we're hipsters with no experience or skills who built our entire interior out of shipping pallets" types.
These videos make me think I could actually build something I could afford and be satisfied with
Yeah! You totally can without experience.
Step 1: Buy Van
Step 2: Build floor by watching a floor videos on TH-cam and taking the best of the best ideas away and just copy.
Step 3: repeat step 2 for the rest of the build.
Lol what a perfect description
Great information. Well done. Couple of observations. Primer is cheaper and faster if you buy a quart and just roll / brush it on. Also, people seem to worry about “rust” and do lots of rustproofing. You should be just as concerned about mold and/or mildew in all that untreated wood. Every piece of wood in your van should be sealed or primed to prevent water absorption and mold/mildew. Any “joints” in your subfloor are going to eventually “telegraph” in your vinyl. Joints should be filled (I use Rock Hard Water Putty from Ace Hardware) and then sanded smooth. To “roll” the vinyl, use a 2 ft length of 2 x 4 (with a factory rounded edge) wrapped in a piece of thin cloth to “squeegee” the air out and adhere the flooring. You MUST use enough pressure to collapse the ridges of adhesive created by the trowel if you want good adhesion.
Which one is better for sealing the wood? Water based or oil based?
Great video - your approach makes a lot of sense and is considerably simpler than many of the flooring installation videos out there. Thanks! 🙏
Can't wait to see how this turns out.
I have watched countless videos on insulating the subfloor, and THANK GOD I found yours before I committed because I am tall and your video is Heaven sent! That glue gun technique I've never seen done before (looks a bit tedious with the glue sticks) but I am trusting you 100%!!! Thank you!
Made it look far simpler then I was expecting it to be.
Thank you very much, it looks great too!
Honestly, I've watched so many vids on everyone's various insulation methods, (I've started dreaming of the Pink Panther herding sheep...) but, your method for the transit build is the first I've seen that is helping me to decide on my foundation floor design. I bought my van recently (2010 Sprinter 170WB) and I am waiting for materials to arrive - and weather to improve (it is cold as Fu*k here). Glad I found your channel and Thank you for the entertaining content! :)
And btw, the floor I built in this video is holding up great! I walk on it daily and it just works with no issues so far!
Sidestep seems like the most intimidating part of an install, would love to see it. Have seen people use baking rollers/pins for vinyl install in small areas.
Yes! Will post next. Easy to make video!
That’s actually a great idea, and very accessible. I was also coming to comment that the side step vid would be great to see!
I second this. Would love to see a video on the side step!
@@OutdoorsEmbrace May I please have the link to this sidestep vid? TYSM!!
I found it!!!
Your videos are incredibly helpful. Please keep sharing such valuable content. Thank you!
your subfloor looks better than most builds i have seen on you tube i saw a proffesional van builder put 2 layers of wood down and that was it
I've been in professional van building sites and watched them work. Most cut corners for duplication of many vans. Doing a custom build for everyone does not work for them, they lose money due to time spent figuring out new layouts of what the customer wants.
Independent van builders like me can always put out better work given we have the skills to do so. A full custom build like mine is about 10 to 20 times more work than a pro van builders van. They follow templates and have measurements match in similar vans. I measure each and every part carefully while taking full days to brainstorm each part throughout the build process. My build takes way longer of course. Theirs can take days and be a decent work. Mine will last rough wear and tear over at least 5 years. My first van build is still going strong, nothing inside has malfunctioned to any major extent even with the new owner. She still gives me updates on where she is and what's going on. Last I heard, one of the switches broke for electrical, but they were easy to replace.
Absolute legend! You make everything so easy for us with your perfect tutorials. Thank you
Thank you!
Thank you for all the details. May eye request a very simple video no one seems to share? Eye'd like a video on making the card board and tape templates? The weirder the shape the better.. Thanks a plenty.
Also, how are people accessing the key hole to drop their spare tire when they cover it with the flooring? (key hole is middle of the back ledge)
I marked it on the floor. If I need to access, I just poke a hole in the vinyl.
BEST BALANCE OF COST VS REWARD INSTALL. LOVE IT. YOU ARE SO SMART. HERE IS A BROWNIE POINT.
I love popping in to check on the progress of this man and his van builds. A great channel
Thank you! So much progress has been made in just the last month too! Got kitchen, TV, Bed,Table, desktop computer, and more coming soon! About to go on a trip to Florida once again!
@@OutdoorsEmbrace
If you used a roller, you would've done the floor a lot faster and more smoothly.
@travelinman482 i do not believe so, there are no bumps from air pockets in the floor, they were pushed out pretty well.
There are some bumps though, this is due to the plywood not sitting completely flat due to the actual metal floor being slightly uneven to begin with. It's not very noticeable at all anymore since all the furniture keeps down the floor from above.
I get I didn't follow all the best practices, but it's a damn good floor still! Good knock to it while cutting out engine and road noise from below.
Everything considered, I would only do one thing differently if I was to do it again. I would overlap the xps board and the plywood, not have them flush. This would have fixed all minor bumps. It was a thought while building, but I decided not to and stick to the easier templates made so everything was the same shape.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace
Ok, understood.
I'm so stoked on ur build I can't wait thanks for being so awesome!
Awesome video, going to be watching more that you make, thanks a ton !!
It sounds like a pro to me....
Thanks, great video!
Thanks for watching!
Great video mate loved it . l am saving for a van here in Melbourne Australia🇦🇺.
Great advice 👍
I know I'm a little late to this video, but it was amazing to watch! Thanks for the informational video as well as the great content. Have a great day, Ryan!
I'm building based on your build I. The exact same van so I want to see everything you did. Step ups or whatever please
You mean the Ford ecoline van?
Very good video, thank you for posting 🎉
Seeing ur amazing clear & precise skill ideas made me subscribed...Excited & waiting for more great episodes...Happy 2023 Everyone🎉🎉🎉
5:23 .. This is SUPPER funny, but not sure exactly why :) I used to subcontract doing flooring for my nieghbour .. Who was a flooring expert, and YES everything gets 5 kinds of glue on it. especially the van floor!! L0L !!! :)
10:33 I have been researching all this "van build" stuff for a week or so ..
Planning to start my van build soon!! ..
I was surprised to learn early on that both Gorla all purpose glue and Gorilla wood glue adhere well to styrofoam and do not "melt" it like many other glues do!! :)
I see a lot of vanlifers complain about bugs and rats, does this help, just the floor? Are there ways to do up other areas of the van for that? I'm puzzled because regulars don't have to worry about bugs or rats that much it seems.
yes, there are a lot. But rats are also just nature.
So never had any problems with either in my first van for 4 years. But for bed bugs I did sprinkle tons of diatomaceous earth behind all the wood work. This also kills spiders and other bugs that get in. Good idea, not harmful to us.
Rats I'm not sure of, never had an issue myself yet
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks a lot for replying! Forgot to ask if you've been in areas where there are normally a lot of bugs? I know some places just naturally don't have a lot.
Just want to confirm with your build you were able to keep pretty bug-free even in buggy areas, and not that it's just your area is pretty bug free haha. Sorry I'm new and haven't been following so don't know where you normally go :)
great video. the van is looking Awesome. thanks Don
ok not sure if your video is regional... heat does come from the roof down, but cold comes from the floor up! And if you're anywhere out of the American southern states, cold becomes a concern. Here around Lake Ontario, it's -40C to +40C depending on the time of year!!!
Great video and thank you for sharing! One question, do you think filling in the floor valleys restricts airflow? And is that airflow helpful/necessary? I assume it is to support the XPS evenly but are the flat peaks not already enough?
This is a great question! So no air flow is needed below the floor, but I still would not completely block off all openings, just in case it does get humid below. It should be able to evaporate.
The ribs themselves are perhaps plenty enough for the XPS board. I would personally trust just the ribs for the xps, even over time, but I still wouldn't build it this way for myself.
I am considering the same, as the airflow would seem to help with with condensation. The XPS used can support 25 lbs. per square inch, estimating the cargo area of about 70 sq. feet and approximating half that is raised surface, that is about 5000 square inches, which could support 125,000 lbs. Considering that the plywood would spread out any weight direct applied from above, the valleys between the raised areas would never get direct the full weight. Still reseachng.
Love your videos man, waiting for more!
Do you do insulation for others?
Was just thinking this question as I’m about to start on my van. 😊
Hey, I have before, but insulation is the most time consuming part. My new video coming this week is about insulation. You should watch it!
@@OutdoorsEmbrace look forward to watching that 😄 thank you !
"Go back back and cut the damn thing!" LOVE IT!!!! LMAO
how do you mount your kitchen console, etc
To the van metal that isn't exterior of the van. You put screws through the wooden frame of the kitchen that go into parts of the metal.
What is your opinion on aluminum framed grid as a subfloor? I saw a video with a guy installing it - his concerns were that aluminum withstands condensation and because of that rust better than wood.
It's good, but you don't need it if you allow your floor to breath. Do Not completely seal it off, but make it waterproof from spills.
Great video! Michaela just subbed, finally. My all time favorite part of this video is 13:11! I'm sure you can guess why! Love it!
Wow this looks amazing! I’m looking forward to seeing how the rest of your van turns out. I love the logo!
Thanks guys! I'll be doing tons of work on it these next two months. Oh btw, I believe I'm leaving for Florida on Jan 1st. I pushed the date back cause all the trips I was taking were holding back my build haha. Now I'm just building and videoing everything.
The LOGO will be used a ton more soon! I'll be putting it on shirts, but I want to get OE logo done first with just the text so it can go under the shark on the shirt
@@OutdoorsEmbrace no problem! Going to make it down for NYE?
What do you mean OE? I'm lost. Lol
@@livingthedash6727
OE = Outdoors Embrace
I want a logo with just text
I'll be spending NYE with my family and the day after be headed down most likely. I'm actually trying to leave sooner, but so much of the van can be done now so I'm exited to stay and keep working.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace and I get to do that one too?
So my 2 cents As a person that been in Autobody for 30+ years
#1 When prepping a metal floor/wall etc Remove all the item on the floor which was done..However you then want to scuff the rest of the paint around the exposed metal for it to stick to Wipe the area with a grease/oil remover. Take note : Primer is not a paint. Primer is a chemical that is a adhesive that bonds to metal as it dries And is porus And promotes paint to fill in the micro holes it has And lay flat And seals from outside moisture ....Without actual paint as a sealer In time that primer becomes weaker every time moisture is introduced Causing rust. You would be better off to forgo the primer And just use rust paint..In the auto primer world there is Welding primer, Filler primer primers color correct primers All of them need a sealer.
#2 Car sheet metal is about 0.5mm thick Compared to a home that has 4 inch bricks And wood behind that Or 6 inches of concrete as a basement. Bricks have a low thermal conductivity, Where metal has a high thermal conductivity And transfer So ANY where you see metal exposed is a focal point where heat/cold transfer. Think of it like a frying pan You go to grab it And burn your hand on the handle (we all have done it) So YES! you want that insulation from the pan to your hand...And rubber is a fantastic insulator Think of it like the primer from the #1 comment. It has dense non-conductive pores You can use adhesives to it. It is flexible, Waterproof, And takes many years to become brittle And worn out. So in a Van / RV where you have angles And protruding humps And framing why would you leave that exposed? And go over it with framing wood (Furring strips) ? Wood absorbs Hot/cold opening And closing its pours Which then fill with moisture rotting And molding (This is why there is building codes preventing Wood into the ground And into concrete without a barrier normally made of rubber)
I find rubber mat is good for middle paneling (sound deadening) But you want yourself about min 6 cans of rubberized spray for all the framing parts Inside and out And you want min 1/2' of rubber Let it dry And fill (not JAM) the framing with insulation to prevent air movement ...I went a step further And done a light coat on the side i was using my wood furring strip the day before install. You will want to spray the rear doors aswell Do not fill them with wool Or fiberglass explained in #3
#3 Thru out the whole van/car/truck where do most people see rust on a Vehicle? The bottom. This is because when it rains all that dirt people drive thru washes downwards stopping inside of plastic trims Behind door panels And gets trapped inside the bottom of doors And rocker panels Bottom of wheel arches etc It then forms into mud..Mud takes much longer to dry out than normal water making paint over the years soft And once a opening is made the mud sits between the paint And the metal - rust.......I say all that for this At the bottom of your panels you have weeping holes for water to escape. Doors, Rocker panels In rain while driving Water does now And then spray inside the holes The rockers do get wet ..No big deal But if you fill them with anything Its like the mud i mentioned So like this shot @7:17 You can do what i done. I sprayed my rubber inside that square hole Avoiding the weeping holes (taped them) Added a L shaped plastic cardboard piece i cut (Dollar store item) capping off that edge of the metal lip And used Closed cell BASF Walltite spray foam inside which was a single light pass that did fill inside but did not press against the panel And frame On the interior i sprayed 2.5 inches level with the furring strips (Foam cutter blade for sawall) 1- inch of this foam is about 6.5 avg Thru out the van with the rubber, The thermo padded window covers I would not say my build is the "Best" But i seen alot of other vans with exposed metal And improper/waste of products And compared side by side Its like having the heater on with windows half way down in the middle of a blizzard.
Other tips...if you run spray foam Put all your wiring in mini pvc tubing say ether 4 or 5 in one Or use it all in a larger tube Then spray over it ..This way you can add And remove wires without having to dig out the foam to get to them just fish them thru
Could you clarify something for me? When you put the strips of plywood on the deadener strips, was the plywood actually higher than the peaks of the ridges, creating a little gap above them with the foam, or was it flat across the plywood and the peaks?
It was pretty much flush
Hello, that aluminum tape does not break any thermal bridge. It will only interrupt air leakage (with possible high humidity). Aluminum is a perfect thermal conductor and that means it forms thermal bridges ;-)
You are 100% correct. I made an error saying that!
Are you worried about the 1 inch XPS foam caving under the pressure of cabinets and other heavy objects over time? I heard this concern a lot online among those who use insulation in the floor?
No, it's designed to be put under concrete. It doesn't cave in like that. You could look at mine under the floor in 5 years and it would look the same.
That was really great, thanks! 🙌👍
Very detailed instruction thanks so much. 1 quick question, does the foam strong enough to withstand the weight from all the cabinets, batteries, water tank, benches, beds, and daily walk around without compressing?
Yes! The XPS Board is made to be under concrete slabs long term. They do not compress unless you dent them in one tiny area.
You think if I were to bolt something down to the floor, it would break?
Depends on what it is, but probably not. I don't see an issue
12:09 .. The heavy flooring rollers ar a popular rental item at your local Rent Stuff Place!1 .. I think $15 for the day?
How is that wood glue holding up between the plywood and foam? Is it still solid?
It's great. Everything on top of the floor also holds everything down well. It's not something I was worried about too much and still doing great. Floor has a solid feel to it!
I see a lot of installs where the firring strips are waterproofed and mold/mildew proofed. Did you look into that before laying yours?
Yes, I don't recommend any coating on wood below the bed, or furing strips for floor. My first van had no issues and the floor was basically done the same.
....good show ...good to know
did you consider integrating supporting beams in between the xps insulation to avoid height differences from walking over time? Or would the plywood be thick enough to avoid that?
I knew the furniture above would keep the floor down over time. No isses. I wouldn't do anything differently in this case (especially not put beams across the floor like you mentioned, which would introduce thermal bridges). My entire build has almost no direct thermal bridges, insulation was always the most important thing.
The only thing I might do differently next time or if I was to do this over would be to overlay the xps and the plywood in different spots, and not be the same shape. This would negate all bumps completely through the entire floor.
Moreover, XPS is below grade material and has a compression strength of 25 psi, which is great to be honest. His quarter inch thick plywood should be fine overtime. Just as long as his girlfriend is not jumping up and down in high heels on her heels in one spot every day of his life. Lol😅
What about using a miter saw extension roller? It’s made of galvanized steel, is lighter and cheaper (10lbs/$30) than a standard vinyl roller (70lbs/$270+) and prob better than a kitchen pastry roller! 😊
Is not the stock Step slip proof? So when changed it to a beautiful wood piece. Is there not a greater risk of slipping? I want to change out mine but had people tell me that. How did it work out for you? Do you live near water with your Van? As I do.
The stock is a little more slip proof, but the wood version isn't slippery at all. Odd thing for them to think or complain about. Make your van the way YOU want it. There is nothing wrong with the side step change.
+1 for the sidestep
but does it have airflow. Condensation will build if it doesnt flow air. Doesnt matter about insulation better to have air flow then insulation
Absolutely correct! I should have spoken about this in the video.
But insulation is also the #1 most important part of a build, determining the comfort level of living more than any other improvement you can do.
Mine does allow air to flow since their are gaps between each part of the floor. Might not be easily seen in video, but I've looked beneath the floor since and it's dry.
Keep it up. We appreciate it.
Thanks, will do!
Yes please do the sidestep if you haven’t already!
Sidestep video is up! Close after this one on the video list!
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Got it thanks 😁
Are there any links or ref where I can get this exact quality work done in Texas 🤔
No way do I hv this skill or used the tools.
I can be in and between these citys.
Dallas, Ftw, Denton, Austin, Pflugerville, Roundrock. Thanks, great work and video!
I know there are people out that way. My advice is to get on a FB group or similar and ask around.
Yes to sidestep! Thank you for sharing all your great wisdom. It looks great! Was the Green Guard eco-friendly (I am chemical sensitive so looking for green materials)? Well done!!!
I'm actually not sure about that! It is XPS board though and should be!
Superb video !!! George U.K.
Good work, keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
Just wondering, how are young to install that bathroom/shower/cabinet door hung with the floor already there? Will there be a drain or just something above floor level routed another way?
I will cut a drain. We wanted the floor to be insulated all the way, so we decided to put the floor everywhere. The tub/tray of the shower system will go above and be fine
@@OutdoorsEmbrace cool, thabks bro
In Florida Glue guns in a van don't work, the sun re-melts the glue
It stays cool enough on the floor. It hasn't been effected yet, still great
How much did just the flooring cost
Ooo, so if i had to remember for all the materials I used personally, I would say it cost in total around $300 to $400. This includes all parts of my floor Install total.
I was scouring the comments to find this question. Thank you
So will the foam board be ok to walk on? Other's install wood ribs in between foam panels?
Yes, it's made to go under concrete. It's made for this
Have a question are you going to finish your build this year or you going to finish it next year since its getting so close to winter?
Next year, but a ton is still getting done this year. I'll be making a trip to Florida soon
Just looking forward to see the final build of everything
@@bigpete5987 just wait, some exiting things are going in this month still. Bed, desktop computer, diesel heater, and kitchen
Cool can't wait to see the progress
Great flooring video. Simple, to the point, no BS! How is the flooring holding up after a few years use?
It's doing great! I looked beneath floor recently and it's dry. The slots between the wood I put down there act as airway for moisture to dissipate. Floor looks just as when built
Yo Ryan, one thing I always wondered is if lots of insulation works the same as sound-deadening. If you insulate the crap out of your van, do you think it's necessary to use sound-deadening underneath? I suppose that sound-deadening the wheel wells would be the best place to use it, as well as the flat wall panels of the thin van metal walls. What are your thoughts?
So I used the sound deadening also as a space filler between the floor ribs in this one. I think, in the end of the floor build, that it does something to stop any knocking sounds from below, but vastly the insulation makes the most difference in sound overall.
I do recommend sound deadening over the ceiling mostly, for rain sound deadening. If you heavily insulate, it makes it ever so less important for sound deadening, unless you plan on putting some heavy subwoofer in the build which could rattle the metal... which was my main concern.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks man. Yeah, I think when I do my van, I will probably put 1/2 inch insulation in the grooves underneath the 1inch main foam insulation for the floor. I will probably do 1 1/2 inch foam for the floor since I want it to be 4 season.
Why do Vans not have smooth floors? Is it for Flex or something?
The empty van floor has ribs so it maintains structure. A Flat Floor would quickly be damaged under load.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks!
Thank You. I am sure YOUR videos help many folks get projects done better than w/o this content.-TrashyTodd
I appreciate that!
Yes I would like to see the side step video .........
The video is up now! Last one uploaded!
Very Good Video
While the plywood is glued it would be good to use a Staple gun to keep it all even where the joins meet
N I C E
Hey, I’m installing my van’s floor as we speak and I’m pretty much following this guide step by step😂 nice vid bro! any chance we could get an updated discord link? Also is there an electrical setup video for Megalodon coming up or did I miss that one?
There is an updated electronic video coming soon! That one will be so full of info!
The discord never took off and they keep switching the links so don't think it's a good way to spread the channel actually. I thought it would work well, but no. I'm here if you need me though!
By the way, what's the biggest question you have about electrical and I'll include the answer in the video.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Nice!! Can’t wait for that one bro! Yeah I fully get that, Discord is annoying with that link policy for sure. The biggest question I have about the electrical is do you configure it before or after the insulation and wall installs?
@brendominus ok, that I'd a great question to answer in the video! I've heard others ask that question before and I've had a similar question myself when starting 6 years ago. I would say it depends, but to me it's best overall to install insulation first so you can still have access to the electrical wires if they need to be fixed. Certain large wires might be OK to be permanently fixed in the wall though, if you know they are just runner wires and will never need to be touched.
When condensation gets under the floor it will rot all those plywood fillers. You need air space below floor to dry out the moisture. Watch any videos of floor removal after over 18 months of full time in van and you will realize this.
I have checked under my floors since. They are looking just like they were day 1. The reason being is that there is an air space, like you said. Air can flow freely below, as seen in video, not every single gap was filled, just enough to level it.
@CoryMickey yes! Absolutely fine too as long as you can get the proper thickness where you need it!
...never try to cut thru 1 in of foam with one cut ...always trace the line then come back thru again and yet again .,..three times is usual ...yea I used to work in a prototype design studio ...sooo
Why the need to sound deaden the flloor. You wont be in it when driving so when go to such lengths. Wouldnt it make more sense to beef uf the roof with insulation instead
great result! But why add so much sound deadening material to the floor? Wouldn't it suffice to just fill in the larger panels? This way you add a lot of weight and it may not do much? At least that's what I got from another video (where someone also said "you're all doing it wrong" 🙂)
Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/vSTRHSDfk28/w-d-xo.html
At this point, I agree. The sound deadening was minimal for the floor, although it did work well on the walls. The XPS board deadens the sound just fine, mostly negating the need for sound deadening layer. It still does do something though, but the extra weight might not be worth it like you said.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace cool, thanks for the clarification! I'm learning from every video (yours was great too) and one day will convert my own van too :)
Debating vinyl roll out vs planking bc I could see dragging something across the floor and ripping, gouging, cutting, or scrathing the roll out. And then also having to replace a section isn't possible with roll out. 🤔
If you are worried about this, planking is still not the way to go in a van. Top flooring layer, professionally, should be the last thing to be installed in the van. I do it first because I'm not worried. But last, you would have your floor down already up to the plywood layer from the beginning, and then at the very end you would cut out the vinyl to fit around all your furniture with a box knife or such and apply it the same way.
My way is more simple, and technically if I do ever need to replace the floor, I could just cut out around the furniture and tear up that one part of the floor.
I’ve seen folks use a baker’s rolling pin to roll the floor.
Yes plz, we want the step video
I'll be making it anyway! I've already decided. Might be the next quick video. Although it will just be the install with commentary. No long description of anything at the front of the video ^_^
The ceiling?
Yes, video will come for sure! Probably soon. I've created a similar ceiling 3 times now and each time it holds up from wear over 4 years. This one will have the same look as my first van for the cieling, but way better even
I was surprised you didn't use black caulk
Why? Is black caulk better?
@@OutdoorsEmbrace It's, uh, bigger
@@reginaldwilsonviii1446 haaaa
I saw on your Facebook that you wanted to game but didn't want to use a lot of energy. You can configure some computers to use around 100 watts instead of the 300-600 watts a lot of computers use. Look for PC parts that are meant for efficiency and low wattage, and you'll find almost no difference between that and a high watt computer with the same parts.
Tech YES City has a good video on this actually
Thanks for that. So what I've decided to do though is to get a Mac Mini for Video Editing and music creation. Uses 35 watts. Going to be a 30 inch curved ultrawide screen that uses about 35 watts too.
So total will be under 80 watts.
For gaming, I'll be getting the Steam Deck and be able to play forever without needing to turn anything off. I know it doesn't work with every single game, but I've taken a look at all the games so far and it's impressive and passable for me. It uses 45 watts, and I'll get the dock and connect it to my monitor, so gaming will be about 70 to maybe 90 watts total.
Thank you very much for the detailed process. One question: don't you need to put a wooden bars on the floor and cut the insulation in smaller pieces to put between those bars like the most of other van builders do? I mean will it be hard enough? For example, like here: th-cam.com/video/khZPfhh4fbo/w-d-xo.html
I am about to start my floor work and a bit confused. And is 1/4 inch thickness is really enough? I really don't want to put 1 inch thick plywood because of the cost and most importantly - the weight. Thanks!
Yes, 1/4th is plenty, the insulation below keeps it from getting dented.
And no, the insulation can be done over the entire floor without wooden bars. I've watched these other videos myself and it's a waste plus it's extra weight. My floor will last years. It's still the same today as when I made this video a year or so ago. No degradation.
@@OutdoorsEmbraceThank you so much for the tips!
@@OutdoorsEmbrace Thanks again! Just re-watched the video and noticed that you put XPS on the floor without any glue or foam - am i right? Why so? Why not to put it on foam for better insulation and more strength?
@theokaralenka glue should be used for both sides, I may have failed to include that in the video.
Did the mosquito manage to survive?
Perhaps. I forget haha
@@OutdoorsEmbrace lol.. ...my guess is he stuck around! ...btw, great video, I saved it.
Insulate the rest with 2" closed cell foam
I don't think your heat loss comment is totally correct. The research study I looked at for BTU/HR heat loss for both insulated and uninsulated showed the greatest heat loss occurs in the walls followed by floor, then ceiling. Everything else (doors, windows, cab area) has significantly less heat loss than these top 3 areas.
I’m planning to do something similar tomorrow. I’m skipping the plywood though as I’m using pretty thick LVP 1/4”.
My concern at my current stage (foam installed) is the XPS seems to squeak quite a bit even with most of the flooring on. I’ve seen a schoolies glue the flooring but that seems like to keep the floor down literally. In my case the furniture should hold everything as it will be bolted to the wall.
Yeah, I haven't had once squeek in my floor yet. And I agree the furniture can keep down the floor, but glue could be used in tandem
I agree with only little of this. And NOT about to use a vinyl floor, of any type.
dude. those air bubbles are s upposed to be there to add to the insulation.......
❤
😁
Hot glue ... Wood glue ..😞
It works though. It was just to keep it down until everything above was placed on top. The furnishings keep it down nicely. Floor has a solid tap to it
You need air flow under the flooring and you completely covered it up
It does have some air flow. I lifted the floor a bit recently and it's still exactly as I left it. Good and dry.
Off topic asf. But happy Veterans Day
Thank you!
Foam will crush. Or flatten. Flooring should go under all in vans. Everyone has an opinion. Not all work.
XPS Foam is made to go under concrete.
@@OutdoorsEmbrace that should work. Expensive? R value?
You lost me when you said you caulk your floor…you silicone it nit caulk.bye
You aren't wrong. Good thing we used silicone. Honestly, both can be used but silicone is the better choice since it lasts longer and is flexible
Worst thing to do is fill those gaps in the floor, the pattern of the original van floor is designed to hold and drain vapour (water) that may build up under the subfloor, creating a vapour barrier. DONT DO THIS PLEASE….
This is why, you don't create any vapor barriers in the van! The van metal is already one of them. The van floor needs to breath. Do not worry, all of this is taken into account. The gaps still exist, none are perfect on purpose. Look closely at the video.
Ribs are structural, don’t believe everything Humble Road/TH-cam tells you, he told me I couldn’t mount a double burner cooktop, fits fine in CAD.
The valleys in the floor allow water/air to evacuate..filling them is one of the biggest mistakes these van builders all make…
I would agree if you left the floor open for moisture or if you completely air tight sealed it, but it is not an issue the way I've done it.
The valleys in the floor are mainly structural for support. If water spills below the floor, it needs to be able to condensate or dry out. This design is fine for that.
I have the sides caulked off so no moisture or spilled fluids can get up under the flooring. Just daily normal condensation, and as long as you have enough air flow inside the van, it takes care of itself daily.