Im rebuilding one of these right now, and the power enrichment valve spring was missing, rendering the power enrichment circuit usesless. I wanted to verify this application requires one. I see one sticking out of yours, I cannibalized a holley power valve for a spring.
Does your engine have some contraption running off the belt that has linkages going to carburetor? I would think it was a governor but governors run off camshaft?
Yes, it is a 'Hoof' (or other brand) governor, belt driven and has it's own oil supply. Keep the belt in good order... I am told that if the belt fails or slips that the engine could overspeed and damage itself. Thank you for the question.
I didn't remove the blocking plate, and yes, I do feel that the operational primary part of the carb is bone stock automotive. Others may chime in with their own opinion. The secondary cannot be used, the high horsepower would twist something off.
Yes, it has been working well for a couple of years. For a time thought I was beat and wouldn't get the passages cleaned properly. It gets a regular dose of 'fuel injection cleaner' to keep everything spotless inside the carb.
Got both carb kits ready to tear apart the thing is hard to start now while starting I smell gas like it's flooded but. Eventually starts chugs and puffs very rich but smooths out I do have a low pressure fuel pump on it .. tore carb apart not really that bad but where the fuel comes on there's a mesh tube was filthy in there hoping this works..
Yes, you have found the hidden internal filter... If it is running rich, could be several things, choke adjustment, needle and seat not sealing, blocked air filter, etc. Let me know if it is working properly when you get the kits installed.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 it is running very rich upon startup has brand new air filter the seat works I checked it but alot of the gaskets were just junk
Yes, the original 642b mitsubishi carb is an automotive carb with the secondaries blocked to reduce the horsepower to manageable levels. An intact carb would give, say, a hundred hp and destroy the hydraulics. Many good usable parts on a similar automotive one if needed, just not the main body.
I have the same carb apart at the moment. I found that the inlet to the accelerator pump was a check ball with no spring, the brass weight seems to be a press fit and does not bear on the ball, gravity keeps the ball on the seat until it pulls off under pump suction. Does this sound the same as yours?
Hi. On mine, the inlet check ball is as you say, trapped by a driven-in pin. Mine was stuck with crud and very difficult to access for cleaning. I was able to work the ball loose with a '90 degree' o-ring pick. On mine, the outlet check ball on the way to the orifice is held down by a loose brass pin used for a weight on the ball. Hope this helps in some small way.
On my 642b 4g32 I'm getting stuttering under load changed plug points condenser coil tried messing with fuel air mixture didnt help. There is a white round knob on side of carb by the fuel air what could that be?
'Stuttering under load'... If it runs smooth the rest of the time, could the problem be spark jumping across a dirty distributor cap? Arcing across poor plug wires? Fuel delivery? There is a hidden filter inside the carb housing, just inside where the fuel line enters. Can you see the fuel level in the sight-glass? A small bottle or two of 'fuel injection cleaner' can do wonders on a partially dirty carb.
@@jesturn5232 My recommendation is a couple of small bottles of fuel injection cleaner. Sounds like the supply is fine, but needs choke to pull fuel through partially blocked passages.
I've cleaned the carb and I'm asking what the jets should be set at, I did turn each out a turn and a half unfortunately it was already taken apart by someone else so Im not sure if that setting is correct or needs to be adjusted, it likes to back fire after about twenty seconds of running
Hello. The idle mixture screw should be the one with the visible spring on it. Manual says to set idle to 850-950 rpm warm. Adjust mixture needle in until rpm starts to drop. Note position. Adjust needle out until rpm drop. Note position. Adjust screw at midpoint. I cannot find instructions for the adjustment of the by-pass screw: "The bypass screw is for adjusting the flow of fuel to the by-pass hole which provides mixture for engine operation from off idle to a medium load operation."
@@philjulga4393 Yes, I watched the video to refresh my memory: Since I was able to salvage my needle and seat, I just ordered the kit mentioned above. I hope you are able to source the two kits with the information in the video. If you watch the video again, you will note that most of the numbers given are 'cross-overs' to assist in finding available stock. Let me know how you make out.
Thank you for the comment. Finding a new carb would be very difficult, I think. Being as it is an automotive 2bbl blanked off to a horsepower limiting 1bbl... The carb was the most difficult thing to restore on my project, but I was able to finally clean all the little passages and it works fine now. Phew! It was possibly the most difficult carb restoration I have done. That said, there is a skid-steer wrecker from which on may be able to purchase a used one if need be.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 if you still have the packaging from repair kit, sometimes its written in the back of packaging for specific engine displacement.
@@4g63_Everything I only kept the ends of the box with the leftover parts... The instruction sheet is from: 1977 Techlit Co.#50-492-2. (Mikuni Solex carburetor - Model 28 - 32DID - Early) There is lots of information, but I don't see anything in regards jet/orifice sizes.
My carb (642B - 742B Bobcat skid steer Mitsubishi 4G32 engine) Mikuni Solex 2BBL is a MI-SL-2 Series (28-32 DID Early or 28-32 DIDTA Late) Other applications are '76-'77 Plymouth Arrow or a 1.6L Dodge Colt. Many applications including some Clark forklifts, etc. You may be able to source a solenoid for one of these units if not available from Bobcat?
Always fun when working on Carbs LOL!!
you should look into getting a ultrasonic cleaner
they are amazing!!!
Yea, don't need it often but need it.
Im rebuilding one of these right now, and the power enrichment valve spring was missing, rendering the power enrichment circuit usesless. I wanted to verify this application requires one. I see one sticking out of yours, I cannibalized a holley power valve for a spring.
Thank you for the comment. Good chance that your fix will work!
Does your engine have some contraption running off the belt that has linkages going to carburetor? I would think it was a governor but governors run off camshaft?
Yes, it is a 'Hoof' (or other brand) governor, belt driven and has it's own oil supply. Keep the belt in good order... I am told that if the belt fails or slips that the engine could overspeed and damage itself. Thank you for the question.
Did that bore blocking plate come out easy? Also do you know if a car carb and a bobcat carb use same jets and needles?
I didn't remove the blocking plate, and yes, I do feel that the operational primary part of the carb is bone stock automotive. Others may chime in with their own opinion. The secondary cannot be used, the high horsepower would twist something off.
Good information here. Did you figure out the problem? Ive been researching and the aftermarket car carbs dont have accelerator pump like bobcat does
Yes, it has been working well for a couple of years. For a time thought I was beat and wouldn't get the passages cleaned properly. It gets a regular dose of 'fuel injection cleaner' to keep everything spotless inside the carb.
I read ultrasonic cleaners work real good.also some guys having sucesss using $100 car carb with spacer
Got both carb kits ready to tear apart the thing is hard to start now while starting I smell gas like it's flooded but. Eventually starts chugs and puffs very rich but smooths out I do have a low pressure fuel pump on it .. tore carb apart not really that bad but where the fuel comes on there's a mesh tube was filthy in there hoping this works..
Yes, you have found the hidden internal filter... If it is running rich, could be several things, choke adjustment, needle and seat not sealing, blocked air filter, etc. Let me know if it is working properly when you get the kits installed.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 it is running very rich upon startup has brand new air filter the seat works I checked it but alot of the gaskets were just junk
Choke is set all good u double checked that I even installed a electric fuel pump thinking the seat was bad and gravity feeding gas but seats good .m
@@philjulga4393 Maybe check the instructions for the 'float height', that is important.
When you get it running properly, 'Fuel Injection Cleaner' is your friend. Use it occasionally to keep the carb internals clean.
Did your carb have model # like 28-32did? Mine has no number
Yes, there were #'s on the carb body.
Is that original carb on bobcat? What about those 4g32 car carbs on ebay?
Yes, the original 642b mitsubishi carb is an automotive carb with the secondaries blocked to reduce the horsepower to manageable levels. An intact carb would give, say, a hundred hp and destroy the hydraulics. Many good usable parts on a similar automotive one if needed, just not the main body.
Where did you purchase the CK453B wells carb kit?
Ebay seller 'autopartsaaa'. Hope this helps!
I have the same carb apart at the moment. I found that the inlet to the accelerator pump was a check ball with no spring, the brass weight seems to be a press fit and does not bear on the ball, gravity keeps the ball on the seat until it pulls off under pump suction.
Does this sound the same as yours?
Hi. On mine, the inlet check ball is as you say, trapped by a driven-in pin. Mine was stuck with crud and very difficult to access for cleaning. I was able to work the ball loose with a '90 degree' o-ring pick. On mine, the outlet check ball on the way to the orifice is held down by a loose brass pin used for a weight on the ball. Hope this helps in some small way.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518
Really appreciate the response and the video.
Likely I would have tried to get the driven pin moving and damaged something.
@@David-me2xc Glad I could be of help. Let me know how you make out with it.
On my 642b 4g32 I'm getting stuttering under load changed plug points condenser coil tried messing with fuel air mixture didnt help. There is a white round knob on side of carb by the fuel air what could that be?
Is the 'white round knob' a plastic cap over the pipe that sticks out towards the air cleaner?
'Stuttering under load'... If it runs smooth the rest of the time, could the problem be spark jumping across a dirty distributor cap? Arcing across poor plug wires? Fuel delivery? There is a hidden filter inside the carb housing, just inside where the fuel line enters. Can you see the fuel level in the sight-glass? A small bottle or two of 'fuel injection cleaner' can do wonders on a partially dirty carb.
When choke is pulled it runs like new smooth no bogging down, works fine but take choke off and back to the stuttering
I will try to pull the white knob and see if it's just a cap. Should there be two adjustments?
@@jesturn5232 My recommendation is a couple of small bottles of fuel injection cleaner. Sounds like the supply is fine, but needs choke to pull fuel through partially blocked passages.
I've cleaned the carb and I'm asking what the jets should be set at, I did turn each out a turn and a half unfortunately it was already taken apart by someone else so Im not sure if that setting is correct or needs to be adjusted, it likes to back fire after about twenty seconds of running
Hello. The idle mixture screw should be the one with the visible spring on it. Manual says to set idle to 850-950 rpm warm. Adjust mixture needle in until rpm starts to drop. Note position. Adjust needle out until rpm drop. Note position. Adjust screw at midpoint. I cannot find instructions for the adjustment of the by-pass screw:
"The bypass screw is for adjusting the flow of fuel to the by-pass hole which provides mixture for engine operation from off idle to a medium load operation."
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 thank you
Zeke what did u pay for the 2 carb kits ?? I'm seeing about 50 a kit ..
Autoparts AAA #155581B/CK453B (New Wells 1971-1988 Dodge Plymouth Carb Repair Kit.) $14.99 plus shipping etc.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 not seeing that one anymore u got a deal on that
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 for a full carb rebuild I need the 2 walker kits in your video correct
@@philjulga4393 Yes, I watched the video to refresh my memory: Since I was able to salvage my needle and seat, I just ordered the kit mentioned above. I hope you are able to source the two kits with the information in the video. If you watch the video again, you will note that most of the numbers given are 'cross-overs' to assist in finding available stock. Let me know how you make out.
If I wanted to order a new carb which 1 would it be? I can’t seem to find it
Thank you for the comment. Finding a new carb would be very difficult, I think. Being as it is an automotive 2bbl blanked off to a horsepower limiting 1bbl... The carb was the most difficult thing to restore on my project, but I was able to finally clean all the little passages and it works fine now. Phew! It was possibly the most difficult carb restoration I have done. That said, there is a skid-steer wrecker from which on may be able to purchase a used one if need be.
What are the Jetting numbers?
Sorry, I neglected to mark that information down when I had the carb apart.
@@zeketheantiquefreak8518 if you still have the packaging from repair kit, sometimes its written in the back of packaging for specific engine displacement.
@@4g63_Everything I only kept the ends of the box with the leftover parts... The instruction sheet is from: 1977 Techlit Co.#50-492-2. (Mikuni Solex carburetor - Model 28 - 32DID - Early) There is lots of information, but I don't see anything in regards jet/orifice sizes.
Hi i need solenoid for my carburator 642b solex 4g32 can you help me how to order? Thanks
My carb (642B - 742B Bobcat skid steer Mitsubishi 4G32 engine) Mikuni Solex 2BBL is a MI-SL-2 Series (28-32 DID Early or 28-32 DIDTA Late) Other applications are '76-'77 Plymouth Arrow or a 1.6L Dodge Colt. Many applications including some Clark forklifts, etc. You may be able to source a solenoid for one of these units if not available from Bobcat?