So is it the old style lever that requires ywo syringes to bleed it then?its been years since ive bled one and im trying to remember what yo do! 😂 Ive got the "newer" style 1x lever but seem to remember something about needing two syringes
Thx I have been removing post from Turbo Levo, pure hell to get to the other end, not necessary. Oh, if you don't have the correct fitting like mine wasn't long enough, use a piece of 1/4 inch fuel line to make the connection, force into the outside hole and make sure it's air tight, worked like charm.
@@cat1racer the problem I had was where the hose screws over the fitting on the remote. On mine the lever fitting just self taps into the hose and it needed tightening. I got almost a full turn on mine and never had any more problems.
@@ReluctantRider No it's not enough, it's good enough for a quick bleed. But the fluid degrades in the line, so you wanna flush it with some fresh oil every once a while...
have you experienced the reverb dropper being rather difficult to push down after the bleed? when i installed the 1x lever, initially it wasn't working a all. then after a number of attempts it's finally extending at a good speed, but often i really have to push hard while sitting to initiate the drop. do you think it has something to do with the bleed?
i hope so! the fact is that it's working ok now and the speed coming up is fine, which i think is more important. so i'm basically afraid to touch it again since it took me about 4 bleed attempts to get it working. if it seizes up eventually i will have to though.... great channel btw!
@@ΔημητριοςΡουτσολιας yes it shouldn't really effect button stiffness but if you take your saddle off there is a valve in the top of the seat post where the charge is to pop it up. Maybe if the pressure is high the button is hard to press?
Beware of nicking the "O" ring on the top bleed connector, the Bleeding Edge Tool. There seems to be a sharp edge you need to get past to seal the bleeding edge tool "O" ring in position and it very easily nicks the ring. I've gone through 4 "O" rings trying to do the final bleed up top. The part # for the "O" ring at Ace is #61 9/32 OD x 5/32 ID, probably the wrong rubber (they may be swelling once the fluid hits it). If once the tool is set (you can feel resistance before opening the valve) you apply suction with the valve closed and bubbles come up the "O" ring is not sealing and may be nicked. Rock Shox could easily solve this by beveling the sharp edge.
Started to pull lots of air through the syringe. After about an hour of doing this I checked the o ring and saw that it was damaged. I think the size it 4.1mm ID x 7.3 ED. Will order quite a few of them.
This is the best, if not the only, home shop instructional video for the post 2022 Reverb post/lever. I watch every 6 months when my post slows down!
So is it the old style lever that requires ywo syringes to bleed it then?its been years since ive bled one and im trying to remember what yo do! 😂 Ive got the "newer" style 1x lever but seem to remember something about needing two syringes
Completely saved my day ! worked like a charm ! my 1x reverb is now lightning fast again
This is simply the best video for bleeding the lever
This is quick! better than the official video from manufacturer! nice!
Thanks mate
No its not...
I normally never comment but that helped a lot! Thank you :)
Happy to help!
Dude, best thing on the interwebs to the date.
Thx I have been removing post from Turbo Levo, pure hell to get to the other end, not necessary. Oh, if you don't have the correct fitting like mine wasn't long enough, use a piece of 1/4 inch fuel line to make the connection, force into the outside hole and make sure it's air tight, worked like charm.
Usually bleeding the remote end is enough as its the highest point in the system 👍
@@ReluctantRider Brilliant ! I keep having to bleed it, any ideas ?
@@cat1racer the problem I had was where the hose screws over the fitting on the remote. On mine the lever fitting just self taps into the hose and it needed tightening. I got almost a full turn on mine and never had any more problems.
@@ReluctantRider Many thx !
@@ReluctantRider No it's not enough, it's good enough for a quick bleed. But the fluid degrades in the line, so you wanna flush it with some fresh oil every once a while...
The only problem I have is that the trigger comes back very slowly after I pushed it. Do you have an idea what that could be?
Weird one. Not enough pressure in the system perhaps? Spring in the lever no good?
I'm also having this problem. any ideas?
Do I need the special X1 tool? My Reverb didn't come with that, just the std screw in adapters. My (brand new) post is stuck fully out :-/
Hard to see what you're doing with both your hand blocking the plunger and bar blocking the lever.
Thanks man, really help me to bleed my reverb dropper post. short sweet effective technique.
If my xloc gets stuck, will this work? I have a rockshox rs1.
Worked a treat, thanks!
Glad it helped dude 👍
have you experienced the reverb dropper being rather difficult to push down after the bleed? when i installed the 1x lever, initially it wasn't working a all. then after a number of attempts it's finally extending at a good speed, but often i really have to push hard while sitting to initiate the drop.
do you think it has something to do with the bleed?
Not sure mate. I didn't have this issue. Did you fill the lines properly before the bleed?
i hope so! the fact is that it's working ok now and the speed coming up is fine, which i think is more important. so i'm basically afraid to touch it again since it took me about 4 bleed attempts to get it working. if it seizes up eventually i will have to though....
great channel btw!
Probably a kinked hose in the frame
The intro is so awesome mate 😂😂
Thanks buddy!
Got one works great but remote button is to stiff. My thumb hurts any ideas?
Maybe too much pressure in the post?
@@ReluctantRider air pressure?
Just got it new have not pumped it yet
@@ΔημητριοςΡουτσολιας yes it shouldn't really effect button stiffness but if you take your saddle off there is a valve in the top of the seat post where the charge is to pop it up. Maybe if the pressure is high the button is hard to press?
So good thanks! saved me loads of time!!! Can you do something similar to this for sram brakes?
Great Info..Thxs for the Vid..RIDE ON.
Thanks buddy!
Has it been reliable so far?
Beware of nicking the "O" ring on the top bleed connector, the Bleeding Edge Tool. There seems to be a sharp edge you need to get past to seal the bleeding edge tool "O" ring in position and it very easily nicks the ring. I've gone through 4 "O" rings trying to do the final bleed up top. The part # for the "O" ring at Ace is #61 9/32 OD x 5/32 ID, probably the wrong rubber (they may be swelling once the fluid hits it). If once the tool is set (you can feel resistance before opening the valve) you apply suction with the valve closed and bubbles come up the "O" ring is not sealing and may be nicked. Rock Shox could easily solve this by beveling the sharp edge.
Tried an ACE hardare #60 1/4" x 1/8" "O" ring with better results today.
Started to pull lots of air through the syringe. After about an hour of doing this I checked the o ring and saw that it was damaged. I think the size it 4.1mm ID x 7.3 ED. Will order quite a few of them.
Thx dude, works perfect 👌
Thanks so much !!!
Easy!!! Thanks for your video!
Well that was easy ... thx dude
Bleed it both ends. It takes minutes. You’ll waste hours pulling bubbles from the remote.
You need to pull after you turned the plunger to close it
?
Ha...full speed.... that's not full speed....you need to try a specialized command post.... it's ball bustingly quick.....😣
Alistair Chappell it's supposed to be a dropper post, not an ejector seat!
No........lol.....mine is actually playing up...cricket box needed every ride😂
Yeah, no that's not it done at all. You need to do the post at the same time.
that's why the title is how to bleed the remote.