I’ve fallen down more than one rabbit hole via TH-cam. I’ve done brake jobs, fuel injector installs, lots of home projects. But this might be the pinnacle of good “how to” TH-cam. Simple. No useless chit chat. Well done. Thanks. Keep it up!
Simple, straightforward. Thanks for making this! It confirms that I don't need to invest a ton into specialty tools that I might only use a couple of times.
Great info. I too do my own reverb servicing. I follow the rockshox videos but use wooden lolly stick to set IFP height so as not to scratch any internals, and also use the straw from a WD40 can with a syringe to set oil height. Cheers
thank you very much for this tuto . Really well done. My saddle has just been serviced for the 400 hrs and it works like new. I used a thermorectable seed of electricity to make the level of oil that works also perfectly Thank you for your time
@@cassobiker I wouldn't have tried to do it without your help. Like what it is not always useful to speak a lot to be well understood ;) PS: and if you have a tutorial to make the service of a float DPS with few tools, I'm interested
@@moimoi2454 fox float dps (as many other shocks) is pressurized by nitrogen, so you need special tools to pressurize it. it is not hard to service it, only common tools needed, but without nitrogen it is imposible to finish :(
@@cassobiker Hello friends my seatpost worked fine for a while but I have a new problem. I have a new problem: when I sit down it sinks down several centimetres (10 cm). I don't have a replacement kit anymore. Do you think I can fix the problem without changing the seals? Maybe a problem with the oil level or the IFP has moved?
Thanks for the video, and the most recent of them all. Thank you for not filling empty space with lame pirate music. I don't know why people make such a fuss about removing the oil. I just use the same syringe I use to bleed the remote, attach a 6.5 inch piece of tube (depending on your model) on the end, drop it in and suck up the oil. A lot easier than some of these other DIY hacks.
This is a great video - thanks. My ~2018 Reverb Stealth is rarely compressed but has developed a loud creak under pre-loading sag, IE, when sitting on the saddle or every slight unweighting with each pedal stroke. I have not stripped it yet but was wondering if this is a known issue - it is definitely in the Reverb and not in the frame or saddle. Varying the pressure 190-250 psi makes no difference but the creak is much less obvious in colder temperatures, below ~15^C. Other than that, it works as normal, fully locking out at arbitrary heights, with minimal sag (activation is via SRAM Force LH lever, as this is a 1-by setup - Vielo V+1).
this sound is probably from one of two sources: from dirt in bushings/brass keys; from top out plastic ring. you can try to clean bushings without opening oil system - step 2.5 is last step for you while disassembling. usually it is preety easy. if this not helps, probably there is a problem with top out ring. it is inside a part i hold at time 7:55. newer service kits contains this part. older kits contains only inner seal and topout plastic ring, but inner seal is very hard to replace.
@@cassobiker Thanks - I found my problem: My dropper collapsed last Sunday and the culprit was the lower circlip; the OEM part is vulnerable to corrosion and mine had almost completely vanished before bursting through. I only retrieved a tiny fragment. I opted to buy a 3rd party stainless steel replacement and guessed this size (30.9mm OD dropper post): Simplybearings: 1 x Stainless Internal Circlip 29mm Diameter Un-Sprung Dia 31.1mm pack of 2, £6.49 These are probably one size too big: although they fit inside at full circlip plier compression, they have a thickness of 1.1-1.2mm which did not cleanly seat in the undercut, so I flat ground it to 0.9-1.0mm with a Dremel disk and chamfered the upper surface, keeping the working face untouched and sharp. This worked perfectly on tonight's 20 mle test ride - silent, with no creaks!
@@41istair it is not only oem problem. i have seen same problem at reverb from eshop. my friend had a lot of water inside his yt capra and the retaining ring was thick as a paper
non stealth version /external routing/ is different. it is necessary to use vise clamps with 10mm hole (i have seen some on aliexpress for 15 euros or so).
Здравствуйте, мне интересно Ваше мнение, на 11:58 вы несколько раз толкание пальцем поршень синего цвета в нишу, но поршень заполняет не весь объем, и там остаётся воздух. Так вот стоит заполнять эту нишу смазкой ели густой? AEROSHELL GREASE 33.
Thank You for this guide. But I have a question. Can You make something similar to this with the A2 shifter? Mine is leaking I don't have any clue what it might be.
I have some questions. How much oil do you need for the service? Is 120ml enough? Do I really need to get all the seals? Can I still use the old ones? I'm way past the 400hrs but the reverb it has worked perfectly so far.
Thanks for the video, very useful. I have done al least 100 services on all kinds of reverbs and im having a problem with a B1 model now, it wont stay up or down, if al put preassure on it, it goes down but slowly it starts to come up again. I've tried everything and nothing seems to be working..... do you know what could it be? thanks man
i am not sure, but it sounds like some problem between proppet valve, main piston and ifp tube. some scratch or defected o ring? do you have oil leak to air chamber?
@@cassobiker yes, when I take out the ir, it comes out oil... and it seems to be oil passing through the poppet valve also (but this has happened to me in reverbs that have been storaged down)
@@juanluismontes ok. probably i know where is the problem. there is one hidden o-ring. deep inside inner tube, at air valve, but inside. it is o ring that touch top inner side of ifp tube.
Great video, thanks man. I think I need to do mine. I just bled it and also added air to 250psi. It comes up nice and quick but going down, it’s stiff like there’s some kind of friction. Do you know what would cause this?
you can put spacers at foam ring, you will reduce travel, but you will not be able to fully compress reverb, so i am not sure if you want it. if you want to reduce maximal extension, probably you will need shorter inner piston with control rod
you can try to remove bushing and use some vise clamps to unscrew it. you will destroy the seal head, but it can be replaced and it is in some newer seal kits
@@cassobiker thank you a lot for the fast and very helpful reply. I found a seal kit for only 20€ online :). The tutorial video is one of the best ones I have found so far thanks for the help Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
an A1 model is very simmilar to a2/b1. main difference is an IFP. i strongly recommend to replace old type with new one, because old type IFP makes most problems. you can buy new IFP as a spare part, it is cheap.
Hey, i did everything shown here, but my dropper goes really slow up and down. I tried bleeding it several times now in the past few hours, but it's still slow. Could it be that i did something wrong. I'm sure my IFP is set correctly. Around 51mm for my 150 B1. (I dont think one mm will make it this slow) Im worrying about the step where i pull oil to level of 191mm. Could that be the problem for slow speed?
if dropper goes slow down, probably some seal on poppet valve is broken or scratched. or one hidden seal inside upper tube. try to unpressure seatpost. if you have a lot of oil in air chamber, it is broken seal inside upper tube, if not, you have some problem vith poppet valve
@@cassobiker i just did two additional gravity bleeds and a few more bubbles came out and it got faster. I'm gonna leave it overnight and do another bleed tomorrow. I think the line got filled with air while i was working on a post. I did one little scratch on the inside, and I really hope that's not it... My wrench slipped.. 😬
@@darkomtc ah, i uderstand now. i thought your dropper move without remote push. very possibly you did not correctly step 4.11. there is tollerance only 1mm so very delicate.. gravity bleed can help but it is not good solution, dropper post may get small sag soon
usually something wrong at step 4.10-4.11. if seatpost not move. there is problem with valve. or, maybe, bad size of keys, but it is hard to mount it too
the green seal is hard to remove and also very hard to install new. if it has no leaks, i recommend to skip these steps. also you dont need to disassembly piston too. i have seen original pictured guide from sram and there was not detailed guide how to replace it. i tried it once and it was real challenge.
God damn I'm still struggling with my A2 reverb. I can't find this 11.6818.031.005 in stock anywhere. I've tried everything else but the oil keeps mixing with the air chamber after a few days.
also, if you have mixed oil with air it can be problem only in 2 places, 1st - you have bad IFP, 2nd - you have broken seal inside top tube, it is very hard to replace
@@cassobiker I actually got the kit from rockshox and I can buy it now. You say it's hard to do? I can just go at my bike shop. Do you think this will work? I'm scared of loosing anymore money on this dropper.
@@sans_2031 i really don't know, where is problem at your dropperpost. but as i wrote, it can be IFP or that one seal inside top tube. it is a seal at air valve, but inside. you can replace it with some long tools (modified whell spokes are good) and a lot of patience 😅
I’ve fallen down more than one rabbit hole via TH-cam. I’ve done brake jobs, fuel injector installs, lots of home projects. But this might be the pinnacle of good “how to” TH-cam. Simple. No useless chit chat. Well done. Thanks. Keep it up!
it is simple, because my english is not perfect :)
Best tutorial I've seen in a while. Not a word is said, but information is flowing like crazy. Great job!
i didn't say anything because i am not native english and my english is a bit... funny :D thanks.
@@cassobiker I'm not either, and I wouldn't mind hearing the accent. :D
Simple, straightforward. Thanks for making this! It confirms that I don't need to invest a ton into specialty tools that I might only use a couple of times.
Simple, cheap, very helpful video. Thank you man for sharing this on TH-cam! Good job on this one 👍🏻
Thank you for taking the time to make such a helpful, clear and concise video. It helped me out a lot.
Thanks a LOT!! This video helped me to service my Reverb B1 and now it's fully working! Absoultely clear and easy steps!
I followed your guide and used a service kit for some new parts. Like new again. Thanks for the guide.
Thanks great tutorial! Just what I needed.
Thank you. Short and helpful video.
Great info. I too do my own reverb servicing. I follow the rockshox videos but use wooden lolly stick to set IFP height so as not to scratch any internals, and also use the straw from a WD40 can with a syringe to set oil height. Cheers
is the straw long enough?
@@cassobiker Hi, yes it is inserted in a flexible pipe which fits the syringe.
BIG THANK YOU for this video tutorial appreciated very nice
Great tutorial!! Many thanks!!
Thank you, Good video. It worked!
Best tutorial for reverb.
🫶
Great video !!!
thank you very much for this tuto . Really well done. My saddle has just been serviced for the 400 hrs and it works like new.
I used a thermorectable seed of electricity to make the level of oil that works also perfectly
Thank you for your time
I'm so glad it was helpful!
@@cassobiker I wouldn't have tried to do it without your help. Like what it is not always useful to speak a lot to be well understood ;)
PS: and if you have a tutorial to make the service of a float DPS with few tools, I'm interested
@@moimoi2454 fox float dps (as many other shocks) is pressurized by nitrogen, so you need special tools to pressurize it. it is not hard to service it, only common tools needed, but without nitrogen it is imposible to finish :(
@@cassobiker Hello friends
my seatpost worked fine for a while but I have a new problem.
I have a new problem: when I sit down it sinks down several centimetres (10 cm).
I don't have a replacement kit anymore. Do you think I can fix the problem without changing the seals?
Maybe a problem with the oil level or the IFP has moved?
@@moimoi2454 probably problem with IFP seal. you have a lot of air in oil system.
Good job 👍👍😁
Thank you for saving me $150!
thanks. thats it.
Thanks for the video, and the most recent of them all. Thank you for not filling empty space with lame pirate music. I don't know why people make such a fuss about removing the oil. I just use the same syringe I use to bleed the remote, attach a 6.5 inch piece of tube (depending on your model) on the end, drop it in and suck up the oil. A lot easier than some of these other DIY hacks.
Благодарю! Всё по делу.
spasibo!
Thank you.. just 're built a really poorly working post back to perfection .
thank's a lot
This is a great video - thanks.
My ~2018 Reverb Stealth is rarely compressed but has developed a loud creak under pre-loading sag, IE, when sitting on the saddle or every slight unweighting with each pedal stroke. I have not stripped it yet but was wondering if this is a known issue - it is definitely in the Reverb and not in the frame or saddle. Varying the pressure 190-250 psi makes no difference but the creak is much less obvious in colder temperatures, below ~15^C.
Other than that, it works as normal, fully locking out at arbitrary heights, with minimal sag (activation is via SRAM Force LH lever, as this is a 1-by setup - Vielo V+1).
this sound is probably from one of two sources: from dirt in bushings/brass keys; from top out plastic ring. you can try to clean bushings without opening oil system - step 2.5 is last step for you while disassembling. usually it is preety easy. if this not helps, probably there is a problem with top out ring. it is inside a part i hold at time 7:55. newer service kits contains this part. older kits contains only inner seal and topout plastic ring, but inner seal is very hard to replace.
@@cassobiker Thanks - I found my problem: My dropper collapsed last Sunday and the culprit was the lower circlip; the OEM part is vulnerable to corrosion and mine had almost completely vanished before bursting through. I only retrieved a tiny fragment.
I opted to buy a 3rd party stainless steel replacement and guessed this size (30.9mm OD dropper post):
Simplybearings: 1 x Stainless Internal Circlip 29mm Diameter Un-Sprung Dia 31.1mm pack of 2, £6.49
These are probably one size too big: although they fit inside at full circlip plier compression, they have a thickness of 1.1-1.2mm which did not cleanly seat in the undercut, so I flat ground it to 0.9-1.0mm with a Dremel disk and chamfered the upper surface, keeping the working face untouched and sharp.
This worked perfectly on tonight's 20 mle test ride - silent, with no creaks!
@@41istair it is not only oem problem. i have seen same problem at reverb from eshop. my friend had a lot of water inside his yt capra and the retaining ring was thick as a paper
great tutorial I hope it will help me too, I have to service my dropper because it broke and doesn't work
if you have used it more than 2 seasons, i recommend to replace seals. at least IFP has lifetime only about 2-3 seasons.
Why dont you recomend replace the green seal?
People give the reverb a hard time… but I rebuild mine every 2 years with just new oil, and it works great until the next rebuild.
usually, i rebuild at about 5mm sag. for me, reverbs are great seatposts, but remote system is weakest part.
Hello, I have the A2 model whith the hose remote control under the seat post, and on other videos it need a couple of special tool to feel the oil
non stealth version /external routing/ is different. it is necessary to use vise clamps with 10mm hole (i have seen some on aliexpress for 15 euros or so).
Здравствуйте, мне интересно Ваше мнение, на 11:58 вы несколько раз толкание пальцем поршень синего цвета в нишу, но поршень заполняет не весь объем, и там остаётся воздух. Так вот стоит заполнять эту нишу смазкой ели густой? AEROSHELL GREASE 33.
Thank You for this guide. But I have a question. Can You make something similar to this with the A2 shifter? Mine is leaking I don't have any clue what it might be.
shifter? do you mean a reverb button at handlebar?
Life’s better with sound
i am not native english, so i didn't want to make funny video with my english 😅
I have some questions. How much oil do you need for the service? Is 120ml enough? Do I really need to get all the seals? Can I still use the old ones? I'm way past the 400hrs but the reverb it has worked perfectly so far.
120ml is enough (maybe for 2 services). usually only new IFP is required to change.
Thanks for the video, very useful. I have done al least 100 services on all kinds of reverbs and im having a problem with a B1 model now, it wont stay up or down, if al put preassure on it, it goes down but slowly it starts to come up again. I've tried everything and nothing seems to be working..... do you know what could it be? thanks man
i am not sure, but it sounds like some problem between proppet valve, main piston and ifp tube. some scratch or defected o ring? do you have oil leak to air chamber?
@@cassobiker yes, when I take out the ir, it comes out oil... and it seems to be oil passing through the poppet valve also (but this has happened to me in reverbs that have been storaged down)
@@juanluismontes ok. probably i know where is the problem. there is one hidden o-ring. deep inside inner tube, at air valve, but inside. it is o ring that touch top inner side of ifp tube.
Супер, 😉 nice!
спасибо!
Great video, thanks man. I think I need to do mine. I just bled it and also added air to 250psi.
It comes up nice and quick but going down, it’s stiff like there’s some kind of friction.
Do you know what would cause this?
it's not easy to diagnostic it by chat, but it is probably some problem with bushings or keys
Thanks do you think a full service would fix it?
@@1927bluesrob very probably yes. only problem can be if sockets for keys are very worn out.
@@cassobiker thanks again, greatly appreciated. I can’t find a 400 hour service kit for the A2, only 200 hour kit. Which did you use?
@@1927bluesrob there is no 400h for A2. you need to service it every 200h (at least sram said it 😂)
do you think you can put a shim inside to limit the travel upwards to say 80mm on a 100mm post?
you can put spacers at foam ring, you will reduce travel, but you will not be able to fully compress reverb, so i am not sure if you want it. if you want to reduce maximal extension, probably you will need shorter inner piston with control rod
Is there a known ifp level and oil level adjustment for A1 model??
a1 is a same as a2: th-cam.com/video/EULh9sJz_AY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=a91poFEUl6IHxaOi
My reverb is model b1. Where should I pour the oil? In internal tube or both inner and outer tubes should be filled with oil? Please inform me🙏
into both. there is also hole in the internal tube, so oil will go to both
@@cassobiker thanks so much dude.
5:19 i can’t get that off I already scratched the complete thing with my tongs do you have any tips ?
you can try to remove bushing and use some vise clamps to unscrew it. you will destroy the seal head, but it can be replaced and it is in some newer seal kits
@@cassobiker thank you a lot for the fast and very helpful reply. I found a seal kit for only 20€ online :). The tutorial video is one of the best ones I have found so far thanks for the help
Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
How does this tutorial differ for an A1 model? Will this video be helpful?
an A1 model is very simmilar to a2/b1. main difference is an IFP. i strongly recommend to replace old type with new one, because old type IFP makes most problems. you can buy new IFP as a spare part, it is cheap.
Hey, i did everything shown here, but my dropper goes really slow up and down.
I tried bleeding it several times now in the past few hours, but it's still slow.
Could it be that i did something wrong. I'm sure my IFP is set correctly. Around 51mm for my 150 B1. (I dont think one mm will make it this slow)
Im worrying about the step where i pull oil to level of 191mm. Could that be the problem for slow speed?
if dropper goes slow down, probably some seal on poppet valve is broken or scratched. or one hidden seal inside upper tube. try to unpressure seatpost. if you have a lot of oil in air chamber, it is broken seal inside upper tube, if not, you have some problem vith poppet valve
@@cassobiker i just did two additional gravity bleeds and a few more bubbles came out and it got faster. I'm gonna leave it overnight and do another bleed tomorrow. I think the line got filled with air while i was working on a post.
I did one little scratch on the inside, and I really hope that's not it... My wrench slipped.. 😬
@@darkomtc ah, i uderstand now. i thought your dropper move without remote push. very possibly you did not correctly step 4.11. there is tollerance only 1mm so very delicate.. gravity bleed can help but it is not good solution, dropper post may get small sag soon
I just did the whole process on a B1 and is not moving...any advice?? Thanks!
usually something wrong at step 4.10-4.11. if seatpost not move. there is problem with valve. or, maybe, bad size of keys, but it is hard to mount it too
Donde recomiendas adquirir el kit de juntas de sustitucion? Gracias
i usually order it from bike24 (german eshop)
Do you maybe know if I can use A1 (silver) remote on Stealth B1 (black)?
hello. remotes are compatibile. but b1 may have connectamajig connector on hose, so you have to unscrew remotes from hose.
@@cassobiker Yes, I was planning to do just that, even though it isn't connectamajig. Thank you for fast reply!
You are recommending to keep the green seal when refurbishing all the o-rings and service parts.....why is this ?
the green seal is hard to remove and also very hard to install new. if it has no leaks, i recommend to skip these steps. also you dont need to disassembly piston too. i have seen original pictured guide from sram and there was not detailed guide how to replace it. i tried it once and it was real challenge.
th-cam.com/video/EULh9sJz_AY/w-d-xo.html 9:20 as you can see, they had problem to install it too.
Hi, do you have a link where you can buy the service kit?
www.bike24.com/p2238604.html
sorry out of stock :/
God damn I'm still struggling with my A2 reverb. I can't find this 11.6818.031.005 in stock anywhere. I've tried everything else but the oil keeps mixing with the air chamber after a few days.
idk where are you from, but you can try bikeinn, bike24, bikediscount
also, if you have mixed oil with air it can be problem only in 2 places, 1st - you have bad IFP, 2nd - you have broken seal inside top tube, it is very hard to replace
@@cassobiker I actually got the kit from rockshox and I can buy it now. You say it's hard to do? I can just go at my bike shop. Do you think this will work? I'm scared of loosing anymore money on this dropper.
@@sans_2031 i really don't know, where is problem at your dropperpost. but as i wrote, it can be IFP or that one seal inside top tube. it is a seal at air valve, but inside. you can replace it with some long tools (modified whell spokes are good) and a lot of patience 😅
@@sans_2031 in my guide, at step 4.5 i am installing the tube ton that problematic seal. this seal.is not mentioned in any official sram guide
Buy a brush for the Butter. It's terrible to look at 🤬
i use invisible gloves (pr 88). also i usually use brush, but this one, it was for recording outside my workroom