If you have a C1 it can be vented. It's maddeningly hard to get info other than the official rockshox "reverb c1 vent" video. But you "need" their special tool. The secret is the thing under the seat labeled "vent" is actually just a shraeder valve cap. It's the cap itself that needs to be pressed down to do the procedure; this can be done using an undersized (eg, 8mm) socket on a wrench, and following the steps RockShox gives. (push vent down while seatpost is extended AND holding the seatpost to prevent it from dropping - once in vent position, push seatpost down, hold 2sec, let go of vent position, let go of seatpost). FWIW the schrader cap is 9mm if you need to unscrew it. Rockshox says 300psi but mine was at 200 and still works fine so I'm not going to risk overpressuring it. Bike only has 350 miles on it so I highly suspect it'll sag again even sooner next time, and eventually I'll have to junk it. But for now, this works.
You buy a One Up or PNW dropper post. Same price as the service. Or you the go through the headache of buying special tools, fluids , then meticulously doing the service, a skill not applicable to another dropper post.
Thanks. How many hours of use can you expect before rebuilding a Reverb? 50? I've had (3) B1 posts. I've only bought one ($450??), the other two were spec'ed on the bike. But they all failed.
Hey Chris- the frustration is reasonable considering how many of these posts are out there (last I heard, over 800,000!) and how many start to sag within a year or less. Out of the roughly 140 I've rebuilt, I've had great luck with all the Reverbs I've serviced except for one, and it failed in a very non-standard way. None have come back within a year. They should last at least 200 hours before needing a service, but that number varies based on the model/generation.
Way better. Longer service life, faster, easier actuation. But the vent valve only seems to be a short term fix for bubbles in the oil. Once you really get the squish, the only way to fix it is with a rebuild.
Thanks for the clarification! I too, have seen it all over TH-cam that bleeding will fix the "squish." But as I tell everyone, regardless of what we are watching here, there are very few people that truly know and understand what they are trying to video. At the end of the day, you are one of the few that can both do the job, understand and then explain it to others... THANK YOU for doing just that!!
Hi,. your video just clarified why my weekend sucked so bad. I think I bled my Reverb A2 possibly a hundred times since last Thursday. It shoots up without a problem. As soon as I sit on the seat, it goes all the way down. I have hours and hours and hours and a few more hours into this already. I refuse to send it to Rock Shox at this point for overhaul. Can you recommend how to properly bleed the post so that I can stop tinkering and go back to riding?
Hey Alex- The post itself most likely needs a rebuild; there isn't really any way to "bleed" the post. I have a video coming out soon that isn't so much a how-to, it's more of a "how I do" with a running explanation, but your best bet would be to go to the Rockshox website and check out the Reverb rebuild service manual. It lists all the tools you'll need as well as oil and specific grease.
I Have a C1 that gets The SQUISH and I have to re set it almost every ride ,any thoughts? As you well know every body tells me to bleed the actuator. Drives me nuts, so many people cant seem to understand it is 2 separate systems
I have the same problem and obviously i bled it thinking that'll fix the issue... I've had my reverb for a while now and I'm debating whether I should spend money rebuilding it (100$ + parts at LBS) or just get a new dropper ? It seems to me the mechanical ones that use the shifting cable are easier to service and repair, i just need something reliable, any recommendations ? cheers
How long is "a while"? They need to be serviced at least once a year, just like any other suspension component. Keep in mind, any brand of dropper, regardless of who makes it or how it's actuated, will need service. You could buy any other brand, and at some point, you'll need to fix it. You could just keep buying new posts every time they fail, but that's like buying new wheels every time you break a spoke... Every single reverb that i've rebuilt has been solid for more than a year. There are bad builds from the factory, it happens. I would rebuild it.
Thank you for clarifying that the trigger mechanism and the actual dropper mechanism are different and how a bleed in the button hydraulic system will not fix the sag.... BUT I am still trying to find out how to bleed post itself.. my dropper is less than a year old so I am hoping to avoid a rebuild if I can.... It a rebuild the only way?
There isn't a way to "bleed" the post; there's really only a rebuild. Since air in the oil is basically all the way inside the post, you can't really bleed it.
Thanks for the video Greg I had no idea how that worked. I have this exact problem with my post which is roughly 4 months old. Does this sound like a faulty part or should I be on the market for a different post?
Probably needs a rebuild. 4 months is premature for it to have squish, but they base a rebuild on hours ridden, not time owned. Some people ride a ton in 4 months! Also, have you ever lifted the bike by the seat when the post was down? That can cause a vacuum on the inside, pulling air into the oil.
Hello! I may be a bit late.. I have a rockshox reverb dropper post 2015 model and I find it very very hard to press down on the lever to the point that i use my palm to press down since my thumb hurts after pressing it downward....do u know the cause as to why this happens?
@@ButterSuspension I think it is kinked since it is internally routed... my frame is a 15 santa cruz bronson..the thing that makes it hardes is that it is so hard to find aftermarket levers since reverb is hydraulic... i also live in the PH and aftermarket hydraulic levers are really difficult to source
I got lucky and my Reverb was just missing pressure. 180 instead of 250 😅 since service costs 120 euro and a new one costs 160 euro, I feel like the service cost is s joke. I'd rather sell the old one if it ever needs service
@@aleks2194 those are both awesome products, but they also both need annual service. I've rebuilt a bunch of the Fox Transfers, but two of them were ignored for so long, they both were basically destroyed from lack of maintenance. I've rebuilt over 100 Reverbs, only had one I couldn't fix.
Love all your reverb videos i learned a lot from you your youtube chanell is very helpfull I am having an issue with my reverb a2 After a full rebuild i am trying to pump air and the pin inside the valve core is Sinking me and some oil come out from the valve(tryaed to replace the valve core as well) I took it apart again and did the rebuild from the start and it just happened again so frustrating Please greg please help me out here
@@ButterSuspension greg apparently my high pressure pump was defective and caused a problam After replaceing it everything was good Thanks again this is my third or fourth self rebuild thanks to you
Nice, so if bleeding is especially to remove air from the system but your saying it's only the hose its clearing air out of, and not the actual cylinder... than how does a rebuild remove the air? Sorry if I sound stupid but I was curious...do you have another video on the rebuild and why it works? I have an A2 I believe, black button and doesn't say rockshox on the top of post...was considering rebuilding with the WolfTooth sustain switch upgrade and an A2 service kit... I did the bleed and yea no help...also I think my switch is broken, it has play unfortunately
Not a dumb question! You can only bleed the hose; if there's air inside the oil chamber of the post then the whole post needs to be rebuilt. If they had built in a bleed function on these posts, you could bleed them in addition to the hose, but... only the newest generation has a bleed-off function called "vent valve". The Rockshox website has a pretty good manual on how to rebuild their posts, but I might still do a how to video at some point since there are so many of these out in the world. I had a Wolf Tooth cable kit on my last Reverb, it worked great. But, yeah, it doesn't do anything for a post that needs a rebuild.
@@Klips005 from a consumers point of view, I can see how that may seem like the easiest answer. But these are endlessly rebuildable, they only take me about 30 minutes to fix, and every one I've rebuilt has been solid for over a year. Also, there are literally over a million Reverbs on the market; with numbers that high there's bound to be some issues.
@@DaveOcto I get it, but if they're rebuilt correctly they work well for many seasons. Also, the biggest issue I find is when people lift the bike by the seat when the post is dropped. This can cause a vacuum inside, pulling air into the oil, causing the squish.
If they're both maintained and built properly, they both work great. I've seen more actually broken KS posts come through that I couldn't fix compared to Reverbs. 🤷
You are correct. This video is not about the solution, it's about understanding why bleeding doesn't fix the squish. Rebuild video coming soon! Also, this was an editing experiment; if you notice my facial hair, it changes through the video. We filmed this in 4 parts, in reverse order, then put the parts together in the correct order. Since I was speaking without a script, in the wrong order, it sounds a little repetitive.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.920 | 3 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KwiW2M_kAg4/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm honestly surprised that no one noticed the beard...
I noticed
I noticed, i had to jump back to the beginning to makes sure it was my eyes deceiving me ? :)
If you have a C1 it can be vented. It's maddeningly hard to get info other than the official rockshox "reverb c1 vent" video. But you "need" their special tool. The secret is the thing under the seat labeled "vent" is actually just a shraeder valve cap. It's the cap itself that needs to be pressed down to do the procedure; this can be done using an undersized (eg, 8mm) socket on a wrench, and following the steps RockShox gives. (push vent down while seatpost is extended AND holding the seatpost to prevent it from dropping - once in vent position, push seatpost down, hold 2sec, let go of vent position, let go of seatpost). FWIW the schrader cap is 9mm if you need to unscrew it. Rockshox says 300psi but mine was at 200 and still works fine so I'm not going to risk overpressuring it.
Bike only has 350 miles on it so I highly suspect it'll sag again even sooner next time, and eventually I'll have to junk it. But for now, this works.
My reverb is stuck up so I will try this tonight
Great info Greg! Thanks for sharing and clearing it up as most people are either misinformed or have no idea how it works.
Thanks Chris!
dude, you sound like you ate something really spicy before filming this lmao
We did... Flaming Hot Cheetos
SO .... HOW DO WE FIX THE SQUISH?
Check out my other Reverb video, it's a full rebuild, solves the squish!
You buy a One Up or PNW dropper post. Same price as the service. Or you the go through the headache of buying special tools, fluids , then meticulously doing the service, a skill not applicable to another dropper post.
Thanks. How many hours of use can you expect before rebuilding a Reverb? 50? I've had (3) B1 posts. I've only bought one ($450??), the other two were spec'ed on the bike. But they all failed.
Hey Chris- the frustration is reasonable considering how many of these posts are out there (last I heard, over 800,000!) and how many start to sag within a year or less. Out of the roughly 140 I've rebuilt, I've had great luck with all the Reverbs I've serviced except for one, and it failed in a very non-standard way. None have come back within a year. They should last at least 200 hours before needing a service, but that number varies based on the model/generation.
Any comments on the C1 version? Any better? Air bleed valve work well?
Way better. Longer service life, faster, easier actuation. But the vent valve only seems to be a short term fix for bubbles in the oil. Once you really get the squish, the only way to fix it is with a rebuild.
Thanks for the clarification! I too, have seen it all over TH-cam that bleeding will fix the "squish." But as I tell everyone, regardless of what we are watching here, there are very few people that truly know and understand what they are trying to video. At the end of the day, you are one of the few that can both do the job, understand and then explain it to others... THANK YOU for doing just that!!
a lot to learn from your contents. awesome and informative to watch
Thanks!
Hi,. your video just clarified why my weekend sucked so bad. I think I bled my Reverb A2 possibly a hundred times since last Thursday. It shoots up without a problem. As soon as I sit on the seat, it goes all the way down. I have hours and hours and hours and a few more hours into this already. I refuse to send it to Rock Shox at this point for overhaul. Can you recommend how to properly bleed the post so that I can stop tinkering and go back to riding?
Hey Alex-
The post itself most likely needs a rebuild; there isn't really any way to "bleed" the post. I have a video coming out soon that isn't so much a how-to, it's more of a "how I do" with a running explanation, but your best bet would be to go to the Rockshox website and check out the Reverb rebuild service manual. It lists all the tools you'll need as well as oil and specific grease.
@@ButterSuspension Thanks so much Greg, I sent a letter to your websitesite under the quote tab.
Then, how do we remove the air inside the post
I have a separate video on how to rebuild a Reverb, this was just a fun editing project...check the beard!
Thanks for the great explanation.
You're welcome!
I Have a C1 that gets The SQUISH and I have to re set it almost every ride ,any thoughts?
As you well know every body tells me to bleed the actuator. Drives me nuts, so many people cant seem to understand it is 2 separate systems
It needs a rebuild. Even with the vent valve, you can't get every bubble out of the oil chamber, only a full rebuild takes care of that.
@@ButterSuspension Darn! I have the same problem. How much do you charge?
I have the same problem and obviously i bled it thinking that'll fix the issue... I've had my reverb for a while now and I'm debating whether I should spend money rebuilding it (100$ + parts at LBS) or just get a new dropper ? It seems to me the mechanical ones that use the shifting cable are easier to service and repair, i just need something reliable, any recommendations ? cheers
How long is "a while"? They need to be serviced at least once a year, just like any other suspension component.
Keep in mind, any brand of dropper, regardless of who makes it or how it's actuated, will need service. You could buy any other brand, and at some point, you'll need to fix it. You could just keep buying new posts every time they fail, but that's like buying new wheels every time you break a spoke...
Every single reverb that i've rebuilt has been solid for more than a year. There are bad builds from the factory, it happens. I would rebuild it.
Thank you for clarifying that the trigger mechanism and the actual dropper mechanism are different and how a bleed in the button hydraulic system will not fix the sag.... BUT I am still trying to find out how to bleed post itself.. my dropper is less than a year old so I am hoping to avoid a rebuild if I can.... It a rebuild the only way?
There isn't a way to "bleed" the post; there's really only a rebuild. Since air in the oil is basically all the way inside the post, you can't really bleed it.
Thanks for the video Greg I had no idea how that worked. I have this exact problem with my post which is roughly 4 months old. Does this sound like a faulty part or should I be on the market for a different post?
Probably needs a rebuild. 4 months is premature for it to have squish, but they base a rebuild on hours ridden, not time owned. Some people ride a ton in 4 months! Also, have you ever lifted the bike by the seat when the post was down? That can cause a vacuum on the inside, pulling air into the oil.
Hello! I may be a bit late.. I have a rockshox reverb dropper post 2015 model and I find it very very hard to press down on the lever to the point that i use my palm to press down since my thumb hurts after pressing it downward....do u know the cause as to why this happens?
Hey Raphael- if it's an internally routed hose (Reverb stealth) I would look to see if the hose is kinked inside the frame.
@@ButterSuspension I think it is kinked since it is internally routed... my frame is a 15 santa cruz bronson..the thing that makes it hardes is that it is so hard to find aftermarket levers since reverb is hydraulic... i also live in the PH and aftermarket hydraulic levers are really difficult to source
may i know where i can send a vid of my dropper?
@@raphaelclarkchristianraran7764 you can send a service request through the website, www.buttersuspension.com
I got lucky and my Reverb was just missing pressure. 180 instead of 250 😅 since service costs 120 euro and a new one costs 160 euro, I feel like the service cost is s joke. I'd rather sell the old one if it ever needs service
Mine sinks half way after I've sat on it for couple of minutes. Does it need bleeding or is it shot?
Hey Andy- any squish means air in the oil that holds you up. Not shot, just need a rebuild.
nice info, but where is the solution? i still have a squishy post
Check my other Reverb video, full rebuild!
Do you have a solution to the 1 inch squish?
Hey Jacob- yeah, Reverbs with the sag need to be rebuilt. Once air gets in the oil, the only way to really fix that is a full service.
Save up for a fox transfer or bike yoke revive
@@aleks2194 those are both awesome products, but they also both need annual service. I've rebuilt a bunch of the Fox Transfers, but two of them were ignored for so long, they both were basically destroyed from lack of maintenance. I've rebuilt over 100 Reverbs, only had one I couldn't fix.
th-cam.com/video/ttWyjHPf02E/w-d-xo.html
Love all your reverb videos i learned a lot from you your youtube chanell is very helpfull
I am having an issue with my reverb a2
After a full rebuild i am trying to pump air and the pin inside the valve core is Sinking me and some oil come out from the valve(tryaed to replace the valve core as well)
I took it apart again and did the rebuild from the start and it just happened again so frustrating
Please greg please help me out here
Sinking? Like the core is threading in too far?
@@ButterSuspension pushing in after i am trying to pump it
Maybe my high pressure pump is bad?
@@ButterSuspension greg apparently my high pressure pump was defective and caused a problam
After replaceing it everything was good
Thanks again this is my third or fourth self rebuild thanks to you
Nice, so if bleeding is especially to remove air from the system but your saying it's only the hose its clearing air out of, and not the actual cylinder... than how does a rebuild remove the air? Sorry if I sound stupid but I was curious...do you have another video on the rebuild and why it works?
I have an A2 I believe, black button and doesn't say rockshox on the top of post...was considering rebuilding with the WolfTooth sustain switch upgrade and an A2 service kit...
I did the bleed and yea no help...also I think my switch is broken, it has play unfortunately
Not a dumb question! You can only bleed the hose; if there's air inside the oil chamber of the post then the whole post needs to be rebuilt. If they had built in a bleed function on these posts, you could bleed them in addition to the hose, but... only the newest generation has a bleed-off function called "vent valve".
The Rockshox website has a pretty good manual on how to rebuild their posts, but I might still do a how to video at some point since there are so many of these out in the world.
I had a Wolf Tooth cable kit on my last Reverb, it worked great. But, yeah, it doesn't do anything for a post that needs a rebuild.
@@ButterSuspension aahhh okk ! Yea I feel like this post isn't worth all the hassle...so many other better alternatives out there now. THanks!
@@Klips005 from a consumers point of view, I can see how that may seem like the easiest answer. But these are endlessly rebuildable, they only take me about 30 minutes to fix, and every one I've rebuilt has been solid for over a year. Also, there are literally over a million Reverbs on the market; with numbers that high there's bound to be some issues.
happy to say the new c1 and axs fixes this issue
Can you do one for rock shox pike solo air with damper service. thanks and congratulations
Maybe someday...so many forks!
Do you have a video on how to bleed the post please?
th-cam.com/video/SIYd1hz87Hw/w-d-xo.html
well what does take care of the issue? you seem to not address the problem but tell us what doesnt help!!
It's even listed on the description of the video but here you go: th-cam.com/video/6wAxwsiOiDM/w-d-xo.html
I have another video that shows a complete rebuild, check it out here: th-cam.com/video/6wAxwsiOiDM/w-d-xo.html
how did ur beard grow so fast
I eats me spinach! Or...editing.
It would have been helpful if you went over how to actually fix the squishy post.
This was a silly video for fun (check the beard), I have a full rebuild video as well that addresses how to fix the issue.
@@ButterSuspension Sweet! Thx bud. I'll check it out. I'm about to chuck this reverb. Constant problems,.
@@DaveOcto I get it, but if they're rebuilt correctly they work well for many seasons.
Also, the biggest issue I find is when people lift the bike by the seat when the post is dropped. This can cause a vacuum inside, pulling air into the oil, causing the squish.
awesome video, thank you looking forward for more!
Can I modify the travel to make 150 out of 175 ?
There's probably a way to modify the post with a spacer internally but no "official" way to limit travel.
OMG first time I noticed was where was the beard? Then halfway thru half beard and then full beard??? All in one video? Hahaha...
Hahaha so did I. I had to watch again to listen to what he talking about lol
dammit gregg send me a hat
also you need to bleed your beard, its got 1" sag at times too :(
Mebbe a jim hat?
This man grew a beard while filming this
Yeah my cable operated reverb is squishy
This is the ultimate example of why bleeding doesn't do anything for the squish! Thanks Aleksander!
Hahaha!!!
Reverbs are BS, KindShock are so much better, I'll never have a Reverb again
If they're both maintained and built properly, they both work great. I've seen more actually broken KS posts come through that I couldn't fix compared to Reverbs. 🤷
Jesus you just said the same thing over and over again for 3 mins, without an actual solution.
You are correct. This video is not about the solution, it's about understanding why bleeding doesn't fix the squish. Rebuild video coming soon!
Also, this was an editing experiment; if you notice my facial hair, it changes through the video. We filmed this in 4 parts, in reverse order, then put the parts together in the correct order. Since I was speaking without a script, in the wrong order, it sounds a little repetitive.
Lip smack fest I’m out
Smooches!
Quit smacking your lips when you talk.
It's my tongue, not my lips. Thanks for watching!
Well that didn’t help