Thank you so much! Dealership charged me for a new battery and body control module. It still didn’t fix the issue, but this video made me realize my fuse is broken. Would’ve probably gotten a new car if it weren’t for you making this video!
I believe my videos have help others to fix their problems and save some money. That’s what I want to accomplish on my TH-cam channel. It will be a shame to take all of this knowledge with me when I’m gone.
Thank you for this video, the part 782-1144 from NAPA Canada cost 14.46$ my garage changed it in less then 10 minutes. Having the part here I cannot see that it’s broken but the truck no longer has the problem. Time will tell but I'm confident that was the problem. Thank you again.
I try my best. I hope this is helpful for you. I went to UTI in Houston and that School helped me to understand about electronics, computers and diagrams
Thank you very much for your compliments. I do my best to teach anyone that wants to learn. Thank you for watching like my videos and subscribe it really helps
My man!! You saved me soooo much headache. This was exactly what I needed to fix my vehicle. Could not find anything helpful online. I was trying everything. Not sure how I stumbled on your video but thank you so much for helping us out!!
? Someone told me you have to keep power to the computer if I changed mine but I just think there trying to make a healthy dollar.Mine just started running sluggish and it's saying my batteries low once in awhile when I have the ignition on acc .There's no way the person told me this was right ain't no different then unhooking the battery right. I know not to have current when I do it but is it gonna cause me to have to get it flashed to run right again .What's your opion?
Thanks so much for this helpful video. This solved my issue. I watched a bunch of similar videos on TH-cam but yours was by far the best as it was detailed and right to the point and even a bonus of fuse part number. Thanks again
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have a 2015 Escape that did the same thing. I bought the fuse and changed it and it solved my problem! Thank you for showing the part number as well, this made things much easier!!
I’m having this issue currently with my 2017 ford escape. I tested the battery alternator and starter and everything was great. I’m going to try this this evening, I’m hoping everything will work just fine. Thank you for this.
Sounds like the same issue. Good luck with your project and let me know the outcome. I’m kind of curious about it Thank you for watching, like and subscribe it helps
Would you happen to know if the fuse positioning on the 2017 is the same as the one above? I forgot to mention that I also have a check engine light on that read small leak in fuel pump! So I really believe this may fix it lol
I went to get the fuse replaced and it started up just fine afterward buuut after putting gas in it, had trouble starting up. Is my fuse location the same in my 1.5L turbo as the 2.0L turbo that you worked on in the video? Because I had it replaced but it didn’t fix the issue
@@chelseacrawford7721 that means the evap purge solenoid is stuck open. All of the fumes went into your intake and it flooded the engine with fumes from the tank
Ty Soo much for doing this video!! We did the test and it showed the same results you got. So i got a fuse from my local NAPA and bam.. Its up and going again!!
Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6. My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start. Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home. Watched many videos. Checked: battery-it was ok, 1 year old Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good. Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on. With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again. Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found. Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side. Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start. Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured. Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.) He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board. I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems. I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode. Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems. Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.
I’m not even getting a code, the dealership made me pay for diagnostics, battery replacement and wires , $800 later and it’s still happening. Every time I take it, it starts for them. Since December I’ve been dealing with this, today, again it won’t start. I’m about to go wiggle wires in the area above just to see if I can get it to start because I’m broke from Uber every time it happens, they have it for a week or two and I got to get to work. They did the BCM update for the recall and fixed all the other recalls, I had keys reprogrammed, and in November the transmission was rebuilt. I’m like 8k in the hole by now🤦♀️
Just found your vid. Have a 2014 eecape. Every once in a while it won't start has a clicking noise. I jump start it and it may work for a month or a week. I have checked the battery and charging system all ok. It originally happened one time in 6 months. But ut is happening more often now. My escape has the bigger Ecoboost. Thank you
Thanks for the video, I have a 2015 Ford escape SE, does not have the turbo, when I turn the key a good part of the time it turns over a few times and starts like it should, and then sometimes it’ll turn over several times before it starts Like it’s not getting enough pre-ignition or pre-fuel or whatever the terminology is, I am wondering if I have the same issue? Sometimes the battery would drain down because it was turning over so much, and the battery was old and I replaced it, but it seems to be doing the same thing, and the starter sounds fine, just not quite sure if I’m having the same problem, what do you think? thanks
We just bought a 2014 yesterday I think I have the same problem I push the button nothing is like the battery is dead. I wondering if the hood and wiggled it and I hear that same clicking noise I'm going to try to change the fuse this is a great video. Thanks for your help.
@@antonioaguirre6166 I like & unsubscribe both thanks again. When you hit the push button on the car, everything was dead. Besides the radio and lights correct no windows up or down or nothing no response didn't recognize key fob. I'm working now I'm going to work on it when I get home.
@@arthurgreen9149 sounds like the same problem. Sometimes when it started I could drive for a few block and the car would just died on me like the battery drained out. That was another symptom I forgot to point out.
Im having the same issues with my 2014 escape. Battery, alternator & starter all testing fine. Just randomly doesn’t start and this week does while i was driving. I’m hoping this is the issue 🙏🏻
Antonio this is a great video many thanks, quick question for you. I do have continuity in all mega fuses but no 12v power top and bottom, what can be the cause? you think that the main 150A fuse is out? thanks
you have to be on direct current ( V with the dotted line) V with the wave line means alternating current. you will see a voltage drop when there is a high resistance. the 12v will drop to less than 12v. and if you have an open it will show 0 voltage. negative lead goes to the ground you can tap on the battery or any good know ground. and your red lead goes to the end of component that you are testing. and don't worry about shorting out the multimeter is very safe even if you used it wrong. do not use a test light in this type of vehicles.
What is the cause of this fuse going out? I have a 2019 escape 2.0 ecoboost and while I don’t have this issue I’m wondering if it’s still an issue on the 2019. The 2019 is the last year of this body style before they went to the new body style.
Ok. I don’t have a starting issue but I have some weird electrical things happening like charge port turning off, interior climate lights sometimes turning off, touch to unlock sometimes not working when it’s wet outside, intermittent bucking under load. I have no codes and my battery tests good when off and when running. I monitored live data and noticed on the control module voltage sometimes it bounces around a lot and even spikes to 50V and drops to 0.007V, each for a second. And the engine coolant temperature also sometimes spikes to 150C for a second so it seems there is some ground issue or something. I’m going to check these fuses. Do you think it’s possible for me to have an issue with this 50A fuse that’s not causing me starting issues but is causing some of the other things I mentioned which are probably all controlled by the body control module?
Gonna have to try this my friend has a 2014 that does nothing, it was driving/cranking with lights flashing jerky driving etc...its be sitting for a year got a new battery, just reading no key detected , i can get it to power up, but it wont start just says engine fault, code reader will not connect either🧐🤔😅
I'm having an issue getting my 2019 ford escape to start. I would notice before, it would turn over a couple times before starting up, but always started up. It was colder last night and woke up to the car not turning over at all. I am going to switch out the battery or have it tested first, but would like to know if your video would also help with new models that aren't starting up.
what size engine do you have. it would help to have a little more information about the car. you can always send me your vin number or license plate number and pull the information. if it was turning over slowly most likely your starter is going out. it's a good idea to have your battery fully charged, that is the first step, and if that does not work the try to get your starter tested
@@antonioaguirre6166 And yes, it would turn over slowly, sometimes would take a second time to fully crank. Now it will just click for the most part, and once in every 10 tries, it will sound like it wants to turn over, but does not and goes dead.
I see. Yes, usually when the cold weather comes around the batteries can go bad. If you battery is over five years old you might have to consider replacing it. Take it to get tested firs, if it test ok and gets full charged try to start the car if That don’t do it then look at The starter.
@@antonioaguirre6166 thank you. $250 later and new battery we are running again. One thing I notice is the check engine light is now on. I guess I should have that checked out.
You are clearly a genius. I'm having the exact same problem on a 2016 ford escape. No check engine light, randomly stalls, runs fine some time. Do you have the wiring diagram from the high voltage junction box to the various components. I would really appreciate it.
Hi I have a ford escape 2014 with a physical key. When I turn it and try pressing the gas it clicks for a while then the lights on everything come one along with the radio but it says key fob not detected on the dash and still no start..so is it the key fob even though it’s a physical key? Or should I replace the battery or the fuses?
Do you have another key that you can try? If the vehicle can not detect the key it will disable the engine from starting. This a little different then the problem I had. I will suggest getting a lock smith first and try to program your key first.
I have a Ford Escape 2016, and when I crank up the car, it says 4WD off, and Hill starts disabled. As of late, I have had to jumpstart my car every other day since last Saturday morning. This car is so stressful because the labor on it is so costly. I mean you literally have to remove the transmission just to change the battery. Furthermore, I got Advance Auto to check the battery it's fine. I recently bought a new one.
I just recently replaced that same exact fuse and a couple weeks later it didn’t want to start. What else can it be? Starter is new, alternator and battery work
I get all of my diagrams from ALLDATA. I have been using all data since I was in automotive school, back in 2013. That is what I learned to used. I know there is another program call Adentifix at a lower price similar to ALLDATA. I was not able to use it cuz I'm not used to it. but you can try
It's been almost a week that my Skip 2014 doesn't turn on with one press of the start button, and it's the second and third presses, I also tested with a new battery, but it still doesn't turn on with one press of the start button, is the problem with the starter or in fuses?
to be honest with I won't know exactly the cause of the problem till the car has been diagnosed. on this video it was the fuse, but you could have something different going on.
I’m having an intermittent no start issue on a 2015 escape. But I’m getting a park aid fault service required message on the dash when this no start issue shows it’s face. Other times it will start and run like nothing is wrong. Did you happen to see this same message on the dash when your escape was not starting? Thanks in advance!!
Nope it didn’t show any messages. Sometimes it will run fine and later died on me like the alternator or battery was bad. But that’s because the body control module was loosing power
I am having this issue with my car. It’s a 2013 ford escape se. I was driving and it said “engine fault” and after that immediately turned off. I can get power but it ain’t start up. Only two codes appeared and it said: U3003-16 U3003-17 Battery voltage - Circuit voltage Below Threshold Battery voltage - Circuit voltage Above Threshold What does this mean and how do I get it fixed? By the way, I had to mechanics look at it and they cannot figure out the problem. Thanks in advance.
Every time you get a U code it means a communication issue. That means somewhere some how a computer is losing communication with another module. I am way from my desk right now. Give me couple hours and I’ll look it up for u
Saw this same issue on multiple escapes and focuses. It should be a recall by ford because it’s dangerous if the car shuts off when driving on the highway and I read multiple reports of this happening to people when driving on the highway.
Hi..i have a 2013 Ford escape se 1.6 liter engine....had my check engine light come on and went to get scan at AutoZone codes p0171 and p0087 came on for system too lean and fuel rail system pressure too low.....anyway it said to change the canister purge valve....which we did..still no start..tried jumping it nothing...bought a new battery and new spark plugs and nothing....took to Ford dealership....been there for a week and they can't figure out what's wrong??? They thought it was the pcm....$1500 later called me and said still same problem the car isn't catching a spark??? I'm so exhausted from this...any advice?
You need to look at the codes first. Systems too lean mean not enough fuel the air fuel ratio is off. Thera are. 2 fuel pumps on this vehicle so the fuel system needs to be trouble shoot before you do anything else.
The fuel pump inside the fueltank is pulse-width modulated by the PCM. It should give you between 50psi to 80psi. The secondary fuel pump is a mechanical pump located on the cylinder head that one should give you about 2,000 psi
I changed the battery on a 2016 and then the car wouldn't do n e thing so i changed the positive cable and still wouldn't do anything do u think it the mega. Fuse that is wrong with it
I'm using alldata repair manual, this is what we used in school. there are other programs available like identifix, I try to used it but I could not navigate It, I'm paying for alldata program it's a subscription $300 a month. I'm not sure that you want to subscribe if you only need one diagram.
@@antonioaguirre6166 I have a 2013 Ford Escape that won't start after replacing the transmission. All the part were put back together but but there's no communication.
if you can send me the vin number or license plate number so I can get the information for you. do you not have communication via obd2 port, or do you not have communication with the tcm?
My 2014 escape wont turn on it just clicks when i push start button. I just had transmission put in. I went to get car today and it just kept clicking when i pushed start. No lights or nothing
there is a ground on the transmission I believe. check it out that happen to someone else before, make sure is tight and secure. i think is in this tread too. let me look for it.
I don't want to talk to my car. I just want it to start, be comfortable, reliable, and economical. I don't want to have to learn to be an auto mechanic in order to use my car. I may have to start buying used cars with plain old keys and less "beneficial" technologies.
unfortunately, most of the new vehicles are adopting this new technology, technology is evolving very rapidly, and we have to evolve with it, you don't have to like it, but you need to understand it. there is no going back but moving forward.
Thank you so much! Dealership charged me for a new battery and body control module. It still didn’t fix the issue, but this video made me realize my fuse is broken. Would’ve probably gotten a new car if it weren’t for you making this video!
@@nolanb7096 thank you like and subscribe and keep sharing it. That way people don’t spend a fortune on repairs
Thank you, I just started having this issue. I was about to replace my wiring harnesses. You saved me from going down a financial rabbit hole.
You're welcome! it seems like my videos are helping a lot of people to save time and money. like and subscribe
Antonio you're amazing man keep being a great person in helping others with these step by step instructions for the means to a solution
I believe my videos have help others to fix their problems and save some money. That’s what I want to accomplish on my TH-cam channel. It will be a shame to take all of this knowledge with me when I’m gone.
Thank you for this video, the part 782-1144 from NAPA Canada cost 14.46$ my garage changed it in less then 10 minutes. Having the part here I cannot see that it’s broken but the truck no longer has the problem. Time will tell but I'm confident that was the problem. Thank you again.
Thank you! Finally, someone who knows what they're talking about!
I try my best. I hope this is helpful for you. I went to UTI in Houston and that
School helped me to understand about electronics, computers and diagrams
By the way, you're voice is undeniable very soothing and calming. I love your energy lol
Thank you very much for your compliments. I do my best to teach anyone that wants to learn. Thank you for watching like my videos and subscribe it really helps
My man!! You saved me soooo much headache. This was exactly what I needed to fix my vehicle. Could not find anything helpful online. I was trying everything. Not sure how I stumbled on your video but thank you so much for helping us out!!
@@luciomartinez like, subscribe and share it. A lot of people don’t know this and are loosing so much money with this problem
I fix my problem a few months ago but this is the same exact problem I was having. Your video is the best one out there
Thank you very much I am very happy that some one appreciates my work and my knowledge
? Someone told me you have to keep power to the computer if I changed mine but I just think there trying to make a healthy dollar.Mine just started running sluggish and it's saying my batteries low once in awhile when I have the ignition on acc .There's no way the person told me this was right ain't no different then unhooking the battery right. I know not to have current when I do it but is it gonna cause me to have to get it flashed to run right again .What's your opion?
Thanks so much for this helpful video. This solved my issue. I watched a bunch of similar videos on TH-cam but yours was by far the best as it was detailed and right to the point and even a bonus of fuse part number. Thanks again
I’m glad it helped you
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have a 2015 Escape that did the same thing. I bought the fuse and changed it and it solved my problem! Thank you for showing the part number as well, this made things much easier!!
that's awesome, great to hear from you, thank you for watching like share and subscribe
I’m having this issue currently with my 2017 ford escape. I tested the battery alternator and starter and everything was great. I’m going to try this this evening, I’m hoping everything will work just fine. Thank you for this.
Sounds like the same issue. Good luck with your project and let me know the outcome. I’m kind of curious about it
Thank you for watching, like and subscribe it helps
Would you happen to know if the fuse positioning on the 2017 is the same as the one above? I forgot to mention that I also have a check engine light on that read small leak in fuel pump! So I really believe this may fix it lol
@@chelseacrawford7721 I believe it’s all the same. Ford did not changed till 2018 or 2019 something like that
I went to get the fuse replaced and it started up just fine afterward buuut after putting gas in it, had trouble starting up. Is my fuse location the same in my 1.5L turbo as the 2.0L turbo that you worked on in the video? Because I had it replaced but it didn’t fix the issue
@@chelseacrawford7721 that means the evap purge solenoid is stuck open. All of the fumes went into your intake and it flooded the engine with fumes from the tank
Ty Soo much for doing this video!! We did the test and it showed the same results you got. So i got a fuse from my local NAPA and bam.. Its up and going again!!
that's awesome, you very welcome
Solved the problem for my 2015 Ford escape so so thankful you made this video!
you are welcome, I'm glad it worked out for you, like, share and subscribe, someone else may have this issue too
@antonioaguirre6166 now my a/c fan and heater blower are not working. Another fuse in the main fuse box ?
@@juliamanning2985 did it happen right after you replaced the fuse or it happened after a while?
@@antonioaguirre6166 right after we reset the 50a fuse. Car came on with no a/c fan.
@ I think you need to go back and double check your work maybe something is loose or disconnected
I’m glad it help
I like to share my experiences so other people can solve these issues
Buen día amigo donde puedo bajar el diagrama ese de los posibles
@@josechacon6032 Alldata es el programa que yo uso. Andentifix también los tiene pero estos programas hay que pagar por el servicio
@@antonioaguirre6166 buenas yo los tengo ya verifique los fusible y están bien
Que hace el carro?
@@antonioaguirre6166 regalame un número y hablamos a ver me puede orientar en algo
Just to add my experience. 2013 Escape 1.6.
My son was driving it home and the engine died. The instrument display said the transmission not in park. The lights would come on inside, but no dash lights. Miles showed up on display, but nothing else. Would not start.
Had to use the override switch in the shift lever to put it into neutral and drug it home.
Watched many videos.
Checked:
battery-it was ok, 1 year old
Mega fuses- ok, ohm check and voltage checked. Even swapped 2 50A-all good.
Major grounds-generally looked like crap (northern tier salted roads), but checked good otherwise. Cleaned and moved on.
With no other major things or any available indications, I decided to check the start circuit, starting with the key circuit. Quickly found the Ignition Switch Fuse (F78 on BCM) was blown. Replaced it and car worked as advertised. Tried to drive it, and the fuse blew again.
Began shooting wires after the fuse to find short. Checked to key and back. Looked for shorts to ground, none found. Shook harnesses and connectors, no shorts found.
Began looking for other potential shorts associate with the floor shifter, instrument panel, pedals (for the heck of it.) To my surprise, found a Ford Remote Start System DNA-9 GEN-2 stuffed up under the driver’s side.
Had bought the car used and was told there was no remote start. Was surprised because the wiring checked good following the diagrams for no remote start.
Due to the shoddiness of the installation as well as manufacture dates on these remote start parts, this system was installed at least two years after the car was manufactured.
Started researching my car problems with this Ford remote starter. Found a post for a 2015 Escape with the same problems. (His remote start stopped working and even the key wouldn’t work. Found F78 blown.)
He disconnected the Ford DNA-9 GEN-2, replaced the fuse and it worked. He opened the box and found corrosion all over the board.
I disconnected the remote start, replaced the fuse, everything worked fine. Did many laps around a local addition, no more problems.
I opened the Ford DNA-2 GEN-2 and found a blown diode.
Since this remote start box has been removed, I have had no further problems.
Hope this helps if all the rest doesn’t.
Same exact issue. It costed about 10 bucks for the fuse but the shop charged about 100 bucks for diagnosis and investigations. :)))
I'm glad you got it right. thank you for watching, like and subscribe. sorry for the slow response
Helpful, thank you! They were going to replace the battery…$230.00.
Wow I’m glad I was able to help. Thank you for watching like and subscribe it helps my channel
God Bless you and your Family in The Name of JESUS for making This Video!!!!
Thank you very much. Like, share and subscribe that’s way you can help the channel. Thank you for watching
I’m not even getting a code, the dealership made me pay for diagnostics, battery replacement and wires , $800 later and it’s still happening. Every time I take it, it starts for them. Since December I’ve been dealing with this, today, again it won’t start. I’m about to go wiggle wires in the area above just to see if I can get it to start because I’m broke from Uber every time it happens, they have it for a week or two and I got to get to work. They did the BCM update for the recall and fixed all the other recalls, I had keys reprogrammed, and in November the transmission was rebuilt. I’m like 8k in the hole by now🤦♀️
Omg have you try to check the fuse that I mentioned on the video?
Just found your vid. Have a 2014 eecape. Every once in a while it won't start has a clicking noise. I jump start it and it may work for a month or a week. I have checked the battery and charging system all ok. It originally happened one time in 6 months. But ut is happening more often now. My escape has the bigger Ecoboost. Thank you
I hope this video help you solve your problem. thank you for watching like, and subscribe it helps the channel.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to explain. Very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Very good information and explanation.
Glad you liked it, thank you for watching, like, share and subscribe it helps the channel.
Super helpful! Thank you! I was so worried and you made me feel better 🙏🤗
Did you get it running?
@@antonioaguirre6166 Not yet, but I will try it out. You described my exact problem though, so I'm hopeful.
Great! Good luck to you
Thanks for the video, I have a 2015 Ford escape SE, does not have the turbo, when I turn the key a good part of the time it turns over a few times and starts like it should, and then sometimes it’ll turn over several times before it starts Like it’s not getting enough pre-ignition or pre-fuel or whatever the terminology is, I am wondering if I have the same issue? Sometimes the battery would drain down because it was turning over so much, and the battery was old and I replaced it, but it seems to be doing the same thing, and the starter sounds fine, just not quite sure if I’m having the same problem, what do you think? thanks
sounds like your issue is different than mine, I will recommend you take a to a shop or someone with more knowledge about electrical issues
We just bought a 2014 yesterday I think I have the same problem I push the button nothing is like the battery is dead. I wondering if the hood and wiggled it and I hear that same clicking noise I'm going to try to change the fuse this is a great video. Thanks for your help.
You are welcome. Good luck with your project. I think the wiggle test is the best 😀. Thank you for watching like and subscribe it really helps
@@antonioaguirre6166 I like & unsubscribe both thanks again. When you hit the push button on the car, everything was dead. Besides the radio and lights correct no windows up or down or nothing no response didn't recognize key fob. I'm working now I'm going to work on it when I get home.
@@arthurgreen9149 sounds like the same problem. Sometimes when it started I could drive for a few block and the car would just died on me like the battery drained out. That was another symptom I forgot to point out.
Thank you let us know what you find
@@antonioaguirre6166 that took care of the problem. Thanks again great video.
Im having the same issues with my 2014 escape. Battery, alternator & starter all testing fine. Just randomly doesn’t start and this week does while i was driving. I’m hoping this is the issue 🙏🏻
Good luck 9 times out of 10 it is
Let us know
@@antonioaguirre6166it worked!! I’m so relieved thank you!
That’s awesome. Thank you for watching, like and subscribe it helps. Passed along it can help someone else
Any ideas on a Fault Engine Service now message ?
You the man, great info.
thank you, I'm glad it helps you, like share and subscribe, it helps the channel
Antonio this is a great video many thanks, quick question for you. I do have continuity in all mega fuses but no 12v power top and bottom, what can be the cause? you think that the main 150A fuse is out? thanks
@@texicano30 sound like it. I will check between continuity between the two ends on the mega fuse first before changing it
I took this fuse off last night and it seemed fine. No noise and I had continuity. I guess I'll test voltage drop when I get home and see.
How much profit was made with this vehicle? I had to replace a 50 amp mega fuse on our 2017 Escape.
I don't really remember the exact number, we had to do some work on it too, like a catalytic converter but there was room for profit for sure
Hola Antonio.
How do i check for voltage the drop? Whats the contraption (voltmeter?) called and where do i place it to check the voltage?
you have to be on direct current ( V with the dotted line) V with the wave line means alternating current. you will see a voltage drop when there is a high resistance. the 12v will drop to less than 12v. and if you have an open it will show 0 voltage. negative lead goes to the ground you can tap on the battery or any good know ground. and your red lead goes to the end of component that you are testing. and don't worry about shorting out the multimeter is very safe even if you used it wrong. do not use a test light in this type of vehicles.
I hope this helps, thank you for watching like and subscribe it helps the channel
Where did you find the fuse diagram? This is my exact problem right now!
I got a program where I can get all kinds of diagrams, its called AllData
What is the cause of this fuse going out? I have a 2019 escape 2.0 ecoboost and while I don’t have this issue I’m wondering if it’s still an issue on the 2019. The 2019 is the last year of this body style before they went to the new body style.
The fuse did not pop it was broken in the inside. I guess it was a defective part.
Ok. I don’t have a starting issue but I have some weird electrical things happening like charge port turning off, interior climate lights sometimes turning off, touch to unlock sometimes not working when it’s wet outside, intermittent bucking under load. I have no codes and my battery tests good when off and when running. I monitored live data and noticed on the control module voltage sometimes it bounces around a lot and even spikes to 50V and drops to 0.007V, each for a second. And the engine coolant temperature also sometimes spikes to 150C for a second so it seems there is some ground issue or something. I’m going to check these fuses. Do you think it’s possible for me to have an issue with this 50A fuse that’s not causing me starting issues but is causing some of the other things I mentioned which are probably all controlled by the body control module?
Gonna have to try this my friend has a 2014 that does nothing, it was driving/cranking with lights flashing jerky driving etc...its be sitting for a year got a new battery, just reading no key detected , i can get it to power up, but it wont start just says engine fault, code reader will not connect either🧐🤔😅
I'm having an issue getting my 2019 ford escape to start. I would notice before, it would turn over a couple times before starting up, but always started up. It was colder last night and woke up to the car not turning over at all. I am going to switch out the battery or have it tested first, but would like to know if your video would also help with new models that aren't starting up.
what size engine do you have. it would help to have a little more information about the car. you can always send me your vin number or license plate number and pull the information. if it was turning over slowly most likely your starter is going out. it's a good idea to have your battery fully charged, that is the first step, and if that does not work the try to get your starter tested
@@antonioaguirre6166 Thank you. It is SE FWD 1.5 L 91 CID L4 DOHC 16 valve.
@@antonioaguirre6166 And yes, it would turn over slowly, sometimes would take a second time to fully crank. Now it will just click for the most part, and once in every 10 tries, it will sound like it wants to turn over, but does not and goes dead.
I see. Yes, usually when the cold weather comes around the batteries can go bad. If you battery is over five years old you might have to consider replacing it. Take it to get tested firs, if it test ok and gets full charged try to start the car if
That don’t do it then look at
The starter.
@@antonioaguirre6166 thank you. $250 later and new battery we are running again. One thing I notice is the check engine light is now on. I guess I should have that checked out.
You are clearly a genius. I'm having the exact same problem on a 2016 ford escape. No check engine light, randomly stalls, runs fine some time. Do you have the wiring diagram from the high voltage junction box to the various components. I would really appreciate it.
Thank you for the compliment. Yes I can pull any wiring diagram. I’m going to need your vin number in order to pull it out
Do you have a contact email or work shop phone because I don't want to post Vin online.Thank you. @@antonioaguirre6166
th-cam.com/users/shortsBK5kqZnxfJg?si=vXoC3Vd7tYYMkv1w
I’ll have your diagrams coming soon
@@antonioaguirre6166Link to the wiring diagram?
was this resolved with just the fuse exchange? Did the car start then? no issues?
@@antjee yes the car started and ran fine after that. I think is a common issue on this vehicle
Hi I have a ford escape 2014 with a physical key. When I turn it and try pressing the gas it clicks for a while then the lights on everything come one along with the radio but it says key fob not detected on the dash and still no start..so is it the key fob even though it’s a physical key? Or should I replace the battery or the fuses?
Do you have another key that you can try?
If the vehicle can not detect the key it will disable the engine from starting. This a little different then the problem I had. I will suggest getting a lock smith first and try to program your key first.
Excellent helpful video, much appreciated!
Thank you very much. I’m glad it was helpful for you. Like and subscribe it helps a lot
Thank you so much!! Life saver.
You are very welcome
I have a Ford Escape 2016, and when I crank up the car, it says 4WD off, and Hill starts disabled. As of late, I have had to jumpstart my car every other day since last Saturday morning. This car is so stressful because the labor on it is so costly. I mean you literally have to remove the transmission just to change the battery. Furthermore, I got Advance Auto to check the battery it's fine. I recently bought a new one.
I just recently replaced that same exact fuse and a couple weeks later it didn’t want to start. What else can it be? Starter is new, alternator and battery work
do you have a push button?
I would need to take a look at it, it sounds like an electrical problem, it is hard to tell not having the car present
Where can I get de diagram you used in the video?
I get all of my diagrams from ALLDATA. I have been using all data since I was in automotive school, back in 2013. That is what I learned to used. I know there is another program call Adentifix at a lower price similar to ALLDATA. I was not able to use it cuz I'm not used to it. but you can try
thank you for watching like and subscribe it helps my channel
Ford Escape, Ford Focus, 2013 -2018 have the same problem, the same fuse.
@@g.p.v._s.p.o.t5416 did it work?
It's been almost a week that my Skip 2014 doesn't turn on with one press of the start button, and it's the second and third presses, I also tested with a new battery, but it still doesn't turn on with one press of the start button, is the problem with the starter or in fuses?
to be honest with I won't know exactly the cause of the problem till the car has been diagnosed. on this video it was the fuse, but you could have something different going on.
thank you for watching, like and subscribe it helps the channel
Where did you hook up the negative, on the battery I can’t get to it it’s buried on this model?
Just any ground available
@@antonioaguirre6166 thanks
I’m having an intermittent no start issue on a 2015 escape. But I’m getting a park aid fault service required message on the dash when this no start issue shows it’s face. Other times it will start and run like nothing is wrong. Did you happen to see this same message on the dash when your escape was not starting? Thanks in advance!!
Nope it didn’t show any messages. Sometimes it will run fine and later died on me like the alternator or battery was bad. But that’s because the body control module was loosing power
Hi, can you help me with the plane electric? Thank you!!
Didn’t quite get your question
Hello, what type of max fuse is that ?
mega fuse, I believe. the part number in in the video
i got it from the dealer, the auto parts don't stock it
I am having this issue with my car. It’s a 2013 ford escape se. I was driving and it said “engine fault” and after that immediately turned off. I can get power but it ain’t start up. Only two codes appeared and it said: U3003-16
U3003-17
Battery voltage - Circuit voltage Below Threshold
Battery voltage - Circuit voltage Above Threshold
What does this mean and how do I get it fixed? By the way, I had to mechanics look at it and they cannot figure out the problem. Thanks in advance.
Every time you get a U code it means a communication issue. That means somewhere some how a computer is losing communication with another module. I am way from my desk right now. Give me couple hours and I’ll look it up for u
is battery recently replace or jump started?
any recent work done to the vehicle, as battery, alternator or anything electrical?
Which mega fuse goes to the starter?
@@DouglasKing-l6f what year and what engine size is your vehicle? I just realized they are similar but a little different depending on the engine
Saw this same issue on multiple escapes and focuses. It should be a recall by ford because it’s dangerous if the car shuts off when driving on the highway and I read multiple reports of this happening to people when driving on the highway.
Hi I have changed all the fuse but my car is running and sometimes just cut power. Any help ?
Any store codes?
How did u get compartment open for fuses
It has tabs all around. Try with a small flat head screwdriver
Thanks!
You are welcome
I’m glad you liked it. Like and subscribe it helps my Chanel
Mega fuse issue huh! Thx a lot!
Glad it helped, you are welcome, like and subscribe it helps my channel.
Hi..i have a 2013 Ford escape se 1.6 liter engine....had my check engine light come on and went to get scan at AutoZone codes p0171 and p0087 came on for system too lean and fuel rail system pressure too low.....anyway it said to change the canister purge valve....which we did..still no start..tried jumping it nothing...bought a new battery and new spark plugs and nothing....took to Ford dealership....been there for a week and they can't figure out what's wrong??? They thought it was the pcm....$1500 later called me and said still same problem the car isn't catching a spark??? I'm so exhausted from this...any advice?
You need to look at the codes first. Systems too lean mean not enough fuel the air fuel ratio is off. Thera are. 2 fuel pumps on this vehicle so the fuel system needs to be trouble shoot before you do anything else.
The fuel pump inside the fueltank is pulse-width modulated by the PCM. It should give you between 50psi to 80psi. The secondary fuel pump is a mechanical pump located on the cylinder head that one should give you about 2,000 psi
I hope this helps
Thank u so much I will keep u updated!!!
thank you for watching, like, share and subscribe it helps the channel.
Who got part number for this fuse panel?
I don't have a part number for it. I can try to find out for you on Monday. thank you for watching like and subscribe it helps the channel.
Amazon
I changed the battery on a 2016 and then the car wouldn't do n e thing so i changed the positive cable and still wouldn't do anything do u think it the mega. Fuse that is wrong with it
Most likely, following my instructions or take it to someone that knows how to test circuits. But it seems like everyone is having this issue
I'm having this problem as well
try this first, before you start changing anything else, the fuse is not that expensive.
like and subscribe, let us know if that fixes it.
Antonio where can I download that wiring diagram for a 2013 Ford Escape?
I'm using alldata repair manual, this is what we used in school. there are other programs available like identifix, I try to used it but I could not navigate It, I'm paying for alldata program it's a subscription $300 a month. I'm not sure that you want to subscribe if you only need one diagram.
what are you looking for? I can probably print it out for you. and either put it in the comments or maybe make a video about it
@@antonioaguirre6166
I have a 2013 Ford Escape that won't start after replacing the transmission.
All the part were put back together but but there's no communication.
Very similar to the issue that you had with your Ford escape.
if you can send me the vin number or license plate number so I can get the information for you. do you not have communication via obd2 port, or do you not have communication with the tcm?
I have a 2.0 how do i get the wiring diagram you have
Which one do you need
@@antonioaguirre6166 i won’t be needing them anymore I changed the same fuse you did and now my escape works thanks
Wow that’s amazing I’m glad it was helpful for you
My 2014 escape wont turn on it just clicks when i push start button. I just had transmission put in. I went to get car today and it just kept clicking when i pushed start. No lights or nothing
there is a ground on the transmission I believe. check it out that happen to someone else before, make sure is tight and secure. i think is in this tread too. let me look for it.
thank you for watching, like and subscribe it helps my channel.
Ford escapes didn't come with a 2.2 EcoBoost
@@1fast2liter I know, that’s my mistake
It's a 2.0.. I'm having the same issue on a 2013
I believe is very similar to this diagram unless you have the regular key. This is for the keyless, the one with the push button
Hi Antonio
how to contact you
I have a question
You can ask me here in this platform
you can ask me anything on here. I will get back to you as soon as possible.
Hola Antonio eso me está pasando y no se que sea 😞
Checa el fusible
Creo que a todos le esta pasando lo mismo
Como estás
Pues tuve que cambiar la batería 😕
Pero ya quedó bien el carro?
I don't want to talk to my car. I just want it to start, be comfortable, reliable, and economical. I don't want to have to learn to be an auto mechanic in order to use my car.
I may have to start buying used cars with plain old keys and less "beneficial" technologies.
unfortunately, most of the new vehicles are adopting this new technology, technology is evolving very rapidly, and we have to evolve with it, you don't have to like it, but you need to understand it. there is no going back but moving forward.