If you would have told me two years ago that 1s quads would be so fast with actual frames i would have thought you crazy. Loving the micro advancements
For anyone removing the motor plugs, Add more solder wire to bridge all the pins then you can heat them all up and pull the plastic housing and they should all come with it - it might leave a pin behind if gets too hot but they are easily removed. Hope it helps!
@@peterzingler6221 meh, I've always found the pumps to be more trouble than they are worth. Usually requiring many attempts each and a few curse words. Either wick or adding solder bridging the pins is probably fastest and easiest. But if the pump works good for you then great.
@@juggalizzle75 www.adafruit.com/product/1597 & www.adafruit.com/product/2476 You need a silicone-tipped sucker. The hard nylon-tipped ones are indeed a nightmare to use on anything small. The silicone tipped, you can press onto the tip of your iron just before you touch whatever solder joint you want gone. I was able to pry and pull the plastic housing off of the pins, I touched each pad with the iron and removed the pin with micro forceps, and I added a touch of solder to each pad and then removed it all with the solder sucker. I was able to feed the un-tinned motor wire "through-hole" and solder normally; all clean. These tiny AIO's have very short traces leading to the FET outputs... dumping heat directly into them by solder-bridging pins is not recommended. You want to keep the amount of time anything is exposed to high heat to a bare minimum, and have a PWM fan blowing across the board to make sure it's only hot while in direct contact with the iron for the half-second blip of heat you need to join or break any connection; www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-External-One-Touch-Retractable-AF0007/dp/B00080G0BK/?th=1 If you're on any joint for more than half a second at a time, you're risking damaging components.
To remove pins, chips, etc that have multiple pins i find it easiest to add a ton of solder that covers all the solder points. This allows all of the solder to be molten at the same time. Then just pull the connector out intact. This makes removing multiple pins pretty easy.
Hey Kim, I use those surgical scissors (needlepoint) that will clamp down on the plug and then by taking the soldering iron and lay it sideways so that all three post will heat up at the same time. The scissors will act as a weight and once the solder heats up, the plug and the scissors will separate from the aio board. These scissors have 3 pressure settings, do not over tighten, use the first setting (click) only, and focusing on one side of the plug, pinch on the inner side and outer side.... that will do it!...Thanks for sharing this awesome little babytooth Stealth
The RPM filter has made my micro's fly better, a noticeable difference.. Plus the 48khz thing has added flight time to every single one of my micro's, at least %25 to each.. It is a great time to be flying FPV micro brushless!!
Hey Albert, i had to remove the plugs on my CBF4 for my recent build. There is actually a really easy trick; because the motor pins on the other side of the plug are so close together, just use the side of a fine-tipped soldering iron to touch all three pins at once. As soon as the solder starts to flow you can pull the plug off (holding from the other side with a pair of needle-nosed pliars) in one go! Takes less than 30 seconds to have all 4 plugs removed :)
I've tried that too... maybe I'm just not coordinated enough or just unlucky but that never seemed to work for me. Even with extra flux and a bigger soldering end.
@@AlbertKimTV MY TS100 at 400 degrees (hot and fast method) works every time pretty much. Maybe use a croc clip to hold the board whilst you do it. They can be a bit stubborn sometimes for sure.
By putting a little bit of heat shrink around your motor shaft as long as it's not a threaded shaft, you can expand your shaft size in a straight line.
How do you like this one compared to the 3S, 1303 motor build you did for that Kabob spec? Trying to decide which way to go, and if this is more of a conceptual option vs practical daily flier...
Just finished all but the motors. Slightly different, Betafpv f4 1s and NameLessRC Nano 400 VTX. Waiting on Kabab. Might have to source some motors for this week. Snow is melting and getting anxious. Still gonna use your idea to split the motor wires between top and bottom pads. :)
I wonder how safe it is around people. I think the original intention for the toothpick and that weird brushed thing kabab build was that it is quiet and safe so you can fly it everywhere. But what about those 3 inch props? can they still chop fingers on 1s?
Been waiting for this post from you. Such an easy build for so much performance. Shame the SPI receiver didn’t cut it and super surprised to see you coming in over 53 grams.
Albert, Adam Bomb has a video about how to quickly remove the motor pins from the aio boards. No soldering iron required. I have tried his method and it works as advertised. Thanks for this review, very much appreciated.
With the new FAA rules these micros will be a must have in the near future!!! But I love the small fast quads!!! I really like that this is a 1s quad!!! Kabab is the man!!!!! Great Review And Great Flying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm sure there probably are, but you need to be very skilled and quick with the iron. I just removed the plastic connector first and then removed one pin at a time. It was slower to do overall but still works. If you want to learn a fancier technique you'll have to find a video about it.
@@AlbertKimTV Thanks for the quick reply, you're the best. How about double sided tape? Have you heard of any light frames to make a toothpick out of tinyhawk 2 guts?
So I built one so far... it's really floaty! Do you know off hand if there is a setting I can tweak somewhere to get it to drop faster when I let off the throttle? I can't duck obstacles cause the props seems to have too much rotational inertia on 48kHz. I don't really want to back it down to 24kHz due to efficiency (the 600mAh's already sag to the point where you can crash an ESC on a punchout). I tried turning features like Airmode and Antigravity off, but it just makes for a bit more wobble when I throttle back up out of a dive or similar. If I chase cars or fly through gusts with it, she picks up turbulence like a sailboat, which I'm assuming is down to the huge props and low AUW?
Hi I am very new to fpv and was just wondering how you would charge these batteries that only have one xt30 connecter because all of the other 1s batteries I have seen seem to have 2 wires for charging (a white one and then the xt30).
Hi Albert. I have a spare Mob6, and I'm transplanting the guts into a babytooth frame. Would you mind sharing a diff of your config so I can take a look at your resource mappings?
Hey albert, do you still recommend the runcam nano 3 for this thing? It now comes with a different lens and i've heard many people complain about the bad picture. Thanks.
I see that you are using xm+ that means I can easily fit in a crossfire nano rx + mini immortal? would that work? btw any other good 1s board to recommend since the crazybee f4 kinda have a built in rx. maybe some board with no rx would save some weight? thinking of building a baby tooth but kabab babytooth pick board have built in rx which i cant install a crossfire into it
How would this compare to the Emax TinyHawk Freestyle II? Am tossing up between the two. I have a TinyHawk II Race and a GEPRC Skip 3 coming and was looking for a little Freestyle quad
I'm not sure what a 3v reset however I have had my share of 5v BECs burning out on mine. I think 2 or 3. I have not had any ESCs burn out on me yet. Thankfully, the 5v BEC can be fixed pretty easily with a bypass and the boards are still usable. th-cam.com/video/jgRIGHu4RtI/w-d-xo.html
i really wanted to buy these but they're always out of stock 😔 so just waiting for my pickle mini to arrive now n make a similar build, btw great video as always!! 👍👍
Ohhh no 😮 😯 😲!!!! I can’t believe you insulted Bob by putting the Mobula 6 Happy Model time on his build !!!! He would be sooo insulted !!!! Ha ha lol just saying !!!! Great video Albert K
Kabab Babytooth Frame - bit.ly/2R4b4g8
1202.5 11500kv motors - bit.ly/2ThtYCQ
CrazyBee F4 Lite - bit.ly/2t0SQnX | bit.ly/2ulJSC1
bit.ly/30aE224
RunCam Nano 3 - bit.ly/35EtObm | bit.ly/2FjQX8n
bit.ly/2QplBmW
NewBeeDrone Mount - bit.ly/2QM6cxl
Gemfan 3016x3 prop - bit.ly/2QLHHAs | bit.ly/30bRT8e
GNB 600mah 1S Lipo - bit.ly/2sfXLAL | amzn.to/2Njq1Kl
I’ve been wanting to build this, but parts are never in stock 😐
If you would have told me two years ago that 1s quads would be so fast with actual frames i would have thought you crazy. Loving the micro advancements
I got my first toothpick this weekend and i still can't believe how quick it is and feels.
For anyone removing the motor plugs,
Add more solder wire to bridge all the pins then you can heat them all up and pull the plastic housing and they should all come with it - it might leave a pin behind if gets too hot but they are easily removed.
Hope it helps!
@@peterzingler6221 meh, I've always found the pumps to be more trouble than they are worth. Usually requiring many attempts each and a few curse words. Either wick or adding solder bridging the pins is probably fastest and easiest. But if the pump works good for you then great.
@@juggalizzle75 www.adafruit.com/product/1597 & www.adafruit.com/product/2476 You need a silicone-tipped sucker. The hard nylon-tipped ones are indeed a nightmare to use on anything small. The silicone tipped, you can press onto the tip of your iron just before you touch whatever solder joint you want gone. I was able to pry and pull the plastic housing off of the pins, I touched each pad with the iron and removed the pin with micro forceps, and I added a touch of solder to each pad and then removed it all with the solder sucker. I was able to feed the un-tinned motor wire "through-hole" and solder normally; all clean. These tiny AIO's have very short traces leading to the FET outputs... dumping heat directly into them by solder-bridging pins is not recommended. You want to keep the amount of time anything is exposed to high heat to a bare minimum, and have a PWM fan blowing across the board to make sure it's only hot while in direct contact with the iron for the half-second blip of heat you need to join or break any connection; www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-External-One-Touch-Retractable-AF0007/dp/B00080G0BK/?th=1 If you're on any joint for more than half a second at a time, you're risking damaging components.
To remove pins, chips, etc that have multiple pins i find it easiest to add a ton of solder that covers all the solder points. This allows all of the solder to be molten at the same time. Then just pull the connector out intact. This makes removing multiple pins pretty easy.
Same thing I do to remove an MMCX connector from a VTX
Hey Kim, I use those surgical scissors (needlepoint) that will clamp down on the plug and then by taking the soldering iron and lay it sideways so that all three post will heat up at the same time. The scissors will act as a weight and once the solder heats up, the plug and the scissors will separate from the aio board. These scissors have 3 pressure settings, do not over tighten, use the first setting (click) only, and focusing on one side of the plug, pinch on the inner side and outer side.... that will do it!...Thanks for sharing this awesome little babytooth Stealth
The RPM filter has made my micro's fly better, a noticeable difference.. Plus the 48khz thing has added flight time to every single one of my micro's, at least %25 to each.. It is a great time to be flying FPV micro brushless!!
Hey Albert, i had to remove the plugs on my CBF4 for my recent build. There is actually a really easy trick; because the motor pins on the other side of the plug are so close together, just use the side of a fine-tipped soldering iron to touch all three pins at once. As soon as the solder starts to flow you can pull the plug off (holding from the other side with a pair of needle-nosed pliars) in one go! Takes less than 30 seconds to have all 4 plugs removed :)
I've tried that too... maybe I'm just not coordinated enough or just unlucky but that never seemed to work for me. Even with extra flux and a bigger soldering end.
@@AlbertKimTV MY TS100 at 400 degrees (hot and fast method) works every time pretty much. Maybe use a croc clip to hold the board whilst you do it. They can be a bit stubborn sometimes for sure.
By putting a little bit of heat shrink around your motor shaft as long as it's not a threaded shaft, you can expand your shaft size in a straight line.
Silverwing great tip!
Thanks AK ! Getting ready to do the same exact build. Was curious if the crazy be lite would hold up. Thx 👍
The jet at 30,000 ft is louder than the quad😄
Super nice build!
How do you like this one compared to the 3S, 1303 motor build you did for that Kabob spec? Trying to decide which way to go, and if this is more of a conceptual option vs practical daily flier...
3S is way more fun and faster but this 1S is a lot less noisy and also fun, just not as much.
@@AlbertKimTV Thanks, that helps! But seems like the answer is always "both"!
building mine now, curious if adding a capacitor to the xt30 would be overkill
Wouldn't hurt, just adds weight.
Add it to the AIO battery lead pads, it will work better that way for some reason
The build we've been waiting for ... LOVE!!! Magnifying headset and TS100 make it is easier to direct solder.
Just finished all but the motors. Slightly different, Betafpv f4 1s and NameLessRC Nano 400 VTX. Waiting on Kabab. Might have to source some motors for this week. Snow is melting and getting anxious. Still gonna use your idea to split the motor wires between top and bottom pads. :)
I wonder how safe it is around people. I think the original intention for the toothpick and that weird brushed thing kabab build was that it is quiet and safe so you can fly it everywhere. But what about those 3 inch props? can they still chop fingers on 1s?
Amazing kit! I have ordered the parts and soon will start with the build. Can't wait.
I've been interested in building with this frame. Need to finish a few other builds before starting another one. Thanks for the video.
Been waiting for this post from you. Such an easy build for so much performance. Shame the SPI receiver didn’t cut it and super surprised to see you coming in over 53 grams.
Gonna need these sneaky little quads after the FAA has their way with us.
Now I have a good reason to be thinking quiet. It is to be sneaky!
Albert, Adam Bomb has a video about how to quickly remove the motor pins from the aio boards. No soldering iron required. I have tried his method and it works as advertised. Thanks for this review, very much appreciated.
I have also used AdamBomb's method of removing the plug and it works great and is easy to do..
Link? He's got a million videos with poor titles. Thanks.
@@stevenkelby2169 th-cam.com/video/DUzWvys0oUo/w-d-xo.html
Here is the link to Adambomb fpv's video about how to easily remove the motor pins:
th-cam.com/video/DUzWvys0oUo/w-d-xo.html
@@sganzerlag Thank you sir!
Stealth is great! Able to fly more places with nobody noticing.
I'm flying something very similar right now. Performs almost exactly like this .
Awesome
I like quiet 1 S and 6 minute cruise time plus or minus.
Which quad is more silent, this build or the tinyhawk ?
Thanks for the build notes, I think it will help
Never expected that for 1s. Dope Build!
If you are using the RC nano 3, using a mobula6 canopy will save you 2 grams and give you camera angle adjustability.
I like it. Very similar to my 3” 1S I built with a Trashcan FC and the old Eachine 1102 11,500kv motors from the Revenger 55.
I'd love one of these! If only it was possible to build or buy one.
Great build Albert, flying amazing!!
With the new FAA rules these micros will be a must have in the near future!!! But I love the small fast quads!!! I really like that this is a 1s quad!!! Kabab is the man!!!!!
Great Review And Great Flying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have all the parts. I needed the motivation to build it. This was it! Great video, this will be a fun one! Thank you Albert.
I wonder how quiet it would be with bi-blades?
bI-blades always seem noisier to me.
@@ScowlerJase I guess it depends on what ones.
BigD-FPV True.
sweet quad, building 3s now.
FPV CYCLE ROCKS awsome Albert!!!!
Did you mention flight times on the 600 or 650 1s battery your using here? What can we expect? Sorry if I missed it in the video
is there any video of how to remove those pins? I would really like to remvoen them
I'm sure there probably are, but you need to be very skilled and quick with the iron. I just removed the plastic connector first and then removed one pin at a time. It was slower to do overall but still works. If you want to learn a fancier technique you'll have to find a video about it.
th-cam.com/video/51cUJkEVmvw/w-d-xo.html
around the 1:30 mark, works great, i did it 1st try, just make sure to use a multi meter to check for shorts
AK: Do you have a link for resourcing/remapping the motors when flipping the FC board over?
Already a ton of videos out there... take your pick... bit.ly/30lUHjm
Thank you
How would it work if I transferred a tinyhawk II onto this frame?
That board won't mount on to this frame. You'll need a custom frame.
@@AlbertKimTV Thanks for the quick reply, you're the best. How about double sided tape? Have you heard of any light frames to make a toothpick out of tinyhawk 2 guts?
Your video looks pretty good. Maybe the quad copter being quiet helps with that.
Hey Albert.... are you charging your 1s in parallel? If so how are you getting your charger to read the cell voltage? Again... love your content!
I don't charge anything in parallel anymore. I like to have my lipos last longer.
@@AlbertKimTV - how come parallel charging reduces battery life?
sweet iv been wanting to fly a micro forever maybe ill get to b4 the faa messes everything up lol
To use the XM you soldered it to irx1? I have killed my built-in one on my mobula6
Great vid, I like everything about light copters.
So I built one so far... it's really floaty! Do you know off hand if there is a setting I can tweak somewhere to get it to drop faster when I let off the throttle? I can't duck obstacles cause the props seems to have too much rotational inertia on 48kHz. I don't really want to back it down to 24kHz due to efficiency (the 600mAh's already sag to the point where you can crash an ESC on a punchout). I tried turning features like Airmode and Antigravity off, but it just makes for a bit more wobble when I throttle back up out of a dive or similar. If I chase cars or fly through gusts with it, she picks up turbulence like a sailboat, which I'm assuming is down to the huge props and low AUW?
Sorry, I think you'll have to got o 24khz, but ultimately, this is just too light.
Hi I am very new to fpv and was just wondering how you would charge these batteries that only have one xt30 connecter because all of the other 1s batteries I have seen seem to have 2 wires for charging (a white one and then the xt30).
You need a 1S lipo charger (this one... bit.ly/3gnh3tU) and an adapter to convert the XT30 to PH2.0 (this one bit.ly/3BfuOTF)
@@AlbertKimTV Thanks for the help!
Happen to have a link for those rubber bands
I got them at the 99 cent store.
Hi Albert. I have a spare Mob6, and I'm transplanting the guts into a babytooth frame. Would you mind sharing a diff of your config so I can take a look at your resource mappings?
Check the description.... the CLI dump is linked there.
@@AlbertKimTV Well dang, sorry I missed it. Thanks sir!
Was voltage sag an issue on punch outs?
It is if you hold it for more than 5 seconds
Hey albert, do you still recommend the runcam nano 3 for this thing? It now comes with a different lens and i've heard many people complain about the bad picture. Thanks.
No, the new nano3 is bad. Don't get it. Get the ANT Nano instead. See this video... th-cam.com/video/YM7lWok1Sqg/w-d-xo.html
@@AlbertKimTV Thanks man! That looks great. Kabab fpv told me that the caddx ant lite 4:3 will come out really soon. Looking forward to that cam.
I see that you are using xm+ that means I can easily fit in a crossfire nano rx + mini immortal? would that work? btw any other good 1s board to recommend since the crazybee f4 kinda have a built in rx. maybe some board with no rx would save some weight? thinking of building a baby tooth but kabab babytooth pick board have built in rx which i cant install a crossfire into it
How would this compare to the Emax TinyHawk Freestyle II? Am tossing up between the two. I have a TinyHawk II Race and a GEPRC Skip 3 coming and was looking for a little Freestyle quad
Hard to compare 1S 3-inch to 2S 2.5-inch. The Tinyhawk is probably still a little faster and more agile. The 1S is way quieter. Both are fun.
@@AlbertKimTV Ok thanks for the reply and advice, I will take that on board. What would you choose between the TinyHawk II and the GEPRC Phantom?
Ohhhhh great!!!! Its flyes so smooth!!!
Hi Albert, how has your luck been with the crazybee boards? Also, do you know if it still has the 3v reset? Thanks.
I'm not sure what a 3v reset however I have had my share of 5v BECs burning out on mine. I think 2 or 3. I have not had any ESCs burn out on me yet. Thankfully, the 5v BEC can be fixed pretty easily with a bypass and the boards are still usable. th-cam.com/video/jgRIGHu4RtI/w-d-xo.html
@@AlbertKimTV Couldn't have a better reply. Thanks man!
Hi! What pigtail do you use? 20awg cable with amass xt30?
yep
It’s not too heavy? 22awg should be enough? I wondering is there any advantage over the bt2.0 that I can use the smaller whoops too.
so how do you charge 1s lipos with just the xt30
It's simple, you just use an XT60 to XT30 adapter on a smart charger. I use the ToolkitRC M6D.
Daaang! The flight footage doesnt look like a 1S to me! Wow!
Looks cool.. Very thin arms!
Does it work at 2s?
Not this build. I will have another one that will soon.
@@AlbertKimTV oh. OK. Whatever I want 1s lowest weight
How do you remap the motors ?
Tutorial is here - bit.ly/3iseoNH
Albert Kim
Awesome. Thanks
Where is CLI Dump? I gotta compare notes ; )
Sorry, I'll post the link soon... I forgot
@@AlbertKimTV bruh!
hi anyone tried this build with an 18650 battery?
waoo almost 5 min, I love It :) . Great job, thanks for sharing!!!
Ill take this over some 5inch quad all day🤙
nice little kwad albert
Yay for future videos too!!!
I have that same Kwad and its fucking sick! Easily became my favorite 1s
The Avan Rush props work great on it.
i really wanted to buy these but they're always out of stock 😔 so just waiting for my pickle mini to arrive now n make a similar build, btw great video as always!! 👍👍
Thanks for sharing, so much fun 👍
Cool frame!
Hi Albert, would you like to sell me your cinequeen? ☺
contact me at the link in description
@@AlbertKimTV Email sent, thanks.
Beautiful build, Albert! Really nice! 😃
It really flies amazing! But that camera... Damn... 🙄
Don't like the camera?
@@AlbertKimTV I really don't. 😕
Kabab would be proud
if only this was a bnf
Winner!
Wish you had a po box cuz this drone I built is tripping
???
@@AlbertKimTV so I could send you the thing to help fix my pc crashed so can't connect to pc
Ohhh no 😮 😯 😲!!!!
I can’t believe you insulted Bob by putting the Mobula 6 Happy Model time on his build !!!!
He would be sooo insulted !!!!
Ha ha lol just saying !!!!
Great video Albert K
Sweet
I like it!!!
1s park racer.... soon.... park racing club.
2s toothpicks just rock
This is a 1s, think 2s would be too much for me if this is 1s power!
all my sh** is trash now lmao ;(
So the duece 👻
Loose the rubber band