@@sylaswojciechowski6895 You'd likely have trouble with unnecessary resistance from spring-based battery contacts, mechanical jerk from maneuvers creating a momentary contact gap that would reset the electronics during flight and cause a crash, and at 1S every extra gram of AUW has a greater negative effect on flight dynamics. The less resistance and complexity between the power source and the motor coils, the more reliable and efficient the flight system.
@@mistercohaagen I thought that Ragnork fpv was just talking about charging, not flying, it would be funny to see a 18650 charger sticking out the bottom of a toothpick though 😄. I guess he could just solder a battery lead to the 18650. I didnt think of that, im guessing thats how kabob did it?
Nice! When Nate rips the backyard, the dog gets locked up, the birds 'n the bees run and hide and the trees say "if he makes a mistake, we got got it!"
Unbelievable what is possible in a very small yard. It surely ads to the feel of speed and damn those trees are high! I'm also only flying sub 250 and preferably 1to 2s. I've a Mindblow everytime I see what is possible with a 1s toothpick
FYI, they now ship with the new canopy in black...just got mine yesterday! Tilt is 23 degrees, and now weighs (DSMX version) 28g and has Gemfan props. The sucky thing is still that it only attaches on the sides so it's jello city (and stresses the plastic bolts). I did a small dab of hot glue to stick it to the frame, but yeah, would be nice to have the best of all worlds. :P
I thought I was getting good at flying my BabyTooth, then I saw your flight.. Dang mang!! Yup, I still kinda suck lol.. I have a hard time power looping like you do with it.. 1S takes a little technique to do a great loop.. Tell ya what though.. I LOVE how it orbits. I can get a real fast orbit going.. Loving it!!!
The BabyTooth is so good! I look forward to having one up and running again soon. And dude, there no need to compare anything. There's plenty of things I suck at too. Just get out there and have fun!
Great video Mr. Toothpick bug! lol 😜 My 1s Toothpick weighs in at exactly 24.7 grams, ready to fly, without a battery! I used the incredible R3D Shifters ION Zero GRAV frame... Super durable, but very light and especially ultra low profile! The whole Toothpick is less than 1" thick! No big camera sticking up... It's slim and trim! Frame is made in NYC, NY, USA! Those guys are design geniuses! 😎 🤘 Custom service is a 10 also! Flies great! I use the GNB 350 mah 1s batteries available 6 for $23 on Amazon. I've heard they're much better batteries than those BetaFPV 300mah. Many say they don't like those 300's. Total build cost was only $75.50 SHIPPED! 😳 Challenge On! Beat that low weight and low cost! Lol 😂 😉
GNB batteries are always pretty good. In the past, betafpv sold a 300mah 1S battery that was terrible. It was one of the worst batteries I ever used (and I had many of them). BUT... the newer 300mAh batteries they sell with the BT2.0 connector actually come from a different manufacturer. They actually work pretty well. Comparable to the GNB batteries.
@@MrShutterBug Good to know, but I'm not sold on using the proprietary connector. Sure, it allows more current to pass through, but it doesn't seem to be getting adopted, so it's not for me.
@@ndmfpv1776 Banggood had their hovercraft on sale for $52 shipped. It contains the AIO FC and camera from the Mobula7 with the 19000kv motors from the Mobula6. I immediately stripped it out of the frame, through the frame away, and popped it into the R3D Shifters ION Zero Grav frame. Super strong and surprisingly stiff! If you haven't tried one of their frames you should! The designs are EPIC! They've thought of everything!!! Comes attached with it's own stretchable battery strap that will hold any size small battery you have...so much more versatile than a battery cage. 24.7 grams with 65mm props! :)
Hi, i want to convert my uruav uz80 to a 2.5 inches toothpick. I have 2 options for the motors, the first is 1102 10000kv motors, the second is 1102 18000kv motors. I don't care too much about flight tim e, more about performance, but I'm afraid that the 18000kv will be a bit too powerful. What do you think?
Hi. I already replied to your question on a different video, but I'll paste the answer here too, for other readers: 18000kv is an OK motor for 40mm props, but the KV is too high for the 2.5" or 3" props. BetaFPV made a 3" drone with those motors called the HX115 LR, and it has terrible performance. Anything over 50% throttle doesn't do anything because the little 1S battery is already at its limits. So, no don't put 18000kv on a toothpick. For 1S, I would choose the 1202.5 11500KV motors and 3016 3-blade props like the original "Babytooth". For 2S, I would go with the 10,000KV motors with 2" or 2.5" (2 blades only for 2.5"). I hope that helps. Happy building. :-)
@@WhoopEnjoyer OG Gnarly FPV 08XX 2.5" Whoop swap frame (discontinued,) Happymodel EX0802 19000kv unibell, Gemfan 65mm bi blades, Happymodel 900MHz ELRS 1S AIO 5 in 1 whoop board, Runcam Nano 3 1st gen., Gnarly FPV fixed angle TPU camera mount, Titanium mounting screws. Here you can see I flew it out 1.5 miles, and upon returning to home point I was able to still powerloop without seeing OSD battery warning. If my link doesnt show , just navigate to my channel and watch "2.5" Quad a Mile from Home (re-upload. )
@@WhoopEnjoyer couldn't remember the name of the frame earlier. It's the Gnarly Primo. First incarnation was with a CrazybeeX board, which failsafed out by my mailbox, and the mailman pulled up seconds later and ran it over. Board still works to this day, but no vtx. Frame had a nasty crack in one arm, right near motor mount, and I couldn't get another. It was such a special build that I found a way to repair the frame like it never happened, and rebuilt with the ELRS 900 AIO. The little Primo frame has a single hole on each arm, just out beyond the motor mounts, which allowed me to thread that long a** T antenna, each end, seperately through each of the rear arms. It's one of those builds with unique, favorable qualities, and it sits in mint, but dusty, condition, ready to fly to this day.
@@WhoopEnjoyer That will make a nice build. If you can find some, I recommend trying the Gemfan 3015 folding bi blade too, especially on 1S. Happy flying!
I too am building up a replacement to my babytooth that’s up in a tree. I have one of Quad66’s SkyRyder frames but haven’t decided on motors yet. Interested to hear what you think of these motors compared to the FPVcycle 1202.5’s. Also, we really don’t have a lightweight alternatives to the betafpv 1s fc do we?
I’ve had good success with the BetaFPV FCs but there are other options. The Happymodel 1S FC can work if you want the built-in vtx. Unfortunately it’s range can be super short unless you mod the Rx antenna. There are other FCs now too, but I haven’t tried them all. Nice to have options.
@@MrShutterBug have you tried the ant lite camera on it. Flys nice. I’m still getting 3 minute flights on the beta 300mah batteries and 4+ on gnb 450mah I like the ant lite because of its good night time exposure. Almost like night vision. Very impressive.
Is there a possible build in this 2.5 or 3 inch size for a Kiss fc? Would be interesting to testing that one. I know that the Kiss Fc are way more heavy than the one's of this videos.
I just lost 2 motor screws grrgrr can you tell me which motor screws these are ? I guess M1x 3 or 4 mm ?! Measured 4,7x mm length including the screwhead... Edit: M1.4*4 Screws ✅
Impressive flying as usual. I just built a Babytooth 3S, 1303's, RC nano 3 w/ Beebrain canopy, eachine Nano VTx, Rxsr, Nameless AIO412T, and I think I must have burned the VTx testing the motors (yes forgot to put the antenna on). Was torn between the Eachine nano and Nameless nano for Vtx. See you just changed stock to Nameles Vtx. Prefer it to the Eachine nano?
I would like to ask for advice for a toothpick build. I have a URUAV UZ85 that is equipped with CrazybeeX v2.2 1-2s 5A 4in1, Gemfan 2023 3-blades (0.88gr x 4) and Happymodel EX1102 10000KV 1-2s (2.8gr x 4) motors. I want to convert it to the Happymodel Sailfly-X 105mm model but I want to use the Gemfan 2512 3-blades (0.80gr x 4) instead of the Happymodel 65mm 2-blades (0.50gr x 4). The dry Sailfy-X weighs 38gr, my build would weigh 34.2gr. Can Gemfan 2512 3-blades be used on EX1102s with 5A 4in1 ESCs with a lighter drone? Risk of burning ESCs and motors? My dry drone weighs 40gr because I modded it with external VTX and strap to use different batteries, using the Tattu 450mah 2s and the strap I have a weight of 71-72gr and a maximum absorption from the ammeter of 12-15A with very aggressive driving . in theory on a lighter drone using larger propellers but with a lower pitch the motors with high KV and high voltage would spin better and with less effort generating more thrust and absorbing less, correct me if I'm wrong.
It sounds like it should work. Having larger props will make it quieter and will probably give it longer flight times. You might want to consider using 65mm (2.5 inch) 2-blade props instead, since they will be lighter and may have better handling (less torque required to change rotational speed during fast moves, prop wash, etc...). 5A per motor will definitely be enough to fly with. If there is any danger to the ESC, it would be during a hard crash or when using turtle mode in a situation where the props can't spin. Those situations sometimes heat up the ESCs more than normal flying. You'll probably be OK, but there's never any guarantees in this hobby. Good luck!
New to your channel but enjoying your videos. I notice you are definitely very Betafpv intense. Any reason? Sponsor? I'm VERY new to FPV drones and recently bought the Tinyhawk 2 RTF kit and have already decided I'm jumping in further! LOL
good evening Mr. i have a question. this little quad , has it's own receiver or it is integrated into the fc? i mean , if i buy a Frsky lbt version, is it possible to swap to an fcc version? or , is it possible to add a separate receiver? thank you for your answer.
If the FC has a built in FrSky receiver then it will be FCC or LBT. I don’t think you can change that. If, however, you get the No Rx version of the FC, then you can add whatever receiver you want. Good luck.
Hi, my hx100se betaflight 3.5 suddenly reset itself and I had to setup betaflight settings from zero. I forgot to do a backup cli dump. After setting up everything in Betaflight 3.5, she doesnt fly the same anymore. I get wobbles etc. Can anyone share is cli dump or pid tune foe me? TIA 😊
Thanks for the vid Shutterbug! That was some crazy flying!! I have one question: do you need to solder the runcam nano 3 onto the board or can you just plug it in?
I soldered it. If you want plug-n-play, then HappyModel and NewBeeDrone both makes 1S FCs that have a plug, but you have to double check that the RunCam camera comes with the matching plug. That's not always true. Good luck.
Never too old2learn! 💪👍 Intimidating ppl? Yeh almost got into a fight with these teenagers in a park. I had to explain the intelligence between ppl that can fly & ppl that can‘t . 🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ I received recently the new version of the BetaFPV HX-100. It even has a 8mb black box, sweet. How to I download what’s on the black box? The new HX-100, flew it on a 3S 520 & got 7min+ & I was ripping dat thing through the park! Really cool. The USB is a problem with the HX-100. My first HX-100 landed on the battery which the caused the USB to not function 🤦🏻♂️. I‘m gonna ship it back to BetaFPV & all their parts that malfunctioned. For analysis & recycling 🤓. Great review, stay safe, happy fly’n & take care 🤓😉😘
Rotate that bad boy 90 degrees and toilet tank mount the lipo! Personal preference. But flies way better. There’s nothing preventing it now that you’ve already flipped the flight controller.
I do that on some of my other quads, but this one has some slots on the bottom that work really well with my new battery strap, but wouldn’t work if rotated.
the Betafpv C01 Pro = original Hx100 SE FPV Camera has waay to much FOV, right ? the RC nano 3 has less FOV ( better ) and Colors are better ?! ( at least by low light I think..)
The HX100 SE normally comes with an M01 camera. The C01 Pro is bigger and heavier, but has a better picture quality. There is also a "C01" (not "pro") camera now, which is small like the M01 camera, but better. I agree the M01 has poor light handling. The C01, C01 Pro, and Runcam Nano 3 are all better options. As for FOV, the Nano3 is also quite wide, and that's how I like it. You need a wide FOV to give spatial awareness when flying close to obstacles like this. Cheers.
@@MrShutterBug the original Hx100 SE, M01 camera has a weird FOV.. I guess it's only the fisheye effect which makes it look weird... Got the C01 Pro today...
@@MrShutterBug Can you recommend a "M7 Lens" like 1.8 to 2.1 mm - huge FOV, less fisheye ? Backstory: I just conformal coated + silicone glued my 1S TP.. After flying in the rain ( really awesome TBH ) I got water in the lens.. ( hard to make the lens itself Waterproof.. The PCB is dry..) After drying, the lens "is making weird shadows" when I hold it against light..
I have a different 2S with 65mm props and 1102 motors. It is fun too. The difference is that the 2S is faster and suffers from less voltage sag, but it is also heavier. So the 2S is more fun in a larger space with room to rip. The 1S can maneuver anywhere, even in my tight backyard. 😁
@@jeffro1005 unfortunately they discontinued the HX100 SE. It’s a shame. If your FC died then you should be able to replace it. I don’t think the replacement has to be exactly the same FC. Good luck. .
I'm using the BT2.0 connector on this drone. BetaFPV and TinyWhoop sell batteries with that connector. The GNB batteries come with the PH2.0 connector, so I had to change them. Here's a video about that mod: th-cam.com/video/nmwOxncToJM/w-d-xo.html
I kept blowing the fc on my hx100se, I switched to the one off my mob 6 so now have integrated vtx and I'm running crossfire think it came in at 29g with the HQ props.
I was one of the first to preorder it, but it still hasn't come. It'll be lighter than the Vista, but still too heavy for a micro drone, IMO. I haven't decided what to build with it yet.
I like my hx100se. However my board reboots once it hits 3.2v, which one hits almost each time climb or make a tight fast turn. Once it resets, the osd/vtx disappear and the quad falls. Did you also have such experience?
Hey dude, do you run rpm filter? I´ve got A LOT of problems with my escs... Do you think you might help me? I feel like i´ve tried everything you could but it´s still not working! -I run the Diatone Mamba f411aio board- These are the problems: -everytime i hit "read setup" the Blheli / JESC configurator only detects a random number of escs (23, 124, 234, 134 etc.) -Every once in a while it pretty randomly detects all 4 escs and i try to flash JESC (bidirectional dhsot) on them: -After flashing it says**FLASH*FAILED** behind the version number of each esc. -Now i cant even reflash the original non bidirectional DShot... This is what i´ve already tried: -Changing the Usb Cable (to a brand new one) -Trying to flash on a different computer -swaped the hole aio board (to a brand new one) -switched to Dshot150 cause according to bardwell its the most stable one -(emailing Bardwell, short chat under a youtube video with UAV-Tech, just texted the owner of JESC, emailed my local shop...) I literally have no idea on what else i could do. I´ve invested so freaking much time and money, here is no way that this quad won´t fly. I have to figure it out somehow. I can´t give up! Gosh sorry for bringing all this negative energy here but im sooo incredible frustraded. I´ve been trying to figure this out forever Thanks man!
That sounds frustrating. Sometimes the ESCs can get messed up by a bad flash, and then attempt to reflash will fail. This is usually caused by the fact that the configurator wants to verify that it is flashing the correct version of the firmware onto the ESCs (O-H-5, C-H-15, etc...) so it tries to read the previous version , but the read fails because it is in a bad state. The fix is to double check that you know what the correct version is for your ESC, and then click the check box that says "ignore inappropriate MCU and Layout", then Flash All. That has solved it for me in the past. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug I´ve tried that many times actually... sadly;) Actually somth really weird because it doesnt recommend the esc most of the time, even though i switched like everything. Computer, fc, esc, cable software... Everything. Dude i´m so lost right now. I feel like there is nothing i can do!
@@MrShutterBug You think a 100g TP3 flys better without rpm filtering?? First time i hear that. Might spare me a lot of work, even though i want my quad to fly as good as possible - just like it did
That's why you dont follow the hype,sorry for being blunt,always fly default and then when you feel comfortable and knowledgeable enough...then attempt to flash a different protocol
Sorry to bash you shutterbug, your vids are dope, but you gotta put a fly time on your OSD. Your edits are cool,.but your battery voltages are all over the place. People watching this could be led to believe that this thing flies like you do for 5 or 6 minutes. The way you present the quad and it's capabilities are deceiving. Just saying. Maybe that's why I get bunk gear from betaFPV, who knows.
D. D. When I do a review, I show a complete unedited flight to let you see what it’s like from the start of the battery to the end. You can go watch my review of this drone if you want (th-cam.com/video/awtXh2PL87k/w-d-xo.html).
Large winged insects aren't the only ones having all the fun now. 🥳
@RAGNAROK FPV I use lipo setting to charge. I just charge them at maybe 1.5A.
@RAGNAROK FPV it's 1s. I just set the charger to 1s
@RAGNAROK FPV if you can find/buy/make an 18650 case, than solder an xt60 or 30 connector. Thats what I would do. Either that or buy an 18650 charger.
@@sylaswojciechowski6895 You'd likely have trouble with unnecessary resistance from spring-based battery contacts, mechanical jerk from maneuvers creating a momentary contact gap that would reset the electronics during flight and cause a crash, and at 1S every extra gram of AUW has a greater negative effect on flight dynamics. The less resistance and complexity between the power source and the motor coils, the more reliable and efficient the flight system.
@@mistercohaagen I thought that Ragnork fpv was just talking about charging, not flying, it would be funny to see a 18650 charger sticking out the bottom of a toothpick though 😄. I guess he could just solder a battery lead to the 18650. I didnt think of that, im guessing thats how kabob did it?
Out of all the people that I watch fly these micro 1S setups yours best showcases what they are capable of. Keep doing those varied tricks.
Nice! When Nate rips the backyard, the dog gets locked up, the birds 'n the bees run and hide and the trees say "if he makes a mistake, we got got it!"
...and the trees say, "Come over here, it'll be fine!" :-P
Is it just me, or does your flying get better with each video you upload? All jokes aside, your dvr is the highlight of the video for sure!
Unbelievable what is possible in a very small yard. It surely ads to the feel of speed and damn those trees are high! I'm also only flying sub 250 and preferably 1to 2s. I've a Mindblow everytime I see what is possible with a 1s toothpick
FYI, they now ship with the new canopy in black...just got mine yesterday! Tilt is 23 degrees, and now weighs (DSMX version) 28g and has Gemfan props. The sucky thing is still that it only attaches on the sides so it's jello city (and stresses the plastic bolts). I did a small dab of hot glue to stick it to the frame, but yeah, would be nice to have the best of all worlds. :P
oh mine, ur backyard ripping is getting more and more exciting to watch now!
So much information in these vids ! The newbeedrone canopy saved my mobulite7 from jello thank you!
I thought I was getting good at flying my BabyTooth, then I saw your flight.. Dang mang!! Yup, I still kinda suck lol.. I have a hard time power looping like you do with it.. 1S takes a little technique to do a great loop.. Tell ya what though.. I LOVE how it orbits. I can get a real fast orbit going.. Loving it!!!
The BabyTooth is so good! I look forward to having one up and running again soon. And dude, there no need to compare anything. There's plenty of things I suck at too. Just get out there and have fun!
I have seen some very light frames and builds on channel quad 66.
1s wow great flying!
Keen as to see how the flywoo 1202.5's perform for you! Im in the process of building a 3s primo3 running flywoo 1202.5 5800kv
Love that flying! Looks pretty smooth and controlled;)
Great video Mr. Toothpick bug! lol 😜 My 1s Toothpick weighs in at exactly 24.7 grams, ready to fly, without a battery! I used the incredible R3D Shifters ION Zero GRAV frame... Super durable, but very light and especially ultra low profile! The whole Toothpick is less than 1" thick! No big camera sticking up... It's slim and trim! Frame is made in NYC, NY, USA! Those guys are design geniuses! 😎 🤘 Custom service is a 10 also! Flies great! I use the GNB 350 mah 1s batteries available 6 for $23 on Amazon. I've heard they're much better batteries than those BetaFPV 300mah. Many say they don't like those 300's.
Total build cost was only $75.50 SHIPPED! 😳
Challenge On! Beat that low weight and low cost! Lol 😂 😉
GNB batteries are always pretty good. In the past, betafpv sold a 300mah 1S battery that was terrible. It was one of the worst batteries I ever used (and I had many of them). BUT... the newer 300mAh batteries they sell with the BT2.0 connector actually come from a different manufacturer. They actually work pretty well. Comparable to the GNB batteries.
@@MrShutterBug Good to know, but I'm not sold on using the proprietary connector. Sure, it allows more current to pass through, but it doesn't seem to be getting adopted, so it's not for me.
Scoot Roter what is your build!? That sounds like it would be fun!
@@ndmfpv1776 Banggood had their hovercraft on sale for $52 shipped. It contains the AIO FC and camera from the Mobula7 with the 19000kv motors from the Mobula6. I immediately stripped it out of the frame, through the frame away, and popped it into the R3D Shifters ION Zero Grav frame. Super strong and surprisingly stiff! If you haven't tried one of their frames you should! The designs are EPIC! They've thought of everything!!! Comes attached with it's own stretchable battery strap that will hold any size small battery you have...so much more versatile than a battery cage. 24.7 grams with 65mm props! :)
You sir are a beast. Awesome ripp
Hi, i want to convert my uruav uz80 to a 2.5 inches toothpick. I have 2 options for the motors, the first is 1102 10000kv motors, the second is 1102 18000kv motors. I don't care too much about flight tim e, more about performance, but I'm afraid that the 18000kv will be a bit too powerful. What do you think?
Hi. I already replied to your question on a different video, but I'll paste the answer here too, for other readers:
18000kv is an OK motor for 40mm props, but the KV is too high for the 2.5" or 3" props. BetaFPV made a 3" drone with those motors called the HX115 LR, and it has terrible performance. Anything over 50% throttle doesn't do anything because the little 1S battery is already at its limits. So, no don't put 18000kv on a toothpick. For 1S, I would choose the 1202.5 11500KV motors and 3016 3-blade props like the original "Babytooth". For 2S, I would go with the 10,000KV motors with 2" or 2.5" (2 blades only for 2.5"). I hope that helps. Happy building. :-)
Awesome flying bro
Holly shit looks fun and fast!!!
Nice quad, nice freestyle and Nice music!! 👌👏👍
I needs me a Toothpick! 👍
Me too 😅
Damnnn that was awesome ~ love the freestyle
I just finished a 2.5" build that comes in at 23.2g dry weight. Cant wait to fly it fpv tomorrow. Feels pretty sporty LOS in the house.
Setup please 😀
@@WhoopEnjoyer OG Gnarly FPV 08XX 2.5" Whoop swap frame (discontinued,) Happymodel EX0802 19000kv unibell, Gemfan 65mm bi blades, Happymodel 900MHz ELRS 1S AIO 5 in 1 whoop board, Runcam Nano 3 1st gen., Gnarly FPV fixed angle TPU camera mount, Titanium mounting screws. Here you can see I flew it out 1.5 miles, and upon returning to home point I was able to still powerloop without seeing OSD battery warning. If my link doesnt show , just navigate to my channel and watch "2.5" Quad a Mile from Home (re-upload. )
@@WhoopEnjoyer couldn't remember the name of the frame earlier. It's the Gnarly Primo. First incarnation was with a CrazybeeX board, which failsafed out by my mailbox, and the mailman pulled up seconds later and ran it over. Board still works to this day, but no vtx. Frame had a nasty crack in one arm, right near motor mount, and I couldn't get another. It was such a special build that I found a way to repair the frame like it never happened, and rebuilt with the ELRS 900 AIO. The little Primo frame has a single hole on each arm, just out beyond the motor mounts, which allowed me to thread that long a** T antenna, each end, seperately through each of the rear arms. It's one of those builds with unique, favorable qualities, and it sits in mint, but dusty, condition, ready to fly to this day.
@@24kJamesthank you! ive just orderd rcinpower 1202.5 11250 crux frame HM x12 elrs 3018 props and runcam thumb! im looking forward to test it
@@WhoopEnjoyer That will make a nice build. If you can find some, I recommend trying the Gemfan 3015 folding bi blade too, especially on 1S. Happy flying!
I too am building up a replacement to my babytooth that’s up in a tree. I have one of Quad66’s SkyRyder frames but haven’t decided on motors yet. Interested to hear what you think of these motors compared to the FPVcycle 1202.5’s. Also, we really don’t have a lightweight alternatives to the betafpv 1s fc do we?
I’ve had good success with the BetaFPV FCs but there are other options. The Happymodel 1S FC can work if you want the built-in vtx. Unfortunately it’s range can be super short unless you mod the Rx antenna. There are other FCs now too, but I haven’t tried them all. Nice to have options.
The speed of the orbit at 2:04
Love my hx100 se !!! I can’t believe it’s no longer made. Any inside information about a successor (same size weight and 1s) ?
Yeah, it's a shame because the HX100 SE was one of their best flying drones. Hopefully they replace it soon.
@@MrShutterBug have you tried the ant lite camera on it. Flys nice. I’m still getting 3 minute flights on the beta 300mah batteries and 4+ on gnb 450mah I like the ant lite because of its good night time exposure. Almost like night vision. Very impressive.
@@jeffro1005 not yet. I have the Ant Lite camera from FPVCycle but haven't gotten around to using it yet.
Great Vid, will do some upgrade on my Hx100 SE soon :D
Canopy shipping cost to germany is about 14 € :/...
but i might buy the same VTX you have !
FYI: same build with crazybee f4 lite + ex1102 + mobula6 canopy it's 27g dry 🙃
That's exactly why I love mine it tears it up 😁🙌🙌🔥🔥🔥👌
Amazing flight !!!
Ultralight Picklpick 2.5 inch frame, 3,4gr!
Epic dive !!
I want to get one, but in worried about that 5a FC blowing an ESC alll too soon . Seems to be the trend for all the micros ive purchased.
FPVCycle sells a 1S FC that’s rated for 8A per motor. That might give you a bit more safety factor?
Is there a possible build in this 2.5 or 3 inch size for a Kiss fc? Would be interesting to testing that one. I know that the Kiss Fc are way more heavy than the one's of this videos.
🤯mindblowing controll
What was that song you were playing during the flight footage? I love your choice of music consistently!
I just lost 2 motor screws grrgrr can you tell me which motor screws these are ?
I guess M1x 3 or 4 mm ?!
Measured 4,7x mm length including the screwhead...
Edit: M1.4*4 Screws ✅
Round head: a.aliexpress.com/_B183FU
Flat Head ( better option, lighter )
a.aliexpress.com/_B0wKv4
you should start your own company so i can buy BNFs directly from you! lol i love your builds, look like they fly so well
Thanks. I get that a lot, but I'm quite content to share information freely and let FPV remain just a hobby for me.
Impressive flying as usual. I just built a Babytooth 3S, 1303's, RC nano 3 w/ Beebrain canopy, eachine Nano VTx, Rxsr, Nameless AIO412T, and I think I must have burned the VTx testing the motors (yes forgot to put the antenna on). Was torn between the Eachine nano and Nameless nano for Vtx. See you just changed stock to Nameles Vtx. Prefer it to the Eachine nano?
The NamelessRC vtx is a little smaller than the Eachine vtx, but both have worked fine for me in the past.
I dont know how you get things this light. I was STOKED that i got my 3" ba ytooth down to 55g AUW. With 1202.5 11,600kv motors.
I would like to ask for advice for a toothpick build.
I have a URUAV UZ85 that is equipped with CrazybeeX v2.2 1-2s 5A 4in1, Gemfan 2023 3-blades (0.88gr x 4) and Happymodel EX1102 10000KV 1-2s (2.8gr x 4) motors.
I want to convert it to the Happymodel Sailfly-X 105mm model but I want to use the Gemfan 2512 3-blades (0.80gr x 4) instead of the Happymodel 65mm 2-blades (0.50gr x 4).
The dry Sailfy-X weighs 38gr, my build would weigh 34.2gr.
Can Gemfan 2512 3-blades be used on EX1102s with 5A 4in1 ESCs with a lighter drone?
Risk of burning ESCs and motors?
My dry drone weighs 40gr because I modded it with external VTX and strap to use different batteries, using the Tattu 450mah 2s and the strap I have a weight of 71-72gr and a maximum absorption from the ammeter of 12-15A with very aggressive driving .
in theory on a lighter drone using larger propellers but with a lower pitch the motors with high KV and high voltage would spin better and with less effort generating more thrust and absorbing less, correct me if I'm wrong.
It sounds like it should work. Having larger props will make it quieter and will probably give it longer flight times. You might want to consider using 65mm (2.5 inch) 2-blade props instead, since they will be lighter and may have better handling (less torque required to change rotational speed during fast moves, prop wash, etc...). 5A per motor will definitely be enough to fly with. If there is any danger to the ESC, it would be during a hard crash or when using turtle mode in a situation where the props can't spin. Those situations sometimes heat up the ESCs more than normal flying. You'll probably be OK, but there's never any guarantees in this hobby. Good luck!
Seriously its cool...... So fast.....🔥
Great video. Sorry you weren’t able to retrieve your 1S 3” build!
New to your channel but enjoying your videos. I notice you are definitely very Betafpv intense. Any reason? Sponsor? I'm VERY new to FPV drones and recently bought the Tinyhawk 2 RTF kit and have already decided I'm jumping in further! LOL
How are the flywoo 1202.5 11500kv Motors compared to the 1202.5 from FPV cycle?
The Flywoo motors are working fine, but they sound a little noisier than the FPV Cycle motors. I can only notice that on the bench. They fly fine.
Thank you very much 👍
Could you please give a link for motors?
good evening Mr. i have a question. this little quad , has it's own receiver or it is integrated into the fc? i mean , if i buy a Frsky lbt version, is it possible to swap to an fcc version? or , is it possible to add a separate receiver? thank you for your answer.
If the FC has a built in FrSky receiver then it will be FCC or LBT. I don’t think you can change that. If, however, you get the No Rx version of the FC, then you can add whatever receiver you want. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug PERFECT. Thank you for the answer❤
Hi, my hx100se betaflight 3.5 suddenly reset itself and I had to setup betaflight settings from zero. I forgot to do a backup cli dump. After setting up everything in Betaflight 3.5, she doesnt fly the same anymore. I get wobbles etc. Can anyone share is cli dump or pid tune foe me? TIA 😊
Here's a full dump for the HX100 SE on Betaflight 3.5.7. Good luck!
drive.google.com/file/d/1chSVFP6GynOqLxrzFb5BhCvFd4eqXxyK/view?usp=sharing
Thanks for the vid Shutterbug! That was some crazy flying!! I have one question: do you need to solder the runcam nano 3 onto the board or can you just plug it in?
I soldered it. If you want plug-n-play, then HappyModel and NewBeeDrone both makes 1S FCs that have a plug, but you have to double check that the RunCam camera comes with the matching plug. That's not always true. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug Thanks!
Never too old2learn! 💪👍
Intimidating ppl? Yeh almost got into a fight with these teenagers in a park. I had to explain the intelligence between ppl that can fly & ppl that can‘t . 🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
I received recently the new version of the BetaFPV HX-100. It even has a 8mb black box, sweet. How to I download what’s on the black box?
The new HX-100, flew it on a 3S 520 & got 7min+ & I was ripping dat thing through the park! Really cool.
The USB is a problem with the HX-100. My first HX-100 landed on the battery which the caused the USB to not function 🤦🏻♂️. I‘m gonna ship it back to BetaFPV & all their parts that malfunctioned. For analysis & recycling 🤓.
Great review, stay safe, happy fly’n & take care 🤓😉😘
What scale is that in the video?
What parts are you using to build the new 3” baby tooth? I’m looking to build one myself and want to do it right.
I suggest building it like this: th-cam.com/video/obns6k1xhIc/w-d-xo.html
Wtf, i got to check my youtube playspeed when the dvr started.
Haha! I never mess with the speed in my videos. This is 100% real-time. ;-)
Could you please post a diff of your tune?
I actually bought some new beta frames as I couldn't find any that would be light enough.
nikotttin it’s the factory tune for the HX100 SE. You can find it here: betafpv.freshdesk.com/support/search?term=Hx100+se
@@MrShutterBug I was pleasantly surprised at the tune and setup of the SE. It uses a lot of the PMB "tricks" and seems to be a solid tune!
Super fun! flying better than my 1s 65mm.
Rotate that bad boy 90 degrees and toilet tank mount the lipo! Personal preference. But flies way better. There’s nothing preventing it now that you’ve already flipped the flight controller.
I do that on some of my other quads, but this one has some slots on the bottom that work really well with my new battery strap, but wouldn’t work if rotated.
the Betafpv C01 Pro = original Hx100 SE FPV Camera has waay to much FOV, right ?
the RC nano 3 has less FOV ( better ) and Colors are better ?! ( at least by low light I think..)
The HX100 SE normally comes with an M01 camera. The C01 Pro is bigger and heavier, but has a better picture quality. There is also a "C01" (not "pro") camera now, which is small like the M01 camera, but better. I agree the M01 has poor light handling. The C01, C01 Pro, and Runcam Nano 3 are all better options. As for FOV, the Nano3 is also quite wide, and that's how I like it. You need a wide FOV to give spatial awareness when flying close to obstacles like this. Cheers.
@@MrShutterBug the original Hx100 SE, M01 camera has a weird FOV.. I guess it's only the fisheye effect which makes it look weird...
Got the C01 Pro today...
@@MrShutterBug Can you recommend a "M7 Lens" like 1.8 to 2.1 mm - huge FOV, less fisheye ?
Backstory:
I just conformal coated + silicone glued my 1S TP..
After flying in the rain ( really awesome TBH )
I got water in the lens.. ( hard to make the lens itself Waterproof.. The PCB is dry..)
After drying, the lens "is making weird shadows" when I hold it against light..
@@MrShutterBug have you seen the "Caddx Ant Lite" ? ( not buy able right now )
th-cam.com/video/y8esagavqHc/w-d-xo.html
Damn.... now I'm thinking i need a ductless quad for my 1s batteries🤪
Hi nate. Do you typically fly with the spi receiver on your 1s picks, or do you add an external receiver?
Have you tried 2s on this setup ? With a 2s fc
I have a different 2S with 65mm props and 1102 motors. It is fun too. The difference is that the 2S is faster and suffers from less voltage sag, but it is also heavier. So the 2S is more fun in a larger space with room to rip. The 1S can maneuver anywhere, even in my tight backyard. 😁
@@MrShutterBug I can’t seem to find another dsmx hx100 se. My board went bad somehow. Thinking of putting another 2s fc. any suggestions?
@@jeffro1005 unfortunately they discontinued the HX100 SE. It’s a shame. If your FC died then you should be able to replace it. I don’t think the replacement has to be exactly the same FC. Good luck. .
Pickle pick 1.5mm thick frame
Batteries shown don’t have the same connector as your battery lead. Do they still fit or did you have to mod them?
I'm using the BT2.0 connector on this drone. BetaFPV and TinyWhoop sell batteries with that connector. The GNB batteries come with the PH2.0 connector, so I had to change them. Here's a video about that mod: th-cam.com/video/nmwOxncToJM/w-d-xo.html
I kept blowing the fc on my hx100se, I switched to the one off my mob 6 so now have integrated vtx and I'm running crossfire think it came in at 29g with the HQ props.
Are you building a dji nebula setup?
If so 2s seems the only option if we're trying to be bending the power weight ratio any, two 250mah , babytooth setup? Betafpv v3 2-4s board.
I was one of the first to preorder it, but it still hasn't come. It'll be lighter than the Vista, but still too heavy for a micro drone, IMO. I haven't decided what to build with it yet.
Sick flying
Superb!
What’s your pids
I like my hx100se. However my board reboots once it hits 3.2v, which one hits almost each time climb or make a tight fast turn. Once it resets, the osd/vtx disappear and the quad falls.
Did you also have such experience?
Bummer. No I have not experienced that problem with the BetaFPV 1S FC.
Good video, thanx.
btw, crazy piloting !!!😱
Awesome! 👍👍👍
That thing hauls ass now!
Can you please show a build video I have the same quad I would love to convert it like you did it flys amazing 👏
Watch the video on my 3” babytooth. I went into more detail in that one. Sorry I don’t have any step-by-step videos. Those take forever to make.
great ! thank you :)
Hey dude,
do you run rpm filter?
I´ve got A LOT of problems with my escs... Do you think you might help me? I feel like i´ve tried everything you could but it´s still not working!
-I run the Diatone Mamba f411aio board-
These are the problems:
-everytime i hit "read setup" the Blheli / JESC configurator only detects a random number of escs (23, 124, 234, 134 etc.)
-Every once in a while it pretty randomly detects all 4 escs and i try to flash JESC (bidirectional dhsot) on them:
-After flashing it says**FLASH*FAILED** behind the version number of each esc.
-Now i cant even reflash the original non bidirectional DShot...
This is what i´ve already tried:
-Changing the Usb Cable (to a brand new one)
-Trying to flash on a different computer
-swaped the hole aio board (to a brand new one)
-switched to Dshot150 cause according to bardwell its the most stable one
-(emailing Bardwell, short chat under a youtube video with UAV-Tech, just texted the owner of JESC, emailed my local shop...)
I literally have no idea on what else i could do. I´ve invested so freaking much time and money, here is no way that this quad won´t fly. I have to figure it out somehow. I can´t give up! Gosh sorry for bringing all this negative energy here but im sooo incredible frustraded. I´ve been trying to figure this out forever
Thanks man!
That sounds frustrating. Sometimes the ESCs can get messed up by a bad flash, and then attempt to reflash will fail. This is usually caused by the fact that the configurator wants to verify that it is flashing the correct version of the firmware onto the ESCs (O-H-5, C-H-15, etc...) so it tries to read the previous version , but the read fails because it is in a bad state. The fix is to double check that you know what the correct version is for your ESC, and then click the check box that says "ignore inappropriate MCU and Layout", then Flash All. That has solved it for me in the past. Good luck.
No RPM filtering on this one. I don't think it needs it and RPM filtering takes a lot of CPU on these little F411 chips.
@@MrShutterBug I´ve tried that many times actually... sadly;) Actually somth really weird because it doesnt recommend the esc most of the time, even though i switched like everything. Computer, fc, esc, cable software... Everything. Dude i´m so lost right now. I feel like there is nothing i can do!
@@MrShutterBug You think a 100g TP3 flys better without rpm filtering?? First time i hear that. Might spare me a lot of work, even though i want my quad to fly as good as possible - just like it did
That's why you dont follow the hype,sorry for being blunt,always fly default and then when you feel comfortable and knowledgeable enough...then attempt to flash a different protocol
Excellent 👌
What fc are you using with this?
It's gotta be the Betafpv 1s board. It's very light
BetaFPV F4 1S
Hope the top of a tree isn't in its future!
There is a nice frame : halcondesigns.co.uk/product/kestrel-3″-with-tpu-canopy/
Si nice... A bad thing for a new start whith a old machine
great video but the flight music was sooo bad ngl
Sorry to bash you shutterbug, your vids are dope, but you gotta put a fly time on your OSD. Your edits are cool,.but your battery voltages are all over the place. People watching this could be led to believe that this thing flies like you do for 5 or 6 minutes. The way you present the quad and it's capabilities are deceiving. Just saying. Maybe that's why I get bunk gear from betaFPV, who knows.
D. D. When I do a review, I show a complete unedited flight to let you see what it’s like from the start of the battery to the end. You can go watch my review of this drone if you want (th-cam.com/video/awtXh2PL87k/w-d-xo.html).
tHIS FRAME i BROKEN 3 NOT DURABLE !
It's supposed to be light here, not durable
@@ELValenin Yes, thank Bro