Your videos are outstanding! I own a 1988 FXSTC Softail. I'm the original owner with only 25K miles on it. Never beat on this 36 year old bike. Brought it in for a small oil leak to my local Harley Dealership. After putting $3,500 into it for a replacement of the Main Seal on the motor. They delivered it home. I didn't ride it right away, because I wanted to confirm there were no oil leaks. Much to my dismay, it was still leaking on the paper towels for the next 3 days. So they picked it up again. After watching Parts 1 and 2 of your Harley Primary Leaks, showed me the inner guts to the Primary, which I've never seen before, and learned a lot. They've had it for a couple of weeks again. Still waiting to hear the cause of the existing leak. So I've prepared myself for the replacement of the Inner Primary Cover, and all the labor involved. Fingers crossed that is not the problem. Please keep these educational videos coming! I just became a new Subscriber. As a suggestion, please turn your radio off in the background. It does get annoying at times.
Thank you for subscribing. You own a great bike, the FX models look and run great. Sorry to hear you still have a leak. Harley uses a big O ring between the engine case and inner primary. Over time those o rings don't seal correctly, due to age and heat expansion. If you look at part 4 of that series you'll see i replace that o ring with a gasket. This has been a problem since they started using that o ring. I've replaced hundreds of them over the years which stops that annoying leak. Since you're the original owner you know everything that's been done to the bike, so I doubt you have a damaged inner primary. I hope they get it taken care for you. Thanks again for subscribing, thanks for watching and ride safe.
Thank you for explaining the reasoning behind your diagnosis/prognosis of problems. A mechanic is only as good as her/his ability to figure out just what the hell happened, and what it's gonna take to fix it. Watching you work strengthens my skill set. Keep up the good work.👍
Glad you liked the video and thanks for you're input. That's why I do these videos to show cause and affect and final repair. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Another great description on removing inner primary, No BS just good quality sound, Pics and advice, you remind me of my old Voc tech instructor. Who had the patience of a Saint-LoL Scott from FL
Thanks for the compliment. No need for BS. I do this so people will learn to work on their bikes themselves. No gimmicks needed for that. Very glad you liked the video, and once again thanks for the compliment. Thanks for watching.
Very good video ! The only thing surprised me is your using impact on Compensator Nut & Clutch Basket Nut! Impacts beats TheHell out of rotor \ stator ,every HD Manual I ve read states clearly ,no impact ! Why risk it . Its not hard to put the nylon lock up tool in and break Comp Nut loose with a breaker bar . Your video quality is excellent as are your thorough instructions .Greatly appreciated !
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for your input. I started using a impact about 30 years ago after years of using breaker bars. After doing hundreds of them it's never damaged anything. As long as you lock up the compensator gear and ring gear on the clutch basket it works fine. Thanks again for your comment and thanks for watching.
I know it’s an older video. Great video, only thing I didn’t agree with was the use of an impact due to possible damage to the magnets on the rotor. I have mixed feelings on it due to the high torque required but the hammering of the impact does have the ability to cause damage. Would love to hear anyone else’s thoughts as I know Harley master techs who only use hand tools and some use impacts.
i have a 99 FXDX that has a tiny oil drip under it a few minutes after I park it. Pulled the primary to look for leaks and found damage around that there was damage around the hole where the bearing is located. Looked like a hex nut had gotten down in there maybe when previous owner was installing saddlebags. They apparently tried to fix the damage with J-B weld. I searched the internet with vengeance and only fond one place that had a new inner primary cover. When it arrived it was in fact NOT the correct part and was defective. So I've just learned to live with my ride marking her spot wherever she goes. It's only about 2 inches in diameter, so every now and then I have to add a little fluid to the primary. I'm telling you this because that may be why the guy didn't put a new inner primary cover on there. It's as scarce as unicorns !
True enough the older the bike gets the harder the parts are to find. I use a place in Florida. The name is Oz cycles. Since I've found them I've bought a number of things from them. All were in excellent shape and everything comes with a 30 day money back guarantee. I'll try and send you the link for them. They may not have one in stock now but they restock quickly. I really like these guys and since I work on older bikes I use them.
Love your videos, im starting today on leaky inner, have seals and outter gasket, but im afraid a bolt walked , one of the five long bolts, maybe locktight pr jb weld in there, but im sure i will need help
Very educational. Those parts are prob expenssive. I would like to see you talk cost of parts in your videos. Maybe you do already. I just haven't watched them all.
Thank for the comment and suggestion. I have talked about pricing in some of my videos, but not all of them. On this bike the inner and outer primary combined would run roughly above$700 from Harley. They can be found cheaper with aftermarket parts, but some of the aftermarkets I've found are not the same quality as Harley. Which is unfortunate. I will bear your suggestion in mind as I do more videos. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching.
I found a couple of stripped threads on a used bikes inner primary bolt holes, theres 5 bolts, i tried jb weld, but have some heliocoils, whats your recommendation Sir? I definitely enjoy your clear and precise videos, subscribed!! Thank you
@@Fredscat thanks for subscribing. The 5 holes that are stripped are they in the case and trans where the inner primary bolts to the case? If so I would get a tap, I believe those holes are 1/4 X 20, try to retap the 5 holes. If the holes have gotten to big for the bolts and are still not tight, than try the heli coils. Make sure you clean the threads on the bolts before installing. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Enjoy your videos especially the informative way you show tools and methods. Hey, could you explain proper drive belt tension in a video? And rear wheel alignment given that the axle and eccentric washers don’t seem to align perfectly.
Thank you I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. I can definitely do a video on proper belt tension and rear wheel alignment. Thanks for the suggestion and thank you for watching.
I enjoyed the 2 parts of this series and I subscribed and hit the bell so I can see part 3 and other videos. Your presentation is nicely paced and you speak clearly. This past summer of 2021 I had decided to redo my charging system and do a transmission and primary reseal. My bike is a 2003 Electra Glide Ultra, and this bike you're working on looks like it seals the same way as mine. By this I mean that it uses the bolts with locking tabs. What it also probably means is that you will have to use Silicone RTV sealant to seal between the primary and the engine and transmission cases. If he bottom bolt of the primary probably goes all the way through like mine, you will have to put sealant on the threads too. The two front bolts don't need to be sealed. I've put several thousand miles since I did this and she's now a very presentable machine. I've been wondering if bolts with thread locker and an O-ring can be used to seal on the face where the bolt head sits, just like the newer ones. This would mean that you don't need to use RTV between the castings. But what I did seems to work well so maybe it's fine. The other thing I learned is that when you put the compensator and clutch assembly back on, be sure to use the Loctite 262 as called out in the manual. Don't just use any red Loctite. 262 is not found in auto stores, you can get it from Granger or online. Harley specifies it for a good reason and I'm glad I made the effort to obtain it and use it. I'm waiting so I can watch your video on putting this back together. Keep up the good work!
Glad you are enjoying the videos, and thank you for watching and subscribing. I usually don't need RTV for the inner. I use a gaskets made by James Gasket company. That way I can eliminate the o-ring between the engine case and inner primary. It works very well. It will be a little bit before part 3 is put up. But I have 3 projects going on now. Thanks again for watching and subscribing.
Hey love watching you. Question fr you on a 1998 1340 fatboy I order new pistol what direction do the arrows go? Should the rear point back not forward because of the intake valves verses the exhaust size difference?
Thanks for the question. I'm guessing you bought pistons and not pistols for your Evo. For stock pistons the arrows always point to the front of the engine. Glad you like the videos and thanks for watching.
I would like to see the best way to replace my rear drive belt on my 2001 Electra Glide Classic 88. Plus I have 32,000 miles on it should I replace it yep I will .
Thanks for the comment, I've already made a video on that. On my channel you'll find it in final belt drive. That belt will usually last 100,000 miles if it's had proper adjustment. Thanks for watching and ride safe
@@marceldubois872 no there isn't a gasket in between the engine and trans. What most likely is leaking is the oil pan. The bolts that hold the oil pan have tendency to loosen up and when they to you get a like. Thanks for the question. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
@marceldubois872 since it's coming from the top it could be coming from a number of places. Check the vent tube for the trans, top cover of the trans, speedo sensor, starter where it bolts to the primary and check the base of the rear barrel on the engine. Hope this helps.
This is probably a dumb question but do you need to drain all fluids from the bike prior to working on it? I’m watching this video in prep for a primary leak I potentially have. Thank you for this video! Very informative. Can I get in touch with you in other means if I have other questions about bike work? 2006 HD Road King 12k miles Washington State
Glad you like the videos. There's no dumb question if you're not sure. If you're just taking the outer primary off you only have to drain the primary fluid. If you're removing the inner primary and have a horseshoe tank you'll need to drain the engine oil because the tank needs to be removed to remove the inner primary. You don't need to drain the trans. My email is tinkeringwithharleys@gmail.com Thanks for the question and thanks for watching
@@tinkeringwithharleys Ah I see! Thank you again! Now time to go find all the parts you mentioned in the video haha. I’ve just been running your TH-cam videos while browsing amazon and eBay for all the parts needed for the job.
I have oil coming from the seal where the crankshaft comes into the primary where the stator is but the oil takes a long time to start leaking it seems to fill up behind the seal and runs over the top of the lower side of seal the seal is not tight around crankshaft. Am I missing something help !!!!
@@opieg7018 Sorry to hear your having a problem. If the seal is leaking and loose it definitely needs to be replaced. Without knowing what year and model you have I can't be anymore helpful. Thanks for watching.
The last Evo I did which was awhile ago the torque sequence was 1,2,3,4. The final toque was 42 lbs. The are 4 torque increments. First torque 9lbs, second torque 15 lbs, third torque 25 lbs and fourth and final torque is 42 lbs. Thanks for the questions and take your time putting your top end back together. Thanks for watching
My 2008 FLXH starts great on cold startups but when I stop for gas and engine is hot it has a very lowed clunking noise. What needs to be done to correct this problem?
Thanks for the question, does the clunk sound like it's coming from the primary? Does the bike feel sluggish when you are at low speed after the clunk starts? Does it go away when you get up to speed.
Thanks for the question. Before taking anything apart clean the underside of the primary so it's free of oil. Than let it sit, the oil leak will slowly show itself on the clean surface. Than you know exactly where the leak is. Than taking it apart and examining everything in that location you can determine the cause. Thanks for watching
Really enjoying the videos, I have a 2013 ultra classic with the cruise drive 6 speed and I'm having issues in the transmission. The bike has 50,000 miles and I'm getting an excessive amount of brass, bronze? colored fine shavings in the transmission oil. Looking at the diagrams I am having a hard time finding what in the trans is brass. I see some shift forks are brass colored but not sure if there are any bushings or bearing cages in there that are bronze or brass. Any ideas what to look for when I get it torn apart? Thanks and keep up the informational videos, they are appreciated!
Thanks for the comment and the question. Unfortunately I've not done a late model 6 spd with cruise on it yet, so any info I give you would be pure speculation. That being said the 1st place I would look would be your shift forks and shift dogs, that is commonly where you get the most wear. If the forks show wear the dogs will also be worn and need to be replaced. If you go that far you'll be doing a complete rebuild so any other damage or wear you will find as you strip the main and counter shaft. Sorry I can't be more specific, but as I've said I've yet to get my hands on one. Thanks for the question and thanks watching and subscribing.
Just following up with your question. Did the brass colored shavings stick to the magnet? The only thing I can think of that is brass or brass colored are some of the bushings. I've not seen this condition in a trans, I have seen it in the primary oil and case.
@@tinkeringwithharleys Much appreciated, the brass settles in the bottom but doesn't seem magnetic. I would love to get a 6 speed baker but it's not in the budget so it will be getting a rebuild. My first check will be for an over tight primary chain wearing on the inner primary bearing and putting stress on the trans internals but yes it looks like a full rebuild is coming, Thanks so much for the replies! 👍
Yep Baker makes a great trans but they're real pricey. At any rate your question got my curiosity up, so I did some research. It turns out you do have a brass bushing in that trans. It's not listed as brass in the diagrams, but I believe it is. It looks like it's part of the pawl system. Which would make sense from the constant rotation of the pawl shifter as you shift. I can't swear that's the bushing but by the diagram it looks probable. Just thought I would pass that on to you. Glad you enjoy the videos and once again thanks for watching.
Great video. I love the way you talk it through step by step. I’m no stranger to turning wrenches but bikes aren’t something in familiar with. Dropped you a sub and I’ll check out your others 🤙🏼
Thanks for your comment, if you've checked the inner primary and don't find any cracks causing the leak and the leak is in the front of primary it's probably the o ring in between the engine case and inner primary. Check out primary leaks oil part 4 and it will show you how to fix it. Thanks for watching.
Took my primary apart replacing stator, the compensator nut was one of the tightest nuts l ever came accross lol the clutch did not slide out like the video lm still trying to remove it lol any suggestions how to remove clutch pack intact thanks
Ok so the one you saw me pull off was from a later model twin cam. Unfortunately yours is just a little bit tougher to get off especially if it hasn't been off in awhile. The way I've done them in the past, if I can't wiggle them off, which I'm guessing you've already tried. I'll use a 3 prong puller. You put the prongs over the starter gear on the clutch basket and just slowly pull it off the shaft. This will remove your clutch basket intact. You can pick up the puller at Harbor Freight and a reasonable price. The one I use is a 8" prong puller. But that should do the job for you. Unfortunately Harley changes things year to year so it sometimes makes it tough. Your right on the compensator nut, it's a bear to get off. It's on there 80 to 100 ft lbs with red loctite. I use a impact gun because I do a fair amount of work on stuff and I'm to old to be fighting those with a breaker bar. At any rate I hope this helps and answers your question. Thanks for watching and thanks for the question.
@@tinkeringwithharleys yep my gun was not strong enough to break compensate nut use breaker bar 4 foot pipe and my son to break that bad boy lol l will use the puller on it for sure thanks a bunch for the response buddy
No problem that's why I started this channel to help guys do the work themselves instead of paying the high dollar costs of a shop. Just a follow up, make sure the chain tensioner is loose so there's no resistance on the clutch.
Why do Harley-Davidson leake oil. It seems like people that own a Harley-Davidson they're all the time having to work on itI I would build a bonfire and set the motorcycle on top of yet and let the motorcycle burn to the ground and then buy a Honda V-Twin motorcycle that you don't have to work on or a Suzuki V-Star twin then you can go with it hope I didn't offend anyone I've been riding bike since I was 11 years old again by a
No offense taken, older Harley's did leak a lot but were fixable if you knew how. The new ones don't leak until they get some age on them, just like anything else that gets old. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Ride safe
A mechanic he ain't. Needlenose pliers to remove snap rings. Umm they sell Snap Ring Pliers for a reason. And impact gun to remove compensator nut on a pressed together crank. Not me.
Your videos are outstanding! I own a 1988 FXSTC Softail. I'm the original owner with only 25K miles on it. Never beat on this 36 year old bike. Brought it in for a small oil leak to my local Harley Dealership. After putting $3,500 into it for a replacement of the Main Seal on the motor. They delivered it home. I didn't ride it right away, because I wanted to confirm there were no oil leaks. Much to my dismay, it was still leaking on the paper towels for the next 3 days. So they picked it up again. After watching Parts 1 and 2 of your Harley Primary Leaks, showed me the inner guts to the Primary, which I've never seen before, and learned a lot. They've had it for a couple of weeks again. Still waiting to hear the cause of the existing leak. So I've prepared myself for the replacement of the Inner Primary Cover, and all the labor involved. Fingers crossed that is not the problem. Please keep these educational videos coming! I just became a new Subscriber. As a suggestion, please turn your radio off in the background. It does get annoying at times.
Thank you for subscribing. You own a great bike, the FX models look and run great. Sorry to hear you still have a leak. Harley uses a big O ring between the engine case and inner primary. Over time those o rings don't seal correctly, due to age and heat expansion. If you look at part 4 of that series you'll see i replace that o ring with a gasket. This has been a problem since they started using that o ring. I've replaced hundreds of them over the years which stops that annoying leak. Since you're the original owner you know everything that's been done to the bike, so I doubt you have a damaged inner primary. I hope they get it taken care for you. Thanks again for subscribing, thanks for watching and ride safe.
Thank you for explaining the reasoning behind your diagnosis/prognosis of problems. A mechanic is only as good as her/his ability to figure out just what the hell happened, and what it's gonna take to fix it. Watching you work strengthens my skill set. Keep up the good work.👍
Glad you liked the video and thanks for you're input. That's why I do these videos to show cause and affect and final repair. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Hey tinkering you always do good work and I learn a lot watching you so keep up the good work
Another great description on removing inner primary, No BS just good quality sound, Pics and advice, you remind me of my old Voc tech instructor. Who had the patience of a Saint-LoL Scott from FL
Thanks for the compliment. No need for BS. I do this so people will learn to work on their bikes themselves. No gimmicks needed for that. Very glad you liked the video, and once again thanks for the compliment. Thanks for watching.
I know this video is a few years old but im glad it's here to watch considering im having the same problem
Glad you liked the video and hope it helps you. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Very good video ! The only thing surprised me is your using impact on Compensator Nut & Clutch Basket Nut! Impacts beats TheHell out of rotor \ stator ,every HD Manual I ve read states clearly ,no impact ! Why risk it . Its not hard to put the nylon lock up tool in and break Comp Nut loose with a breaker bar . Your video quality is excellent as are your thorough instructions .Greatly appreciated !
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for your input. I started using a impact about 30 years ago after years of using breaker bars. After doing hundreds of them it's never damaged anything. As long as you lock up the compensator gear and ring gear on the clutch basket it works fine. Thanks again for your comment and thanks for watching.
Legend I enjoyed this still new to Harley world I m gonna hang around your channel to learn thanks uncle
Glad to hear you'll be sticking around and glad you like the videos. Thanks for watching
Excellent tutorial for any greenhorns!
Glad you think so, thanks for watching.
Excellent diagnosis!
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.
I know it’s an older video. Great video, only thing I didn’t agree with was the use of an impact due to possible damage to the magnets on the rotor. I have mixed feelings on it due to the high torque required but the hammering of the impact does have the ability to cause damage. Would love to hear anyone else’s thoughts as I know Harley master techs who only use hand tools and some use impacts.
Thanks for the comment, good point for discussion. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
i have a 99 FXDX that has a tiny oil drip under it a few minutes after I park it. Pulled the primary to look for leaks and found damage around that there was damage around the hole where the bearing is located. Looked like a hex nut had gotten down in there maybe when previous owner was installing saddlebags. They apparently tried to fix the damage with J-B weld. I searched the internet with vengeance and only fond one place that had a new inner primary cover. When it arrived it was in fact NOT the correct part and was defective. So I've just learned to live with my ride marking her spot wherever she goes. It's only about 2 inches in diameter, so every now and then I have to add a little fluid to the primary.
I'm telling you this because that may be why the guy didn't put a new inner primary cover on there. It's as scarce as unicorns !
True enough the older the bike gets the harder the parts are to find. I use a place in Florida. The name is Oz cycles. Since I've found them I've bought a number of things from them. All were in excellent shape and everything comes with a 30 day money back guarantee. I'll try and send you the link for them. They may not have one in stock now but they restock quickly. I really like these guys and since I work on older bikes I use them.
ozcycleparts.com/
There's their website, hope that helps and thanks for watching
Very well spoken and very informative.
Thanks, glad you found the video informative. Thanks for watching
Greats videos, thank you!!! Really appreciate the way you do it step by step!!!
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching
it's the same situation of my bike, I've found the crock on the casing of the primary located below on sprocket belt.
Cast cracks pretty easy if there's any stress or damage to it. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Ah Ha! There it is. You have provided the info I needed right here. Thank You Sir.
Glad to help that's why I made those videos in a series.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching and ride safe
Love your videos, im starting today on leaky inner, have seals and outter gasket, but im afraid a bolt walked , one of the five long bolts, maybe locktight pr jb weld in there, but im sure i will need help
Glad you liked the video. Try re tapping the hole. If that doesn't work use a heli coil. I believe it's 1/4 X 20. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Great explanation
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
Very educational. Those parts are prob expenssive. I would like to see you talk cost of parts in your videos. Maybe you do already. I just haven't watched them all.
Thank for the comment and suggestion. I have talked about pricing in some of my videos, but not all of them. On this bike the inner and outer primary combined would run roughly above$700 from Harley. They can be found cheaper with aftermarket parts, but some of the aftermarkets I've found are not the same quality as Harley. Which is unfortunate. I will bear your suggestion in mind as I do more videos. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching.
I found a couple of stripped threads on a used bikes inner primary bolt holes, theres 5 bolts, i tried jb weld, but have some heliocoils, whats your recommendation Sir? I definitely enjoy your clear and precise videos, subscribed!! Thank you
@@Fredscat thanks for subscribing. The 5 holes that are stripped are they in the case and trans where the inner primary bolts to the case? If so I would get a tap, I believe those holes are 1/4 X 20, try to retap the 5 holes. If the holes have gotten to big for the bolts and are still not tight, than try the heli coils. Make sure you clean the threads on the bolts before installing. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
Enjoy your videos especially the informative way you show tools and methods. Hey, could you explain proper drive belt tension in a video? And rear wheel alignment given that the axle and eccentric washers don’t seem to align perfectly.
Thank you I'm glad you are enjoying the videos. I can definitely do a video on proper belt tension and rear wheel alignment. Thanks for the suggestion and thank you for watching.
I enjoyed the 2 parts of this series and I subscribed and hit the bell so I can see part 3 and other videos. Your presentation is nicely paced and you speak clearly. This past summer of 2021 I had decided to redo my charging system and do a transmission and primary reseal. My bike is a 2003 Electra Glide Ultra, and this bike you're working on looks like it seals the same way as mine. By this I mean that it uses the bolts with locking tabs. What it also probably means is that you will have to use Silicone RTV sealant to seal between the primary and the engine and transmission cases. If he bottom bolt of the primary probably goes all the way through like mine, you will have to put sealant on the threads too. The two front bolts don't need to be sealed. I've put several thousand miles since I did this and she's now a very presentable machine. I've been wondering if bolts with thread locker and an O-ring can be used to seal on the face where the bolt head sits, just like the newer ones. This would mean that you don't need to use RTV between the castings. But what I did seems to work well so maybe it's fine. The other thing I learned is that when you put the compensator and clutch assembly back on, be sure to use the Loctite 262 as called out in the manual. Don't just use any red Loctite. 262 is not found in auto stores, you can get it from Granger or online. Harley specifies it for a good reason and I'm glad I made the effort to obtain it and use it. I'm waiting so I can watch your video on putting this back together. Keep up the good work!
Glad you are enjoying the videos, and thank you for watching and subscribing. I usually don't need RTV for the inner. I use a gaskets made by James Gasket company. That way I can eliminate the o-ring between the engine case and inner primary. It works very well. It will be a little bit before part 3 is put up. But I have 3 projects going on now. Thanks again for watching and subscribing.
Hey love watching you. Question fr you on a 1998 1340 fatboy I order new pistol what direction do the arrows go? Should the rear point back not forward because of the intake valves verses the exhaust size difference?
Thanks for the question. I'm guessing you bought pistons and not pistols for your Evo. For stock pistons the arrows always point to the front of the engine. Glad you like the videos and thanks for watching.
Great video thanks!
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching
I would like to see the best way to replace my rear drive belt on my 2001 Electra Glide Classic 88. Plus I have 32,000 miles on it should I replace it yep I will .
Plus it's pretty weird I think I have. Tight points and loose what's going on?
Thanks for the comment, I've already made a video on that. On my channel you'll find it in final belt drive. That belt will usually last 100,000 miles if it's had proper adjustment. Thanks for watching and ride safe
I have a 2009 Harley ultra classic it’s leaking between the engine and the transmission. Is there gasket though thank you.
@@marceldubois872 no there isn't a gasket in between the engine and trans. What most likely is leaking is the oil pan. The bolts that hold the oil pan have tendency to loosen up and when they to you get a like. Thanks for the question. Thanks for watching and ride safe.
@ it’s leaking on top not on the bottom
@marceldubois872 since it's coming from the top it could be coming from a number of places. Check the vent tube for the trans, top cover of the trans, speedo sensor, starter where it bolts to the primary and check the base of the rear barrel on the engine. Hope this helps.
This is probably a dumb question but do you need to drain all fluids from the bike prior to working on it? I’m watching this video in prep for a primary leak I potentially have. Thank you for this video! Very informative. Can I get in touch with you in other means if I have other questions about bike work? 2006 HD Road King 12k miles Washington State
Glad you like the videos. There's no dumb question if you're not sure. If you're just taking the outer primary off you only have to drain the primary fluid. If you're removing the inner primary and have a horseshoe tank you'll need to drain the engine oil because the tank needs to be removed to remove the inner primary. You don't need to drain the trans. My email is tinkeringwithharleys@gmail.com Thanks for the question and thanks for watching
@@tinkeringwithharleys Ah I see! Thank you again! Now time to go find all the parts you mentioned in the video haha. I’ve just been running your TH-cam videos while browsing amazon and eBay for all the parts needed for the job.
I have oil coming from the seal where the crankshaft comes into the primary where the stator is but the oil takes a long time to start leaking it seems to fill up behind the seal and runs over the top of the lower side of seal the seal is not tight around crankshaft. Am I missing something help !!!!
@@opieg7018 Sorry to hear your having a problem. If the seal is leaking and loose it definitely needs to be replaced. Without knowing what year and model you have I can't be anymore helpful. Thanks for watching.
What is the correct torque order and amount of progressive value of foot pound incriminate do you use for head bolts on 1998 evo?
The last Evo I did which was awhile ago the torque sequence was 1,2,3,4. The final toque was 42 lbs. The are 4 torque increments. First torque 9lbs, second torque 15 lbs, third torque 25 lbs and fourth and final torque is 42 lbs. Thanks for the questions and take your time putting your top end back together. Thanks for watching
My 2008 FLXH starts great on cold startups but when I stop for gas and engine is hot it has a very lowed clunking noise. What needs to be done to correct this problem?
Thanks for the question, does the clunk sound like it's coming from the primary? Does the bike feel sluggish when you are at low speed after the clunk starts? Does it go away when you get up to speed.
How do you know that is a primary oil leak? I'm looking forward to New videos...
Thanks for the question. Before taking anything apart clean the underside of the primary so it's free of oil. Than let it sit, the oil leak will slowly show itself on the clean surface. Than you know exactly where the leak is. Than taking it apart and examining everything in that location you can determine the cause. Thanks for watching
Really enjoying the videos, I have a 2013 ultra classic with the cruise drive 6 speed and I'm having issues in the transmission. The bike has 50,000 miles and I'm getting an excessive amount of brass, bronze? colored fine shavings in the transmission oil. Looking at the diagrams I am having a hard time finding what in the trans is brass. I see some shift forks are brass colored but not sure if there are any bushings or bearing cages in there that are bronze or brass. Any ideas what to look for when I get it torn apart? Thanks and keep up the informational videos, they are appreciated!
Thanks for the comment and the question. Unfortunately I've not done a late model 6 spd with cruise on it yet, so any info I give you would be pure speculation. That being said the 1st place I would look would be your shift forks and shift dogs, that is commonly where you get the most wear. If the forks show wear the dogs will also be worn and need to be replaced. If you go that far you'll be doing a complete rebuild so any other damage or wear you will find as you strip the main and counter shaft. Sorry I can't be more specific, but as I've said I've yet to get my hands on one. Thanks for the question and thanks watching and subscribing.
Just following up with your question. Did the brass colored shavings stick to the magnet? The only thing I can think of that is brass or brass colored are some of the bushings. I've not seen this condition in a trans, I have seen it in the primary oil and case.
@@tinkeringwithharleys Much appreciated, the brass settles in the bottom but doesn't seem magnetic. I would love to get a 6 speed baker but it's not in the budget so it will be getting a rebuild. My first check will be for an over tight primary chain wearing on the inner primary bearing and putting stress on the trans internals but yes it looks like a full rebuild is coming, Thanks so much for the replies! 👍
Yep Baker makes a great trans but they're real pricey. At any rate your question got my curiosity up, so I did some research. It turns out you do have a brass bushing in that trans. It's not listed as brass in the diagrams, but I believe it is. It looks like it's part of the pawl system. Which would make sense from the constant rotation of the pawl shifter as you shift. I can't swear that's the bushing but by the diagram it looks probable. Just thought I would pass that on to you. Glad you enjoy the videos and once again thanks for watching.
Great video. I love the way you talk it through step by step. I’m no stranger to turning wrenches but bikes aren’t something in familiar with. Dropped you a sub and I’ll check out your others 🤙🏼
Thanks I appreciate that, glad you enjoy the videos. Thanks for watching
Having same primary leak problems on my 2006 dyna street bob
Thanks for your comment, if you've checked the inner primary and don't find any cracks causing the leak and the leak is in the front of primary it's probably the o ring in between the engine case and inner primary. Check out primary leaks oil part 4 and it will show you how to fix it. Thanks for watching.
Took my primary apart replacing stator, the compensator nut was one of the tightest nuts l ever came accross lol the clutch did not slide out like the video lm still trying to remove it lol any suggestions how to remove clutch pack intact thanks
What year is your bike
91 FLHTC
Ok so the one you saw me pull off was from a later model twin cam. Unfortunately yours is just a little bit tougher to get off especially if it hasn't been off in awhile. The way I've done them in the past, if I can't wiggle them off, which I'm guessing you've already tried. I'll use a 3 prong puller. You put the prongs over the starter gear on the clutch basket and just slowly pull it off the shaft. This will remove your clutch basket intact. You can pick up the puller at Harbor Freight and a reasonable price. The one I use is a 8" prong puller. But that should do the job for you. Unfortunately Harley changes things year to year so it sometimes makes it tough. Your right on the compensator nut, it's a bear to get off. It's on there 80 to 100 ft lbs with red loctite. I use a impact gun because I do a fair amount of work on stuff and I'm to old to be fighting those with a breaker bar. At any rate I hope this helps and answers your question. Thanks for watching and thanks for the question.
@@tinkeringwithharleys yep my gun was not strong enough to break compensate nut use breaker bar 4 foot pipe and my son to break that bad boy lol l will use the puller on it for sure thanks a bunch for the response buddy
No problem that's why I started this channel to help guys do the work themselves instead of paying the high dollar costs of a shop. Just a follow up, make sure the chain tensioner is loose so there's no resistance on the clutch.
save money rebuild some of the starter componets utube uideo would be great old school man .thanks
Thanks for the idea. Don't have a starter right now that needs to be rebuilt, either electric or a kicker. But will keep it in mind. Thanks
posso avere la tua email x consigli dovrei fare la primari alla mia bici
@@giuliobelsito8048 tinkeringwithharleys@gmail.com
la mia bici anno 2005
@@giuliobelsito8048 I have a 2005 also that I'm building right now.
Why do Harley-Davidson leake oil. It seems like people that own a Harley-Davidson they're all the time having to work on itI I would build a bonfire and set the motorcycle on top of yet and let the motorcycle burn to the ground and then buy a Honda V-Twin motorcycle that you don't have to work on or a Suzuki V-Star twin then you can go with it hope I didn't offend anyone I've been riding bike since I was 11 years old again by a
No offense taken, older Harley's did leak a lot but were fixable if you knew how. The new ones don't leak until they get some age on them, just like anything else that gets old. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Ride safe
Snap rings suck.
Yep not my favorite either
A mechanic he ain't. Needlenose pliers to remove snap rings. Umm they sell Snap Ring Pliers for a reason. And impact gun to remove compensator nut on a pressed together crank. Not me.
Lol ok, for your enlightenment it's a forged crank not pressed. Thanks for watching