I have an 1984.5 FXRS and I tore mine apart back in August to replace the front sprocket that had some broken teeth (mine is chain driven). I ran into the same issue getting the rear clutch hub off. Finally getting mine put back together and glad to find your video to remember how to put things back together. Thanks!
Great video! It should be mentioned and maybe you can edit it in, make sure you have the battery disconnected on these older e-start models, or risk mangling a couple fingers. Of course one finger is bad enough. I see through the gaps that your battery is completely removed which is even better! When that solenoid is manually pushed in, that starter gear is going to do it's thing whether you like it or not. As far as the clutch puller, I have 2 shovels and an early evo that all have tapered mains, and after 30 plus years they still make me feel like something breaks when the clutch gives way!!! My '94 FXLR has the splined shaft and it's so much nicer, but I ain't selling nothing! Like you, I searched TH-cam for any video covering the fxr shifter shaft sleeve assembly and you're the only one I found. At 10:29 you are using your hand to drive the sleeve and O-ring back into the inner primary. I could not get mine in even with a block of wood! The O-rings I have are not HD OEM and I believe they have a larger circumference than the stock O-rings. I also bought the aluminum sleeve from FXR Division that came with O-rings but they aren't going in there either. I have my new O-rings (11117A) waiting at the dealership for me to get off work and pick them up. Hopefully it'll slide in like butter with those. Thanks for the video!
I recently bought an Evo Dyna Low Rider with forward controls that I want to put back to mid controls. This video was helpful, especially the tube the shifter goes through. I never saw that on my older bikes.
I have the same bike. 1985 FXRS in dark blue. 19,000 miles. It sat before I got it. Been through the carb, cross over line on the tank, and some odds and ends. I had an 85 Electra Glide in 1989 too. Everything is the same except for my eyesight and getting up off the ground. I had gasoline coming out of my primary!!!! I imagine pet cock not shut off or leaking into the carb, float not sealing enough, leaking down the cylinder into the crank case, into the primary. Top of the primary was dry, no gas smell. Have a trans fluid leak too. Have the tools and seals, just not the time. Outer and inner coming off, replacing the primary side oil seal on the motor, and trans seals and primary stuff. Fun Fun.
@@thomsoncustombikes Update - I got my primary covers off to do the trans seals. The needle bearing cage in the main drive gear walked outboard leaving no room to put the 5th gear oil seal on. I rigged up something with an 8" jaw puller that would pull against the belt sprocket nut and push in against the bearing cage, got it moved in, and got the oil seal in place. Re used the old belt sprocket with single lock bolt. (Metric!!). At the point to put the inner primary case back on. I wanted to see that jackshaft boot and starter goodies. Been apart for a month now! Should be back on track soon. vsk
Overall a very helpful video. However, I encountered a "little" extra step for my 1986 FXRS-SP. In the big Clymer manual, in chapter 5 (page 260) in the bottom left hand corner there is a step 8, part of which states: "On models so equiped...... Then remove the two lower bolts (B, Figure128) from behind the case (not shown)." Figure 128 on page 258 has 2 arrows labeled "B" pointing to where these bolts are located on the back side of the inner primary. Needless to say, this caused me a bit of grief because my inner primary case wouldn't budge when all the other bolts were removed. Once I re-read the manual and found this step it all clicked. Aside from the pain in the ass to remove these two bolts, it was smooth sailing.
I had a 1985 FXSB (same only 4 speed). The puller the service manual said to use was for the older dry cluth and won't woirk with the wet one - none of the holes line up correctly. I used a steering wheel puller, quick and easy and I already had one. Best to replace the clutch hub with a steel one while a person has it apart. Never mind how I learned that.....
Torque to specs, especially that model clutch hub nut. Using an impact wrench can split the hub at the tapered keyway. And I'm pretty sure the rotor could have stayed in place but removing it does let you examine it.
I need to check the bearing behind the clutch basket on my 87 fLhtc. Do you think its the same process ? I have already the puller but without the long screws like yours and i m wondering if it will be easy to find. There is s little play on the clutch basket and when i open the throttle there's a strange sound like a birt singing (!!!) and i think its that bearing so i have to check it. I hope i dont have to take all the case out but only the compensator and the clutch. Thank you for the video 👍🏼
@@073vasilis8 if your hearing a dirty grinding sound then you probably need to disassemble and inspect it all. With those older bikes it never hurts to do it right. 👍🏼 And yes, you will need the puller and all the parts that go with it.
When you pulled the clutch assembly, did you use the same four bolts in the assembly in combination with the tool? Just bought a 1985 FXRC. Transmission fluid leaking at the drive belt. Let the fun begin.
I am doing my inner clutch on a 1986 FXST new bearing and inner clutch assembly, just pressed everything in and just like before the inner clutch is hanging up when you spin it while holding the outer clutch assembly. something is rubbing in between like the bolt heads or something. I am not happy with putting it back together like that. My question is have you ever had this problem. Thanks
@@thomsoncustombikes when it spins it hits but I figured out maybe it does not matter, Because when all the clutch plates are in the whole thing is locked together, the inner and outer clutch basket. I thought right after you press the inner clutch into the bearing it should spin freely without any rubbing between the steel plate and the outer clutch basket. seems like when they welded the studs on the steel plate it throws it off balance. Another words it has run out.
Nice video I have a 89 fxrs I that was given to me it has not run since 2015 I’m tearing it down to the frame I’m just about to pull the inner primary if the 89 has that tapered shaft, can u tell where u bought that puller u got . Nice job
I’m a newb and dove into taking apart my inner primary. How do you loosen the nut on the clutch side? I’m doing righty loosey but the back wheel just spins with every rotation… Thanks
Your going to need to either lock the primary up with the chain lock tool, or put the wheel on the ground and secure the bike so it doesn't roll. It may require 2 people if you don't have the right tool.
@@thomsoncustombikes Hey thanks for the response. The bike is on the ground and the primary chain has locks on it. With every effort the loosen the nut, the back tire moves/skids on the ground. The clutch cable is free, maybe I have to find a way to disengage the clutch to lock the clutch hub?
@@paulcraig4731 yeah, and it's an old bike. Possibly never been apart before, so keep trying and don't give up! You'll get it 👍🏼 Try a super long breaker bar. Or a 1/2in impact gun. Lube it really well too. Oh and also try heat. Use a heat gun to get it hot, that helps expand and shrink the metals and gunk that could be in it. 👍🏼
This video has been beyond helpful and I have been referring to it over the past month. Just put everything back together and came into a small issue. That copper washer. I thought it just sat on the clutch, it dropped into the crank case. The washer that fell out at :57, where did that come from? The starter drive? Thanks again for your help!
Nice Video! One question: Is there any kind of seal behind the clutch hub? You know to seal the inner primary at the main shaft. Asking because my 81 flt has a somewhat similar setup and all I have there is a ball baring.
Behind the clutch hub is 2 retaining rings (pt#37904-84 and 11006) also the main shaft ball bearing (pt#9025A) . But behind the inner primary is 3 important parts. A bearing (pt#9135) A oil seal (pt#12052A) and a retaining ring (pt#60678-85) Hope that helps!
@@bk0225 There are the O-rings, gaskets and an inner seal on the transmission. Also the starter area where it goes into the inner primary, and be sure to check all the inner primary bolts. 👍🏼
All that to change drive belt , or chain ! On my 84 soft tail. Evolution with shovel head primary, tranny. FYI I use a steering wheel puller to pull clutch basket off. Done it a couple times already. No need to order special puller.
I like the video unfortunately I found it after I replaced the same shaft, challenging to be certain but I got thru it. Wish I had foundation it before
After trying a few different companies, i found the correct one on EBAY. Here it is: MOFUN Harley Clutch Hub Puller Alternator For 1936-1990 Big Twin Softail Touring www.ebay.com/itm/235009115450
It's funny I took mine apart too the first thing I found was a copper washer I don't know where it go the shifter bar that go to the gears is lose oh joy
Thruout the video, would have been helpful to show the bolts needing removed, especially from the inside,where the ground was located. Thx it was otherwise very informative
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I have an 1984.5 FXRS and I tore mine apart back in August to replace the front sprocket that had some broken teeth (mine is chain driven). I ran into the same issue getting the rear clutch hub off. Finally getting mine put back together and glad to find your video to remember how to put things back together. Thanks!
Glad it helped!!! Your officially a MotoTuber! 🏁
Great video! It should be mentioned and maybe you can edit it in, make sure you have the battery disconnected on these older e-start models, or risk mangling a couple fingers. Of course one finger is bad enough. I see through the gaps that your battery is completely removed which is even better! When that solenoid is manually pushed in, that starter gear is going to do it's thing whether you like it or not. As far as the clutch puller, I have 2 shovels and an early evo that all have tapered mains, and after 30 plus years they still make me feel like something breaks when the clutch gives way!!! My '94 FXLR has the splined shaft and it's so much nicer, but I ain't selling nothing!
Like you, I searched TH-cam for any video covering the fxr shifter shaft sleeve assembly and you're the only one I found. At 10:29 you are using your hand to drive the sleeve and O-ring back into the inner primary. I could not get mine in even with a block of wood! The O-rings I have are not HD OEM and I believe they have a larger circumference than the stock O-rings. I also bought the aluminum sleeve from FXR Division that came with O-rings but they aren't going in there either. I have my new O-rings (11117A) waiting at the dealership for me to get off work and pick them up. Hopefully it'll slide in like butter with those. Thanks for the video!
Great video, mines an 86 FXRS-SP, mines in a million pieces at the moment, this will help me on my rebuild, thanks pal👍
Thanks!!
I recently bought an Evo Dyna Low Rider with forward controls that I want to put back to mid controls. This video was helpful, especially the tube the shifter goes through. I never saw that on my older bikes.
Cool! Glad it helped ya 👍🏼
Thanks i have 1984 FXRT my clutch is out to day ago ! cool to see the inside of the beast 😊
Thanks man. Your right no videos on the tappered shaft clutch removal. Mine is a 89 softail but your video answered my questions.
Cool, stoked to hear it helped ya 👍🏼
I have the same bike. 1985 FXRS in dark blue. 19,000 miles. It sat before I got it. Been through the carb, cross over line on the tank, and some odds and ends. I had an 85 Electra Glide in 1989 too. Everything is the same except for my eyesight and getting up off the ground. I had gasoline coming out of my primary!!!! I imagine pet cock not shut off or leaking into the carb, float not sealing enough, leaking down the cylinder into the crank case, into the primary. Top of the primary was dry, no gas smell. Have a trans fluid leak too. Have the tools and seals, just not the time. Outer and inner coming off, replacing the primary side oil seal on the motor, and trans seals and primary stuff. Fun Fun.
Wow, sounds like you have a project on the horizon 👍🏼 fun times 😎
@@thomsoncustombikes Update - I got my primary covers off to do the trans seals. The needle bearing cage in the main drive gear walked outboard leaving no room to put the 5th gear oil seal on. I rigged up something with an 8" jaw puller that would pull against the belt sprocket nut and push in against the bearing cage, got it moved in, and got the oil seal in place. Re used the old belt sprocket with single lock bolt. (Metric!!). At the point to put the inner primary case back on. I wanted to see that jackshaft boot and starter goodies. Been apart for a month now! Should be back on track soon. vsk
I needed this video two years ago
You should probably replace all the seals while you’re in there. Including the one on the Transmission go that one step further…
Overall a very helpful video.
However, I encountered a "little" extra step for my 1986 FXRS-SP. In the big Clymer manual, in chapter 5 (page 260) in the bottom left hand corner there is a step 8, part of which states:
"On models so equiped...... Then remove the two lower bolts (B, Figure128) from behind the case (not shown)."
Figure 128 on page 258 has 2 arrows labeled "B" pointing to where these bolts are located on the back side of the inner primary.
Needless to say, this caused me a bit of grief because my inner primary case wouldn't budge when all the other bolts were removed. Once I re-read the manual and found this step it all clicked. Aside from the pain in the ass to remove these two bolts, it was smooth sailing.
I had a 1985 FXSB (same only 4 speed). The puller the service manual said to use was for the older dry cluth and won't woirk with the wet one - none of the holes line up correctly. I used a steering wheel puller, quick and easy and I already had one. Best to replace the clutch hub with a steel one while a person has it apart. Never mind how I learned that.....
Torque to specs, especially that model clutch hub nut. Using an impact wrench can split the hub at the tapered keyway.
And I'm pretty sure the rotor could have stayed in place but removing it does let you examine it.
I need to check the bearing behind the clutch basket on my 87 fLhtc.
Do you think its the same process ?
I have already the puller but without the long screws like yours and i m wondering if it will be easy to find.
There is s little play on the clutch basket and when i open the throttle there's a strange sound like a birt singing (!!!) and i think its that bearing so i have to check it. I hope i dont have to take all the case out but only the compensator and the clutch.
Thank you for the video 👍🏼
@@073vasilis8 if your hearing a dirty grinding sound then you probably need to disassemble and inspect it all. With those older bikes it never hurts to do it right. 👍🏼 And yes, you will need the puller and all the parts that go with it.
Hope you guys enjoyed another video! “TCB” Tee and Hoodies HERE! Https://ThomsonCustomBikes.com/
When you pulled the clutch assembly, did you use the same four bolts in the assembly in combination with the tool? Just bought a 1985 FXRC. Transmission fluid leaking at the drive belt. Let the fun begin.
Yes, and you can either use the 4 bolts with the tool or the clutch assembly. Depending on which are the right length.
I am doing my inner clutch on a 1986 FXST new bearing and inner clutch assembly, just pressed everything in and just like before the inner clutch is hanging up when you spin it while holding the outer clutch assembly. something is rubbing in between like the bolt heads or something. I am not happy with putting it back together like that. My question is have you ever had this problem. Thanks
@@robertjones7792 is it hanging up as in will not spin? Or when you spin it it hits?
@@thomsoncustombikes when it spins it hits but I figured out maybe it does not matter, Because when all the clutch plates are in the whole thing is locked together, the inner and outer clutch basket. I thought right after you press the inner clutch into the bearing it should spin freely without any rubbing between the steel plate and the outer clutch basket. seems like when they welded the studs on the steel plate it throws it off balance. Another words it has run out.
Not a better video out there. Than you did your time for the community.
Thanks! Much appreciated 😎
@@thomsoncustombikes Shit i cant type with big hands on a fucking phone. That was supposed to say "thank you for your time you did for the community".
Nice video I have a 89 fxrs I that was given to me it has not run since 2015 I’m tearing it down to the frame I’m just about to pull the inner primary if the 89 has that tapered shaft, can u tell where u bought that puller u got .
Nice job
Here it is:
MOFUN Harley Clutch Hub Puller Alternator For 1936-1990 Big Twin Softail Touring
www.ebay.com/itm/235009115450
Awesome how to video. Amazing. Thanks!
Thank you!!
I’m a newb and dove into taking apart my inner primary. How do you loosen the nut on the clutch side? I’m doing righty loosey but the back wheel just spins with every rotation… Thanks
Your going to need to either lock the primary up with the chain lock tool, or put the wheel on the ground and secure the bike so it doesn't roll. It may require 2 people if you don't have the right tool.
@@thomsoncustombikes Hey thanks for the response. The bike is on the ground and the primary chain has locks on it. With every effort the loosen the nut, the back tire moves/skids on the ground. The clutch cable is free, maybe I have to find a way to disengage the clutch to lock the clutch hub?
@@paulcraig4731 yeah, and it's an old bike. Possibly never been apart before, so keep trying and don't give up! You'll get it 👍🏼
Try a super long breaker bar. Or a 1/2in impact gun. Lube it really well too. Oh and also try heat. Use a heat gun to get it hot, that helps expand and shrink the metals and gunk that could be in it. 👍🏼
This video has been beyond helpful and I have been referring to it over the past month. Just put everything back together and came into a small issue. That copper washer. I thought it just sat on the clutch, it dropped into the crank case. The washer that fell out at :57, where did that come from? The starter drive? Thanks again for your help!
@paulcraig4731 Yes, that copper washer comes from the starter drive area
Nice Video! One question: Is there any kind of seal behind the clutch hub? You know to seal the inner primary at the main shaft. Asking because my 81 flt has a somewhat similar setup and all I have there is a ball baring.
Behind the clutch hub is 2 retaining rings (pt#37904-84 and 11006) also the main shaft ball bearing (pt#9025A) . But behind the inner primary is 3 important parts. A bearing (pt#9135) A oil seal (pt#12052A) and a retaining ring (pt#60678-85)
Hope that helps!
@@thomsoncustombikes Thank you very much 🫡
What are all the seals need replacing?
@@bk0225 There are the O-rings, gaskets and an inner seal on the transmission. Also the starter area where it goes into the inner primary, and be sure to check all the inner primary bolts. 👍🏼
what size socket does the compesator nut take
@@royturner9692 1-3/8in or 35mm 👍🏼
Thanks for the info.👍👍👍👍👍
All that to change drive belt , or chain !
On my 84 soft tail.
Evolution with shovel head primary, tranny.
FYI I use a steering wheel puller to pull clutch basket off.
Done it a couple times already.
No need to order special puller.
Did you ever figure out where that copper washer @ 1:04 is supposed to go?
Yes, part of the starter inside the primary
I like the video unfortunately I found it after I replaced the same shaft, challenging to be certain but I got thru it. Wish I had foundation it before
Thanks!!
Nice. Thanks mate.
😎👍😎
Thanks..
What’s the link of that website you got the puller from?
I will find the info and post it soon ,
👍🏼
After trying a few different companies, i found the correct one on EBAY. Here it is:
MOFUN Harley Clutch Hub Puller Alternator For 1936-1990 Big Twin Softail Touring
www.ebay.com/itm/235009115450
5:03 this puller??
HD-95960-41A
It's funny I took mine apart too the first thing I found was a copper washer I don't know where it go the shifter bar that go to the gears is lose oh joy
The copper washer goes on the starter shaft between the starter shaft land and the primary.
A parts manual (available online) with exploded views of everything is a real help when it's a 'what fits where' issue.
Thruout the video, would have been helpful to show the bolts needing removed, especially from the inside,where the ground was located. Thx it was otherwise very informative
Thanks!!
Music, a shot him cleaning the cover ....ect ... not anything new 👎