Thanks all for the kind comments! It's a joy for me to make these videos for you guys. We are tremendously blessed by what we get to do, and I am grateful for all the love and support.
You've earned all the accolades. You and your dad have now become a team which is so rewarding to see how far You've become. The natural chemistry and love comes through without even trying and it makes long time fans like myself so proud of you both. You're teaching us so much more then just how to diag cars.
Hey its Caleb 🙌 been watchin these videos for years how time flys. You all are blessed you seem to have a great family :) And were blessed you all make this video to teach us ❤ Well you and your pops take care.
Thanks Caleb.........these videos are so helpful cause how easy it is to follow and understand what's all going on. Thank you for making it easier for us to learn and grasp what is being taught in these videos.
I want to give praise to my son Caleb Danner. The editing he did on this video was absolutely amazing. I am so blessed by you my son and that we get to work side by side? It just doesn't get any better! Also, from a technician training video (which this is), the editing that he did makes it so easy to follow and learn from! Make sure you watch it then tell him what you think in the comments. Thank you! He deserves some praise for his behind the scenes work
Good job Caleb and Dad. Always look forward to your educational work. Your videos are always educational, entertaining and nicely edited so that we the viewer can see what you guys are seeing. Some automotive videos on TH-cam can be all over the place and bad camera/video shots. So thumbs up to you guys for being aware of that
Just had this same problem with a 16 kia sedona 3.3 customer said it keeps stalling we had it for a week could not get it to stall scoped the crank sensor saw a glitch at idle told the customer let's start with the crank let's see how it goes thank you for all the knowledge you provide I appreciate you and your team
I watch videos of many good diagnosticians, but I am always convinced that ScannerDanner is the best in teaching of electrical measurements, which is actually the most important thing for an electrician. Thank you!
I had this same problem on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee with 5.9l. Everytime it got hot, it wouldn't start from the crank sensor. Thank you for all the brilliant information. I'm truly thankful
The legend of the green man edits were hilarious 😁 Also a great lesson on the difference between hall effects and VRS, I'm a new premium member and my notebook is almost full!!
Great job on this one. Had a Jeep doing the same thing, no start on hot soak. The family's expert "mechanic" had it for weeks, couldn't figure it out because it was not setting a code. I saw no tach and no signal on scope. Bam, new sensor problem gone. Sad, though, the owners thought it had so many issues because the other mechanic couldn't figure it out, they traded it in a real POS Silverado that's in the transmission of the month club. (I don't do heavy work like transmission swaps anymore)
Excellent video! Thank you, Caleb, for capturing those upclose shots! I've said it before Paul, the value of these videos are priceless. Having that drivability after the code set on the same ignition cycle can lead a technician down a rabbit hole trying do diagnose a problem that doesn't exist. Very cool that you guys caught that on video!
That part was unexpected and was cool! Imagine the customer complaints with that one. I guess I can see why all the ignition components were replaced? Not really lol. But thank you!
This video also nicely displayed the somewhat hidden value of the snapon scantool. In the right hands it’s a great time saver! Great video I learned a lot, thanks again!
My practice is to perform a Global OBDII. Scan, then VIN Specific Scan, and then I set my Scan-Tool to record, select the relevant/ DTC-related PIDs, and verify/replicate the symptoms. Finally, I will create a test plan to determine the root cause. GREAT VIDEO, as always.
The excellence of this video extends to the well annotated timestamps on the timeline as well as in the description. Including local folklore while simultaneously allowing the hot soak was 👌. I'm liking the new animation for drawing circuits too. As close to a perfect video as it's possible to get.
Brother danner thank you for giving back. this information you share is a blessing! Every time I here your son Caleb in worship i know he has a calling on his life
Been a very long time subscriber.....even have your book....just wanted you to know how much you've helped myself and SSOO many others. Been an ASE "Master" for several years and with your help, I was recently able to pass the L1 test ! Not to sound "mushy" but Thank you for everything you do and God Bless my friend .... 🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thanks to Caleb for his brilliant work on the editing, made it look so much more professional !.and thank you Paul for the educational video on a VRS sensor. You both make quite the team .
Great content as always Paul! And Caleb, we appreciate your editing skills and the time you invest in bringing this content to life! May our Lord continually bless you and the Danner family.
Paul, God bless you, because I have this same joy when I have a challenge and get to learn... And I work with my son every day in our business. It all comes through.
Awesome video and capture of not only the drop out but also showing the resulting default strategy kick in that was Great. So much to learn from these videos and happy to be a premium member and have the ability to learn from the Master.
You guy's are Awesome👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Sorry I couldn't catch up yesterday😇 Really important one especially the way you explain theory & operation no one can👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks for sharing SD, STAY BLESSED DANNER FAMILY🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Danner! Thanks for always sharing knowledge, you and your videos have helped me improve my skills on Scopes and as long as you keep posting I will keep watching. Cheers.
I'm lucky enough to learn maximum technology from you sir and applying all your knowledge and experience in my fathers garage .. making me a hero in Qatar 😂 Thank you very much. God bless you. (Your overseas gulf student)
Hello Paul, first thank you for all of the educational videos that you make. Please keep producing such great information. I have a 94 B250 Dodge van 3.9L automatic transmission. I am a disabled person and I would really appreciate your help. My van started out with idling lower and lower. After having a full tuneup about 5,000 miles before starting to have this problem and then it started dying on me when I would put it in reverse. So my son replaced the idle control valve. It didn't phase the idle at all. Then the van started dying on the highway or on the street. Whenever it wanted to. We would wait sometimes a short time other times we would have to wait 24 hours before the van would start again. I checked the arc of the coil it appeared weak, so my son replaced it and also replaced the wires, the plugs, distributor cap and the rotor. We thought it was fixed, but on our way home it died again. The next day we went to a auto parts store. We bought a relay and put it in, it didn't help at all. The auto store gave us a refund. After being there 8 hours a employee came over to ask what was our problem, we told him. He asked my son to crank the engine. He didn't hear the fuel pump and he said that we needed a new fuel pump. The next morning the van started again. But it seems that when something gets hot it stops sending power to the ignition coil, the fuel pump, and I think the fuel injectors. It has a carburetor and fuel injectors. Whenever the engine is running everything is getting power but when it stops running, whenever it feels like it, there is no power to the items that I mentioned above. But when the employee said that it was the fuel pump I bought it. But the next morning with a clear head I realized that it most likely was not the fuel pump; because other things are not getting power whenever something is getting hot it cuts off the power to the above mentioned items. Paul WILL YOU PLEASE HELP ME TO RESOLVE THIS ISSUE Paul. I am in a desperate situation. I can't afford to pay an automotive shop to diagnose and fix the problem. Thank you for taking the time to read my long message. I know that I am asking a lot of you Paul. Will you please use your vast knowledge to help me. Thank you very much Paul. I will look forward to your response. God bless you!!!
You have to find out what you're missing when it is NOT starting. Also what trouble codes is it setting? Cycle your key on,off,on,off, on and count your flashes. Code 55 is end of report
Paul, with that code, at MB dealer, we always pulled the sensor, hooked up an ohm meter, and then heated up the sensor with a heat gun, they always go open when they are bad. We had to verify and move forward, replace, and we were assured that was indeed the problem.
Thanks for posting. Great job guys. Paul have you ever heard of a Schmitt Trigger? It’s used to convert a Sine Wave into a square wave. Hence this is what the engine computer understands.
thank you so much...I am in Argentina and how simple and illustrated diagnostic with Snapping scanner. Amazing I have Autel 808 and is imposible compite with so máster habilite to approach everything...great thank you. Bravo... Madonna each car with more andore sensors is like more and more poverty to pay maintenance...thank you.
Another excellent video wish I could justify or afford a nice scan tool like a snap-on but since I just do this for my own insanity & self-torture, I opted for one of the XTOOLs so far, it's done everything I need but boy howdy I love to have a full database loaded scan tool. Thanks again for your videos your knowledge is gold, my mind is like a sponge unfortunately every time I go to sleep it dries out. Some of that due to my teen drinking years, so I'll keep on watching.
100% agreed. You cannot change apart based on a code. Worked on a 2018 Kia Optima. Hybrid, that was overheating and had a code for the coolant pump. When we looked at the engine Bay, there was no visible leaks anywhere. Hooked up pressure gauge to the Radiator and we're losing A PSI of Pressure every 30 to an hour. After looking the vehicle over 4 over an hour whenever the engine would turn on, there would be little hints of white Smoke. Thinking it might have been a head gasket issue. Wanted to verify the fault and look inside the cylinders with the boroscope. No cooling inside the cylinders whatsoever. Taking a look at the system, not able to get any Oem Diagnostic procedures as far as Entirety of Cooling system from alldata, just a brief overview. And how to take things apart. Saw that the egr was part of that system for Cooling Engine performance Reasons. Only was able to find that because of the disassembly of a coolant pipe belonging to the cooling system on alldata. Wanting to verify that the EGR cooler was leaking But didn't want to take apart. The entire exhaust system and brake bolts not be prepared to replace them, but i didn't want to take apart The entire exhaust system and brake bolts not be prepared to replace them. Took out the Second 02 sensor after the cat Also, being after the EGR. Pipe. Stuck my boroscope down in there and saw coolant. Draining into the exhaust, then proceeded to take off the first 02 sensor 2 Verify that there was no coolant coming from the actual engine because of a head gasket, failure, or something else And was able to verify dry as a bone. Then took off the pipe connecting the EGR to the EGR cooler, and it was dry as a bone. Was able to 100% confidently say that it was the E. G r cooler and nothing else in the system Was able to 100% confidently say that it was the EGR cooler and nothing else in the system. If I had just replaced a part based on the code, it would have came back Customer would have been unsatisfied And I would have been out money for the job. Also found out when the car was under warranty, they had replaced the motor for the same issue. Don't be a parts changer.👍
Speaking of test light stuff, I work at a Mitsubishi dealership. In the electrical training classes they state to not use a test light because the current draw can damage a computer. It's all DVOM stuff. However, I still use mine all the time.
And therein lies why so many techs don't learn the importance of loaded circuit testing. The old wives tale of testing lights damaging modules really needs to be better explained. 95% of the time in circuit testing it will not hurt anything.
@@jeffcompton6937 I've seen the shop "master certified tech" replace modules based on a DTC many times. Many times later he finds a broken wire or is replacing a whole harness
I enjoy training with John Thorton as well. I do feel like he has a tendency to over complicate some things. He loves his scope lol. Great guy............
Awesome video. Loved the Green man info. Here in Anthracite Penna near Shamokin we have a similar love for our heritage. We also have a person called the Green Guy , but he was tatooed and lives outside of Milton.
Excellent video Paul/Caleb very informative. I believe you showed the cave in a video way back in the archives that goes to show you how long I’ve been a premium subscriber. I believe it was before your son was producing the videos. 👍🇺🇸 Artie
Originally from outside of Youngstown and I remember back in the late 60's searching for the green man over in PA but nowhere near as far south as Pitts.
It's a characteristic of creating voltage with magnetism. Motion, magnet, conductor. Voltage will increase with: 1. numbet of conductors 2. strength of the magnet 3. speed of the motion (how fast we move the magnetic field) There are a few other variables too
I heard you say mining town. My grandfather came from Italy in the early 1918 and most of the Italians ended up in the town of minersville Pennsylvania mining coal is where my grandfather came from. Small town.
We had an older Hyundai towed in with a no start. The customer had changed the VR crank sensor and still no start. We did scope the signal cranking and there was a signal but it seemed weak. Turns out when removing the old crank sensor the o ring stayed in the bore. With 2 o rings the air gap between the sensor and trigger wheel was too wide. My first thought was a bad aftermarket sensor. When removing the customer installed sensor you could see it wasn't bottomed out in the housing. The extra o ring was the culprit.
Having had my own automotive repair business for many many years I told my customers that a code is not a diagnosis. A code is a symptom and that’s why we charge a diagnostic fee.
Hi Paul, i love your way of approaching a car problem s and the diagnostic, I've been following you for along time I even brought your book few years ago, Paul i am really sorry but I didn't see you working on any new ish car. And does your diagnostic way would work on diesel car and again I didn't see you working on any diesel car. Thanks
We've been working on the training offered on my website. I put most of my newer stuff there and we have a diesel systems playlist going now too with at least 11-12 different case studies and counting. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
I am no mechanic or car expert, but a reluctance sensor is a "simple coil" and needs ECU for power. ECU forces a current thru this coil, and every time the inductance of the coil changes a voltage will appear on its terminals, and the reason the coil inductance changes is because the steel teeth of the crank pass close or not close to it. If you disconnect the sensor from ECU, you will see no signal, or extremely low one if the crank is magnetized for some reason. The voltage that appears depends on how fast the inductance changes, ie how fast the teeth pass in front of the coil. The ECU can provide the current referenced to ground, positive, or floated, design dependent.
It makes it own voltage. Your first statement you said it needs the ECU for power is incorrect. It needs no external power or ground to create a signal. Some of these will have a DC bias voltage that comes from the control module (common on ABS wheel speed sensors) but this is for circuit diagnostics (opens and shorts), not sensor signal operation. The 3 main things you need to create voltage from this type of sensor: 1. Motion 2. Magnet 3. Conductor If you move a magnetic field across a conductor you will create voltage and in this case the rotating trigger wheel or reluctor or drive plate (whatever you want to call it) is what is moving the magnetic field
@@ScannerDanner I agree with you if the crank teeth are magnetized, but AFAIK they are not. Metal shaving do not stick to the teeth. Passing non magnetized teeth in front of a coil does not generate voltage. Again I am not a mechanic, I am wrong thinking the crankshaft teeth are not magnetized? Thanks for the above reply.
@ikocheratcr the trigger wheel is not magnetized. The magnet is part of the crank sensor. The trigger wheel or reluctor moves the magnetic field as the teeth (ferrous material) move towards and away from the sensor
Paul good day! I've got a gmc sierra 2017 in the shop running -32 on both banks for the long term and 4 or 3 on the short term both banks. While idling The air filter is new and I'm pulling 21 inhg vacuum. I can't seem to get a good consistent sensor reading even at 2k rpm. Is it possibly a heater circuit issue for those 2 upstreams? I'll run some tests on them if it's a good idea. Maybe check secondary ignition waveform too in case we have a stuck open injector? What's your opinion?
i was sitting out in the shop thinking about these things the other day as far as mecanical to the computer base strategy, so simply i thought of chess. it a fairly simple game but it has experts on strategy for it. well for us techs it has gone to whats the chess game for firing the injectors, what the chess game for the spark plugs etc. we know what the car needs to run but we have to go through the engineers chess game for diagnosis. hope you get it
That is why we always did an ohm reading on a 2 wire and heated it with a heat gun and look for the open reading. On MB cars, best test practice we found early in the failure days.
Do you have suggestions for how much drive time is enough in order to attempt to duplicate?Do you suggest additional labor time charged up front for intermittent diagnostics? Appreciate your effort put into these case studies.
It depends how intermittent it is on whether I'll even take the job in! So there are a huge range of variables here. But yes, every minute you spend on a car, is testing time that should be billed for
@@ScannerDanner Hate it when the svc writer lures them in with a .5 diag labor time elect/driveability issue, only to promise getting you "caught up later" if diag time eclipses .5 or even 1 hour.
The initial interview with the customer is very important. Some service advisors don't get enough information for the technician. Trouble shooter is good when used . John Thornton has the best verbage in the auto industry.
Good morning Mr. Danner! I'm Brazilian, from the city of Rio de Janeiro, I really like your classes and I look for them as references for my research into possible defects on my motorcycle: Hyosung GV650. I will write my question and if you can suggest a video with something similar or that you can give your opinion on, I would be very grateful. in a twin-cylinder engine, looking at the CKP x primary/secondary of the coil, each cylinder shows a different timing value, each with a different tooth on the ignition pulses, for example: at idle, the ignition firing of cylinder 1 (FRONT) appears on the 13th tooth (the TDC mark is on the eighth tooth of the rotor) and the ignition firing of cylinder 2 (REAR) appears on the eighth tooth (the TDC mark for cylinder 2 is on the second tooth of the rotor), with the ignition point of 5° (BTDC) in the workshop manual, what generates this difference in readings on the oscilloscope? The Rotor has 24-2 teeth. and I counted the teeth for the TDC reference starting from the widest gap (the fault), counting from left to right in the oscilloscope image, but the motor has a direction of rotation: counterclockwise.
Let's move this to my forum www.scannerdanner.com It is free to join and we can definitely help you. I have 28k global members and hand picked moderators who've been with me for years and know my material inside and out and are there to help me help you guys. It is just too difficult to offer back and forth messages here on TH-cam with stuff like this and we also can't share pictures and images here like we can on the website. Hope to see you there!
Paul, but when they say it did not start did they crank it and when it didn't immediately start they stopped or didi they hold the key and crank it like you did until it started? There is a chance that one of Pete's guys cranked it, but did not crank it long enough to get it to start.
HI ScannerDanner, I'm from Brazil, I want to buy your E-book and print it, can I do it or do I need to buy the printed version on aeswave? Because send the printed version to Brazil will be expensive and I'll need to pay almost 92% of taxes over the shipping + product value.
You can't print directly from the eBook but there is nothing stopping you from doing print screen and paste into another program then printing individual pages from there. It's not ideal but it can be done. Hope that works for you. Thank you!
Shops need to be charging way more then they currently are. Too many shops are still undervaluing the diag process because customers don't understand what it actually involves skill wise. They think a 10 dollar code reader and an Amazon crank sensor is doing diag so they don't wanna pay. The industry doesn't need those type of customers that just want to constantly feel ripped off. They can just go buy another car then if they can't trust a technician.
can you please explain.... Why why why??? Today's modern cars eg Toyota Glanza, Toyota Taisor, has 12V and then drops to 7V in the door close signal voltage. Whereas, it used to be directly 12V when door closed and 0V when opened in old cars. But today's cars has 12V at door closed, and after 20 seconds, it drops to constant 7V. When opening, it drops to 0V. Why there's delay in dropping to 7V at door closed?? What's the significance of this 12V to 7V??? Please explain 😊
If I had more to offer I would have replied. The best I got as I mentioned before, and since I have not researched this circuit, is this may provide additional circuit monitoring capability. The how's and why's you'll have to investigate.
Hey danner I have a question 2011 jeep grand cherokee 3.6 , upon reading the data on scan tool accelerator sensor is getting sudden drop in voltage what could it be I tried replacing pedal but still doing the same thing????
@MrSouthside2021 this one is on my website (sorry) www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/chapter-7-potentiometers/chapter-7-potentiometers/276-chapter-7-potentiometers-pages-10-15.html
Can a shorted "signal" wire , cause a 5v reference to short , or cause the computer to think it is shorted (Buick lacrosse 2010) The OB2 says 5v reference 'c' is shorted to ground , but it reads 5v the multimeter on its reference wire and shared 5v references, the diagram says v5 Reference 3 (which I am sure means "C" ,OB2 say 'c'') . The map sensor or barometric pressure sensor shares with Acc pedal, actually it is the only share 5v reference on the diagram for reference 3). I notice the Buick has 2 map sensors , one at the air filter and the other actually at the intake manifold, (the diagram calls the one on the air filter a barometric, and code was for barometric , but then the diagram says there is a map sensor , which finding is a barometric also ) so it confused me, but all the 5v references read fine on the meter (5v , even on both Barometric 5v wires ). I replaced all the sensors and acc pedal and throttle body and was thinking of replacing the Ecm until I saw your videos. So , my question can a shorted "signal" wire throw a code for a shorted 5v reference ? Because at first I was thinking the computer isn't feeding a ground but according to you what I am understanding it will increase the voltage, not cause a low voltage (PS don't know the difference between loss and drop yet fully understand there is a difference, and I understand a low can mean a high vacuum , and a high means low vacuum, I am just trying to get the car fixed I seen enough Billni for now (another Ps that is not true rather the opposite ) haha though I will continue did get me interested ) also, correlation codes but the car runs but goes into limp mode if full throttle.
No, a shorted signal wire will only affect that one sensor. Visual inspections of the harness routing for the sensors that share that reference circuit are in order here. Look for points of contact (heat and vibration are the areas to look at)
@@ScannerDanner I tested the wires, and from low ref to 5v , all acc pedal , and both map sensors read 5v o r 4.99ish , so the computer isn't bad or grounds at least, i didn't test 5v to signal wire because i don't have a resistor in handy right away. So, my question , I know your busy , But can a signal wire cause the computer to think that there is a 5v ref short , because everything seems fine from . low ref to high ref/5v ref and can Use a fuse with two wires tie on each end instead of a resistor ?
@user-zx1xu9in2p nope. You have to recreate the fault. You have a code, but that doesn't mean it's happening right now. If you clear the code does it come immediately back? If not, none of the tests you did are of any value unfortunately
If I was the owner, I'd be worried if the shop just changed the sensor based only on the code. But didn't do the thorough testing to reproduce the fault to rule out other problems.
It all depends then on if the customer is willing to pay for all the time it took for them to prove out the sensor. This isn't a half hour diag. It took time. So u may say as a customer I don't just want a sensor installed because of a dtc but in this case it would have fixed the car. So u as a customer then need to pay for the time to prove its only a crank sensor. Otherwise you the customer pay for the guess. The thing that stays the same is customer is responsible for payment because customer owns the car. The shop doesn't owe u any freebies.
I've never seen that on a VRS circuit. That would have to be something catastrophic that melted inside of that board and that certainly wouldn't be from this input signal, so you'd have other symptoms as well as it wouldn't be an intermittent issue.
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Thanks all for the kind comments! It's a joy for me to make these videos for you guys. We are tremendously blessed by what we get to do, and I am grateful for all the love and support.
You're the man Caleb! This video really showcased how far you've come as an editor.
You've earned all the accolades. You and your dad have now become a team which is so rewarding to see how far You've become. The natural chemistry and love comes through without even trying and it makes long time fans like myself so proud of you both. You're teaching us so much more then just how to diag cars.
thank you
the best part of my day is the time i watch your videos
Hey its Caleb 🙌 been watchin these videos for years how time flys. You all are blessed you seem to have a great family :)
And were blessed you all make this video to teach us ❤
Well you and your pops take care.
Thanks Caleb.........these videos are so helpful cause how easy it is to follow and understand what's all going on.
Thank you for making it easier for us to learn and grasp what is being taught in these videos.
I want to give praise to my son Caleb Danner. The editing he did on this video was absolutely amazing. I am so blessed by you my son and that we get to work side by side? It just doesn't get any better!
Also, from a technician training video (which this is), the editing that he did makes it so easy to follow and learn from! Make sure you watch it then tell him what you think in the comments. Thank you! He deserves some praise for his behind the scenes work
Caleb has truly become elite in his profession. Good on him u guys are an awesome team my brother. Hopefully I'll be able to shake his hand one day.
Your videos show much more than diagnosing and fixing cars!
@jeffcompton6937 thank you Jeff! This video needs to get more love lol. I guess most of my viewers already know all of this 😅
@@dtandfam8100 thank you!
Good job Caleb and Dad. Always look forward to your educational work. Your videos are always educational, entertaining and nicely edited so that we the viewer can see what you guys are seeing. Some automotive videos on TH-cam can be all over the place and bad camera/video shots. So thumbs up to you guys for being aware of that
Mr. Danner is not just a good instructor/diagnostician. He is also a good story teller, a tour guide as well.
Just had this same problem with a 16 kia sedona 3.3 customer said it keeps stalling we had it for a week could not get it to stall scoped the crank sensor saw a glitch at idle told the customer let's start with the crank let's see how it goes thank you for all the knowledge you provide I appreciate you and your team
I watch videos of many good diagnosticians, but I am always convinced that ScannerDanner is the best in teaching of electrical measurements, which is actually the most important thing for an electrician. Thank you!
Thank you! That means a lot. 18 years in the classroom helps I guess 😊
The best part comes when you explain the technology causes and symptoms.
I had this same problem on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee with 5.9l. Everytime it got hot, it wouldn't start from the crank sensor. Thank you for all the brilliant information. I'm truly thankful
Pete's learned a lot from you over the years. Good to see he's putting that knowledge to use.
The legend of the green man edits were hilarious 😁 Also a great lesson on the difference between hall effects and VRS, I'm a new premium member and my notebook is almost full!!
So glad to here this! And this video is a perfect addition to my lessons in chapter 21 on testing VR sensors. Thank you!
Great job on this one. Had a Jeep doing the same thing, no start on hot soak. The family's expert "mechanic" had it for weeks, couldn't figure it out because it was not setting a code. I saw no tach and no signal on scope. Bam, new sensor problem gone. Sad, though, the owners thought it had so many issues because the other mechanic couldn't figure it out, they traded it in a real POS Silverado that's in the transmission of the month club. (I don't do heavy work like transmission swaps anymore)
Excellent video! Thank you, Caleb, for capturing those upclose shots! I've said it before Paul, the value of these videos are priceless. Having that drivability after the code set on the same ignition cycle can lead a technician down a rabbit hole trying do diagnose a problem that doesn't exist. Very cool that you guys caught that on video!
That part was unexpected and was cool! Imagine the customer complaints with that one. I guess I can see why all the ignition components were replaced? Not really lol. But thank you!
This video also nicely displayed the somewhat hidden value of the snapon scantool. In the right hands it’s a great time saver! Great video I learned a lot, thanks again!
My practice is to perform a Global OBDII. Scan, then VIN Specific Scan, and then I set my Scan-Tool to record, select the relevant/ DTC-related PIDs, and verify/replicate the symptoms.
Finally, I will create a test plan to determine the root cause.
GREAT VIDEO, as always.
Nice.
Great video nice history and beautiful country.
The excellence of this video extends to the well annotated timestamps on the timeline as well as in the description. Including local folklore while simultaneously allowing the hot soak was 👌. I'm liking the new animation for drawing circuits too.
As close to a perfect video as it's possible to get.
Thank you! I thought so too. Caleb is the man. We appreciate this feedback so much
Brother danner thank you for giving back. this information you share is a blessing!
Every time I here your son Caleb in worship i know he has a calling on his life
That's awesome. Thank you! Proud of him
Been a very long time subscriber.....even have your book....just wanted you to know how much you've helped myself and SSOO many others. Been an ASE "Master" for several years and with your help, I was recently able to pass the L1 test ! Not to sound "mushy" but Thank you for everything you do and God Bless my friend .... 🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thanks to Caleb for his brilliant work on the editing, made it look so much more professional !.and thank you Paul for the educational video on a VRS sensor. You both make quite the team .
Caleb has become a true professional videographer!
Great content as always Paul! And Caleb, we appreciate your editing skills and the time you invest in bringing this content to life! May our Lord continually bless you and the Danner family.
Thank you William!
This video had it all, Pete, the green man, graffiti and great vr sensor knowledge! Thanks for sharing!
I really appreciate Paul and his son Caleb they are doing great work and I always follow them
God rewards you both with goodness
Thank you my friend
Paul, God bless you, because I have this same joy when I have a challenge and get to learn... And I work with my son every day in our business. It all comes through.
Awesome video and capture of not only the drop out but also showing the resulting default strategy kick in that was Great. So much to learn from these videos and happy to be a premium member and have the ability to learn from the Master.
Thank you so much!
I got more than one chuckle out of this video and some knowledge to boot. Thanks for posting.
It's beautiful story about crank sensor.. amazing effort ❤ God bless you and your family.
Caleb killin it.👍💯
You guy's are Awesome👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Sorry I couldn't catch up yesterday😇
Really important one especially the way you explain theory & operation no one can👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for sharing SD, STAY BLESSED DANNER FAMILY🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you Paul and Caleb for this informative and fun to watch video😃
Kind regards from Amsterdam, the Netherlands.
Geert
Great video editing and very educational
Danner! Thanks for always sharing knowledge, you and your videos have helped me improve my skills on Scopes and as long as you keep posting I will keep watching.
Cheers.
Yes sir, really really enjoyed your diagnosis ❤
This was definitely a great video! Clearly explained, even for a simpleton like me. Shalom
I'm lucky enough to learn maximum technology from you sir and applying all your knowledge and experience in my fathers garage .. making me a hero in Qatar 😂 Thank you very much. God bless you. (Your overseas gulf student)
Love this comment and I'm proud if you my friend
Another great training video.
Great video, I learned a lot !!
thank you
Love that O2 test
Hello Paul, first thank you for all of the educational videos that you make. Please keep producing such great information. I have a 94 B250 Dodge van 3.9L automatic transmission. I am a disabled person and I would really appreciate your help. My van started out with idling lower and lower. After having a full tuneup about 5,000 miles before starting to have this problem and then it started dying on me when I would put it in reverse. So my son replaced the idle control valve. It didn't phase the idle at all. Then the van started dying on the highway or on the street. Whenever it wanted to. We would wait sometimes a short time other times we would have to wait 24 hours before the van would start again. I checked the arc of the coil it appeared weak, so my son replaced it and also replaced the wires, the plugs, distributor cap and the rotor. We thought it was fixed, but on our way home it died again. The next day we went to a auto parts store. We bought a relay and put it in, it didn't help at all. The auto store gave us a refund. After being there 8 hours a employee came over to ask what was our problem, we told him. He asked my son to crank the engine. He didn't hear the fuel pump and he said that we needed a new fuel pump. The next morning the van started again. But it seems that when something gets hot it stops sending power to the ignition coil, the fuel pump, and I think the fuel injectors. It has a carburetor and fuel injectors. Whenever the engine is running everything is getting power but when it stops running, whenever it feels like it, there is no power to the items that I mentioned above. But when the employee said that it was the fuel pump I bought it. But the next morning with a clear head I realized that it most likely was not the fuel pump; because other things are not getting power whenever something is getting hot it cuts off the power to the above mentioned items. Paul WILL YOU PLEASE HELP ME TO RESOLVE THIS ISSUE Paul. I am in a desperate situation. I can't afford to pay an automotive shop to diagnose and fix the problem.
Thank you for taking the time to read my long message. I know that I am asking a lot of you Paul. Will you please use your vast knowledge to help me. Thank you very much Paul. I will look forward to your response. God bless you!!!
You have to find out what you're missing when it is NOT starting.
Also what trouble codes is it setting? Cycle your key on,off,on,off, on and count your flashes. Code 55 is end of report
Thanks for sharing Paul and Caleb!!
Thanks Paul for another great video
Paul, with that code, at MB dealer, we always pulled the sensor, hooked up an ohm meter, and then heated up the sensor with a heat gun, they always go open when they are bad. We had to verify and move forward, replace, and we were assured that was indeed the problem.
Big thanks y'all for this video it was an amazing diag
Thank you for this info.
Thanks for posting. Great job guys. Paul have you ever heard of a Schmitt Trigger? It’s used to convert a Sine Wave into a square wave. Hence this is what the engine computer understands.
Yes I have. Thanks!
Great video, need more videos with your brother
He just did one for us for the website! It was awesome.
But for sure, you will see more of us together
thank you so much...I am in Argentina and how simple and illustrated diagnostic with Snapping scanner. Amazing I have Autel 808 and is imposible compite with so máster habilite to approach everything...great thank you. Bravo... Madonna each car with more andore sensors is like more and more poverty to pay maintenance...thank you.
Another excellent video wish I could justify or afford a nice scan tool like a snap-on but since I just do this for my own insanity & self-torture, I opted for one of the XTOOLs so far, it's done everything I need but boy howdy I love to have a full database loaded scan tool. Thanks again for your videos your knowledge is gold, my mind is like a sponge unfortunately every time I go to sleep it dries out. Some of that due to my teen drinking years, so I'll keep on watching.
Fantastic coaching & technical training !
Thanks Paul .
👊🏼 🔥 💻 📈 💡🥇
100% agreed. You cannot change apart based on a code. Worked on a 2018 Kia Optima. Hybrid, that was overheating and had a code for the coolant pump. When we looked at the engine Bay, there was no visible leaks anywhere. Hooked up pressure gauge to the Radiator and we're losing A PSI of Pressure every 30 to an hour. After looking the vehicle over 4 over an hour whenever the engine would turn on, there would be little hints of white Smoke. Thinking it might have been a head gasket issue. Wanted to verify the fault and look inside the cylinders with the boroscope. No cooling inside the cylinders whatsoever. Taking a look at the system, not able to get any Oem Diagnostic procedures as far as Entirety of Cooling system from alldata, just a brief overview. And how to take things apart. Saw that the egr was part of that system for Cooling Engine performance Reasons. Only was able to find that because of the disassembly of a coolant pipe belonging to the cooling system on alldata. Wanting to verify that the EGR cooler was leaking But didn't want to take apart. The entire exhaust system and brake bolts not be prepared to replace them, but i didn't want to take apart The entire exhaust system and brake bolts not be prepared to replace them. Took out the Second 02 sensor after the cat Also, being after the EGR. Pipe. Stuck my boroscope down in there and saw coolant. Draining into the exhaust, then proceeded to take off the first 02 sensor 2 Verify that there was no coolant coming from the actual engine because of a head gasket, failure, or something else And was able to verify dry as a bone. Then took off the pipe connecting the EGR to the EGR cooler, and it was dry as a bone. Was able to 100% confidently say that it was the E. G r cooler and nothing else in the system Was able to 100% confidently say that it was the EGR cooler and nothing else in the system. If I had just replaced a part based on the code, it would have came back Customer would have been unsatisfied And I would have been out money for the job. Also found out when the car was under warranty, they had replaced the motor for the same issue. Don't be a parts changer.👍
Love the video btw so awesome
Speaking of test light stuff, I work at a Mitsubishi dealership. In the electrical training classes they state to not use a test light because the current draw can damage a computer. It's all DVOM stuff. However, I still use mine all the time.
And therein lies why so many techs don't learn the importance of loaded circuit testing. The old wives tale of testing lights damaging modules really needs to be better explained. 95% of the time in circuit testing it will not hurt anything.
@@jeffcompton6937 I've seen the shop "master certified tech" replace modules based on a DTC many times. Many times later he finds a broken wire or is replacing a whole harness
I enjoy training with John Thorton as well. I do feel like he has a tendency to over complicate some things. He loves his scope lol. Great guy............
He's just on another level of diagnostic capabilities
Not that I'm surprised but that was an excellent description of vr sensor operation.
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing, awesome you got it to act up👍👍
Awesome video. Loved the Green man info. Here in Anthracite Penna near Shamokin we have a similar love for our heritage. We also have a person called the Green Guy , but he was tatooed and lives outside of Milton.
Excellent video Paul/Caleb very informative. I believe you showed the cave in a video way back in the archives that goes to show you how long I’ve been a premium subscriber. I believe it was before your son was producing the videos. 👍🇺🇸 Artie
Great video Paul and Caleb as always. Want to give a thumbs up but don't have a thumb up button.
Very nice fine teach
That's my next hour sorted :)
thank you! You will really like Caleb's edits on this one. It is one of his best ones so far
"If you have the ability to cheat, then you should." -Paul Danner, 2024
So cool to hear you name drop John Thornton. I have attended many seminars from him!
He is truly the best out there
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
Interresting video.
Originally from outside of Youngstown and I remember back in the late 60's searching for the green man over in PA but nowhere near as far south as Pitts.
Thanks Dan for your great video, I love it.. the Crankshaft signal frequency increases with higher rpm but why would voltage go higer as well??!
It's a characteristic of creating voltage with magnetism. Motion, magnet, conductor.
Voltage will increase with:
1. numbet of conductors
2. strength of the magnet
3. speed of the motion (how fast we move the magnetic field)
There are a few other variables too
Thanks Paul.!
Thank you! I'll make sure Caleb gets this
I heard you say mining town. My grandfather came from Italy in the early 1918 and most of the Italians ended up in the town of minersville Pennsylvania mining coal is where my grandfather came from. Small town.
We had an older Hyundai towed in with a no start. The customer had changed the VR crank sensor and still no start. We did scope the signal cranking and there was a signal but it seemed weak. Turns out when removing the old crank sensor the o ring stayed in the bore. With 2 o rings the air gap between the sensor and trigger wheel was too wide. My first thought was a bad aftermarket sensor. When removing the customer installed sensor you could see it wasn't bottomed out in the housing. The extra o ring was the culprit.
Nice find! Good one my friend
👍some beautiful country around there.
Gold👍
Having had my own automotive repair business for many many years I told my customers that a code is not a diagnosis. A code is a symptom and that’s why we charge a diagnostic fee.
Damb...the Green Man.
Tragic!
Scary pic of him!
Hi Paul, i love your way of approaching a car problem s and the diagnostic, I've been following you for along time I even brought your book few years ago, Paul i am really sorry but I didn't see you working on any new ish car.
And does your diagnostic way would work on diesel car and again I didn't see you working on any diesel car.
Thanks
We've been working on the training offered on my website. I put most of my newer stuff there and we have a diesel systems playlist going now too with at least 11-12 different case studies and counting.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
I am no mechanic or car expert, but a reluctance sensor is a "simple coil" and needs ECU for power.
ECU forces a current thru this coil, and every time the inductance of the coil changes a voltage will appear on its terminals, and the reason the coil inductance changes is because the steel teeth of the crank pass close or not close to it. If you disconnect the sensor from ECU, you will see no signal, or extremely low one if the crank is magnetized for some reason.
The voltage that appears depends on how fast the inductance changes, ie how fast the teeth pass in front of the coil.
The ECU can provide the current referenced to ground, positive, or floated, design dependent.
It makes it own voltage. Your first statement you said it needs the ECU for power is incorrect. It needs no external power or ground to create a signal.
Some of these will have a DC bias voltage that comes from the control module (common on ABS wheel speed sensors) but this is for circuit diagnostics (opens and shorts), not sensor signal operation.
The 3 main things you need to create voltage from this type of sensor:
1. Motion
2. Magnet
3. Conductor
If you move a magnetic field across a conductor you will create voltage and in this case the rotating trigger wheel or reluctor or drive plate (whatever you want to call it) is what is moving the magnetic field
@@ScannerDanner I agree with you if the crank teeth are magnetized, but AFAIK they are not. Metal shaving do not stick to the teeth. Passing non magnetized teeth in front of a coil does not generate voltage.
Again I am not a mechanic, I am wrong thinking the crankshaft teeth are not magnetized? Thanks for the above reply.
@ikocheratcr the trigger wheel is not magnetized. The magnet is part of the crank sensor. The trigger wheel or reluctor moves the magnetic field as the teeth (ferrous material) move towards and away from the sensor
Excellent video
Thank you!
@@ScannerDanner tell Caleb he gets a raise. That profession editing 🏆🏦
Paul good day! I've got a gmc sierra 2017 in the shop running -32 on both banks for the long term and 4 or 3 on the short term both banks. While idling The air filter is new and I'm pulling 21 inhg vacuum. I can't seem to get a good consistent sensor reading even at 2k rpm. Is it possibly a heater circuit issue for those 2 upstreams? I'll run some tests on them if it's a good idea. Maybe check secondary ignition waveform too in case we have a stuck open injector? What's your opinion?
i was sitting out in the shop thinking about these things the other day as far as mecanical to the computer base strategy, so simply i thought of chess. it a fairly simple game but it has experts on strategy for it. well for us techs it has gone to whats the chess game for firing the injectors, what the chess game for the spark plugs etc. we know what the car needs to run but we have to go through the engineers chess game for diagnosis. hope you get it
Back in the day, GM 2.8/3.1 crank sensors would die all the time after hot soak. No code because OBD1,
That is why we always did an ohm reading on a 2 wire and heated it with a heat gun and look for the open reading. On MB cars, best test practice we found early in the failure days.
Do you have suggestions for how much drive time is enough in order to attempt to duplicate?Do you suggest additional labor time charged up front for intermittent diagnostics? Appreciate your effort put into these case studies.
It depends how intermittent it is on whether I'll even take the job in! So there are a huge range of variables here. But yes, every minute you spend on a car, is testing time that should be billed for
@@ScannerDanner Hate it when the svc writer lures them in with a .5 diag labor time elect/driveability issue, only to promise getting you "caught up later" if diag time eclipses .5 or even 1 hour.
Something I’ve come across on a diesel Hyundai Santa fa is it needs to read 250rmp for the fuel pump to kick in
The initial interview with the customer is very important. Some service advisors don't get enough information for the technician. Trouble shooter is good when used . John Thornton has the best verbage in the auto industry.
He really does
great job caleb. tell the old fart you dont need no P just the RAISE. lol
😂
Good morning Mr. Danner!
I'm Brazilian, from the city of Rio de Janeiro, I really like your classes and I look for them as references for my research into possible defects on my motorcycle: Hyosung GV650. I will write my question and if you can suggest a video with something similar or that you can give your opinion on, I would be very grateful.
in a twin-cylinder engine, looking at the CKP x primary/secondary of the coil, each cylinder shows a different timing value, each with a different tooth on the ignition pulses, for example: at idle, the ignition firing of cylinder 1 (FRONT) appears on the 13th tooth (the TDC mark is on the eighth tooth of the rotor) and the ignition firing of cylinder 2 (REAR) appears on the eighth tooth (the TDC mark for cylinder 2 is on the second tooth of the rotor), with the ignition point of 5° (BTDC) in the workshop manual, what generates this difference in readings on the oscilloscope?
The Rotor has 24-2 teeth. and I counted the teeth for the TDC reference starting from the widest gap (the fault), counting from left to right in the oscilloscope image, but the motor has a direction of rotation: counterclockwise.
Let's move this to my forum www.scannerdanner.com
It is free to join and we can definitely help you. I have 28k global members and hand picked moderators who've been with me for years and know my material inside and out and are there to help me help you guys. It is just too difficult to offer back and forth messages here on TH-cam with stuff like this and we also can't share pictures and images here like we can on the website. Hope to see you there!
Just an FYI They now have a 2 wire hall effect sensor Now.
Paul, but when they say it did not start did they crank it and when it didn't immediately start they stopped or didi they hold the key and crank it like you did until it started? There is a chance that one of Pete's guys cranked it, but did not crank it long enough to get it to start.
Not sure but pete himself was the one that cranked it over.
HI ScannerDanner, I'm from Brazil, I want to buy your E-book and print it, can I do it or do I need to buy the printed version on aeswave?
Because send the printed version to Brazil will be expensive and I'll need to pay almost 92% of taxes over the shipping + product value.
You can't print directly from the eBook but there is nothing stopping you from doing print screen and paste into another program then printing individual pages from there. It's not ideal but it can be done. Hope that works for you. Thank you!
Did you mean there are a lot less samples going on on the screen LOL Scope has less to process and thus making the Image more clear?
The samples didn't change, the sample interval does. The longer the time base, the longer the interval is between samples
@@ScannerDanner I may have put that wrong LOL
what scann tool you using like Snapon? which model?
Verus Edge
🔧✌️🔧
I noticed with a low amplitude and no start, if I have a manual transmission, I can tow-start the car, then I get a higher RPM, and the car starts.
Nice!
Where are you located in the Pittsburgh area?
In the Pittsburgh area 🙂
@@ScannerDanner I live south of the city, what is your address. I have an evap leak and need a diagnosis and repair.
What should most people charge for diagnostic time?
It varies greatly on a car by car basis.
Shops need to be charging way more then they currently are. Too many shops are still undervaluing the diag process because customers don't understand what it actually involves skill wise. They think a 10 dollar code reader and an Amazon crank sensor is doing diag so they don't wanna pay. The industry doesn't need those type of customers that just want to constantly feel ripped off. They can just go buy another car then if they can't trust a technician.
Hi , Why didn't you create the problem again with a heat gun?
We didn't feel the need for any additional testing. But that would have been cool too
In the picture, is that you with the bandana?
Yes it is lol
can you please explain....
Why why why???
Today's modern cars eg Toyota Glanza, Toyota Taisor, has 12V and then drops to 7V in the door close signal voltage.
Whereas, it used to be directly 12V when door closed and 0V when opened in old cars.
But today's cars has 12V at door closed, and after 20 seconds, it drops to constant 7V. When opening, it drops to 0V.
Why there's delay in dropping to 7V at door closed??
What's the significance of this 12V to 7V???
Please explain 😊
If I had more to offer I would have replied. The best I got as I mentioned before, and since I have not researched this circuit, is this may provide additional circuit monitoring capability. The how's and why's you'll have to investigate.
Did it turn out to be a fractured crank sensor that happens when it's hot?
Not sure if the housing was cracked or not. These will fail like this with no visual signs too
Can the sensor be poured cold water and continue driving when the engine is shut
In a pinch that may work for a bit
Hey danner I have a question 2011 jeep grand cherokee 3.6 , upon reading the data on scan tool accelerator sensor is getting sudden drop in voltage what could it be I tried replacing pedal but still doing the same thing????
I have a video on this. It is "normal" to see app2 dropouts in scan data on these. Sorry, you've been barking up the wrong tree my friend
@ScannerDanner that's what I was thinking thanks for confirming that for me I was about to diagnose tps ...
Can you put link to the video where you talk about that
@MrSouthside2021 this one is on my website (sorry)
www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/chapter-7-potentiometers/chapter-7-potentiometers/276-chapter-7-potentiometers-pages-10-15.html
Okay thanks danner I was close to replacing throttle body
Can a shorted "signal" wire , cause a 5v reference to short , or cause the computer to think it is shorted (Buick lacrosse 2010)
The OB2 says 5v reference 'c' is shorted to ground , but it reads 5v the multimeter on its reference wire and shared 5v references, the diagram says v5 Reference 3 (which I am sure means "C" ,OB2 say 'c'') . The map sensor or barometric pressure sensor shares with Acc pedal, actually it is the only share 5v reference on the diagram for reference 3).
I notice the Buick has 2 map sensors , one at the air filter and the other actually at the intake manifold, (the diagram calls the one on the air filter a barometric, and code was for barometric , but then the diagram says there is a map sensor , which finding is a barometric also ) so it confused me, but all the 5v references read fine on the meter (5v , even on both Barometric 5v wires ).
I replaced all the sensors and acc pedal and throttle body and was thinking of replacing the Ecm until I saw your videos.
So , my question can a shorted "signal" wire throw a code for a shorted 5v reference ? Because at first I was thinking the computer isn't feeding a ground but according to you what I am understanding it will increase the voltage, not cause a low voltage (PS don't know the difference between loss and drop yet fully understand there is a difference, and I understand a low can mean a high vacuum , and a high means low vacuum, I am just trying to get the car fixed I seen enough Billni for now (another Ps that is not true rather the opposite ) haha though I will continue did get me interested )
also, correlation codes but the car runs but goes into limp mode if full throttle.
No, a shorted signal wire will only affect that one sensor. Visual inspections of the harness routing for the sensors that share that reference circuit are in order here. Look for points of contact (heat and vibration are the areas to look at)
@@ScannerDanner Thanks alot ! Made it easier
@@ScannerDanner I tested the wires, and from low ref to 5v , all acc pedal , and both map sensors read 5v o r 4.99ish , so the computer isn't bad or grounds at least, i didn't test 5v to signal wire because i don't have a resistor in handy right away.
So, my question , I know your busy , But can a signal wire cause the computer to think that there is a 5v ref short , because everything seems fine from . low ref to high ref/5v ref and can Use a fuse with two wires tie on each end instead of a resistor ?
@user-zx1xu9in2p nope. You have to recreate the fault. You have a code, but that doesn't mean it's happening right now. If you clear the code does it come immediately back? If not, none of the tests you did are of any value unfortunately
@@ScannerDanner makes sense thanks
If I was the owner, I'd be worried if the shop just changed the sensor based only on the code. But didn't do the thorough testing to reproduce the fault to rule out other problems.
It all depends then on if the customer is willing to pay for all the time it took for them to prove out the sensor. This isn't a half hour diag. It took time. So u may say as a customer I don't just want a sensor installed because of a dtc but in this case it would have fixed the car. So u as a customer then need to pay for the time to prove its only a crank sensor. Otherwise you the customer pay for the guess. The thing that stays the same is customer is responsible for payment because customer owns the car. The shop doesn't owe u any freebies.
Suppose it's the ECM getting short to ground inside ?
I've never seen that on a VRS circuit. That would have to be something catastrophic that melted inside of that board and that certainly wouldn't be from this input signal, so you'd have other symptoms as well as it wouldn't be an intermittent issue.
@@ScannerDanner You are right,
1:41
what does "TAC" mean?
Throttle actuator control (electronic throttle body)