Just this week alone you've saved me $1500 on repair shop work, I acquired new tools but that happens, You've done a damn fine job on the Xterra DIY and I definitely Thank you.
Thanks for this video! Between you and some of the ADO videos I was able to install my Koni lift kit including UCA's and cam bolts at home. Saved me at least $650!
Probably saved you even a couple hundred more than that I had someone quote me 850 for all that so I did the same bought a few new tools and popped ry the car guy on the phone and a few hours later drove to the alignment shop and bam done!!!
Another really good video. I like how you don’t over explain things but you explain things just right in order for anyone to do the job. Your videos have saved me several expensive jobs as they gave me the confidence to do some of them on my own. Keep up the good work.
Instead of using chassis grease, use a Permatex Ant-seize on the bolt body and threads. It too will lubricates and prevent corrosion. There are 2 different kinds one is silver and the other is copper. I prefer the copper cause it's easier to see amongst the road grime and dirt. My2¢
You've saved me thousands brother on my 06 pathfinder..Your my go 2 guy,..I know this is unrelated to this Video, But How can u do A " Fuel Pressure test on my vehicle?? ( same as your X)
I did this job a few weeks ago. Was a nightmare on driver side with the bolt coming out toward the shaft. Rust didnt help. Think I may have caused a leak in the main seal of the rack from pounding it off the rack shaft. FYI be careful of that.
Great video. But, on the driver side, if you unbolt the brake lines they will move far enough to get a breaker bar on that bolt. Saves time :) I suppose if yours is all rusted up and need more torque, it might be dangerous to the lines if you slip. Im in AZ, we dont have rust issues.
Currently doing the same as part of the ICON 2.5 inch lift on my 2012 Titan. When removing the driver's side UCA rear bolt I managed to get a small leak in one of the brake tubes like you. You mentioned noticing a brake tube leak as well and I was wondering if you are doing a video on changing that out or if you have changed yours and any advice. I ordered 46220-7S210 tube assembly with all of the hard lines as mine are all corroded (thanks to living in the rust belt) to change all at once. Thanks! You videos are great and helpful.
Interesting. I found the upper control arm bolts torque to be 155 pounds. Which seems like a lot but its what i found. Also get you a 4 pound deadblow makes your life cake.
@@Rythecarguy I just finished changing the crankshaft positioning sensor on my X. It’s a little different than the one you replaced on your video. 153k on my X, and I never would have considered doing it if I never saw your video. YOU ARE DA MAN!!!
Okay Guess what when you look at this. You have cut out the part where I am needing an extra hand. Driver side: left bolt and nut Ball joint nut and cotter pin No problem. Steering shaft bolt nut spins. I didn't see that it had flat piece to lock pliers on it. Wait few days. Got it problem solved. Now that right side bolt and nut. Haha It is facing inward. Not on the outside of the control arm. Your video cuts out. So now I am praying and prying the lower steering column out of the way of the bolt to get it out. And I pray that this works. Because I still gotta do the passenger side. 😭🤣
well passenger side will be easy. No steering. The driver side you can disconnect that steering link if you need to get it out of the way. If you check out my xterra UCA video, I go through that process. On the Titan I just didn't need to do it. I just moved the UCA around and the bolt came out. Nothing to show.
If the replacement part is the exact same as the original, you should not have to get an alignment. If you're going after market and the dimensions change, then yes you need to get it realigned.
I did this job a few weeks ago. Was a nightmare on driver side with the steering shaft removal and it being rusted didnt help. Think I may have caused a leak in the main seal of the rack from pounding it off the shaft. FYI be careful of that.
Just this week alone you've saved me $1500 on repair shop work, I acquired new tools but that happens, You've done a damn fine job on the Xterra DIY and I definitely Thank you.
Hell yea, I love hearing stuff like this. So glad to help man. Keep on keeping on.
@@Rythecarguy you need to setup a PayPal account so we can pay you for the time,
Thanks for this video! Between you and some of the ADO videos I was able to install my Koni lift kit including UCA's and cam bolts at home. Saved me at least $650!
HECK yes. Thats what this channel is all about.
Probably saved you even a couple hundred more than that I had someone quote me 850 for all that so I did the same bought a few new tools and popped ry the car guy on the phone and a few hours later drove to the alignment shop and bam done!!!
Another really good video. I like how you don’t over explain things but you explain things just right in order for anyone to do the job. Your videos have saved me several expensive jobs as they gave me the confidence to do some of them on my own. Keep up the good work.
I appreciate that! Really glad they help! :D
Instead of using chassis grease, use a Permatex Ant-seize on the bolt body and threads. It too will lubricates and prevent corrosion. There are 2 different kinds one is silver and the other is copper. I prefer the copper cause it's easier to see amongst the road grime and dirt. My2¢
👍🏻
That’s my kind of spring compressor! Good stuff
use what cha got! 🤘🏻
You've saved me thousands brother on my 06 pathfinder..Your my go 2 guy,..I know this is unrelated to this Video, But How can u do A " Fuel Pressure test on my vehicle?? ( same as your X)
Hey Geoff. Thanks for supporting the channel and I am glad that they help. I like the video idea and I should be able to do that as a video.
Very descriptive video. Thank you! Sound sense of humor as well. (garage feels like a Beach)😎
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching. :D
I did this job a few weeks ago. Was a nightmare on driver side with the bolt coming out toward the shaft. Rust didnt help. Think I may have caused a leak in the main seal of the rack from pounding it off the rack shaft. FYI be careful of that.
👍🏻
See you on the next one Ry.
🤘🏻
Good video and step by step, I still debating to either just change the ball joints or swap both upper and lower control arms, thanks for the heads up
You're welcome thanks for watching
Great video. But, on the driver side, if you unbolt the brake lines they will move far enough to get a breaker bar on that bolt. Saves time :)
I suppose if yours is all rusted up and need more torque, it might be dangerous to the lines if you slip. Im in AZ, we dont have rust issues.
Great tip!
Currently doing the same as part of the ICON 2.5 inch lift on my 2012 Titan. When removing the driver's side UCA rear bolt I managed to get a small leak in one of the brake tubes like you. You mentioned noticing a brake tube leak as well and I was wondering if you are doing a video on changing that out or if you have changed yours and any advice. I ordered 46220-7S210 tube assembly with all of the hard lines as mine are all corroded (thanks to living in the rust belt) to change all at once. Thanks! You videos are great and helpful.
Good explanation RY
Thanks!
Interesting. I found the upper control arm bolts torque to be 155 pounds. Which seems like a lot but its what i found. Also get you a 4 pound deadblow makes your life cake.
Excellent!
Thanks
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Another great video, Ryan. Thanks!
No, thank YOU for watching. 🤘🏻
@@Rythecarguy I just finished changing the crankshaft positioning sensor on my X. It’s a little different than the one you replaced on your video. 153k on my X, and I never would have considered doing it if I never saw your video. YOU ARE DA MAN!!!
Thanks dude, anything I can do help! 👍🏻💪🏻
Thanks a lot 👍
You're welcome a lot. Have a great day!
thank you
You're welcome!
Good job 👍
Thanks!
Hey Ry. A little off topic, but can you go over in a video what type of basic tools do you recommend having in your xterra? Thanks
Great idea! I will likely do that on my second channel as its not a strict "how to".
Probably the difference is the 5.6L vs the 4.0L engine
Do you have videos on how to change a passenger side Rear control arm with ball joint.
Sorry. That would be armada only. Titan is solid rear axel.
Where do you obtain torque settings for all these parts?
Thanx
You’re welcome
11:36 were the UCA frame brackets slotted? I saw a non-cammed bolt going back in (for future utility?)
If I'm just replacing the upper control arms on a stock Pro-4x Xterra, do I need to do an alignment after?
I always would realign after changing suspension parts
Looking for a Rear Upper control arm, only finding the Front Upper. Are the parts interchagable? (2012 Nissan Armada)
Okay
Guess what when you look at this. You have cut out the part where I am needing an extra hand.
Driver side:
left bolt and nut
Ball joint nut and cotter pin
No problem.
Steering shaft bolt nut spins. I didn't see that it had flat piece to lock pliers on it.
Wait few days.
Got it problem solved.
Now that right side bolt and nut. Haha
It is facing inward. Not on the outside of the control arm.
Your video cuts out. So now I am praying and prying the lower steering column out of the way of the bolt to get it out. And I pray that this works. Because I still gotta do the passenger side. 😭🤣
well passenger side will be easy. No steering. The driver side you can disconnect that steering link if you need to get it out of the way. If you check out my xterra UCA video, I go through that process. On the Titan I just didn't need to do it. I just moved the UCA around and the bolt came out. Nothing to show.
Had some upper control arms put on my frontier and an alignment done. My Vehicle Stability Control light came on. Do you know why that would happen?
Happened to me too, did you get your issue resolved?
@@SamuelRodriguez-mo4ru still not resolved. I learned to live with it..
You accidentally disconnected or damaged the wheel speed sensor wires. Check the connector, clean it, and reconnect it.
What is the symptom of bad upper control arm? Thnx!
Its more about the ball joint not the arm itself. A bad ball joint will give you clunking, rattling, knocking, and uneven wear on your tires.
Unfortunately my bolt is on the same side as the steering thing. And of course, I can't get it out.
Womp womp. Did you try the wedge method I did in the video?
@@Rythecarguy I had to remove the lower part otherwise it is totally in the way. My bolt was facing the other way.
Hi Im kind of want to do the upper arm replacement but my question is do I need to get my Nissan armada alignment after I do this???
If the replacement part is the exact same as the original, you should not have to get an alignment. If you're going after market and the dimensions change, then yes you need to get it realigned.
Wats the diferents from stock to aftermarket??
Nothing, its the OEM design. I just wanted to swap mine out cause they were a little rusty and I wanted to make a video on it.
Shiny new coilovers next video?! 🤭
Yep!! 5100's with prototype ADO springs!
FIRSTTTT
Niiiice
I did this job a few weeks ago. Was a nightmare on driver side with the steering shaft removal and it being rusted didnt help. Think I may have caused a leak in the main seal of the rack from pounding it off the shaft. FYI be careful of that.
👍🏻