I just completed my Y-axel upgrade with linear rods, linear bearings and support plate, carriage or what ever you want to call it. For the first time ever it is finally stable, precise and doesn't need to be re-leveled all the damn time. I think your mod was really not thought thru. As long as you don't have a rigid (i.e. metallic) support plate you're screwed, no mater how awesome everything is ...IMHO :)
I just completed my Y-axis too finally in 2024 🤣I used two aluminum 2020 extrusions and the same plate wheels. The acrilic plate was reinforced with a 3d printed mod. Now it's very rigid and prints like a dream 😄
Greetings David. Its true and i love this upgrade. I also upgraded the table but instead of aluminium i have the carbon fiber because is much lighter. I posted that video too. Regards
Glad for all the tevo videos, but I have to play excellerated for time. Almost two minute unboxing is a bit much, but thanks for taking the time and the suggestions.
Have you thought about limiting the acceleration? The table is heavy and you can see a little shaking in the timing belt when the direction is reversed. Had such problems with my printhead, its a direct dual extruder, which makes the printhead heavy with its two steppers on it. This got really visible when printing a cube and changing the movement from one axis to the other. For example when moving along x and then changing direction to y, there is a kind of wavy surface along the y axis. Not much, but visible. Limiting the acceleration solved that. I use slice3r, it has an option for that.
Greetings Flyby. Thank you so much for your true and valid comment. In fact, there are many issues that can cause print quality issues such as backlash/belts loose, vibrations, jerk and acceleration, etc. It's true about adjusting the acceleration and jerk and i had to. My point in this video is to show that the rail will reduce the vibration and flexibility in that axis. Some vibrations in the printhead are also induced by the acrylic support that is not stiff. To improve even more i suggest replacing that acrylic piece with a carbon fiber one (that i will show in my next videos). Regards
Hopefully you cleaned the protecting gunk off the bearings first and added proper grease. If not, it'll wear prematurely and not run as smooth since the lubrication that is typically provided with those are only really meant for preventing corrosion.
I have the mgn12 rail like the one you have in the video, but i can't get the M3x8 screws into the rail holes. Did you tap the holes? or did they originally come threaded? Mine are not threaded.
Greetings Androidzombie1 The rail does not have tapped holes. They are normally drilled for M3 screws. Maybe you got a different rail model or the manufacturer made wrong size holes :(
Hola buenas, Si fueras tan amable de indicarme las medidas para los ejes z,x,y y que tipo de guía lineal llevan si es la mgn12h o cual,seria para una tevo tarantula, Gracias y fabuloso por los videos que subes
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Hi, which kind of differences made after this mod? Is there a comparison photo we can show the improvements? P.s. you should use a nut before hotbed screws.
Hi Necati, I don't have any specific picture to show you but the improvement is clear. Rails are much better than wheels. You have much more stability and performance with these type of rails. Regarding the nuts before the hotbed screws, i'm not sure what you mean but the way i assembled its not wrong ;)
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I mean this. lh3.googleusercontent.com/M2IDJafpE99unOL6ZZRo7Y38nnb46KFGLJn4pmRZnaBIh6uaXiQOpUz-RO49UIxI_MZbGjbL5Ztu2A=w2160-h2880-rw-no
I used your videos when I first got my first 3d printer a couple of years ago. Thank you so much for these! I have a question about this upgrade though. When you add the rail, that raises the bed up slightly. Doing so adds a slight angle to the belt, meaning it no longer runs flat and perpendicular to the frame. Does this cause any errors in the prints or have you done something to compensate for this change in angle? I have read a few comments, I apologize if this has been asked before, but I didn't see it.
Hi Derek, Yes, the belt raises a bit but you need to pass the belt (at the carriage) from the bottom up and not from the up side down. It's not ideal to have the belt with an angle. The ideal is to have the belt parallel but if you will not print engineering parts then you will not notice that much.
i see,thank you for promot reply...i was worried about the conflict between rail and belt for mgn12h, but it is obvious that there is no conflict...what do you think about mgn9h? is it too small? also i am planning to use mgn9h for x and z axes by making some modifications to improve the precision
Hi rui i've seen all your videos to improve my tarantula they are great. What's the size of the m3 screw? Do you recommend any store in Aliexpress to buy the rails?
Hello. Your videos helped a lot on my tarantula thank you. I was wondering if you installed this upgrade on your x axis? One of my concentric nuts on my extruder plate wont get tight enough and lets the whole plate wobble. I ordered 2 rails and it looks like the belt might hit on the edge of the rail on the x. Just wondering if you attempted this yet and if you had any tips/info.
Greetings, thank you for your comment. About the rail, I didn't install on my X axis. In my opinion, the X axis works great as is. In your case you have the problem with the eccentric nut so you either replace the nut or install the rail...
When you install the rail, the biggest issue is that the hotend will be higher (rail is higher than the wheels) so it will be at the same lever as the aluminum profile. You need to make an adaptor so that the nozzle will be lower than the aluminum profile....
About the belt, i'm not sure but i think that it will be very close but will not touch the rail. If it does, you will need to print the X pulley plates with a modification. I think that some users already did this modification in our facebook group. You can ask there and also get some pictures of the installation.
Rui, I have the rail but I guess I am not smart enough to do the math. How did you determine the spacing for the drilled holes? I tried measuring and drilling the holes but the spacing did not come out right so I had to print the Y Carriage so I could try again. Thanks
Hi Eliot, I have an idea...download the datasheet and print the layout page where you have the holes distances. place that over the carriage and drill the holes.
+ruiraptor Thank you. Do you have a link that I can get exactly what you are talking about? I found a few but none of the ones I found will work. Great videos by the way and your website is pretty cool!
Hi Tom, Being an acrylic part, i decided to make the holes first on a part that, if something went wrong, it would not make a difference. And with that, i used the H part as a jig to drill the final piece.
Hi, I have been looking into this for a while now. I know that I need a 400mm long rail, but I am not sure what MGN to choose? MGN 7 H, MGN 9 H or MGN 12 H? What is the difference?
Hi! many thanks for your videos! I'm waiting for my kit, and I'm thinking about make some of the upgrades that you say because they look very interesting. . To install that rail you need to drill to install it? Do you know if the carbon fiber kit comes ready to be mounted on that rail? Thanks again!!
Greetings Antonio, I also have a video of the Carbon fiber instalation...and yes, the Mackers.it carbon fiber kit is already prepared for rails and wheels. Check my other videos for more information :)
Why is the rail better than the roller? I'm in the process of designing other printers too, and I'm just wondering which form of linear motion is the best.
Hi Emanuel, Rails are better because they are more robust and stable. Easier to work with and a good one last longer than wheels. Think like this...a high end printer uses rails or wheels?...rails for sure.
ruiraptor Thanks for the quick reply, very informative. I don't know about the z axis though. I'm building a corexy and putting linear rails seems like it's a lot harder to mount
Rails is best option for linear motion, but i think it's not worth it on 3D printer.. there are almost no forces. It's more suitable for engraving or routing machines. If i build some 3D printer (or upgrading some) i would replace aluminium extrusion with something that are better conected in corners like welded steel square tubes
Gosh, i almost want to send some sockets. Its hard to watch you work with box ends! Great videos, so much work went in. A little editing would make them so much more useful. Thanks for sparing all the ridiculous ego centric chatter so many videos bore watchers with. Again thanks!
Hmm I think going to a twin rail y axis would be ultimately the best option. More work in the mod but way bro stable. I think no matter what system you use, a single rail with all the overhang of a printer bed there will be issues..
Greetings PlaneCrazy, For the Z i recommend dual rail. For Y i dont see the need. The system is very stable with one rail. One thing i would change ( and i mention in the description ) is change the acrylic bed frame for an aluminium one.
I'm in the middle of ordering aluminium parts do you know of a stl file that has the holes for this rail already in there so I can give the company the right dimensions?
Still working! They have maintenance ( the old grease is removed and replaced with new grease ) from time to time and that helps a lot in keeping the rails in perfect shape
Your videos are an amazing help for newbs, I haven't received mine yet but I ordered the bigger bed, will be te same rail length? 400mm or I will need a longer one? Thanks in advance !
I have been following your videos and they are great. I totally recommend the brackets they have taken my Tevo From a so-so Printer to a very good printer. Can you give your slicer settings and your bed height settings.
Greetings Vbart, I'm using Cura. My bed height settings are manual (no auto-level) with 0 offset. I'm still tweeking my settings but i can share some info: * Print speed=40 ; * Top/Bottom thickness=0.6 ; * Fill density=50% ; * Temperature =212 ; * Bed temperature = 60 ; * Layer height =(varies) ; * Rectraction speed = 50 ; * Retraction distance = 8 ; initial layer thickness = 0.3.
intresting, that rail costs more than the entire thing, somehow i dont get it why brother at all when the base is wobbling on 4 spring loaded screws and the whole structure flexes
Hi Ivan, Here's an example where you can get them: www.banggood.com/pt/MGN12H-250300500550mm-Linear-Rail-Guide-Linear-Sliding-Guide-Block-CNC-Tool-p-1156260.html?p=84280421195697201804&
If you raise the plate you have to move up the idler pulleys as well to avoid the angle you have in the belt now. Basic trigonometry... Your table now moves in in non-linear distances, depending on how close it is to one or the other pulley. Of course, this is irrelevant if you only print toys but if you want precision and accuracy then you have to consider this point and spend some time on correcting this error in your "improvement".
Hi, You are correct but the issue here is that i passed the belt from the top on the carriage. In my next video (carbon fiber upgrade) the belt is installed from the bottom side and that way the angle is much smaller.
when you are done with all improvement, how much cost the printer? Maybe buying a better one the first time instead of spending time and money on modifications will be the good choice? I say that since the goal is to print, not redoing a printer...
Hi Woody, You are correct about that, but mind that you don't need ALL the upgrades. Some are important and some are nice to have. I made a video explaining that and what are (imo) the most important upgrades. You can watch it here: th-cam.com/video/srYLCs-9tok/w-d-xo.html I also made a video about the most important addons here: th-cam.com/video/73KTJmifeAE/w-d-xo.html
The Tarantula is good only for one thing. To have parts for another one. :) I had a tarantula and after a fail atempt of improving it, I made a new one. :) With rail or without it, this printer is just for parts.
I would have used the printer to print a centering jig as it could be used for future purposes as well and would be more accurate and faster when you have to tear down and replace.
Ruiraptor, nice Job, thanks for all the videos. I trying to make my tarantula better as well.... A Question, MGN15 (15mm wide) rail would not be better? In Aliexpress they sligthly more expensive.
Greetings Jozsef, The MGN15 is higher ( which will make you loose Z height ) and wider. Being a wider and more robust carriage and rail, will last longer and maintain stability for a longer time since it can handle more load but if you get a true quality MGN12 combo you will not have any issues with it. Regards
I'm going for the MGN 15 H, it's only 3mm height dif and if you go full aluminium or CF, you will not need 2 plates like in acrylic (what Tivo calls overlay to strengthen) so Z height loss should not be much of a worry. Right? do you see what I mean Rui? I don't know if it is worth the extra cost tho. What is your opinion?
MGN15 is pointless in this sort of application. If I upgrade my CNC I will use MGN15 because I am milling aluminium as well, but for a 3D printer, even MGN9 is more than enough. As for the "lasting longer"... I don't believe that MGN15 lasts longer than MGN12 or MGN9 in a 3D printer. All three will last as long as you live if you don't have binding, but... one single rail is in my opinion not a good idea, so if I'd have this printer, the first thing I'd do is upgrading to dual rail.
Greetings Miguel, You can improve that by passing the belt (through the hole) under the plate instead of over it. That way the belt is "more parallel" to the rail plane. in fact, that way it's very close to being parallel. In this video i passed the belt over the plate because it's easier but i agree that if the belt is installed the other way it's better.
Can you send me link to this product? Today i bought my Tarantula and now I must collect other items for upgrade the printer. P.S Is this bed support good? www.aliexpress.com/item/Funssor-TEVO-Tarantula-3D-Printer-aluminum-composit-MGN12H-CARRIAGE-VERSION-Y-Carriage-Stiff-Plate-heated-support/32847649569.html
Greetings, Yes, you can use an MGN12 rail in your X and Z axis, but for those axis is not that simple. For the X axis you will need a new hotend support to lower it (the rail will raise the hotend) and for the Z axis you will need longer Z motor support.
Greetings, Yes, it's possible to install the rail system in the X axis but you need some modifications. One issue is that you will have your hotend higher than the horizontal metal profile. You need to make a modification in your X carriage so that the hotend maintains it's height even with the higher rail. In my opinion, the Y and Z are the ones that require the rail modification. The X axis is not so important because it is not that heavy and therefore the original wheel system works ok. Regards
Greetings, My Y axis homes outside the bed area (my choice) so i wanted a longer rail. Also, a 400mm rail is the same length as the Y profile so i get full movement if i need to.
Hi, you are correct but it's angled because the belt loops over the Y carriage and later i corrected it by looping the belt under the Y carriage. You can see what i mean in the carbon fiber Y carriage video.
Linear guides are precision parts. They must be delivered in a rigid box, wooden for example. The bubble wrap is useless. Even a small effort during transport can cause 1/10 mm loss in linearity. Did you check with a 1/100 comparator for flatness defects on the length after mounting ? Look on the machining forums how those who converts a conventional milling machine into a CNC machine install this type of guidance. It's complex to adjust. Even if the displacement is improved, the principle of fixing and adjusting the bed does not improve the accuracy of the machine.
Instead of screws they could of used magnets on the Y axis heating bed. I plan on getting a Tevo Taruntula, but my current Robo3d R1 has magnets on the Y axis.
Sure hope you fixed the belt issue you created... ya know, where now its no longer a flat plane and is angled? this can make super inaccurate prints....
Hi, i commented this below. The issue was that i looped the belt over the Y carriage plate and should have looped under it. In my next video (carbon y carriage upgrade) you can see that.
If you're going to show the test print, show the results of the print and not just the carriage moving back and forth. We all know it moves. We want to see the effect it has on print quality. Seems like there's a far smaller surface area holding the entire bed in place with this mod. The stability of the entire bed, especially when printing on the outside edges, seems like it would be compromised.
Hi Hunter, I haven't found the thing file you posted. Anyway, there are some printable beds but in my opinion, they will not be as good as the carbon/aluminum ones.
Hi Piter, Here's an example where you can get them: www.banggood.com/pt/MGN12H-250300500550mm-Linear-Rail-Guide-Linear-Sliding-Guide-Block-CNC-Tool-p-1156260.html?p=84280421195697201804&
i wanted to buy the tevo tarantula with the flex extruder and the auto level sensor. I have heared many youtubers say that it is very good but it has some problems with stability. I what you would recomed me to buy for fixing that.
Hi Dimitris, The tarantula is in fact very good. Get the big heatbed but don't buy the auto level sensor. You can work perfectly without it or you can buy a better one for less. Regarding the stability, just follow my tips and upgrade videos and you will be fine. If you need more help i can give you when you start to assemble the printer. There is also a big official tarantula facebook group that you can join and learn more about the printer. facebook.com/groups/TEVO.3dprinter.owners/
it doesnt look right......its rocking back and forth..... during Y direction change....you can even see that in video....and i think that is not this part's fault.
You are correct. That is due to the flex of the stock acrylic carriage. And that's why i recommend the upgrade for the stiffer carriage in a following video. The carbon carriage is the best choice.
Rui, Although I already sent you the templates for the hole placement, I uploaded the .pdf and .svg files to Google Drive and they can be accessed with the following links.. Y Carriage Stiffener PDF drive.google.com/file/d/0B1n5xMEyJw8FTEU4c0cxZnczSjgyX0hXUzhQNFp1UE9PQlZn/view?usp=sharing Y Carriage Stiffener SVG drive.google.com/file/d/0B1n5xMEyJw8FalBtbFYxSHdMWTNzYktqTU9BaDY0YkRDa2Nn/view?usp=sharing
Hi dumle29, Actually, the printer works great with the springs. They are compressed so not much negative effect there. Although my setup is really stable and I don’t level the bed for a long time, i want to keep the ability to adjust the bed level since I don’t have any auto level sensor.
Such uprade is pointless unless You are using two mgn cariages on one rail. With only one the bed shakes more than on orginal Y axis drive. It is better to use two separate v-slot extrusions like in CR-105s . Moreover, china cheap mgn rails and cariages are poor quality and the hiwin are to expensive for tinkering. Generally speaking. Tevo is poor 3d printer. The extrusions are low quality and there are better 3d printers in similar price range.
Did you turn the eccentric nuts? If you already turned the eccentric nuts, there is also a few tips you can try like flipping the acrylic plate up side down. More tips here: th-cam.com/video/IH6ctMkp0N8/w-d-xo.html
I just completed my Y-axel upgrade with linear rods, linear bearings and support plate, carriage or what ever you want to call it. For the first time ever it is finally stable, precise and doesn't need to be re-leveled all the damn time.
I think your mod was really not thought thru. As long as you don't have a rigid (i.e. metallic) support plate you're screwed, no mater how awesome everything is ...IMHO :)
I just completed my Y-axis too finally in 2024 🤣I used two aluminum 2020 extrusions and the same plate wheels. The acrilic plate was reinforced with a 3d printed mod. Now it's very rigid and prints like a dream 😄
This is a great upgrade also I used an aluminum plate both upgrades work great thanks
Greetings David. Its true and i love this upgrade. I also upgraded the table but instead of aluminium i have the carbon fiber because is much lighter. I posted that video too. Regards
This technology has always been interesting.
Just got my rail today ! Installing it this week ! Also waiting for my second Z motor and rod.
Hi Patrick.
You will love those upgrades.
ruiraptor cant wait to have them installed!
Glad for all the tevo videos, but I have to play excellerated for time. Almost two minute unboxing is a bit much, but thanks for taking the time and the suggestions.
does it possible to have a video like this for tevo tornado?it will be a great upgrade
Have you thought about limiting the acceleration? The table is heavy and you can see a little shaking in the timing belt when the direction is reversed. Had such problems with my printhead, its a direct dual extruder, which makes the printhead heavy with its two steppers on it. This got really visible when printing a cube and changing the movement from one axis to the other. For example when moving along x and then changing direction to y, there is a kind of wavy surface along the y axis. Not much, but visible. Limiting the acceleration solved that. I use slice3r, it has an option for that.
Greetings Flyby.
Thank you so much for your true and valid comment. In fact, there are many issues that can cause print quality issues such as backlash/belts loose, vibrations, jerk and acceleration, etc. It's true about adjusting the acceleration and jerk and i had to. My point in this video is to show that the rail will reduce the vibration and flexibility in that axis. Some vibrations in the printhead are also induced by the acrylic support that is not stiff. To improve even more i suggest replacing that acrylic piece with a carbon fiber one (that i will show in my next videos). Regards
Hopefully you cleaned the protecting gunk off the bearings first and added proper grease. If not, it'll wear prematurely and not run as smooth since the lubrication that is typically provided with those are only really meant for preventing corrosion.
Hi Greg,
I can let you know that the same printer with the same linear rail is still working today with no issues.
I have the mgn12 rail like the one you have in the video, but i can't get the M3x8 screws into the rail holes. Did you tap the holes? or did they originally come threaded? Mine are not threaded.
Greetings Androidzombie1
The rail does not have tapped holes.
They are normally drilled for M3 screws.
Maybe you got a different rail model or the manufacturer made wrong size holes :(
I guess you have to use a nut or tap them.
It's amazing firm and precise , i just forget the M3 nut but is a excelent solución.tnx.
Hola buenas,
Si fueras tan amable de indicarme las medidas para los ejes z,x,y y que tipo de guía lineal llevan si es la mgn12h o cual,seria para una tevo tarantula,
Gracias y fabuloso por los videos que subes
Hi, which kind of differences made after this mod? Is there a comparison photo we can show the improvements? P.s. you should use a nut before hotbed screws.
Hi Necati,
I don't have any specific picture to show you but the improvement is clear. Rails are much better than wheels.
You have much more stability and performance with these type of rails.
Regarding the nuts before the hotbed screws, i'm not sure what you mean but the way i assembled its not wrong ;)
I mean this. lh3.googleusercontent.com/M2IDJafpE99unOL6ZZRo7Y38nnb46KFGLJn4pmRZnaBIh6uaXiQOpUz-RO49UIxI_MZbGjbL5Ztu2A=w2160-h2880-rw-no
I used your videos when I first got my first 3d printer a couple of years ago. Thank you so much for these! I have a question about this upgrade though. When you add the rail, that raises the bed up slightly. Doing so adds a slight angle to the belt, meaning it no longer runs flat and perpendicular to the frame. Does this cause any errors in the prints or have you done something to compensate for this change in angle? I have read a few comments, I apologize if this has been asked before, but I didn't see it.
Hi Derek,
Yes, the belt raises a bit but you need to pass the belt (at the carriage) from the bottom up and not from the up side down.
It's not ideal to have the belt with an angle. The ideal is to have the belt parallel but if you will not print engineering parts then you will not notice that much.
@@ruiraptor Thank you. That was what was putting me off doing that upgrade. I may try that this weekend. Thanks again!
hi ruiraptor...it is very good idea to use rails for Y axis...good job...what is the rail lenght,350mm or 400mm? and what is the carriage mgn12H?
Hi, thanks.
I use a 400mm long rail and an MGN 12H carriage. The MGN12H is compatible with the carbon and aluminum tarantula y axis carriages.
i see,thank you for promot reply...i was worried about the conflict between rail and belt for mgn12h, but it is obvious that there is no conflict...what do you think about mgn9h? is it too small? also i am planning to use mgn9h for x and z axes by making some modifications to improve the precision
How many screws and T nuts would you use per rail? 400 mm.
We would recommend 1 screw every other 2 holes.
@@ruiraptor I should have asked the size. M3 x ?
Hi rui i've seen all your videos to improve my tarantula they are great. What's the size of the m3 screw? Do you recommend any store in Aliexpress to buy the rails?
Hi Domingo,
The screws for the rail are M3x10.
I bought mine on ebay...i never use Aliexpress
Thanks a lot for the answer Rui!!!!!
Hello. Your videos helped a lot on my tarantula thank you. I was wondering if you installed this upgrade on your x axis? One of my concentric nuts on my extruder plate wont get tight enough and lets the whole plate wobble. I ordered 2 rails and it looks like the belt might hit on the edge of the rail on the x. Just wondering if you attempted this yet and if you had any tips/info.
Greetings, thank you for your comment.
About the rail, I didn't install on my X axis. In my opinion, the X axis works great as is.
In your case you have the problem with the eccentric nut so you either replace the nut or install the rail...
When you install the rail, the biggest issue is that the hotend will be higher (rail is higher than the wheels) so it will be at the same lever as the aluminum profile. You need to make an adaptor so that the nozzle will be lower than the aluminum profile....
About the belt, i'm not sure but i think that it will be very close but will not touch the rail. If it does, you will need to print the X pulley plates with a modification. I think that some users already did this modification in our facebook group. You can ask there and also get some pictures of the installation.
Thank you for the tips
can put the link for me to buy this tab? what are her measurements? Thanks.
Rui, I have the rail but I guess I am not smart enough to do the math. How did you determine the spacing for the drilled holes? I tried measuring and drilling the holes but the spacing did not come out right so I had to print the Y Carriage so I could try again. Thanks
Hi Eliot,
I have an idea...download the datasheet and print the layout page where you have the holes distances. place that over the carriage and drill the holes.
+ruiraptor Thank you. Do you have a link that I can get exactly what you are talking about? I found a few but none of the ones I found will work. Great videos by the way and your website is pretty cool!
Hi Eliot,
Please send me an email (ruiraptor.channel@gmail.com) and i explain better.
Do you still use the smaller part, and the wheels, or are they replaced by the rail?
The wheels and the small H part are not needed with the rail.
@@ruiraptor Ok, thanks - I couldn't see underneath. So why did you drill the 4 holes in the small part?
Hi Tom,
Being an acrylic part, i decided to make the holes first on a part that, if something went wrong, it would not make a difference.
And with that, i used the H part as a jig to drill the final piece.
Hi, I have been looking into this for a while now. I know that I need a 400mm long rail, but I am not sure what MGN to choose? MGN 7 H, MGN 9 H or MGN 12 H? What is the difference?
Hi,
You will need an MGH12H because that one is compatible with the carbon and aluminum y axis carriages.
@@ruiraptor thank you. For the acrylic carrriage I need to drill holes like u show in the video and it will be compatible right?
If you have the correct 20x20 rail carriage then yes.
Hi! many thanks for your videos! I'm waiting for my kit, and I'm thinking about make some of the upgrades that you say because they look very interesting. . To install that rail you need to drill to install it? Do you know if the carbon fiber kit comes ready to be mounted on that rail? Thanks again!!
Greetings Antonio,
I also have a video of the Carbon fiber instalation...and yes, the Mackers.it carbon fiber kit is already prepared for rails and wheels. Check my other videos for more information :)
Where do I order those kinds of parts
Why is the rail better than the roller? I'm in the process of designing other printers too, and I'm just wondering which form of linear motion is the best.
Hi Emanuel,
Rails are better because they are more robust and stable. Easier to work with and a good one last longer than wheels.
Think like this...a high end printer uses rails or wheels?...rails for sure.
ruiraptor Thanks for the quick reply, very informative. I don't know about the z axis though. I'm building a corexy and putting linear rails seems like it's a lot harder to mount
Installing rails on the Z in the tarantula is not as easy. You need to modify some parts but is doable.
Rails is best option for linear motion, but i think it's not worth it on 3D printer.. there are almost no forces. It's more suitable for engraving or routing machines. If i build some 3D printer (or upgrading some) i would replace aluminium extrusion with something that are better conected in corners like welded steel square tubes
Gosh, i almost want to send some sockets. Its hard to watch you work with box ends! Great videos, so much work went in. A little editing would make them so much more useful. Thanks for sparing all the ridiculous ego centric chatter so many videos bore watchers with. Again thanks!
What size nuts and bolts did you use to secure the rail to the frame?
Hi,
I used the same M3 and M3 T-nuts used by the printer.
@@ruiraptor Ok, thanks for that.
Hi Rui,
i have make the same on anet a2 in my last video ;)
the quality of printing is better, it's amazing!
Hi,
I agree. It's a very good upgrade.
Thanks for the feedback ;)
Hmm I think going to a twin rail y axis would be ultimately the best option. More work in the mod but way bro stable. I think no matter what system you use, a single rail with all the overhang of a printer bed there will be issues..
Greetings PlaneCrazy, For the Z i recommend dual rail. For Y i dont see the need. The system is very stable with one rail. One thing i would change ( and i mention in the description ) is change the acrylic bed frame for an aluminium one.
@@ruiraptor I have single rail and it is not stable enough. I'm going to add second rail.
I'm in the middle of ordering aluminium parts do you know of a stl file that has the holes for this rail already in there so I can give the company the right dimensions?
Hi Robert,
I dont have but i can make it. Send me your email.
Regards
Ficou bem firme está guia linear, pois parece que tem um pequeno jogo nas laterais? Ou não? Muito bom o vídeo
Olá Ivan, a guia não ficou com nenhuma folga.
@@ruiraptor muito obrigado pela informação 😊👍
Good video, how is the rail called? I want to buy one
Hi, it's called a linear guide.
And how are they now?
Still working! They have maintenance ( the old grease is removed and replaced with new grease ) from time to time and that helps a lot in keeping the rails in perfect shape
@@ruiraptor Thank you very much for answering under such an old video)
Your videos are an amazing help for newbs, I haven't received mine yet but I ordered the bigger bed, will be te same rail length? 400mm or I will need a longer one? Thanks in advance !
Hello Hernán, Thank you for your kind comment.
Regarding the rail length, it's the same. Buy the 400mm and it will fit.
Regards
I have been following your videos and they are great. I totally recommend the brackets they have taken my Tevo From a so-so Printer to a very good printer. Can you give your slicer settings and your bed height settings.
Greetings Vbart, I'm using Cura. My bed height settings are manual (no auto-level) with 0 offset. I'm still tweeking my settings but i can share some info: * Print speed=40 ; * Top/Bottom thickness=0.6 ; * Fill density=50% ; * Temperature =212 ; * Bed temperature = 60 ; * Layer height =(varies) ; * Rectraction speed = 50 ; * Retraction distance = 8 ; initial layer thickness = 0.3.
Hello,
I see that the music was developed by longzijun, but would you happen to have the exact name of the sound track? :p
I don't have the same name...my name is Ruiraptor.
I have the credits of the sound track in the description
ruiraptor I meant: What is the name of the song?
You can find all the songs here:
longzijun.wordpress.com/music/
What size screws? M3? what length?
Hi Jason,
To secure the rail on the profile you will need some M3x10 screws.
intresting, that rail costs more than the entire thing, somehow i dont get it why brother at all when the base is wobbling on 4 spring loaded screws and the whole structure flexes
High quality rails is super expensive but he used chinese one it costs around 10-15 bucks and works you know wheels are better.
I was just about to post the same comment, those springs are waaaaaay too long and soft.
Please send me the link where to buy or description of the piece.
I think to do the same on my Tevo Tornado.
Thank you
Hi Ivan,
Here's an example where you can get them:
www.banggood.com/pt/MGN12H-250300500550mm-Linear-Rail-Guide-Linear-Sliding-Guide-Block-CNC-Tool-p-1156260.html?p=84280421195697201804&
ruiraptor
Thank you.
Is there any difference between the MGN12C and the MGN12H linear guide? Thanks
Hi G. Lewiss,
Please check the datasheet of the MGN rails.
motioncontrolsystems.hiwin.com/Asset/MG-Series-Catalog.pdf
Hi ruiraptor, Thanks for the link to the info. It seems that the letter H means it's about twice as much precise than C.
Hi G. Lewiss,
no problem ;)
If you raise the plate you have to move up the idler pulleys as well to avoid the angle you have in the belt now. Basic trigonometry... Your table now moves in in non-linear distances, depending on how close it is to one or the other pulley. Of course, this is irrelevant if you only print toys but if you want precision and accuracy then you have to consider this point and spend some time on correcting this error in your "improvement".
Hi, You are correct but the issue here is that i passed the belt from the top on the carriage. In my next video (carbon fiber upgrade) the belt is installed from the bottom side and that way the angle is much smaller.
What lenght rail that is?
Could you post a link to where you bought your rail or just say the specifications of it?
Hi Felix,
The rail is an MGN 12.
There is already a link posted here in the comments by another user.
Regards
ruiraptor ok thanks for the quick answer
when you are done with all improvement, how much cost the printer? Maybe buying a better one the first time instead of spending time and money on modifications will be the good choice? I say that since the goal is to print, not redoing a printer...
Hi Woody,
You are correct about that, but mind that you don't need ALL the upgrades. Some are important and some are nice to have. I made a video explaining that and what are (imo) the most important upgrades. You can watch it here:
th-cam.com/video/srYLCs-9tok/w-d-xo.html
I also made a video about the most important addons here: th-cam.com/video/73KTJmifeAE/w-d-xo.html
a "better one" will still have room to upgrade.
It is always more value when you can do it yourself.
is that a 12mm rail? and what size rails fit into the aluminium extrusions?
Hi Quentin L,
It's an MGN12 400mm long rail for the Y axis.
ruiraptor thanks
The Tarantula is good only for one thing. To have parts for another one. :) I had a tarantula and after a fail atempt of improving it, I made a new one. :) With rail or without it, this printer is just for parts.
I would have used the printer to print a centering jig as it could be used for future purposes as well and would be more accurate and faster when you have to tear down and replace.
how long of the rail 300mm or 400mm ?
Its a 400mm long rail.
Great upgrade! Are you planning to do the same with your Tevo Tornado?! :)
Hi,
To be honest i thought about it (Y axis only) but it's working so fine stock so i didn't go through it yet.
What's the background track? It's catchy as hell.
Greetings Dragontail, the background music was developed by longzijun.
+ruiraptor Thanks! and cheers with the Tarantula, I just ordered one.
Ruiraptor, nice Job, thanks for all the videos. I trying to make my tarantula better as well.... A Question, MGN15 (15mm wide) rail would not be better? In Aliexpress they sligthly more expensive.
Greetings Jozsef,
The MGN15 is higher ( which will make you loose Z height ) and wider. Being a wider and more robust carriage and rail, will last longer and maintain stability for a longer time since it can handle more load but if you get a true quality MGN12 combo you will not have any issues with it.
Regards
I'm going for the MGN 15 H, it's only 3mm height dif and if you go full aluminium or CF, you will not need 2 plates like in acrylic (what Tivo calls overlay to strengthen) so Z height loss should not be much of a worry. Right?
do you see what I mean Rui? I don't know if it is worth the extra cost tho. What is your opinion?
MGN15 is pointless in this sort of application. If I upgrade my CNC I will use MGN15 because I am milling aluminium as well, but for a 3D printer, even MGN9 is more than enough. As for the "lasting longer"... I don't believe that MGN15 lasts longer than MGN12 or MGN9 in a 3D printer. All three will last as long as you live if you don't have binding, but... one single rail is in my opinion not a good idea, so if I'd have this printer, the first thing I'd do is upgrading to dual rail.
Not having your belt parallel to the rail plane is going to induce geometric error and belt tension variations.
Greetings Miguel,
You can improve that by passing the belt (through the hole) under the plate instead of over it. That way the belt is "more parallel" to the rail plane. in fact, that way it's very close to being parallel. In this video i passed the belt over the plate because it's easier but i agree that if the belt is installed the other way it's better.
I later saw your video with carbon fiber parts where you fixed that. Great work.
Yes i did :)
Thank you.
Regards
Where did you buy this rail?
Hi,
I bought mine on ebay.
Can you send me link to this product? Today i bought my Tarantula and now I must collect other items for upgrade the printer.
P.S
Is this bed support good?
www.aliexpress.com/item/Funssor-TEVO-Tarantula-3D-Printer-aluminum-composit-MGN12H-CARRIAGE-VERSION-Y-Carriage-Stiff-Plate-heated-support/32847649569.html
Could you use this on the other axis
Greetings,
Yes, you can use an MGN12 rail in your X and Z axis, but for those axis is not that simple. For the X axis you will need a new hotend support to lower it (the rail will raise the hotend) and for the Z axis you will need longer Z motor support.
ruiraptor ok, do you think that it is worth it?
Hi, For the Y axis, the rail it's a must ! In fact, i recommend the Y rail together with the bed support the most important upgrades.
Where u bought the linear ??
Hi,
I bought the linear rail on ebay.
Can you provide a link for the rail?
Hi,
I bought mine on ebay. Just type in MGN12 and you will get many deals.
400mm?
those bed springs look way too springy...
The acrylic Y-carriage flexes before the spring moves on mine.
exactly there is no point to change to the rails before Alluminum Y carrier and dual Y system :)
Where did your order and what size?
Hi,
I bought my 400mm rail on ebay.
Is it possible to install this rail system on X axis too ?
Greetings,
Yes, it's possible to install the rail system in the X axis but you need some modifications.
One issue is that you will have your hotend higher than the horizontal metal profile. You need to make a modification in your X carriage so that the hotend maintains it's height even with the higher rail.
In my opinion, the Y and Z are the ones that require the rail modification. The X axis is not so important because it is not that heavy and therefore the original wheel system works ok.
Regards
Thank you!
One more question. It seems 300mm rail is enough for 200mm bed. Why did you choose 400mm ?
Greetings,
My Y axis homes outside the bed area (my choice) so i wanted a longer rail. Also, a 400mm rail is the same length as the Y profile so i get full movement if i need to.
Thank you for quick response! Ok, I will order 400mm rail for Y axis and 300mm for X axis to decrease weight .
belt is angled...otherwise seems like a neat upgrade
Hi, you are correct but it's angled because the belt loops over the Y carriage and later i corrected it by looping the belt under the Y carriage. You can see what i mean in the carbon fiber Y carriage video.
Thanks for share the improven!!! please share the link to downloa the fanduct file, thanks!
Greetings Gustavo, Links for the fanduct and other parts are available in my other video "TOP 5 MUST PRINT AFTER ASSEMBLY"
+ruiraptor gracias!!!!
link to purchase site for rail system?
I have bought the rail and t-nuts on ebay. Just search for "MGN12 12mm rail"
Available in Canada and USA here : www.electronicgeek.ca/products/mgn12h-single-linear-rails-400mm?variant=25850221379
In that link it seems that it sells a pack of x1 400mm rail and x3 carriages. You only need x1 400mm rail and x1 carriage.
Linear guides are precision parts. They must be delivered in a rigid box, wooden for example. The bubble wrap is useless.
Even a small effort during transport can cause 1/10 mm loss in linearity. Did you check with a 1/100 comparator for flatness defects
on the length after mounting ? Look on the machining forums how those who converts a conventional milling machine into a CNC machine
install this type of guidance. It's complex to adjust. Even if the displacement is improved, the principle of fixing and adjusting
the bed does not improve the accuracy of the machine.
Got mine today but forgot the M3 T-nuts :(
Instead of screws they could of used magnets on the Y axis heating bed. I plan on getting a Tevo Taruntula, but my current Robo3d R1 has magnets on the Y axis.
How do the magnets work?
where did you get it?
Hi,
I bought my rail on ebay.
Sure hope you fixed the belt issue you created... ya know, where now its no longer a flat plane and is angled? this can make super inaccurate prints....
Hi,
i commented this below. The issue was that i looped the belt over the Y carriage plate and should have looped under it. In my next video (carbon y carriage upgrade) you can see that.
I think that if wanted make it really sturdy you could've used 2 of those rails, but nice idea.
I saw the video again with more atention and I saw the nuts that you used.. Sorry! Thanks a lot!!
If you're going to show the test print, show the results of the print and not just the carriage moving back and forth. We all know it moves. We want to see the effect it has on print quality. Seems like there's a far smaller surface area holding the entire bed in place with this mod. The stability of the entire bed, especially when printing on the outside edges, seems like it would be compromised.
what about the printable bed? thing:2155311
Hi Hunter,
I haven't found the thing file you posted.
Anyway, there are some printable beds but in my opinion, they will not be as good as the carbon/aluminum ones.
A onde posso comprar este item ??
Hi Piter,
Here's an example where you can get them:
www.banggood.com/pt/MGN12H-250300500550mm-Linear-Rail-Guide-Linear-Sliding-Guide-Block-CNC-Tool-p-1156260.html?p=84280421195697201804&
ruiraptor. Qual é o tamanho exato para atevo tarantula?
how I can buy one of this?
Hi,
I bought mine on ebay. You can find many on sale there.
ok thanks
how many mm?
can you pls take my the dimensions of the rail..?
Hi Dimitris,
My rail is 400mm long.
i wanted to buy the tevo tarantula with the flex extruder and the auto level sensor. I have heared many youtubers say that it is very good but it has some problems with stability. I what you would recomed me to buy for fixing that.
Hi Dimitris,
The tarantula is in fact very good. Get the big heatbed but don't buy the auto level sensor. You can work perfectly without it or you can buy a better one for less.
Regarding the stability, just follow my tips and upgrade videos and you will be fine. If you need more help i can give you when you start to assemble the printer. There is also a big official tarantula facebook group that you can join and learn more about the printer.
facebook.com/groups/TEVO.3dprinter.owners/
i saw you video with the Carbon fiber upgrade, is it worth it?
Yes...especially the Y carriage.
it doesnt look right......its rocking back and forth..... during Y direction change....you can even see that in video....and i think that is not this part's fault.
You are correct. That is due to the flex of the stock acrylic carriage. And that's why i recommend the upgrade for the stiffer carriage in a following video. The carbon carriage is the best choice.
Seemsnlike your bed is bouncing all over the place lollll
Hi,
Exactly right...That's why I replaced the original acrylic carriage with a carbon fiber one (posted the upgrade video afterward).
Rui,
Although I already sent you the templates for the hole placement, I uploaded the .pdf and .svg files to Google Drive and they can be accessed with the following links..
Y Carriage Stiffener PDF
drive.google.com/file/d/0B1n5xMEyJw8FTEU4c0cxZnczSjgyX0hXUzhQNFp1UE9PQlZn/view?usp=sharing
Y Carriage Stiffener SVG
drive.google.com/file/d/0B1n5xMEyJw8FalBtbFYxSHdMWTNzYktqTU9BaDY0YkRDa2Nn/view?usp=sharing
Thanks Eliot :)
Man, you go to all the effort of installing a really nice rail, and then mount the bed with springs, pretty much entirely negating what you did :/
Hi dumle29,
Actually, the printer works great with the springs. They are compressed so not much negative effect there.
Although my setup is really stable and I don’t level the bed for a long time, i want to keep the ability to adjust the bed level since I don’t have any auto level sensor.
@@ruiraptor You should lower your Z limit switch and make those springs tight as much as possible.
Such uprade is pointless unless You are using two mgn cariages on one rail. With only one the bed shakes more than on orginal Y axis drive. It is better to use two separate v-slot extrusions like in CR-105s . Moreover, china cheap mgn rails and cariages are poor quality and the hiwin are to expensive for tinkering. Generally speaking. Tevo is poor 3d printer. The extrusions are low quality and there are better 3d printers in similar price range.
That bed is bouncing all over the place
Did you turn the eccentric nuts?
If you already turned the eccentric nuts, there is also a few tips you can try like flipping the acrylic plate up side down. More tips here: th-cam.com/video/IH6ctMkp0N8/w-d-xo.html
wo bekommt es
music class
2 minute just to unwrap??? Couldn't stick it out and had to quit. Learn to edit!!!!