this is one of the best, clearest, simplest and not boring videos i have come across to set up my printer, after the struggle of building due to the poor instructions i thought now what but after watching your vid was printing within 5mins! really good thanks again!!
David you are an absolute star, I had got as far as the beginning of your video and was completely stumped as to what to do next ( complete novice ) I am now confident I can progress and start my first print, thank you I owe you a debt of gratitude.
Very clear and concise video! Been using tarantula for past few months and this was really new way of doing offset correction for me! Thanks so much. Please add some shots on setting up the z endstop switch.
I can't tell you how glad I am to find this video. I got tired of all these guys trying to get me to "re-flash" the controller with "community firmware". Why? They claim the OEM firmware is buggy. Phooey. I'm going to follow your example and get started. Thank you.
Thanks for the nice comment. Yea I didn't reflash anything (I don't know how), so I just played around for awhile, and thought I'd share some tips as a video. Cheers,David
Ladies and Gentlemen! I found it for 185.99 USD www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_628790.html?wid=21&lkid=10781350 Cheers th-cam.com/video/e65vxUqghw4/w-d-xo.html
this helped alot. i was a little lost after you set the z axis adjustment using paper because the nozzle was not at home start point after that and i was worried if i hit return to home, it would cancel out all the adjustments to x,y,z i just did. so i ran it anyways and it all worked out
Great info there rubus! Hopefully I can use it when I FINALLY get my Tarantula running *next year*. Yes, I thought I'd print something in time for Xmas, But Tevo had other plans. My hot end heater didn't heat! I checked the heater with an independant 12v supply too.
Hi there, yea getting these printers to work is not an easy task, worked on mine for nearly 6months. If your hot end didn't heat, have you checked your sensor? If both the sensor and heater work, then it is probably your slicer software settings. let me know if works out.
The thermistor was ok, I tested it with a hair dryer and saw the temp start to rise on the screen. I found a replacement ceramic heater on Ebay, made in the UK the seller said. I bought two! Heh, I still had to wait till the new year's first week back at work to get it though. :¬D Printed my first test cube at 11.30 on Wednesday night! Hahaha! And I broke my printer today! X¬D I wanted to check and clean the nozzle so I wound it up to 190mm so I could see it, (I have a bad back ;¬) ) It was good and clean, so I wound it back in 'Z' to go to Z+50mm and was looking away as it moved down. A little bit of squealy noise was reminding me that I need to put some lube on there. Next second I heard a sound like breaking glass!! I looked round and the nozzle was right down on the bed! I could still hear the motor turning so I unplugged to power. Then I realized that the Z axis bracket had broken! I said, shit, and many other seriously offensive words regarding someone's mother etc etc!!! So I'm assuming it was just the lack of lubricant that cause the problem. Don't worry, I'll fix it, with 5mm aluminum this time!!!!! I have some here. But now I'll have to check the whole frame again for squareness.
Thanks man! You're a life saver. Thumbs up'd. Really liking the open source slic3r software instead of craftware stuff my brother was telling me to use.
I followed all instructions but my printer refuses to print. If i press print from sd and select the file it just does nothing the temperature is correct the x,y,z are correct i checked every corner with the paper but stil nothing.
Nice video. Thanks. I will follow your guidence for my first print tomorrow. One question: how do you change rolls during print if your starting one is finished? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi there, you can change rows by going into the menu and there will be an option that says "change filament" (or something like that. So you hit that button, and then the printer stops, next pull out the small remaining filament and insert your new filament and hit resume printing. Hopes this helps.
hello ,thnas man for the 255 fan spped , that i will test tomorrow. I see your extruder fan is different than mine , yours bigger and green , mine small and blac , did you upgrade ?, thanks.
Hi I just got my Tevo Tarantula a week and half ago,put it together leveled it did the paper thing,got the printer to print but its printing partial prints or just mangled prints I need serious help.
If it is mangled it could be due to many reasons; try changing the sli3er configuration, and make sure that the temperature you are using is the correct one for your print material. Also, check that your extruder is not clogged, try to extrude filament before the print.
We just built the printer, and are attempting to follow your instructions. Right now, the screen blanks and resets ever few seconds. Ideas? Windows 8 also recognizes it as an FT232R USB UART. We've attempted to install the FTDI drivers to no success.
Hi Richard, if the screen is blank it could be due the two cables for the screen are damaged, sometimes the wires are not clamped properly . I have had issues where those wires are faulty, so the screen didn't work, you can ask Tevo for replacements. Or, that the two wires are switched when building the printer. I have only tried printing with SD cards, haven't printed with USB yet.
I have the problem that when I put home all ax does not match the point 0,0,0, if not what comes out the same as you. I do what you do but it does not work for me. You could help me
hi. I already fix it updating the firmware, but it is a headache this printer. I have just begun to use another filament and it does not stick to the base and no longer heats the bed to the top.
how to get rid of the x=-11 y=-41 thingy? my nozzle it at the front left corner of the build plate at x=0 y=0 and now all my prints are offset from the center by 41/11mm. My printer just came in and I guess it's some new/upgraded version and this offset is no longer needed but it still exists in the firmware. it's very annoying.
Yea thats very annoying, I think you have to rebuild the firmware to remove the offsets. I am not too sure about your issue, when I made the video, the offsets didn't exist when I printed. It was only there when I homed in the nozzle. David
Im having issues with the bed, and extruder wobbling. It almost looks like the wheels are not snug, and I can just pull it out. Any idea how to fix it?
Hi Dante, if your wheels are not snug then it could be due to the eccentric nuts not being in the correct orientation. If they are in the right orientation, then when you slide the x and y axes across the aluminium bars they should be flush, and not wobble. (have a look at point 4 in github.com/hyu754/TEVO-PRINTER-FILES/blob/master/FILE/TipsAndHint.pdf) But I could be completely wrong, just play around and don't give up and you should solve the issue.
My printer bed goes to the far left when i set all axis home. it looked like your printer's nozzle goes to the close left end of the printer bed. is this a problem? also mine doesn't go over the bed like yours.
Hi there, yes I have had that problem during one of my builds. You can change it on the firmware by reversing the y-axis direction. But, I simply just changed the direction of the y-axis motor to the other side,. If you have a look at 1:56 into the video my y-axis motor is on the right, your one is probably on the left. Hope this helps. Your prints will come out inverted (compared with your 3d model) if it is not symmetrical.
Hi Eric, what temperature are you printing the PLA at? A good temperature to print PLA is 200-210 deg C. And also a fan can solve the problem of your prints caving in. Also the success of the first layer is very important to ensure a good print, are your first layers ok?
Hi, Great video! But when I press home all my nozzle is out of the printing bed. Also if I 0 the axis they are not in the left bottom corner. What should I do? Thank you!
Hi, had that problem too. Instead of changing the firmware, what i did was zero the axis (nozzle will be outside of bed). Then i manually changed the end-stop positions so that the firmware zero position matches up with reality. If it is not on the bottom left, then your y-axis motor might be oriented in the wrong way, the easiest way would be to change the wiring of the stepper.
That is an interesting question, I gotta say I currently don't know how to do that. The difficult part is to get the 3D geometry into a 2D image. If you have any ideas let me know.
Hi there, I am unfamiliar with Cura, but I don't think its compatible, but you can give it a try. If your printer starts too high, then it probably is caused by a mistake in your calibration. Make sure when you are changing the height of your bed 5:46 your z-axis is at 1mm (or 0.1 on the display). Or, the problem could lie within your cura setup.
I found the solution. 1st - In the display select Home all axis (the nozzle must go to left/bottom of the bed) 2nd - in the display again, find "store memory".
I don't have this store memory option. I am running stock firmwre and have the same issue of starting at x11 and y 41. When I follwed your guide my bed didn't go to zero like yours did. You said "luckily, muy bed goes to the correct home..." but you didn't say what to do if it doesn't. Can you help?
Could somebody help me or tell me where I can find some help, please? I assemble my Tevo Tarantula i3 but I couldn't print anything, the filament melts and get stuck in the nozzle and it gets plugged, the filament doesn't go throughout the nozzle it doesn't flow it creates like a little cylinder of melted plastic, so I have to disassemble the nozzle pull the filament out and cut the end (which is the cylinder of plastic) I thought it was because of the temperature so I increased it, but the same thing happend, I tried different things but with no success. Have this happened to someone else or somebody knows what can I do? Any Ideas? I really need help. :/
Hi Daniel, I actually have had a similar problem, where the nozzle is clogged. The reason for this was that the filament tube (white tube) is not inserted all the way into the extruder, have you made sure that tube is inserted as far as possible? If the white tube is not inserted all the way then the melted plastic will fill up the extruder.
its working fine now after i bought a new board off of ebay. had my father look at old board under microscope and he found about 7 pins not soldered. now im having a little trouble with slicer hanging my comp up and prints not sticking to my plate. lol if its not one thing its another but in all very happy with the tarantula so far!!! any tips would be awesome and appreciated!!
I have the Marlin software so when I hit home it goes to the middle. Then when I want to start to print, is it normal that it doesnt print immediately? It slides to the left then does nothing
Hi Serge, the firmware I have is the default. Yes, it is normal that if it doesn't print immediately it could be that; either the bed or the extruder is heating up. If it is heated and still doesn't print then there could be something wrong in your gcode software settings.
this is one of the best, clearest, simplest and not boring videos i have come across to set up my printer, after the struggle of building due to the poor instructions i thought now what but after watching your vid was printing within 5mins!
really good thanks again!!
Hey James glad the video helped, thanks for the nice comments :D, David
David you are an absolute star, I had got as far as the beginning of your video and was completely stumped as to what to do next ( complete novice ) I am now confident I can progress and start my first print, thank you I owe you a debt of gratitude.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment appreciate it. Good luck with your initial prints, hope it goes well :)
Cheers,David
Very clear and concise video! Been using tarantula for past few months and this was really new way of doing offset correction for me! Thanks so much. Please add some shots on setting up the z endstop switch.
Thank You, finally got it running properly with your help - Tevo should hire you.
It definitely should! I found Tevo instructions completely useless. I was about to throw the whole thing into the bin..
I can't tell you how glad I am to find this video. I got tired of all these guys trying to get me to "re-flash" the controller with "community firmware". Why? They claim the OEM firmware is buggy. Phooey. I'm going to follow your example and get started. Thank you.
Thanks for the nice comment. Yea I didn't reflash anything (I don't know how), so I just played around for awhile, and thought I'd share some tips as a video. Cheers,David
Thanks man, really helped me with my first print.
Thanks Mirazam, glad the video helped :D
Ladies and Gentlemen! I found it for 185.99 USD
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_628790.html?wid=21&lkid=10781350
Cheers
th-cam.com/video/e65vxUqghw4/w-d-xo.html
this helped alot. i was a little lost after you set the z axis adjustment using paper because the nozzle was not at home start point after that and i was worried if i hit return to home, it would cancel out all the adjustments to x,y,z i just did. so i ran it anyways and it all worked out
Hi Akijo, yea I played around for so long until I got that figured out too. Maybe its not the right way, but it works :P
Great info there rubus! Hopefully I can use it when I FINALLY get my Tarantula running *next year*.
Yes, I thought I'd print something in time for Xmas, But Tevo had other plans.
My hot end heater didn't heat! I checked the heater with an independant 12v supply too.
Hi there, yea getting these printers to work is not an easy task, worked on mine for nearly 6months. If your hot end didn't heat, have you checked your sensor? If both the sensor and heater work, then it is probably your slicer software settings. let me know if works out.
The thermistor was ok, I tested it with a hair dryer and saw the temp start to rise on the screen. I found a replacement ceramic heater on Ebay, made in the UK the seller said. I bought two! Heh, I still had to wait till the new year's first week back at work to get it though. :¬D
Printed my first test cube at 11.30 on Wednesday night!
Hahaha! And I broke my printer today! X¬D
I wanted to check and clean the nozzle so I wound it up to 190mm so I could see it, (I have a bad back ;¬) ) It was good and clean, so I wound it back in 'Z' to go to Z+50mm and was looking away as it moved down. A little bit of squealy noise was reminding me that I need to put some lube on there. Next second I heard a sound like breaking glass!! I looked round and the nozzle was right down on the bed! I could still hear the motor turning so I unplugged to power. Then I realized that the Z axis bracket had broken!
I said, shit, and many other seriously offensive words regarding someone's mother etc etc!!!
So I'm assuming it was just the lack of lubricant that cause the problem.
Don't worry, I'll fix it, with 5mm aluminum this time!!!!! I have some here. But now I'll have to check the whole frame again for squareness.
Thanks man! You're a life saver. Thumbs up'd. Really liking the open source slic3r software instead of craftware stuff my brother was telling me to use.
Thanks for the comment, yes I agree, open source is the future! David
I followed all instructions but my printer refuses to print. If i press print from sd and select the file it just does nothing the temperature is correct the x,y,z are correct i checked every corner with the paper but stil nothing.
Thank you ! Good video! Continue in that Right way
Thanks Etienne !
Nice video. Thanks.
I will follow your guidence for my first print tomorrow.
One question: how do you change rolls during print if your starting one is finished?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi there, you can change rows by going into the menu and there will be an option that says "change filament" (or something like that. So you hit that button, and then the printer stops, next pull out the small remaining filament and insert your new filament and hit resume printing. Hopes this helps.
hello ,thnas man for the 255 fan spped , that i will test tomorrow. I see your extruder fan is different than mine , yours bigger and green , mine small and blac , did you upgrade ?, thanks.
pLEASE HELP i DONT KNOW how much should PLA shuold be inserted into extruder? Is it till nozle or at extruder begining? thansk
Hi I just got my Tevo Tarantula a week and half ago,put it together leveled it did the paper thing,got the printer to print but its printing partial prints or just mangled prints I need serious help.
If it is mangled it could be due to many reasons; try changing the sli3er configuration, and make sure that the temperature you are using is the correct one for your print material. Also, check that your extruder is not clogged, try to extrude filament before the print.
We just built the printer, and are attempting to follow your instructions. Right now, the screen blanks and resets ever few seconds. Ideas?
Windows 8 also recognizes it as an FT232R USB UART. We've attempted to install the FTDI drivers to no success.
Hi Richard, if the screen is blank it could be due the two cables for the screen are damaged, sometimes the wires are not clamped properly . I have had issues where those wires are faulty, so the screen didn't work, you can ask Tevo for replacements. Or, that the two wires are switched when building the printer.
I have only tried printing with SD cards, haven't printed with USB yet.
I have the problem that when I put home all ax does not match the point 0,0,0, if not what comes out the same as you. I do what you do but it does not work for me. You could help me
Hi there Edmundo. I see, have you tried the following? prepare-> move axis-> move x-> turn to 0, and the same for y-axis?
hi. I already fix it updating the firmware, but it is a headache this printer. I have just begun to use another filament and it does not stick to the base and no longer heats the bed to the top.
Awesome, thanks!!
how to get rid of the x=-11 y=-41 thingy? my nozzle it at the front left corner of the build plate at x=0 y=0 and now all my prints are offset from the center by 41/11mm. My printer just came in and I guess it's some new/upgraded version and this offset is no longer needed but it still exists in the firmware. it's very annoying.
Yea thats very annoying, I think you have to rebuild the firmware to remove the offsets. I am not too sure about your issue, when I made the video, the offsets didn't exist when I printed. It was only there when I homed in the nozzle. David
Im having issues with the bed, and extruder wobbling. It almost looks like the wheels are not snug, and I can just pull it out. Any idea how to fix it?
Hi Dante, if your wheels are not snug then it could be due to the eccentric nuts not being in the correct orientation. If they are in the right orientation, then when you slide the x and y axes across the aluminium bars they should be flush, and not wobble. (have a look at point 4 in github.com/hyu754/TEVO-PRINTER-FILES/blob/master/FILE/TipsAndHint.pdf)
But I could be completely wrong, just play around and don't give up and you should solve the issue.
Thank you...
My printer bed goes to the far left when i set all axis home. it looked like your printer's nozzle goes to the close left end of the printer bed. is this a problem? also mine doesn't go over the bed like yours.
Hi there, yes I have had that problem during one of my builds. You can change it on the firmware by reversing the y-axis direction. But, I simply just changed the direction of the y-axis motor to the other side,. If you have a look at 1:56 into the video my y-axis motor is on the right, your one is probably on the left. Hope this helps. Your prints will come out inverted (compared with your 3d model) if it is not symmetrical.
Hi I'm having problems with the prints coming out bad but I followed everything I had to do. Help plz
Hi Eric, can you tell me what is wrong with the prints, like is it warped or no sticking to the bed?
and are you using abs or pla?
rubusnz pla and it always comes out messed up but I think nozzle is too hot
rubusnz sort of caves in
Hi Eric, what temperature are you printing the PLA at? A good temperature to print PLA is 200-210 deg C. And also a fan can solve the problem of your prints caving in. Also the success of the first layer is very important to ensure a good print, are your first layers ok?
Hi, Great video! But when I press home all my nozzle is out of the printing bed. Also if I 0 the axis they are not in the left bottom corner. What should I do? Thank you!
Hi, had that problem too. Instead of changing the firmware, what i did was zero the axis (nozzle will be outside of bed). Then i manually changed the end-stop positions so that the firmware zero position matches up with reality. If it is not on the bottom left, then your y-axis motor might be oriented in the wrong way, the easiest way would be to change the wiring of the stepper.
check out this one: th-cam.com/video/-iubywKkNEE/w-d-xo.html
The motor is installed correctly. I will just move the end stop so that the nozzle will be in the left corner. Thank you! :)
Hi nice video..
I have one question.
How to print the photos in 3d like my own photo in 3d image..
Pls make a video for tat .I want to know
That is an interesting question, I gotta say I currently don't know how to do that. The difficult part is to get the 3D geometry into a 2D image. If you have any ideas let me know.
Do these setup variables stay in place or does one have to go thru them everytime the printer is started?
Calibration can be done once in a while. But the software settings will stay the same.
Can you load that config into Cura? Also my printer starts too high from the bed, what have I done wrong?
Hi there, I am unfamiliar with Cura, but I don't think its compatible, but you can give it a try. If your printer starts too high, then it probably is caused by a mistake in your calibration. Make sure when you are changing the height of your bed 5:46 your z-axis is at 1mm (or 0.1 on the display). Or, the problem could lie within your cura setup.
Hello, my objects cannot start printing on the bed center. where adjust this. Thanks
Silvio Mascarenhas same issue here :(
I found the solution.
1st - In the display select Home all axis (the nozzle must go to left/bottom of the bed)
2nd - in the display again, find "store memory".
I don't have this store memory option. I am running stock firmwre and have the same issue of starting at x11 and y 41. When I follwed your guide my bed didn't go to zero like yours did. You said "luckily, muy bed goes to the correct home..." but you didn't say what to do if it doesn't. Can you help?
why wont it let me download slic3r??
Could somebody help me or tell me where I can find some help, please?
I assemble my Tevo Tarantula i3 but I couldn't print anything, the filament melts and get stuck in the nozzle and it gets plugged, the filament doesn't go throughout the nozzle it doesn't flow it creates like a little cylinder of melted plastic, so I have to disassemble the nozzle pull the filament out and cut the end (which is the cylinder of plastic) I thought it was because of the temperature so I increased it, but the same thing happend, I tried different things but with no success.
Have this happened to someone else or somebody knows what can I do? Any Ideas? I really need help. :/
Hi Daniel, I actually have had a similar problem, where the nozzle is clogged. The reason for this was that the filament tube (white tube) is not inserted all the way into the extruder, have you made sure that tube is inserted as far as possible? If the white tube is not inserted all the way then the melted plastic will fill up the extruder.
thanks for helping me
No problem Celyn, thanks for watching :D
is there anyway i could get in touch with you and talk to you over skype or anything because i have some questions about my printer
Hi, send me an email at rubusnz@gmail.com with some details regarding your issue, and I will try to help.
THANK YOUUUUUUUUUUUUU
why is my y axis not moving
Hi stillcringe, can you provide more details? Have you checked your connections?
its working fine now after i bought a new board off of ebay. had my father look at old board under microscope and he found about 7 pins not soldered. now im having a little trouble with slicer hanging my comp up and prints not sticking to my plate. lol if its not one thing its another but in all very happy with the tarantula so far!!! any tips would be awesome and appreciated!!
i can't find the config file
Hello, the config I used in the video is here : github.com/hyu754/TEVO-PRINTER-FILES/tree/master/Config
I have the Marlin software so when I hit home it goes to the middle. Then when I want to start to print, is it normal that it doesnt print immediately? It slides to the left then does nothing
Hi Serge, the firmware I have is the default. Yes, it is normal that if it doesn't print immediately it could be that; either the bed or the extruder is heating up. If it is heated and still doesn't print then there could be something wrong in your gcode software settings.