How to get the Perfect First Layer - 3DP101
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 เม.ย. 2024
- The first layer of your 3D Print is its foundation - and can spell success or disaster!
In this 3D Printing 101 we go through the slicer settings you can employ to get the best first layer possible on your 3D Printer.
This video is proudly supported by Simplify3D. Visit www.simplify3d.com/ to learn more.
Link to Square and Circle by cbruner - www.thingiverse.com/thing:38096
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You just blew my mind. Watching your video and see my circle square come up.
When you do these vids you need to make one for cura and prusa slicer
yes!
What about flashprint??? Don't forget us losers. Flashforge Guider 2 is a slicer snob.
I have recently started to 3D print. All these Angus' videos have helped me much. My start has gone well, and I think Angus' videos are part of that... or, am I a natural born 3D maker?... Honestly, I think all these videos done by Angus helped me to get started... He is a perfect first layer.
I was pulling my hair out for days and editing the Z-offset to -1.2 to squish the material into the base just to make it stick. I've leveled the board so many times I can do it in my sleep now. I just changed the "initial layer height" in Cura and its printing an absolute dream now - Thanks so much for this video. I dont usually sub but as an absolute beginner of 3d printing wasting hours not even getting the base to stick, you've made my life complete. Thanks again.
I use rafts for everything, I have found it is excellent for setting up a good surface, good first layer, and easy removal without damaging the print. It also is a great way of warning me ahead of time if there is a problem with the extrusion. I always stay for the raft construction before walking away.
I tried so many times to print some small parts (50 of them, clips for a dnd wall/floor model) without raft but i finally gave up. The first 30 of them might have been good on the surface, then ONE of them fucks up and the whole print is fucked. I went for printing such stuff with a raft and removing it plus working with a wood buring tool to smooth out the bottom surface afterwards. This takes time but at least i dont have to fear about my first layer.
after 5 years then I wanted to say I love the blue shirt!
Very informative video! I pretty much learned all this stuff from guessing and trial-and-error, and it's nice to see everything in one concise video.
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This is great. I remember when I first started, the first layer was one of the things that was hardest for to me to get my head around. So I think this will help people a lot.
This video saved my constructing and printing thin, detailed, stencils. Basically, "slow it down from ludicrous speed to excruciating." I went down to 20% speed. First-level lines went down perfectly on my Ender 3. I print .5 mm thick and all turns out! Thanks for the wise input as to the importance of the first layer.
You really saved me with those settings, especially raft setting, was about to give up on 3d printing because of first layer problem. Thank you so much.
Thank you very much for this video. Just started with 3d printing. After adjusting settings as recommended and using a raft prints are coming out near perfection. Thank you again
I'm so grateful or your 101 series, it's been so helpful in learning the ins and outs of printing! I now am understanding what my tweaks will be doing instead of just doing them because the troubleshooting guide told me I should! haha Thanks!
Thanks a bunch. Everything is working like a charm. I had Simplify3d all messed up. Your tips straightened everything out. I can even print screw holes on the Z axis and they come out perfect.
Thanks again.
I greatly appreciate these 3-D how to videos! I love playing with my sons 3-D printer but I have had so many problems and it is so frustrating. I'm doing better! Thanks so very much!
Very interesting and educational ! Felicitation for your sponsor they make a good choice in working with you !
I have to say that 90% of the time, it's the first layer that's the problem.
me to.
From short period experience, I can confirm. If the first layer doesn't stick well, all sorts of problems happen.
Bingo. Use a metal gauge for precision. I use a distance of 0.06mm and then observe the brim print. Adjust the knobs 1/4 turns at a time till the nozzle literally smears the lines.
When I first started 3D printing I tried a few different softwares including all the free ones. After struggling to understand most of the different ways of changing the setting I came across simplified 3D and fell in love with it. I've been using it now for almost a year-and-a-half and couldn't imagine using anything else. I was able to take a second bigger used printer and get it working within a few minutes because I understood by simplified 3D works after using it for over a year
This was great Angus. Already seeing improved results. Would love a more advanced video going into some of the other settings you mentioned. Thanks
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. I spent an entire week troubleshooting my BL Touch not realizing the issue was actually just my first layer!!! Thank you so much. Problem was solved in literally 2 minutes... but autolevel is DEFINITELY setup correctly now so woo! I can finally print again!
I love your channel! I have watched many of your " shows" and have a vague memory of seeing an analysis of the 5 square calibration pattern. Can you please point me in that direction. Many THANKS for all the wisdom that you impart!
I always go for a flat mashed layer when bed leveling and so far has worked great for me
Thank you very very much! This works very good on the MP Select Maker V2! You are the BEAST!
Thank you so much, its the simple thing that matters. Its realy the first layer that matters. I had the problem that after the 10th layer the model come up.
I found the parameter in EasyPrint to heat the first layer more and slow down only the first layer. Now its nearly perfect.
I use different type of filament and wanted to blame it .
Thanks for the practical hints !
Thanks Angus. I'm new to Simplify3D and this tutorial helped a lot.
Awesome and informative. Thanks! Injust got my tiko 3d and its been rather taxing due to the limited software currently
This helps so much! I've been trying to print a hilt for a costume sword, but each time I've tried it, the first layer always becomes screwed up (mostly due to it's rough design). Hopefully I'll see improvements using these tips.
In around 95% of my prints so far, the first layer has been what caused me to restart the print. On the print I did today, I restarted after the first layer about 8 times, and once I got a good first layer, it worked flawlessly for the rest of the print.
first time 3d printer user. this really helped alot. many thanks.
Pure gold! Thanks so much. This video is tight. Lot of info! Thanks!
As always, thanks! Can you explain how to tweak the raft to become easier to remove?
An advanced video would be awesome, as well as some tips for the other common slicers! Thanks Angus!
You should demonstrate this kind of video's with cura or slic3r because that's what most people use. All the settings you mentioned are also available on cura and probably also slic3r.
Sponsored video.
Yeah, saw that part after my comment :P
I would agree that another video on using Cura or slic3r would be very useful. It would not have to be as long as this one, just an extension to this video highlighting the differences in setup for skirts, rims/brims and rafts. Or even just modifying the first layer print.
- Eddy
Can you explain how you get to those settings in cura because for a mod size print I have to restart it like 5 times to get it to work
i would agree i use cura and want to switch to simpifly 3d but dontnhave the money
thanks.
and Yes. I Would love to get in more detail
perfect first layers are important, and *beautiful* :)
Nice work Angus. In part 2 of my ABS video I go into how to use brims to get it to stick as well.
Hey I would like to first say that your for your wonderful videos you have saved me so much time! So thank you! I can't thank you enough! Cheers bro!
Thanks man. Great job
Thanks a million for this video, with your numbers I could finally fix my Ender 3 setup in PrusaSlicer.
Thanks for your series, Angus. Ive watched, and learned from several.
I started with the Printrbot Simple 1405 Wood Kit, and recently purchased a Creality CR-10S. I have always used Slic3r and Repetier Host ( you know, free is good 🙂 - I donated to Repetier of course ).
Cura 3 and 4 are horrendously slow ( as if I had a dial up modem to AOL ), on my iMac OS X El Capitan 10.12.6.
I am wondering whether Simplify3D is worth the 50% cost of my new printer? The canned test_dog print that came with the printer, when printed from the memory card was absolutely beautiful! It is printed with rafts. I am considering decoding the GCode for the raft settings, and configuring Slic3r to do the same.
However, my time is worth something, too. Hence my question about the value of Simplify3D.
Thank you and keep making these Muse videos! Thanks again.
Thank you so much for all these videos! I'm a complete n00b to all of this and of all the videos I've watched, yours are the most helpful I've found :-) Cheers!
I purchased my copy of Simpify3D yesterday, based on your reviews! BTW: I noticed your testimonial on their home page. As always, thank you for the outstanding content you provide and keep up the great work!
This helped me a lot! Thank you!
love the way you get info across, do you have a vid showing first layer adhesion on various bed surfaces standard magnetic surface, glass, pei and other types of surfaces? subbed! thanks for sharing :)
Thanks Mr Muse. Outstanding. ♥
That is an amazing video
Thank you Angus
Hey I would really appreciate an advanced version into the different setting this content is so useful🙌🏾🙌🏾👍🏾
This video has answered my most important first -layer questions! Thanks!
Thank You for this video!!
Fantastic video !! Thank you !
Level the bed the best you can, print on glass, clean it with alcohol before printing, set first layer height on 0.1 to 0.15 mm. Flow 100%, speed 50 to 75 % for first layer. No cooling. No raft, brim or skirt. Works perfect for me on my Anet A8, of course depending on the shape of the STL file. I use Cura and sometimes Slic3r. both work good and for free :) for PLA I set the temp on 200°C (392 F) , and the bed on 55°C (131 F).
Great tips, thanks dude
You are good . Thanks my print is sooooo good now
very useful. setting i didn't know what they did in s3d. thank you
Great tips, Thanks mate
Great video. Ditto on an advanced video on rafts. Especially how to make them as easy to remove as possible while providing the needed support. Also the settings for the support layers contacting the overhangs so they are easy to remove as well.
S3D is pricey but I am very happy with it and feel it is well worth the price. I started with S3D then tried to use Cura and boy is S3D much easier to use. My wish would be that I could use it on multiple PCs but only one instance at any time as I design on multiple PCs.
Yes! More advance video please. 👍
Super helpful. My first layers are smearing / low extrusion. I suspect I have a leveling issue (too close overall) but this was done w/ sensor (Anet ET4) - any suggestions?
Great advice. I did eventually come up with these as well.
I was wondering how often you use glue or adhesive however.
My Ender 3 V2 reaches a maximum bed temperature of 110 degrees Celsius and the ABS I use warps easily at any temperature below that.
I tend to use a brim and a decent layer of glue in order for my first layer to stick but getting the glue off is really annoying as my bed is the standard glass.
Should I invest in a different bed material or is there a decent recommended glue that works well and can be easily cleaned afterwards?
Ender 3. Cura. These suggestions resolved my issues. Thanks!
Hello awesome video it helped me alot
I only have 1?
In s3d what does your start script look like
Because in mine i can see it sets z height to 0.2 at the beginning what about your script
Hello Angus, excellent video on how to set up your first layer in simplify3D. Is it possible to the same type of video using Cura or Slicer? Thanks! Keep the content coming!!
Angus, I would love to see a video on the advanced use of Simplify3D. Thanks.
When my bed was not levelled properly (even bent a little) I had to use all these tricks and more to get my print to stick to the bed. I replaced it, now it's perfectly level ... everything just works now regardless of any other settings.
Would love a advanced version, keep up the good work (y)
Outstanding video :-) I'm using (for the first time) 0.8mm nozzle. Which S3D settings for the first layer do you advise me ?
your videos are super helpful and compact. thank's for not making these into 20 minute rambles!
simple trick to smooth the bottom, after printing on a raft: use a flattening iron and baking paper. crank the iron to full power, and keep gently passing it over the bottom, untill you see the paper smoothly sticking to it. ..and dont burn your fingers, like i did. ;)
Awesome video Angus.
I've fine tuned my printer and have great adhesion (sometimes too good), but I'd still love to hear your advanced tips/tricks on getting the first layer pristine :)
thanks Angus - zero cooling on the first layer has pretty much fixed my problem
Excellent. More! Best wishes.
I'm glad I saw this video long before I started printing. You've saved me a lot of filement and time in the last weeks. Was it you that suggested putting maple syrup on the print bed in a video? I heard it somewhere but I can't remember where.
I recently tried it and have had excellent first layer success even without a raft and even when I get lazy in the bed levelling.
It's pretty cool you can upgrade PTC heaters for enclosed housings to prevent large parts from warping
I'm using Cura and I was directed to this video for best settings for the first layer. Leaving from here still clueless as to how to adjust my settings in Cura since they don't much match with the commercial one.
I use a mirror tile super cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, I always get really good first layer. Sometimes the prints stick too well. I highly recommend. 😊
Hi, I'm new to printing and a big fan of your channel and have learned a lot from watching. I have a Da Vinci Pro and currently using their slicer (for now, just downloaded a free version of Cura) and I'm finding that my first and top layer lines are looking very stringy, they almost seem to be too far apart from each other, almost separating, and the bottom layers are uneven (not totally flat). What can you suggest I do to improve my prints. Thanks again, I look forward to more of your video tutorials.
First layer height < 100% is new to me... I always thought it was supposed to be higher to allow some tolerance. Will give it a try.
Just what i need.. Keep them coming.. Hey Angus where can i get the files for your cube test models please.
Great video as always :) can I ask you what do you think of the ULTIMAKER 3? Is it worth the money?
I know I'm pretty late to the party, but i would love to see an advanced tutorial on mastering the perfect first layer. Your videos are amazing and you're one of the very few people who go into such depth with slicing software settings on youtube. i also noticed that my printer will do a pecking motion from time to time on prints that have warped bottom layers. If one corner is warped even in the slightest way it will do this pecking motion around the entire print, even the level sides. please help and please keep it up. My friends and i love your videos and for the most part learned just about everything we know from you and from experimenting of course.
Hello, very good this video, thank you, I have a little problem that I wonder if you have some trick to solve.
The RAFT does not come out whole, it is always very dificel to separate.
Perfect video
thank u sooo much big help
could yo do a video on how to achieve the best dimension accuracy? Which slicer settings could be tweaked to get accurate hole diameters?
Is increasing first layer height and width equivalent to increasing extrusion multiplier? it would be nice to be able to just play with multiplier for first layer without going through trouble of creating 2 different jobs..
Hi Angus, love your videos mate. I've learned lots from you already. Wondering if you could help me? I just got a new Anycubic Delta plus. it works great. However, My builds are sticking to the build plate way too strong and I can't get the prints off without damaging them. My settings are 50 degrees for the heatbed and 200 degrees for the hot end and im using PLA. Most of the tutorial talk about problems with prints not sticking, but in my case, I'm having the opposite problem. Would be great if you can help. Cheers!
Pretty sure your fixes will fix most of my problems with first layer. What about extrusion?
i want to add a glass bed ontop of my metal one so i wonty need to use tape. my question is is there some kind of spacer i can get that has a 3mm in it so the nozzel wont crash through the glass? i have a anet a3 and am new to 3d printing. please let me know thanks.
Yes please thank you!!
Wish I saw this when I had trouble getting started. Can you also make a small talk on leveling or post a link? These were the two things that intimidated me badly back then.
Great info!
How would I set the first layer height in Ultimaker Cura? The setting that I found adjusts how tall the actual layer itself is, not how high off of the print bed the first layer starts printing.
Regarding rafts, I have played with different seperation heights for hi quality prints (0.1mm layer height) but have trouble either separating the raft without damage to the bottom or the bottom having a slight spaghetti looking deformity as if too far from the raft. Any suggestions?
My printer is a hybrid of manual and auto calibration probes the distance itself then displays them for you to turn the screws
So I have been using Cura 3.04 as a slicer for my 3d models.... and when I try to print them on my cr-10 I have noticed that the machine retracts the fillament at the beginning of the print after the nozzle has already moved so about the first 20 seconds of printing or so have no fillament coming out of the nozzle. Do you have any ideas on why this is happening and how I can fix It?
Best video I've seen
nice. i have had the anet a8 for like a week and havent printed anything yet because cura is giving me a error that says could not probe opengl needs 2.0 or higher
As usual great video angus but let me add my thoughts on Simplify3d and first layer height. If first layer height is set to 100% and your print height is set to .2mm then the print head will print from a height of ..0.2mm above the surface. If you used card stock that is .1mm thick to level the bed then your print head will .3mm above the bed when printing the first layer! As you can see that is quite a difference! Hence you must use z height compensation OR a first layer height much less than 100% to ensure good first layer adhesion.
This is my observation and the way I determine first layer height I hope it makes sense.
My actual initial layer is always 0.1 mm higher than what I have set in Cura's "Initial Layer Height". This makes sense because I level my bed with a 0.1 mm piece of paper. However, the lines of filament on the initial layer do not adhere to each other, I'm guessing it's because the amount of filament being extruded is what would be needed for 0.2 mm initial layer when the actual gap between the nozzle and bed is 0.3 mm (the initial layer height plus the bed leveling gap). I'm using Cura 3.1.0 with my Creality CR-10S. How do I compensate for the 0.1 mm "paper" gap? Thanks in advance.
Hey, Maker's Muse. Love your videos. Would you please consider making a review on the New Matter Mod T? I have purchased one and I would like to hear your thoughts on it and some possible tips on how to make the prints better.
Are you aware the company went bankrupt last year? Not much left to review!
I just Love Seeing Printbite in this Video.