Thanks! Quick, informative & accurate. I literally NEVER thought to warm up in ‘normal’ weather. (Shake like a polaroid but never thought of that. Have placed in front of heat vent, have used hand-warmers in a thermos lunch-bag when moving, but I’ve also had a can rupture from too-hot water. Any & all tips appreciated! Thank you!
This really helps! I get Gunpla as christmas gifts sometimes and now I don't have to wait till May of next year for the weather to finally get warm and dry enough! Thanks 👍
Awesome tip Bob - thanks for sharing! I'll definitely be using your technique. I'm 40 -50 miles north of Philadelphia and although it's been a mild winter - we have gotten some (and will get more) pretty cold days. Good info to put out there! Best, John
Thank you for the video! I made the mistake of spray painting in the winter last year and got really patchy/splattery results. I'm glad I found this video to prepare for my next project! Happy Holidays!
You are so welcome! And thanks for the comment. Let me know how your winter paint project comes out! Glad to know you aren't letting old man winter stop _your_ creativity!
@@PKWModelwerx It was Warhammer miniature, I was varnishing it, it come out fine, no negative effects. I live in an apartment building and usually working with spray paints on my unglazed balcony. But from November to April, there is almost always below zero outside. So, like you advised, I warmed up the can of varnish and the model, and also heated up the room that adjoining the balcony. The process of varnishing was quick, about 30 seconds, to prevent the model and varnish from getting too cold.
Pittsburgh has had a very mild winter, so far. Nothing has lasted more than a day or so but lows below 20 several times. At least all that cold knocks the humidity out of the air for painting purposes! Thanks for watching!
thank you ! it worked like a charm, i only has one question does this method also work for a spray can of matte finisher by krylon? or how would you go about spraying finisher in the cold? thanks again !
Glad you had success. I think these principles apply regardless of the type of paint - oil based, water based, etc. So I think it should work with the Krylon product. It would not surprise me if you read the label to find that the Krylon product was an oil-based matte lacquer, not unlike Montana Black graffiti paint. Let me know how it turns out for you. And thanks for the feedback.
Sorry just seeing your question. Keeping the target warm during the drying process not only speeds drying but i think might be a necessity. So covering would be some help. But i wouldconsider using some gentle heat source inside the enclosure. Reptile heating pad or similar? Maybe an incandescent light bulb? Be safe whatever you set up and good luck.
thank you for the tips! I'm trying to spray a a roof rack cargo basket. I will need to flip it to spray the backside of it for each coat. How would you go about doing this in the cold? would you bring it in (to a warmer area - which I have access to) after painting each side every time to dry for 10-15 mins before painting the other side? What would be a good way to move it from cold (outside) to warm (inside) when a fresh coat has just been put on?
I have a dilemma here. I'm doing some body work on my car and it needs some bondo work and some paint. I was thinking of just doing the paint for now since I'll have to sit there with a heat gun to have the bondo stuff cure. I wouldn't really mind except I can't find a heat gun atm. But it's going to be around 40F today. Only 32F atm still early but should I be able to paint ok? I'm not able to heat up the target since it's my car and no heat gun. Just some small rust spots I sanded down to metal. Gotta self etch prime, paint then clear coat. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!
Just seeing this. Sorry for the delay. How about the wife's hair dryer? Maybe get the area into the sun for some time to warm it further? That temperature range is only around 20 degrees too low so you might be OK. But I'd bet you would be more comfortable if you could warm the target. If you have an attached garage I wager the temperature in there will be warmer so you could park the car in there to warm it a little? Maybe tape a hand warmer to the surface or an electric heating pad? Sorry I can't be more help. Good luck!
Good idea! Or a heating pad or boot warmers or something. That might warm the target as well. And if you have no garage you could leave your painted model in a closed box with a heating pad until it dries a bit. Good thinking @dwight kerley! Thanks for watching! I'm thinking about designing and building my own paint drying booth - ala Doctor Dry Booth in Micromark but for a fraction of the cost. Sound interesting? Of course that's after I finish my spray booth.
@@PKWModelwerx my idea for a spray booth is take a box fan tape a filter to the back of it and take a box and open the bottom of it an tape it to the box
Dwight Kerley I have to vent mine outside. And your plan puts fan motor brushes in an explosive air stream (unless I exclusively airbrush acrylics, which I don’t). I did a video on explosion risk. But I admire your ingenuity. Spray can propellants are highly explosive so be extra careful with those.
What would you say is the coldest weather you can paint in? I live in Canada, right now where I live it can get as low as -10 Celsius in the winter but most of the time it is 0 to -5. Would that be too cold?
Very difficult to answer. I think if the target is small, wind is low, and everything is warmed up well, you can paint at those temperatures. But at some temperature the paint will get too cold traveling between the can and the target. I would run an experiment before painting something you care about. Good luck and let me know how it works!
Yes I paint small objects and the logistics get tougher as you paint bigger objects. Unfortunately the realities of paint chemistry don't change. A warm target will cool down during a long painting session and warm paint will also cool. It starts to make more sense to build an enclosure for larger projects I think. But I've never had to tackle those challenges. Thanks for the thought-provoking comment. What are you painting?
Maybe this is crazy talk but how about running a low fire in the smoker to keep the outside warm? Of course that assumes you’re not painting the interior and can effectively paint all around without moving or flipping it over. Good luck. That’s definitely a challenge.
How about using a clear coat spray paint in the cold? Should I warm it up as well? It’s about 10°C here and I have already spray painted. Not sure about a clear coat though, I don’t want to ruin my work.
Just seeing this. Assuming your base coat has fully-cured I don't see how a clear coat will damage it. That's damn cold though. I've never worked below 20. If you could wait until it was closer to 32, I would do so. I fear even warm paint or lacquer will get cold on the way to the target with it that cold. Do you have anything you can run a test with?
@@PKWModelwerx This is my current dilemma! Living in an apartment in Northern Ontario, but trying to refinish a couple guitars. Super cold outside but can't get away from the fumes in the apartment. Helpful video! Thanks for doing what you do.
That's a tough one. I'm assuming you are painting small objects, like plastic models. The longer you can leave it outside, in a temperature controlled environment, the better. Even 10 minutes in a carboard box you have warmed up in the house will help and let the initial gassing out happen outside. Then, you might try moving it into a bathroom with the vent fan running, and close the door. I think this all depends upon the sensitivity of those you live with to the smell. I did a video on explosion proof spray booths so I have some idea of the dangers and I would say the explosion risk of spray paint gassing out, especially after a few moments outside, is close to zero. Hence, I think the risk of a bathroom fan causing an explosion in that situation is approaching zero. You could also consider building a drying booth using cardboard or plastic sheeting and a space heater running some warm air through the chamber. How about a reptile rock in the box to keep it warm? I'm liking the reptile rock as it won't blow any dust onto your paint job. Time to get creative!
Just seeing this question. Sorry for the delay. Montana Black is good lacquer based paint. But lacquer has some peculiarities so what is best really depends on a lot of variables. Montana Black does have an incredible range of colors, which is a strong point for me. Note that Montana Gold is acrylic and I believe water based.
@@danwitavan5146 I can't tell whether ACME is oil or water based. My guess is you would not want to use an oil based spray paint on top of a water based and uncured paint, and vice versa. But Montana makes both oil and water based paints. Again, I'd do a quick experiment. But once either has dried, you should be able to apply the other on top. Good luck!
If it cures it will take a very long time. You will not be able to finish your project or use it during that time. And the long cure period will subject the coat of paint to high risk of contamination from dust and other disturbances. The paint may also run and cure unevenly and unattractively. However, there is certainly the possibility that all you will lose is time. But what is more valuable than time?
My experience is that you will get really bad orange peel on smooth areas. If its just small model figures, the surface will be so complicated you won't notice, but smooth areas, curved or flat, will probably look bad.
You mean upon bringing the now cold target into a warm environment? I’ve not had the issue and suspect 1. My garage isn’t that hot and 2. Houses are usually pretty dry inside due to forced air heaters. What do you think?
interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for car paint spraying courses try Alkarno Spray Paint Alchemist (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my co-worker got excellent success with it.
Thanks for the tip. There's been a lot of engagement on this so I will keep your tip in mind to pass along. I'm right in the middle of a follow-up video, testing a paint drying set-up in sub-freezing temperatures!
My problem is my car won't fit through the front door
That’s a big target!
If you approach with enough speed, she'll fit.
@@braydensleath9016 I'll have to give that a try.
Thanks! Quick, informative & accurate. I literally NEVER thought to warm up in ‘normal’ weather. (Shake like a polaroid but never thought of that. Have placed in front of heat vent, have used hand-warmers in a thermos lunch-bag when moving, but I’ve also had a can rupture from too-hot water. Any & all tips appreciated! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment and engagement. Happy Holidays! And keep creating!
This really helps! I get Gunpla as christmas gifts sometimes and now I don't have to wait till May of next year for the weather to finally get warm and dry enough! Thanks 👍
Glad I could help!
Awesome tip Bob - thanks for sharing! I'll definitely be using your technique. I'm 40 -50 miles north of Philadelphia and although it's been a mild winter - we have gotten some (and will get more) pretty cold days. Good info to put out there! Best, John
I’m glad you put this out. Even though it doesn’t get super cold here I now know I can paint in the cold. Thank you for the tip.
Warming your paint is valuable no matter what the temperature. Well, unless its over 100 out there! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video! I made the mistake of spray painting in the winter last year and got really patchy/splattery results. I'm glad I found this video to prepare for my next project! Happy Holidays!
You are so welcome! And thanks for the comment. Let me know how your winter paint project comes out! Glad to know you aren't letting old man winter stop _your_ creativity!
Did the paint flake off easily?
Thank you! You really help me to solve my problem, this chilly Russian morning (-15 °C, 5 °F).
Glad it helped. That IS pretty cold! What were you painting and how did it come out?
@@PKWModelwerx It was Warhammer miniature, I was varnishing it, it come out fine, no negative effects. I live in an apartment building and usually working with spray paints on my unglazed balcony. But from November to April, there is almost always below zero outside. So, like you advised, I warmed up the can of varnish and the model, and also heated up the room that adjoining the balcony. The process of varnishing was quick, about 30 seconds, to prevent the model and varnish from getting too cold.
Thank you so much this is a great plan to spray paint in the winter.
You are so welcome! Love your channel name and appreciate the engagement.
Good stuff! I've got minis/hotwheels to paint and dont want to wait for spring! 😀
Thanks for the comment. I'd like to see some pics of your results!
@@PKWModelwerx for sure! :D
Great tip Bob. I would have never thought of that. We have a lot more snow that what you’re showing.
Pittsburgh has had a very mild winter, so far. Nothing has lasted more than a day or so but lows below 20 several times. At least all that cold knocks the humidity out of the air for painting purposes! Thanks for watching!
Great tips, thank you.
Thanks for the engagement and good luck on your projects!
thank you ! it worked like a charm, i only has one question does this method also work for a spray can of matte finisher by krylon? or how would you go about spraying finisher in the cold? thanks again !
Glad you had success. I think these principles apply regardless of the type of paint - oil based, water based, etc. So I think it should work with the Krylon product. It would not surprise me if you read the label to find that the Krylon product was an oil-based matte lacquer, not unlike Montana Black graffiti paint. Let me know how it turns out for you. And thanks for the feedback.
@@PKWModelwerx thanks man ! & yeah heated up the matte finish, applied it & it came out great ! so yes you can also heat up finishers!
I don’t have a garage in my home. So during winter can we just cover using a container to make the paint dry in a cold weather?
Sorry just seeing your question. Keeping the target warm during the drying process not only speeds drying but i think might be a necessity. So covering would be some help. But i wouldconsider using some gentle heat source inside the enclosure. Reptile heating pad or similar? Maybe an incandescent light bulb? Be safe whatever you set up and good luck.
Nice video. Thanks, I subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
thank you for the tips! I'm trying to spray a a roof rack cargo basket. I will need to flip it to spray the backside of it for each coat. How would you go about doing this in the cold? would you bring it in (to a warmer area - which I have access to) after painting each side every time to dry for 10-15 mins before painting the other side? What would be a good way to move it from cold (outside) to warm (inside) when a fresh coat has just been put on?
Thanks Bob!
Thanks for viewing and the engagement. happy painting!
Very informative video
Thanks for the comment. Good luck painting!
Thanks Bob Johnson!
Thanks for the engagement. What are you painting? How did it come out?
@@PKWModelwerx Warhammer space marines! Haven’t sprayed them yet, it’s been raining all week!
Great tips!
Thanks! Appreciate the comment. Be well out there!
I have a dilemma here. I'm doing some body work on my car and it needs some bondo work and some paint. I was thinking of just doing the paint for now since I'll have to sit there with a heat gun to have the bondo stuff cure. I wouldn't really mind except I can't find a heat gun atm. But it's going to be around 40F today. Only 32F atm still early but should I be able to paint ok? I'm not able to heat up the target since it's my car and no heat gun. Just some small rust spots I sanded down to metal. Gotta self etch prime, paint then clear coat. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!
Just seeing this. Sorry for the delay. How about the wife's hair dryer? Maybe get the area into the sun for some time to warm it further? That temperature range is only around 20 degrees too low so you might be OK. But I'd bet you would be more comfortable if you could warm the target. If you have an attached garage I wager the temperature in there will be warmer so you could park the car in there to warm it a little? Maybe tape a hand warmer to the surface or an electric heating pad? Sorry I can't be more help. Good luck!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for watching and the engagement.
How about those hand warmers you can buy and tape it one or two around the can.
Good idea! Or a heating pad or boot warmers or something. That might warm the target as well. And if you have no garage you could leave your painted model in a closed box with a heating pad until it dries a bit. Good thinking @dwight kerley! Thanks for watching!
I'm thinking about designing and building my own paint drying booth - ala Doctor Dry Booth in Micromark but for a fraction of the cost. Sound interesting? Of course that's after I finish my spray booth.
@@PKWModelwerx my idea for a spray booth is take a box fan tape a filter to the back of it and take a box and open the bottom of it an tape it to the box
Dwight Kerley I have to vent mine outside. And your plan puts fan motor brushes in an explosive air stream (unless I exclusively airbrush acrylics, which I don’t). I did a video on explosion risk. But I admire your ingenuity. Spray can propellants are highly explosive so be extra careful with those.
What would you say is the coldest weather you can paint in? I live in Canada, right now where I live it can get as low as -10 Celsius in the winter but most of the time it is 0 to -5. Would that be too cold?
Very difficult to answer. I think if the target is small, wind is low, and everything is warmed up well, you can paint at those temperatures. But at some temperature the paint will get too cold traveling between the can and the target. I would run an experiment before painting something you care about. Good luck and let me know how it works!
Solid advice my friend
Thanks for watching and commenting! Good luck with your painting.
is this only for small projects that's easy to moves? I was thinking of painting much larger things
Yes I paint small objects and the logistics get tougher as you paint bigger objects. Unfortunately the realities of paint chemistry don't change. A warm target will cool down during a long painting session and warm paint will also cool. It starts to make more sense to build an enclosure for larger projects I think. But I've never had to tackle those challenges. Thanks for the thought-provoking comment. What are you painting?
@@PKWModelwerx going to paint a dirty drum smoker
Maybe this is crazy talk but how about running a low fire in the smoker to keep the outside warm? Of course that assumes you’re not painting the interior and can effectively paint all around without moving or flipping it over. Good luck. That’s definitely a challenge.
Can we use regular face mask instead of respirator for protection?
@Will Swift got it thanks
How about using a clear coat spray paint in the cold? Should I warm it up as well? It’s about 10°C here and I have already spray painted. Not sure about a clear coat though, I don’t want to ruin my work.
Just seeing this. Assuming your base coat has fully-cured I don't see how a clear coat will damage it. That's damn cold though. I've never worked below 20. If you could wait until it was closer to 32, I would do so. I fear even warm paint or lacquer will get cold on the way to the target with it that cold. Do you have anything you can run a test with?
Patrick what did you end up doing?
@@PKWModelwerx I sprayed it outside and left it out for 3 minutes to dry. I then brought it inside to cure in the heated apartment. It worked great!
@@patrickkarrow awesome! It’s not easy working in an apartment so good for you!
@@PKWModelwerx This is my current dilemma! Living in an apartment in Northern Ontario, but trying to refinish a couple guitars. Super cold outside but can't get away from the fumes in the apartment. Helpful video! Thanks for doing what you do.
What do you do if you don’t have a garage to let it gas out in? When should I bring it inside?
That's a tough one. I'm assuming you are painting small objects, like plastic models. The longer you can leave it outside, in a temperature controlled environment, the better. Even 10 minutes in a carboard box you have warmed up in the house will help and let the initial gassing out happen outside. Then, you might try moving it into a bathroom with the vent fan running, and close the door. I think this all depends upon the sensitivity of those you live with to the smell. I did a video on explosion proof spray booths so I have some idea of the dangers and I would say the explosion risk of spray paint gassing out, especially after a few moments outside, is close to zero. Hence, I think the risk of a bathroom fan causing an explosion in that situation is approaching zero. You could also consider building a drying booth using cardboard or plastic sheeting and a space heater running some warm air through the chamber. How about a reptile rock in the box to keep it warm? I'm liking the reptile rock as it won't blow any dust onto your paint job. Time to get creative!
Thank you!
You're welcome! And thanks for watching. Let me know how your winter painting works out!
@@PKWModelwerx worked out so well that I spent time looking for THIS video now that I am ready to start consistently painting and its winter again!
Is that montana black beast color?
Just seeing this question. Sorry for the delay. Montana Black is good lacquer based paint. But lacquer has some peculiarities so what is best really depends on a lot of variables. Montana Black does have an incredible range of colors, which is a strong point for me. Note that Montana Gold is acrylic and I believe water based.
@@PKWModelwerx would it be possible to mix ACME paint and Montana black?
@@danwitavan5146 I can't tell whether ACME is oil or water based. My guess is you would not want to use an oil based spray paint on top of a water based and uncured paint, and vice versa. But Montana makes both oil and water based paints. Again, I'd do a quick experiment. But once either has dried, you should be able to apply the other on top.
Good luck!
Essential while living in Canada
I bet! Thanks for watching and your comment. Here's to more modeling in 2021!
I bet! Thanks for watching and your comment. Happy New Year
What happens if you spray paint a cold target with cold paint and leave it outside in the cold?
If it cures it will take a very long time. You will not be able to finish your project or use it during that time. And the long cure period will subject the coat of paint to high risk of contamination from dust and other disturbances. The paint may also run and cure unevenly and unattractively. However, there is certainly the possibility that all you will lose is time. But what is more valuable than time?
My experience is that you will get really bad orange peel on smooth areas. If its just small model figures, the surface will be so complicated you won't notice, but smooth areas, curved or flat, will probably look bad.
What about condensation
You mean upon bringing the now cold target into a warm environment? I’ve not had the issue and suspect 1. My garage isn’t that hot and 2. Houses are usually pretty dry inside due to forced air heaters. What do you think?
interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for car paint spraying courses try Alkarno Spray Paint Alchemist (should be on google have a look ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my co-worker got excellent success with it.
Thanks for the tip. There's been a lot of engagement on this so I will keep your tip in mind to pass along. I'm right in the middle of a follow-up video, testing a paint drying set-up in sub-freezing temperatures!
wayment ... you look and talk like that Street Outlaw fellow ... Chuck - except every other word that spews from his mouth is beeped out ...