Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work.. Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru. You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes. I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense.
That is a genius idea! I haven't thought of that but I can see why it would help with all these small orifices. I'll make sure to use this trick on both my cars, snowmobiles, and other vehicle carburetors. Did you have to secure the tube with the smaller orifice or did it still stay in place itself? Thank you!
@@SmackeysGarage You leave one end of the tube unchanged so it will still fit the spray can. The business end will be tapered after the stretching. I never found any port it didn't reasonably fit snugly inside. One other advantage is, all of the cleaner goes thru the port instead of being wasted as over spray.
So I believe those springs are holding the slide tight so that it doesn't vibrate around too much and it should minimize the tolerance stackup in the rods on the carb slide mechanism. Essentially holding it in a known position even if those rods have worn some.
No, just turn the knob off for the carb heater and lift the line on the other side above the coolant tank level. I haven’t ever had to drain it. It’s a good idea to check the level though after. You will lose some.
@@SmackeysGarage ok thanks for the info,I’ve switched the fuel filter and the belt..it goes a bit faster but it still bogs..hopefully I find out the solution soon..you never know when you’ll need to go full throttle
Quick search on eBay and they look the same. Process overall should be the same for any carbureted sled. Take off fuel bowl, clean jets, clean fuel bowl, reassemble.
Okay so I did all this and the fuel just kept coming out of the fuel line under the carb ,I can’t stop it , any tips on why? would be best done with an empty tank? Thanks
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On my stock 800 I keep it between 1-1/2 and 2 . This year, I'm starting at 1-3/4 out and adjusting it based on how it rides. I try and do a trial run early every year and check the plugs.
Depends on which sled you have it in. Some of the sleds have different needle combinations. My sled, 07 800 is set at 1.5 from the factory according (dooTalk/HS reference). When I was having high idle issues with worn slides I ran it about 2 turns open with 20 jets. I haven't ran it this year, but with the new slides I have it set at 1.75 turns. Lots of factors, depends on your setup! 1.5 is a decent start on my sled I watch my plugs from there.
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Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work..
Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru.
You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes.
I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense.
That is a genius idea! I haven't thought of that but I can see why it would help with all these small orifices. I'll make sure to use this trick on both my cars, snowmobiles, and other vehicle carburetors. Did you have to secure the tube with the smaller orifice or did it still stay in place itself?
Thank you!
@@SmackeysGarage
You leave one end of the tube unchanged so it will still fit the spray can.
The business end will be tapered after the stretching. I never found any port it didn't reasonably fit snugly inside. One other advantage is, all of the cleaner goes thru the port instead of being wasted as over spray.
Got it. Thank you. That is really a great idea!
Great job. Gave me confidence to do mine.
Thanks! Glad I could help. Most important thing is making sure the fuel lines are reattached correctly and there are no leaks after.
Great job. Helped me a lot. Thanks!
Glad it helped Lee!
Automotive Tech here,picked up a side job on you guessed it,snowmobiles! Really well done video.
Thanks Austen! I appreciate it. Snowmobiles are fun to work on and ride!
What about setting the float levels?
I’ve never adjusted mine and haven’t seen a need to. I’ve just left them in their stock positions.
Damn you got a nice car😳
Thanks! Yea, I enjoy it in the summer :)
What are the springs under the top cover for?
Do you have a time stamp on the video so I can see what you are talking about?
@@SmackeysGarage 8:27
So I believe those springs are holding the slide tight so that it doesn't vibrate around too much and it should minimize the tolerance stackup in the rods on the carb slide mechanism. Essentially holding it in a known position even if those rods have worn some.
Do you need to drain coolant
No, just turn the knob off for the carb heater and lift the line on the other side above the coolant tank level. I haven’t ever had to drain it. It’s a good idea to check the level though after. You will lose some.
Do you know what could cause bogging on a Tundra 600efi 2020? It has 3000km
Fuel issue. I'd check the fuel pump or fuel filter if there is one in the gas tank. Maybe snake a boroscope camera in.
@@SmackeysGarage ok thanks for the info,I’ve switched the fuel filter and the belt..it goes a bit faster but it still bogs..hopefully I find out the solution soon..you never know when you’ll need to go full throttle
Any idea if this is the same carb on a 08 summit 800?
Quick search on eBay and they look the same. Process overall should be the same for any carbureted sled. Take off fuel bowl, clean jets, clean fuel bowl, reassemble.
@@SmackeysGarage thanks for the reply! Sound good!
Okay so I did all this and the fuel just kept coming out of the fuel line under the carb ,I can’t stop it , any tips on why? would be best done with an empty tank? Thanks
It’s gravity fed. If it’s left open it’ll keep dumping the tank. I put a bolt in there and a hose clamp temporarily to stop the leaking.
Check Out My Other Pre-Season Videos--
PreSeason Maintenance: th-cam.com/video/TBXudH0se4M/w-d-xo.html
RAVE Valve Cleaning: th-cam.com/video/HR9_hSGqkxE/w-d-xo.html
Changing the Chain Case Oil: th-cam.com/video/Jh0zopWOlrY/w-d-xo.html
Help me reach my goal of 1000 subscribers and follow along for new content! th-cam.com/users/SmackeysGarage
How many turns out on the air fuel screw does it need to be at? On my 600 it's at 2-1/2 out
On my stock 800 I keep it between 1-1/2 and 2 . This year, I'm starting at 1-3/4 out and adjusting it based on how it rides.
I try and do a trial run early every year and check the plugs.
What was the fuel screw spec? Turns?
Depends on which sled you have it in. Some of the sleds have different needle combinations. My sled, 07 800 is set at 1.5 from the factory according (dooTalk/HS reference).
When I was having high idle issues with worn slides I ran it about 2 turns open with 20 jets. I haven't ran it this year, but with the new slides I have it set at 1.75 turns.
Lots of factors, depends on your setup! 1.5 is a decent start on my sled I watch my plugs from there.