I've been looking for months for a video like this! Most carb videos start with the carb already on the bench. You provided exactly what I needed! I was tearing my hair out to figure a way to get access to the air/fuel adjustment screw. This was the cat's pajamas. I think I got it fixed, but now have an antifreeze leak. Probably the right AF hose, which you can't even see and must put on by feel. Well, I get to feel it all over again tomorrow.
This is the only good carb video on TH-cam. Believe me, I’ve watched a million. It’s insane what lengths you *don’t have to go to in order to effectively maintain your carbs. Don’t bother with the needles, ultrasonic cleaning, bullshit, etc. clean your jets and go ride.
Great video. I tried the “1-1/2” turns on my 03 MXZ 800 X (2003.5) and that was too lean for my sled. I marked my nobs with sharpie on the top and did 1/4 turns back clockwise (closed) 3 times. That would be 3/4 turn for me. Thanks for the help! This helped me with a boggy sled at idle to back to normal again!
Omg what a nightmare. 2002 summit more room. But runs good wont idle without some throddle. Suppose il look at it like you did. Whyd did mikuni make these carbs old ones better.
The air/fuel screw. If I am running rich and want to lean it out, do I screw in it further? Or screw it out further than the 1-1/2 turns that is standard? Sorry if I missed it.
You have to shim the needle or take one out. That is the only way to make it richer or leaner threw the entire throttle. Messing with the screw or pilot or main will only adjust the idle, 0 to 50% throttle then the main is the 50% to %100 throttle. So if you putt around or rip around full throttle and the plugs are always to rich then yes the needle is the move. But if when you rip around fast hit full throttle alot and the plug looks great then that would mean your needle and your main jet are correct. If you putt around just letting the clutch engage for 10 min and the plug looks great the the needle is good and the pilot is good. So i would set all the srews so specs and jets then ride it. I would bet it would be easier to start from there and test.
Removing the secondary is a little bit trickier since you have to take the bolt on the shaft out from the "chaincasehole" but otherwise it's pretty much the same.
@@FredRobich how do you get the carbs out without removing the secondary? Also to remove the secondary clutch will i need to open the chaincase? Mines a 2009 rev xp 500ss.
@tjrubi7463 Having a really long Phillips screwdriver for the carb boots will help you big time. It's a pain in the ass but once you do it twice, it's fairly straight forward lol If you do remove the secondary clutch, you'll need an adapter that holds the bolt in place, otherwise a shim will fall in the chaincase and you'll have to open it up. If you already need to change the oil in the chaincase, that shouldn't be an issue.
I live in Maine and have done this exact process to my Ski-Doo carbs maybe 10 times in 4 sleds over the years. It’s tedious but easy if you take your time. I know a shop in Buxton that does this work too if you live down this way.
I've got a hanging idle on my 2009 skidoo 800 summit. After riding it stays around 3300-3600, after shutting down and restarting it's around 2600 but after first starting up and idling it's right at 1800. I've tried blipping the throttle with no luck of it dropping, and throttle cable didn't seem bound. I'm wondering if my carb is clogged or I read somewhere that a coating on the carb slide wears off. Where is the carb slide located and what's your opinion on my hanging idle problem
Hanging idle can be a lot of things and tough to solve. I would first play with the idle mixture screws. Then I would check the slide coating. It’s the big flat slide when you loo down the barrel of the carb, never rule out something simple like an improperly adjusted throttle cable. Cracked y pipe potentially, cracked carb boots. Let me know how you do when you check all that. Feel free to comment or drop me an email rrebussini@gmail.com
I had the same issue with mine first ride after buying it used. I tore the carbs down and found the clip that holds the needle backed off and the needle was actually floating in there. Needle was also bent slightly so I am replacing them
I've been looking for months for a video like this! Most carb videos start with the carb already on the bench. You provided exactly what I needed! I was tearing my hair out to figure a way to get access to the air/fuel adjustment screw. This was the cat's pajamas. I think I got it fixed, but now have an antifreeze leak. Probably the right AF hose, which you can't even see and must put on by feel. Well, I get to feel it all over again tomorrow.
This is the only good carb video on TH-cam. Believe me, I’ve watched a million. It’s insane what lengths you *don’t have to go to in order to effectively maintain your carbs. Don’t bother with the needles, ultrasonic cleaning, bullshit, etc. clean your jets and go ride.
You are my go to video Man- easy to follow. Thanks for the excellent content!
Great video. I tried the “1-1/2” turns on my 03 MXZ 800 X (2003.5) and that was too lean for my sled. I marked my nobs with sharpie on the top and did 1/4 turns back clockwise (closed) 3 times. That would be 3/4 turn for me. Thanks for the help! This helped me with a boggy sled at idle to back to normal again!
It’s always a carb lol
Try Seafoam in the Gas tank first. It has done miracles for me on everything not running good, it is also 2 stroke compatible.
Seafoam is good. I find it’s best to actually go through them and clear blockage
I finde ski doos to be pretty easy to work on i have 2002 700 with the same carbs but i got DPM so i got all those extra air hoses going to the carb
That brass tube in the carb bowl that appears to go up to the idle air screw. Are you supposed to be able to blow through that?
@@jacobschmidt6349 the needle, no. Everything else yes.
@@bobbyrebussini1466 what do you mean the needle? Like the Needle on the main jet?
Omg what a nightmare. 2002 summit more room. But runs good wont idle without some throddle. Suppose il look at it like you did. Whyd did mikuni make these carbs old ones better.
The air/fuel screw. If I am running rich and want to lean it out, do I screw in it further? Or screw it out further than the 1-1/2 turns that is standard? Sorry if I missed it.
You have to shim the needle or take one out. That is the only way to make it richer or leaner threw the entire throttle. Messing with the screw or pilot or main will only adjust the idle, 0 to 50% throttle then the main is the 50% to %100 throttle. So if you putt around or rip around full throttle and the plugs are always to rich then yes the needle is the move. But if when you rip around fast hit full throttle alot and the plug looks great then that would mean your needle and your main jet are correct. If you putt around just letting the clutch engage for 10 min and the plug looks great the the needle is good and the pilot is good. So i would set all the srews so specs and jets then ride it. I would bet it would be easier to start from there and test.
Will this work for an xp? Is the process of taking them out the same?
Removing the secondary is a little bit trickier since you have to take the bolt on the shaft out from the "chaincasehole" but otherwise it's pretty much the same.
Steps are the exact same. I've done it twice without removing the secondary clutch and it's not too bad
@@FredRobich how do you get the carbs out without removing the secondary?
Also to remove the secondary clutch will i need to open the chaincase? Mines a 2009 rev xp 500ss.
@oskar343109 rev xp 500ss. Will i be able to remove the secondary ? Or must the chaisncase be opened also?
@tjrubi7463 Having a really long Phillips screwdriver for the carb boots will help you big time. It's a pain in the ass but once you do it twice, it's fairly straight forward lol
If you do remove the secondary clutch, you'll need an adapter that holds the bolt in place, otherwise a shim will fall in the chaincase and you'll have to open it up. If you already need to change the oil in the chaincase, that shouldn't be an issue.
Hallo, kann man den Skidoo 600 auch mit Benzin Öl Gemisch fahren, also ohne Frischöl ?
yes! but you have to delete the oil pump and add larger carb jets to compensate.
@@bobbyrebussini1466 Danke für die schnelle Antwort, schöne Grüsse aus Österreich
where are you located?
Rhode Island
@@bobbyrebussini1466 dang, I'm in Maine and would love to find someone like you to work on my sled
I live in Maine and have done this exact process to my Ski-Doo carbs maybe 10 times in 4 sleds over the years. It’s tedious but easy if you take your time. I know a shop in Buxton that does this work too if you live down this way.
I've got a hanging idle on my 2009 skidoo 800 summit. After riding it stays around 3300-3600, after shutting down and restarting it's around 2600 but after first starting up and idling it's right at 1800. I've tried blipping the throttle with no luck of it dropping, and throttle cable didn't seem bound. I'm wondering if my carb is clogged or I read somewhere that a coating on the carb slide wears off. Where is the carb slide located and what's your opinion on my hanging idle problem
Hanging idle can be a lot of things and tough to solve. I would first play with the idle mixture screws. Then I would check the slide coating. It’s the big flat slide when you loo down the barrel of the carb, never rule out something simple like an improperly adjusted throttle cable. Cracked y pipe potentially, cracked carb boots. Let me know how you do when you check all that. Feel free to comment or drop me an email rrebussini@gmail.com
Also hard to check but you may have a worn needle and seat that will also do it.
I had the same issue with mine first ride after buying it used. I tore the carbs down and found the clip that holds the needle backed off and the needle was actually floating in there. Needle was also bent slightly so I am replacing them