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What about the centrifuge based bypass filters? those claim to capture and retain water as well as submicron sized particles including accumulated soot.
@@2000freefuel try Amsoil, they have the best oil and lube products, backed up by independent labs. They also have a bypass system. Used all of their products more than 40 years. They work. Gale Banks of Banks Engineering and Banks Performance products is a huge fan of theirs after testing their claims and proved what they claimed.
So I have 2003 250.000 miles Ford E150 main seal leaks about a quart every 200 to 300 miles . Alao have a 2006 Cbr with 30.000 miles . Use the used 10/40 fron the bike andi put it in the truck. Its been almost a yera maybe i should put a bee for motorcraft filter.
As an equipment rental company we added by-pass filtration to multiple pieces of equipment in an effort to extend the hours between oil changes. Some equipment piles up hours much faster than others. Without going into extensive detail, we found a by-pass system worth the cost and the extra testing also found some issues we might not have known about, possibly saving us on major engine repairs. I agree with extended change intervals, not with never changing oil. Fuel contamination and loss of lubricity was also our concern.
I definitely agree We have a lot of local equipment with bypass filters And soot is a problem for us I just used it for Extra protection along with a magnet on bypaszs filter it's still has metal on it In the shape of the magnet whe n you cut The bypass Open.eabp120 amsoil
I run them for extra protection but I promise you I'm having a sludge problem right now and have one in the shop Because of 30 to 35K oil changes With the bypass Shafer's and Donaldson blue oil filters
No, it's naturally whatever color it is. That being said it looks darker in the video for some reason than in natural light, I think that might be why it looks dyed.
I spent 27 or so years as a hydraulic mechanic, and 13 of those years I worked with Kubota powered forklifts. One company, that used the cranes and forklifts that I specialized in, decided to get the oil tested instead of changed. In the Kubota engines they had us put Royal Purple oil in, then send out samples at change intervals. All was good for a while, then when a sample came back bad and a change was recommended it was changed. You never get every drop of the bad oil out, and the next sample came back bad as well. And so on, and so on. With hydraulics changing the oil in the tank is only 50 percent of the story, there was always "bad" oil in the hoses and cylinders. Just change the darn oil at the recommended intervals.
Ya. But you didn’t hVe the bypass type filtration installed right? So as far as this conversation goes your point kinda doesn’t make sense. Having the bypass lower micron filter installed means that when you do finally change your oil the filter ends up pulling any old contaminants out of the new/old oil.
@@Mad.Man.Marine change oil when it gets dirty. Simple as that i know a few eng builders. I change gear oil in my kx every 2 rides. Oil does breaks down and thats not a debate neither is the need for oul changes to protect the longevity of motor engines
The only way you can be sure all of the oil is clean 100% of the time is with a.good bypass filter. Im not sure which of the bypass filters is the best. There are several that clean oil. I like the big Gulf Coast filters for big hydraulic systems.For small systems the little Gulf Coast junior is as good as you can get. I like the Australian Jackmaster Classic. If I can't use paper towels or toilet paper in a filter I dont want it. I dont want any filter that opens at the bottom. I like the top loaders. I dont plan on paying 30 bucks for a small filter element as long as I can find Scott 1000. To me there is good oil that is clean and good oil that is dirty. I just put 5 gallons of Lucas hydraulic oil in the Ford tractor. I have a bypass filter for it.Dont have it on yet.The hydraulic oil operates the hydraulic system and the 12 speed manual transmission.. The Lucas was the only one Auto Zone had.that met that specification.
So that's hydraulic oil and not engine oil which are comparedly the same however the hydraulic oil isn't constantly being moved around as in like an engine a lot of it will stay in the hoses and cylinders
I have a 2005 freightliner with the mercedes engine. The original owner had the gulf coast bypass filter. I bought the truck with 1,100, 000 miles. He never did anything to the engine. It has 1,270,000 now and it's running strong. It does not burn oil. He did oil changes. I think the extra filtration helps a lot to make the engine last.
That’s the way I’d use em- not so much for these insane extended intervals, but more so just extra protection for the engine. I do believe they help alleviate wear.
I just got a truck with That engine. I’m kind of nervous because of what people say of them I’m glad someone is using one that’s been good to them. Makes me feel better lol
I was a diesel mechanic in the Navy, and on the ships, there are centrifugal oil water separators that force water out of the oil. The only time oil is actually discarded is when it gets too much acidity or fuel dilution. Acidity can be dealt with, but fuel dilution is extremely dangerous. If fuel dilution gets too high, you end up with a crankcase explosion. The sumps of the engines have pressure relief covers to help prevent a catastrophic explosion. However, if the crankcase does explode, it obviously isn't something that is minor in nature. So if on a truck diesel you end up with fuel dilution, it would probably be a good idea to change your oil as a sump without vents would be a ticking time bomb. One of the schools that I went through was all about fuel and oil quality control and filtration. In that school, we were taught that oil doesn't "go bad" it simply becomes contaminated, so your statement about oil not going bad is correct according to the U.S. government.
I was gonna say my dad was an engine man in the navy and told me about those centrifuges said they would spin it out and add detergent back in this was back in the 70s
The last statement has me worried. 😂 I don't trust the government to do anything right, but hey, a broken clock is right twice a day. I lean towards agreeing with them, but engine speeds are low, and it's a much different environment in a ship engine vs. an OTR truck or car engine. Rail engines are similar; one fill for 10 years, until the next inframe.
@ChevyConQueso it depends on the engine as to how low the rpm is. If it is an LSD or LPD, then the max main propulsion engine has a max rpm of 500 due to the size. If it is one of the generators or a smaller boat's main propulsion engines, then the rpm is the same as any OTR truck. As to not trusting the government, I agree. However, they tend to be the ones that set the standards when it comes to oil. It is only the intervals of oil change that are set by manufacturers.
I run a FS 2500 bypass filter on a 2000 5.9 with 640,000 trouble free miles on it. I went 100,000 miles once on Delvac 1 synthetic. That drained oil tested fine but I could not wrap my head around going longer. I now change filters every 15,000 miles and change the oil every 30,000 miles. The bypass systems work. They work by trapping the small particles that cause engine wear. I now run Rotella T-6 5W-40 oil and use one quart every 10,000 miles. I swear by bypass systems to extend engine life.
Railroads tend to not change the oil in large locomotive engines. They change the filters, clean the strainers and sample it on a regular basis (they change it if the sample comes back bad, but that usually also means they have to fix something on the engine). And of course add more when it gets low. This strategy has worked fine on EMD, GE and ALCO engines for decades, but hasn't worked as well on the occasions when CAT or Cummins engines have been tried in locomotives.
I work for a Class 1 and have been told the same from mechanical department guys. Was told as well they run straight water in the cooling system with some kind of special drain that will drain the system automatically before it freezes.
As a locomotive engineer on a class 1, the engines burn and spill engine oil so fast that changing the oil would be useless 😆. As for the coolant yes basically straight water is what we use sometimes they add additives in it but in the field we just fill them back up, the engines have to be running constantly tough, they have GURU plugs to dump the water in case it gets too cold.
I believe this is the case for ships with their huge engines. Their sump holds a few thousand kgs of oil and the intention is for it to never be changed, just regular lab samples.
I thought it was interesting how they have an instrument that passes electric thru a used oil sample. The instrument is zeroed on new oil. If the reading is too high a sample goes to a lab to see why the high reading.
A marine mechanic told me that in the second to last ship he worked on, they only changed the oil once a year, but they also cleaned the inside of the engine with gasoline. No problems more than a decade. The last boat was more modern, changed the oil more often, but didn't clean the inside "and we had to send it to the docks for repairs tree times already" he told me. It made me think a lot at the time.
Used to work with a naval mechanic that told me medium speed and slow speed diesel engine (medium speed diesel here your engine is the size of a large pale loader, slow speed means your engine is the size of a building) never change their oil. The use centrifugal filtration to clean the oil. They will from time to time replenish additives but the oil is never changed. Alfa Laval is one of the manufacturer of those centrifugal systems.
When I was an engineer in the Navy, we never replaced lube oil, our oil purifier took out moisture and sediments.. just added make up oil for small leakage. Used purifier’s on main engines and auxiliaries.
We have a customer with a bypass filter system on his ISX. Religiously takes oil samples and almost never changes his oil. Has had no problems with 700k so far.
Many years ago, I worked for a company that installed, long interval oil and grease systems. We put these large hi capacity filters on, then had a reservoir that held fresh oil, unit had a timer and at intervals, would inject a specific amount of old old, into the fuel tanks, and replace said oil with new oil. Also had a automatic, greasing system, which would deliver grease to, kingpins, fifth wheel, bearings in clutch, etc. It was designed to let team drivers take a new truck, and basically run it until it needed tires or something broke.
Josh my recommendation since I run bypass filters is do not change your oil schedule. The main thing that a bypass filter does is remove carbon. It really helps with the new emissions engines. That's why I sent the email showing all the carbon. Thanks for doing the video. Also one key thing is plumb your filter after the oil had gone thru the engine and turbo. Just my knowledge of using them for years.
By pass filtering can also remove some of the condensation buildup with the crankshaft pressure bypass system and it’s debatable if the micro filter does actually work some just run the bypass without the filter because the vacuum put on the bypass system from the intake would just pull it across the mesh and not give it time to absorb it but all in all will help with corrosion on your injectors and spark plugs because you’re getting cleaner air in you’re intake and releaving pressure on you’re crankcase and if you have problems with too big of a vac on the system and are pulling more oil then you were in the first place you can put a tiny hole in the system to give you’re truck a makeshift chop tune and still have the benifit of releasing the pressure on the system
That isn't actually a good idea, in the event that something fails, like your turbocharger, your engine's going to suck up all that crap instead of it getting caught by the filter first.. The oil should be filtered BEFORE it goes into the engine, not after. Not to mention that cold thick oil creates excessively high oil pressure, and you could destroy gaskets by plumbing it after the engine instead of before.
@@dat_boy_be_rolln2058 Ive used the filters for 60 years. I dont understand anything you wrote.I currently use Motor Guards Gulf Coasts a Australian Jackmaster Classic and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use 4 1/4 inch Scott 1000. Its a matter of cleaning the oil and sending it to the sump.
@@ralphwood8818 in the application I’m talking about it’s not a matter of cleaning the oil it’s about crank pressure relief you’re going to be replacing your oil every 3000 hours or so anyway so the idea of removing the particals is out of the question because the only way you’re truly going to be able to filter out that small of debris you are going to drastically decrease the flow of said fluid
I worked for a major diesel engine manufacturer for 30 years, from 1970-2001. Early in my career I got to travel to a major trucking firm who was experimenting with " no oil change for 100k miles" and they were basing that on using a centrifugal type by-pass filter. The engines were inline 6, 855 cu.in displacement, turbocharged, so you probably know what engine manufacturer I represented. Long story short, it was amazing that the engines I inspected were still running just before they were disassembled! First thung is, the fleet did not service their by-pass filters, every one of them was completely solid with filtered oil contaminates that the filters had removed from the oil before they became inoperable because of lack of servicing, so these engines ran a long time with no by-pass filtration. Almost all piston rings were broken, the oil ring expanders were solidly locked to the oil ring if they were not broken, many upper rod bearings were broken in half across the oil hole and were worn into the steel back, main bearings were completely worn to the steel backing, injector push tube were stuck in the cam followers as they had worn themselves into the hardened sockets and injector links were totally worn out, some with 1/8" protrusions into the oil hole, upper rocker bushings were gone, the engines were basically scrap! Had the by-pass oil filters been serviced as required it would have been a different story, but how different I don't know, oils then met the applicable API specs of the day, but not as good as todays.
Diesel mechanic I know went to a 60HP Belarus farm tractor because it was smoking. He checked oil centrifuge which was chock full of solid carbon. ASked owners when was last oil change. Never changed oil and had it 10 years!! after giving it a good clean up and fresh oil it ran as one would expect I had a100 HP tractor with centrifugal oil filter in transmission. Oil was so clean it could not be seen on dip stick, you had to feel for it!!!
When you change the big Gulf Coast filter you have to add 3 gallons of new oil. Thats why you dont normally have to drain the oil. The centrifuges I believe dont require a lot of makeup oil You have to drain it and add new oil I base that on a Honda motorcycle with a centrifuge. Engines need an amount of new oil added. ATF its a matter of keeping it clean and not over heating it.
Im an engineer on a tow boat. My company used to run puradyns and never change the oil unless catastrophic engine failure, or a bad sample. The goal for us on a boat engine, anything from a 3406 or a detroit 60 series up to 12 cylinder 645 emd’s it to get 40-50,000 hours on them before rebuild or replace. Ive seen a few of the older ones go 45-50,000 hours running puradynes. But my company just ditched the puradyns as the prices for those are about the same as changing the oil and filters. We havent been changing oil long enough for me to definitely tell you it’s better, but i was one advocating for it. We have a few engineers in the River division that have said nope to the company’s desire to run the puradyns and not change the oil and just changed it anyway. Those guys have had less engine failures across the board than the puradyns. There is a place for the puradyns, they are wonderful for equipment that you literally cant shut it down to drain the oil. Just close the valves to the puradyns, change them, add 1-4 gallons per filter you changed, open the valve back up. But i stand by that if you can shut it down and service it traditionally you will get longer engine life.
I remember when I was a teenager now 62 there were some log trucks still running liber- finer by pass system and I remember they would go several thousand miles after a oil change and the oil looked like you just changed it but as oil got better people quit using them I also remember mount saint Helen eruption and every log truck through away there paper air cleaner and went back to oil bath working in the volcanic ash the engines lasted longer on the oil bath. Everyone dismiss’s old tech but some of it is still relevant. Thanks for the video I always enjoy them.
We sold the oil bath as a heavy duty option The paper filters cleaned.better but the oil baths held more dirt.My tractor has an oil bath. Since I dont work under dusty field conditions I would be better off with a pleated paper filter. Im also not happy removing the air intake to open the hood.. some like to convert the oil bath to pleated paper. I have a nice Nissan diesel pleated paper filter. It sets off to the side with a hose running to it. You got me thinking. I just bought the old tractor i dug out the Datsun air cleaner today. Its slightly larger.. might need a longer band clamp.. Thanks for bring up the subject.
The tractor oil bath air cleaner was full of water and sludge. Probably never been cleaned in 40 years. The Nissan diesel air filter was a little too big. Put a Oldsmobile filter on it. The.fuel filter was half full of water and sludge.Probably the origional. When you buy a tractor that has been sitting for years in a field thats what you get. First time it started instantly and sounds strong..I tossed the fuel filter. Had a remote fiilter mount. Put a motorcraft Fl 1 A on it for the fuel.. Not sure the gravity would push the diesel thru the toilet paper. Might try it later.
When I sold my truck it had 1,128,000 miles on it. Used a bypass oil filter, Filtration System, changed the filter every 10,000 miles. Changed the oil every year. Never been inside the engine except overheads 1X a year when I changed the oil. If I was still working it, I would continue. Good system sure caused a lot of questions & comments. Thank You Sir
I use Amsol and their bypass filter that filters down to 2 microns. I use oil analysis and when I've tried to run extended drain intervals( over 20k)my Soot numbers get too high. This engine has 1.8 million miles and 800k on the bearings so I'm doing a bearing roll in. I'll email you some pictures. I can say that Amsoil increases my fuel mileage 0.3 mpg over Shell synthetic. I only run synthetic motor oils because it helps with the sub zero starts and high oil temps when pulling mountains.
I have a Detroit 12.7L set at 600hp that I'm running an OPS bypass system on while using Rotella T6 15/40. Like you, soot is my biggest issue when trying to extend intervals. I've settled on a filter change at 15k, and then a full change at 30k. I tried a 20/40k interval in the earlier days, but my soot was at danger level by 40k.
@@ZXTrucker Paccar mx13 ,syn oil changes at 10k , filters at 30k .I noticed filters never get dirty if oil kept fresh ,as oil is the main reservoir of contaminants .
The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron filtration if you use their elements. I use toilet paper. The Jackmaster is designed to handle the bigger core TP. The core seal at the bottom is about 1 and 15/16 inch. I have a stainless steel shim that increases it to 2and 1/4 in case the cores get bigger. All of the filters I use can handle the bigger core toilet paper. I prefer the top loaders. Frantz is obsolete now..The toilet paper changed Frantz didnt.i use toilet paper.
@@mrmotofy They are both good oils. I just bought heavy duty diesel 30 weight at Walmart.. Walmart didnt have Delo or Rotella 30 weight.. It is Super tech. The label says for off highway use. Dont drive the old tractor on the highway.
I used to wrench on cats a few decades ago. Our oil rep broke it down to the point of saying that the oil never "goes bad". What happens is that the additives breakdown and wear out. But the oil is essentially the same, as long as you dont run into problems like coolant and/or fuel dilution. That was when we were experimenting with full synthetic royal purple. But definitely the key is oil samples! You have got to know what is going on inside and how your engine is acting. Great video josh, this is one of those topics that concern me now that ive been driving for 2 and a half decades and wrenched on them almost the same time frame, i worked for a company where you would service your own truck a lot of the time. Every little bit of information on most everything you cover goes a long way in know little and not so little things to look for.
And how do you explain that the viscosity gets less and less the longer you run the oil (oil samples show this)? Ps. I have no idea why, I just know this from seeing oil samples on our fleet.
there so called evidence is not enough for me . I been a mechanic for 38 years and depending on how the engine was ran how often was it under a heavy load and so on and all of this has a factor on the internals of a engine and oil and as oil get filter your going to have to add oil at some point . this system might be ok but not changing the oil I don't agree with .
Oil breaks down and goes bad. You see the viscosity drop as the oil "sheers" due to the molecules getting chopped up-smaller molecules are generally less viscous. If you watch extreme oil change videos where people run their cars 50-100k before changing the oil, you'll see it flow out like water, then gulp out the sludge. So yes, the oil absolutely goes bad.
Another issue to consider is the additive package breaking down over time. Detergents, Viscosity stabilizers, zinc and other high pressure lubricity additives... these are all known to break down. It might be possible to lab test the oil and add the components back in, but I'd say its best to extend the interval but still do regular changes.
When you change the 3 gallon filter you add 3 gallons of new oil every 10.000 miles.That is how you get the new additives..My little filters get about a quart.of new oil when they are changed. Im not very smart but I figured it out. I must be smarter than most of you guys.
@@ralphwood8818 so what would the dilution ratio be on that? At what rate is each additive depleted? What is the current PH of the oil, especially if TBN gets low? It's your engine, but I'd send a sample for testing and UNDERSTAND what the numbers mean.
@@Only1Shadow Im told oil analysis showed 3 gallons of new oil every 10.000 miles was more than it needed. For the numbers you would need to talk to Gulf Coast Filter Company. They do the oil analysis reports. I just change the filter and add a quart of new oil. The biggest thing I drive is a 76 F 250 with a 390 engine. Gulf Coast has a stack of oil analysis reports. I think they read them for a fee.. A NASA diesel equipment guy was asking me questions. I put him in touch with Gulf Coast. I believe they are listed as a customer now. Along with Shell Offshore and others. Shell oil was involved with the million mile truck. Im pretty sure it used Rotella 15 40 conventional. For big engines you need big oil filters. The little bypass filters are for my Ford.
@@Only1Shadow Im sure the additives were never depleted The TBN number never got too low. Being a test truck it got a lot more oil analysis reports than the average over the road truck. I know my TBN number is ok because I run at normal operating temperature enough to keep the oil dry. Weak acid will attack steel. My dipstick looks good.. The aluminum parts in the oil filters look good. I could probably spend some money on oil analysis and extend my filter changes a little more. I dont drain oil without reason. It aint rocket science.
A small Frantz toilet paper filter will work just fine to filter out wear particles. The giant Gulf filters are a pain to deal with and their proprietary filters will eat your wallet long term. Put a gauge on the input and when you see a rise in pressure replace the roll. Send in a oil analysis every 5k miles and as long as the results are good keep rollin.
100% frantz bypass one of the best filtration setups, even seen their setup for fuel filtration they catch all the crap and water within the toilet roll
Using a roll of t paper has been shown to allow oil to cut pathways between the layers. Amsoil filters elements can not by bypassed. They are great to deal with and will provide technical support via phone, or Internet .
I used to install Franz filters. Still have a new setup on the shelf. They are great for larger engines, but they can be too restrictive starving lifters for oil. Might have had to replace a set or two.
My 37 Studebaker book says its not necessary to drain the oil just change the oil filter when the oil looks dirty on the depth gauge. In those days they used cotton the same as the Luberfiner. The last time I checked the big filters such as the Luberfiner 750s used pulverized newspapers and wood chips. You can get away with a lot with gasoline engines. With diesel engines you need to know what you are doing. If you wait until the filter starts pressuring up you are screwing up. The reason the big Gulf Coast filters clean oil as good as toilet paper is they have a orifice the same size at the inlet. The oil soaks down thru 22 inches of paper towels. Similar to a gravity fed filter. The big Luberfiner 750 types the oil has to travel thru about 3 inches of pulverized newspapers. When John Frantz converted the old cartridge filters to TP the depth went from about 2 inches to 4 inches. The TP in the Jackmaster Classic got about 3/4 inch shorter feeding it with the 1/16 inch orifice. Thismeans I could go with a smaller orifice or a two port sandwich adapter such as they use for oil coolers. The Ford diesel tractor has a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that I got from Jegs years ago. I didnt have a Frantz two port sandwich adapter left from my old Frantz days that fit.
I'm 100% for bypass filtering, but also keeping your oil change intervals the same, maybe extended a bit. Double safe. Incredibly well protected engine.
These filters are for mechanical type people. I was putting a Frantz oil cleaner on a new 1963 Dodge pickup. His brother drove up.He said if I had known you wanted a Frantz I would have given you mine.. He said my oil is dirty and my lifters are noisy. He was asked when he changed the Frantz last. He said change it ? The guy I bought it from said it would last a lifetime. The Frantz went on his brothers car..
@@davidschulman7988 Ive done it for 60 years. Find a top loader. All I have is The little toilet paper filters. Gulf Coast juniors Motor Guards and the Australian Jackmaster Classic. I converted a flat head Ford canister filter to use Scott 1000 toilet paper.
I've been a diesel mechanic for 25 years. I manage a fleet of 37 freightliner cascadias and 2 years ago we decided to add an additional bypass filters on all of our trucks. At first I thought this is a bad idea, but I do a oil analysis every 25000 miles so I can keep an eye on it. After doing some research I found out oil does not break down. What really happens to oil is it gets contaminated. Now that I've done this for 2 years with my fleet and have data from the oil samples I can tell you this works. My maintenance program in regards to lubrication consists of changing the bypass filter every 25000 miles and take an oil sample. On top of that I change the oil filter at the block annually. I wouldn't suggest doing this unless you intend to monitor the oil through analysis and do repairs based on your results.
Thank you for making such fine videos! On my 94 Pete 379 with a 3406 mechanical C I change my oil and OEM filter every 300 hrs. Ive got a bypass filter that I change every other oil change. I view a bypass filter as something to extend engine life NOT oil life. Purchasing engine oil will not hurt your bottom line but early major repairs and down time to do the repairs do.
How long an engine lasts doesnt depend on how much money you piss away on allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it. I see some are changing the Gulf Coast filter every 10.K miles. Ssme are going 20 K miles. All it amounts to is keeping the oil clean and adding enough new make up oil to keep the additives up to specs.
Worked it out within the first 5 minutes of the video, the text you screen grabbed says they have a service interval for changing their oil filters and they replace lost oil with that, overlooking the fact they admit to 1 oil change outright, i guarantee that theyre replacing/topping up oil during their service intervals for the filter that basically they are doing mini-oil changes instead of one big traditional oil change. Its simple physics
I agree with you that running bypass filtration is a good thing. Hell, I even run a bypass filter on my coolant. I also change the oil regularly (see my point below)....but I do extend a bit. Sampling is key, as you rightly point out. However, for HEUI systems (one of mine is), the use of an HPOP usually means a high degree of molecular shearing going on which will drop the viscosity of your oil considerably. I would love to hear your thoughts on this and how that maps to greatly extended oil change intervals.
2006 C15 Acert, I used to change my oil every 10 to 15k miles. Now I run an OPS Eco-Pur oil bypass system with Amsoil Signature Series 15w40 and I sample and change the full flow and bypass filters every 25k miles. Unlike the others the OPS has a heating element to evaporate liquid contaminates. Due to this my fuel dilution has gone from 1% before installing the system to less than .5%. (trace) after. As far as the additive package breaking down, the make up oil that gets added has been more than enough to keep the additive package at the correct levels according to my oil samples. I hope this info helps.
The centrifuge separators I've seen on old Soviet machinery is awesome. It removes particles of any size. Just replace the rotor cup periodically, or clean it if you can chip the crap out of it that compacts in and becomes like concrete.
My 305 65 Honda motorcycle had a chain driven centrifuge. Mack trucks used them. Not sure what the oil change intervals are. The Honda packed the sludge in hard in the steel drum. I had a Frantz oil cleaner on the Honda 500 Custom.
The Heui system is known to shear the molecules and a filter doesn't stop that. Just changed the oil and lab it to know when I run a bypass and lab it. It filters 10% of the full flow and is microned small enough to pull suspended soot 🤠
The filters are saturated with oil and when replaced additional oil is required. The regular oil filter is also full of oil that has to be replaced. You actually replace about a gallon of oil with each filter change. That may be helping the system to work.
Yep, a partial "spill and fill" removes some oxidized oil, replenishes VIs, replenishes additives, removes some water and fuel, and removes suspended particulate. The particulate that is in the sump oil of a bypass filtered engine isn't a problem though; it is smaller than the oil clearance of the bearings and smaller than the minimum oil film thickness so it never touches anything. Replenishing the detergents and acid buffers is what's important. The TBN of used oil eventually reaches 0 as the moisture builds up and creates acid in the oil, consuming the buffer. Replacing a fraction of the oil bumps the overall sump capacity back up to a serviceable level. The viscosity improvers are what allow an oil to be dual grade, and they get sheared up and oxidized over time. Running a straight single grade oil will be best for an engine that's bypass filtered and being pushed for a very long extended OCI. No VIs mean the grade only changes due to fuel and water dilution. The problem with straight single grade oils is how thick they are at ambient temperature. An oil pan heater and a pre-lubricator are recommended for doing this. An engine that runs at speed under load 90%+ of its lifetime won't have issues if those 2 things are installed for the odd times that it's cold started. Virtually no wear occurs when an engine is at operating temperature, under a mild load at speed above idle, and below 75% of its redline. Most of an engine's wear over its lifetime occurs at cold startup and during the periods that it's driven/used before it and its oil sump has reached full operating temp. Like, large emergency standby generators? Oh man, they get tortured to death their entire life. They sit for days or weeks at a time, and only fire up when needed or when tested. They get cranked over cold and immediately slammed up to normal operating speed and put under a modest load. :'(
@@Grant3758 I had the system on my truck it adds approximately 2 gallons more than the original amount also you send out for analysis they can keep an eye on your oil and tell you of changes in your readings and help trouble shoot slowly progressing problems that can turn into big problems that you would not notice with regular oil changes unless it's really bad
On my Pontiac I change the toilet paper every 6.000 miles and add a quart of new oil. The wix has been on there for 63.000 miles and about 4 years i check the dipstick for problems. I dont spend money on oil analysis. I dont drain oil. The old Pontiac will out last me. Its worth about 1000 bucks. It has the Jackmaster Classic. If I see anything big on the top of the TP I will change the Wix. The big Gulf Coast filter holds 3 gallons of oil.
They call it one oil change in a million miles. The reason the engine had virtually no engine wear at a million miles is the engine isnt allowed to run on dirty oil. It probably had close to 350 gallons of new make up oil added in 1 million miles. Oil analysis showed 3.gallons of new oil added when the 3 gallon filter is changed at 10.000 miles is enough. I know some Gulf Coast filter users are going more than 10.000 miles between filter changes using oil analysis. Very misleading saying 1 oil change in a million miles.
In the USN large stationary diesels almost always had a centrifuge plumbed in as a bypass filter as well as full flow filters lube oil was only changed after fuel dilution reached 5%. I always thought fleet truck or equipment operations would benefit from plugging in a centrifuge when the engine was out of service and warm .
My Detroit 12.7 developed a head gasket oil leak at the back of the head. It uses a little more than a gallon per week. 3 years ago I installed an amsoil bypass filter and haven’t dropped the oil since, only changed full flow filters every 15k and the bypass filter as recommended at 120k, So every week it gets a fresh gallon and every 15k it gets it gets a little over two fresh gallons of new oil plus another 2 about every year when the bypass is changed. I have not done sampling and have had my fingers crossed about fuel contamination but I’ve made it to 850k and am not opposed to rebuilding or replacing at this point anyway. I installed the bypass at 532k.
I have installed around 25 of those filters on otr trucks. Each time you service the filter you end up adding 2 or so gallons of fresh oil. This adds detergent packs back into the oil. filter elements are actually paper towels with a sock type material over it. If I remember right, bounty fits best. Also, a 60 series actually requires a full oil change at some point. I think they recommend 300k. Been a while. You also send a sample for tests each service. Main filter gets changed every 30k I think. I don't remember there ever being an issue on those rigs. Pretty good system.
They didnt use the sock covering when I sold them. I think the sock covering was started because a lot of people worry about tissue migration. Personally if I had concerns I would get a remote filter mount for a secondary spin on filter.and get Bounty big roll papertowels. The Australian Jackmaster Classic has the TP in a sock. My diesel tractor uses a Perma Cool Universal sandwich adapter. The clean oil from the flat head Ford canister filter toilet paper conversion goes to the inlet of the full flow filter. When Dune Buggies and Hot VWs tested the Motor Guard toilet paper filters in the 60s they put an inline fuel filter in the return line. They needed it to cut open and check for fibers. They found none. In reality all it amounts to is keeping the oil clean and adding enough new make up oil to keep the additives up plus to dilute the soot that is too small to be filtered out. The million mile truck I guestimate gets about 350 gallons of new Rotella in a million miles just on makeup oil at filter changes..
@@battleaxefabandmachine I havent sold them in 20 years. About the first thing people ask is wont the toilet paper clog up the oil system.The Jackmaster Classic has the element in a fabric cover and claims 1 micron filtration.Remove the cover and you find a very firm roll of Australian toilet paper. The big Luberfiner 750 filters used pulverized newspapers the last time I checked. They had a secondary strainer in the core. The rolled paper gets stronger in oil. I recently bought a 79 Ford diesel tractor.with a loader. Did the engine. My next project is finding out where to add hydraulic fluid. I built the system on the Farmall H. It has a big spin on primary filter and a little Gulf Coast junior secondary filter on the hydraulics. Dont see any way to put a bypass filter on the hydraulics on the Ford..Had to go on TH-cam to find out how to operate the Ford. Two gear shifts and 12 speeds. 3 point hitch controls. I need a book.
@@battleaxefabandmachine I put the single roll Gulf Coast O-1 filters on the big hydraulic systems at Safety Kleen. I also did the yard mules with O-1s and the other engines with toilet paper filters O-1 juniors. I put the Gulf Coast junior filters on the Cummins 5.9 on the Fire pump and the 4 cylinder Cummins Sky Trac. The junior could handle a pretty big hydraulic system. The Cummins engines didnt get used enough for the big filters.
Natural Gas compression. We run engine oil 15k hours plus. Sample every 30 days, filter changes every 4300 hrs. This is on 3600 series engines. I know natural gas fuel is very clean to begin with, but the additives are oil additives are still there even after that much run time. And the more they run, the lower oxidation, moisture contamination and TAN stay. Great video!
I'm a firm believer in centrifuge oil filtration, if it's good enough for ships, and large diesel power systems (my experience), also for truck engines, stock on PACCAR MX13, optional for Cummins X15.
I've been running bypass filters since the 1960s. They extend the engine life or periods between overhauls. My experience is mostly marine Detroit Diesel 2 cycles. I owned commercial fishing vessels, tugs and a long line of pleasure boats. Engines I ran with bypass filters compared to the same model run by others just about doubled the life between overhauls. I did all the overhauls. Rarely did I ever have to recondition a crank or cam. The bearings were replaced with standard bearings. I was originally was trained on aircraft piston engines, so every surface was mic'd and recorded. I also ran 2 micron fuel filters because of all the parts in a mechanical Detroit injector. I did oil tests yearly. I'm retired, live on a large yacht with twin Detroits. I use a standalone centrifuge now. The oil never gets black, always semi-transparent. The engines were built in 1947, rebuilt once by me 11 years ago. Having clean fuel means I haven't changed an injector since the rebuild.
Being an independent owner operator with one truck and a limited budget I would be extremely scared to put this on my truck because I can't just wipe out 15k if my B model cat goes kaboom.
I used to work for a large equipment company with their own fleet of trucks, and they ordered their last batch of trucks with mechanical 3406’s with centrifugal bypass filters, in conjunction with the factory Cat full flow filters. At a 12,000 mile oil change interval, those centrifugal filters were collecting over a half inch layer of heavy sludge in their collector basin. They started extending their oil change intervals to 18,000 miles, and included cleaning out the centrifugal system at the half life of the oil. It worked out well for them.
One reason the big Gulf Coast filter works with no oil drains is it takes 3 gallons of new oil at filter change. Thats every 10.000 miles with the million mile engine.oil analysis showed that was more new oil than needed. My experience is a centrifuge on a motorcycle. I dont think they require enough makeup oil.
Had this system on my last truck. 2001 Freightliner 12.7l Detroit. 1.5 million miles before liner and piston in #1 went poof. Only changed oil when oil sample showed it needed it. Best memory was 5 or 6 over its lifetime.
I use by pass filters all the time but I still change my oil on a normal schedule…I run them for the times I may pass my scheduled change and/or just for a extra safety….You talked about fuel dilution, fun fact the P51 mustang (along with other planes of the time) use to dilute engine oil with gasoline via a switch inside the plane to thin the oil for cold starts…I study plane mechanics and maintenance because I believe they one up the standard mechanic in maintenance and standards in some ways…
I read somewhere that they flipped a switch and injected water in the intake on the fighter planes for extra climbing power. Any of you guys ever heard of the old FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz filters.. They used toilet paper. Saw some on crop dusters north of Sedan Kansas in the early 1980s.. Read a few oil analysis reports on light aircrafts.
I run a 2007 LBZ Duramax w/ FS-2500 oil bypass - Filter cartridge is 2mU. I also use a PPE Hi efficiency Filter @98% efficient collecting 10-20mU particulate. I do filter changes every 50-60,000 kilometres & Oil every 100,000 kms. I do similar with my fuel filtration (FASS) typically change those every 25 -30,000 kms. Filtration = Longer life.
I wouldn’t try it myself. But as long as it never overheats or gets contaminated by coolant. I can definitely see the benefit. Really interesting. Thanks for bringing attention to this
I used to work for Roadway express. They had the Web system that dripped 1quart of oil into the fuel tank every 350 miles. Theory was by adding fresh makeup oil it replenished the additive package. They never changed the oil just filters at 25,000 miles. Plenty of engines with a million miles
I’ve never ran em on any of my trucks. I kinda wish I had, but I didn’t keep trucks long enough to see how well they’d work. I will say this (keep in mind this is WOM, not my personal experience), if you have a traditional spin on oil filter- between it and the bypass filter, you’re putting in close to a gallon of fresh oil every time you change those filters (replacing lost oil from the filter changes), so in a sense, you’re doing a full oil change every so often anyways. Obviously it’s a lot cheaper than replacing it all at once, but I’m making the point for those that worry about stretching the old oil too long.
Ive used toilet paper filters for 60 years. Its a matter of keeping the oil clean and adding enough new motor oil to keep the additives up. With the test truck its 3 gallons of new oil added when the 3 gallon Gulf Coast filter is changed every 10.000 miles. The full flow filters are also changed at 50.000 miles. With my small engines its 1 quart. Very misleading to say one oil change in a million miles. The system doesnt work with small filters.
@@ralphwood8818 yeah, that’s my thing with em. I’d heard one gallon, but 3 is even more obviously. Either way, you’re basically changing the oil anyways, so I don’t necessarily buy the hype of extended drain intervals. But I do think the bypass filter might still be a good purchase, just for extra cleaning.
@@thetowndrunk988 Its a matter of keeping the oil clean and adding enough new oil. The million mile truck got a lot more oil changes than one. Over 300 gallons added in a million miles when the big 3 gallon filter is changed isnt one oil change.it looks like the old Ford diesel tractor I just bought will burn a quart of oil in a days work. I probably wont need to drain the oil or change the bypass filter very often. It uses Scott 1000 in a converted Ford Flat head canister filter..
The old Ford tractor fooled me. Thought I had an oil burner. Didnt give the oil time to drain out of the bypass filter..If I only check it when its cold it reads full.. Not used to anything newer than a 51 Farmall H . This 79 Ford has a lot of features. I have depth filters on everything now except the coolant.
Hi from the uk Many years ago when I was a truck mechanic I worked on some cummins engined trucks with by pass filters. No tests were done but back in the 80s it was reckoned that you could double your milage between oil changes. They make claims about moisture? That shouldn't happen as the truck shuld be up and running for long enough to stay at operating temperature long enough to evaporate any moisture. Yes you are right oils do break down around 250F or 140C and the additive package that makes the oil what it is deteriorates from the first time you start the engine. Yes by pass filters are good news but oil analysis will let you know when it's time to change but you have to be selective about who dose the analysis as the cheep ones only look at soot loading and the next level look at metallic content when it is the actual oil that needs to be checked for its viscosity change and additive depletion Keep up the good work
but oils break down, theyre polymer chains n they slowly get broke down n dont do their job anymore... i mean their just simply isnt any way around that...
I definitely trust a product from a website that looks like it's from 1995 👍 😂 The only thing missing is some fancy clipart text. There's a lot more that happens to oil then just particle contamination - fuel dilution, mechanical shear, oxidation from heat - a filter can't deal with any of that. Oil changes will always be the cheapest and best insurance for an engine.
I change oil and filter 14 to 15k. Have a cat c-15. 10k years back. Maybe not so important now with oil analysis, you could find something on the plug or in the drained oil that shouldn’t be there. Same with draining transmission or rears. It has worked for me for 48 years and counting.
In reality the reason the Gulf Coast.filter system works is it cleans oil and is big. The engine gets enough new oil because you add 3 gallons of new oil when you change it .The Road King article said changing the big filter every 10 K miles is equal to a full oul change every 40.000 miles. The system wont work with a little filter or with a engine problem like coolant contamination.The system requires some common sense. There is a shortage of common sense.I would think you would have to make adjustments for different conditions. The truck.is an over the road truck. A heavy duty wrecker in Fairbanks Alaska would be different.
I've seen an engine run for ages where it was a completely self contained unit. Absolutely no oxygen coming from outside. It's exhaust was plumbed back into the intake and the oil was in the exact same condition it was what it was 1st put into the engine. No contamination to the oil. Impressive.
Large ships such as container or freight ships operate using a fill-once lifetime oil, and then clean and process it thoroughly over the life of the ship.
@@fidelcatsro6948 There was a Motor cycle club atound San Jose California. That had Frantz toilet paper oil filters on their Harleys in the early 60s I found out about them.. Seems like it was the Ridge Runners. I had a Frantz oil cleaner on my Honda 500 Custom. I converted the canister full flow to a Ford spin on. Used a Frantz sandwich adapter for pressure to the Frantz. I tapped a plug similar to a valve adjusting plug for a clean oil return. Hung the Frantz upside down back by a saddle bag. Good bike.The Harleys had the Frantzs bolted to the foot rest. It would take a Harley guy to install one.
I worked for roadway express and they used a system made by WEB. It dripped a quart of oil into the fuel tank every 350 miles. Theory was makeup oil replenished all the additives. Never changed the oil. Changed filters at 25,000 miles. Had many of the 2,000 linehaul trucks exceed a million miles. Saved big on oil disposal costs.
The truck I learned to drive on was a cabover KW with a small cam cummins. It had a luberfiner bypass filter on it that we changed at every oil change. I'm not sure if it was factory installed, aftermarket or an option. We never had any problems with that engine due to lubrication. In fact we ran it for over 800,000 miles with a camshaft lobe that had been dressed by hand through the side of the block (on the shoulder of I-10 in Mississippi) after a cam roller pin broke and flatten the peak. My Dad used a dressing stone made for bench grinder wheels to reform the lobe going far below the hardness layer. I would say that's a pretty good indication that the oil was doing it's job and that the filter was removing any particulates coming off the camshaft. I own 5 trucks now none of which have a bypass system and I have seen damage from lack of lubrication a few times. I would say it couldn't hurt to install one of these but keep the regular oil change interval or even double it. At least on ISX engines that carbon foul the oil very very quickly.
I know carbon packing is really bad with ISX engines. Having a bypass filter will clean most of the carbon out of the oil. Because the oil is always so clean, the detergents can remove all the build up carbon inside the engine and prevent any carbon from forming.
Worked for a guy that wouldnt start a engine until it had a Luberfiner installed. I cut open a Luberfiner element and found it packed with cotton waste with cotton plant pieces. I think Wix Fleet Guard and Luberfiners mostly use pulverized newspapers and wood chips now. The Big Gulf Coast filters have the economical refills the design of the filter makes the oil travel thru 22 inches of media. With the Luberfiner types the.oil has to travel thru about 3 inches. My 41 Dodge car came with a cotton filter the same as the Luberfiners. I was looking for a 8 n Ford tractor. Ended up with a small Ford diesel. I converted a Flat head ford canister filter to use Scott 1000 toilet paper and installed it. Opened it up today to see how it is working. Its doing fine but the toilet.paper has cracks in it which means water. Hopefully its just a little condensation.The oil isnt milky. Many years ago when I was a little younger i climbed up into WHITE Csb over.I thought this is the biggest truck.ive ever been in. I started driving in an old international with a Cummins. It had a lever on the engine that someone pulled while you started it. 220 Cummins ? I use toilet paper in toilet paper filters. I use paper towels in paper towel filters. You can pay 30 bucks for high quality elements for toilet paper filters. Rather than putting the towels in a bag I would install a secondary filter like a little spin on filter. and use Bounty big roll like the origionals.if I had concerns about tissue migrarion.
This has been tried for 40+ years, Caterpillar even sells engines with bypass filtration factory installed. That being said they still recommend scheduled OCI. The bypass filtration is to help extend OCI, NOT eliminate them. The frac industry is littered with failed 3512C engines due to customers having engines equipped with 250hr oil pans and pushing their OCI to 1500-2000 hr. I believe it's possible with a small engine such as the lower HP C15 on-highway, being driven every day to make the claim they've made, but I wouldn't advise it. Bypass filtration works, but it's not a substitute for OCI .
I quit draining oil in 1963 by using filters that clean oil and Delo W30. Multi grades were no good in 1963. I dont believe they could be used in a diesel.The polymers didnt hold up.They fouled hot engine parts..My oldsmobile diesel book said you could use multi grades in an emergensy until you could get 30 weight. Some engine makers said if you used 10 40 it would void the warranty..The reason being they had too many polymers. One reason I used Delo W 30 was with toilet paper filters it was golden. One time I replaced a head gasket and changed the oil on the Rambler American. Its a little risky telling people they wont need to change the oil with proper filtrstion.
It was common in the 60s for the engines to be so sludged up a filter that cleaned oil could reach its capacity in less than 50 miles. I would notice the filter not heating up. I would open the engine and clean out the sludge. Told my uncle he had a choice we could open the engine and clean it or change the Frantz every 50 miles. He traded the 59 Ford in on a new 63 Dodge pickup.
Normally the factory installed filters are not good enough to be a threat to the oil change program. That takes a big filter with a lot of depth such as the big Gulf Coast filters.
Awesome objective evaluation Josh. Very interesting cons and pros on both sides. I would guess a by pass system and bigger intervals at oil changes are the best. Cheers Josh. Always look forward to your Sunday videos man. Sorry no destruction yet. LMAO.
I worked at a factory that made bearing seals. The hydraulic oil in the machines was 50 years old. They had a filter cart with 2 filters that were 8" round and 3 feet long they would filter the oil until the cart wasn't in by-pass in the morning. Then go to the next machine.
Very interesting idea... I have been thinking about adding one of these oil bypass systems on my C15, so good to hear that you are onboard with the idea...seems to make sense, to me. Thanks for the great content and have a Happy Thanksgiving!
We have been running GCF for over 20 years it works well FYI the replacement filter are two rolls of bounty paper towels Are new equipment are getting Eco pure filter From Pittsburgh power We oil sample every 25 k
When I sold them they used Bounty. I believe Scott Paper company used them on tug boats. I wonder what paper towels they used. A lot of Scott 1000 toilet paper goes in our little filters.
It would be interesting to know the load & load cycle on the million mile engine . A friend has a c-18 cat in a boat that is set at 1200rpm & 450 hp & it has 60, 000 hrs on it . Pretty remarkable!!
I put a 1600 Nissan engine in a small boat.The stock propeller wouldnt let the engine get out of an idle. Im thinking how much power does it take to turn a little propellar. The boat came with a junk 2.5 4 cylinder chevy engine. I have a Skeeter bass boat that a guy traded a Harly Davidson for. The owner took him and his wife around the lake and it ran perfect. He didnt know how to back a trailer. His wife was laughing at him. Finally got it in the water. It started cutting out. He brought it back home. It set out in the weather for over ten years.175 Johnson Stainless prop. Needs new gauges. My daughter said you can get it running. I told her I would slide off the boat and make a car hauler out of the trailer.. She said no and ordered me a shop manual. Still in her ex husbands name..He signed the title.
60.000 hrs. I just bought a 79 Ford diesel tractor Its a little rough . Been out in the weather a long time. It seems like new mechanically. It has 1550 hours on the meter Got my TP filter on it. The oil they recommend is no longer available..
@@trentallman984 Not really, its harder pulling a prop, it never goes “down hill” per say. Its like the engine is always pulling. Also their is no transmission.
I worked on a couple of companies that trialled this . Some worked well .. some not so much .. but I've always been hugely impressed with the scania spinner filters .. would get to its service interval and the old oil still wouldn't even be be black . Didn't even seem worth changing it . Amazing for a standard set up .
Have the Amsoil system on my 96 Dakota Almost 500k on it now. But it burns enough oil that it's pretty much getting a constant progressive oil change at all times.. LOL
I use bypass oil filtration on my F350. The oil stays clear of soot, the only reason ive found to change my oil is when the oil loses its TBN and the anti-wear properties in the oil. Ive found one oil change per year suits me fine, prior to installing the bypass filter, my recommended oil change intervals were about once every 3 to 4 months.
When I ran a fleet of over 40 trucks, mainly 3406E, 14.6 C15s, and Acerts, I could get 20k out of every engine except Acerts. They would soot out the filter about 18,000 miles and plug filters. Once I was able to delete actuators, we could run higher intervals. I ran several types of oils as an experiment and never found any advantages of synthetics in the crankcase. Delo was the winner cost,versus intervals. I've overhauled multiple engines in the last 25 years that have had those bypass, never change the oil for reasons other than oil related problems and can say there was never really any significant change on internal parts between conventional intervals/oils. However, engines that had Lucas additive always had a gummy, nasty film inside. And the bearings always looked worse. Just thought I would chime in.
Back in the 60s I could squeeze the inlet end of the toilet paper and soot would come out. Squeeze the other end and clear oil would come out.. No one had to tell me the toilet paper could remove soot.with these newer gasoline cars its hard to tell the difference. I can see the top of the paper getting black before the bottom on the diesel tractor. It has the flat head Ford V8 canister filter modified to take a roll of Scott 1000..John Frantz got his start adapting the canister bypass filters to take superior toilet paper. I improved on the design.
I remember that million mile truck. I was talking about it about 1996. Paul Abelson Senior Field editor for Road King Magazine asked me for the truck owners phone number. They did an article on it October November 1996. The one oil change was someone forgot to tell a mechanic not to dispose of the oil it was a test truck. Its a little misleading to say the oil isnt being changed the Bounty Big roll paper towels are changed every 10.000 miles and adds 3.gallons of new Rotella. At 50.000 miles he also changes the full flow filters and adds 5.5 gallons. That is 17.5 gallons of new oil every 50.000 miles or the equivalent of an oil change every 40.000 miles. I believe Shell was involved in the measuring the parts. I stopped draining oil in my cars in 1963 using Delo 100 W 30 and a Frantz oil cleaner All I use now is the Gulf Coast the Motor Guard and a Jackmaster Classic. I did convert a flat head Ford V8 bypass filter to use Scott 1000 TP and put it on a Ford diesel tractor. I made a modification to the Jackmaster Classic. I drilled out the outlet orifice and added a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet to get it to heat up. Its the same as the Peterbilt except I add 1 quart at filter change instead of 3 gallons. I believe it was a Shell engineer that said its not unusual. For these Detroit engines to go a million miles but not be in near new condition. The advantage of the Gulf Coast system is the oil is never allowed to get dirty. Road King also did an article on Amsoil and a 3 gallon Como filter. With that system the oil eventually has to be drained usually 50 or 60.000 miles. The Detroit didnt have a million miles on it when Road King did the article.It was less than 750.000 miles. I lost track of it at over a million miles when I quit selling oil filters. Always wondered what happened to it. Gulf Coast filters has their filter elements in a bag now. Some people still use Bounty. One guy says he gets his big roll paper towels from Costco. That truck is old news. There are several others now using the same system.
When I started using bypass filters in 1963 you couldnt use multi grades in a diesel. Delo came in 30 and 20 weight..The discount stores sold it for about 29 cents a quart. In those days the only filters that cleaned oil were the Frantz and Motor Guard..For diesels you had the Frantz 3 stacker. Motor Guard had manifolded filters..oil is a lot better now. All I use now is 50 year old Motor Guards a few modified Motor Guard compressed air filters Some Gulf Coast juniors and a flat head Ford canister filter adapted to use Scott 1000.Also the Australian Jackmaster Classic. I prefer the top loaders.
I can see a system that will work. 35 years ago I worked for Ruan Leasing and they had a push on to build a million mile truck, the called a MEGA truck. Remember this was still in mechanical days, and 500,000 mile rebuilds were still a thing. Web had a system that would eject an ounce of oil into the fuel tank on a timer, and a level sensor that would add oil when the level got low automatically. The oil was never changed just the filters. We sampled everything and never had an issue. But the oil was BLACK. I know this isn't the same thing but kinda in the same vein. With all the clean burn technology in the engines today, it seems that better filtration and maybe adding some additives back in along the way would work. But of course the oil companies make money selling oil, so I doubt they will ever support such a program.
I remember that truck Ruan had i think it was a cab over Ford prime mover,they were trying to build a bullet proof truck here in Australia as well it was TNT Express kenworth SAR with silver 8v92 and 7 speed spicer,all mechanical truck,no air bags no electronics,air start.They had a truck on express that didnt need servicing,it had a oil tank that feed the sump and would suck oil from sump to fuel tank to be burnt off,self adjusting brakes and auto greaser
I would love to see a comparison from a independant lab between the internals of three exact types of engines. One with a bypass oilfilter, one with a coolent prewarming bypass waterpump (which is also heating up the engine to a certain degree before starting) and one is stock, after let's say 100000 miles under the exact external conditions (with the bypassoilfilter engine would be the only one without an oilchange, the others accordingly to the manual) , but that would be extremely expensive and therefore not be happening.
There was a system that injected engine oil in the fuel and replaced that oil with fresh oil, a little at a time. The idea came from a study (long ago) in heavy mining equipment. They had fleets of haul trucks where they allowed (small leaks) leaks on a portion of them (engine oil, gear lube, and hydraulic oils), but they kept the other units leak free. They found that the haul trucks with leaks had a longer service life, which is essentially the same as more frequent service intervals... or just replacing a small amount lubricant at regular intervals between services.
It’s called oilmate it was originally a Cummins product but I think they make it for all engines it works pretty good on non emission engines not so good with DPFs and other equipment now.
I have heard of that system. I would think it would require a good bypass filter to keep from pumping abrasives into the injection system. Many years ago some cars had a tank of new oil The oil lubricated the engine then went on the road. Might get you in trouble on paved roads.
Does the bypass filter remove fuel contamination? Diesel fuel is a much better lubricant than gasoline. I don't think a gasoline engine could get away with this.
Gasoline is easily removed by the heat and the PCV.. In the old days of mechanical fuel pumps a leaky fuel pump could put gasoline in the oil faster than it could evaporate. My Ford F 250 Ranger with the 390 has toilet paper filters on everything. The Motor Guard on the engine is over 50 years old..
I didn't read all the comments, but the following wasn't mentioned in the video. Another point to consider is when the oil filter is changed, the oil within the filter and that runs out while changing the filter, will need to be replaced with new oil. This could compensate for contaminates keeping unfilterable contaminates to a minimum for quite a while.
Bypass systems work extremely well, but it’s not an excuse to neglect your engine. Using frequent oil analysis is absolutely key to monitor these things like wear metals and coolant and fuel contaminations. One thing you did not mention was the use of oil bypass systems in conjunction with a high quality synthetic motor oil. The really high quality synthetics, such as Amsoil are far more resistant to those heat ranges. You can run oils like Amsoil at 250° all day long and never hurt it, while inferior oils will definitely suffer from thermal breakdown from even short periods of time over 270°. A place that we really see a benefit with the extra filtration actually makes HEUI Systems operate smoother. Because the fuel injectors operate from high-pressure oil, the cleaner the oil is the smoother the injector operates, you’ll actually see better fuel economy with a quality synthetic oil that is super filtered in these applications. We also have fleets of trucks that have noticed by using a bypass system with our high-quality Amsoil diesel oil, have seen a significant decrease in DEF consumption. Also consider that would be your top offs counteracting fuel dilution. He will also be adding more oil to the system when changing out the filters. And with the bypass filter system on a heavy duty truck you’re usually adding at least an additional gallon to the total capacity. I could go on for days.
My dad put a Amzoil bypass on a Briggs & straton engine. Used for power washing. 20 years ago. He changed the oil 2 times because the oil analysis came back with where metals a little high. The first time the second time was because he hadn't changed his air filter. After that. He would change air filter every year. That Briggs lasted 2.5 time longer than the mfg suggested life of engine. Every thing I own has Amzoil in it.
All of my small engines use either the Motor Guard or Gulf Coast filters and Walmart synthetic. The Craftsman got its first oil change in 20 years because I messed up and put a electric fuel pump on instead of the proper pump. Ended up with a crankcase full of gasoline. It had Mobil 1 in it. These big engine people are talking about stuff I know nothing about. When i was working I did yard mules lift trucks and all small stuff. Which reminds me I have a Gulf Coast jr equipped generator I havent ran in awhile.
Amsoil has good lubricants. They have no filters that can compete with the depth filters.such as toilet paper or paper towels. Amsoil will increase in viscosity like other oils if you run it too hot. All I have used is the 10 40..Stopped in Salt Lake City and got a Frantz oil cleaner and Amsoil from a Frantz Amsoil dealer for a 79 or 80 Honda Civic..Salt Lake City with no AC she didnt over heat the oil. What were they thinking when they came up with that dual remote system.Road King Magazine did an article on Amsoil and a 3 gallon Como filter.in a series 60 Detroit. What the hell is a Como filter l
I owned one of these and went to 500000 with no oil change. I changed the brand bypass to an OPS1 bypass. GCF states that when you change the bypass filter you have to add up to 2 gallons of make up oil. I really liked their device but it was large and very messy to change. One reason I went to the OPS system. Theirs you only have to spin a filter off and on. One thing none of the bypass filter companies tell you is that they DO NOT filter out diesel fuel from the oil. So if you have a bad injector you are still going to have to change your oil every 10 to 15k until you get the problem fixed. And for sure you better be doing oil analysis if you are going to use one of these.
Good.question.They know the oil is good. They are checking for engine problems. With my cars I dont drain oil but I know how to read a dipstick and read the roll of toilet paper. I know what clean oil looks and feels like.Also I normally buy cars that look like they have been taken care of and usually have a lot of miles on them.To most taken care of means changing the oil.To me taken care of means using a filter that cleans oil.
When working for Weyerhaeuser we installed a couple of centrifugal type bypass filters to see if we could extend oil change intervals. I was amazed at the amount of carbon that they collected from the oil! Probably about 2-3 lbs of solid carbon in 3,000 miles! The did look cleaner as far as being black. Oil samples showed less impurities in the oil also. But Weyerhaeuser didn’t start using them for some reason.
This is quite interesting ! We had a Powerscreen screening plant with a Deutz 4 cyl turbo , it had a toilet paper looking filter called Kleenoil bypass filtration system. It seemed to work good. Currently my 2012 International dump truck has the infamous maxxforce 13, I run rotella T6 and change it every 500 hours. With so much egr and soot , I’m wondering if I wouldn’t be long blowing it up even with a bypass. Also being a dump truck I’m in dusty conditions frequently. My take is, maybe a non emission engine , that’s on the highway at operating temperature, little dust, the bypass idea would work better ?
The bypass specifically is a truly great idea for engines with EGR systems. The EGR puts carbon particules into the oil and the bypass removes the larger problematic ones. It also removes dust, dirt, etc. In my opinion any engine that uses hydraulic unit injectors that use high pressure engine oil as the high pressure hydraulic fluid should always have a bypass filter. The unit injectors are incredibly sensitive to contamination.
Any filter that looks like toilet paper or paper towels is a good filter. When I started you had Frantz and Motor Guard. For diesels you had Frantz 3 stackers and manifolded Motor Guards. I cant keep up with all the good ones now. Some are too expensive for me. I get my filter elements from Walmart.
What I have heard from users of oil bypass systems is that while you don't do an actual full oil change, when you change the bypass filter (some have said they don't change the oem filter) you have to add a quart or two of oil. From their oil analysis it seems that the oil added makes up for the additives that have been used up between filter changes.
Had a yard mule at work with a 2 cycle Detroit.The boss said I cant have leakijg oil in the yard. I cut about 6 inches from a 55 gallon drum put some kitty litter in it and tied it under the engine. Anyone need a diesel mechanic.?
I worked for a fleet that ran the spinner centrifuge system and every oil change there was probably 1/4 to 1/2” solid on the outside edge paper. We still changed the oil at regular intervals but I think they were worthwhile
The reason the centrifuges dont work for this system is they dont require enough makeup oil. You still have to drain the oil and add make up oil. All it amounts to is never allowing the oil to get contaminated and adding enough new oil to keep the additives up to specs.
Amsoil has bypass filter systems along with oils and lubes. I've used their oils and filtration systems, both on my own and my customers machines. They test their stuff and have it tested by independent labs.
I remember in the early 80s Amsoil had a canister filter that might have.been as good as toilet paper. They had Bobby Unser saying this oil change is forever. The filters arent so good now. That dual remote system is a joke. They have good lubricants. Saw on TH-cam a guy was talking about Amsoil saving money. He poured more money in the fuel tank than I spend on oil in a year.
I run an Amzoil bypass on my Isuzu pup powered Ford ranger. Can't say it extends out my oil changes that much because the engine had unknown miles when I did the swap and seems to cruddy the oil up retty quick....But the logic is sound and cant hurt keeping this old diesel running longer. Love your channel:)
Lots of newer engines oil stay at 180 to 200 that over the 150. I put a centrifugal bypass on my daily i have really enjoyed it especially scraping the crud out. They use centrifugal filters on big ships for oil and fuel there engines costs a lot more so i tryed it.
Actually some of us have been running on clean oil before. There were synthetic oils. Diesel engines required single weight oil. When I started in 1963.. most dlscount stores had Standard Delo 100 20w and 30w for about 29 cents a quart.
Some of our railroad track construction equipment have “kidney loop filters” on the hydraulics. They seem to way cleaner when we do a pm service, and generally have less pump failures.
I used to work for a fleet in the 90's that used a DOC system which consisted of a solenoid actuating a plunder that injected 2 oz oi engine oil in to the fuel return line/ It was worked out to need around a gallon of oil on every tank of fuel, sometimes a little more than a gallon. Every time the driver would fill up he had to add oil. When we did pm's, we didn't drain the oil just changed the filters. Removing a valve cover was a gunk filled experience
Thank you for your video and review! James Sims Manufacturer of Gulf Coast Filters since 1980. Retired 2012 and without a doubt stand behind bypass filtration.
Got into a debate with a guy on a trawler forum..He said bring your wife down to Canaveral I will take you on a tour and we can talk about filters. I called Charlie Sims. I said send someone to talk to this guy. He said who is it i said it is a NASA diesel equipment engineer. He needs to talk to someone about big engines. I see NASA is a customer now. They were moving the shuttle then.
I had an experience with a specialized machine that had an Onan genset to power the machine up to 22 hours a day. With 15w40 conventional oil the oil got changed every 300 hours of operation. After I got the boss to buy 5w40 synthetic, the oil was changed every 600 hours. The real benefit was an 18% increase in fuel economy. While the synthetic seemed less gritty and slicker after double the hours. A fancy bypass oil filter is a smart idea. Since each of these systems filter the oil to be like new oil. And synthetic has less breakdown and cooking of the oil. I left that job after 6 years. But a friend that stayed with the company. Told me that after the engine had over 20K hours. Another identical machine that had around 10k hours. But used the standard 15w40 oil. Was worn out by that time. The 20k hour machine was checked by the Onan rep. He stated the engine was like new! Of course, radiators, water pumps and other accessories were replaced several times. But the base engine was in great shape! So the point is, use good synthetic oil, filter it the best you can. And change it at some regular interval. The engine will likely live long longer and cost less to operate than the design specs.
Overhauled an ISX years ago that went 1.4 million running gulf coast filters and oil change every 150k, new gulf coast filters every 50k or so. Engine looked good and still ran great, main reason for overhaul was oil leaking out of the back of the head gasket and owner wanted a reason for a vacation. Ran it then til he died.
Not when you are adding 3 gallons of new oil when you change the bypass filter. at every 10.000 miles. Additives last longer in clean oil. The million mile truck might have used conventional oil. I wonder if they use 100 percent synthetic in Shell offshore rigs. When I started trucks used single weight conventional. We didnt have synthetic oils for diesels in those days. Multi grades were no good.
Viscosity doesn’t break down in oil in straight weight. Multigrade has components that due and the vis will change. Viscosity is not the worry. Acids and sulfur formations form from condensation moisture. That is not a problem if un everyday and the moisture is cooked out if oil temp can meet or exceed 180degrees or more. OTR engines get run so long and often contaminates don’t have mich chance to accumulate but would over a period it would take to run 1000000 mile without a change. Also OTR trucks don’t run in dusty conditions like off road machinery. So.. what does it cost to do recommended oil / filter change’s versus the cost of an early overhaul or break down repair? Remember the treatment the turbo does to the oil that passes through it at the temps it runs at. Just some thoughts from 50 years of operating trucks, excavating equipment and aircraft engines.
This has been claimed for many years and many have learned hard way it doesn't work. Even city tried it few years back took out few engines. Just so much fun changing engines out in garbage truck. Like owners with CNG or LNG engine oil looks clean like new oil. Still has to be changed because it does break down
I've used bypass filters in the past and don' have anything bad to say about them. However...it just makes me fell good to change the oil and filters every now and then. I probably go overboard on oil/filter changes but my '02 Dodge Ram w 24v Cummins now has 200k miles and doesn't burn a drop in between changes. Think I'll stick with this routine.
I think the bypass system would be a good investment when used with regular oil changes. An un mentioned problem is the viscosity stabilisers used in modern oils tend to be the first to break down from a variety of causes, primarily through dilution mechanical separation and evaporation. With these additives gone the base oil remains but then lacks the viscosity performance needed in various operating conditions to protect engine parts. In this case a cold start or two every day versus a long haul constant temp engine will have very different long term outcomes. I also believe oil change interval should be more closely correlated to driving conditions, like extended stopping frequency, regional and seasonal temperature range and warm up cycles, rather than just miles covered.
I had a 2.5l BMW 6-cylinder TDS in my car, when I scrapped it after 500,000 km, I took the engine apart. The crank and connecting rod bearings were like new out of the box, no sign of wear. I would bet everything on the fact that the bearings would last at least another half a million km, maybe (definitely) more. Aleso beautiful honing on the cylinders, but the engine died due to a cracked head (pre-chamber engine) on each cylinder and coolant consumption. But the engine worked until the last moment.
I have watched 10 seconds and the answer is yes, for at least a decade and only changing the filters. I used to work for volvo trucks who made this claim years ago. Use high grade (relatively expensive) oil, and change high grade filters with a slight oil topup, and 1,000,000km is more than attainable. When asked why they don't, the answer was "because costumers refuse to trust it". Anyway, back to the video.
I like how diesel destructions are so well engineered they become singular component failure in many different areas as opposed to many different areas of component failures like with gas engines
A gulf coast bypass filter is just made up of 2 cheap Viva towel rolls wrapped in a medical sock. When you change the filter it takes 4 gallons of oil just in the filter canister.
I have read studies on adding by pass filter system, the out come is most claim to reduce ring and land wear. I talked to an industrial chemist about oil life span, he said not considering contamination, the life of oil is determined by the breakdown of the long chain molecules in the oil, STP and the like are a concentrated long chain molecule additive.
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Who knows something about the mack E7 engines BESIDES mack? I need major help
What about the centrifuge based bypass filters? those claim to capture and retain water as well as submicron sized particles including accumulated soot.
@@2000freefuel try Amsoil, they have the best oil and lube products, backed up by independent labs.
They also have a bypass system.
Used all of their products more than 40 years.
They work.
Gale Banks of Banks Engineering and Banks Performance products
is a huge fan of theirs after testing their claims and proved what they claimed.
Quick question for you, Cummins ism 2001 when cold it stutters when accelerating but when warmed up the stutter goes away, any ideas what to do?
So I have 2003 250.000 miles Ford E150 main seal leaks about a quart every 200 to 300 miles . Alao have a 2006 Cbr with 30.000 miles . Use the used 10/40 fron the bike andi put it in the truck. Its been almost a yera maybe i should put a bee for motorcraft filter.
As an equipment rental company we added by-pass filtration to multiple pieces of equipment in an effort to extend the hours between oil changes. Some equipment piles up hours much faster than others. Without going into extensive detail, we found a by-pass system worth the cost and the extra testing also found some issues we might not have known about, possibly saving us on major engine repairs. I agree with extended change intervals, not with never changing oil. Fuel contamination and loss of lubricity was also our concern.
Agreed
I definitely agree We have a lot of local equipment with bypass filters And soot is a problem for us I just used it for Extra protection along with a magnet on bypaszs filter it's still has metal on it In the shape of the magnet whe
n you cut The bypass Open.eabp120 amsoil
Extended hours- is way different than never change oil again.
I run them for extra protection but I promise you I'm having a sludge problem right now and have one in the shop Because of 30 to 35K oil changes With the bypass Shafer's and Donaldson blue oil filters
Foaming would concern me. Injectors in modern engines cost way more than oil ...
I remember watching your videos when i was 15 and taking notes…now im 18 and working with my dad as a heavy machinery mechanic..LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!
Super cool. Hope you enjoy it.
Know anything about the mack E7 engines?
@@AdeptApe
Did you dye your beard ?
No, it's naturally whatever color it is. That being said it looks darker in the video for some reason than in natural light, I think that might be why it looks dyed.
@@AdeptApe take that as a no?
I spent 27 or so years as a hydraulic mechanic, and 13 of those years I worked with Kubota powered forklifts. One company, that used the cranes and forklifts that I specialized in, decided to get the oil tested instead of changed. In the Kubota engines they had us put Royal Purple oil in, then send out samples at change intervals. All was good for a while, then when a sample came back bad and a change was recommended it was changed. You never get every drop of the bad oil out, and the next sample came back bad as well. And so on, and so on. With hydraulics changing the oil in the tank is only 50 percent of the story, there was always "bad" oil in the hoses and cylinders. Just change the darn oil at the recommended intervals.
Yep oil is cheap, good oil even cheaper
Ya. But you didn’t hVe the bypass type filtration installed right? So as far as this conversation goes your point kinda doesn’t make sense. Having the bypass lower micron filter installed means that when you do finally change your oil the filter ends up pulling any old contaminants out of the new/old oil.
@@Mad.Man.Marine change oil when it gets dirty. Simple as that i know a few eng builders. I change gear oil in my kx every 2 rides. Oil does breaks down and thats not a debate neither is the need for oul changes to protect the longevity of motor engines
The only way you can be sure all of the oil is clean 100% of the time is with a.good bypass filter. Im not sure which of the bypass filters is the best. There are several that clean oil. I like the big Gulf Coast filters for big hydraulic systems.For small systems the little Gulf Coast junior is as good as you can get. I like the Australian Jackmaster Classic. If I can't use paper towels or toilet paper in a filter I dont want it. I dont want any filter that opens at the bottom. I like the top loaders. I dont plan on paying 30 bucks for a small filter element as long as I can find Scott 1000. To me there is good oil that is clean and good oil that is dirty. I just put 5 gallons of Lucas hydraulic oil in the Ford tractor. I have a bypass filter for it.Dont have it on yet.The hydraulic oil operates the hydraulic system and the 12 speed manual transmission.. The Lucas was the only one Auto Zone had.that met that specification.
So that's hydraulic oil and not engine oil which are comparedly the same however the hydraulic oil isn't constantly being moved around as in like an engine a lot of it will stay in the hoses and cylinders
I have a 2005 freightliner with the mercedes engine. The original owner had the gulf coast bypass filter. I bought the truck with 1,100, 000 miles. He never did anything to the engine. It has 1,270,000 now and it's running strong. It does not burn oil. He did oil changes. I think the extra filtration helps a lot to make the engine last.
That’s the way I’d use em- not so much for these insane extended intervals, but more so just extra protection for the engine. I do believe they help alleviate wear.
I just got a truck with That engine. I’m kind of nervous because of what people say of them I’m glad someone is using one that’s been good to them. Makes me feel better lol
ANARCHY
Is that an MBE4000 engine?
Om 906?
I was a diesel mechanic in the Navy, and on the ships, there are centrifugal oil water separators that force water out of the oil. The only time oil is actually discarded is when it gets too much acidity or fuel dilution. Acidity can be dealt with, but fuel dilution is extremely dangerous. If fuel dilution gets too high, you end up with a crankcase explosion. The sumps of the engines have pressure relief covers to help prevent a catastrophic explosion. However, if the crankcase does explode, it obviously isn't something that is minor in nature. So if on a truck diesel you end up with fuel dilution, it would probably be a good idea to change your oil as a sump without vents would be a ticking time bomb. One of the schools that I went through was all about fuel and oil quality control and filtration. In that school, we were taught that oil doesn't "go bad" it simply becomes contaminated, so your statement about oil not going bad is correct according to the U.S. government.
I was gonna say my dad was an engine man in the navy and told me about those centrifuges said they would spin it out and add detergent back in this was back in the 70s
The last statement has me worried. 😂 I don't trust the government to do anything right, but hey, a broken clock is right twice a day. I lean towards agreeing with them, but engine speeds are low, and it's a much different environment in a ship engine vs. an OTR truck or car engine. Rail engines are similar; one fill for 10 years, until the next inframe.
@ChevyConQueso it depends on the engine as to how low the rpm is. If it is an LSD or LPD, then the max main propulsion engine has a max rpm of 500 due to the size. If it is one of the generators or a smaller boat's main propulsion engines, then the rpm is the same as any OTR truck. As to not trusting the government, I agree. However, they tend to be the ones that set the standards when it comes to oil. It is only the intervals of oil change that are set by manufacturers.
there are many trucks an even some Toyota landcruisers that used centrifugal filers
@harry8506 not like the ones on ships.
I run a FS 2500 bypass filter on a 2000 5.9 with 640,000 trouble free miles on it. I went 100,000 miles once on Delvac 1 synthetic. That drained oil tested fine but I could not wrap my head around going longer. I now change filters every 15,000 miles and change the oil every 30,000 miles. The bypass systems work. They work by trapping the small particles that cause engine wear. I now run Rotella T-6 5W-40 oil and use one quart every 10,000 miles. I swear by bypass systems to extend engine life.
A 24V 5.9 is my favorite diesel engine of all time!
You got the best dzl lube oil in your engine ronrdzl
Railroads tend to not change the oil in large locomotive engines. They change the filters, clean the strainers and sample it on a regular basis (they change it if the sample comes back bad, but that usually also means they have to fix something on the engine). And of course add more when it gets low. This strategy has worked fine on EMD, GE and ALCO engines for decades, but hasn't worked as well on the occasions when CAT or Cummins engines have been tried in locomotives.
I work for a Class 1 and have been told the same from mechanical department guys. Was told as well they run straight water in the cooling system with some kind of special drain that will drain the system automatically before it freezes.
As a locomotive engineer on a class 1, the engines burn and spill engine oil so fast that changing the oil would be useless 😆. As for the coolant yes basically straight water is what we use sometimes they add additives in it but in the field we just fill them back up, the engines have to be running constantly tough, they have GURU plugs to dump the water in case it gets too cold.
I believe this is the case for ships with their huge engines. Their sump holds a few thousand kgs of oil and the intention is for it to never be changed, just regular lab samples.
I thought it was interesting how they have an instrument that passes electric thru a used oil sample. The instrument is zeroed on new oil. If the reading is too high a sample goes to a lab to see why the high reading.
A marine mechanic told me that in the second to last ship he worked on, they only changed the oil once a year, but they also cleaned the inside of the engine with gasoline. No problems more than a decade.
The last boat was more modern, changed the oil more often, but didn't clean the inside "and we had to send it to the docks for repairs tree times already" he told me.
It made me think a lot at the time.
Used to work with a naval mechanic that told me medium speed and slow speed diesel engine (medium speed diesel here your engine is the size of a large pale loader, slow speed means your engine is the size of a building) never change their oil. The use centrifugal filtration to clean the oil. They will from time to time replenish additives but the oil is never changed. Alfa Laval is one of the manufacturer of those centrifugal systems.
When I was an engineer in the Navy, we never replaced lube oil, our oil purifier took out moisture and sediments.. just added make up oil for small leakage. Used purifier’s on main engines and auxiliaries.
What kind of equipment did this oil lubricate?
We have a customer with a bypass filter system on his ISX. Religiously takes oil samples and almost never changes his oil. Has had no problems with 700k so far.
Many years ago, I worked for a company that installed, long interval oil and grease systems. We put these large hi capacity filters on, then had a reservoir that held fresh oil, unit had a timer and at intervals, would inject a specific amount of old old, into the fuel tanks, and replace said oil with new oil. Also had a automatic, greasing system, which would deliver grease to, kingpins, fifth wheel, bearings in clutch, etc. It was designed to let team drivers take a new truck, and basically run it until it needed tires or something broke.
Josh my recommendation since I run bypass filters is do not change your oil schedule. The main thing that a bypass filter does is remove carbon. It really helps with the new emissions engines. That's why I sent the email showing all the carbon. Thanks for doing the video. Also one key thing is plumb your filter after the oil had gone thru the engine and turbo. Just my knowledge of using them for years.
By pass filtering can also remove some of the condensation buildup with the crankshaft pressure bypass system and it’s debatable if the micro filter does actually work some just run the bypass without the filter because the vacuum put on the bypass system from the intake would just pull it across the mesh and not give it time to absorb it but all in all will help with corrosion on your injectors and spark plugs because you’re getting cleaner air in you’re intake and releaving pressure on you’re crankcase and if you have problems with too big of a vac on the system and are pulling more oil then you were in the first place you can put a tiny hole in the system to give you’re truck a makeshift chop tune and still have the benifit of releasing the pressure on the system
That isn't actually a good idea, in the event that something fails, like your turbocharger, your engine's going to suck up all that crap instead of it getting caught by the filter first.. The oil should be filtered BEFORE it goes into the engine, not after. Not to mention that cold thick oil creates excessively high oil pressure, and you could destroy gaskets by plumbing it after the engine instead of before.
By that logic any vehicle that’s got a cpr system should have the oil filtered witch just isn’t the case
@@dat_boy_be_rolln2058 Ive used the filters for 60 years. I dont understand anything you wrote.I currently use Motor Guards Gulf Coasts a Australian Jackmaster Classic and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter converted to use 4 1/4 inch Scott 1000. Its a matter of cleaning the oil and sending it to the sump.
@@ralphwood8818 in the application I’m talking about it’s not a matter of cleaning the oil it’s about crank pressure relief you’re going to be replacing your oil every 3000 hours or so anyway so the idea of removing the particals is out of the question because the only way you’re truly going to be able to filter out that small of debris you are going to drastically decrease the flow of said fluid
I worked for a major diesel engine manufacturer for 30 years, from 1970-2001. Early in my career I got to travel to a major trucking firm who was experimenting with " no oil change for 100k miles" and they were basing that on using a centrifugal type by-pass filter. The engines were inline 6, 855 cu.in displacement, turbocharged, so you probably know what engine manufacturer I represented. Long story short, it was amazing that the engines I inspected were still running just before they were disassembled! First thung is, the fleet did not service their by-pass filters, every one of them was completely solid with filtered oil contaminates that the filters had removed from the oil before they became inoperable because of lack of servicing, so these engines ran a long time with no by-pass filtration.
Almost all piston rings were broken, the oil ring expanders were solidly locked to the oil ring if they were not broken, many upper rod bearings were broken in half across the oil hole and were worn into the steel back, main bearings were completely worn to the steel backing, injector push tube were stuck in the cam followers as they had worn themselves into the hardened sockets and injector links were totally worn out, some with 1/8" protrusions into the oil hole, upper rocker bushings were gone, the engines were basically scrap! Had the by-pass oil filters been serviced as required it would have been a different story, but how different I don't know, oils then met the applicable API specs of the day, but not as good as todays.
Diesel mechanic I know went to a 60HP Belarus farm tractor because it was smoking. He checked oil centrifuge which was chock full of solid carbon. ASked owners when was last oil change. Never changed oil and had it 10 years!! after giving it a good clean up and fresh oil it ran as one would expect
I had a100 HP tractor with centrifugal oil filter in transmission. Oil was so clean it could not be seen on dip stick, you had to feel for it!!!
When you change the big Gulf Coast filter you have to add 3 gallons of new oil. Thats why you dont normally have to drain the oil. The centrifuges I believe dont require a lot of makeup oil You have to drain it and add new oil I base that on a Honda motorcycle with a centrifuge. Engines need an amount of new oil added. ATF its a matter of keeping it clean and not over heating it.
Ronald Russell are tou from Cokumbus by chance? That's my hometown and we are proud of the company you worked for
Lived there from '70-'74.@@richardross119
Im an engineer on a tow boat. My company used to run puradyns and never change the oil unless catastrophic engine failure, or a bad sample. The goal for us on a boat engine, anything from a 3406 or a detroit 60 series up to 12 cylinder 645 emd’s it to get 40-50,000 hours on them before rebuild or replace. Ive seen a few of the older ones go 45-50,000 hours running puradynes. But my company just ditched the puradyns as the prices for those are about the same as changing the oil and filters. We havent been changing oil long enough for me to definitely tell you it’s better, but i was one advocating for it. We have a few engineers in the River division that have said nope to the company’s desire to run the puradyns and not change the oil and just changed it anyway. Those guys have had less engine failures across the board than the puradyns. There is a place for the puradyns, they are wonderful for equipment that you literally cant shut it down to drain the oil. Just close the valves to the puradyns, change them, add 1-4 gallons per filter you changed, open the valve back up. But i stand by that if you can shut it down and service it traditionally you will get longer engine life.
I remember when I was a teenager now 62 there were some log trucks still running liber- finer by pass system and I remember they would go several thousand miles after a oil change and the oil looked like you just changed it but as oil got better people quit using them I also remember mount saint Helen eruption and every log truck through away there paper air cleaner and went back to oil bath working in the volcanic ash the engines lasted longer on the oil bath. Everyone dismiss’s old tech but some of it is still relevant. Thanks for the video I always enjoy them.
We sold the oil bath as a heavy duty option The paper filters cleaned.better but the oil baths held more dirt.My tractor has an oil bath. Since I dont work under dusty field conditions I would be better off with a pleated paper filter. Im also not happy removing the air intake to open the hood.. some like to convert the oil bath to pleated paper. I have a nice Nissan diesel pleated paper filter. It sets off to the side with a hose running to it. You got me thinking. I just bought the old tractor i dug out the Datsun air cleaner today. Its slightly larger.. might need a longer band clamp.. Thanks for bring up the subject.
The tractor oil bath air cleaner was full of water and sludge. Probably never been cleaned in 40 years. The Nissan diesel air filter was a little too big. Put a Oldsmobile filter on it. The.fuel filter was half full of water and sludge.Probably the origional. When you buy a tractor that has been sitting for years in a field thats what you get. First time it started instantly and sounds strong..I tossed the fuel filter. Had a remote fiilter mount. Put a motorcraft Fl 1 A on it for the fuel.. Not sure the gravity would push the diesel thru the toilet paper. Might try it later.
When I sold my truck it had 1,128,000 miles on it. Used a bypass oil filter, Filtration System, changed the filter every 10,000 miles. Changed the oil every year. Never been inside the engine except overheads 1X a year when I changed the oil. If I was still working it, I would continue. Good system sure caused a lot of questions & comments. Thank You Sir
I use Amsol and their bypass filter that filters down to 2 microns. I use oil analysis and when I've tried to run extended drain intervals( over 20k)my Soot numbers get too high. This engine has 1.8 million miles and 800k on the bearings so I'm doing a bearing roll in. I'll email you some pictures. I can say that Amsoil increases my fuel mileage 0.3 mpg over Shell synthetic. I only run synthetic motor oils because it helps with the sub zero starts and high oil temps when pulling mountains.
Yep project farm here on YT did an independent test of oils. Amsoil and Pennzoil performed the best at cold flow...it was really eye opening
I have a Detroit 12.7L set at 600hp that I'm running an OPS bypass system on while using Rotella T6 15/40. Like you, soot is my biggest issue when trying to extend intervals. I've settled on a filter change at 15k, and then a full change at 30k. I tried a 20/40k interval in the earlier days, but my soot was at danger level by 40k.
@@ZXTrucker Paccar mx13 ,syn oil changes at 10k , filters at 30k .I noticed filters never get dirty if oil kept fresh ,as oil is the main reservoir of contaminants .
The Australian Jackmaster Classic claims 1 micron filtration if you use their elements. I use toilet paper. The Jackmaster is designed to handle the bigger core TP. The core seal at the bottom is about 1 and 15/16 inch. I have a stainless steel shim that increases it to 2and 1/4 in case the cores get bigger. All of the filters I use can handle the bigger core toilet paper. I prefer the top loaders. Frantz is obsolete now..The toilet paper changed Frantz didnt.i use toilet paper.
@@mrmotofy They are both good oils. I just bought heavy duty diesel 30 weight at Walmart.. Walmart didnt have Delo or Rotella 30 weight.. It is Super tech. The label says for off highway use. Dont drive the old tractor on the highway.
I used to wrench on cats a few decades ago. Our oil rep broke it down to the point of saying that the oil never "goes bad". What happens is that the additives breakdown and wear out. But the oil is essentially the same, as long as you dont run into problems like coolant and/or fuel dilution. That was when we were experimenting with full synthetic royal purple. But definitely the key is oil samples! You have got to know what is going on inside and how your engine is acting. Great video josh, this is one of those topics that concern me now that ive been driving for 2 and a half decades and wrenched on them almost the same time frame, i worked for a company where you would service your own truck a lot of the time. Every little bit of information on most everything you cover goes a long way in know little and not so little things to look for.
But oil does oxidize. Thats one of the parameters when you send your oil out for analysis.
And how do you explain that the viscosity gets less and less the longer you run the oil (oil samples show this)?
Ps. I have no idea why, I just know this from seeing oil samples on our fleet.
I'm assuming this was back in the 90s when alot of companies were so heavey in pushing used oil which was a joke and we all knew this was bs .
there so called evidence is not enough for me . I been a mechanic for 38 years and depending on how the engine was ran how often was it under a heavy load and so on and all of this has a factor on the internals of a engine and oil and as oil get filter your going to have to add oil at some point . this system might be ok but not changing the oil I don't agree with .
Oil breaks down and goes bad. You see the viscosity drop as the oil "sheers" due to the molecules getting chopped up-smaller molecules are generally less viscous. If you watch extreme oil change videos where people run their cars 50-100k before changing the oil, you'll see it flow out like water, then gulp out the sludge. So yes, the oil absolutely goes bad.
Another issue to consider is the additive package breaking down over time. Detergents, Viscosity stabilizers, zinc and other high pressure lubricity additives... these are all known to break down. It might be possible to lab test the oil and add the components back in, but I'd say its best to extend the interval but still do regular changes.
Exactly. A the bypass filter might reduce particulates, but it does nothing for the additives.
When you change the 3 gallon filter you add 3 gallons of new oil every 10.000 miles.That is how you get the new additives..My little filters get about a quart.of new oil when they are changed. Im not very smart but I figured it out. I must be smarter than most of you guys.
@@ralphwood8818 so what would the dilution ratio be on that? At what rate is each additive depleted? What is the current PH of the oil, especially if TBN gets low?
It's your engine, but I'd send a sample for testing and UNDERSTAND what the numbers mean.
@@Only1Shadow Im told oil analysis showed 3 gallons of new oil every 10.000 miles was more than it needed. For the numbers you would need to talk to Gulf Coast Filter Company. They do the oil analysis reports. I just change the filter and add a quart of new oil. The biggest thing I drive is a 76 F 250 with a 390 engine. Gulf Coast has a stack of oil analysis reports. I think they read them for a fee.. A NASA diesel equipment guy was asking me questions. I put him in touch with Gulf Coast. I believe they are listed as a customer now. Along with Shell Offshore and others. Shell oil was involved with the million mile truck. Im pretty sure it used Rotella 15 40 conventional. For big engines you need big oil filters. The little bypass filters are for my Ford.
@@Only1Shadow Im sure the additives were never depleted The TBN number never got too low. Being a test truck it got a lot more oil analysis reports than the average over the road truck. I know my TBN number is ok because I run at normal operating temperature enough to keep the oil dry. Weak acid will attack steel. My dipstick looks good.. The aluminum parts in the oil filters look good. I could probably spend some money on oil analysis and extend my filter changes a little more. I dont drain oil without reason. It aint rocket science.
A small Frantz toilet paper filter will work just fine to filter out wear particles. The giant Gulf filters are a pain to deal with and their proprietary filters will eat your wallet long term. Put a gauge on the input and when you see a rise in pressure replace the roll. Send in a oil analysis every 5k miles and as long as the results are good keep rollin.
I know a trucker, I mean “Truckie” from Australia who swears by these toilet roll filters.
100% frantz bypass one of the best filtration setups, even seen their setup for fuel filtration they catch all the crap and water within the toilet roll
Using a roll of t paper has been shown to allow oil to cut pathways between the layers.
Amsoil filters elements can not by bypassed.
They are great to deal with and will provide technical support via phone, or Internet .
I used to install Franz filters. Still have a new setup on the shelf. They are great for larger engines, but they can be too restrictive starving lifters for oil. Might have had to replace a set or two.
My 37 Studebaker book says its not necessary to drain the oil just change the oil filter when the oil looks dirty on the depth gauge. In those days they used cotton the same as the Luberfiner. The last time I checked the big filters such as the Luberfiner 750s used pulverized newspapers and wood chips. You can get away with a lot with gasoline engines. With diesel engines you need to know what you are doing. If you wait until the filter starts pressuring up you are screwing up. The reason the big Gulf Coast filters clean oil as good as toilet paper is they have a orifice the same size at the inlet. The oil soaks down thru 22 inches of paper towels. Similar to a gravity fed filter. The big Luberfiner 750 types the oil has to travel thru about 3 inches of pulverized newspapers. When John Frantz converted the old cartridge filters to TP the depth went from about 2 inches to 4 inches. The TP in the Jackmaster Classic got about 3/4 inch shorter feeding it with the 1/16 inch orifice. Thismeans I could go with a smaller orifice or a two port sandwich adapter such as they use for oil coolers. The Ford diesel tractor has a Perma Cool universal sandwich adapter that I got from Jegs years ago. I didnt have a Frantz two port sandwich adapter left from my old Frantz days that fit.
I'm 100% for bypass filtering, but also keeping your oil change intervals the same, maybe extended a bit.
Double safe. Incredibly well protected engine.
Can you do this on regular autos/cars?
These filters are for mechanical type people. I was putting a Frantz oil cleaner on a new 1963 Dodge pickup. His brother drove up.He said if I had known you wanted a Frantz I would have given you mine.. He said my oil is dirty and my lifters are noisy. He was asked when he changed the Frantz last. He said change it ? The guy I bought it from said it would last a lifetime. The Frantz went on his brothers car..
@@davidschulman7988 Ive done it for 60 years. Find a top loader. All I have is The little toilet paper filters. Gulf Coast juniors Motor Guards and the Australian Jackmaster Classic. I converted a flat head Ford canister filter to use Scott 1000 toilet paper.
I've been a diesel mechanic for 25 years. I manage a fleet of 37 freightliner cascadias and 2 years ago we decided to add an additional bypass filters on all of our trucks. At first I thought this is a bad idea, but I do a oil analysis every 25000 miles so I can keep an eye on it.
After doing some research I found out oil does not break down. What really happens to oil is it gets contaminated. Now that I've done this for 2 years with my fleet and have data from the oil samples I can tell you this works. My maintenance program in regards to lubrication consists of changing the bypass filter every 25000 miles and take an oil sample. On top of that I change the oil filter at the block annually. I wouldn't suggest doing this unless you intend to monitor the oil through analysis and do repairs based on your results.
That's mighty interesting. I never thought this would even be a topic of discussion.
Thank you for making such fine videos! On my 94 Pete 379 with a 3406 mechanical C I change my oil and OEM filter every 300 hrs. Ive got a bypass filter that I change every other oil change. I view a bypass filter as something to extend engine life NOT oil life. Purchasing engine oil will not hurt your bottom line but early major repairs and down time to do the repairs do.
How long an engine lasts doesnt depend on how much money you piss away on allowing the oil to get dirty then draining it. I see some are changing the Gulf Coast filter every 10.K miles. Ssme are going 20 K miles. All it amounts to is keeping the oil clean and adding enough new make up oil to keep the additives up to specs.
Worked it out within the first 5 minutes of the video, the text you screen grabbed says they have a service interval for changing their oil filters and they replace lost oil with that, overlooking the fact they admit to 1 oil change outright, i guarantee that theyre replacing/topping up oil during their service intervals for the filter that basically they are doing mini-oil changes instead of one big traditional oil change. Its simple physics
I agree with you that running bypass filtration is a good thing. Hell, I even run a bypass filter on my coolant. I also change the oil regularly (see my point below)....but I do extend a bit. Sampling is key, as you rightly point out.
However, for HEUI systems (one of mine is), the use of an HPOP usually means a high degree of molecular shearing going on which will drop the viscosity of your oil considerably. I would love to hear your thoughts on this and how that maps to greatly extended oil change intervals.
Very good point. I had an 06’ F-350 with the 6.0 for years (HEUI system), and that thing was VERY sensitive to oil.
Amsoil doesn’t shear
Wait a minute a bypass filter on your coolant??!?!! How? Which one? What type of coolant? Does it lower temps? I'm thoroughly fascinated.
I have heard that people buy fully synthetic 10w30 or 15w40 for those engines because it contains very little VII polymer. That helps it resist shear.
@@ryanthibeaux all oils shear its not up to the oil it is the environment the oil lives in that determines shear
2006 C15 Acert, I used to change my oil every 10 to 15k miles. Now I run an OPS Eco-Pur oil bypass system with Amsoil Signature Series 15w40 and I sample and change the full flow and bypass filters every 25k miles. Unlike the others the OPS has a heating element to evaporate liquid contaminates. Due to this my fuel dilution has gone from 1% before installing the system to less than .5%. (trace) after. As far as the additive package breaking down, the make up oil that gets added has been more than enough to keep the additive package at the correct levels according to my oil samples. I hope this info helps.
The centrifuge separators I've seen on old Soviet machinery is awesome. It removes particles of any size. Just replace the rotor cup periodically, or clean it if you can chip the crap out of it that compacts in and becomes like concrete.
Yes,old Zetor tractors ran forever with occasional cleaning of the centrifuge filter screen.
Just like the Spinner centrifugal units they used to sell here
wow they should have these in cars and bikes too!
My 305 65 Honda motorcycle had a chain driven centrifuge. Mack trucks used them. Not sure what the oil change intervals are. The Honda packed the sludge in hard in the steel drum. I had a Frantz oil cleaner on the Honda 500 Custom.
The Belarus tractor
The Heui system is known to shear the molecules and a filter doesn't stop that. Just changed the oil and lab it to know when
I run a bypass and lab it. It filters 10% of the full flow and is microned small enough to pull suspended soot 🤠
The filters are saturated with oil and when replaced additional oil is required. The regular oil filter is also full of oil that has to be replaced. You actually replace about a gallon of oil with each filter change. That may be helping the system to work.
Yep, a partial "spill and fill" removes some oxidized oil, replenishes VIs, replenishes additives, removes some water and fuel, and removes suspended particulate. The particulate that is in the sump oil of a bypass filtered engine isn't a problem though; it is smaller than the oil clearance of the bearings and smaller than the minimum oil film thickness so it never touches anything. Replenishing the detergents and acid buffers is what's important. The TBN of used oil eventually reaches 0 as the moisture builds up and creates acid in the oil, consuming the buffer. Replacing a fraction of the oil bumps the overall sump capacity back up to a serviceable level. The viscosity improvers are what allow an oil to be dual grade, and they get sheared up and oxidized over time. Running a straight single grade oil will be best for an engine that's bypass filtered and being pushed for a very long extended OCI. No VIs mean the grade only changes due to fuel and water dilution. The problem with straight single grade oils is how thick they are at ambient temperature. An oil pan heater and a pre-lubricator are recommended for doing this. An engine that runs at speed under load 90%+ of its lifetime won't have issues if those 2 things are installed for the odd times that it's cold started. Virtually no wear occurs when an engine is at operating temperature, under a mild load at speed above idle, and below 75% of its redline. Most of an engine's wear over its lifetime occurs at cold startup and during the periods that it's driven/used before it and its oil sump has reached full operating temp. Like, large emergency standby generators? Oh man, they get tortured to death their entire life. They sit for days or weeks at a time, and only fire up when needed or when tested. They get cranked over cold and immediately slammed up to normal operating speed and put under a modest load. :'(
How much total oil is in a system like that?
@@Grant3758 I had the system on my truck it adds approximately 2 gallons more than the original amount also you send out for analysis they can keep an eye on your oil and tell you of changes in your readings and help trouble shoot slowly progressing problems that can turn into big problems that you would not notice with regular oil changes unless it's really bad
On my Pontiac I change the toilet paper every 6.000 miles and add a quart of new oil. The wix has been on there for 63.000 miles and about 4 years i check the dipstick for problems. I dont spend money on oil analysis. I dont drain oil. The old Pontiac will out last me. Its worth about 1000 bucks. It has the Jackmaster Classic. If I see anything big on the top of the TP I will change the Wix. The big Gulf Coast filter holds 3 gallons of oil.
They call it one oil change in a million miles. The reason the engine had virtually no engine wear at a million miles is the engine isnt allowed to run on dirty oil. It probably had close to 350 gallons of new make up oil added in 1 million miles. Oil analysis showed 3.gallons of new oil added when the 3 gallon filter is changed at 10.000 miles is enough. I know some Gulf Coast filter users are going more than 10.000 miles between filter changes using oil analysis. Very misleading saying 1 oil change in a million miles.
I agree as a mechanic in the military we never changed the oil unless the analysis came by recommending change the oil.
In the USN large stationary diesels almost always had a centrifuge plumbed in as a bypass filter as well as full flow filters lube oil was only changed after fuel dilution reached 5%. I always thought fleet truck or equipment operations would benefit from plugging in a centrifuge when the engine was out of service and warm .
My Detroit 12.7 developed a head gasket oil leak at the back of the head. It uses a little more than a gallon per week. 3 years ago I installed an amsoil bypass filter and haven’t dropped the oil since, only changed full flow filters every 15k and the bypass filter as recommended at 120k, So every week it gets a fresh gallon and every 15k it gets it gets a little over two fresh gallons of new oil plus another 2 about every year when the bypass is changed. I have not done sampling and have had my fingers crossed about fuel contamination but I’ve made it to 850k and am not opposed to rebuilding or replacing at this point anyway. I installed the bypass at 532k.
I have installed around 25 of those filters on otr trucks. Each time you service the filter you end up adding 2 or so gallons of fresh oil. This adds detergent packs back into the oil. filter elements are actually paper towels with a sock type material over it. If I remember right, bounty fits best. Also, a 60 series actually requires a full oil change at some point. I think they recommend 300k. Been a while. You also send a sample for tests each service. Main filter gets changed every 30k I think. I don't remember there ever being an issue on those rigs. Pretty good system.
They didnt use the sock covering when I sold them. I think the sock covering was started because a lot of people worry about tissue migration. Personally if I had concerns I would get a remote filter mount for a secondary spin on filter.and get Bounty big roll papertowels. The Australian Jackmaster Classic has the TP in a sock. My diesel tractor uses a Perma Cool Universal sandwich adapter. The clean oil from the flat head Ford canister filter toilet paper conversion goes to the inlet of the full flow filter. When Dune Buggies and Hot VWs tested the Motor Guard toilet paper filters in the 60s they put an inline fuel filter in the return line. They needed it to cut open and check for fibers. They found none. In reality all it amounts to is keeping the oil clean and adding enough new make up oil to keep the additives up plus to dilute the soot that is too small to be filtered out. The million mile truck I guestimate gets about 350 gallons of new Rotella in a million miles just on makeup oil at filter changes..
@@ralphwood8818 they seem to be a good filter setup. I have pondered putting something like that on my old crane truck hydraulic system.
@@battleaxefabandmachine I havent sold them in 20 years. About the first thing people ask is wont the toilet paper clog up the oil system.The Jackmaster Classic has the element in a fabric cover and claims 1 micron filtration.Remove the cover and you find a very firm roll of Australian toilet paper. The big Luberfiner 750 filters used pulverized newspapers the last time I checked. They had a secondary strainer in the core. The rolled paper gets stronger in oil. I recently bought a 79 Ford diesel tractor.with a loader. Did the engine. My next project is finding out where to add hydraulic fluid. I built the system on the Farmall H. It has a big spin on primary filter and a little Gulf Coast junior secondary filter on the hydraulics. Dont see any way to put a bypass filter on the hydraulics on the Ford..Had to go on TH-cam to find out how to operate the Ford. Two gear shifts and 12 speeds. 3 point hitch controls. I need a book.
@Ralph Wood nice. Yeah I need to find a single element one
@@battleaxefabandmachine I put the single roll Gulf Coast O-1 filters on the big hydraulic systems at Safety Kleen. I also did the yard mules with O-1s and the other engines with toilet paper filters O-1 juniors. I put the Gulf Coast junior filters on the Cummins 5.9 on the Fire pump and the 4 cylinder Cummins Sky Trac. The junior could handle a pretty big hydraulic system. The Cummins engines didnt get used enough for the big filters.
Natural Gas compression. We run engine oil 15k hours plus. Sample every 30 days, filter changes every 4300 hrs. This is on 3600 series engines. I know natural gas fuel is very clean to begin with, but the additives are oil additives are still there even after that much run time. And the more they run, the lower oxidation, moisture contamination and TAN stay. Great video!
I'm a firm believer in centrifuge oil filtration, if it's good enough for ships, and large diesel power systems (my experience), also for truck engines, stock on PACCAR MX13, optional for Cummins X15.
I've been running bypass filters since the 1960s. They extend the engine life or periods between overhauls. My experience is mostly marine Detroit Diesel 2 cycles. I owned commercial fishing vessels, tugs and a long line of pleasure boats. Engines I ran with bypass filters compared to the same model run by others just about doubled the life between overhauls. I did all the overhauls. Rarely did I ever have to recondition a crank or cam. The bearings were replaced with standard bearings. I was originally was trained on aircraft piston engines, so every surface was mic'd and recorded. I also ran 2 micron fuel filters because of all the parts in a mechanical Detroit injector. I did oil tests yearly.
I'm retired, live on a large yacht with twin Detroits. I use a standalone centrifuge now. The oil never gets black, always semi-transparent. The engines were built in 1947, rebuilt once by me 11 years ago. Having clean fuel means I haven't changed an injector since the rebuild.
Being an independent owner operator with one truck and a limited budget I would be extremely scared to put this on my truck because I can't just wipe out 15k if my B model cat goes kaboom.
I used to work for a large equipment company with their own fleet of trucks, and they ordered their last batch of trucks with mechanical 3406’s with centrifugal bypass filters, in conjunction with the factory Cat full flow filters. At a 12,000 mile oil change interval, those centrifugal filters were collecting over a half inch layer of heavy sludge in their collector basin. They started extending their oil change intervals to 18,000 miles, and included cleaning out the centrifugal system at the half life of the oil. It worked out well for them.
@@jameskratzer2014 ah cool thanks for the info I honestly wondered how much sludge was in the bottom of my pan with the recent inframe I just had 🤔
One reason the big Gulf Coast filter works with no oil drains is it takes 3 gallons of new oil at filter change. Thats every 10.000 miles with the million mile engine.oil analysis showed that was more new oil than needed. My experience is a centrifuge on a motorcycle. I dont think they require enough makeup oil.
Had this system on my last truck. 2001 Freightliner 12.7l Detroit. 1.5 million miles before liner and piston in #1 went poof. Only changed oil when oil sample showed it needed it. Best memory was 5 or 6 over its lifetime.
I use by pass filters all the time but I still change my oil on a normal schedule…I run them for the times I may pass my scheduled change and/or just for a extra safety….You talked about fuel dilution, fun fact the P51 mustang (along with other planes of the time) use to dilute engine oil with gasoline via a switch inside the plane to thin the oil for cold starts…I study plane mechanics and maintenance because I believe they one up the standard mechanic in maintenance and standards in some ways…
Did the engine oil never get up to operating temp? I know on small single cylinder engines fuel dilution decreases horsepower considerably.
I always stay up with Aviation technology. They always get the new stuff that comes out then it filters down to other industries years later.
Wow..maybe i should try this mustang p51 technique on my 1200cc bike
I read somewhere that they flipped a switch and injected water in the intake on the fighter planes for extra climbing power. Any of you guys ever heard of the old FAA and PMA approved AeroFrantz filters.. They used toilet paper. Saw some on crop dusters north of Sedan Kansas in the early 1980s.. Read a few oil analysis reports on light aircrafts.
@@fidelcatsro6948 don't do that!
I run a 2007 LBZ Duramax w/ FS-2500 oil bypass - Filter cartridge is 2mU. I also use a PPE Hi efficiency Filter @98% efficient collecting 10-20mU particulate. I do filter changes every 50-60,000 kilometres & Oil every 100,000 kms. I do similar with my fuel filtration (FASS) typically change those every 25 -30,000 kms.
Filtration = Longer life.
I wouldn’t try it myself. But as long as it never overheats or gets contaminated by coolant. I can definitely see the benefit. Really interesting. Thanks for bringing attention to this
I used to work for Roadway express. They had the Web system that dripped 1quart of oil into the fuel tank every 350 miles. Theory was by adding fresh makeup oil it replenished the additive package. They never changed the oil just filters at 25,000 miles. Plenty of engines with a million miles
I’ve never ran em on any of my trucks. I kinda wish I had, but I didn’t keep trucks long enough to see how well they’d work. I will say this (keep in mind this is WOM, not my personal experience), if you have a traditional spin on oil filter- between it and the bypass filter, you’re putting in close to a gallon of fresh oil every time you change those filters (replacing lost oil from the filter changes), so in a sense, you’re doing a full oil change every so often anyways. Obviously it’s a lot cheaper than replacing it all at once, but I’m making the point for those that worry about stretching the old oil too long.
Ive used toilet paper filters for 60 years. Its a matter of keeping the oil clean and adding enough new motor oil to keep the additives up. With the test truck its 3 gallons of new oil added when the 3 gallon Gulf Coast filter is changed every 10.000 miles. The full flow filters are also changed at 50.000 miles. With my small engines its 1 quart. Very misleading to say one oil change in a million miles. The system doesnt work with small filters.
@@ralphwood8818 yeah, that’s my thing with em. I’d heard one gallon, but 3 is even more obviously. Either way, you’re basically changing the oil anyways, so I don’t necessarily buy the hype of extended drain intervals. But I do think the bypass filter might still be a good purchase, just for extra cleaning.
@@thetowndrunk988 Its a matter of keeping the oil clean and adding enough new oil. The million mile truck got a lot more oil changes than one. Over 300 gallons added in a million miles when the big 3 gallon filter is changed isnt one oil change.it looks like the old Ford diesel tractor I just bought will burn a quart of oil in a days work. I probably wont need to drain the oil or change the bypass filter very often. It uses Scott 1000 in a converted Ford Flat head canister filter..
The old Ford tractor fooled me. Thought I had an oil burner. Didnt give the oil time to drain out of the bypass filter..If I only check it when its cold it reads full.. Not used to anything newer than a 51 Farmall H . This 79 Ford has a lot of features. I have depth filters on everything now except the coolant.
Hi from the uk
Many years ago when I was a truck mechanic I worked on some cummins engined trucks with by pass filters. No tests were done but back in the 80s it was reckoned that you could double your milage between oil changes. They make claims about moisture? That shouldn't happen as the truck shuld be up and running for long enough to stay at operating temperature long enough to evaporate any moisture. Yes you are right oils do break down around 250F or 140C and the additive package that makes the oil what it is deteriorates from the first time you start the engine.
Yes by pass filters are good news but oil analysis will let you know when it's time to change but you have to be selective about who dose the analysis as the cheep ones only look at soot loading and the next level look at metallic content when it is the actual oil that needs to be checked for its viscosity change and additive depletion
Keep up the good work
but oils break down, theyre polymer chains n they slowly get broke down n dont do their job anymore... i mean their just simply isnt any way around that...
It's cool to hear a smart mechanic confirm things that I've thought of on my own, being a lil diy mechanic
I definitely trust a product from a website that looks like it's from 1995 👍 😂 The only thing missing is some fancy clipart text.
There's a lot more that happens to oil then just particle contamination - fuel dilution, mechanical shear, oxidation from heat - a filter can't deal with any of that.
Oil changes will always be the cheapest and best insurance for an engine.
I do not trust the flashy websites that are clearly scams built by good programmers.
I change oil and filter 14 to 15k. Have a cat c-15. 10k years back. Maybe not so important now with oil analysis, you could find something on the plug or in the drained oil that shouldn’t be there. Same with draining transmission or rears. It has worked for me for 48 years and counting.
In reality the reason the Gulf Coast.filter system works is it cleans oil and is big. The engine gets enough new oil because you add 3 gallons of new oil when you change it .The Road King article said changing the big filter every 10 K miles is equal to a full oul change every 40.000 miles. The system wont work with a little filter or with a engine problem like coolant contamination.The system requires some common sense. There is a shortage of common sense.I would think you would have to make adjustments for different conditions. The truck.is an over the road truck. A heavy duty wrecker in Fairbanks Alaska would be different.
Allowing the oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it will never be a good insurance program
I've seen an engine run for ages where it was a completely self contained unit. Absolutely no oxygen coming from outside. It's exhaust was plumbed back into the intake and the oil was in the exact same condition it was what it was 1st put into the engine. No contamination to the oil. Impressive.
Say what
I call BS
The gravity drive on my Jeep still has the original oil in it too. A round trip to Mars and back takes only 30 minutes. 👌😂🤪
Large ships such as container or freight ships operate using a fill-once lifetime oil, and then clean and process it thoroughly over the life of the ship.
really wow! i didnt know that.. i thought they did oil changes like cars too..wow..i shoud try that on my bike!
@@fidelcatsro6948 There was a Motor cycle club atound San Jose California. That had Frantz toilet paper oil filters on their Harleys in the early 60s I found out about them.. Seems like it was the Ridge Runners. I had a Frantz oil cleaner on my Honda 500 Custom. I converted the canister full flow to a Ford spin on. Used a Frantz sandwich adapter for pressure to the Frantz. I tapped a plug similar to a valve adjusting plug for a clean oil return. Hung the Frantz upside down back by a saddle bag. Good bike.The Harleys had the Frantzs bolted to the foot rest. It would take a Harley guy to install one.
I worked for roadway express and they used a system made by WEB. It dripped a quart of oil into the fuel tank every 350 miles. Theory was makeup oil replenished all the additives. Never changed the oil. Changed filters at 25,000 miles. Had many of the 2,000 linehaul trucks exceed a million miles. Saved big on oil disposal costs.
The truck I learned to drive on was a cabover KW with a small cam cummins. It had a luberfiner bypass filter on it that we changed at every oil change. I'm not sure if it was factory installed, aftermarket or an option. We never had any problems with that engine due to lubrication. In fact we ran it for over 800,000 miles with a camshaft lobe that had been dressed by hand through the side of the block (on the shoulder of I-10 in Mississippi) after a cam roller pin broke and flatten the peak. My Dad used a dressing stone made for bench grinder wheels to reform the lobe going far below the hardness layer. I would say that's a pretty good indication that the oil was doing it's job and that the filter was removing any particulates coming off the camshaft. I own 5 trucks now none of which have a bypass system and I have seen damage from lack of lubrication a few times. I would say it couldn't hurt to install one of these but keep the regular oil change interval or even double it. At least on ISX engines that carbon foul the oil very very quickly.
I know carbon packing is really bad with ISX engines. Having a bypass filter will clean most of the carbon out of the oil. Because the oil is always so clean, the detergents can remove all the build up carbon inside the engine and prevent any carbon from forming.
Worked for a guy that wouldnt start a engine until it had a Luberfiner installed. I cut open a Luberfiner element and found it packed with cotton waste with cotton plant pieces. I think Wix Fleet Guard and Luberfiners mostly use pulverized newspapers and wood chips now. The Big Gulf Coast filters have the economical refills the design of the filter makes the oil travel thru 22 inches of media. With the Luberfiner types the.oil has to travel thru about 3 inches. My 41 Dodge car came with a cotton filter the same as the Luberfiners. I was looking for a 8 n Ford tractor. Ended up with a small Ford diesel. I converted a Flat head ford canister filter to use Scott 1000 toilet paper and installed it. Opened it up today to see how it is working. Its doing fine but the toilet.paper has cracks in it which means water. Hopefully its just a little condensation.The oil isnt milky. Many years ago when I was a little younger i climbed up into WHITE Csb over.I thought this is the biggest truck.ive ever been in. I started driving in an old international with a Cummins. It had a lever on the engine that someone pulled while you started it. 220 Cummins ? I use toilet paper in toilet paper filters. I use paper towels in paper towel filters. You can pay 30 bucks for high quality elements for toilet paper filters. Rather than putting the towels in a bag I would install a secondary filter like a little spin on filter. and use Bounty big roll like the origionals.if I had concerns about tissue migrarion.
This has been tried for 40+ years, Caterpillar even sells engines with bypass filtration factory installed.
That being said they still recommend scheduled OCI.
The bypass filtration is to help extend OCI, NOT eliminate them.
The frac industry is littered with failed 3512C engines due to customers having engines equipped with 250hr oil pans and pushing their OCI to 1500-2000 hr.
I believe it's possible with a small engine such as the lower HP C15 on-highway, being driven every day to make the claim they've made, but I wouldn't advise it.
Bypass filtration works, but it's not a substitute for OCI .
I quit draining oil in 1963 by using filters that clean oil and Delo W30. Multi grades were no good in 1963. I dont believe they could be used in a diesel.The polymers didnt hold up.They fouled hot engine parts..My oldsmobile diesel book said you could use multi grades in an emergensy until you could get 30 weight. Some engine makers said if you used 10 40 it would void the warranty..The reason being they had too many polymers. One reason I used Delo W 30 was with toilet paper filters it was golden. One time I replaced a head gasket and changed the oil on the Rambler American. Its a little risky telling people they wont need to change the oil with proper filtrstion.
It was common in the 60s for the engines to be so sludged up a filter that cleaned oil could reach its capacity in less than 50 miles. I would notice the filter not heating up. I would open the engine and clean out the sludge. Told my uncle he had a choice we could open the engine and clean it or change the Frantz every 50 miles. He traded the 59 Ford in on a new 63 Dodge pickup.
Normally the factory installed filters are not good enough to be a threat to the oil change program. That takes a big filter with a lot of depth such as the big Gulf Coast filters.
Awesome objective evaluation Josh. Very interesting cons and pros on both sides. I would guess a by pass system and bigger intervals at oil changes are the best. Cheers Josh. Always look forward to your Sunday videos man. Sorry no destruction yet. LMAO.
Hi Jeri, thanks for watching and always leaving a nice comment.
I worked at a factory that made bearing seals. The hydraulic oil in the machines was 50 years old. They had a filter cart with 2 filters that were 8" round and 3 feet long they would filter the oil until the cart wasn't in by-pass in the morning. Then go to the next machine.
Very interesting idea... I have been thinking about adding one of these oil bypass systems on my C15, so good to hear that you are onboard with the idea...seems to make sense, to me.
Thanks for the great content and have a Happy Thanksgiving!
I’d recommend the idea. I left quite a comment about my experience. SpeedCo cost me 100$$$ instead of 3000$. That was 2019 when I sold the truck.
Look at the fs2500 system. It's a good filter
We have been running GCF for over 20 years it works well
FYI the replacement filter are two rolls of bounty paper towels
Are new equipment are getting Eco pure filter
From Pittsburgh power
We oil sample every 25 k
When I sold them they used Bounty. I believe Scott Paper company used them on tug boats. I wonder what paper towels they used. A lot of Scott 1000 toilet paper goes in our little filters.
It would be interesting to know the load & load cycle on the million mile engine . A friend has a c-18 cat in a boat that is set at 1200rpm & 450 hp & it has 60, 000 hrs on it . Pretty remarkable!!
I am guessing turning a prop is definitely easier than climbing a hill at 80K pounds.
@@trentallman984 agreed. Sounds like an extremely low load situation.
I put a 1600 Nissan engine in a small boat.The stock propeller wouldnt let the engine get out of an idle. Im thinking how much power does it take to turn a little propellar. The boat came with a junk 2.5 4 cylinder chevy engine. I have a Skeeter bass boat that a guy traded a Harly Davidson for. The owner took him and his wife around the lake and it ran perfect. He didnt know how to back a trailer. His wife was laughing at him. Finally got it in the water. It started cutting out. He brought it back home. It set out in the weather for over ten years.175 Johnson Stainless prop. Needs new gauges. My daughter said you can get it running. I told her I would slide off the boat and make a car hauler out of the trailer.. She said no and ordered me a shop manual. Still in her ex husbands name..He signed the title.
60.000 hrs. I just bought a 79 Ford diesel tractor Its a little rough . Been out in the weather a long time. It seems like new mechanically. It has 1550 hours on the meter Got my TP filter on it. The oil they recommend is no longer available..
@@trentallman984 Not really, its harder pulling a prop, it never goes “down hill” per say. Its like the engine is always pulling. Also their is no transmission.
I worked on a couple of companies that trialled this . Some worked well .. some not so much .. but I've always been hugely impressed with the scania spinner filters .. would get to its service interval and the old oil still wouldn't even be be black . Didn't even seem worth changing it . Amazing for a standard set up .
Have the Amsoil system on my 96 Dakota Almost 500k on it now. But it burns enough oil that it's pretty much getting a constant progressive oil change at all times.. LOL
I use bypass oil filtration on my F350. The oil stays clear of soot, the only reason ive found to change my oil is when the oil loses its TBN and the anti-wear properties in the oil. Ive found one oil change per year suits me fine, prior to installing the bypass filter, my recommended oil change intervals were about once every 3 to 4 months.
When I ran a fleet of over 40 trucks, mainly 3406E, 14.6 C15s, and Acerts, I could get 20k out of every engine except Acerts. They would soot out the filter about 18,000 miles and plug filters. Once I was able to delete actuators, we could run higher intervals. I ran several types of oils as an experiment and never found any advantages of synthetics in the crankcase. Delo was the winner cost,versus intervals. I've overhauled multiple engines in the last 25 years that have had those bypass, never change the oil for reasons other than oil related problems and can say there was never really any significant change on internal parts between conventional intervals/oils. However, engines that had Lucas additive always had a gummy, nasty film inside. And the bearings always looked worse. Just thought I would chime in.
Thank you for your input.
Back in the 60s I could squeeze the inlet end of the toilet paper and soot would come out. Squeeze the other end and clear oil would come out.. No one had to tell me the toilet paper could remove soot.with these newer gasoline cars its hard to tell the difference. I can see the top of the paper getting black before the bottom on the diesel tractor. It has the flat head Ford V8 canister filter modified to take a roll of Scott 1000..John Frantz got his start adapting the canister bypass filters to take superior toilet paper. I improved on the design.
I remember that million mile truck. I was talking about it about 1996. Paul Abelson Senior Field editor for Road King Magazine asked me for the truck owners phone number. They did an article on it October November 1996. The one oil change was someone forgot to tell a mechanic not to dispose of the oil it was a test truck. Its a little misleading to say the oil isnt being changed the Bounty Big roll paper towels are changed every 10.000 miles and adds 3.gallons of new Rotella. At 50.000 miles he also changes the full flow filters and adds 5.5 gallons. That is 17.5 gallons of new oil every 50.000 miles or the equivalent of an oil change every 40.000 miles. I believe Shell was involved in the measuring the parts. I stopped draining oil in my cars in 1963 using Delo 100 W 30 and a Frantz oil cleaner All I use now is the Gulf Coast the Motor Guard and a Jackmaster Classic. I did convert a flat head Ford V8 bypass filter to use Scott 1000 TP and put it on a Ford diesel tractor. I made a modification to the Jackmaster Classic. I drilled out the outlet orifice and added a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet to get it to heat up. Its the same as the Peterbilt except I add 1 quart at filter change instead of 3 gallons. I believe it was a Shell engineer that said its not unusual. For these Detroit engines to go a million miles but not be in near new condition. The advantage of the Gulf Coast system is the oil is never allowed to get dirty. Road King also did an article on Amsoil and a 3 gallon Como filter. With that system the oil eventually has to be drained usually 50 or 60.000 miles. The Detroit didnt have a million miles on it when Road King did the article.It was less than 750.000 miles. I lost track of it at over a million miles when I quit selling oil filters. Always wondered what happened to it. Gulf Coast filters has their filter elements in a bag now. Some people still use Bounty. One guy says he gets his big roll paper towels from Costco. That truck is old news. There are several others now using the same system.
The company I work for has just introduced a bypass filter on the QSX15 we use. We're currently in a testing phase to see how far we can take them.
Please, report back your results if possible. Very appreciated.👍
When I started using bypass filters in 1963 you couldnt use multi grades in a diesel. Delo came in 30 and 20 weight..The discount stores sold it for about 29 cents a quart. In those days the only filters that cleaned oil were the Frantz and Motor Guard..For diesels you had the Frantz 3 stacker. Motor Guard had manifolded filters..oil is a lot better now. All I use now is 50 year old Motor Guards a few modified Motor Guard compressed air filters Some Gulf Coast juniors and a flat head Ford canister filter adapted to use Scott 1000.Also the Australian Jackmaster Classic. I prefer the top loaders.
I can see a system that will work. 35 years ago I worked for Ruan Leasing and they had a push on to build a million mile truck, the called a MEGA truck. Remember this was still in mechanical days, and 500,000 mile rebuilds were still a thing. Web had a system that would eject an ounce of oil into the fuel tank on a timer, and a level sensor that would add oil when the level got low automatically. The oil was never changed just the filters. We sampled everything and never had an issue. But the oil was BLACK. I know this isn't the same thing but kinda in the same vein. With all the clean burn technology in the engines today, it seems that better filtration and maybe adding some additives back in along the way would work. But of course the oil companies make money selling oil, so I doubt they will ever support such a program.
I remember that truck Ruan had i think it was a cab over Ford prime mover,they were trying to build a bullet proof truck here in Australia as well it was TNT Express kenworth SAR with silver 8v92 and 7 speed spicer,all mechanical truck,no air bags no electronics,air start.They had a truck on express that didnt need servicing,it had a oil tank that feed the sump and would suck oil from sump to fuel tank to be burnt off,self adjusting brakes and auto greaser
@@craigduffield3963 Yep, same thing, the grease would drip onto the shop floor haha
I would love to see a comparison from a independant lab between the internals of three exact types of engines. One with a bypass oilfilter, one with a coolent prewarming bypass waterpump (which is also heating up the engine to a certain degree before starting) and one is stock, after let's say 100000 miles under the exact external conditions (with the bypassoilfilter engine would be the only one without an oilchange, the others accordingly to the manual) , but that would be extremely expensive and therefore not be happening.
There was a system that injected engine oil in the fuel and replaced that oil with fresh oil, a little at a time. The idea came from a study (long ago) in heavy mining equipment. They had fleets of haul trucks where they allowed (small leaks) leaks on a portion of them (engine oil, gear lube, and hydraulic oils), but they kept the other units leak free. They found that the haul trucks with leaks had a longer service life, which is essentially the same as more frequent service intervals... or just replacing a small amount lubricant at regular intervals between services.
It’s called oilmate it was originally a Cummins product but I think they make it for all engines it works pretty good on non emission engines not so good with DPFs and other equipment now.
I hate that so much, but the logic is sound so long as the leaks don't introduce excessive contamination.
@@kingduck3192 Thank you for the reminder on that system. I can see how it would cause problems on the emissions engines.
I have heard of that system. I would think it would require a good bypass filter to keep from pumping abrasives into the injection system. Many years ago some cars had a tank of new oil The oil lubricated the engine then went on the road. Might get you in trouble on paved roads.
I have an old car advertisement book. They had tires with a written guarantee to go 5.000 miles. Detroit had a bunch of electric car companies.
Does the bypass filter remove fuel contamination? Diesel fuel is a much better lubricant than gasoline. I don't think a gasoline engine could get away with this.
Gasoline is easily removed by the heat and the PCV.. In the old days of mechanical fuel pumps a leaky fuel pump could put gasoline in the oil faster than it could evaporate. My Ford F 250 Ranger with the 390 has toilet paper filters on everything. The Motor Guard on the engine is over 50 years old..
I didn't read all the comments, but the following wasn't mentioned in the video. Another point to consider is when the oil filter is changed, the oil within the filter and that runs out while changing the filter, will need to be replaced with new oil. This could compensate for contaminates keeping unfilterable contaminates to a minimum for quite a while.
Bypass systems work extremely well, but it’s not an excuse to neglect your engine. Using frequent oil analysis is absolutely key to monitor these things like wear metals and coolant and fuel contaminations. One thing you did not mention was the use of oil bypass systems in conjunction with a high quality synthetic motor oil. The really high quality synthetics, such as Amsoil are far more resistant to those heat ranges. You can run oils like Amsoil at 250° all day long and never hurt it, while inferior oils will definitely suffer from thermal breakdown from even short periods of time over 270°. A place that we really see a benefit with the extra filtration actually makes HEUI Systems operate smoother. Because the fuel injectors operate from high-pressure oil, the cleaner the oil is the smoother the injector operates, you’ll actually see better fuel economy with a quality synthetic oil that is super filtered in these applications. We also have fleets of trucks that have noticed by using a bypass system with our high-quality Amsoil diesel oil, have seen a significant decrease in DEF consumption. Also consider that would be your top offs counteracting fuel dilution. He will also be adding more oil to the system when changing out the filters. And with the bypass filter system on a heavy duty truck you’re usually adding at least an additional gallon to the total capacity. I could go on for days.
My dad put a Amzoil bypass on a Briggs & straton engine. Used for power washing. 20 years ago. He changed the oil 2 times because the oil analysis came back with where metals a little high. The first time the second time was because he hadn't changed his air filter. After that. He would change air filter every year. That Briggs lasted 2.5 time longer than the mfg suggested life of engine. Every thing I own has Amzoil in it.
All of my small engines use either the Motor Guard or Gulf Coast filters and Walmart synthetic. The Craftsman got its first oil change in 20 years because I messed up and put a electric fuel pump on instead of the proper pump. Ended up with a crankcase full of gasoline. It had Mobil 1 in it. These big engine people are talking about stuff I know nothing about. When i was working I did yard mules lift trucks and all small stuff. Which reminds me I have a Gulf Coast jr equipped generator I havent ran in awhile.
Amsoil has good lubricants. They have no filters that can compete with the depth filters.such as toilet paper or paper towels. Amsoil will increase in viscosity like other oils if you run it too hot. All I have used is the 10 40..Stopped in Salt Lake City and got a Frantz oil cleaner and Amsoil from a Frantz Amsoil dealer for a 79 or 80 Honda Civic..Salt Lake City with no AC she didnt over heat the oil. What were they thinking when they came up with that dual remote system.Road King Magazine did an article on Amsoil and a 3 gallon Como filter.in a series 60 Detroit. What the hell is a Como filter l
I owned one of these and went to 500000 with no oil change. I changed the brand bypass to an OPS1 bypass. GCF states that when you change the bypass filter you have to add up to 2 gallons of make up oil. I really liked their device but it was large and very messy to change. One reason I went to the OPS system. Theirs you only have to spin a filter off and on. One thing none of the bypass filter companies tell you is that they DO NOT filter out diesel fuel from the oil. So if you have a bad injector you are still going to have to change your oil every 10 to 15k until you get the problem fixed. And for sure you better be doing oil analysis if you are going to use one of these.
I wonder what is the difference in cost between the oil analysis and actually changing the oil?
Good.question.They know the oil is good. They are checking for engine problems. With my cars I dont drain oil but I know how to read a dipstick and read the roll of toilet paper. I know what clean oil looks and feels like.Also I normally buy cars that look like they have been taken care of and usually have a lot of miles on them.To most taken care of means changing the oil.To me taken care of means using a filter that cleans oil.
When working for Weyerhaeuser we installed a couple of centrifugal type bypass filters to see if we could extend oil change intervals. I was amazed at the amount of carbon that they collected from the oil! Probably about 2-3 lbs of solid carbon in 3,000 miles! The did look cleaner as far as being black. Oil samples showed less impurities in the oil also. But Weyerhaeuser didn’t start using them for some reason.
This is quite interesting ! We had a Powerscreen screening plant with a Deutz 4 cyl turbo , it had a toilet paper looking filter called Kleenoil bypass filtration system. It seemed to work good. Currently my 2012 International dump truck has the infamous maxxforce 13, I run rotella T6 and change it every 500 hours. With so much egr and soot , I’m wondering if I wouldn’t be long blowing it up even with a bypass. Also being a dump truck I’m in dusty conditions frequently. My take is, maybe a non emission engine , that’s on the highway at operating temperature, little dust, the bypass idea would work better ?
The bypass specifically is a truly great idea for engines with EGR systems. The EGR puts carbon particules into the oil and the bypass removes the larger problematic ones. It also removes dust, dirt, etc. In my opinion any engine that uses hydraulic unit injectors that use high pressure engine oil as the high pressure hydraulic fluid should always have a bypass filter. The unit injectors are incredibly sensitive to contamination.
Any filter that looks like toilet paper or paper towels is a good filter. When I started you had Frantz and Motor Guard. For diesels you had Frantz 3 stackers and manifolded Motor Guards. I cant keep up with all the good ones now. Some are too expensive for me. I get my filter elements from Walmart.
What I have heard from users of oil bypass systems is that while you don't do an actual full oil change, when you change the bypass filter (some have said they don't change the oem filter) you have to add a quart or two of oil. From their oil analysis it seems that the oil added makes up for the additives that have been used up between filter changes.
They make the claim with a series 60 😂 those leak enough oil that by the time they hit 50k there isn't any original oil left in it
Nah. I run this bypass system. There’s also CATs and Cummins that can claim the same
Lol
@@ScootertheMover it's was a joke...a joke. Damn
Had a yard mule at work with a 2 cycle Detroit.The boss said I cant have leakijg oil in the yard. I cut about 6 inches from a 55 gallon drum put some kitty litter in it and tied it under the engine. Anyone need a diesel mechanic.?
I worked for a fleet that ran the spinner centrifuge system and every oil change there was probably 1/4 to 1/2” solid on the outside edge paper. We still changed the oil at regular intervals but I think they were worthwhile
The reason the centrifuges dont work for this system is they dont require enough makeup oil. You still have to drain the oil and add make up oil. All it amounts to is never allowing the oil to get contaminated and adding enough new oil to keep the additives up to specs.
This is scary no oil changes
Amsoil has bypass filter systems along with oils and lubes.
I've used their oils and filtration systems, both on my own and my customers machines.
They test their stuff and have it tested by independent labs.
I remember in the early 80s Amsoil had a canister filter that might have.been as good as toilet paper. They had Bobby Unser saying this oil change is forever. The filters arent so good now. That dual remote system is a joke. They have good lubricants. Saw on TH-cam a guy was talking about Amsoil saving money. He poured more money in the fuel tank than I spend on oil in a year.
My local hydraulic shop sells a filter with mount/thread plate AN fitted and braided hose for under 120$ I’m definitely trying that.
On EMD railway engines, it’s normal to not replace the oil unless it becomes contaminated. 4x a year oil samples to detect it.
They use those EMDs on off shore drilling rigs. I believe Shell offshore uses Gulf Coast filters on them.
I run an Amzoil bypass on my Isuzu pup powered Ford ranger. Can't say it extends out my oil changes that much because the engine had unknown miles when I did the swap and seems to cruddy the oil up retty quick....But the logic is sound and cant hurt keeping this old diesel running longer. Love your channel:)
Lots of newer engines oil stay at 180 to 200 that over the 150. I put a centrifugal bypass on my daily i have really enjoyed it especially scraping the crud out. They use centrifugal filters on big ships for oil and fuel there engines costs a lot more so i tryed it.
Actually some of us have been running on clean oil before. There were synthetic oils. Diesel engines required single weight oil. When I started in 1963.. most dlscount stores had Standard Delo 100 20w and 30w for about 29 cents a quart.
Some of our railroad track construction equipment have “kidney loop filters” on the hydraulics. They seem to way cleaner when we do a pm service, and generally have less pump failures.
I used to work for a fleet in the 90's that used a DOC system which consisted of a solenoid actuating a plunder that injected 2 oz oi engine oil in to the fuel return line/ It was worked out to need around a gallon of oil on every tank of fuel, sometimes a little more than a gallon. Every time the driver would fill up he had to add oil. When we did pm's, we didn't drain the oil just changed the filters. Removing a valve cover was a gunk filled experience
Correct! But very few want to hassle with installation.
Thank you for your video and review! James Sims Manufacturer of Gulf Coast Filters since 1980. Retired 2012 and without a doubt stand behind bypass filtration.
Got into a debate with a guy on a trawler forum..He said bring your wife down to Canaveral I will take you on a tour and we can talk about filters. I called Charlie Sims. I said send someone to talk to this guy. He said who is it i said it is a NASA diesel equipment engineer. He needs to talk to someone about big engines. I see NASA is a customer now. They were moving the shuttle then.
I had an experience with a specialized machine that had an Onan genset to power the machine up to 22 hours a day. With 15w40 conventional oil the oil got changed every 300 hours of operation. After I got the boss to buy 5w40 synthetic, the oil was changed every 600 hours. The real benefit was an 18% increase in fuel economy. While the synthetic seemed less gritty and slicker after double the hours. A fancy bypass oil filter is a smart idea. Since each of these systems filter the oil to be like new oil. And synthetic has less breakdown and cooking of the oil.
I left that job after 6 years. But a friend that stayed with the company. Told me that after the engine had over 20K hours. Another identical machine that had around 10k hours. But used the standard 15w40 oil. Was worn out by that time. The 20k hour machine was checked by the Onan rep. He stated the engine was like new! Of course, radiators, water pumps and other accessories were replaced several times. But the base engine was in great shape!
So the point is, use good synthetic oil, filter it the best you can. And change it at some regular interval. The engine will likely live long longer and cost less to operate than the design specs.
Overhauled an ISX years ago that went 1.4 million running gulf coast filters and oil change every 150k, new gulf coast filters every 50k or so. Engine looked good and still ran great, main reason for overhaul was oil leaking out of the back of the head gasket and owner wanted a reason for a vacation. Ran it then til he died.
Thank you ! Full Synthetic oil does not really wear out. but the packages to reduce foaming, ph balance, viscosity etc. do wear out !
Not when you are adding 3 gallons of new oil when you change the bypass filter. at every 10.000 miles. Additives last longer in clean oil. The million mile truck might have used conventional oil. I wonder if they use 100 percent synthetic in Shell offshore rigs. When I started trucks used single weight conventional. We didnt have synthetic oils for diesels in those days. Multi grades were no good.
Someone correct me if im wrong . I believe the million mile truck used Shell Rotella T 15 40 conventionL
Viscosity doesn’t break down in oil in straight weight. Multigrade has components that due and the vis will change. Viscosity is not the worry. Acids and sulfur formations form from condensation moisture. That is not a problem if un everyday and the moisture is cooked out if oil temp can meet or exceed 180degrees or more. OTR engines get run so long and often contaminates don’t have mich chance to accumulate but would over a period it would take to run 1000000 mile without a change. Also OTR trucks don’t run in dusty conditions like off road machinery. So.. what does it cost to do recommended oil / filter change’s versus the cost of an early overhaul or break down repair? Remember the treatment the turbo does to the oil that passes through it at the temps it runs at. Just some thoughts from 50 years of operating trucks, excavating equipment and aircraft engines.
This has been claimed for many years and many have learned hard way it doesn't work. Even city tried it few years back took out few engines. Just so much fun changing engines out in garbage truck. Like owners with CNG or LNG engine oil looks clean like new oil. Still has to be changed because it does break down
I've used bypass filters in the past and don' have anything bad to say about them. However...it just makes me fell good to change the oil and filters every now and then. I probably go overboard on oil/filter changes but my '02 Dodge Ram w 24v Cummins now has 200k miles and doesn't burn a drop in between changes. Think I'll stick with this routine.
I think the bypass system would be a good investment when used with regular oil changes. An un mentioned problem is the viscosity stabilisers used in
modern oils tend to be the first to break down from a variety of causes, primarily through dilution mechanical separation and evaporation. With these
additives gone the base oil remains but then lacks the viscosity performance needed in various operating conditions to protect engine parts. In this case a cold start
or two every day versus a long haul constant temp engine will have very different long term outcomes. I also believe oil change interval should be more closely
correlated to driving conditions, like extended stopping frequency, regional and seasonal temperature range and warm up cycles, rather than just miles covered.
I had a 2.5l BMW 6-cylinder TDS in my car, when I scrapped it after 500,000 km, I took the engine apart. The crank and connecting rod bearings were like new out of the box, no sign of wear. I would bet everything on the fact that the bearings would last at least another half a million km, maybe (definitely) more. Aleso beautiful honing on the cylinders, but the engine died due to a cracked head (pre-chamber engine) on each cylinder and coolant consumption. But the engine worked until the last moment.
I have watched 10 seconds and the answer is yes, for at least a decade and only changing the filters. I used to work for volvo trucks who made this claim years ago. Use high grade (relatively expensive) oil, and change high grade filters with a slight oil topup, and 1,000,000km is more than attainable. When asked why they don't, the answer was "because costumers refuse to trust it". Anyway, back to the video.
I use an oil bypass, FS2500. it does work, however I do a FULL PM @ 45k. It still saves money & reduces wear on the engine
I like how diesel destructions are so well engineered they become singular component failure in many different areas as opposed to many different areas of component failures like with gas engines
A gulf coast bypass filter is just made up of 2 cheap Viva towel rolls wrapped in a medical sock. When you change the filter it takes 4 gallons of oil just in the filter canister.
When I sold the Gulf Coast filters years ago the big one took 2 rolls of Bounty Big roll paper towels and held 3 gallons.
I have read studies on adding by pass filter system, the out come is most claim to reduce ring and land wear. I talked to an industrial chemist about oil life span, he said not considering contamination, the life of oil is determined by the breakdown of the long chain molecules in the oil, STP and the like are a concentrated long chain molecule additive.