Oil Pump Porsche 911E Engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2023
- Is this Oil Pump rebuildable?
Find out.
We are getting the parts together to continue building our 1970 Porsche 911E Engine.
We are building some of this via live stream on Saturdays at 2pm. Join us live; you never know what can happen.
Like the beating heart of your Porsche engine, it is very important for this pump to keep pumping. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
Kurt
gracias por tomarte el tiemmpo de hacer este video, de gran ayuda, como casi todos tus videos!!
You are very welcome. I am glad that you enjoy them.
Kurt
Hi Kurt, Ray here in Washington State with the 2.7 project. Thanks you for detailed teardown and inspection points. I was not clear on what to do with my 78K mile pump in this rebuild but now I will take the time to inspect it and make an informed decision to keep or replace. Very grateful!
Glad to of helped.
Kurt
Nice video Kurt! Very informative and good understanding of how they work
Thanks! 👍
Kurt
I keep watching your videos and learn more and more.
Glad to hear that!
Kurt
Excellent, great to see what is still usable and what is not. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Kurt
As I understand it the oil bypass mod (developed by Kremer Racing) allowed the scavenge side to be reduced as the pressure overflow didn't do into the sump and therefore the pressure side increased. When I rebuilt a pump I glass plated the ends to set the clearance. Also I'm interested to see you didn't note the pairs and mesh positions of the gears which I'd recommend (they have dot marks) as the gears would wear into each other.
Yes, when I reuse a pump, I flatten and set the end clearance on the housings and separator plate. (I did mention this in the video, which is more important than gear tooth clearance.). When it comes to the gears, it really does not matter. Gears do not wear into each other; if they do, they are trash (just like the ones in this pump). The gears used in an oil pump are not like the gears in a transmission that have been honed to each other to make a matched set. Instead, these are straight-cut hardened gears that are entirely submerged in engine oil. Now it does hurt anything keeping them in the same place, but it also doesn't change anything putting them were ever. After 100's of oil pumps, I have never had any issues or comebacks.
@@klassikats Thanks Kurt - Would be good to post what you set the end clearance to. I won't obsess too much now about putting the gears back where they came from - My final test is to see if it spins and will pump enough air to move a piece of paper off the outlet
Thank you for your videos Kurt, they have been invaluable in giving me the confidence to build my engine myself. I have a 3.2 liter and was wondering a few things. Upon reassembly do you grease the gears when you put them back together? I removed the pickup, what is the torque spec for the bolts and do you use loctite on them? Lastly what is the torque spec on the nuts for the pump case studs and do you use loctite on them also?
The m6 studs on the pump are torqued to 6-8 Nm I always use new hardware, (Nut and a wave washer), and no loctite.
Kurt
Assuming you have extra cooling capacity, do the newer pumps fit and is there an advantage to using them. This is for a Mag 2.7 and my application is 30% + non-competition track and remainder normal street driving.
Yes if you are looking for greater volume then yes the newer pumps will all fit the earlier cases. However like any new part you need to check and make sure that there is nothing that is hitting or touching where it shouldn't. Depending on what year your 2.7L case is it may not already have had the oil by-pass modification done. If not then that will need to be performed to avoid overfilling the crankcase with oil.
Kurt
Hi, thank you for your videos, they are informative and well done. Regarding the scavenge tube, what glue would you use to fasten it back to the pump? In my earnest to clean, my tube came off. It didn’t take much though. I’ve removed the dried glue from the factory. Thanks
I just use JB Weld, Just make sure to clean everything really well and make sure the tube is in the right position when you glue it in place.
Kurt
👍
Thanks
Hi Kurt,
Thanks for your videos, they are invaluable for Porsche enthusiasts all over. I am rebuilding a 3.0 SC. I noticed that the pickup tube of my oil pump is a bit lose (I can move it about 1 mm side to side). I believe that it may be worth to remove and then glue it back again in place. What type of glue would you recommend using? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Cheers!
We use JB weld to reset oil pick ups. Be careful when doing the SC pick ups because they use a fixed oil screen if you get the angles wrong then you wont be able to the oil screen on.
Kurt
@@klassikats Will use JBWeld. Thanks again!
Is it critical to install the gears in the exact same positions as they were running? I notice there were some punch marks on the ends of the gears.. are they alignment marks?
No it is not critical to re-install the gears in the same place and yes there are indents on the gears but they dont seem to indicate much as I have seen them in all different configuration's when pulling apart pumps.
@@klassikats Interesting Kurt, I just read in Wayne's book that this specific (re)alignment is critical on used pumps as the gears wear in as a pair. Then again you probably have a lot more experience than he did when he wrote the book. 😅
@@lukasmatzinger If the gears have worn so much that you have to put them back in the same place, then I am throwing that pump away.
@@klassikats That makes sense as always Kurt, thanks for sharing your experience!