I get so frustrated when I'm working on something like thisthat I can't even imagine taking the time to stop and record what's happening. Thank you for having the patience and wherewithal to actually document the work you're doing! It's been very helpful!
What Jason Tetterton said, I’m the same about getting frustrated , especially when it comes to anything automotive. So as he said, taking the time to film and explain as you go through the process has to be tough frustration wise. So thanks very much for taking the time to do so!
With all that said!!! He never show some of the actual hard work to get the parts in, just enough for content for youtube. Im a tech, and i know some folks would love to see some of the hard work it takes to do and simple bushing install without all the flapping of the gums. 😢😢😢😢😢 Good videos but Real world, show some hard task too. Ijs.
Thanks for the collar sleeve tip I would’ve never checked my balancer installer kit for it and it worked, I melted the inner sleeve of bushing out and most rubber🔥 very carefully saw zalled the outer sleeve in two cuts, hammer 🔨 and screwdriver it popped out, then grade 8 bolt to Install with various washers, I’m small so I didn’t jack it up, did use the ratchet strap tip also to get hole 🕳 aligned for the bolt 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I used the $6 autozone bushing it’s driving so much better with new radius 🦴 bushings too
Thanks for this video, I have to do this today and watching this gave me enough info that I think I can do it no problem. I have everything tore completely down as I’m doing new ball joints and the front differential had been leaking grease bad , so I took it out to clean up and reseal. One thing I would like to note, the yellow tank you called propane is actually map gas. Map gas can wreak your torch head if it’s one made for propane. If your torch head is rated for map gas though you get things heated up faster with the map gas as it burns hotter than regular propane.
No problem man! 🤙 Nice! You have a decent project on your hands. I’m glad I could help you with it. You are exactly right! I mix the names up sometimes. I definitely prefer map gas to propane.
Lots of repair shops are a total rip off. They're only out for a huge profit. They don't care what kind of financial situation you are in. Pure GREED!!!
@@deniecaballard4646la mayoría de los talleres son bien ladrones te cobran un ojo de la cara y aun asi te hacen una mierda de trabajo yo lleve una troca a un taller que se llama serratos por el arreglo de una transmisión y la verdad el trabajo no me gustó me dijieron 2 Semana y se tardan 4 y luego regreso por que la troca tirando aceite y luego la regreso y a pagar otro dinero extra y se tardan otras 2 semanas en total el costo fue de como de $ 3800 la verdad son una basura de taller tienen a personas incompetent para trabajar el taller se llama serratos la transmisión no sale con fuerza la troca coorre pero muy lenta y el motor tiene todo nuevo adentro haci que mas creo que a la transmisión no le cambiaron todo lo que ocupa
about to replace my radius arm bushings and axle pivot bushings on my 91 f150. thank you for your videos, they also helped me install my tinted windows!
Nice! Definitely easier to do both types of bushings at the same time. No problem man!🤙 I appreciate it! Glad I could help ya out! Thanks for watching!
Good job Steve, Great tips on how to do it. Myself I would of cleaned and painted with a rust proof paint, but that is me. wanting to keep metal protected from road chemicals. Fantastic job, thanks for sharing.
J. R. Thompson Thanks JR! I thought about painting the I-beams but I just knew a quick spray can job would flake off after a year. One day, I’ll pull them up and paint them properly. If you have the time, I would!🤙
Thanks for the lesson. I will be rebuilding the entire front end on my F150. All bushings and ball joints. I was worried most about removing the spring, but it seems like you can remove it without a spring compression tool.PS. I have a '95 with 325,000 miles. Same color as yours, but extended cab and Flare Side.
You're welcome! I'm glad you liked it! Yes, the spring can be removed if you let the suspension fully extend. Unscrewing the nut at the top of the shock is the trick though. Nice! Just when I thought my truck was the only purple one around! Keep her running!
I got it done! Removing the top nut on the shock wasn't hard. I had put new shocks a couple of years ago. It took a 9/16 socket on the nut, and a 3/4 wrench on the shock body itself. But it has to be one that is thinner on the open end to fit between the shock and the washer/bushing. Good thing I had a cheep wrench that fit.That color is one of the reasons I bought the truck. I had a fender bender a few years ago and found that the color is called Bright Sapphire Metallic. I plan on doing a lot of work on restoring this truck. Don't see many Ford Flare sides around many more.
jbrou123 Awesome! You have the right idea! Keeping the shock from spinning is the trick. Yes! Bright Sapphire Metallic! I really think it's an underrated color. Automotive Touch up sells it in spray cans. I plan on painting my truck that way. True! The flare side are rare. In a few more years they should become very sought after trucks.
Did these and a bunch of other front end work over the past week. Videos were super helpful, so thanks Stevie! Took it to get it aligned though and there's still a ton of play in the pivot spot. Shop said the bushings were probably shot not knowing I replaced them. Anyone know what might be going on here?
The easiest and fastest way is to NOT remove anything but the bolt. Raise the truck by the frame where the tire just touches and set it on a jack stand at the frame. Take a jack and place it under the beam towards the middle. Loosen the bolt, drop the beam (you may have to wedge it down with a crowbar) put a 2x4 in between so you have room to remove the bushing. I replaced mine with a factory style Moog bushing and took a air hammer to remove the sleeve. Used a ballpoint press to put the new one in. Remove 2x4, use the jack to put beam back in place and install bolt and nut. Doing it this way it only took 45 mins tops. With the poly bushing this would be a 20 minute job.
Easy, a small pry bar is more then enough. Trust me done this on the side of road a few times. It's gravy work. One bolt and it's a done deal. All I own is "old" Ford I-beam trucks, I'll shoot a video when I do my Lightning, it's super easy. I'll be doing the 93 Lightning front end soon and I'll take a video for you and your viewers. The stealerships have you do it the hard way....
hellion2k I used the pickle fork to get mine out because I couldn’t rent the press. I’d say, rent every possible tool for ball joint removal. Some work better than others. Then have at it! 👍
Appreciate the videos. However, it would be helpful if you would show the work to disassemble and reassemble the suspension areas. Yes it will make the videos a little longer but it will show unexpected problems you may run into which are huge teaching moments and provide your viewers with the extra help they need to complete the job by showing the whole process.
Hey man, great vid. I’m going to do this on my Bronco. Have you ever thought about doing a body mount vid? There’s some out there but I’d like to see your spin on it if you’re game.
Thanks man!🤙 I have. Unfortunately I replaced the body mount bushings for the radiator support. The cab body mounts are original. They look to be in descent shape so I haven’t touched them. But I’ll definitely keep them in mind for a feature video.
Steve: You're a natural at this buddy! I dig your confidence and intelligence. The front of the 95 F-150 is just starting to clunk around a bit so, I'll be hitting the same things myself soon. I appreciate the time you take and took to make high quality videos. They really are a huge cut above virtually everything else I see. Niceeeeeeee!
Patrick PhippsPA Thanks Patrick! I really appreciate!! That’s exactly what I set out to do with this channel. Tackle the common problems whether easy or hard and show you guys how to do it with clear video and audio. I’m glad you enjoyed it! Please share with other people who might be interested!👍
Thanks man! I can’t quite remember the torque spec but I think it was over 100 ft lbs. I used a Haynes manual to source all of my torque specs. I always torque it with the vehicle off the ground and then retorque it with the vehicle on the ground later just to be sure .
Kid......You make a better video and explain things in such a great way....amazing pre-prep work and teaching without a bunch of BS and fanfare. I wish I had an apprentice like you....to pass my skills and secrets down to. You ever want to know anything about special effects...architecture.... steampunk ...let me know. ( Old guy now )
jr johnston Thank you so much! I appreciate it! I’m glad you liked it! I honestly wish there were more people passing on these skills. Some of the trades are dying. Thanks! I’ll keep you in mind!
1. It's called a twin traction beam suspension 2. You DO NOT have to remove the coil spring from the beam, the big 1 1/8th nut does not need to come off 3. Dont remove the top of the shock off it's much more difficult to get to. If the shock isn't new corrosion can seize it up. Remove the bottom bolt instead. It's easier to get to and re-install as well
Chase DeMers So it’s a twin traction beam if it’s 4wd and I beams when it’s 2wd. I agree, looking back, I wouldn’t remove the coil spring. I’d just unbolt the top. Yes, on a rusted shock I would remove the lower bolt but my shocks are in good condition. So I can take the top bolt off.
I appreciate your response, also I'm not ragging on your work, I'm just adding to possibly help out anyone looking to do this job especially since that coil spring nut can be a chore
Chase DeMers No problem man!🤙 I appreciate it man! I didn’t think you were. You made good points and I like having them in the comments for people to read. I’m lucky that I have an impact gun to remove that huge coil spring nut. But to your point it, some people won’t have an impact gun and that nut is a pain to get off the first time. Anyway, thanks for watching man! Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
When I knew I had to do mine I sprayed it for a week with penetrating spray ( PBR blaster ) for three days first. Makes it a lot easier to remove the nuts.
just did my daughters bronco. I applaud to you for doing the job and recording it as you did it. BTW like you said, yes you can do it, it's actually not that dificult.
R Me You're welcome! Glad you gave it go! Right! I was kind of in the same boat like everyone else, worrying about how difficult it was going to be. I was so surprised how easy it was! Thanks for watching!
Unfortunately you leave the sleeve I place with the poly bushings. I will be film a video on how to replace the stock bushing with a stock rubber bushing which will involve taking the old sleeve out.
Just did my bushings, but the 4x4 was a little tougher to get at. I got into a weird mood and installed the new poly bushings without totally cleaning the rubber residue from inside the metal sleeve. I'll let you know if that causes me problems in the future.
@@TheMinuteMasters Yeah I'm not sure the bushing is even supposed to rotate much in that outer sleeve. Looks like most of the pivot comes from the inner race. If it does somehow wreck the bushing, at least now I know how to fix it. Thank you again for this content!
@@alphaclean3364 You are right. The bushing itself doesn’t rotate. It bolt rotates inside the bushing race. So you should be good! No problem man!🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
I’m getting ready to do this bushing swap, but why did you left out the most important part? The part you slide in the new bushing to the arm 😩😩😩 Thanks bro!
Guns and Autocross It just presses in like a ball joint, but easier. I recommend renting a ball joint press or make home brew set up I showed in the video. It’s really simple. You’ll do fine! Good luck!
Any chance you have an autozone part number for those bushings? Id like to make sure they are the same as what I’m looking at. Might be different being that my 94 is 4wd, but I’m unsure.
Also, some twin traction beam from end pivot bushings come "cammed" from the factory which in laymans terms means the bolt hole isn't dead center in the bushing this helps with camber adjustment. So when you take this bushing out make sure to keep an eye on your old bushings before removing for orientation. They are eccentric. When making these how to video's it's better to know what you're doing
The rubber in my pivot and radius bushings are pretty much non existent 😂 thank you for this video, its way easier than the alignment shop said it would be, and $500 cheaper. Will be doing it as soon as my parts come in. Think I'll be safe to drive 70 miles to the alignment shop?
Guys Who Do Stuff Haha! That’s a thing! No problem man!🤙 Glad I could help! Saving money is the name of the game with these repairs. Yeah, you should be fine. Just watch out for potholes and rough roads. They can cause death wobble when bushings are missing. But you should be fine, just don’t expect a smooth ride. Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters you have my sub man. The quality of your videos are comparable to those of chrisfix. Well shot and we explained, you should be more popular
Hey! I have the same bushings from energy suspensions, but I just tried doing them this morning, but the bushing is longer than the oem one, including the metal sleeve, by about 1/4", give or take. I can't press them up into where they seat in the bracket, so what do I do? Thanks!
Really? Try fit testing the bushing in between the axle pivot bracket. The first of the bushings I ordered were too long when I fit tested them and I had to go back to energy suspension and get the correct part number.
I got my energy suspension poly bushings the other day and I think I need to remove that steel sleeve to hold down the small outer piece. Otherwise the bushings don’t fit in the bracket when all said and done.
Brett Jackels If your bushings don’t fit using the existing steel sleeve then you may have bought the wrong set. Without the steel sleeve the poly bushings will have nothing to sit inside. I ordered the wrong bushings the first time. They didn’t fit the axle pivot bracket. So I checked on Energy suspension’s website and I had the wrong product number. I believe the product number for f150 bushings gets confused with the ranger’s product number.
The Minute Masters i pressed the thrust bearings out (sleeve) and reinserted over the small ring side. Then the big section of the bushing slid through the bearing and seems to fit fine.The inside bushing seems like it is a little long about an 8th inch for my bracket so I might just trim it down a bit
FRED MASSE if you need new thrust bearings a.k.a. the sleeves we are talking about. Energy suspension sells them just search 1990 F150 axle pivot bushing and they have a whole kit for it with bearings
FRED MASSE Thanks man! 🤙 Brett answered your question above perfectly. Best of luck with the repair. Out of curiosity, are you in France watching my channel or here in the US?
FRED MASSE You English is great Fred, even better than some native English speakers. Ah! I see. That steel sleeve with OEM written on the side not part of the bushing set. When I filmed this video, I did not have a ball joint press tool. A ball joint press is how you install the axle pivot bushing into the existing steel sleeve from the previous factory installed rubber bushing. I used that “OEM” sleeve with the two piece of steel as a home made ball joint press. Nice! Those are great vans and you are correct. They do have the same suspension as this f150 truck. That’s great Fred! I know I have international viewers but it is always nice to hear from you. You are most welcome my friend! Thank you for watching the channel and you stay safe and healthy from this virus too.
I changed all my ball joints and tie rod ends and my old ford still sounds like all that stuff needs to be changed again. Is axle pivot bushings what i need?
You don't need any fancy tools to remove and install this bushing. Pound it out with a 2lb sledge and press it in with some all thread and the old bushing as a seat.
Which size bolt do you guys have for your pivot bushing? 1/2” or 5/8” bolt? Because I can’t figure out which bolt my ‘96 F150 2WD 4.9L requires? Can’t find the info I need anywhere on the net.
Quick question, if you had to do it all over again, would you still go with the polyurethane bushings, or would you go back to stock. Any regrets with the polyurethane? Squeaks? Harsh ride?
Ore Zamora I would definitely use the polyurethane bushings again. They are easier to install, if you grease them well they won’t squeak, and I really don’t think it made much of a difference in the ride quality either. The benefits are great though. The polyurethane bushings will last longer and don’t break down when they come into contact with oils and fuels. So yeah, definitely a polyurethane bushing fan!🤙
The Minute Masters yeah I’m considering just getting what you got unless I take the whole Ttb apart but I rather do it the way you did, wouldn’t it be nice if we had solid axles, and the fact if you need to take the pumpkin apart is laughable, I have a 96 bronco so feel your pain lol or will soon
DEATHMETALDUDE 666 The poly bushings are so easy to install. So I definitely recommend them. Yeah solid axles would be nice but I do like the ride of the ttb. Nice! I love a good bronco!🤙
Good evening friend, sorry to bother you again, I'm curious, could you tell me if the automatic daford explorer 2005 door panel and lining panel fits or can be adapted to the ford ranger 97 v6 stx 4.0, or if you've seen something like that, or what model would work, I'm from Brazil, thanks for your attention again.
ok thanks for your attention buddy, it would be difficult to find old car scraps out there, I would like to buy a Lund visor in the future for my Ford Ranger 97 v6 stx 4.0 truck, which sends this part to Brazil, here it is not available and on the ebay and amazon websites I found it expensive$ $ due to currency conversion, I hope one day we can do business on this piece I will be very grateful and thank you again for everything and your attention Ford Ranger Brazil Facebook group.
Which kit did you get, I've gotten the prothane 6605 kit and they are too long as well as the 4.3119, which energy suspension themselves told me to get and they are too long. Watching this video it seems you have the 4.3121 kit which I think I need, why could you not use the 4.3133 kit that comes with a new outer sleeve? The inner sleeve is the same length as the 4.3121 kit
So I bought one kit and compared it to a the driver’s side I beam might and it was too long. So I checked the part number with Prothane and got a kit that fit. I can’t remember the part numbers though.
@@TheMinuteMasters all good, I ordered the 4.3121 earlier bc that one seemed like it would fit since the old pivot bushing inner sleeve was closer in length to that 4.3121 kit
So you've had this in several years now, how are they holding up? I'm looking at doing this on my truck this year and wondered what your experience has been.
When you in bolt the top spring retainer and the top nut for the shock, you can lower the entire I-beam down. Then the spring pops out easy. I have a separate video on how to do it. At that point, it’s pretty easy to remove the lower nut and retainer for the spring.
You make it look so easy to this point! I have a 1995 4x4 ranger and need to replace the pivot bushings too, plus the radius arm bushings. I wish my 4x4 was as easy as yours but I am very leary about it. After dropping the front axle I am not sure if I will need to take it apart with concerns for the 4x4 gears. If I only need to drop it, then ok. But if I need to take the axle apart, that is what I worry about with being an amature mechanic! Any advice would help.
Thanks! I guess there's a bit of finesse needed to do this job that doesn't come through the video. Anyway, I must confess I have never worked with the front axles of a 4x4. However, if the axle shafts don't restrict the movement of the I beams for repairs, then you don't need to mess with them. At most you may need to unbolt the front driveshaft. If you do need to remove the front axle shafts, they typically unbolt at the CV joints. After that, they slide out. My advice, give the repair a try. The worse that could happen is you discover you can't do the job and there is nothing wrong with that. It's worth trying though.
Well, the reply gave me the push to get it all jacked up and take a thorough inspection the previous night. The 4x4 is just as simple other than to disconnect the 4x4 drive shaft!! Simple enough! I had taken my truck to firestone to get the wheels balanced and they gave me an estimate over $2000 just to change the Pivot & radius arm bushings alone. I have a lifetime alignment w/ them for this truck. I think they wanted to make up some of their labor money!! Thanks for the kick in the butt!
Virgil White Hey, not problem! I do these videos so people don't have to pay a mechanic a ton of $$$ for something that can be done at home. Glad it worked out! Thanks for watching!
Dan K No problem! That’s good! So I the rubber had the usual cracks, so the inner sleeve came out fine. Now, I think I almost set the bushing on fire. Then I pried at it and it came out in chunks. Once the majority was out, I took the torch to it again. I used a long razor blade to scrape what little was left. Once it’s down to just paper thin pieces left, you can sand the rest out. You should be able to get it pretty smooth.
Dan K No problem man!🤙 So the outer sleeve is pretty sturdy but my advice is to treat it careful. Better to burn the rubber than to pry really hard on the outer sleeve.
You can place your pyramid jacks anywhere other the truck other than under the radius arm and the I-beam that you’re working on. I placed the jacks under the frame just before the radius arm bracket.🤙
They should be. I remembered ordering the incorrect set because one website listed the wrong part number. I always refer back to the Prothane or Energy Suspension part number.
So the best way to find the exact part number is to go to Prothane’s website and then compare that part number to whoever is selling it I.e Summit, JEGS, Amazon, etc. I think Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard sells the proper bushings.
Did you use the kit for a 2WD, or a 4WD? Because RockAuto and the auto part stores give me the wrong one for a 2WD. They give me a kit that is almost an inch longer than the one the truck needs. I am at a loss. I don't want to order every axle pivot bushing they make... LOL. A job that should've taken 2 hours max took 11 hours and is still nowhere close to done. LOL. Which kit did you use?
Eagle Lawn Vac and Auto I can’t quite remember. I order a set of bushings and just tested the fit with a spare axle pivot bracket. That set of too long. So I when directly to the manufacturer’s website and checked the part number to get the right bushing. I most likely would have ordered the 2wd kit.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! That's not the kit they gave me. They gave me 4.3119. You're awesome, sir! Thanks again.
@@TheUnsureFox Which one ended up working for you? I'm about to do this on my 95 f150 2wd. Bought 4.3119, which is the part they specify on their website. Just trying to find out if I bought the wrong part before I tear into it. Thanks
Your video has some good information, but I'm curious why you unbolted the spring and shock from the frame. I've seen this job done without doing so, but with the front of the truck lifted so the tires are off the ground. The MAPP gas torch you have is a must-have for these kinds of jobs, and a trick I've found is to heat up rust-seized nuts and then hit the threaded area with some hydrogen peroxide (less flammable than most penetrating oils). Propane torches help too, but the MAPP gas burns hotter and loosens rusted nuts and bolts more effectively (don't use MAPP on a torch not designed to handle the extra heat!). Also, large C clamps make great makeshift presses, but I'd use a large socket instead if the thin band from the pulley puller because the thin band could squish. Lastly, for getting the old bushings out an air chisel is a HUGE help easier than a ball joint press. Thanks for the video, it's a lot easier to comment on them than to make and post them.
Thanks Jonathan! 🤙 I unbolt the spring and shock to help moving the I beam easier. You probably don’t have to do it that way if the suspension is full extended. MAPP gas torch is 100% the best tool in any mechanics garage. The large c clamp and air chisel are both great ideas. I’ll have to keep those in mind if I have to make this repair again. I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!
I have a capri 30-in breaker bar half inch highly recommend it I refuse to use power tools because they deformed the bolts heads and the chances of f****** up go up. I do everything from suspensions to engines and I use nothing but hand tools. Good job tho.
Nice! I have a auto store brand breaker bar and I still get some use out of it. I agree with you, the impact guns destroy bolts and nuts if you aren't careful. Thanks man!🤙
So there are multiple parts that can cause excessive negative camber when you back up. Ball joints and these axle pivot bushings are the biggest contributors. Otherwise, these trucks are kind of known for that.
You don’t need to remove the coil spring entirely. I like to disconnect the top retaining clip though. This gives the i-beam more movement. You could try leaving everything connected and see how hard it is the pry the I-beam down from the axle pivot bracket.
@@jeremykeith3152 No problem Jeremy! 🤙 Nice! It’s a pretty straightforward repair. Just take your time and put some good tunes on. Very nice! I bet that’s one clean PSD.
This is a stupid question but does my truck have more than 1 axle pivot bushing? The shop told me I need to replace mine but I'm not sure if there's a front or rear?
You press the main piece until the poly flange is flat against the steel sleeve. The backside sticks out of the steel sleeve and then you add the other poly flange.
When you search your model and year of truck, it should match the right size. If you’re getting different sizes during searches, I’d go directly to Prothane’s website and look there. If I remember correctly it seem like they were two different sizes sold for my year of truck. Ultimately, I had to check with Prothane.
Hey :) where did you buyed the bushing? i wanna buy a ford f150 pick up from 1996 and it got the same problem. i am in vancouver, it would be nice if you can help me. thank you very much. (repost this is the right video :) )
MoppeyOBT You can buy OEM bushing kits from just about any auto parts store. As for the Prothane bushings, I think I bought those on Amazon. As a matter of fact, you can get all these bushings on Amazon.
jumaane butler It definitely made the truck "track" better and more consistently. Overall the driving and steering feel was more firm. I still have some wonder but I know now that it's from the steering box. Now if you are still deciding whether to do this repair, I recommend you do it. You will see an improvement in these high mileage trucks. The parts are cheap. Labor and know how is the more difficult part.
So the metal inner sleeve just popped out and then I hacked the rubber out with anything I felt worked. If the center metal sleeve is still attached, the best method to weakening the rubber is to burn the bushing. I think I just used a MAP gas or propane torch you find at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Then you just pick, cut, abs hack until you remove all the rubber.
I’ve replaced all four ball joints with moog brand joints, and I’ve got inner and outer national brand bearings and seals. I’ve also replaced my radius arm bushings, inner and outer. I’ve got this horrible popping sound coming from somewhere under the front end, and I can feel it in my foot when I turn and sometimes brake. Could this be the culprit?
Gabriel Bray The axle pivot bushings could be the culprit, but the only way to know is to check. Jack up your truck and let the suspension fully sag down. Then check the bushings and Shane them. I would also check your steering link and ti rod ends. Those can wear out and pop during steering.
gerardo 12345 I haven't removed the arm but as long as you can undo the radius arm bolt and the bolt that ties the I-beam to the radius arm, then your set. I'd say with PB Blaster, some heat, and a large breaker bar or impact gun, you can do it.
Thanks so much! I'm trying to purchase the prothane bushing you show. Amazon only shows one that is labeled for the rear. What model number is it and what's the best source? I'm doing the radius arm bushing and it makes sense to do both.
Lynn Noonchester No problem man! 🤙 6605 is the part number on Prothane’s website. So feel free to buy them from who ever. I like getting parts through Amazon because of Prime shipping. Yeah it’s definitely worry while doing both.
Hey steve! There is creaking noises everytime i turn the steering wheel. I can also hear them when i hit the brakes. These noises are especially noticeable when turning and braking at very slow speeds. Also of i stand on the side of the truck and shake the truck with a lot of force, the same creaking can be heard. When i took my truck to the shop he said to replace all the bushings would be like $3000. If i were to replace these same bushings that you do here on this video, do you think it will solve the problem? Or its a matter of replacing em one by one until the problem goes away? Thank you for your guidance.
oscar valdez Unfortunately, anything in the suspension can cause noise. Braking and turning put extra strain on a lot of components. However, replacing bushings is a good start. Even if you didn’t have any noises, replacing bushings is a good thing to do. So I’d first inspect the axle pivot bushings and then the radius arm bushings. Look for missing pieces/junks and too much movement. If you feel the least bit suspicious, change them. I would also inspect your steering links. They should be tight but move smoothly. Lastly, check your balk joints. You can do this by jacking up one side at a time so the wheel + tire hangs freely. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with your other. Wiggle the wheel+tire back and forth. If you get more than an 1/8 inch of wiggle. Your ball joints need changing. Anyhow, inspect everything and be sure to tug and wiggle things. Otherwise, it’s best to replace one part at a time to see what solves your problem. There is no need to shell out $3000 all at once to stop a noise. I hope this helps!👍
You probably fixed it already but for a customer car it was the front shock bushings that made the noise that you are describing just FYI swap the shocks and went away
that seems ok im not able to find anything on changing this as a 250 series. (leaf) spring. how much disassembly for that? i have the parts i need just dont like walking in blind. if you could make suggestions . thanks
mchl8 If I’m correct about the leaf sprung 3/4 T, it doesn’t have radius arms. So the procedure should be the same. Remove the shock. Take all the tension out of the leaf spring by letting hang freely. At that point you should be able to unbolt the I beam and pry it down to replace the bushing. If that doesn’t work, you will need to unbolt one if not both sides of the leaf spring. Then the I beam will be easy to move around.
The Minute Masters ill take that in consideration. no i dont belive it has a radius arm . thanks for the response. i didnt think it would b this quick. i hope the leaf spring will flex just enough.
The Minute Masters ok in the up comming this will b tackled. i may make a video of this. for the lack of this setup being displayed. thank you for your responce.
Good question. There are conflicting part numbers out there from third party sellers. Your best bet is to go to Prothane’s website and get the exact part number. Here it is part # 6605
I replaced my upper and lower ball joints a few months ago because I had some play in them and my inside edge of tires wear quickly. I just got new tires and my van feels more squirrely than ever especially when I hit the brakes it jumps side to side a bit and feels pretty scary. I checked my pivot arm and radius arm bushings and they look pretty good to me. Put a pry bar on them all and they did not seem like they had much play at all. I’m going to replace them anyways because something is amiss . Although my sway bar bushings inside the radius arms look shot. I will replace them as well. I doubt the sway bar bushings would cause what I’m experiencing or would it? I’ll check my shocks as well. My van is. 2007 Ford e250. It’s heavily loaded with tools as I’m a contractor. I’m also wearing the inside edges of the rear tires and it seems my rear springs are sagging as well. I got rid of a very heavy Weatherguard flat tool box that weighed a couple hundred pounds it seems. I may replace my rear springs and shocks then just replace the front springs, shocks and bushings. My tie rods seem okay but it seems I have a little side to side slop coming from my steering gear box which is the only play I can get out of the front end. Thinking about this I may replace the shocks first and see how that does then just do the springs and all the bushings to play it safe. My van has almost 190,000 miles Sonora time for a whole rebuild IMO.
Hall House If you’re bushing are all pretty much good. Then I would get change the front suspension first. Replace the coils and shocks. Once those are replaced, I would get a front end alignment. That should take care of the squirreliness. As for the rear, I’ve never heard of rear tires wearing weird. I would first make sure your van isn’t overloaded. Second, I would make sure the tire pressure is good. Then I would consider the leaf springs and shocks. If you are on a budget, replace only the shocks both front and rear. They will band aid the problem until you can replace the coils and leafs. I hope this helps. Weird tire wear is usually alignment, tire inflation, or shocks.
By far, the easiest to follow along video that isn't annoying to watch. Thank you and excellent job!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
I get so frustrated when I'm working on something like thisthat I can't even imagine taking the time to stop and record what's happening. Thank you for having the patience and wherewithal to actually document the work you're doing! It's been very helpful!
Jason Tetterton Thanks! It does take a little more patience and it lengthens repair time. Glad you like it!
What Jason Tetterton said, I’m the same about getting frustrated , especially when it comes to anything automotive. So as he said, taking the time to film and explain as you go through the process has to be tough frustration wise. So thanks very much for taking the time to do so!
With all that said!!! He never show some of the actual hard work to get the parts in, just enough for content for youtube. Im a tech, and i know some folks would love to see some of the hard work it takes to do and simple bushing install without all the flapping of the gums. 😢😢😢😢😢 Good videos but Real world, show some hard task too. Ijs.
Steve, you understand my plight since you are keeping you truck going. I admire that.
J. R. Thompson Thanks JR! I’ll keep the old girl running as long as a can. I hope that one day she will be a real head turner.
Thanks for the collar sleeve tip I would’ve never checked my balancer installer kit for it and it worked, I melted the inner sleeve of bushing out and most rubber🔥 very carefully saw zalled the outer sleeve in two cuts, hammer 🔨 and screwdriver it popped out, then grade 8 bolt to Install with various washers, I’m small so I didn’t jack it up, did use the ratchet strap tip also to get hole 🕳 aligned for the bolt 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I used the $6 autozone bushing it’s driving so much better with new radius 🦴 bushings too
Gmguy3car No problem man! 🤙 Glad I could help! You definitely did all the right things to get the job done!
Very helpful. Great lighting on the views, to the point and no unnecessary small talk. Awesome job!.
Thanks man!!
Thanks for this video, I have to do this today and watching this gave me enough info that I think I can do it no problem. I have everything tore completely down as I’m doing new ball joints and the front differential had been leaking grease bad , so I took it out to clean up and reseal. One thing I would like to note, the yellow tank you called propane is actually map gas. Map gas can wreak your torch head if it’s one made for propane. If your torch head is rated for map gas though you get things heated up faster with the map gas as it burns hotter than regular propane.
No problem man! 🤙 Nice! You have a decent project on your hands. I’m glad I could help you with it.
You are exactly right! I mix the names up sometimes. I definitely prefer map gas to propane.
While changing Oil, I noticed mine are pretty much Gone.Glad you did this Video
It happens to everyone. Once you replace them, you will see a huge difference.
Repair shop said 3.5 hours, took me 45 minutes and saved $1300
j lowe Winning!!👍 Good job man!
Lots of repair shops are a total rip off. They're only out for a huge profit. They don't care what kind of financial situation you are in.
Pure GREED!!!
@@deniecaballard4646la mayoría de los talleres son bien ladrones te cobran un ojo de la cara y aun asi te hacen una mierda de trabajo yo lleve una troca a un taller que se llama serratos por el arreglo de una transmisión y la verdad el trabajo no me gustó me dijieron 2 Semana y se tardan 4 y luego regreso por que la troca tirando aceite y luego la regreso y a pagar otro dinero extra y se tardan otras 2 semanas en total el costo fue de como de $ 3800 la verdad son una basura de taller tienen a personas incompetent para trabajar el taller se llama serratos la transmisión no sale con fuerza la troca coorre pero muy lenta y el motor tiene todo nuevo adentro haci que mas creo que a la transmisión no le cambiaron todo lo que ocupa
about to replace my radius arm bushings and axle pivot bushings on my 91 f150. thank you for your videos, they also helped me install my tinted windows!
Nice! Definitely easier to do both types of bushings at the same time. No problem man!🤙 I appreciate it! Glad I could help ya out! Thanks for watching!
Good job Steve, Great tips on how to do it. Myself I would of cleaned and painted with a rust proof paint, but that is me. wanting to keep metal protected from road chemicals. Fantastic job, thanks for sharing.
J. R. Thompson Thanks JR! I thought about painting the I-beams but I just knew a quick spray can job would flake off after a year. One day, I’ll pull them up and paint them properly. If you have the time, I would!🤙
Thanks for the lesson. I will be rebuilding the entire front end on my F150. All bushings and ball joints. I was worried most about removing the spring, but it seems like you can remove it without a spring compression tool.PS. I have a '95 with 325,000 miles. Same color as yours, but extended cab and Flare Side.
You're welcome! I'm glad you liked it! Yes, the spring can be removed if you let the suspension fully extend. Unscrewing the nut at the top of the shock is the trick though. Nice! Just when I thought my truck was the only purple one around! Keep her running!
I got it done! Removing the top nut on the shock wasn't hard. I had put new shocks a couple of years ago. It took a 9/16 socket on the nut, and a 3/4 wrench on the shock body itself. But it has to be one that is thinner on the open end to fit between the shock and the washer/bushing. Good thing I had a cheep wrench that fit.That color is one of the reasons I bought the truck. I had a fender bender a few years ago and found that the color is called Bright Sapphire Metallic. I plan on doing a lot of work on restoring this truck. Don't see many Ford Flare sides around many more.
jbrou123 Awesome! You have the right idea! Keeping the shock from spinning is the trick. Yes! Bright Sapphire Metallic! I really think it's an underrated color. Automotive Touch up sells it in spray cans. I plan on painting my truck that way. True! The flare side are rare. In a few more years they should become very sought after trucks.
Late for the party, I have the 95 purple flare side too, great channel to come to, with 240,000 there is plenty of work to do.
You got lucky on those. On my 67 I had to get the steel sleeve out. Cut it in half with a dremel and peeled it out. SUPER fun.
J Nugent Yeah that does sound like fun! lol That's why I did the polyurethane bushings!
Thanks got straight to the point 👍 very helpful
Thanks man! 🤙 I’m glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
This channel has potential bro keep it up
Thanks man!🤙
Did these and a bunch of other front end work over the past week. Videos were super helpful, so thanks Stevie! Took it to get it aligned though and there's still a ton of play in the pivot spot. Shop said the bushings were probably shot not knowing I replaced them. Anyone know what might be going on here?
You are most welcome!
I would ask where the “play” was. Was the excess play at the bushing, the axle pivot bracket, etc.
The easiest and fastest way is to NOT remove anything but the bolt. Raise the truck by the frame where the tire just touches and set it on a jack stand at the frame. Take a jack and place it under the beam towards the middle. Loosen the bolt, drop the beam (you may have to wedge it down with a crowbar) put a 2x4 in between so you have room to remove the bushing. I replaced mine with a factory style Moog bushing and took a air hammer to remove the sleeve. Used a ballpoint press to put the new one in. Remove 2x4, use the jack to put beam back in place and install bolt and nut. Doing it this way it only took 45 mins tops. With the poly bushing this would be a 20 minute job.
I thought about doing this way but thought it would be hard to pry the I-beam down. How hard was it to pry down?
Easy, a small pry bar is more then enough.
Trust me done this on the side of road a few times. It's gravy work. One bolt and it's a done deal.
All I own is "old" Ford I-beam trucks, I'll shoot a video when I do my Lightning, it's super easy. I'll be doing the 93 Lightning front end soon and I'll take a video for you and your viewers. The stealerships have you do it the hard way....
F[]ck Perry Nice! If I ever have to do this again, I’ll definitely try it! It makes sense though considering how simple the I-beam suspension is.
Perfect! Just throw a link in the comments so I can check it out!👍
hellion2k I used the pickle fork to get mine out because I couldn’t rent the press. I’d say, rent every possible tool for ball joint removal. Some work better than others. Then have at it! 👍
Man I wish we could see you do it… thanks for the video! It does help
Me too. I wish I owned a tripod then so that you could see me press the bushing in.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I understand man, no worries… I’ve gotta see it be done or I’ll never get it 😂
@@willwork2fish261 Thanks man!🤙 I get ya. I’m partially a visual learner too.
@@TheMinuteMasters and why the heck are cover lays so expensive! Lol
@@willwork2fish261 I have no idea but it could be the type of material. Lol They’ve definitely paid off the vacuum molds by now.
Appreciate the videos. However, it would be helpful if you would show the work to disassemble and reassemble the suspension areas. Yes it will make the videos a little longer but it will show unexpected problems you may run into which are huge teaching moments and provide your viewers with the extra help they need to complete the job by showing the whole process.
I agree 100%! I’ve actually change the way I film my videos, and now I include all the work.🤙
Superduties still use twin I beam suspension ,it is tough and rock solid forged steel !
You are right! The twin I beam can take a beating. As long as the bushings are in good shape, it will be a smooth ride too.🤙
Another great video thank you, great job!
Thanks Dennis!!🤙 I appreciate it!
Im doing mine right now, just wanted to watch your video again, great job!
@@dennissecor8092 Nice! Good luck and take your time. Thanks Dennis!🤙
Thanks for the advice, this video is perfect
Brian Chan No problem man! 🤙 Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Hey man, great vid. I’m going to do this on my Bronco. Have you ever thought about doing a body mount vid? There’s some out there but I’d like to see your spin on it if you’re game.
Thanks man!🤙 I have. Unfortunately I replaced the body mount bushings for the radiator support. The cab body mounts are original. They look to be in descent shape so I haven’t touched them. But I’ll definitely keep them in mind for a feature video.
I would never have tried this, if I hadn't watched your video.
That’s great to hear Bobby! Aren’t you glad you did it yourself?
Steve: You're a natural at this buddy! I dig your confidence and intelligence. The front of the 95 F-150 is just starting to clunk around a bit so, I'll be hitting the same things myself soon. I appreciate the time you take and took to make high quality videos. They really are a huge cut above virtually everything else I see. Niceeeeeeee!
Patrick PhippsPA Thanks Patrick! I really appreciate!! That’s exactly what I set out to do with this channel. Tackle the common problems whether easy or hard and show you guys how to do it with clear video and audio. I’m glad you enjoyed it! Please share with other people who might be interested!👍
That was map gas, great video.
Great videos but torque specs please and include if there's any procedure for torquing, such as having the full weight of the truck in order to torque
Thanks man! I can’t quite remember the torque spec but I think it was over 100 ft lbs. I used a Haynes manual to source all of my torque specs.
I always torque it with the vehicle off the ground and then retorque it with the vehicle on the ground later just to be sure .
Kid......You make a better video and explain things in such a great way....amazing pre-prep work and teaching without a bunch of BS and fanfare. I wish I had an apprentice like you....to pass my skills and secrets down to. You ever want to know anything about special effects...architecture.... steampunk ...let me know. ( Old guy now )
jr johnston Thank you so much! I appreciate it! I’m glad you liked it!
I honestly wish there were more people passing on these skills. Some of the trades are dying.
Thanks! I’ll keep you in mind!
1. It's called a twin traction beam suspension
2. You DO NOT have to remove the coil spring from the beam, the big 1 1/8th nut does not need to come off
3. Dont remove the top of the shock off it's much more difficult to get to. If the shock isn't new corrosion can seize it up. Remove the bottom bolt instead. It's easier to get to and re-install as well
Chase DeMers So it’s a twin traction beam if it’s 4wd and I beams when it’s 2wd. I agree, looking back, I wouldn’t remove the coil spring. I’d just unbolt the top. Yes, on a rusted shock I would remove the lower bolt but my shocks are in good condition. So I can take the top bolt off.
I appreciate your response, also I'm not ragging on your work, I'm just adding to possibly help out anyone looking to do this job especially since that coil spring nut can be a chore
Chase DeMers No problem man!🤙 I appreciate it man! I didn’t think you were. You made good points and I like having them in the comments for people to read. I’m lucky that I have an impact gun to remove that huge coil spring nut. But to your point it, some people won’t have an impact gun and that nut is a pain to get off the first time.
Anyway, thanks for watching man! Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
When I knew I had to do mine I sprayed it for a week with penetrating spray ( PBR blaster ) for three days first. Makes it a lot easier to remove the nuts.
Jim Bascombe Nice! That’s always the best strategy!🤙
Great video!!!
Thanks man!🤙
Good job
Thanks man!🤙
My bushing is shot I'm glad to see I dont need to drop the whole damn axle to get this done
mno676 I know right! Otherwise this would be a total pain to do.
just did my daughters bronco.
I applaud to you for doing the job and recording it as you did it. BTW like you said, yes you can do it, it's actually not that dificult.
R Me You're welcome! Glad you gave it go! Right! I was kind of in the same boat like everyone else, worrying about how difficult it was going to be. I was so surprised how easy it was! Thanks for watching!
nice video but i wish you had shown just how you pressed the sleeve of the bushing out after you removed the rubber.
Unfortunately you leave the sleeve I place with the poly bushings. I will be film a video on how to replace the stock bushing with a stock rubber bushing which will involve taking the old sleeve out.
You can use a hole saw to cut out the old bushings too.
I never thought about that method but that’s a really good idea! Thanks for sharing!🤙
Showing the process of putting it in would have really helped
Like how to press in the bushing?
Just did my bushings, but the 4x4 was a little tougher to get at. I got into a weird mood and installed the new poly bushings without totally cleaning the rubber residue from inside the metal sleeve. I'll let you know if that causes me problems in the future.
Nice! Haha! Well as long as most of the old rubber is out, I don’t think it’s going to cause any real issues. Sounds good man!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Yeah I'm not sure the bushing is even supposed to rotate much in that outer sleeve. Looks like most of the pivot comes from the inner race. If it does somehow wreck the bushing, at least now I know how to fix it. Thank you again for this content!
@@alphaclean3364 You are right. The bushing itself doesn’t rotate. It bolt rotates inside the bushing race. So you should be good! No problem man!🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
I’m getting ready to do this bushing swap, but why did you left out the most important part? The part you slide in the new bushing to the arm 😩😩😩
Thanks bro!
Guns and Autocross It just presses in like a ball joint, but easier. I recommend renting a ball joint press or make home brew set up I showed in the video. It’s really simple. You’ll do fine!
Good luck!
@@TheMinuteMasters with the ball joint tool was it easy to press in?
@@brandonruhl4525 With an actual ball joint press it’s pretty easy. My homemade ball joint press was a little weird to use but it did the trick.
Any chance you have an autozone part number for those bushings? Id like to make sure they are the same as what I’m looking at. Might be different being that my 94 is 4wd, but I’m unsure.
I don’t. I bought my set online and verified the manufacturer part number with the listing on the website.
Also, some twin traction beam from end pivot bushings come "cammed" from the factory which in laymans terms means the bolt hole isn't dead center in the bushing this helps with camber adjustment. So when you take this bushing out make sure to keep an eye on your old bushings before removing for orientation. They are eccentric. When making these how to video's it's better to know what you're doing
... and then we would have no how to videos.
The rubber in my pivot and radius bushings are pretty much non existent 😂 thank you for this video, its way easier than the alignment shop said it would be, and $500 cheaper. Will be doing it as soon as my parts come in. Think I'll be safe to drive 70 miles to the alignment shop?
Guys Who Do Stuff Haha! That’s a thing! No problem man!🤙 Glad I could help! Saving money is the name of the game with these repairs. Yeah, you should be fine. Just watch out for potholes and rough roads. They can cause death wobble when bushings are missing. But you should be fine, just don’t expect a smooth ride. Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters you have my sub man. The quality of your videos are comparable to those of chrisfix. Well shot and we explained, you should be more popular
Guys Who Do Stuff Thanks man! I appreciate it!🤙 Well please feel free to share my channel around and I’ll keep the videos coming!
I don't wanna fucking do these this week. But. It's been 30 years. Might at well.
car guy It’s not to bad! Good luck man! 👍
Hey! I have the same bushings from energy suspensions, but I just tried doing them this morning, but the bushing is longer than the oem one, including the metal sleeve, by about 1/4", give or take. I can't press them up into where they seat in the bracket, so what do I do? Thanks!
Really? Try fit testing the bushing in between the axle pivot bracket. The first of the bushings I ordered were too long when I fit tested them and I had to go back to energy suspension and get the correct part number.
@TheMinuteMasters I already pressed them into my I beams, so they are greasy and not considered "new". I'll look for the shorter ones online, thanks!
I got my energy suspension poly bushings the other day and I think I need to remove that steel sleeve to hold down the small outer piece. Otherwise the bushings don’t fit in the bracket when all said and done.
Brett Jackels If your bushings don’t fit using the existing steel sleeve then you may have bought the wrong set. Without the steel sleeve the poly bushings will have nothing to sit inside. I ordered the wrong bushings the first time. They didn’t fit the axle pivot bracket. So I checked on Energy suspension’s website and I had the wrong product number. I believe the product number for f150 bushings gets confused with the ranger’s product number.
The Minute Masters i pressed the thrust bearings out (sleeve) and reinserted over the small ring side. Then the big section of the bushing slid through the bearing and seems to fit fine.The inside bushing seems like it is a little long about an 8th inch for my bracket so I might just trim it down a bit
FRED MASSE if you need new thrust bearings a.k.a. the sleeves we are talking about. Energy suspension sells them just search 1990 F150 axle pivot bushing and they have a whole kit for it with bearings
FRED MASSE Thanks man! 🤙 Brett answered your question above perfectly. Best of luck with the repair. Out of curiosity, are you in France watching my channel or here in the US?
FRED MASSE You English is great Fred, even better than some native English speakers.
Ah! I see. That steel sleeve with OEM written on the side not part of the bushing set. When I filmed this video, I did not have a ball joint press tool. A ball joint press is how you install the axle pivot bushing into the existing steel sleeve from the previous factory installed rubber bushing. I used that “OEM” sleeve with the two piece of steel as a home made ball joint press.
Nice! Those are great vans and you are correct. They do have the same suspension as this f150 truck.
That’s great Fred! I know I have international viewers but it is always nice to hear from you. You are most welcome my friend! Thank you for watching the channel and you stay safe and healthy from this virus too.
I changed all my ball joints and tie rod ends and my old ford still sounds like all that stuff needs to be changed again. Is axle pivot bushings what i need?
It could be. I would inspect your axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings. See if there is any extra movement in them.
You don't need any fancy tools to remove and install this bushing. Pound it out with a 2lb sledge and press it in with some all thread and the old bushing as a seat.
damn fine video!!
Thanks John!
Which size bolt do you guys have for your pivot bushing? 1/2” or 5/8” bolt? Because I can’t figure out which bolt my ‘96 F150 2WD 4.9L requires? Can’t find the info I need anywhere on the net.
Quick question, if you had to do it all over again, would you still go with the polyurethane bushings, or would you go back to stock. Any regrets with the polyurethane? Squeaks? Harsh ride?
Ore Zamora I would definitely use the polyurethane bushings again. They are easier to install, if you grease them well they won’t squeak, and I really don’t think it made much of a difference in the ride quality either. The benefits are great though. The polyurethane bushings will last longer and don’t break down when they come into contact with oils and fuels. So yeah, definitely a polyurethane bushing fan!🤙
Is the f150 same as the e150
Around these same year?
I think so.
There’s different bushings that I got that are like the oe style so I would have to get that metal sleeve out or get what you got
DEATHMETALDUDE 666 Yeah the oem are rubber with the metal sleeve attached. The poly bushings go inside the old oem bushing sleeve.
The Minute Masters yeah I’m considering just getting what you got unless I take the whole Ttb apart but I rather do it the way you did, wouldn’t it be nice if we had solid axles, and the fact if you need to take the pumpkin apart is laughable, I have a 96 bronco so feel your pain lol or will soon
DEATHMETALDUDE 666 The poly bushings are so easy to install. So I definitely recommend them. Yeah solid axles would be nice but I do like the ride of the ttb. Nice! I love a good bronco!🤙
Good evening friend, sorry to bother you again, I'm curious, could you tell me if the automatic daford explorer 2005 door panel and lining panel fits or can be adapted to the ford ranger 97 v6 stx 4.0, or if you've seen something like that, or what model would work, I'm from Brazil, thanks for your attention again.
Good question! I don’t know the answer. The doors do look similar though.
ok thanks for your attention buddy, it would be difficult to find old car scraps out there, I would like to buy a Lund visor in the future for my Ford Ranger 97 v6 stx 4.0 truck, which sends this part to Brazil, here it is not available and on the ebay and amazon websites I found it expensive$ $ due to currency conversion, I hope one day we can do business on this piece I will be very grateful and thank you again for everything and your attention Ford Ranger Brazil Facebook group.
That torch kit is 60$ now lol
Really? Lol
Which kit did you get, I've gotten the prothane 6605 kit and they are too long as well as the 4.3119, which energy suspension themselves told me to get and they are too long. Watching this video it seems you have the 4.3121 kit which I think I need, why could you not use the 4.3133 kit that comes with a new outer sleeve? The inner sleeve is the same length as the 4.3121 kit
So I bought one kit and compared it to a the driver’s side I beam might and it was too long. So I checked the part number with Prothane and got a kit that fit. I can’t remember the part numbers though.
@@TheMinuteMasters all good, I ordered the 4.3121 earlier bc that one seemed like it would fit since the old pivot bushing inner sleeve was closer in length to that 4.3121 kit
Thank you
Scott Dallaire You’re welcome!🤙
So you've had this in several years now, how are they holding up? I'm looking at doing this on my truck this year and wondered what your experience has been.
They are still holding up great! If it wasn’t for the road dirt stuck to the grease, I’d say they still looked new.
My truck is shaking badly, ive replaced everything possible but these, could this be my issue?
If these are really bad, you get heavy clunky vibrations.
How the hell did you get the spring off with the lower nut and retainer still on??
When you in bolt the top spring retainer and the top nut for the shock, you can lower the entire I-beam down. Then the spring pops out easy. I have a separate video on how to do it. At that point, it’s pretty easy to remove the lower nut and retainer for the spring.
You make it look so easy to this point! I have a 1995 4x4 ranger and need to replace the pivot bushings too, plus the radius arm bushings. I wish my 4x4 was as easy as yours but I am very leary about it. After dropping the front axle I am not sure if I will need to take it apart with concerns for the 4x4 gears. If I only need to drop it, then ok. But if I need to take the axle apart, that is what I worry about with being an amature mechanic! Any advice would help.
Thanks! I guess there's a bit of finesse needed to do this job that doesn't come through the video. Anyway, I must confess I have never worked with the front axles of a 4x4. However, if the axle shafts don't restrict the movement of the I beams for repairs, then you don't need to mess with them. At most you may need to unbolt the front driveshaft. If you do need to remove the front axle shafts, they typically unbolt at the CV joints. After that, they slide out. My advice, give the repair a try. The worse that could happen is you discover you can't do the job and there is nothing wrong with that. It's worth trying though.
Well, the reply gave me the push to get it all jacked up and take a thorough inspection the previous night. The 4x4 is just as simple other than to disconnect the 4x4 drive shaft!! Simple enough! I had taken my truck to firestone to get the wheels balanced and they gave me an estimate over $2000 just to change the Pivot & radius arm bushings alone. I have a lifetime alignment w/ them for this truck. I think they wanted to make up some of their labor money!! Thanks for the kick in the butt!
Virgil White Hey, not problem! I do these videos so people don't have to pay a mechanic a ton of $$$ for something that can be done at home. Glad it worked out! Thanks for watching!
Thanks man! Was able to press the inner sleeve out, but prying the rubber out seems to take forever- how far do you heat the rubber up? Burning?
Dan K No problem! That’s good! So I the rubber had the usual cracks, so the inner sleeve came out fine. Now, I think I almost set the bushing on fire. Then I pried at it and it came out in chunks. Once the majority was out, I took the torch to it again. I used a long razor blade to scrape what little was left. Once it’s down to just paper thin pieces left, you can sand the rest out. You should be able to get it pretty smooth.
Thanks so much for quick reply! No worries about damaging outer sleeve when prying?
Dan K No problem man!🤙 So the outer sleeve is pretty sturdy but my advice is to treat it careful. Better to burn the rubber than to pry really hard on the outer sleeve.
Where did you place all your pyramid jacks
You can place your pyramid jacks anywhere other the truck other than under the radius arm and the I-beam that you’re working on. I placed the jacks under the frame just before the radius arm bracket.🤙
Do you need an alignment after this?
It’s usually a good idea to have an alignment done after suspension work to make sure nothing changed.
Part number for these, are the axle pivot bushings the same for 2wd and 4wd?
Thanks for making your video's too, I have been watching ya for quite awhile now lol
They should be. I remembered ordering the incorrect set because one website listed the wrong part number. I always refer back to the Prothane or Energy Suspension part number.
You’re welcome! Thanks Terrance!🤙 I appreciate it.
Quick question, I am doing this process and want to know if bushing is pressed in from front to back of i beams?
I pressed it in from the front.
Thanks for info great video but not enough detail on install but thanks for getting back to me will try to finish up today.
@@frankgonzalez534 No problem Frank! What else do you need to know about install?
New comment on an old video here: do you have the part # for those?
So the best way to find the exact part number is to go to Prothane’s website and then compare that part number to whoever is selling it I.e Summit, JEGS, Amazon, etc. I think Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard sells the proper bushings.
Thank you!!!
Whose Money No problem man!!👍
Also does the larger thinner red ring fo in the front or the back side of beam?
The bushing presses in from the front and the ring caps the back.
Do worn raduis arm and I beam bushings, causes the death wobble?
They can cause death wobble, especially when combined with an older front suspension.
So the inner steel sleeve doesn't have to be removed if you use the prothane bushing???? Right?
The outer sleeve from the old bushing gets reused when using a prothane bushing. The prothane bushing kit comes with a new inner “bolt” sleeve.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks!
@@Dutch1951x No problem Chris!🤙
Hi Steve, How are those bushings holding up after 5 years?
They are still in great shape! I should probably do a video on them!🤙
Did you use the kit for a 2WD, or a 4WD? Because RockAuto and the auto part stores give me the wrong one for a 2WD. They give me a kit that is almost an inch longer than the one the truck needs. I am at a loss. I don't want to order every axle pivot bushing they make... LOL. A job that should've taken 2 hours max took 11 hours and is still nowhere close to done. LOL. Which kit did you use?
Eagle Lawn Vac and Auto I can’t quite remember. I order a set of bushings and just tested the fit with a spare axle pivot bracket. That set of too long. So I when directly to the manufacturer’s website and checked the part number to get the right bushing. I most likely would have ordered the 2wd kit.
Eagle Lawn Vac and Auto
Energy Suspension Part# 4.3133
@@TheMinuteMasters
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! That's not the kit they gave me. They gave me 4.3119. You're awesome, sir! Thanks again.
Eagle Lawn Vac and Auto You are most welcome!! Thank you!🤙
@@TheUnsureFox Which one ended up working for you? I'm about to do this on my 95 f150 2wd. Bought 4.3119, which is the part they specify on their website. Just trying to find out if I bought the wrong part before I tear into it. Thanks
Your video has some good information, but I'm curious why you unbolted the spring and shock from the frame. I've seen this job done without doing so, but with the front of the truck lifted so the tires are off the ground. The MAPP gas torch you have is a must-have for these kinds of jobs, and a trick I've found is to heat up rust-seized nuts and then hit the threaded area with some hydrogen peroxide (less flammable than most penetrating oils). Propane torches help too, but the MAPP gas burns hotter and loosens rusted nuts and bolts more effectively (don't use MAPP on a torch not designed to handle the extra heat!). Also, large C clamps make great makeshift presses, but I'd use a large socket instead if the thin band from the pulley puller because the thin band could squish. Lastly, for getting the old bushings out an air chisel is a HUGE help easier than a ball joint press. Thanks for the video, it's a lot easier to comment on them than to make and post them.
Thanks Jonathan! 🤙
I unbolt the spring and shock to help moving the I beam easier. You probably don’t have to do it that way if the suspension is full extended.
MAPP gas torch is 100% the best tool in any mechanics garage.
The large c clamp and air chisel are both great ideas. I’ll have to keep those in mind if I have to make this repair again.
I appreciate the comment and thanks for watching!
2023, thanks.
graciasusare este video, de manera informaivo para mostrarlo en mi empresa.
Erika chirinos De nada!
I have a capri 30-in breaker bar half inch highly recommend it I refuse to use power tools because they deformed the bolts heads and the chances of f****** up go up.
I do everything from suspensions to engines and I use nothing but hand tools.
Good job tho.
Nice! I have a auto store brand breaker bar and I still get some use out of it. I agree with you, the impact guns destroy bolts and nuts if you aren't careful.
Thanks man!🤙
you can just drop the i beams without doing anything except unbolting it where the bushing is
This is true. I went this route so I didn’t have to fight anything.
Folks drop vehicle first (with loose pivot bolts) then tighten bolts specifically after suspension rests on ground.
Done 101 That makes sense. Thanks for the tip!👍
Is this what is causing my tires to look like this when I back up \ /
So there are multiple parts that can cause excessive negative camber when you back up. Ball joints and these axle pivot bushings are the biggest contributors. Otherwise, these trucks are kind of known for that.
@TheMinuteMasters been fighting this for 2 1/2 yrs, driving me crazy
Just to be clear, is removing the coil springs necessary?
You don’t need to remove the coil spring entirely. I like to disconnect the top retaining clip though. This gives the i-beam more movement. You could try leaving everything connected and see how hard it is the pry the I-beam down from the axle pivot bracket.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the reply. About to do this and happy I found your informative video. Rebuilding the suspension on my 95 PSD 2WD.
@@jeremykeith3152 No problem Jeremy! 🤙
Nice! It’s a pretty straightforward repair. Just take your time and put some good tunes on. Very nice! I bet that’s one clean PSD.
This is a stupid question but does my truck have more than 1 axle pivot bushing? The shop told me I need to replace mine but I'm not sure if there's a front or rear?
Kino650 Yup! You have a left and a right axle pivot bushing. They are both in the front. No axle pivot bushing in the rear.👍
What kind of jack stands do you use?
I think they are a Pep Boys (Pennsylvania auto parts chain) brand. They are the usual ratchet type with the release lever.
Do you press them in all the way flush ?
You press the main piece until the poly flange is flat against the steel sleeve. The backside sticks out of the steel sleeve and then you add the other poly flange.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you very much... 👍🏾
@@alexlewisiii6654 You are most welcome Alex!🤙
What size is that Axle Pivot Bushings??
When you search your model and year of truck, it should match the right size. If you’re getting different sizes during searches, I’d go directly to Prothane’s website and look there. If I remember correctly it seem like they were two different sizes sold for my year of truck. Ultimately, I had to check with Prothane.
Hey :) where did you buyed the bushing? i wanna buy a ford f150 pick up from 1996 and it got the same problem. i am in vancouver, it would be nice if you can help me. thank you very much. (repost this is the right video :) )
MoppeyOBT You can buy OEM bushing kits from just about any auto parts store.
As for the Prothane bushings, I think I bought those on Amazon. As a matter of fact, you can get all these bushings on Amazon.
Did this solve your wondering issues?
jumaane butler It definitely made the truck "track" better and more consistently. Overall the driving and steering feel was more firm. I still have some wonder but I know now that it's from the steering box. Now if you are still deciding whether to do this repair, I recommend you do it. You will see an improvement in these high mileage trucks. The parts are cheap. Labor and know how is the more difficult part.
It's really common for wondering steering due to gear box being bad. If it's factory gear box and truck is 96 or older replace it anyways
Hey Steve! Quick question, how did you punch out the center of the bushing first?
So the metal inner sleeve just popped out and then I hacked the rubber out with anything I felt worked. If the center metal sleeve is still attached, the best method to weakening the rubber is to burn the bushing. I think I just used a MAP gas or propane torch you find at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Then you just pick, cut, abs hack until you remove all the rubber.
@@TheMinuteMasters Simple enough! Thanks, gonna tackle this on the weekend 🤙
@@mtbelzone Nice! 🤙 Good luck man!
I’ve replaced all four ball joints with moog brand joints, and I’ve got inner and outer national brand bearings and seals. I’ve also replaced my radius arm bushings, inner and outer. I’ve got this horrible popping sound coming from somewhere under the front end, and I can feel it in my foot when I turn and sometimes brake. Could this be the culprit?
Gabriel Bray The axle pivot bushings could be the culprit, but the only way to know is to check. Jack up your truck and let the suspension fully sag down. Then check the bushings and Shane them.
I would also check your steering link and ti rod ends. Those can wear out and pop during steering.
What are the simptoms of a bad one?
Front end feels loose, you can hear and feel a clunk if it’s really bad, and I think you can get death wobble from worn bushings too.
Did it actually make a difference when you replaced it?
@@kiyamanus3723 Absolutely, I had a minor vibration and steering was a bit loose.
It's it hard to remove the arm off i need to replace mind it got bent from a crash reasons im here watching the video good work anyway 👍
gerardo 12345 I haven't removed the arm but as long as you can undo the radius arm bolt and the bolt that ties the I-beam to the radius arm, then your set. I'd say with PB Blaster, some heat, and a large breaker bar or impact gun, you can do it.
Thanks so much! I'm trying to purchase the prothane bushing you show. Amazon only shows one that is labeled for the rear. What model number is it and what's the best source? I'm doing the radius arm bushing and it makes sense to do both.
Lynn Noonchester No problem man! 🤙 6605 is the part number on Prothane’s website. So feel free to buy them from who ever. I like getting parts through Amazon because of Prime shipping. Yeah it’s definitely worry while doing both.
Lynn Noonchester That part number is for a 2wd 1995 f150. I’d go to Prothane’s website to verify the part you need.
@@TheMinuteMasters watch from Amazon with prime. Thanks so much!
Lynn Noonchester No problem man! Good luck!🤙
Mate, no disrespect. But you're a very handsome fella
Hahaha! Thanks man! 🤙
de todos los cambios de bujes que he visto, me ha gustado este, donde el mecanico no es esta sucio...
Erika chirinos ¡Gracias! Me gusta mantener las cosas limpias.
where did you get the parts??
Here you go👇
shop.broncograveyard.com/1992-1997-Ford-Bronco-F-Series-Truck-Radius-Arm-Bushings-Red-4wd/productinfo/33012/
Hey steve! There is creaking noises everytime i turn the steering wheel. I can also hear them when i hit the brakes. These noises are especially noticeable when turning and braking at very slow speeds.
Also of i stand on the side of the truck and shake the truck with a lot of force, the same creaking can be heard.
When i took my truck to the shop he said to replace all the bushings would be like $3000.
If i were to replace these same bushings that you do here on this video, do you think it will solve the problem? Or its a matter of replacing em one by one until the problem goes away?
Thank you for your guidance.
oscar valdez Unfortunately, anything in the suspension can cause noise. Braking and turning put extra strain on a lot of components. However, replacing bushings is a good start. Even if you didn’t have any noises, replacing bushings is a good thing to do. So I’d first inspect the axle pivot bushings and then the radius arm bushings. Look for missing pieces/junks and too much movement. If you feel the least bit suspicious, change them. I would also inspect your steering links. They should be tight but move smoothly. Lastly, check your balk joints. You can do this by jacking up one side at a time so the wheel + tire hangs freely. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with your other. Wiggle the wheel+tire back and forth. If you get more than an 1/8 inch of wiggle. Your ball joints need changing.
Anyhow, inspect everything and be sure to tug and wiggle things. Otherwise, it’s best to replace one part at a time to see what solves your problem. There is no need to shell out $3000 all at once to stop a noise.
I hope this helps!👍
You probably fixed it already but for a customer car it was the front shock bushings that made the noise that you are describing just FYI swap the shocks and went away
Definitely ball joints
Heads up everyone: While you have the axle dropped, check the torque on the mounting bracket bolts at the cross member. Mine were waaaay loose.
RW4X4X3006 Good idea! I found my frame was cracked there when I check.
@@TheMinuteMasters I've seen that before on rigs that frequent the jungle jim action.
RW4X4X3006 Jungle Jim describes Pennsylvania roads perfectly! Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters Oregon too, buddy!
that seems ok im not able to find anything on changing this as a 250 series. (leaf) spring. how much disassembly for that? i have the parts i need just dont like walking in blind. if you could make suggestions . thanks
mchl8 If I’m correct about the leaf sprung 3/4 T, it doesn’t have radius arms. So the procedure should be the same. Remove the shock. Take all the tension out of the leaf spring by letting hang freely. At that point you should be able to unbolt the I beam and pry it down to replace the bushing. If that doesn’t work, you will need to unbolt one if not both sides of the leaf spring. Then the I beam will be easy to move around.
The Minute Masters ill take that in consideration. no i dont belive it has a radius arm . thanks for the response. i didnt think it would b this quick. i hope the leaf spring will flex just enough.
mchl8 I don’t think it will be as quick. Leaf springs require more finesse to deal with.
The Minute Masters ok in the up comming this will b tackled. i may make a video of this. for the lack of this setup being displayed. thank you for your responce.
mchl8 Best of luck! I hope it all works out!
What the part number did you use
Good question. There are conflicting part numbers out there from third party sellers. Your best bet is to go to Prothane’s website and get the exact part number. Here it is part # 6605
I replaced my upper and lower ball joints a few months ago because I had some play in them and my inside edge of tires wear quickly.
I just got new tires and my van feels more squirrely than ever especially when I hit the brakes it jumps side to side a bit and feels pretty scary.
I checked my pivot arm and radius arm bushings and they look pretty good to me.
Put a pry bar on them all and they did not seem like they had much play at all.
I’m going to replace them anyways because something is amiss .
Although my sway bar bushings inside the radius arms look shot.
I will replace them as well.
I doubt the sway bar bushings would cause what I’m experiencing or would it?
I’ll check my shocks as well.
My van is. 2007 Ford e250.
It’s heavily loaded with tools as I’m a contractor.
I’m also wearing the inside edges of the rear tires and it seems my rear springs are sagging as well.
I got rid of a very heavy Weatherguard flat tool box that weighed a couple hundred pounds it seems.
I may replace my rear springs and shocks then just replace the front springs, shocks and bushings.
My tie rods seem okay but it seems I have a little side to side slop coming from my steering gear box which is the only play I can get out of the front end.
Thinking about this I may replace the shocks first and see how that does then just do the springs and all the bushings to play it safe.
My van has almost 190,000 miles Sonora time for a whole rebuild IMO.
Hall House If you’re bushing are all pretty much good. Then I would get change the front suspension first. Replace the coils and shocks. Once those are replaced, I would get a front end alignment. That should take care of the squirreliness. As for the rear, I’ve never heard of rear tires wearing weird. I would first make sure your van isn’t overloaded. Second, I would make sure the tire pressure is good. Then I would consider the leaf springs and shocks. If you are on a budget, replace only the shocks both front and rear. They will band aid the problem until you can replace the coils and leafs. I hope this helps. Weird tire wear is usually alignment, tire inflation, or shocks.
You can change these pivot bushing without removing the tire or spring.
So just leave everything on and pry the I-beam down?
@@TheMinuteMasters Put a jack under the I beam and lower it down. The spring will force the I beam down.
@@garypatton9720 Ah! That’s a good idea! Thanks for sharing man!🤙
that's my exact truck I know I said this but have not found another like it does urs have a/c
Lou Rock Mine does have a/c and it's ice cold!
My truck did not I had to put it in myself just lifted her 4in working on video now .
Lou Rock I wonder is XL is supposed to have air conditioning. Sweet dude! I'll have to check that out!
Steve, what state are you in?
Iowa
@@TheMinuteMasters great state!