For all you people still driving these old Ford Trucks I have come up with the easiest and safest way to replace Axle Pivot Bushings on your F150. You won't have to remove the tires or springs at all. You will need a set of ramps, a large floor jack, a ball joint replacement kit (Amazon $45), 2 Moog Bushings (Amazon $11 each), a 1/2 inch impact driver, an 18mm (or 13/16) wrench, a 21mm impact socket, a couple of medium pry bars or large screw drivers, a large torque wrench, a smaller flat chisel, an alignment punch and a saws all with a metal blade. Drive your truck on the ramps and set the parking brake. Take your large floor jack to the side you wish to repair and jack the truck up until the wheel lifts off the ramp. Slide under the truck, remove the axle bushing bolt with the 18mm/21mm wrench and socket. Pry the I axle beam arm down to expose the bushing and insert a second pry bar above the beam to hold it. Take the flat chisel and drive the rear metal edges of the bushing inward. If you are lucky you can take a flat end punch and drive the bushing forward by striking the bent edges of the metal bushing. (Don't try to press the bushing from the front to rear, you need to drive the bushing towards the front of the truck.) If you can't get it moving you can force out the metal core and use a saws all to cut through the rubber and slice through the metal case in two places. You might want to start with just cutting the metal casing along the rear edge and pry a little more of the edge up and try the punch again. Just a little cutting and edge prying can free it up for the punch to work. After you remove the bushing and clean the burrs out of the hole grease the new bushing and press in with the ball joint press and impact driver. It almost takes 3 hands to line up the heavy press while aligning it correctly. I used 2 hands and my big belly to do it. Don't drive the bushing all the way where the lip is flush, leave about a 3/16" gap like the factory did. Also be careful to use the right cup on the rear of the bushing so the bushing can protrude. It your bushing stops before it's all the way in you need to readjust the rear cup. I don't see how it would be possible to press this bushing in without an impact driver and ball joint press. Since you raised the one tire off the ground aligning the bushing holes is easy using the pry bar. I have seen videos of folks struggling with ratchet straps trying to align the bushing bolt holes but with the one tire off the ground it's easy. Put the bolt in and torque it to spec. The car ramps stay under the front wheels the whole time so I think it's better than using jack stands. I am a 70 year old, obese man and I could do this. You can too! Good luck!
I might be wrong but I believe you are supposed to do the final torquing once the vehicle is back down on its tires. It will prevent premature failure of the bushing.
Thank you! Wanted to pass along that air chisel method was a massive time saver. Your videos are always spot on. The 4x4 version there is much less room to use a ball joint press, but it is possible. If I were to do it again id probably create a makeshift press before getting started.
That spring looks angry, it wants to kill. Great job on the Bush. You make it look pretty easy, I have to do my Nissan soon. The camber bolts are very rusty and didn't budge on my first attempt earlier this year.
Another insightful and well demonstrated video tutorial. Thank you so much for the pro tips and techniques that I intend to follow when replacing these bushings on my 93 F-150 XLT
Thank you for the video, as by watching it I now know how to change that bushing, but also how to change the shock and spring, which I have to do on my 2003 E450 7.3 😁😁😁
crazy. when i did my bushings i didnt even mess with the springs or shocks. now i am thinking about doing upper, lower ball joints. and maybe springs. dont look rusty like alot of peoples. 95 f150
I'm working on my 96 2wd and my suspension doesn't have enough travel to make the spring loose enough to pull out. I'm hoping I have enough tension off to pull the bushing with the spring still in place but unbolted.
Those radius arms are crusty. I’ll have to be replacing mine soon along with the ball joints and body mounts. I don’t want to do poly because they squeak. I figure the originals have lasted 28 years for my ‘95 so I’ll see if I can get more like them.
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For all you people still driving these old Ford Trucks I have come up with the easiest and safest way to replace Axle Pivot Bushings on your F150. You won't have to remove the tires or springs at all.
You will need a set of ramps, a large floor jack, a ball joint replacement kit (Amazon $45), 2 Moog Bushings (Amazon $11 each), a 1/2 inch impact driver, an 18mm (or 13/16) wrench, a 21mm impact socket, a couple of medium pry bars or large screw drivers, a large torque wrench, a smaller flat chisel, an alignment punch and a saws all with a metal blade.
Drive your truck on the ramps and set the parking brake. Take your large floor jack to the side you wish to repair and jack the truck up until the wheel lifts off the ramp. Slide under the truck, remove the axle bushing bolt with the 18mm/21mm wrench and socket. Pry the I axle beam arm down to expose the bushing and insert a second pry bar above the beam to hold it. Take the flat chisel and drive the rear metal edges of the bushing inward. If you are lucky you can take a flat end punch and drive the bushing forward by striking the bent edges of the metal bushing. (Don't try to press the bushing from the front to rear, you need to drive the bushing towards the front of the truck.) If you can't get it moving you can force out the metal core and use a saws all to cut through the rubber and slice through the metal case in two places. You might want to start with just cutting the metal casing along the rear edge and pry a little more of the edge up and try the punch again. Just a little cutting and edge prying can free it up for the punch to work.
After you remove the bushing and clean the burrs out of the hole grease the new bushing and press in with the ball joint press and impact driver. It almost takes 3 hands to line up the heavy press while aligning it correctly. I used 2 hands and my big belly to do it. Don't drive the bushing all the way where the lip is flush, leave about a 3/16" gap like the factory did. Also be careful to use the right cup on the rear of the bushing so the bushing can protrude. It your bushing stops before it's all the way in you need to readjust the rear cup.
I don't see how it would be possible to press this bushing in without an impact driver and ball joint press.
Since you raised the one tire off the ground aligning the bushing holes is easy using the pry bar. I have seen videos of folks struggling with ratchet straps trying to align the bushing bolt holes but with the one tire off the ground it's easy. Put the bolt in and torque it to spec.
The car ramps stay under the front wheels the whole time so I think it's better than using jack stands. I am a 70 year old, obese man and I could do this. You can too! Good luck!
I might be wrong but I believe you are supposed to do the final torquing once the vehicle is back down on its tires. It will prevent premature failure of the bushing.
Wow! That air hammer bushing press out is way easier than other ways I’ve seen people do it.
Would be nice to watch an hour long vid of someone going to town on all that surface rust
Thank you! Wanted to pass along that air chisel method was a massive time saver. Your videos are always spot on. The 4x4 version there is much less room to use a ball joint press, but it is possible. If I were to do it again id probably create a makeshift press before getting started.
excellent instructional video thank you for taking the time to show us
That spring looks angry, it wants to kill. Great job on the Bush. You make it look pretty easy, I have to do my Nissan soon. The camber bolts are very rusty and didn't budge on my first attempt earlier this year.
Another insightful and well demonstrated video tutorial.
Thank you so much for the pro tips and techniques that I intend to follow when replacing these bushings on my 93 F-150 XLT
Thank you for the video, as by watching it I now know how to change that bushing, but also how to change the shock and spring, which I have to do on my 2003 E450 7.3 😁😁😁
Nicely done, thank you for sharing.
crazy. when i did my bushings i didnt even mess with the springs or shocks. now i am thinking about doing upper, lower ball joints. and maybe springs. dont look rusty like alot of peoples. 95 f150
Thanks for the video. I'm starting today on my 1994 completely ripped my ujoints apart 😢
I'm working on my 96 2wd and my suspension doesn't have enough travel to make the spring loose enough to pull out. I'm hoping I have enough tension off to pull the bushing with the spring still in place but unbolted.
Nice job!
Could these bushings being bad cause shaking? If not, what are the symptoms?
I would put torque wrench on nut rather than bolt. 😅.
Do you have to take thw tires off?? And everything
Those radius arms are crusty. I’ll have to be replacing mine soon along with the ball joints and body mounts. I don’t want to do poly because they squeak. I figure the originals have lasted 28 years for my ‘95 so I’ll see if I can get more like them.
all them parts really needs to be changed the radiuse armes looked bad so this the springs