I use almost the same method to tin my circuits. But I keep the rinse water in a tank where it evaporates. Here, the unsoldered tin (which is a pollutant) is directly sent to the waste water.
Thank you very much as I understand the hot air gun should be set at maximum temperature and lowest air pressure ? Any idea about the time need using hot air gun in minutes ? Thanks again
Hey Thomas from Vancouver. This the big smoke(Toronto). Do you know where to get a similar product in Canada? Seems a lot cheaper than that MG chemical liquid tin. Thanks to TrickyNeckro as well. Great video!
have you tried this in combo with solder mask/stop? ive seen videos where people tin whole thing before...but ive never scraped up mask on a pro board and seen tined trace so that feels wrong. wondering why i havent seen anyone mask then tin pads
Thank you for this video! However, I tried this last night and for some reason, the areas where there was not any copper, some of the paste remained and I was unable to get off of the board. Was this because I didn't heat it up long enough or too long?
This works good but you need to scrub the circuit board very well or the traces will arc together under high voltages. I cleaned them with acetone , but evidently it wasn't good enough. I used phenolic boards and when the traces started carrying upwards of 250 volts they started arcing . Maybe FR4 would be better. My circuits worked again when I scratched between the arcing traces.
If you have a high voltage application, you need to have your traces far apart, as per arcing rules (I can't recall what this is called at the moment) and or you need conformal coating.
Icee Turf Traces were far enough, it was just the tinning paste that caused the arcing. Once it was gone they were okay. Also putting the board on a hot plate or frying pan worked much better than the heat gun and a lot less paste was required.
Most probably it was just residue... I don´t see how the tin could start binding in the FR4 but it needs a really good cleaning after the procedure that´s for sure. Never tried it with HV application though in logic lvl boards that we made even with very narrow tracks, we didn´t get a problem. Anyhow if you can´t have enough clearance on your board between HV traces you should slot the space, which is anyhow a good idea as debris can have the same effect on the board as the paste residue. Cheers!
I use almost the same method to tin my circuits. But I keep the rinse water in a tank where it evaporates. Here, the unsoldered tin (which is a pollutant) is directly sent to the waste water.
Very nice video and a great alternative to some other methods. Thank you. Spokane, WA.
Really nice result, cheers guys. Will definitely try & see if I can find an equivalent product in the UK
Hi there, I was wandering if you've managed to find an equivalent in the UK and if so what is the name of the product and who sales it please. Ta.
@@ovi_4 Same question... Any ideas?
Thank you very much for explaining it again in your reply.
Thank you sir for your video! How to plate double sided boards with this methode?
Thank you very much as I understand the hot air gun should be set at maximum temperature and lowest air pressure ? Any idea about the time need using hot air gun in minutes ? Thanks again
well done, thomas, from Vancouver Canada reporting in, like your videos, and explanations, cheers. come by one day.
Hey Thomas from Vancouver. This the big smoke(Toronto). Do you know where to get a similar product in Canada? Seems a lot cheaper than that MG chemical liquid tin. Thanks to TrickyNeckro as well. Great video!
have you tried this in combo with solder mask/stop? ive seen videos where people tin whole thing before...but ive never scraped up mask on a pro board and seen tined trace so that feels wrong. wondering why i havent seen anyone mask then tin pads
Excuse me, could you tell me what temperature I have to establish if I use a kitchen oven?
Thank you for this video! However, I tried this last night and for some reason, the areas where there was not any copper, some of the paste remained and I was unable to get off of the board. Was this because I didn't heat it up long enough or too long?
Hey, thanks for the input. That would be cause you heated the area for too long normally. If it looked a bit like rock then sure that was the case.
Understood. I appreciate it!
@@williamhoneycutt453 Sure! Anytime!
Excellent result!
Ωραία δουλειά Λευτέρη,
η πάστα απο που την αγόρασες;
Nice - will definitely try this.
ερώτηση ... το έχετε δοκιμάσει για κόλληση εξαρτημάτων σε φούρνο αντί για solder paste ... γιατί είναι σημαντικά φτηνότερο από ότι βλέπω ...
Thank you very much! You help me a lot!!!
This works good but you need to scrub the circuit board very well or the traces will arc together under high voltages. I cleaned them with acetone , but evidently it wasn't good enough.
I used phenolic boards and when the traces started carrying upwards of 250 volts they started arcing . Maybe FR4 would be better. My circuits worked again when I scratched between the arcing traces.
If you have a high voltage application, you need to have your traces far apart, as per arcing rules (I can't recall what this is called at the moment) and or you need conformal coating.
Icee Turf Traces were far enough, it was just the tinning paste that caused the arcing. Once it was gone they were okay. Also putting the board on a hot plate or frying pan worked much better than the heat gun and a lot less paste was required.
Oh, was the tin plating embedding into the circuit board substrate?
IceTurf seems so.
Most probably it was just residue... I don´t see how the tin could start binding in the FR4 but it needs a really good cleaning after the procedure that´s for sure. Never tried it with HV application though in logic lvl boards that we made even with very narrow tracks, we didn´t get a problem. Anyhow if you can´t have enough clearance on your board between HV traces you should slot the space, which is anyhow a good idea as debris can have the same effect on the board as the paste residue. Cheers!
Very nice result :)
Will check that out, thanx
Danka
Говор жу ткий
just buy some proper tin solution dip it for ten mins proper professional finish job done!! no pissing about with ruining a credit card!!
PMD do a cheap immerse tin solution probably a lot c
heaper than plumbers paste
Ruining a credit card ! Do you live on a desert island ? Unwanted cards are sent free in the post in almost all Western countries.
@Joachim Shekelberg I've been making PCBs for 20 yrs, tin solution has never let me down!!
Right down the drain...
Meh? Sewerage is connected to the industrial / medical wastewater treatment.