If you want to see the same circuit test with the method of the toner transfer paper: Si quieres ver el mismo circuito de test con el método del papel de transferencia de toner:th-cam.com/video/gm9gw3OwdLA/w-d-xo.html
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Kason Adrien I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Bob, thought I'd let you know and others that may be interested, The Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide works excellent! What normally took almost more than a few hours with Ferric Acid...The Muriatic Acid and Peroxide took a matter of a few minuets. ....just plain WOW!
Luis Acebal is using Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid)and Sodium Perborate in his video. Are you substituting Hydrogen Peroxide for Sodium Perborate. If so, what is the mixture? Sodium Perborate is a powder while Hydrogen Peroxide is liquid.
Hola Luis, muchas gracias por el video, es excelentisisisisimo, siempre quise aprender hacer asi mis circuitos cuando era estudiante, y es muy lindo ver todo el proceso, muchas gracias y felicidades, hoy dia como hobbista, hago mis circuitos por metodo de transferencia de toner, con un gran resultado, no del nivel del fotoresist, pero muy bueno, que digo bueno excelente tu video, gracias totales, saludos
Good video, I haven't made a pcb in years and I used the older Ferric Chloride method. But make sure to agitate the etching chemicals in both axis evenly, that is left to right AND up to down. Agitation in one axis will preferentially etch between close traces in that direction, and less well for close traces running perpendicular to the direction of agitation. Also i used to put the container of etchant into a bath of hot water to warm it up prior to use. Cold etchant will work so slowly that the old etch resist i used would start to dissolve before a good etch was complete. Although I have no idea if that would help or hurt your chemistry process.
Hola Senior, La presentación en general fue muy buena, bien ilustrada y fácil de entender. La presentación tenía un inconveniente y era el uso de fuentes blancas sobre fondo blanco. No está mal, ya que vi el video completo y me preocupé lo suficiente como para recibir comentarios. Gracias, buen video.
nice... For photo mask I use transparent film for laser printer For polishing I use kitchen sponge (hard side) I use water spray for attaching photoresist, it makes process more softly and adjustable For lamination I use paper cover, to prevent thermal damage For developing I use silicone glue, it work slowly but softly, you do not need care about proportion of mix
Desde luego que deja buenas impresiones. Hasta ahora he hecho muy pocas placas, para un par de proyectos caseros, y he usado la técnica del rotulador indeleble... pero viendo los buenos resultados que deja el uso de películas fotosensibles, creo que voy a cambiar de método en cuanto vea una placa que requiera cierta... finura a la hora de hacerla. Supongo que también se podría mejorar un poco la calidad de los acabados usando impresora láser en una lámina transparente... Mola, muy ilustrativo el vídeo, thumbs up!!
Hola Daniel: Efectivamente si es importante la calidad de la impresión, pero solo para afinar mucho, para un circuito con pistas anchas sin componentes SMD no es fundamental, si tienes que afinar mucho puedes encargar fotolitos en acetato, son más caros pero te sirven para muchas tiradas. Gracias por tu comentario.
Great video mate. Although at some points you could've sped the video up. One thing I wantrd to point out: for cleaning the copper I use a 10000 grid padd. It gives a much more equal and Smooth finish.
Brother, This has to be one of the best videos for dry film application. BTW, where can I find that test pattern? Another thing bro. I love toking to this video!!!!! 😌
Buen día. Excelente vídeo Luis, muchas gracias. he realizado varias de estas pero con otros métodos. Creo que va ha ser la mejor forma y mas efectiva. Éxitos desde Colombia.
Greatvideo. Been have ago at this myself today. I am having a lot of problems getting the film flat without bubbles you made it look very easy. But thanks for sharing regards Chris
Hi, its a joy to watch how beautiful the PCB being made in home easily. Could you please send us the aliexpress link that you bought the film from? I ordered two times and they sent me really crap item and was not wrinkle free. We would love to hear from you in this regard. Thank you in advance.
Sodium perborate is not easily supplied at my place. Perhaps I could replace it with sodium perchlorate that is in just about any oxy-action bleach in every household. I like how your PCB got etched so nicely with this combination of chemicals. Thanks for your insight.
Amigo disculpa la pregunta has hecho la prueba. Ok materiales de acero, se puede hacer ese mismo método en otros metales te agradecería me pudieras confirmar
Gracias amigo. Se puede intentar raspar un poco si la zona es pequeña, aunque lo correcto sería ajustar un poco mas de tiempo en el ácido para la próxima vez y seguro que sale perfecto.
FYI Acetone is really really bad to handle with your bare hands. You would probably be better off using alcohol, but even a stronger solvent such as laquer thinner is better for you than Acetone. Acetone affects your immune system by leaching oils out of your skin. You absorb a lot of it when handling it because of this.... As an ex-autobody shop owner and painter, I used acetone as a cheap solvent for years. I developed bad chemical allergies from handling the stuff too much. Seriously, it's much better to limit acetone use as much as possible ;) -Jake
Acetone might smell pungent but other than drying out your skin it dos not do much harm when used occasionally. Household alcohol @ 94% will be as flammable and will dry out your skin to the same extent - that's why it's used a "chemical" drying agent when preparing biology specimens. However, it will not be able to remove fatty acids or mineral oils from the work piece as good as a proper solvent does (ahhh, the days of trichloroethylene...). The amount of acetone absorbed via skin is neglible and it does not harm your respiratory system - unlike paint thinner which can cause "chemical pneumonia" (which can be lethal) even in small amounts. Repeated use certainly does affect nerves and brain - just like any solvent but for occasional use by amateurs it's probably even better than ethyl acetate.
@@f.d.6667 If Acetone did that much damage to the human body it wouldn't be sold to women as nail polish remover! Acetone is also used for surgical adhesive dressing removal to remove the sticky residue from the skin, again this wouldn't be done if it was harmful, a little dry skin isn't a serious danger if it is just your hands. USE polythene gloves, nitrile rubber gloves are dissolved by acetone.
Excellent video, but in step 3 i have seen people using transparent sheet but you have used different kind of paper looks like normal paper you mentioned negative print on vegetable paper could you explain this step in detail I am in urgency.
The problem is that I don't know what this type of paper is called in other countries, in Spain it is onion paper or vegetable paper, which is cheaper than acetate transparencies. The important thing is that the paper must be transparent to UV light.
Bueno en el video las pistas que estaban comunicadas tenian una separación de 0,1mm, yo creo que afinando más con un buen fotolito y con unos segundos más en el ácido hubieran quedado separadas. Yo creo que podrías conseguir 0,1mm de separación.
How do you use this papel cebolla? It looks according to the video that the image has been transferred via UV exposure. Are there any links showing how to prepare this papel cebolla for positive or negative exposure? After the papel cebolla is finished can you eat it?
Amigo sei que ó vídeo faz tempo mas me tirá uma dúvida pôr favor. Como faz pra inverter o fotolito? Ínverter onde tava preto fica branco como faz essa mágica kkk abraço valeu abrigado
My issue is using the light blue photoresist and ArcAiN6, perhaps that is the problem! Using photoresist to do 2-sided PCBs and so far, after exposure, placing into the sodium carbonate, one side turns out great...the other side rinses right off!!! WTH?!! Placing the film on both sides? Done the same exact way! SOOOO...? Any thoughts? I use a normal laminator but I put the PCB(s) in right from start and just continue to push though until they start to get hot.
most important for a good result is the artwork film and the exposure unit. a one light bulb source is still the best way to go. at the moment working on a real artwork making plotter to exposure film. toner transfer is okay for basic work and one off pcb's
Great video! You make the process look simple and easy. I use the same process and I have an issue with the laminator. I have to make three passes otherwise the film does not stick firmly. The problem is that at the last pass for single sided boards and at the second pass for the double sided boards (that are thicker) I get some kind of clear traces. Have you ever had this issue? If so what was the solution?
It has never happened to me, every laminator is different, especially the domestic ones, Some make more pressure and others less, the same with the temperature. You always have the option of doing it with an iron.
Thank you Luis. Like you said it may be because of the strong pressure. The one I use is an office one. It expects thin papers so with a thick pcb it applies a lot of pressure indeed. I tried to loosen it a little but it may damage it once and for all. I guess I'll keep it with two passes for now until I find a laminator that is more suitable for PCBs.
Good video but your method dont work for me. After etching I cannot get the hardened dryfilm off the board with acetone. Can you link the dryfilm you are using (cause mine seems to be made of different components). Thanks!
That is not possible. Have you removed the second protective film (11:04)? It is quite usual to forget, Although in that case neither the development nor the etching process would work
Hello, very good video! Can you please post the circuit pdf or give me the link where you take it. I like that design. I was looking on web but I didn't found it! thank you!
Hello. Thank you for this video. In the past I have only used Toner Transfer film, an electric iron, and Ferric Chloride. What is the advantage of this kind of film? Better resolution? What about the chemicals? They seem more dangerous, are they just faster, or are they more precise than ferric chloride?
Hi friend, Good question, I have not yet made any particular comparison of the two techniques, but It is possible that the next video I made is a comparison with the method you say and the same test circuit, So far I've already got 100 sheets of toner transfer paper. Regarding chemicals, the fundamental difference is the etching speed, with ferric chloride I remember having to leave it overnight. Thanks and regards.
Hi! could you share the test pattern you used? If you have the Kicad project would be great, but a .pdf will be enough. I want to test the precision I get at home. Thanks!
Excelente video! Encontré que se puede comprar el film en ebay. Una pregunta. Si no se dispone de luces UV, es posible utilizar luces fluorecentes aumentando el tiempo de exposición? Puedo reemplazar el papel mantequilla por acetato impreso en laser? Gracias por tu respuesta!
Lo mejor y más barato tiras led UV, que las puedes encontrar tiradas de precio. Un consejo, revisalas antes de montar la insoladora pq muchas veces hay led fundidos y podría salir mal el proyecto por eso.
10:30 What did he mean by removing unexposed areas when he did the thing with sodium carbonate? I considered the pcb as simply ready for etching! I didn't understand that...
Only the film that is not covered by the template he printed out (the negative) is exposed to the light. It blocks the light from the portions that you'll eventually want to etch. You remove the unexposed film which exposes the copper that you want to dissolve in your etching fluid.
@@kevoice thank you, please bare with me. At 11:03 he removed the film already. Then at 11:06 he soaked it in sodium carbonate, what for? I understand we need to remove the film in order later to expose the "desired to etch" copper area to etching solution like FeCl3, but why the sodium carbonate?
@@youssefdirani The sodium carbonate functions like a developing solution. It will wash away the parts that weren't exposed to the UV. If you don't remove all of the unexposed film, it will end up blocking your etching solution and you'll end up with a blotchy board, bridged traces, etc. The sodium carbonate should wash away everything but the circuit design you exposed onto the film.
@kevoice Ok. So even after removing the film 11:03, the unexposed area is not just copper! It is something else that needs to be washed using sodium carbonate to have just copper. Then we may etch the copper.
what is the shelf life of photoresist film ? i mean how long will it remain good if unexposed? also, i think inkjet printer on plastic sheet would make better results.
Hola sabes si para el revelado se puede usar tambien sosa caustica disuelta en agua como con las placas positivas? Es que tengo un monton de sosa caustica para las placas positivas y si sirve para este revelado, no he de comprar 25kg de carbonato de sodio que es el unico formato que venden en mi zona.
I didn't try it yet, but I'm sure that the type of the paint in the printer (if that's what you ask) doesn't matter until it stops the UV light from passing through.
Que yo conozca se puede usar además el cloruro férrico que es más lento, y luego ácido clorhídrico + peroxido de hidrógeno, este es el más asequible ya que puedes encontrar los dos ingredientes en cualquier supermercado, comunmente salfuman (en España) y agua oxigenada, son baratos y es bastante rápido pero hay que tener cuidado con las concentraciones. Me apunto el tema para un futuro video, un saludo.
Felicitarte, por la claridad de la exposición, y de paso preguntarte, si sabes las proporciones de los productos químicos, para el estañado frio, por inmersión. De todas formas muchas gracias, a que no sabia, como utilizar este film
Hola, me parece muy interesante el metodo, voy a probarlo, pero tengo antes la duda de como te deshaces de los desechos quimicos?, los echas al drenaje?, tengo entendido que si mezclas el acido clorhidrico con bicarbonato de sodio se neutraliza y se puede echar al drenaje. Gracias y Saludos!
Bueno, los desechos químicos se deberían llevar a un punto de reciclaje, debido a que tienen metales disueltos. Si fuese solo por el ácido lo puedes neutralizar o diluir y luego desechar tal como se hace con la lejía. Cuidadito con almacenarlo en recipientes, porque produce gases, aumenta la presión y puede explotar, y además al abrirlo te puede saltar a la cara.
If you want to see the same circuit test with the method of the toner transfer paper:
Si quieres ver el mismo circuito de test con el método del papel de transferencia de toner:th-cam.com/video/gm9gw3OwdLA/w-d-xo.html
Donde consigo los quimicos en Colombia? Pones links en ls descripcion porfa? Me parece que estas en Medellin pero si sabes de algo en Bogota mejor.
i dont mean to be offtopic but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the login password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Asa Ryland instablaster ;)
@Kason Adrien I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm trying it out now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Kason Adrien It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
Este es el unico video que explica con claridad y lucides en toda la web felicitaciones al que lo produjo....
Bob, thought I'd let you know and others that may be interested, The Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide works excellent! What normally took almost more than a few hours with Ferric Acid...The Muriatic Acid and Peroxide took a matter of a few minuets. ....just plain WOW!
Luis Acebal is using Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid)and Sodium Perborate in his video. Are you substituting Hydrogen Peroxide for Sodium Perborate. If so, what is the mixture? Sodium Perborate is a powder while Hydrogen Peroxide is liquid.
best diy pcb video out there period
Excellent video on DIY PCB. Low cost, fast and high quality.
Thank you! The the clearest tutorial I have found on YT for using dry film.
Besides the content the music on this one is great! Big Up!
Hola Luis, muchas gracias por el video, es excelentisisisisimo, siempre quise aprender hacer asi mis circuitos cuando era estudiante, y es muy lindo ver todo el proceso, muchas gracias y felicidades, hoy dia como hobbista, hago mis circuitos por metodo de transferencia de toner, con un gran resultado, no del nivel del fotoresist, pero muy bueno, que digo bueno excelente tu video, gracias totales, saludos
Watch it at 2x speed for time saving and cheerful music!
I came from the future and i can confirm this is legit
Thannk you for putting this in English as well :) Nice Job Luis!
Good video, I haven't made a pcb in years and I used the older Ferric Chloride method. But make sure to agitate the etching chemicals in both axis evenly, that is left to right AND up to down. Agitation in one axis will preferentially etch between close traces in that direction, and less well for close traces running perpendicular to the direction of agitation.
Also i used to put the container of etchant into a bath of hot water to warm it up prior to use. Cold etchant will work so slowly that the old etch resist i used would start to dissolve before a good etch was complete. Although I have no idea if that would help or hurt your chemistry process.
Hola Senior, La presentación en general fue muy buena, bien ilustrada y fácil de entender. La presentación tenía un inconveniente y era el uso de fuentes blancas sobre fondo blanco. No está mal, ya que vi el video completo y me preocupé lo suficiente como para recibir comentarios. Gracias, buen video.
nice...
For photo mask I use transparent film for laser printer
For polishing I use kitchen sponge (hard side)
I use water spray for attaching photoresist, it makes process more softly and adjustable
For lamination I use paper cover, to prevent thermal damage
For developing I use silicone glue, it work slowly but softly, you do not need care about proportion of mix
If I can approach that level of quality I'll be happy.
Very very nice Luis. Thanks a lot for sharing such knowledge.
Nicely explained , everything is clear to understand, Thanks.
Very good video/demomstration throughout. Thank you.
Desde luego que deja buenas impresiones. Hasta ahora he hecho muy pocas placas, para un par de proyectos caseros, y he usado la técnica del rotulador indeleble... pero viendo los buenos resultados que deja el uso de películas fotosensibles, creo que voy a cambiar de método en cuanto vea una placa que requiera cierta... finura a la hora de hacerla. Supongo que también se podría mejorar un poco la calidad de los acabados usando impresora láser en una lámina transparente... Mola, muy ilustrativo el vídeo, thumbs up!!
Hola Daniel: Efectivamente si es importante la calidad de la impresión, pero solo para afinar mucho, para un circuito con pistas anchas sin componentes SMD no es fundamental, si tienes que afinar mucho puedes encargar fotolitos en acetato, son más caros pero te sirven para muchas tiradas. Gracias por tu comentario.
Great video mate. Although at some points you could've sped the video up. One thing I wantrd to point out: for cleaning the copper I use a 10000 grid padd. It gives a much more equal and Smooth finish.
Muy bien explicado, buen video gracias por compartir tus conocimientos (Leonardo de Argentina
Brother, This has to be one of the best videos for dry film application. BTW, where can I find that test pattern? Another thing bro. I love toking to this video!!!!! 😌
Buen día. Excelente vídeo Luis, muchas gracias. he realizado varias de estas pero con otros métodos. Creo que va ha ser la mejor forma y mas efectiva. Éxitos desde Colombia.
عمملععلعلهلهانلنانللنلمملن🚱😴😨😨😨😨😨😧😧😧😢😢😢😢😢😧😧😧😧😧😈😈😈😈😈😈😈😈😈
Como no se me habia ocurrido esto sabiendo yo serigrafia gracias por el video=== thanks for share your video i trying now with serigraphy
Greatvideo. Been have ago at this myself today. I am having a lot of problems getting the film flat without bubbles you made it look very easy. But thanks for sharing regards Chris
I had the same problem but I found how to get it flat using a heardryer, I saw it here: th-cam.com/video/1C3k6dyVN18/w-d-xo.html
Encendiste los tubos fluorescentes reciclando el circuito de una bombilla fluorescente, hermoso..
Gracias por este video.Aqui se ve paso a paso lo que hay que hacer y como hacerlo.Saludos
fuaaaaaa que acavado mas prooo. que maquina usaste para sacarle las burbujas al film pegada con la vaquelita??
que hermoso trabajo!! 😍
You are a genius.thanks
Excellent demonstration - thanks for sharing.
Hi, its a joy to watch how beautiful the PCB being made in home easily. Could you please send us the aliexpress link that you bought the film from? I ordered two times and they sent me really crap item and was not wrinkle free. We would love to hear from you in this regard. Thank you in advance.
It works perfectly. Brilliant!!!
Excelente tutorial, el mejor explicado que he visto..
Sodium perborate is not easily supplied at my place. Perhaps I could replace it with sodium perchlorate that is in just about any oxy-action bleach in every household. I like how your PCB got etched so nicely with this combination of chemicals.
Thanks for your insight.
Great ! U are the man ! Nice job.
excelente!! muchas gracias, hago placas debes en cuando y siempre me olvido del proceso...
Amigo disculpa la pregunta has hecho la prueba. Ok materiales de acero, se puede hacer ese mismo método en otros metales te agradecería me pudieras confirmar
Hi! Thank you for this video. What is that machine at 6:25? A laminator? Thank you!
un merecido like...que puedes hacer con aquellas pistas?? rasparlas un poco??
Gracias amigo. Se puede intentar raspar un poco si la zona es pequeña, aunque lo correcto sería ajustar un poco mas de tiempo en el ácido para la próxima vez y seguro que sale perfecto.
Excelente trabalho, e que material ótimo esse, parabéns....
FYI Acetone is really really bad to handle with your bare hands. You would probably be better off using alcohol, but even a stronger solvent such as laquer thinner is better for you than Acetone.
Acetone affects your immune system by leaching oils out of your skin. You absorb a lot of it when handling it because of this....
As an ex-autobody shop owner and painter, I used acetone as a cheap solvent for years. I developed bad chemical allergies from handling the stuff too much. Seriously, it's much better to limit acetone use as much as possible ;)
-Jake
or just put a proper gloves - also cleaning with anything and then touching with fingers is counterproductive ..
Tell women that when they clean the polish off of thier nails with nail polish remover - aka Acetone.
Acetone might smell pungent but other than drying out your skin it dos not do much harm when used occasionally. Household alcohol @ 94% will be as flammable and will dry out your skin to the same extent - that's why it's used a "chemical" drying agent when preparing biology specimens. However, it will not be able to remove fatty acids or mineral oils from the work piece as good as a proper solvent does (ahhh, the days of trichloroethylene...). The amount of acetone absorbed via skin is neglible and it does not harm your respiratory system - unlike paint thinner which can cause "chemical pneumonia" (which can be lethal) even in small amounts. Repeated use certainly does affect nerves and brain - just like any solvent but for occasional use by amateurs it's probably even better than ethyl acetate.
@@f.d.6667 If Acetone did that much damage to the human body it wouldn't be sold to women as nail polish remover!
Acetone is also used for surgical adhesive dressing removal to remove the sticky residue from the skin, again this wouldn't be done if it was harmful, a little dry skin isn't a serious danger if it is just your hands. USE polythene gloves, nitrile rubber gloves are dissolved by acetone.
Excellent video, but in step 3 i have seen people using transparent sheet but you have used different kind of paper looks like normal paper you mentioned negative print on vegetable paper could you explain this step in detail I am in urgency.
The problem is that I don't know what this type of paper is called in other countries, in Spain it is onion paper or vegetable paper, which is cheaper than acetate transparencies. The important thing is that the paper must be transparent to UV light.
Thank you so much, I found that it is called tracing paper
Hola que tal, una consulta Cual es modelo de la enmicadora y si le has hecho alguna modificación o lo usas tal cual la compraste
según esos resultados, ¿ cuál es la menor distancia a la que podrían estar las pistas sin que se comuniquen?
Bueno en el video las pistas que estaban comunicadas tenian una separación de 0,1mm, yo creo que afinando más con un buen fotolito y con unos segundos más en el ácido hubieran quedado separadas. Yo creo que podrías conseguir 0,1mm de separación.
How do you use this papel cebolla? It looks according to the video that the image has been transferred via UV exposure. Are there any links showing how to prepare this papel cebolla for positive or negative exposure? After the papel cebolla is finished can you eat it?
papel cebolla?? What is it? Is it good to eat also? 😄
very good work
Where I bought the good kind of film
Using an old printer/scanner is genius!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Amigo sei que ó vídeo faz tempo mas me tirá uma dúvida pôr favor. Como faz pra inverter o fotolito? Ínverter onde tava preto fica branco como faz essa mágica kkk abraço valeu abrigado
Talvez em algum programa de photoshop
@@gabrielcaussi9050 obrigado amigo Grande abraço
buogiorno, volevo chiedere se il master deve essere in negativo o positivo, grazie
My issue is using the light blue photoresist and ArcAiN6, perhaps that is the problem! Using photoresist to do 2-sided PCBs and so far, after exposure, placing into the sodium carbonate, one side turns out great...the other side rinses right off!!! WTH?!! Placing the film on both sides? Done the same exact way! SOOOO...? Any thoughts? I use a normal laminator but I put the PCB(s) in right from start and just continue to push though until they start to get hot.
Good video,how to make UV Box as you did?
the lihmghting tool that kills moskitos
La acetona debe ser acetona pura?
most important for a good result is the artwork film and the exposure unit. a one light bulb source is still the best way to go.
at the moment working on a real artwork making plotter to exposure film. toner transfer is okay for basic work and one off pcb's
Buenas noches tendrás algún video de como fabricaste la insoladora. Gracias
Great video! You make the process look simple and easy. I use the same process and I have an issue with the laminator. I have to make three passes otherwise the film does not stick firmly. The problem is that at the last pass for single sided boards and at the second pass for the double sided boards (that are thicker) I get some kind of clear traces. Have you ever had this issue? If so what was the solution?
It has never happened to me, every laminator is different, especially the domestic ones,
Some make more pressure and others less, the same with the temperature. You always have the option of doing it with an iron.
Thank you Luis. Like you said it may be because of the strong pressure. The one I use is an office one. It expects thin papers so with a thick pcb it applies a lot of pressure indeed. I tried to loosen it a little but it may damage it once and for all. I guess I'll keep it with two passes for now until I find a laminator that is more suitable for PCBs.
Please what is the program you used to draw the circuit?
Hola, cuales son las proporciones que utilizaste de ácido clorhídrico y el perborato?
Hola. Y cómo desechar la mezcla con ácido clorhídrico?
Hab ein frage unter welche licht machen sie das dry film schicht ?
@Luis Acebal At 9.53 secs, how did the UV lamp shine through the paper with the pcb design on it, was it acetate or a clear paper you printed it on?
what laminator you have used ? how can we adjust thickness of laminator to PCB thickness ?
Background music was nice 👍👍👍
Well done
Why do you need to laminate it?. Does it is used to avoid bubbles or to transfer some layer from film to pcb?
As pub boards are ready with holes and soldered then how to make them the circuit
Hello,
If you are not happy with the exposure result, can you clean the pcb with acetone?
Thank you very much for this video, but what are the proportions of HCl and sodium perborate please?
excelente video
Good video but your method dont work for me.
After etching I cannot get the hardened dryfilm off the board with acetone.
Can you link the dryfilm you are using (cause mine seems to be made of different components).
Thanks!
That is not possible.
Have you removed the second protective film (11:04)?
It is quite usual to forget,
Although in that case neither the development nor the etching process would work
Bonjour
A 6:00 de vôtre vidéo vous passez le pcb dans une machine.
Qu'elle est cette machine et où peut-on cela procurer ?
Merci
Hello, very good video!
Can you please post the circuit pdf or give me the link where you take it.
I like that design. I was looking on web but I didn't found it!
thank you!
Hi! What kind of printer do you use to print the negative?
And another question. The process needs to be done in a dark room?
Muy buena técnica
Hello. Thank you for this video. In the past I have only used Toner Transfer film, an electric iron, and Ferric Chloride. What is the advantage of this kind of film? Better resolution? What about the chemicals? They seem more dangerous, are they just faster, or are they more precise than ferric chloride?
Hi friend, Good question, I have not yet made any particular comparison of the two techniques, but It is possible that the next video I made is a comparison with the method you say and the same test circuit, So far I've already got 100 sheets of toner transfer paper. Regarding chemicals, the fundamental difference is the etching speed, with ferric chloride I remember having to leave it overnight. Thanks and regards.
Hello! Thank You for this great video tutorial. One question - the test pcb - is it your own project or have you found it somewhere on the web?
Hi! could you share the test pattern you used? If you have the Kicad project would be great, but a .pdf will be enough. I want to test the precision I get at home. Thanks!
Muy buen video, que Laminadora utilizaste?
Una plastificadora doméstica de 20 euros
Excelente video! Encontré que se puede comprar el film en ebay. Una pregunta. Si no se dispone de luces UV, es posible utilizar luces fluorecentes aumentando el tiempo de exposición? Puedo reemplazar el papel mantequilla por acetato impreso en laser? Gracias por tu respuesta!
Lo mejor y más barato tiras led UV, que las puedes encontrar tiradas de precio. Un consejo, revisalas antes de montar la insoladora pq muchas veces hay led fundidos y podría salir mal el proyecto por eso.
Muy buen video
nice video, thanks. I was thinking that is the film protective layers heat resistant enough to print directly on that?
NO, it is not heat resistant for that, it will stick on the printer rollers. do NOT try :)
In the European Union, sodium perborate, like most borates, was classified as "carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction" (CMR)
Hola muy bueno ¿que químico usas como revelador, es soda caustica?
Can we use making with dry film?
does this work to silicon as well or only to copper
What is the distance between the fluorescent lamps and the scanner glass?
10:30 What did he mean by removing unexposed areas when he did the thing with sodium carbonate?
I considered the pcb as simply ready for etching!
I didn't understand that...
Only the film that is not covered by the template he printed out (the negative) is exposed to the light. It blocks the light from the portions that you'll eventually want to etch. You remove the unexposed film which exposes the copper that you want to dissolve in your etching fluid.
@@kevoice thank you, please bare with me.
At 11:03 he removed the film already. Then at 11:06 he soaked it in sodium carbonate, what for?
I understand we need to remove the film in order later to expose the "desired to etch" copper area to etching solution like FeCl3, but why the sodium carbonate?
@@youssefdirani The sodium carbonate functions like a developing solution. It will wash away the parts that weren't exposed to the UV. If you don't remove all of the unexposed film, it will end up blocking your etching solution and you'll end up with a blotchy board, bridged traces, etc. The sodium carbonate should wash away everything but the circuit design you exposed onto the film.
@kevoice Ok. So even after removing the film 11:03, the unexposed area is not just copper! It is something else that needs to be washed using sodium carbonate to have just copper.
Then we may etch the copper.
what is the shelf life of photoresist film ? i mean how long will it remain good if unexposed?
also, i think inkjet printer on plastic sheet would make better results.
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing your experience. Question: what kind of laminator you used? Who is the vendor? Thanks again.
Hola sabes si para el revelado se puede usar tambien sosa caustica disuelta en agua como con las placas positivas?
Es que tengo un monton de sosa caustica para las placas positivas y si sirve para este revelado, no he de comprar 25kg de carbonato de sodio que es el unico formato que venden en mi zona.
Puedes hacerte tu propio carbonato sódico simplemente calentando en una sartén bicarbonato sódico.
Muy agradecido por este tutorial, anima a intentarlo, serias tan amable de pasarme el positivo, Gracias.
Ahí va el positivo, un saludodrive.google.com/file/d/0B5jwXBvF1yvpcTQyenhWTmVtYUU/view?usp=sharing
@@cantacucos Thanks!
For negatives what printer you used inkjet?
I didn't try it yet, but I'm sure that the type of the paint in the printer (if that's what you ask) doesn't matter until it stops the UV light from passing through.
para el etching puede usarse en vez de esos quimicos, otros metodos? gracias.
Que yo conozca se puede usar además el cloruro férrico que es más lento, y luego ácido clorhídrico + peroxido de hidrógeno, este es el más asequible ya que puedes encontrar los dos ingredientes en cualquier supermercado, comunmente salfuman (en España) y agua oxigenada, son baratos y es bastante rápido pero hay que tener cuidado con las concentraciones. Me apunto el tema para un futuro video, un saludo.
Que es el ácido Clothídrico y el peroxido de hidrógeno como para encontrarlo en un supermercado? para que se usan en la casa?
ya encontré es ácido muriatico en Arg. + agua destilada?
Felicitarte, por la claridad de la exposición, y de paso preguntarte, si sabes las proporciones de los productos químicos, para el estañado frio, por inmersión.
De todas formas muchas gracias, a que no sabia, como utilizar este film
vegetal paper? is that wax paper? and do I need to expose it with a fancy lightbox or can I just use a table lamp?
You need UV light, at a stable distance and from that adjust the exposure time. All what the box does is that.
I dont know the name of this kind of paper in english, but must be transparent for UV, for example acetate film
You could use transparencies.
I think that the name is Tracing paper
Thanks more steps but less mess !
Which brand of dry film is this?
Hola, me parece muy interesante el metodo, voy a probarlo, pero tengo antes la duda de como te deshaces de los desechos quimicos?, los echas al drenaje?, tengo entendido que si mezclas el acido clorhidrico con bicarbonato de sodio se neutraliza y se puede echar al drenaje. Gracias y Saludos!
Bueno, los desechos químicos se deberían llevar a un punto de reciclaje, debido a que tienen metales disueltos. Si fuese solo por el ácido lo puedes neutralizar o diluir y luego desechar tal como se hace con la lejía. Cuidadito con almacenarlo en recipientes, porque produce gases, aumenta la presión y puede explotar, y además al abrirlo te puede saltar a la cara.
Can I use hot air gun to laminate that film on pcb?
Hola, se puede usar cualquier laminadora? Quiero comprar una pero no se si cualquiera permite meterle una pcb de 1mm o 2mm de grosor. Gracias!