Thanks, straight up vid .Between some of my kids and I we have 5 of these, 2x tojo C34 and 3x hilux C14. Drive shafts, perfect advice, they will fail easy. Cheap upgrade though. Definatly put a smile on our dials many times, decent little trucks for the money and upgradeable.
Glad to hear it! Since I made this video, WPL has really stepped up their game. Even the newer drive shafts are miles better than these were. I am even digging the new electronics.
Just got one of these kits. I'm the guy your talking about. I know this an old video but it helps even now. This is going to be our first trail / crawler.. I made the right choice in the kit from the sounds of it. Thanks for the video..👍
@@AMPROEngineering Figure its better to learn on a kit anyway. I am a total noob with the scale stuff. 3dprintermay have to get fired up though..Thanks
I painted my hood in flat black, and the left front fender in primer grey. The bed liner in black too. Add a 370 motor and 2-sp trans, metal D-shafts, and bigger battery. For about $75 I had a neat, little semi-hobby grade trail truck. You really can't beat these little trucks for the money.
Thanks for the video. I love these little trucks. So much fun putting them together, upgrading, customising You are right there are tons of videos on TH-cam you can learn things about these trucks. Paint job on both your trucks looks fantastic 👍
I have one of these and it's a lot of fun. Probably one of the better $/smile values in surface RC these days. Like you, I have lots of other RC buggies, trail trucks etc but I wanted something small and slow to run indoors on a rainy day -- and to annoy Sadie (my yellow lab). This one does both jobs very well. haha... Thanks for the excellent video!!
I like so much for the cheapest rc it's very enjoy to play with it and most importantly is I can save my budget and not wasting my money for buy rc and then upgrade it into metal parts or etc.. It's makes everyone happy..actually a long time ago I was so happy and excited to buy some Rc like this but sadness is, it's to much expensive for me that time so I was not really happy after all and then I stop thinking for buy any Rc and it's not enjoyable for me.. But since China make this Rc I'm very happy for it because a lot of them are very cheapers and everyone can buy it for fun.. That's important to me because when everyone can buy it we can enjoy it everywhere we go and playing together hahaha..i love China people they saved me from everything 😆😁
Great video , THANK you for stressing the Lipo batteries safety points I see so many people using these 4$ esc's with lipos so dangerous when a simple esc like the HobbyWing 1625's have Lipo low voltage cut off. Love your videos keep the information rolling on these lil #WPL trucks, love the super simple paint schema for this one , keep having fun
I took my WPL C24 for the first ride yesterday and yea you were right, 10 minutes and it broke the front transmission shaft 😂 I superglued it and I hope it holds a little longer. Its my first big RC but I’m happy because its cheap and easy to tinker with.
It seems newer ones are better (my C54-1 has had stock ones for about 50 packs) and they are still fine. I think they are much bigger than the other C-series cars.
I'm going back into the hobby after a decade. My old Tamiya did not survive the migration and move to Germany, so need a new kit. Also, hoping to take my kid along for the ride. So these WPL with their low entry price and affordable hop-ups are really viable as a start. Thx for confirming in the video.
suggest 2S lithium ion battery, not near as finicky as LiPo. cheap-cheap mods! M3 half threaded cap screws, 50 mm length, cut off leaving 5/16" of the threads to CA into the shock bottoms, carefully grind+polish the cap heads down to fit inside the shock bodies, gains about 5 mm negative suspension travel at the shock is quite a bit more at the wheels and end to end total twist/flex. X-acto hobby saw blade is perfect for making the hood open, also for cutting off the inside tire beads of spare rims to sand flat and CA to the outsides of another set of rims. sidewalls aren't pinched in at the rims so they're more vertical, tires stay mounted lots better, gains about 3/16" to 1/4" of width. chrome painted looks "deep dish" too. the JJRC axles with the diffs locked up (clean well and CA them inside) are about 1/8" wider than WPL and have MUCH larger bevel gears. plastic, but they hold up very well. if you want even wider, go with the Fayee 6 spoke rims+tires, with the JJRC axles and Fayee rims it's 3/4" wider than stock WPL, looks good on C-14, not C-24. for the C-24 look to the widened stock rims mentioned above. my C-14 with the JJRC axles, longer shock rods, Fayee rims, is a budget BEAST! :) front wheel weight: 2 mm solder wire. for WPL rims CA the start point, 3 turns and small flat screwdriver to make the step-over tight, then step up repeat twice. finish with slicing electric tape a little wider than needed and stretch 3 wraps on with a spot of CA at the end to keep it locked. for the Fayee rims on C-14 you can wrap 1 layer of solder is 8 turns, but for MN-D90 go 2 full wraps for needing more up front. slicing the hood to open (mentioned above), after cutting, a narrow strip of plastic inside the fenders both sides, and a small 3/8" wide bit of plastic center/top outside, the hood will snap into place. cutting the "tubes" shorter for lowering the inner tray gives room for 2S 16500 size lithium ion cell up front, may not need front wheel weights at that point. tires: clipping out the rows of the "3 dots" down the center of the tread, and the corresponding lugs at the corners gives the soft kit tires a LOT more bite. in combination with the widened stock rims mentioned above, the center of the tread is a little softer, the remaining wider lugs at the corners roll into the dirt even more. you'll see what I mean if you do both, and do a little poking/dragging your fingers around the tires, the action is something else. the newer C-14 kits do come with brass bevel pinion+ring gears, and the 5 gear tan colored gearbox is plenty of torque from a 180 motor, if the bevel gears in the axles aren't binding at all. if they do, sticky back foam sheet is easy to use for making axle input cover gaskets to give the bevel gears a little clearance, don't tighten the screws too much and they'll run smooth/easy. sorry the comment is a full PAGE... but its all fun stuff for the WPL type rigs.
Wow thanks! I will actually add this to the description. I love your idea for the shocks quite a lot. I do like the open JJRC diffs for my applications but it is amazing what that does to the offroading abilities.
@@AMPROEngineering the extra 4.5 mm of shock rods gives near twice that at the wheels, is really just enough extra flex to crawl more seriously for its size+scale. 10 of those cap screws was only 4 bucks. new trick: take a paper punch to sticky back foam sheet to make 4 discs, give each a center hole, slide halfway onto the shock shaft, drag a pin point of CA around the underside of the screw head and press the foam sheet disc flat against it. carefully tuck it into the shock body with a drop of oil, you have some friction damping for literally pennies, its just enough to stop all the bouncing around.
Agreed! The shafts are definitely the first to go. In my C14 I made the mistake of getting the RTR version so modifying it was a little heftier than yours. I did swap out the servo, and now I'm running the 370 motor (with gear reduction) and the metal transfer case. This truck really crawls now! Pretty substantial torque for a little guy too. I also got the Surpass Hobby 6 ch radio (about 30 bucks with receiver) so the control is fantastic. I can switch the lights on and off now and there's still the option of the winch (you can get those in eBay). I haven't done any work to the axles or links yet...honestly? They work fine! If they ever break I'll look at it then. I do run a 3s LiPo in it as the ESC I got is fine with that. Fantastic power and decent run time. If you do go LiPo, wiring in a 'fuel gauge' or battery meter/alarm is a good idea. Spot on review, sir! These are great little tinker trucks.
AMPRO Engineering , BIG TIME! Hahahaha. But with time there's less and less stock parts on this thing and it's turning into a legit little crawler. We got fresh snow here last night and the little C14 handles it like a boss. We're definitely going to be installing tracks within the next few weeks. Winter here lasts 8 months so we definitely have to build them 'snow ready'. Hehehehe
Your videos are great! With no instructions on ANY of the B-16 upgrades (WPL product support???) I would have certainly committed this truck to "Weber Hell." As it is, this second truck (a store replacement for the first one with a failed motor) lasted for 6 minutes and 32 seconds before the drive shaft shattered. Your instructions are clear, concise and entertaining. Nice to see another with a Dad with video "interrupting" son. I share the same fledgling actor in my 6 year old. Well, time to get back to drive shaft assembly. Two down. One to go. (This is not relaxing!) I look forward to your upgrade videos.
That annoys me to no end, I mean is it that hard to have a tiny sheet of paper with even a semblance of "how to"? The worse is JunFac in Korea. I bought a 4 link kit from them years ago and nothing, zero instructions. Thanks a lot for the kind words!
Thanks for enlightening me.. Jst wanted to start trying the hobby.. Dont have the financial freedom to throw in for this.. This helped me a lot to decide. Nice vids.. Thanks dude..
Oh im glad you liked it. So many people throw money are RC's to make them better but to be honest, a lot of them are pretty good as is. This car is a gem for sure.
thank you for your video, much better than mine shot in my kitchen or dining room !!!! you're absolutely right it's useless to put too many options on this model that is already very good original, only on the RTR version the engine is too weak. what is fun is that everyone will do what he wants by modifying it according to what he seeks to finally achieve very different results and for a very reasonable price.
Very true. I love to modify things, dont get me wrong, but I am not the target for this car. At this price (with new electrics), its not bad...minus the motor power and those driveshafts.
yup, the earlier ones especially, as quick as the wheels start hammering you're stripping plastic axle bevel gears or snapping plastic drive shafts, if its got the #316 gearbox and 180 motor. the newer kits are much better with brass axle gears and tan gearbox.
I have the same transmitter, I've seen people bashing on them saying that they aren't very good i beg to differ. I love mine. I've even had some people say that it looks super fancy and high tech, but it's super affordable. I highly recommend them.
I got the rtr a couple of months ago and the steering didn’t make the awful noise and the drive shafts never broke but my motor got something in and blew so I ordered a 5 dollar motor that has more tourqe
Thanks for the great insight and suggestions. I bought the C14-MK kit which on the surface is a great kit. Tons of metal upgraded parts from the differential gears, axels, drive shafts and so on. the kit also comes with a spare bigger motor and trans than the non KM kit as well as other extra parts. Unfortunately, the fit and finish is un-acceptable. The two speed transmission while it does somewhat work do not expect too much from from it. The kit was also missing pieces, like one of the two frame rails and a bag of screws. Did you have any issues with the two speed trans? I do really like the hard body Hi-lux body and would love to install it on a higher quality RC truck kit, any suggestions? thanks again for the great content.
Wow, weird. No i have never had any issue with the 2 speed and I think I have 6 of them. Early WPL kits were a mess. The newer ones are unreal. They have done a great job with their QC.
Alberto good to see I'm not only one to fill the stock roll bar light bar. the legs of 5 mm LED's are BARELY long enough to reach across the top, have to "float" about 1 mm gap for the bottom/shorter legs. headphone wire is really convenient small to send power. edit: OH... a couple 220 ohm resistors, drill rear for 3 mm LED's and connect to the motor leads, you have reverse lights for pennies too. use about any little 2 pin connector so you can take the body off for working on the beast.
Very nice. I could not resist the LED's lol! I have a JST connector so the shell can come off and not deal with the wires so that is a plus. I have some lenses coming soon too!
@@AMPROEngineering WPL has done a good job of listening to their customers and improving their products. The C34KM is their newest model and it is leaps better that the initial models.
I bought the red wpl c14 rtr version and i understand that is shit but it was $40 plus i have a hobbygrade rc crawler that needs a new front end and i can't fly to the usa just to get the parts so i plan on putting the esc the 380 brushed motor the shocks transmitter and servo onto the c14 if they fit and then later on i will buy the kit c24 and make that into a epic rock crawler i just got the rtr cause it was cheap and i just wanted a cheapy to build a boat trailer for my brushed rc boat the udi009 rapid goes pretty good btw. I know this video is old but do you still have these?.
Nice video. Do you know where I can get a set of the kit/soft tires? I see them on ebay and aliexpress but I want to be sure that Im getting the SOFT compound. Also if you do the mod to the gt3b firmware, its a bit of a learning curve for all the added things. Watch youtube videos to get an idea what its like. Theres also a manual you can print off into booklet form to carry with you. The mod can also be done to the GT3C.
eBay is also the place that I get the tires. I just trust that the auction is actually the soft ones. I heard about the firmware update I’m going to have to try that even though that’s something I usually don’t like
yup, the older #316 black gearbox is TOO wimpy, but in my C-24 I grafted two of them together (both gear covers still removable) for a 130 motor powering each axle. it worked out surprisingly well. if you try it you'll see how they can nest together "69" configuration.
I definitly need to try out flysky brand. My conversion sets ups i run all spektrum and spketrum receivers very pricy over many rc's and builds lol great infamational video great channel..
Great video and very informative. You might like to check the MN-99s. It's an absurdly good 1/12 rtr Land Rover for 50 dollars! Fully compatible with wpl parts, soft tires, good slow speed control...
@@AMPROEngineering yip, i've done it. there was a walkthrough on the tube that i followed. the gt3c is good as is, but 8 channel capability sounded good at the time (never needed more than three really). and i guess i'm just a 'fix it till its broke' kinda guy.
@@AMPROEngineering I did it to one of mine about 7 years ago. Definitely worth it for the added adjustments. Model memory I could care less about. Cant really remember all the details now. The modification to the transmitter was very easy for the "programming" lead. As for the firmware upload, it took me a few tries to get everything working.
All in the WPL section in my store. They only come in ultra detailed polyjet prints. This means they are not for bashing. www.shapeways.com/shops/ampro?section=WPL+Cars&s=0
I raised two girls quiet is not part of their vocabulary:-) now I have a cat starts going off when I tape a video :-) ordered my first one actually two going to do a build with my grandson. Got panda Hobby for him yesterday but they’ve switched to junk electronics. So it’s going back and the 6 x 6 was canceled. This will be better for him to learn assembly and repair.
@@AMPROEngineering I have four grandsons. We were looking forward to collecting them all. Hopefully they will bring back the good radios. And the banner he’s driving me crazy about the banner :-)
There is a link in the description to get this right from WPL. The one you see here was the "plastic kit" version but it needs electronics. They have an RTR and an all metal kit version too.
Is the front and wear windows removable for easier painting or do u just mask it off? I really like what u did with the blue one and was thinking of something similar, i just ordered a blue one and now playing the waiting game.
Hi wondering if I could ask a favour. Thinking of buying one to use as a donar chassis for my Fall Guy Clodbuster shell so could you possibly let me know the wheelbase or better still if ypu have a Clod shell offer one up to it. Love your vids and would be very happy if could find out the wheebase of the standard one
Oh man, may I make a suggestion? Take a look at episode 197. That chassis is way better for your application. It will need to be stretched a bit it is WAY better to start with than the WPL. I was actually planning on that too!
Hello ... my name is izaias I am from Brazil and I am thinking of purchasing a model like this. but I worry about his weight and because he’s very fast. Question. How to put a speed controller? the penalty? I'm starting and at the price I found it affordable. thank you
Hello there, thanks for reaching out. This car is very light and not very fast but that is the purpose of it. It is not designed to be fast. For speed control installation, I did a video covering this. Simply search AMPRO WPL Here on TH-cam and you will see it. It is a tan military vehicle. The penalty of installing the speed control means you must replace all of the electronics
What I really want is not speed, but relative strength. I only care about the control being too sensitive when pulling the trigger. so do you think it is worth purchasing this model?
I see you have a roll bar on yours. I’ve been looking everywhere for a normal offroad rollbar for it, but they’re all either really long or a full cage. Do you know where I can find a normal rollbar or a website where i can 3d print it?
Ok....maybe someone here can help me since I've posted this other places and nobody seems to know. I have the c24 r2r. I was unaware of the upgrades on the kit but it's too late now. I have already upgraded the tires and wheels and have metal axels, drive lines, suspension and most other metal parts still to put on. Here is my issue. I see all these trucks with a metal bumper. I bought a metal bumper and when I went to take off the original bumper the grill and lights come off with it. It's all one piece. So do they really expect you to take a dremel to it and cut the old one in half? Seems stupid to me and I am unable to find just the grill for the c24. Seems the c14 has square lights and the 24 has round. Am I missing something here? Has anyone installed a metal bumper on the C24 and if so how did you do it? As far as electronics go what do I need for the steering, servo, esc, and a controller? Thanks in advance
Oh yeah I know what's wrong. So the C14 isn't just the different head lights, the bottom of the front end isnt there. It is cut off higher than the C24 is to accommodate the grille. Look close at the one in the video and you will see what i mean. I didnt realized it until I tried swapping the front ends and discovered that my stock C24 bumper had nowhere to attach! Either trim the front or get a C14 front end.
Cool videos and cool Trucks! But, please take not these crappy esc!! TB-60025 is the one i use with stock gearbox,, motor and servo. It makes a beast of a crawler, you tab the throttle slightly and it crawles almost over everything. Edit: these esc are a quite cheap and very nice. with a 370 motor (single or 2speed) it makes a really good and cheap crawler, and when you spend only between 20$ and 25$ per month for upgrades you have a real heavy duty crawler in 3 to 4 months.
Oh yes I use these a lot now. These little ones are so hit or miss. I would say 1 in 4 are trash. I do have to say that when you get a working one, they are pretty good but its not worth the effort.
@@AMPROEngineering Then I have a good one😁 But to see how the esc work that you use, I have ordered two. If they are so good as they are cheap than they are really the best for a cheap and good crawler build. Thanks for your answer on these old video, I like your content very much and you got now a new subscriber🤗
@@AlphamenschRC Oh not a problem! U always reply to new comments (replys to my replies are a bit hard to so usually i just cant). These are awesome cars and anything to make them better is always good!
The driveshafts SHOULD be the weak point. Now your gearbox is the failure point. I would be happy to make a 5 minute driveshaft replacement on the trail. I would NOT however want to tear a trans apart on the trail for a stripped plastic gear. Same with my 1:1 Jeep, a U joint or driveshaft is a quick and cheap trail repair, a busted axle shaft is $$$ and a shot transfer case is $$$ and the end of your day. You always intentionally leave the cheapest, most simplistic failure point(s) in a driveline.
Thanks, straight up vid .Between some of my kids and I we have 5 of these, 2x tojo C34 and 3x hilux C14. Drive shafts, perfect advice, they will fail easy.
Cheap upgrade though. Definatly put a smile on our dials many times, decent little trucks for the money and upgradeable.
Glad to hear it! Since I made this video, WPL has really stepped up their game. Even the newer drive shafts are miles better than these were. I am even digging the new electronics.
Just got one of these kits. I'm the guy your talking about. I know this an old video but it helps even now. This is going to be our first trail / crawler.. I made the right choice in the kit from the sounds of it. Thanks for the video..👍
It is a solid kit for sure. With a few tweaks, it can be a great little performer.
@@AMPROEngineering Figure its better to learn on a kit anyway. I am a total noob with the scale stuff. 3dprintermay have to get fired up though..Thanks
I painted my hood in flat black, and the left front fender in primer grey. The bed liner in black too.
Add a 370 motor and 2-sp trans, metal D-shafts, and bigger battery. For about $75 I had a neat, little semi-hobby grade trail truck.
You really can't beat these little trucks for the money.
I agree. I think these are amazing for their prices.
Thanks for the video. I love these little trucks. So much fun putting them together, upgrading, customising
You are right there are tons of videos on TH-cam you can learn things about these trucks.
Paint job on both your trucks looks fantastic 👍
Well thank you so much! I always hope that people understand you dont need to drop a fortune on something to make it fun.
I have one of these and it's a lot of fun. Probably one of the better $/smile values in surface RC these days. Like you, I have lots of other RC buggies, trail trucks etc but I wanted something small and slow to run indoors on a rainy day -- and to annoy Sadie (my yellow lab). This one does both jobs very well. haha... Thanks for the excellent video!!
Exactly! It is nice to have something small and slow sometimes.
I recently bought the WPL C24-1 -KM along with a metal servo upgrade and a cap, and I cant wait to put it together!
It is a great truck. I love my C24.
没想到这东西在外国这么受欢迎，简直是中国RC的荣耀。在中文论坛上，也有不少人在这个车上一掷千金，花了上千人民币来改装它。确实是一辆便宜好玩的入门车。
是的，他们在这里很受欢迎。我认为这个较小的尺寸允许人们为他们制作更多的3D打印部件，因为它们的打印成本要低得多。我喜欢这个尺寸。它足够小，可以旅行，大到足以在户外使用。另外，我喜欢坚硬的身体。新的C34是另一个杰作！
What ????????
I like so much for the cheapest rc it's very enjoy to play with it and most importantly is I can save my budget and not wasting my money for buy rc and then upgrade it into metal parts or etc.. It's makes everyone happy..actually a long time ago I was so happy and excited to buy some Rc like this but sadness is, it's to much expensive for me that time so I was not really happy after all and then I stop thinking for buy any Rc and it's not enjoyable for me.. But since China make this Rc I'm very happy for it because a lot of them are very cheapers and everyone can buy it for fun.. That's important to me because when everyone can buy it we can enjoy it everywhere we go and playing together hahaha..i love China people they saved me from everything 😆😁
I totally agree, this truck lets you have something RC and fun for very little. You do not need to spends hundreds to get this kind of fun.
Hey I’m extremely late but I just bought one and was wondering what a good lift kit would be for this or big tires
Fred
Great video , THANK you for stressing the Lipo batteries safety points I see so many people using these 4$ esc's with lipos so dangerous when a simple esc like the HobbyWing 1625's have Lipo low voltage cut off. Love your videos keep the information rolling on these lil #WPL trucks, love the super simple paint schema for this one , keep having fun
Sure thing! Exactly, I think people are unaware of how dangerous LiPo batteries are. Thanks!
yes, 2S 18650 or 16500 lithium ion are much more appropriate.
Wise words,and when you do upgrades a little slower you get to compare them and also build up experience of if they are actually any better or not.
Correct. It is stronger now and more reliable.
I took my WPL C24 for the first ride yesterday and yea you were right, 10 minutes and it broke the front transmission shaft 😂
I superglued it and I hope it holds a little longer.
Its my first big RC but I’m happy because its cheap and easy to tinker with.
It seems newer ones are better (my C54-1 has had stock ones for about 50 packs) and they are still fine. I think they are much bigger than the other C-series cars.
I'm going back into the hobby after a decade. My old Tamiya did not survive the migration and move to Germany, so need a new kit. Also, hoping to take my kid along for the ride. So these WPL with their low entry price and affordable hop-ups are really viable as a start. Thx for confirming in the video.
Great to hear. I am a huge fan of these.
I used mine heaps, had it in the cupboard for 2 years, pulled it back out been using it again. easily one of the best "toy" purchases I have made
suggest 2S lithium ion battery, not near as finicky as LiPo.
cheap-cheap mods!
M3 half threaded cap screws, 50 mm length, cut off leaving 5/16" of the threads to CA into the shock bottoms, carefully grind+polish the cap heads down to fit inside the shock bodies, gains about 5 mm negative suspension travel at the shock is quite a bit more at the wheels and end to end total twist/flex.
X-acto hobby saw blade is perfect for making the hood open, also for cutting off the inside tire beads of spare rims to sand flat and CA to the outsides of another set of rims. sidewalls aren't pinched in at the rims so they're more vertical, tires stay mounted lots better, gains about 3/16" to 1/4" of width. chrome painted looks "deep dish" too.
the JJRC axles with the diffs locked up (clean well and CA them inside) are about 1/8" wider than WPL and have MUCH larger bevel gears. plastic, but they hold up very well.
if you want even wider, go with the Fayee 6 spoke rims+tires, with the JJRC axles and Fayee rims it's 3/4" wider than stock WPL, looks good on C-14, not C-24. for the C-24 look to the widened stock rims mentioned above.
my C-14 with the JJRC axles, longer shock rods, Fayee rims, is a budget BEAST! :)
front wheel weight: 2 mm solder wire. for WPL rims CA the start point, 3 turns and small flat screwdriver to make the step-over tight, then step up repeat twice. finish with slicing electric tape a little wider than needed and stretch 3 wraps on with a spot of CA at the end to keep it locked. for the Fayee rims on C-14 you can wrap 1 layer of solder is 8 turns, but for MN-D90 go 2 full wraps for needing more up front.
slicing the hood to open (mentioned above), after cutting, a narrow strip of plastic inside the fenders both sides, and a small 3/8" wide bit of plastic center/top outside, the hood will snap into place. cutting the "tubes" shorter for lowering the inner tray gives room for 2S 16500 size lithium ion cell up front, may not need front wheel weights at that point.
tires: clipping out the rows of the "3 dots" down the center of the tread, and the corresponding lugs at the corners gives the soft kit tires a LOT more bite. in combination with the widened stock rims mentioned above, the center of the tread is a little softer, the remaining wider lugs at the corners roll into the dirt even more. you'll see what I mean if you do both, and do a little poking/dragging your fingers around the tires, the action is something else.
the newer C-14 kits do come with brass bevel pinion+ring gears, and the 5 gear tan colored gearbox is plenty of torque from a 180 motor, if the bevel gears in the axles aren't binding at all. if they do, sticky back foam sheet is easy to use for making axle input cover gaskets to give the bevel gears a little clearance, don't tighten the screws too much and they'll run smooth/easy.
sorry the comment is a full PAGE... but its all fun stuff for the WPL type rigs.
Wow thanks! I will actually add this to the description. I love your idea for the shocks quite a lot. I do like the open JJRC diffs for my applications but it is amazing what that does to the offroading abilities.
@@AMPROEngineering the extra 4.5 mm of shock rods gives near twice that at the wheels, is really just enough extra flex to crawl more seriously for its size+scale. 10 of those cap screws was only 4 bucks. new trick: take a paper punch to sticky back foam sheet to make 4 discs, give each a center hole, slide halfway onto the shock shaft, drag a pin point of CA around the underside of the screw head and press the foam sheet disc flat against it. carefully tuck it into the shock body with a drop of oil, you have some friction damping for literally pennies, its just enough to stop all the bouncing around.
Agreed! The shafts are definitely the first to go. In my C14 I made the mistake of getting the RTR version so modifying it was a little heftier than yours. I did swap out the servo, and now I'm running the 370 motor (with gear reduction) and the metal transfer case. This truck really crawls now! Pretty substantial torque for a little guy too. I also got the Surpass Hobby 6 ch radio (about 30 bucks with receiver) so the control is fantastic. I can switch the lights on and off now and there's still the option of the winch (you can get those in eBay). I haven't done any work to the axles or links yet...honestly? They work fine! If they ever break I'll look at it then. I do run a 3s LiPo in it as the ESC I got is fine with that. Fantastic power and decent run time. If you do go LiPo, wiring in a 'fuel gauge' or battery meter/alarm is a good idea. Spot on review, sir! These are great little tinker trucks.
I had an RTR also and man...what a pain to change the driveshafts!
AMPRO Engineering , BIG TIME! Hahahaha. But with time there's less and less stock parts on this thing and it's turning into a legit little crawler. We got fresh snow here last night and the little C14 handles it like a boss. We're definitely going to be installing tracks within the next few weeks. Winter here lasts 8 months so we definitely have to build them 'snow ready'. Hehehehe
I love the blue door. Great job on the build and the video.
Thank you!
Your videos are great! With no instructions on ANY of the B-16 upgrades (WPL product support???) I would have certainly committed this truck to "Weber Hell." As it is, this second truck (a store replacement for the first one with a failed motor) lasted for 6 minutes and 32 seconds before the drive shaft shattered. Your instructions are clear, concise and entertaining. Nice to see another with a Dad with video "interrupting" son. I share the same fledgling actor in my 6 year old. Well, time to get back to drive shaft assembly. Two down. One to go. (This is not relaxing!) I look forward to your upgrade videos.
That annoys me to no end, I mean is it that hard to have a tiny sheet of paper with even a semblance of "how to"? The worse is JunFac in Korea. I bought a 4 link kit from them years ago and nothing, zero instructions. Thanks a lot for the kind words!
Great video just got one of these kits and am doing a full metal kit build with a brushless setup a a spectrum receiver
Nice these are solid little cars.
I still have fun with my wpl models. Customizing the hard bodies are so fun. Im about to put new driveshafts on the c24 monster truck i built.
I know, there is something about them that I love!
Thanks for enlightening me.. Jst wanted to start trying the hobby.. Dont have the financial freedom to throw in for this.. This helped me a lot to decide. Nice vids.. Thanks dude..
Same reason i'm here! I want to try it out, and this seems like a good truck to start off with!
Oh im glad you liked it. So many people throw money are RC's to make them better but to be honest, a lot of them are pretty good as is. This car is a gem for sure.
It totally is. I have tons of RC's and these little WPL cars have won me over.
@@AMPROEngineering i hope to see more of your videos. It cost a fortune to be on the rc hobby here in the philippines.. More power to your channel.
Love my Wpl C 24 K, done the same metal prop shafts perfect 👊🏻👍🏻
Oh for sure!
thank you for your video, much better than mine shot in my kitchen or dining room !!!! you're absolutely right it's useless to put too many options on this model that is already very good original, only on the RTR version the engine is too weak. what is fun is that everyone will do what he wants by modifying it according to what he seeks to finally achieve very different results and for a very reasonable price.
Very true. I love to modify things, dont get me wrong, but I am not the target for this car. At this price (with new electrics), its not bad...minus the motor power and those driveshafts.
yup, the earlier ones especially, as quick as the wheels start hammering you're stripping plastic axle bevel gears or snapping plastic drive shafts, if its got the #316 gearbox and 180 motor. the newer kits are much better with brass axle gears and tan gearbox.
right when i'm like "jeez i wish i could get a credible recommendation for a transmitter that can program in a few cars" ....... you do it. yay!!
Haha! Anytime!
same 3ch can be flashed to run 4WS too, click the 3rd channel button to select the 4 modes: front, rear, front+rear, or crab :)
I have the same transmitter, I've seen people bashing on them saying that they aren't very good i beg to differ. I love mine. I've even had some people say that it looks super fancy and high tech, but it's super affordable. I highly recommend them.
Awesome video bro, thank you and GOD bless.
Thank you!
I got the rtr a couple of months ago and the steering didn’t make the awful noise and the drive shafts never broke but my motor got something in and blew so I ordered a 5 dollar motor that has more tourqe
Good call. I have seen those and it is a great upgrade.
AMPRO Engineering it’s only the 180 sized brushed motor but it was the the cheapest
Thanks for the great insight and suggestions. I bought the C14-MK kit which on the surface is a great kit. Tons of metal upgraded parts from the differential gears, axels, drive shafts and so on. the kit also comes with a spare bigger motor and trans than the non KM kit as well as other extra parts. Unfortunately, the fit and finish is un-acceptable. The two speed transmission while it does somewhat work do not expect too much from from it. The kit was also missing pieces, like one of the two frame rails and a bag of screws. Did you have any issues with the two speed trans? I do really like the hard body Hi-lux body and would love to install it on a higher quality RC truck kit, any suggestions?
thanks again for the great content.
Wow, weird. No i have never had any issue with the 2 speed and I think I have 6 of them. Early WPL kits were a mess. The newer ones are unreal. They have done a great job with their QC.
Alberto good to see I'm not only one to fill the stock roll bar light bar. the legs of 5 mm LED's are BARELY long enough to reach across the top, have to "float" about 1 mm gap for the bottom/shorter legs. headphone wire is really convenient small to send power.
edit: OH... a couple 220 ohm resistors, drill rear for 3 mm LED's and connect to the motor leads, you have reverse lights for pennies too. use about any little 2 pin connector so you can take the body off for working on the beast.
Very nice. I could not resist the LED's lol! I have a JST connector so the shell can come off and not deal with the wires so that is a plus. I have some lenses coming soon too!
@@AMPROEngineering what size resistors did you use for the 5 mm lights?
The newer RTR versions come with proportional steering and throttle.
No kidding! Thanks for the info! Same price point?
@@AMPROEngineering yup
@@AMPROEngineering WPL has done a good job of listening to their customers and improving their products. The C34KM is their newest model and it is leaps better that the initial models.
NICE!!
@@nathanwatts2082 If the new kits come with soft tires it may be worth buying now. Do you know?
Very cool “STOCK” review of the WLP.
Thanks! Usually I do a lot of work to them but for most, they dont need much.
Awesome truck
Thanks!
I bought the red wpl c14 rtr version and i understand that is shit but it was $40 plus i have a hobbygrade rc crawler that needs a new front end and i can't fly to the usa just to get the parts so i plan on putting the esc the 380 brushed motor the shocks transmitter and servo onto the c14 if they fit and then later on i will buy the kit c24 and make that into a epic rock crawler i just got the rtr cause it was cheap and i just wanted a cheapy to build a boat trailer for my brushed rc boat the udi009 rapid goes pretty good btw. I know this video is old but do you still have these?.
They have a new one that has awesome electrics and a better drive shaft. I am enamored with these things.
Check the Dumbo brand and the radio link brand and you can get them from banggood.
Cool! Thanks! I have been looking for that!
Hope so.
I have the same truck and its gor wheels and tires and portal axles. Everything else is stock and its AWESOME!!!!!!
I saw those axles! They look killer! I may need to get some.
Nice video. Do you know where I can get a set of the kit/soft tires? I see them on ebay and aliexpress but I want to be sure that Im getting the SOFT compound.
Also if you do the mod to the gt3b firmware, its a bit of a learning curve for all the added things. Watch youtube videos to get an idea what its like.
Theres also a manual you can print off into booklet form to carry with you. The mod can also be done to the GT3C.
eBay is also the place that I get the tires. I just trust that the auction is actually the soft ones. I heard about the firmware update I’m going to have to try that even though that’s something I usually don’t like
Ive had no luck with the stock transmission. I’ve broken gears inside every one I’ve tried to use.
Really....that is very bad. Stock motor? I havent had issues but on my most driven ones have the 2 speed.
yup, the older #316 black gearbox is TOO wimpy, but in my C-24 I grafted two of them together (both gear covers still removable) for a 130 motor powering each axle. it worked out surprisingly well.
if you try it you'll see how they can nest together "69" configuration.
Good to know. I'll keep that in mind when I get mine in the mail.
I definitly need to try out flysky brand. My conversion sets ups i run all spektrum and spketrum receivers very pricy over many rc's and builds lol great infamational video great channel..
ps looking forward to hearing back on that chassis set up I mentioned in last video 8-)
check out the radiolink rc4g, same price as fly sky and a lot more features....
I have not looked at Radio Link...
@@AMPROEngineering Flysky receivers are about half to a third the price though, 5 vs 10-15 ($ USD)for the radiolink. Both good companies imo
Just re-watched. I think you nailed it 🙂
Ha ha, and I know the feeling of trying to film with the kid near 🤣😂
Yeah it makes it more interesting. Hahah!
Great video and very informative. You might like to check the MN-99s. It's an absurdly good 1/12 rtr Land Rover for 50 dollars! Fully compatible with wpl parts, soft tires, good slow speed control...
Ill take a look!
Cool video . sweet crawler
Thanks Joseph!
@@AMPROEngineering i like thr detail
The new RTR is pretty decent for $60. No Axial SCX24, but not bad
Agreed!
btw, there's a firmware hack available for the gt3b/gt3c radio. gets you more model memory, etc. etc yeah yeah another rabbit hole...
I have seen that but I am not good at that kinna stuff! Have you tried?
@@AMPROEngineering yip, i've done it. there was a walkthrough on the tube that i followed. the gt3c is good as is, but 8 channel capability sounded good at the time (never needed more than three really). and i guess i'm just a 'fix it till its broke' kinda guy.
@@AMPROEngineering I did it to one of mine about 7 years ago. Definitely worth it for the added adjustments. Model memory I could care less about. Cant really remember all the details now.
The modification to the transmitter was very easy for the "programming" lead.
As for the firmware upload, it took me a few tries to get everything working.
Cool, I will look into it again! Thanks!
It's really easy to hack takes about 10 min
Rear axle on my ready to run Toyota already tapped out..any advice for parts or upgrades?
They make metal upgrades from the WPL website. Almost all of mine are the metal versions. wpl-rc.com
So kool.where can I find the front bumper on the blue one?
All in the WPL section in my store. They only come in ultra detailed polyjet prints. This means they are not for bashing. www.shapeways.com/shops/ampro?section=WPL+Cars&s=0
I raised two girls quiet is not part of their vocabulary:-) now I have a cat starts going off when I tape a video :-) ordered my first one actually two going to do a build with my grandson. Got panda Hobby for him yesterday but they’ve switched to junk electronics. So it’s going back and the 6 x 6 was canceled. This will be better for him to learn assembly and repair.
That's too bad. I like the panda cars but the WPL cars are still so simple and robust. I love all of mine.
@@AMPROEngineering I have four grandsons. We were looking forward to collecting them all. Hopefully they will bring back the good radios. And the banner he’s driving me crazy about the banner :-)
Did you need to sand and prime it before painting? I want to paint mine but just hoping it doesn’t flake away after. Thanks!
Yes, you need to do that unless you run a lacquer paint.
@@AMPROEngineering automotive paint should be fine I guess?
Hey where would I find the truck kit you suggested?
There is a link in the description to get this right from WPL. The one you see here was the "plastic kit" version but it needs electronics. They have an RTR and an all metal kit version too.
Is the front and wear windows removable for easier painting or do u just mask it off? I really like what u did with the blue one and was thinking of something similar, i just ordered a blue one and now playing the waiting game.
Oh yeah I painted it before I assembled the window but they come out easy after you pull the body.
how reliable is it all upgraded
Its really good. I run mine a lot and have never had a problem but I do not abuse them.
Why are these so fun?!!! 😂
I don't know but I love them.
nice build
Thanks!
Hi wondering if I could ask a favour. Thinking of buying one to use as a donar chassis for my Fall Guy Clodbuster shell so could you possibly let me know the wheelbase or better still if ypu have a Clod shell offer one up to it. Love your vids and would be very happy if could find out the wheebase of the standard one
Oh man, may I make a suggestion? Take a look at episode 197. That chassis is way better for your application. It will need to be stretched a bit it is WAY better to start with than the WPL. I was actually planning on that too!
Hello ... my name is izaias I am from Brazil and I am thinking of purchasing a model like this. but I worry about his weight and because he’s very fast. Question. How to put a speed controller? the penalty? I'm starting and at the price I found it affordable. thank you
Hello there, thanks for reaching out. This car is very light and not very fast but that is the purpose of it. It is not designed to be fast. For speed control installation, I did a video covering this. Simply search AMPRO WPL Here on TH-cam and you will see it. It is a tan military vehicle. The penalty of installing the speed control means you must replace all of the electronics
What I really want is not speed, but relative strength. I only care about the control being too sensitive when pulling the trigger. so do you think it is worth purchasing this model?
Thanks, I want to buy that truck and change the Radio,Receiver & ESC 🚐
Good idea! I cover that in an earlier video using the 6wd WPL.
AMPRO Engineering Okay,Thanks 🙏🏼
When you get the kit version, do u have to solder the wires for the motor and ESC?
yes but its not that hard to do
Is there a difference in the WPL C24 and C24-1?
Correct, you do.
Yes, the -1 has proportional ESC and steering. its the way to go.
I see you have a roll bar on yours. I’ve been looking everywhere for a normal offroad rollbar for it, but they’re all either really long or a full cage. Do you know where I can find a normal rollbar or a website where i can 3d print it?
Not to my knowledge. This one came with it but I have been planning on making one for the C24.
Ok....maybe someone here can help me since I've posted this other places and nobody seems to know. I have the c24 r2r. I was unaware of the upgrades on the kit but it's too late now. I have already upgraded the tires and wheels and have metal axels, drive lines, suspension and most other metal parts still to put on. Here is my issue. I see all these trucks with a metal bumper. I bought a metal bumper and when I went to take off the original bumper the grill and lights come off with it. It's all one piece. So do they really expect you to take a dremel to it and cut the old one in half? Seems stupid to me and I am unable to find just the grill for the c24. Seems the c14 has square lights and the 24 has round. Am I missing something here? Has anyone installed a metal bumper on the C24 and if so how did you do it? As far as electronics go what do I need for the steering, servo, esc, and a controller? Thanks in advance
Oh yeah I know what's wrong. So the C14 isn't just the different head lights, the bottom of the front end isnt there. It is cut off higher than the C24 is to accommodate the grille. Look close at the one in the video and you will see what i mean. I didnt realized it until I tried swapping the front ends and discovered that my stock C24 bumper had nowhere to attach! Either trim the front or get a C14 front end.
What is the link for the battery you use?
I use these now on my WPL cars: www.wpl-rc.com/collections/electronics/products/2s-7-4v-10c-li-ion-battery-for-d12?ref=AMPRO
@@AMPROEngineering thx
@@AMPROEngineering Is it a direct plug in connection(no sawdering required) or?
Cool videos and cool Trucks! But, please take not these crappy esc!! TB-60025 is the one i use with stock gearbox,, motor and servo. It makes a beast of a crawler, you tab the throttle slightly and it crawles almost over everything.
Edit: these esc are a quite cheap and very nice. with a 370 motor (single or 2speed) it makes a really good and cheap crawler, and when you spend only between 20$ and 25$ per month for upgrades you have a real heavy duty crawler in 3 to 4 months.
Oh yes I use these a lot now. These little ones are so hit or miss. I would say 1 in 4 are trash. I do have to say that when you get a working one, they are pretty good but its not worth the effort.
@@AMPROEngineering
Then I have a good one😁
But to see how the esc work that you use, I have ordered two. If they are so good as they are cheap than they are really the best for a cheap and good crawler build.
Thanks for your answer on these old video, I like your content very much and you got now a new subscriber🤗
@@AlphamenschRC Oh not a problem! U always reply to new comments (replys to my replies are a bit hard to so usually i just cant). These are awesome cars and anything to make them better is always good!
The driveshafts SHOULD be the weak point. Now your gearbox is the failure point. I would be happy to make a 5 minute driveshaft replacement on the trail. I would NOT however want to tear a trans apart on the trail for a stripped plastic gear. Same with my 1:1 Jeep, a U joint or driveshaft is a quick and cheap trail repair, a busted axle shaft is $$$ and a shot transfer case is $$$ and the end of your day. You always intentionally leave the cheapest, most simplistic failure point(s) in a driveline.
I have never had a trans problem on these. Driveshafts on the other hand, they have failed on flat ground in a few minutes of driving.
Hey. Can I pm you. I have some doubts and I have to send you some prints.
Oh I dont print anything. I only use shapeways but you can message me on IG